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THE  LIBRARIES 


Bequest  of 

Frederic  Bancroft 
1860  -  1945 


GENERAL  LIBRARY 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


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MINIATURE  PAIxXTED  FROM   PHOTOGRAPH 

MADE  IN  MILAN  IN  1870 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS 
ABROAD 


LETTERS  OF 

MRS.  FRANK  H.  ROSENGARTEN 

(nee  MARY  D.  Richardson) 

WRITTEN  IN 

1869,  1870,  1892,  1897,  1900,  1903,  1906,  I9IO 


WITH  MANY  ILLUSTRATIONS  FROM  PHOTOGRAPHS 


'^<^^3*^-: 


PHILADELPHIA 

PRINTED 

FOR  PRIVATE  CIRCULATION 

BY   J.    B 

.    LIPPINCOTT   COMPANY 

1917 

/ 


COPYRIGin,    191  7,    BV    FRANK    H.    ROSENGARIEN 


J-  2  ?^  /  ^' 


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DEDICATION 

AS     A     MEMORIAL     OF     HER     WONDERFUL    TALENTS     AND 
UNCEASING    INDUSTRY,    THESE    LETTERS    ARE    PUB- 
LISHED   AND     DEDICATED    TO    THE    SONS,     RELATIVES 
-)  AND   SUCH    FRIENDS    AS    REMEMBER  THE   WRITER   IN    LIFE 


PREFACE 

The  writer  of  the  accompanying  letters,  Mary  D.  Rosen- 
garten,  was  born  in  1846  at  Pittsburgh,  Pennsylvania,  daughter 
of  James  and  Laura  Chfford  Richardson.  In  1857,  Mr.  and 
Mrs,  Richardson  removed  to  St.  Louis,  Missouri,  and  it  was  in 
that  city  their  daughter  received  her  early  education,  grad- 
uating from  the  high  school  at  the  head  of  her  class,  in  1862. 

After  her  graduation  in  St.  Louis  she  entered  the  home 
of  President  Sanborn  of  Dartmouth  College  at  Hanover, 
New  Hampshire,  and  under  his  supervision  studied  English 
literature. 

Later,  in  1863,  she  entered  a  school  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  on 
Brooklyn  Heights,  and  applied  herself  to  the  study  of  vocal  and 
instrumental  music. 

The  following  years  she  studied  vocal  and  instrumental 
music  and  became  a  most  accomplished  singer,  having  a  mezzo- 
soprano  voice. 

Her  intense  desire  for  culture  induced  unceasing  efforts  in 
all  branches.  Her  study  of  music,  and  French,  Italian  and, 
English  literature  never  wavered,  even  during  her  long  years 
of  married  life  and  motherhood.  Her  appreciation  of  the 
artistic  and  beautiful  was  a  strongly  marked  characteristic. 
Her  kindness  of  heart,  generous  disposition  and  quiet  charity 
made  her  beloved  by  the  many  who  knew  her. 

In  the  winter  of  1863,  instead  of  journeying  to  her  home  in 
St.  Louis,  she  spent  the  Christmas  holidays  at  the  home  of 
the  father  of  her  future  husband  at  1532  Chestnut  Street, 
Philadelphia. 

Her  visit  there  began  a  friendship  that  never  wavered  and 
resulted  in  her  subsequent  engagement  and  marriage  in  1873, 
ten  years  after  her  first  visit  to  Philadelphia,  followed  by  over 
forty  years  of  intensest  mutual  love.  From  1864  to  1869,  she 
lived  at  her  father's  home,  2827  Locust  Street,  St.  Louis,  from 

5 


PRKI'ACE 

lime  to  time  making  journeys  in  the  United  States,  until  in 
1869  she  was  enabled  to  fullill  her  ideals  for  European  travel 
and  musical  culture. 

She  left  New  York  on  the  30th  of  October,  1869,  accom- 
panied by  her  father,  journeyed  to  Italy  and  settled  in  Milan 
to  study  singing  under  the  celebrated  Maestro  Lamperti. 

At  first  she  studied  singing  under  the  A^Iaestro  Corsi,  taking 
three  lessons  a  week,  but  wrote  home  objecting,  "He  will  not 
let  me  practice  more  than  two  hours  a  day!" 

Later  she  concluded  her  studies  under  Lamperti,  among 
whose  pupils  was  the  great  tenor  Campanini,  who  created  in 
his  later  career  the  intensest  enthusiasm  and  with  Christine 
Nilsson  constituted  probably  the  greatest  vocal  duo  ever 
known. 

Her  letters  written  during  this  period  of  late  1869  and  1870 
were  treasured  by  her  parents  and  were  carefully  preserved;  it 
has  been  a  labor  of  love  to  reproduce  them  literally,  for  they 
so  fully  demonstrate  the  deep  appreciation  she  felt  for  the 
wonders  of  Europe,  although  written  in  hurried  moments. 

These  pilgrimages  included  travels  in  Italy,  Switzerland, 
France,  Belgium,  England,  Scotland,  Norway,  Sweden,  Fin- 
land, Russia,  Poland,  Austria,  the  Tyrol,  Spain,  Algiers, 
Turkey,  the  Balkans,  the  Holy  Land  and  Egypt.  The  places 
and  things  described  by  her  will  certainly  interest  persons 
familiar  with  them.  Persons  intending  to  travel  can  read  her 
descriptions  with  assurance  of  their  accuracy. 

She  was  married  on  the  5th  of  March,  1873,  at  the  home 
of  her  parents,  2827  Locust  Street,  St.  Louis,  and,  after  a  short 
wedding  journey  by  way  of  Louisville,  Cincinnati,  Harper's 
Ferry  and  Washington,  arrived  at  Philadelphia,  her  home  from 
that  time  onward. 

At  first  residence  was  made  at  1532  Chestnut  Street.  After 
a  few  months,  256  South  15th  Street  was  purchased  and  then 
furnished  and  adapted  to  suit  her  taste  for  artistic  surround- 
ings. This  home  was  occupied  for  twenty-one  happy  years 
and  here  were  born  her  two  sons,  J.  CliflFord  and  Samuel  Rich- 
ardson Rosengarten. 


PREFACE 

In  1894  the  family  home  was  changed  to  1905  Walnut 
Street,  and  occupied  by  her  for  the  nineteen  remaining  years 
of  her  life. 

During  all  her  forty  years  of  married  life  in  Philadelphia 
she  was  enthusiastically  busied  with  musical  activities.  She 
constantly  attended  the  Grand  Operas  and  delighted  in  lis- 
tening to  the  greatest  singers  of  the  world.  She  joined  the 
Beethoven  and  St.  Cecilia  Choruses,  was  a  director  of  the 
Philadelphia  Orchestra  from  its  inception  until  her  death, 
was  one  of  the  founders  of  the  Eurydice  Chorus  and  was 
president  of  that  society  at  the  time  of  the  celebration  of  its 
25th  anniversary. 

She  induced  the  conductor.  Professor  Parker,  of  Yale  Uni- 
versity (composer  of  the  Opera  of  Mona  and  other  celebrated 
compositions)  to  make  the  concert  given  in  honor  of  the  cele- 
bration a  unique  musical  event.  The  concert  was  devoted  to 
the  memory  of  Michael  Cross,  first  leader  of  the  Eurydice  and 
conductor  of  the  Orpheus  Club,  and  in  the  programme  were 
several  songs  that  had  been  taught  the  chorus  many  years 
before  by  Mr.  Cross.  Compositions  written  by  Professor 
Horatio  Parker,  by  his  assistant  at  Yale  University,  Professor 
Smith,  by  Mr.  Chadwick  of  Boston,  who  has  written  music  of 
the  very  highest  worth,  a  song  by  Gilchrist  of  Philadelphia  and 
one  by  Frank  Damrosch,  at  one  time  conductor  of  the  Euryd- 
ice and  now  the  head  of  the  great  conservatory  of  music  in 
New  York,  were  rendered. 

The  crowning  feature  of  this  concert  was  the  fact  that  each 
of  these  eminent  composers  conducted  in  person  the  composi- 
tion allotted  to  him. 

After  the  concert  these  men  and  many  of  the  chorus  were 
entertained  at  Mrs.  Rosengarten's  home,  and  speeches  were 
made  congratulating  the  society  on  such  a  wonderful  event 
and  praising  the  genius  and  musical  talent  of  the  president  of 
the  society. 

Mrs.  Rosengarten  was  insatiable  for  travel  and  study  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world.     She  visited  Europe  in  1 869-1 870,  in 

7 


PREFACE 

1872,  in  1892  and  1897,  in  1900,  1903,  1906  and  1910.  Twice 
she  was  in  California  and  many  times  in  Canada.  She  visited 
the  Centennial  Exposition  of  1876,  the  Exposition  at  Paris  in 
IQOO,  the  St.  Louis  Fair,  the  Pan-American  Exposition  in 
Buflfalo  and  went  twice  to  the  World's  Fair  in  Chicago. 

While  her  summer  home  and  garden  in  Jamestown,  Rhode 
Island,  were  quite  satisfying  to  her  esthetic  and  artistic  ideals 
she  always  declared  it  to  be  a  waste  ot  valuable  time  to  reside 
there  when  there  was  so  much  of  intcnscst  interest  to  her  in 
many  parts  of  the  world  she  had  not  seen. 

She  deeply  regretted  her  inability  to  visit  her  niece,  the 
wife  of  a  high  military  officer  attached  to  the  staff  of  the  Vice- 
roy in  India,  and  another  niece,  married  to  an  American  of- 
ficer attached  to  the  United  States  Embassy  at  Peking,  China. 

She  died  on  the  29th  of  October,  191 3,  at  Coronado,  Cali- 
fornia, after  long  months  of  illness.  She  passed  away  peace- 
fully, surrounded  by  her  family  and  loyal  home  servants, 
beloved  and  admired  by  all  who  knew  her. 

F.  H.  R. 


CONTENTS 

PAGE 

The  Journeys  of  1869-1870 17 

The  Journeys  of  1892 177 

The  Journeys  of  1897 245 

The  Journeys  of   1900 353 

The  Journeys  of  1903 419 

The  Journeys  of  1906 5^7 

The  Journeys  of  1910 599 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Miniature  painted  from  photograph  made  in  Milan  in  1870  Frontispiece 

Sketch  Outline  of  the  Eight  Journeys  Abroad 16 

The  Forum,  Rome 41 

Interior  of  the  Coliseum,  Rome 42 

Pope  Pius  IX  in  the  Garden  of  the  Vatican 44 

"The  Noon  Hour,"  Florence.    A  Contrast 48 

Ponte  Vecchio,  Florence 49 

The  Campanile  and  the  Palace  of  the  Doges,  Venice 52 

Princess  Marguerite 78 

The  Lake  of  Geneva 92 

The  Park  at  St.  Cloud,  Paris 96 

The  Louvre,  Paris 97 

The  Park  at  Versailles,  Near  Paris 98 

The  British  Museum,  London 105 

Holyrood  Castle,  Edinburgh 117 

The  Caledonian  Canal,  the  Water  Journey  Across  Scotland 125 

The  Gota  Canal,  Sweden 129 

On  Lake  Geneva 161 

Chamounix,  Foot  of  Mt.  Blanc 164 

Martigny 168 

Lugano,  Switzerland 170 

The  Royal  Palace,  Brussels 173 

The  Marble  Arch,  Hyde  Park,  London 188 

Windsor  Castle 192 

Henley  Regatta 194 

Mont  Orgueil,  Castle  Gorey,  Jersey 196 

Seigneurie  Lane,  Guernsey 197 

Corbiere  Lighthouse,  Jersey 198 

Creux  Harbor,  Sark 199 

Mont  Saint  Michel 204 

L'Escalier  de  Dentelles,  Mont  St.  Michel 205 

Trou ville 207 

The  Inn  of  Guillaume  le  Conquerant,  Dives 209 

Chateau  de  Chenonceaux 210 

Chateau  d'Amboise 211 

Marquis  de  Rochambeau 216 

Chateau  de  Rochambeau,  Vendome 217 

The  Chamber  and  Deathbed  of  Count  Rochambeau 219 

Hombourg 221 

St.  Moritz 226 

The  House  of  Richard  Wagner,  Bayreuth 227 

Hotel  Tyrol,  Innsbruck 228 

To  Chur,  Julier  Pass 23 1 

Versailles 240 

II 


ILLUSTRiVriOXS 

Aboard  S.  S.  St.  Paul,  June,  1897. .  .  .- 254 

Southampton 258 

Daisch's  Hotel,  Shanklin,  Isle  of  Wight 260 

Bonchurch,  Isle  of  W  ight 261 

The  Crab  and  Lobster,  Ventnor 262 

Lunch  at  Carisbrooke  Castle  at  "Eight  Bells  Inn" 263 

Salisbury  Cathedral 264 

Exeter  Cathedral 266 

Interior  of  Exeter  Cathedral 266 

Penzance 267 

Land's  End,  Cornwall 269 

Logan  Rock,  Cornwall 270 

King  Arthur's  Seat,  Tintagel,  Cornwall 273 

The  Walk  from  Lynmouth  to  Lynton 274 

Going  Through  Lorna  Doone  Valley 275 

Door  of  Cathedral  at  Bath 276 

Wells  Cathedral 277 

At  Clovelly,  Cornwall 278 

New  Inn,  Clovelly 278 

Hall  at  Oxford 280 

Trafalgar  Square  and  the  Hotel  Metropole,  London 281 

The  Eton-Harrow  Cricket  Match 282 

Blenheim 283 

"Thames  Day"  in  the  Lock 284 

"Surley  Hall" 285 

Henley  Regatta 288 

On  the  Omnibus,  London 290 

Henley  Regatta 291 

Crossing  from  Folkestone  to  Boulogne 293 

Fontainebleau:   The  Chateau,  the  Town  and  the  Forest 295 

Hotel  Victoria,  Hombourg 297 

Theatre  Marigny,  Paris 299 

Fontainebleau 300 

Door  at  Fontainebleau 300 

Barbizon 301 

Fresenius  Laboratory,  Wiesbaden 302 

Curious  Alotto  in  Fresenius  Home 303 

"The  Schloss,"  Hombourg 306 

On  the  Danube  at  Sigmaringen 312 

Schloss  Sigmaringen 313 

Bicycle  Party  at  Triberg 317 

Armor  in  Vault  at  Schloss  Sigmaringen 318 

Count  Salis,  "Pater  Nicolas,"  Head  of  the  Monastery,  Benedictine 

Order,  at  Beuron 319 

Hall,  Schloss  Hornstein,  Grueningen 320 

The  Family  Adelmann  and  Airs.  F.  H.  Rosengarten 321 

The  Excursion  to  Niebelungen  Land  in  Royal  Equipages 324 

Count  Adelmann  and  Wife  and  M.  D.  R 325 

Hohenzollern  Hechingen 325 

Salon,  Schloss  Hohenzollern,  Sigmaringen 326 

12 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

"Hof  Kammer,"  Sigmaringen 326 

Entrance  to  Schloss  Hohenzollern,  Hechingen 327 

The  Lunch  at  Schloss  Hohenzollern,  Hechingen 327 

Hotel  Bayerischer  Hof,  Munich 329 

The  Opera  House,  Munich 329 

Schloss  Hohenstadt 332 

Augsburg  Cathedral 333 

Royal  Carriages  of  Prince  Leopold  of  Hohenzollern 333 

Prince  Leopold  of  Hohenzollern 334 

Staircase,  Schloss  Hohenstadt 335 

A  Part  of  the  Garden  of  Schloss  Hohenstadt 335 

Church  of  Hohenstadt 336 

Countess  Adelmann's  Boudoir,  Schloss  Hohenstadt 337 

Banquet  Hall,  Schloss  Hohenstadt 338 

The  Chemical  Laboratory,  University  of  Tubingen 342 

The  Roman  Arch,  Rheims 346 

Court  of  Castle  Pierrefonds,  Near  Compiegne 347 

Compiegne,  from  the  Palace 347 

Laon 348 

Salon,  Chateau  de  Compiegne 349 

The  Cathedral,  Rheims 349 

Aboard  the  "Touraine"  at  Havre,  September  24,  1897 350 

The  "Touraine" 351 

Grand  Hotel,  Lyndhurst,  New  Forest 360 

Beaulieu  Abbey 361 

Where  William  Rufus  fell,  New  Forest 361 

General  Horace  Porter 364 

Replica  at  Washington,  D.  C,  of  the  Monument  of  Rochambeau  at 

Vendome 365 

Chantilly 367 

Exposition,  Paris,  1900 368 

Rue  des  Nations,  Paris  Exposition,  1900 370 

Grand  Hotel,  Lake  Lugano 373 

Koenigstein 375 

Palace  Hotel,  St.  Moritz 377 

Tegern  See,  Tyrol 381 

Austrian  "Jager"  Regiment  in  the  Fern  Pass 382 

Castle  Ambass,  Innsbruck 382 

The  Fern  Pass,  Tyrol 384 

Banquet  Table,  Silver  Wedding,  Hohenstadt 384 

Hotel,  Tegern  See,  Tyrol 385 

The  Bridal  Couple  in  the  Garden,  Hohenstadt 387 

Schloss  Hohenschwangau 390 

Neuschwanstein 391 

Gorgeous  Room  in  Neuschwanstein 392 

Village  Folk  Parading  for  the  Silver  Wedding 396 

Gate  of  Castle  Hohenstadt 397 

The  Procession  to  the  Church 397 

Coming  Out  of  Church  after  the  Ceremony 397 

The  Return  to  the  Castle 397 

13 


TT,LrS11^.Vll()\S 

Schloss  and  Church,  Hohenstadt 398 

The  Wedding  Couple,  Friends,  and  Relatives  in  the  Garden 399 

"Hoch!".... 400 

Musicians  of  Joseph  Anselm  at  the  Wedding  Banquet,  Hohenstadt  .  .  401 

Adclmannsfeldcn  Castle  at  Elhvangen 408 

"Baur  au  Lac,"  Zurich 41 1 

The  Top  of  Pilatus 412 

Porta  Nigra,  Trier 415 

S.  S.  Auguste  Victoria 428 

Funchal  from  the  Terrace 430 

Funchal,  Madeira 43 1 

"Coasting"  at  Funchal 432 

Mother's  Carriage,  Madeira 433 

Tangiers 436 

Tangiers  from  the  Citadel 437 

Watching  a  Snake  Charmer,  Tangiers 437 

Gibraltar 439 

In  Tangiers 440 

The  Alhambra 441 

Landing  at  Algiers 443 

Algiers 444 

Blidah 445 

Blidah 447 

Genoa 449 

The  W' ater  Front,  Nice 450 

The  Carnival,  Nice 452 

Villefranche 452 

Entrance  to  the  Amphitheatre,  Syracuse 455 

Ear  of  Dionysius,  Syracuse 456 

Malta  from  the  Sea 458 

Malta 459 

Tyryns,  Greece 461 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter,  Athens 462 

The  Temple  of  Theseus,  Athens 463 

Yildiz  Kiosk,  the  Arrival  of  the  Sultan 468 

The  Train  to  Damascus 473 

Beyrout,  the  Port  of  Damascus 474 

The  Temple  of  the  Sun,  Baalbec 475 

A  Gate  in  Damascus 478 

On  the  Way  to  Jerusalem 481 

View  of  Joppa 482 

The  Gate,  Joppa 483 

A  Street  in  Jerusalem 484 

The  Gardens  of  Shepheard's  Hotel,  Cairo 487 

Cairo 488 

The  Trip  to  the  Pyramids 489 

The  Sphinx 490 

Karnak 492 

The  Avenue  of  Sphinxes 493 

The  Ride  to  the  Tombs  of  the  Kings,  from  Luxor 494 

14 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

Isola  e  Capo  S.  Leo,  Taormina 497 

In  the  Convent  Hotel,  Taormina,  Sicily 498 

The  Greek  Theatre,  Taormina 498 

The  Harbor  at  Fayal 518 

Mountains  Back  of  Fayal 519 

Grotto  of  Posilipo,  Naples 528 

Sorrento 529 

Hotel  des  Capuchines,  Amalfi 531 

Ravello 532 

At  Psestum 534 

Hotel  Timeo,  Taormina 535 

Solfatara,  near  Naples 536 

From  the  Greek  Theatre,  Taormina 537 

The  Cathedral,  Syracuse 540 

The  Cathedral  of  Palermo 542 

Capri 544 

At  Capri  ■■•••.• 545 

"  Campo  di  Fiori,"  Rome 548 

Fountain  of  Trevi,  Rome 549 

The  Appian  Way,  Rome 551 

Viterbo 556 

City  Gate,  Orvieto 558 

The  Cathedral  at  Orvieto 559 

Spoleto 562 

Spoleto 562 

Spello 563 

Foligno 564 

Roman  Temple,  Perugia 565 

Collegio  del  Cambio,  Perugia 570 

Monte  Oliveto,  Siena 572 

Siena 574 

San  Gimignano 576 

The  Roman  Theatre  at  Fiesole,  near  Florence 579 

Door  of  St.  Mark's,  Venice 581 

The  Bronze  Horses,  St.  Mark's 582 

House  of  Peers,  Munich 586 

Burg  Adelmannsfelden,  Elwangen,  Wurtemberg 587 

Castle  Hohenzollern,  Sigmaringen 588 

River  Alongside  Hotel  Bauer  au  Lac,  Zurich 589 

Avenue  du  Bois  de  Boulogne,  Paris 594 

Dover  Castle 597 

A  Bit  of  Canterbury 597 

Canterbury  Cathedral 598 

Portrait  of  Mary  D.  Rosengarten,  from  the  oil  painting  by  Alice  Kent 

Stoddard 601 

Aboard  the  Cedric 607 

Ponta  Del  Gada 609 

Glorious  Madeira 611 

Madeira 612 

Solfatara 616 

15 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

The  Amphitheatre,  Pozzuoli 617 

A  Bit  in  Ravello 619 

Amalfi 620 

Perugia  and  Hotel  Brufani 625 

The  Convent  of  St.  Francis,  Assisi 626 

Madonna  Delia  Sedia,  Raphael 628 

The  Gallery  of  the  Ufhzi,  Florence 629 

Interior  of  Santa  Croce,  Florence 629 

Garden  of  the  Hotel  Byron,  Ravenna 630 

The  Tomb  of  Dante, Ravenna 63 1 

Chapel  and  Altar  of  St.  Anthony,  Padua 633 

The  Fountain  and  Pigeons,  St.  Mark's  Square,  Venice 634 

Abbazia,  Dalmatia 636 

Trau 637 

Fiume 638 

Zara,  Capital  of  Dalmatia 639 

The  Water  Front,  Sebenico,  Dalmatia 640 

One  of  the  Five  Cascades  of  the  Krka  River,  near  Sebenico 641 

.  At  Clissa 642 

The  Dalmatian  Coast 644 

View  of  Ragusa  from  Lacroma 645 

Cettinge,  Capital  of  Montenegro 647 

Mostar 648 

Between  Mostar  and  Jayce,  Herzegovina 649 

Sarajevo,  Capital  of  Bosnia 652 

Jayce 653 

Royal  Palace,  Budapest 655 

Hotel  de  Crillon,  Paris 661 

Hotel  de  Crillon,  Place  de  la  Concorde,  Paris 662 

Hotel  de  Crillon,  Paris 663 

The  Garden,  Hotel  de  Crillon,  Paris 663 

Count  de  Rcchambeau 666 

Countess  de  Rochambeau 667 

Her  Son  Clifford,  Uniform  of  1st  City  Troop  in  Campaign  of  1898.  .  .    673 

And  in  the  U.  S.  Army  in  1917 673 

256  South  15th  Street,  the  Home  1873  to  1894 674 

1532  Chestnut  Street,  Her  Home  in  1873 674 

Rittenhouse  Square  and  1905  Walnut  Street,  Home  1894  to  1912  ....   675 

Castanian,  Home  in  Germantown 676 

Jamestown  Home  in  1885 676 

Jamestown  Home  as  She  Changed  it,  1912 677 

Garden  at  Jamestown,  1912 677 

Grape  and  Plum  Arbor  in  1912 678 

The  Home  in  Newport,  R.  I.,  1888 678 

Interior  of  Jamestown  Home  in  1912 679 

The  Last  Day  in  the  Garden,  Jamestown,  1912 679 

The  Villa  at  Ccronado,  California,  1913 680 

In  the  Garden  at  Coronado,  California,  1913 680 

The  Coronado  Villa 680 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1869-70 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1869  AND  1870 

Ambition  for  culture  and  travel  finally  brought  permis- 
sion to  satisfy  these  long-looked-for  undertakings,  for  Mrs. 
Rosengarten,  at  that  time  Mary  D.  Richardson,  sailed  on  the 
30th  of  October,  1869,  with  her  Father,  James  Richardson,  of 
St.  Louis,  and  arrived  safely  in  Paris,  and  thence  followed  her 
experiences  in  France,  Italy,  Switzerland,  England,  Scotland, 
Norway,  Sweden,  Finland,  Russia,  Austria  and  the  Tyrol  and 
a  return  to  Italy.  After  the  long  months  of  study  under 
Maestro  Lamperti  in  Milan  began  the  journeys  through  Ger- 
many, Belgium  to  England. 

It  is  apparent  from  the  letters  that  every  moment  was 
utilized  in  the  acquisition  of  useful  and  intellectual  experi- 
ences, the  study  of  historic,  artistic  and  social  conditions, 
and  the  noting  of  surroundings  in  a  manner  remarkable  for  a 
person  so  young. 

The  energy  shown  in  the  ascents  of  Vesuvius  and  of  the 
Grand  Mulcts  was  exceptional,  and  the  memories  of  these 
accomplishments  were  always  sources  of  deepest  pleasure  to 
her  during  the  forty-four  subsequent  years  of  her  life. 

Notwithstanding  the  exciting  conditions  caused  by  the 
War  of  1870,  the  journeys  were  but  little  inconvenienced. 

On  the  9th  of  December,  1870,  the  return  to  America  was 
made  on  the  Steamship  Russia. 

F.  H.  R. 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  1869-70 

S.  S.  PEREIRE^ERQJvl  NEW  YORK,  30TH  OCTOBER,  1869 


New  York .Oct. 

Paris .Nov. 

Nice \f .  .Dec. 

Lyons )v^Dec. 

Height        of       Fourriere," 

Lyons Dec. 

Marseilles Dec. 

Avignon Dec. 

Corniche  Road Dec. 

Monaco Dec. 

Mentone Dec. 

Leghorn Dec. 

Naples Dec. 

Savona Dec. 

San  Remo Dec. 

Oneglia Dec. 

Genoa Dec. 

Pisa Dec. 

Vesuvius Dec. 

Herculaneum Dec. 

Rome Jan. 

Posilipo Jan. 

Pozzuoli Jan. 

Baiae Jan. 

Solfatera Jan. 

Cave     of     the     Cumaean 

Sybil Jan. 

House  of  Diomedes Jan. 

Sorrento Jan. 

St.  Peter's,  Rome Jan. 

Christmas  Services  at  St. 

Peter's Jan. 

Rome Jan. 

Hotel  dellaCitta,  Florence.  Jan. 

Pitti  Palace Jan. 

Florence Jan. 

Uffizi  Palace Jan. 

Dante's  House Jan. 

Palazzo  Vecchio Jan. 

Church  of  Santa  Croce. .  .Jan. 
Church  of  San  Lorenzo.  .Jan. 

Duomo,  Florence Jan. 

Venice Jan, 

Square  of  St.  Mark's Jan. 

St.  Mark's,  Venice Jan. 

Doges'  Palace Jan. 

Bridge  of  Sighs Jan. 

Pigeons Jan. 

Rialto,  Venice Jan. 

Othello's  House,  Venice   .Jan. 
Paul     Veronese      Picture 

and  House,  Venice.  . .  .Jan. 
Titian's  House,  Venice. .  .Jan. 
Milan Jan. 


29, 

1869 

2q 

19, 

1869 

2^ 

8, 

1869 

27 

8, 

1869, 

27 

8, 

1869 

27 

8, 

1869 

28 

8, 

1869 

28 

8, 

1869 

28 

9, 

1869 

29 

9, 

1869 

30 

9, 

1869 

30 

18, 

1869 

31 

18, 

1869 

32 

18, 

1869 

32 

18, 

1869 

32 

18, 

1869 

32 

18, 

1869 

33 

18, 

1869 

34 

18, 

1869 

34 

2, 

1870 

3S 

2, 

1870 

.3'; 

2, 

1870 

3'; 

2, 

1870 

^^ 

2, 

1870 

35 

2, 

1870 

3^; 

2, 

1870 

37 

2, 

1870 

38 

2, 

1870 

38 

2, 

1870 

38 

3, 

1870 

40 

7, 

1870 

46 

7. 

1870 

46 

10, 

1870 

47 

10, 

1870 

47 

10, 

1870 

47 

10, 

1870 

47 

ID, 

1870 

47 

10, 

1870 

48 

10, 

1870 

49 

12, 

1870 

^0 

13, 

1870 

so 

n, 

1870 

so 

1.3. 

1870 

SI 

n. 

1870 

SI 

13, 

1870 

S3 

1,3. 

1870 

S3 

13. 

1870 

54 

13, 

1870 

S4 

13, 

1870 

S4 

18, 

1870 

55 

Cathedral,  Milan Jan. 

Santa  Maria  della  Grazie.Jan. 

Aleals  in  Milan Jan. 

Masked  Bail  in  La  Scala.Jan. 

Climate  in  Milan Jan. 

Mr.     Clarke,     Consul, 

Milan Jan. 

French  and  Italian  Les- 
sons  Jan. 

Luca  Fumigalli Jan. 

Maestro     Corsi,     Singing 

Master Jan. 

Lamperti,  Singing  Master  Jan. 

Sforza  Palace,  Milan Feb. 

Court  Ball,  Masked,  at  La 

Scala Mar 

Carnival  at  Milan Mar, 

King  Victor  Emmanuel..  .Mar 
King    Victor's    Birthday, 

and  Te  Deum M 

Public  Gardens,  Milan.  .  .Mar 

Galleria  in  Milan Alar 

Food  in  Milan Mar 

Service  in  the  Grand  Hos- 
pital  Mar 

Flowers Mar 

Opera  of  II  Guarany Apr: 

Tame  Hen Apr 

Lamperti  Music Apr; 

Easter  in  the  Cathedral  of 

Milan Apr; 

Princess  Marguerite Apri 

Lake  Como Apr 

Camerlata Apr 

Cadenabbia Apri 

Villa  of  Princess  Carlotta  Apr: 

Bellaggio Apr 

Villa  Serbelloni Apr: 

Monza May 

Strawberries May 

Chailly,  Lausanne June 

Turin June 

Church  of  La  Superga..  .  .June 

Royal  Chapel,  Turin June 

Prince  Amadeo June 

Chinamen  at  Turin June 

St.  Michele June 

Lord  and  Lady  Armstrong.  June 
Tower    of    "Bertha     the 

Spinner" June 

St.  Cecilia  Society,  Church 
of  St.  Frangois  Lau- 
sanne  June 

Paris June 


18,  1870  55 

18,  1870  55 

18,  1870  56 

18,  1870  56 

30,  1870  57 

30, 1870  57 

30,  1870  57 

30,  1870  57 

30,  1870  57 

30,  1870  57 

9,  1870  60 

9,  1870  65 

9,  1870  66 

9,  1870  67 

15,  1870  68 

17,  1870  69 

17, 1870  69 

17,  1870  70 


27,  1870 

27,  1870 

4,  1870 

4,  1870 

10,  1870 

24,  1870 

24,  1870 

24,  1870 

24,  1870 

24,  1870 

24, 1870 

24, 1890 

24,  1870 

15, 1870 

15,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 

7,  1870 


71 
71 
73 
75 

75 

77 
78 
78 
79 
79 
79 
80 
80 
82 

83 
86 
86 
86 
87 


90 
91 


7,  1870  91 


12,  1870  92 
27, 1870  94 


INDEX 


Grand  Hotel,  Paris June 

Hotel  des  Invalides June 

Church  of  St.  Roch June 

St.  Cloud June 

Tlie  Louvre,  Paris June 

Fontainebleau June 

Souvenirs  of  French  Kings  June 

Empress  Eugenie June 

Malmaison June 

Church  of  Rueil June 

St.  Germain-des-Pres.  .  .  .June 

P^re  La  Chaise June 

Tomb     of     Abelard     and 

Hcloise June 

Lancham  Hotel,  London.  July 

WAR  DECLARED July 

Westminster  Abbey July 

Chaucer's  Tomb July 

Chapel  of  Henry  7th July 

Tomb  of  Mary,  Queen  of 

Scots July 

Coronation  Chair July 

London  Tower July 

National  Picture  Gallery. July 
Anne  Boleyn,  Lady  Jane 

Grey July 

British  Museum July 

Crystal  Palace July 

Concert,  Christine  Nllsson, 
Faure,  Sineco  and  Tre- 

belli  Bellini July 

Dr.  Spurgeon July 

St.  Paul's  Service July 

Leamington July 

Warwick  Castle July 

Kenilworth July 

Last  of  the  Barons July 

Guy's  Cliff July 

Amy  Robsart July 

Stoneleigh  Abbey July 

Stratford  on  Avon July 

Charlecote July 

Shakespeare's  Tomb July 

Red  Horse  Inn July 

Matlock  Bath Aug. 

Derwent  Water Aug. 

Home  of  Florence  Night- 
ingale  Aug. 

Peacock  Inn Aug. 

Haddon  Hall Aug. 

Chatsworth Aug. 

Gardens  at  Chatsworth.  .Aug. 

Manchester Aug. 

Lake  Windemere Aug. 

Keswick Aug. 

Grasmere Aug. 

Thirlemere Aug. 

Rydal  Water Aug. 

Ambleside Aug. 

Greta  Hall Aug. 

Southey Aug. 

Edinburgh Aug. 

Dr.  Stuart Aug. 


1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 


18, 

1870  i< 

18, 

1870  I 

18 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

21 

1870  I 

24 

1870  I 

24 

1870  I 

24 

1870  I 

24 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

-. 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

2 

1870  I 

3 

1S70  I 

3 

1870  I 

94 
95 
95 
96 

97 
98 
98 
99 
99 
99 
99 
99 

99 

lOI 
lOI 
lOI 
102 
102 

102 
102 
103 
103 

104 
104 
104 


St.  Giles  .'\ug.     3 

juiin  Kno.x Aug.     3 

Edinburgh Aug.     3 

Carlton  Hill Aug.     3 

Edinburgh  Castle Aug.     3 

Ilolyrood  Castle Aug.     3 

Lcith Aug.     3 

Queen  Mary's  Bath  House.  Aug.     3 

Ilolyrood  Abbey Aug.     3 

Tolbooth Aug.     3 

Joiin  Knox Aug.     3 

llcart  of  Midlothian Aug.     3 

Crown    of    Scotland    and 

Regalia Aug.     3 

Roslin  Castle  and  Chapel  Aug.  3 
House    of    Earl    of    Buc- 

cleugh Aug.     3 

Legend  of  the  Chapel  at 

Roslin Aug.     3 

Greyfriars  Churchyard. .  .Aug.     3 

Cowgate Aug.     3 

Grass  Market Aug.     3 

Queen  Mary's  Prayer.  .  .  .Aug.  3 
Grave  of  the  Covenanters.  Aug.  4 
Mrs.  Peter  Leslie's  Tomb. Aug.     4 

Stirling  Castle Aug.     4 

Inscription  on  Tomb  at 

Stirling Aug.     4 

Inscription    on    House  of 

Earl  of  Mar Aug.     4 

Perth Aug.     4 

Banavie Aug.     7 

Aberdeen Aug.     7 

Keith Aug.     7 

Inverness Aug.     7 

Battle  Field  of  Colloden.  .Aug.     7 

Caledonian  Canal Aug.     7 

Loch  Ness,  Loch  Oich. .  .  .Aug.     7 

Loch  Lochy Aug.     7 

Ben  Nevis Aug.     7 

Braes  of  Lochaber Aug. 

Inverlochy  Castle Aug. 

Oban Aug. 

Fingal's  Cave Aug. 

Pier  of  Granton Aug.  22 

Across  German  Ocean..  .  .Aug.  22 
Christiansand,  Norway..  .Aug.  22 

Gothaburg Aug.  22 

Gotha  Kallare,  Gothaburg.Aug.  22 

Concert  at  Park Aug.  22 

Museum  of  Art Aug.  22 

Visit  to  the  Whale Aug.  22 

Trollhatten  Falls Aug.  22 

Meals  in  Sweden Aug.  22 

Trip  by  Canal,  Sweden..  .Aug.  22 

Stockholm Aug.  22 

Royal  Rooms .Aug.  22 

Stockholm  like  Paris Aug.  22 

Djurgatan,  Finest  Park  in 

Europe Aug.  22 

Hotel   in   Place  Gustavus 

Adolphus Aug.  22 

Public  Gardens,  Music 

and  Fireworks Aug.  22 


,  1870 

116 

.  1870 

116 

,  1870 

116 

.  1870 

116 

,  1870 

116 

,  1870 

116 

,  1870 

117 

,  1870 

118 

,  1870 

118 

,  1870 

118 

,  1870 

118 

,  1870 

119 

,  1870 

liq 

,  1870 

119 

,  1870 

119 

,  1870 

120 

,  1870 

120 

,  1870 

120 

,  1870 

120 

,  1870 

120 

,  1870 

121 

,  1870 

122 

[,  1870 

122 

,  1870 

122 

,  1870 

121 

,  1870 

123 

,  1870 

123 

,  1870 

124 

',  1870 

124 

,  1870 

124 

',  1870 

124 

',  1870 

124 

,  1870 

124 

,  1870 

124 

,  1870 

121; 

,  1870 

126 

,  1870 

126 

,  1870 

126 

,  1870 

126 

,  1870 

127 

,  1870 

127 

,  1870 

127 

,  IS70 

127 

,  1870 

128 

,  1870 

128 

,  1870 

128 

,  1870 

128 

,  1870 

129 

„  1870 

129 

,  1870 

130 

,  1870 

130 

,  1870 

130 

,  1870 

131 

,  1870 

131 

,,  1870 

131 

.,  1870 

131 

INDEX 


Royal  Palace,  Stockholm  Aug.  22, 
President   Lincoln's    Gift 

of  Colt's  Revolvers. .  .  .Aug.  22, 
In     Museum,     Boots     of 

Charles  1 2th Aug.  22, 

Mr.    Andrews,    American 

Minister Aug.  22 

The  King Aug.  22 

Salmon,  Regular  Food.  ..  Aug.  22 
DelightsofTravelby  Canal  Aug.  22 

Finland Aug.  26 

Aland  Islands Aug.  26 

Large  City Aug.  26 

Cathedral Aug.  26 

Helsingfors Aug.  27 

Beginning  to  Hear  Russian 

Language Aug.  27 

Russian    Church Aug.  27 

Lutheran  Church Aug.  27 

Strawberries,      All      Year 

Treat Aug.  27 

Wiborg Aug.  28 

First  Ride  in  Drostky . . .  .Aug.  28 
Men  Repos,  Residence  of 

Governor  of  Finland. .  .Aug.  28 

Russian  Sailors Aug.  28 

Sunday  Night  Ball Aug.  28 

Soup  Made  of  Fruits.  . .  .Aug.  28, 

St.  Petersburg Aug.  29 

Cronstadt Aug.  2g 

Church  of  St.  Isaac Aug.  29 

Marvellous  Things  in  St. 

Isaac Aug.  29 

Wonderful  View  from  the 

Dome Aug.  29 

Cathedral  of  Our  Lady  of 

Kajan Aug.  29 

Common  People  and  Their 

Dress Aug.  29 

Hotel     d'Angleterre,     St. 

Petersburg Sept. 

Hermitage,  St.  Petersburg  Sept. 
National      Museum,      St. 

Petersburg Sept. 

Trip  to  the  Island  in  the 

Neva Sept. 

Boat   and  Chair  of  Peter 

the  Great Sept. 

Flower  from  Votive  Offer- 
ing  on  Tomb    of   Czar 

Nicholas Sept. 

Peterhoff Sept. 

Pleasure   Houses     in     the 

Grounds Sept. 

Mon  Plaisir Sept. 

Fountains  Rivalling  Those 

at  Versailles Sept. 

The    Great    Theatre    and 

Russian  Ballet Sept. 

Grand  Duke  Nicolai.    .  .  .Sept. 
Services    at    Convent     of 

Alexander  of  Neoshoi .  .Sept. 
Fine  Singing  of  Monks . . .  Sept. 


1870 

1870 

1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 

1870 

1870 

1870 

1870 

1870 
1870 

1870 

1870 

1870 


1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 

1870 

1870 
1870 

1870 
1870 


31 

31 

31 

32 
32 

32 
32 
32 
33 
33 
33 
33 

33 
34 
34 

34 
34 
34 

35 
35 
35 
36 
36 
36 
36 

37 

37 

38 

38 

38 
38 

39 

39 

39 


39 
40 

40 

40 

40 

41 
41 

41 
41 
23 


Furs Sept. 

Moscow Sept. 

School  of  Mines Sept. 

State  Carriages Sept. 

Fatiguing  Journey  from 
St.  Petersburg Sept. 

Railroad  Station  and  Tea. Sept. 

Fleas Sept. 

Moscow Sept. 

Kremlin  and  its  Wonders. Sept. 

Tower  of  Ivan  the  TerribleSept. 

Holy  Gate Sept. 

Great  Bell  of  Moscow. . .  .Sept. 

Wonderful  Bells Sept. 

House  of  the  Holy  Synod. Sept. 

Holy  Oil  vase  of  Mary 
Magdalen Sept. 

Czar  drilling  Cavalry.  .  .  .Sept. 

Appearance  of  Russian 
people Sept. 

Church  of  the  Assump- 
tion and  of  St.  Basil  the 
Beatified Sept. 

Sparrow  Hills Sept. 

Songs  of  Peasants Sept. 

Nijni-Novgorod Sept. 

Bought  Russian  Sables. .  .Sept. 

St.  Petersburg Sept. 

Winter  Palace Sept. 

Crown  Jewels  of  Russia.  .Sept. 

Czar's  Children's  Play 
House Sept. 

Miseries  of  Drostky  RidingSept. 

Warsaw Sept.  il 

54-hour  Ride  to  Vienna .  .  .  Sept.  1 1 

St.      Stephen's      Church, 

Vienna Sept.  1 1 

Gay  Life  of  Vienna Sept.  11 

Prosperous     People    of 

Vienna Sept.  15 

Schonbrunn Sept.  15 

Opera  House Sept.  1 5 

Glorietta   Temple Sept.  15 

Church  of  the  Capucines, 

Tombs  of  Royal  FamiliesSept.  15 

Sarcophagus      of      Maria 

Theresa Sept.  15 

Church  of  the  Augustines. Sept.  1 5 

Canova's  Tomb  of  Chris- 
tine  Sept.  15 

Treasury  and  Museum..  .Sept.  15 

Crown  Jewels  of  Austria, 

Bohemia  and  Hungary.  Sept.  15 

Imperial  Library Sept.  15 

Torquato  Tasso's  Jeru- 
salem Delivered Sept.  15 

Royal  Riding  School Sept.  15 

Picture  Gallery,  Belvedere. Sept.  15 

Strauss    Band    at    Folks- 

garten Sept.  15 

Salzburg Sept.  15 

Mozart's  Home Sept.  15 

Geneva Sept.  19 


1870 
[870 
[870 
1870 

[870 
[870 
1870 
[870 
1870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
1870 
1870 

[870 
[870 

[870 


1870 
1870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 

[870 
[870 
[870 
1870 

1870 
[870 

[870 
[870 
[870 
[870 

1870 

[870 
[870 

[870 
1870 

[870 
[870 

[870 
[870 
1870 

[870 
1870 
1870 
1870 


[41 
[42 
[42 
[42 

[42 
[42 
[43 
[43 
[43 
'43 
[43 
t43 
[44 

'44 

'44 
'44 

'45 


'45 
[46 
[46 
[46 
[46 
147 
'47 
'47 

'47 
[48 
149 
'49 

'49 
'49 

[50 
150 
150 
ISO 

'50 

150 
[50 

'5° 
151 

[51 

151 
'SI 
151 

[52 

[52 
152 

152 


INDEX 


Munich Sept.  19 

Picture  Galleries Sept.  19 

Great  Statue  ot  Bavaria.  .Sept.  19 

Pinacotheic Sept.  19 

Royal  Palace Sept.  19 

Music  at  the  Cathedral..  .Sept.  19 

Bronze  Factories Sept.  19 

Trophies  at  the  Arsenal.  .Sept.  19 
Zurich  via  Romanshorn.  .Sept.  19 

Zug Sept.  19 

Arth Sept.  19 

Ascent  of  the  Rhighi Sept.  19 

Description  of  the  Rhighi. Sept.  19 

Kiissnacht Sept.  19 

Immcnsec Sept.  19 

Tell's  Chapel Sept.  19 

Sunset    in    Descent    from 

Rhighi Sept.  19 

Naples Sept.  25 

Lake  Lucerne Sept.  25 

Hotel  Schweizer  Hof Sept.  25 

Lucerne Sept.  25 

Brunig  Pass Sept.  25 

Alpine  Songs  and  Alpine 

Horn Sept.  25 

Lungern Sept.  25 

Brienz Sept.  25 

Scenery  in  Switzerland. .  .Sept.  25 

Falls  of  Giesbach Sept.  25 

Interiaken Sept.  25 

Jungfrau  at  Sunset Sept.  25 

Griindelwald  Glacier Sept.  25 

Alpine  Horn Sept.  25 

Thun  and  Lake  Thun. . .  .Sept.  25 

Naples Sept.  25 

Pompeii      and      Hercula- 

neum Sept.  25 

Baise Sept.  25 

Cumse  and  Lake  Avernus.Sept.  25 
Cape   Micenae  and  Dead 

Sea Sept.  25 

Grotto    of   the    Cumaean 

Sibyl Sept.  25 

Hot  Baths  of  Nero Sept.  25 

Beauty    of    the    Bay    of 

Naples Sept.  25 

Florence Sept.  28 

Entry    of    Victor    Eman- 
uel in  Rome Sept.  28 

The  Pope Sept.  28 

Breach  in  Rom.an  Walls  by 

Italians Sept.  28 

Italian  Military  Music.  .  .Sept.  28 
Organ  at  Fribourg,  Switz- 
erland   Sept.  28 

Ouchy Sept.  28 

Lakes  of  Europe Sept.  28 

Geneva Sept.  28 

Chamounix. ...  Sept.  28 

Funny  Diligence Sept.  28 

Sunset  on  Mt.  Blanc Sept.  28 


870 
87c 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 

870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 

870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 

870 
870 
870 

870 

870 
870 

870 
870 

870 
870 

870 
870 

870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 
870 


52 

52 
52 

52 

S3 
53 
S3 
53 
S3 
53 
53 
54 
54 
54 
54 
54 

54 

55 
55 
55 
55 
55 

55 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
S6 
57 
57 
57 
58 

58 
58 
58 

58 

58 
58 

58 
59 

59 
59 

59 
59 

60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
61 


Venice Oct.  30, 

Verona Oct.  30, 

Town  Hall  and  Palace  of 

Scaligers Oct.  30, 

Roman  Amphitheatre.  .  .  .Oct.  30, 

Tomb  of  Romeo  and  Juliet. Oct.  30, 

Snow  Storm  in  the  'lyrol.Oct.  30, 

Innsbruck Oct.  30, 

Hotel  de  la   Poste,    Kuf- 

stein Oct.  30, 

Brenner  Pass Oct.  30, 

Chamounix,  Mer  de  Glace. Oct.  30, 

Mauvais  Pas Oct.  30, 

Grand  Mulcts  Ascent    ...Oct.  30, 

Chalet  on  Way Oct.  30, 

Avalanches  and  Crevasses. Oct.  30, 

Wall  of  Ice Oct.  30, 

Tied  Together  with  Ropes.Oct.  30, 
Comical  Costume  for  the 

Climb Oct.  30, 

Terrible  Dangers  and  Fa- 
tigue  Oct.  30, 

Over  the  Tete  Noire Oct.  30, 

Wonderful  Views  from  the 

Tete  Noire Oct.  30, 

Martigny Oct.  30, 

The  E.xcursion  of  School 

Boys Oct.  30, 

Diligence  to  Brigue Oct.  30, 

Simplon  Pass Oct.  30, 

Arona Oct.  30, 

Hospice  of  St.  Bernard..  .Oct.  30, 

St.  Bernard  Dogs Oct.  30, 

Domo  d'Ossola Oct.  30, 

Lake  Maggiore Oct.  30, 

Isola  Bella Oct.  30, 

Gardens    of    Duke    Bor- 

romeo Oct.  30, 

Luino Oct.  30, 

Lugano Oct.  30, 

Lake  Como Oct.  30, 

Menaggio Oct.  30, 

Camerlata Oct.  30, 

Milan Oct.  30, 

Brussels Dec.  5, 

Antwerp Dec.  5, 

Cathedral  and  Paintings  .Dec.  5, 

Market  Writers Dec.  5, 

London Dec.  5, 

Messe  Solenelle  of  Rossini  Dec.  5, 
Titiens,  Sims  Reeves  and 

Alboni Dec.  5, 

Titiens    and    Alboni    Sing 

"QuiToUis" Dec.  5, 

Liverpool Dec.  9, 

Paris  Newspaper  Sent  out 

of  Siege  on  Balloon ....  Dec.  9, 
Little  Inconvenience  from 

Franco-Prussian  War  .  .Dec.  9, 

On  Board   Ship Dec.  10, 


1870  1 

62 

1870  1 

62 

1870  1 

62 

1870  1 

62 

1870  1 

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1870  1 

62 

1870  1 

62 

1870 

62 

1870 

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63 

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63 

1870 

63 

1870 

64 

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66 

1870 

67 

1870 

68 

1870 

68 

1870 

68 

1870 

69 

1870 

69 

1870 

69 

1870 

6g 

1870 

69 

1870 

[69 

187c 

69 

1870 

[70 

1870 

[70 

1870 

[70 

1870 

[70 

1870 

[71 

1870 

[71 

1870 

171 

1870 

[71 

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[72 

1870 

[72 

1870 

[72 

1870 

73 

1870 

'74 

1870 

'74 

1870 

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1870 

'74 

1870 

'74 

1870 

'75 

1870 

75 

1870 

75 

24 


EN  ROUTE 

New  York,  Friday,  Oct.  29th,  1869. 
Dear  Mother, 

This  is  the  last  opportunity  I  shall  have  to  write  before 
we  sail,  which  will  be  to-morrow  at  2  o'clock. 

We  sail  in  the  French  Steamer  Pereire,  and  father  heard 
to-day  that  one  of  the  German  Line  sails  at  the  same  time  and 
it  is  to  be  a  race  between  them,  the  Pereire  is  one  of  the 
fastest  steamers,  its  last  trip  was  the  fastest  on  record.  We 
have  got  a  heavy  lap  blanket  and  sea-chair  apiece,  and  are 
going  to  have  a  state  room  together  so  if  Father  is  sick  I  can 
take  care  of  him.  Our  address  will  be  in  Paris,  Care  Munroe 
&  Co.,  No.  7  Rue  Scribe.  Emma  Rosengarten  is  to  be  mar- 
ried the  last  of  next  month  and  Frank  is  not  coming  home. 
I  feel  rather  blue  when  I  think  how  far  we  are  going,  but  of 
course  I  shall  enjoy  it  immensely.  Do  all  of  you  write  me 
often.    With  much  love  to  all 

Your  aff.  daughter 

M.  D.  R. 


Paris,  Friday,  Nov.  19,  1869. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  don't  wonder  you  were  surprised  to  hear  from  me 
on  this  side  of  the  water.  The  truth  of  the  matter  is  I 
did  not  know  of  it  myself  until  about  four  weeks  before  we 
started.  In  October  Father  was  taken  sick.  He  came  straight 
through  to  New  York,  where  I  met  him  and  we  sailed  on  the 
Pereire  on  the  30th  of  October. 

25 


EIGHT  JOURNKYS  ABROAD 

Our  plan  is  to  spend  the  winter  in  Italy;  shall  probably 
remain  here  a  week  longer,  leaving  here  the  first  of  week 
after  next  for  Marseilles.  We  shall  go  to  Nice  and  other 
places  and  intend  to  be  in  Rome  during  the  Holidays.  Father 
expects  to  stay  longer  in  Naples  than  anywhere  else  on  account 
of  the  climate.  He  will  return  in  the  spring  and  I  expect  to 
remain  at  the  Musical  Conservatoire  at  Milan,  but  may  go 
to  some  other.  We  did  think  a  little  of  going  to  Stuttgart 
thinking  that  friends  will  be  there,  but  as  they  are  not  and 
we  would  have  to  go  just  that  much  out  of  our  way  and 
return  to  Paris  again,  it  would  be  foolish.  Besides  I  shall 
have  opportunities  to  travel  with  friends  next  summer 
through  Switzerland  and  Germany. 

I  am  going  to  do  my  best  to  get  Father  to  go  to  Athens.* 
Can't  you  meet  us  somewhere  and  go  with  us  and  perhaps  to 
Egypt?  Wouldn't  it  be  fun.^  Don't  you  think  you  will  be 
able  to  come  to  see  me  somewhere  before  you  return.  I 
can't  go  to  see  you  so  you  ought  to  come  to  me.  Of  course 
I  wouldn't  expect  you  to  come  specially  for  that  purpose, 
but  you  can  arrange  some  of  your  vacation  trip  so  we  can 
meet.  I  must  close  this  as  I  am  going  out.  Write  me  soon 
will  you  not.^  I  stand  very  much  in  need  of  letters,  have  not 
heard  a  word  from  home. 

Yours  truly, 

M.  D.  R. 


*  Not  till  1903  were  visits  to  Athens  and  Egypt  made. 


FRANCE 

Hotel  de  Paradls, 
Nice,  Dec.  8th,  1869. 
Dear  Jimmy  and  Lolly, 

I  shall  direct  this  letter  to  you,  because  I  got  such  a  nice 
letter  from  both  of  you  to-day. 

We  left  Paris  last  Thursday  morning.  We  arrived  at 
Lyons  at  1 1  o'clock  at  night,  and  put  up  at  the  Grand  Hotel. 
We  all  started  out  early  in  the  morning  to  see  the  town  of 
Lyons.  Went  first  to  an  old  church  founded  on  the  site  of  a 
palace  in  which  Caligula  was  born,  then  we  ascended  the  Height 
of  Fourriere  where  on  a  clear  day  you  can  see  Mont  Blanc  and 
the  Alps  a  hundred  miles  off. 

There  is  a  church  on  the  top,  containing  a  miraculous 
image  of  the  Virgin.  It  is  dressed  in  gold  cloth  and  big 
as  a  good-sized  doll  and  when  there  is  an  invalid  to  be  cured, 
it  comes  out  and  holds  a  doll  baby  in  long  clothes  over  their 
heads.  The  church  is  filled  with  crutches  of  the  people  who 
have  been  cured.  Then  we  went  to  see  a  church  with  a  won- 
derful clock  that  has  little  wooden  images  that  popped  out 
from  holes  and  staggered  around  and  went  back  again,  and 
a  cock  that  crowed  very  famtly,  and  one  of  them  was  gilded 
and  was  called  the  angel  Gabriel. 

The  most  interesting  of  all  the  places  are  the  manufac- 
tories of  silk  and  velvet.  They  all  are  small  affairs  each 
owned  by  separate  persons,  and  not  conducted  on  a  large  scale 
like  ours.     We  saw  elegant  silks  and  velvets  and  damasks  for 

27 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

furniture,  but  the  most  wonderful  arc  the  portraits  woven  in 
black  and  white  silk.  We  bought  one  of  Louis  Napoleon  to 
take  home. 

The  next  day  we  came  on  to  Marseilles,  where  we  had  our 
first  glimpse  of  the  Mediterranean.  The  scenery  was  magnifi- 
cent, and  on  the  way  we  saw  lots  of  old  Roman  ruins,  aque- 
ducts and  amphitheatres.  At  Avignon  we  saw  the  Palace  of 
the  Popes  who  used  to  live  there,  also  the  home  of  Petrarch  the 
poet.  His  "Laura"  is  buried  in  one  of  the  churches  there. 
Rienzi,  the  Roman  tribune,  was  also  once  confined  at  Avignon. 
On  the  way  they  showed  us  the  rock  from  which  Pontius  Pilate 
threw  himself  down. 

The  country  is  very  barren,  the  hills  are  principally  chalk, 
but  every  square  foot  of  ground  which  can  be  cultivated  is 
covered  with  grape  vines.  Between  Lyons  and  Marseilles  is 
the  great  wine  country,  where  the  finest  wines  in  France 
are  made,  and  we  began  to  find  olive  trees  also. 

Marseilles  is  a  beautiful  city,  with  the  Mediterranean  irx 
front  and  a  mass  of  mountains  directly  behind. 

I  was  taken  sick  the  next  morning  with  a  touch  of  the  ague 
and  didn't  go  out  at  all  with  Father  but  went  the  next  day 
riding.  From  one  of  the  hills  behind  the  city  there  is  one  of 
the  finest  views  I  ever  saw.  The  immense  chalky  hills  and  the 
valleys  filled  with  vines  and  olive  trees  taken  with  the  beautiful 
blue  of  the  Mediterranean,  combine  to  form  a  view  intensely 
picturesque. 

The  celebrated  Corniche  Road  commences  at  Marseilles. 
We  drove  along  it  for  a  mile  or  two  then  turned  into  the  Prado 
which  is  the  fashionable  drive.  It  is  full  of  fine  buildings, 
the  Imperial  Chateau,  Palais  de  Justice,  and  Palais  de  Long- 
champs.  In  front  of  the  latter  and  a  part  of  the  building  is  a 
magnificent  fountain,  the  handsomest  we  have  seen.  On  the 
Island  is  the  prison  where  Mirabeau  was  confined.  There  is 
also  a  Monument  to  Cataline  and  baths  named   after  him. 

We  were  two  days  in  Marseilles  and  then  came  on  here.    On 

the  way  we  saw  quantities  of  vineyards  and  olive  trees,  towards 

28 


FRANCE 

the  last  orange  trees,  and  here  and  there  roses,  red  and  pink 
and  all  kinds  of  flowers  in  full  bloom  in  the  open  air.  There 
is  a  magnificent  promenade  all  along  the  sea  planted  with 
orange,  palm  and  date  trees,  and  the  water  comes  rolling  in 
and  dashes  almost  over  it.  Along  this  are  fine  hotels  and  ele- 
gant villas. 

There  are  plenty  of  the  nobility  here  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  A  gentleman  told  father  he  saw  the  Duke  of  Newcastle 
gambling  in  the  Casino  yesterday.  They  have  music  on  the 
promenade  every  afternoon  and  all  the  people  in  town  walk 
there  at  that  time.  Tomorrow  we  go  out  to  see  the  kingdom 
of  Monaco,  the  smallest  in  the  world,  but  it  has  its  palace  and 
fortifications  and  theatres,  &c  and  all  the  things  pertaining  to  a 
large  one — and  on  Friday  we  leave  for  Genoa  by  the  Corniche 
Road  by  carriage,  it  will  take  two  days.  I  am  too  tired  to  write 
any  more  to-night.  If  you  only  knew  how  fatiguing  it  is  to  sit 
up  and  write  late  at  night  when  you  have  been  on  your  feet 
all  day  you  would  appreciate  these  letters.  I  will  finish  this 
to-morrow. 

Thursday  Night.     Dec.  9th,  1869. 

We  have  just  returned  from  Monaco,  having  spent  the 
day  there.  We  had  a  car  to  ourselves,  being  eight  in  number. 
It  took  us  an  hour  by  railroad  passing  through  the  most  beau- 
tiful scenery.  The  railroad  is  for  the  most  part  tunnelled 
through  the  high  rocky  cliffs  that  rise  abruptly  from  the  Med- 
iterranean, and  the  rest  runs  along  embankments  close  to 
the  sea. 

The  Kingdom  of  Monaco  is  built  on  a  very  high  prom- 
ontory of  solid  rock,  is  surrounded  by  high  walls  mounted 
with  cannon  and  contains  a  small  town  and  palace.  The 
reigning  family  dates  back  to  the  tenth  century,  and  the  pres- 
ent prince  has  just  married  the  Duke  of  Hamilton's  daughter, 
and  there  was  a  splendid  green  arch  to  their  honor  and  flags 
flying  in  every  direction.  We  went  first  to  the  part  that  is 
leased  to  an  English  Company  for  a  summer  resort.     There 

they  have  a  fine  garden-hotel  and  a  Casino  where  there  is  a 

29 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

fine  instrumental  concert,  free,  and  gambling  rooms.  We  saw 
men  and  women  gamble  at  roulette  and  rouge  et  noir.  I 
think  it  is  a  disgusting  sight. 

To-morrow  at  noon  we  take  the  cars  for  Mentone,  where 
we  take  a  carriage  and  drive  all  the  way  to  Genoa,  which  will 
take  until  Sunday  night,  from  there  we  shall  go  to  Leghorn  and 
run  out  to  Pisa  to  see  the  leaning  tower,  and  from  there  by 
sea  to  Naples.  This  morning  we  went  through  the  old  Italian 
part  of  this  town.  We  had  to  go  single  file  and  the  streets 
which  you  would  call  alleys  are  so  narrow  that  you  could 
shake  hands  across  from  one  house  to  another,  and  the  smells 
are  beyond  description,  what  with  filth  and  garlic. 

I  am  making  a  collection  of  stereoscopic  views  and  photo- 
graphs, and  making  a  flower  album.  I  wish  I  could  buy  some 
of  the  elegant  bronzes  and  inlaid  wood  tables  I  find  everywhere. 
Perhaps  I  shall  get  a  book  rack.  I  cannot  possibly  write 
letters  and  keep  a  diary  too,  and  I  want  to  have  my  letters 
for  a  diary  on  my  return.  Jimmy  and  Lolly  will  be  interested 
to  know  that  I  sat  beside  a  real  Russian  princess  at  dinner 
yesterday! 

Women  go  round  the  streets  driving  donkeys  about  as 
big  as  Jack.  Men  drive  three  horses  abreast  and  all  the 
horses  have  great  peaks  on  the  harness  between  their  ears. 
The  men  do  the  chamber  w^ork  and  the  women  act  as  clerks. 
We  see  women  carrying  fresh  sardines  in  baskets  and  crying 
"Bella  sardina"  and  saw  loads  of  orange  trees  loaded  down 
with  ripe  oranges.  It  is  just  as  warm  here  as  late  in  April 
with  us,  and  they  don't  have  colder  weather.  Will  write 
from  Genoa  if  possible.     With  much  love  to  all. 

Your  aff.  sister,  M.  D.  R. 

Father  is  looking  better  than  I  ever  saw  him,  and  in  ex- 
cellent spirits. 


ITALY 


Naples,  Dec.   i8th,   1869. 

Hotel  du  Louvre. 
Dear  Cliff, 

I  have  been  trying  to  summon  up  courage  for  three  nights 
to  write  to  some  of  you,  but  if  you  could  only  know  how  tired 
we  come  home  every  night  you  would  not  wonder. 

I  believe  that  very  last  letter  finished  with  our  stay  at  Nice. 
We  left  there  the  next  morning  in  the  cars  for  Mentone,  where 
we  spent  the  night, — it  is  becoming  a  rival  of  Nice  as  a  resort 
for  invalids,  has  a  lovely  promenade  on  the  sea,  and  protected 
on  the  north  by  a  high  wall  of  mountains.  In  the  evening  we 
took  a  walk,  climbed  up  very  narrow  streets  and  long  flights 
of  steps,  old  Roman  Masonry,  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  where 
they  have  converted  an  old  Roman  fortress  into  a  cemetery. 

It  was  most  weird  and  romantic — after  poking  round 
through  the  olive  groves  on  top  of  the  hill  in  the  half  moon- 
light we  came  down  into  a  Plaza  with  two  large  churches  facing 
each  other,  and  the  stone  pavement,  and  one  gas  lamp  light- 
ing the  whole,  once  in  awhile  a  figure  creeping  out  of  the  shad- 
ows just  like  a  scene  in  an  opera,  which  has  always  seemed  so 
unnatural.  When  we  were  coming  down  through  one  of  the 
narrow  streets,  where  you  could  shake  hands  across,  in  turn- 
ing a  sharp  corner,  two  old  women  poked  their  heads  out  of 
the  doors  so  suddenly  that,  with  the  deathly  silence  all  round, 
we  were  quite  startled.    I  can't  imagine  anything  more  "poker- 

31 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

ish,"  as  Mrs.  Place  would  say,  than  the  funny  narrow  streets 
in  these  places! 

The  next  morning  we  took  a  carriage  in  which  we  rode 
all  the  way  to  Savona  within  a  few  miles  of  Genoa,  taking 
two  days.  It  was  a  most  delightful  drive  along  a  perfectly 
built  road  skirting  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  in  some 
places  reaching  an  elevation  of  two  thousand  feet,  and  through 
grove  after  grove  of  olive  and  orange  trees,  and  along  beaches, 
where  a  fine  surf  comes  rolling  in. 

The  first  day  we  took  dinner  at  San  Remo,  an  interesting 
old  town  built  on  arches,  and  stopped  over  at  Oneglia.  All 
along  the  road  we  saw  the  old  ruins  of  Roman  fortresses  and 
the  chain  of  towers  built  on  all  the  high  points,  visible  from 
each  other  so  that  they  could  signal  from  one  to  the  other.  It 
was  a  rare  sight  to  see  the  Mediterranean  rolling  in  at  our  feet, 
and  feel  the  warm  air  around  us  and  at  the  same  time  to  see  the 
Maritime  Alps,  their  tops  one  mass  of  glittering  snow,  coming 
down  almost  into  the  sea. 

We  arrived  in  Genoa  "the  Superb"  Saturday  night  at 
nine  o'clock  and  went  right  to  bed.  The  next  day  we 
started  out  early  in  the  morning  and  went  first  to  the 
cathedral  built  of  black  and  white  marble,  in  which  there  is 
a  chapel  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  where  his  bones  are  kept 
locked  up  and  ladies  are  not  allowed  to  enter,  by  order  of 
the  Pope.  We  also  saw  another  church  which  was  modelled 
after  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and  contained  four  magnificent 
statues  and  one  of  them  a  celebrated  St.  Sebastian.  We 
went  next  to  the  Palazzo  Doria,  which  was  the  residence  of 
Andreas  Doria  called  the  father  of  his  country,  and  once  Doge 
of  Genoa.  It  has  a  fine  garden,  and  contains  many  interest- 
ing things,  such  as  the  chair  in  which  he  used  to  ride  around 
the  city,  and  opposite  to  the  windows  of  the  chamber  in  which 
he  died  is  the  monument  he  erected  to  his  dog. 

At  the  Palazzo  Brignoli  we  saw  a  magnificent  collection  of 
paintings,  among  them  the  celebrated  "St.  Sebastian"  by  Guido 
Reni,  and  Madonna  by  the  same  and  the  "Tribute  Money"  by 

32 


ITALY 

Vandyke,  also  portraits  of  three  members  who  have  been 
Doges  of  the  Republic.  The  two  sisters  of  the  last  one  are 
living  one  at  Milan  and  the  other  at  Paris.  From  there  we 
went  to  see  one  of  the  finest  villas  in  the  suburbs.  The  house 
was  on  a  level  with  the  street  and  the  garden  built  up  in  ter- 
races behind  it,  so  high  that  one  could  see  all  over  Genoa  from 
the  top.     There  were  most  beautiful  fountains  and  grottos. 

In  the  evening  at  nine  o'clock  we  were  taken  with  our 
trunks  in  a  sort  of  dory  out  to  the  steamer  for  Leghorn  and 
Naples.  All  that  night  Emma  and  I  were  terribly  sick  and 
thought  we  should  die  before  morning,  and  quite  made  up 
our  minds  we  would  not  go  to  Egypt. 

We  were  in  Leghorn  early  in  the  morning  and  after  break- 
fast went  to  shore  in  a  little  boat.  As  soon  as  we  had  put  our 
feet  on  shore  we  were  surrounded  by  at  least  thirty  ragamuffins 
each  one  of  whom  wanted  us  to  hire  his  horse  and  carriage. 

They  didn't  pay  any  attention  to  Father,  but  devoted 
themselves  to  Emma  and  me  because  we  understand  them  and 
Father  would  insist  upon  screaming  English  at  the  top  of  his 
voice  and  gesticulating  with  his  cane.  After  we  had  ridden 
round  the  city  and  visited  several  churches  and  the  water- 
works, we  took  the  cars  to  Pisa,  where  we  visited  the  Grand 
Cathedral  and  the  Leaning  Tower.  The  tower  consists  of 
eight  stories  supported  by  Corinthian  columns  of  white  marble, 
some  of  them  quite  new  and  others  looking  very  dilapidated. 
When  the  bells  ring  they  shake  the  whole  tower.  We  heard 
them  just  after  we  had  come  down,  and  they  were  very  musical. 

The  greater  portion  of  the  town  has  lately  been  inundated 
by  the  Arno,  and  as  we  walked  through  the  town  we  saw 
them  scraping  out  the  settlings  of  mud  and  filth  from  the 
stores  and  churches.  After  that  we  went  back  and  had 
our  dinner  in  a  restaurant  at  Leghorn  and  went  back  to  the 
steamer.  And  all  that  night  we  suffered  horrors  untold  with 
seasickness,  while  father  was  not  sick  at  all,  but  he  came  very 
near  it.  During  one  hour  it  was  so  rough  that  he  couldn't  put 
into  practice  his  method  of  accommodating  himself  to  the  mo- 

3  33 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

tlon  of  the  boat,  for  when  he  thought  the  boat  had  gone  down 
far  enough  it  did  not  come  up  again  but  went  down  further  still. 

We  arrived  at  Naples  early  Thursday  morning,  and  have 
had  the  most  delightful  weather  imaginable.  I  have  a  room 
in  the  front  of  the  house  facing  the  promenade,  which  runs 
along  the  seashore,  and  is  planted  with  beautiful  trees,  palms 
and  orange  trees,  and  a  place  for  people  to  ride  on  horse- 
back. Every  afternoon  thousands  of  people  walk  here  and 
ride  up  and  down  on  horseback  and  in  carriages,  dressed  in 
the  most  elegant  velvet  costumes,  pink  and  blue  silks.  From 
our  window  we  have  the  whole  view  of  the  bay  of  Naples  with 
Vesuvius  and  Herculaneum  on  the  left,  the  Island  of  Capri 
directly  in  front  and  Baiae  and  Ischia  on  the  right  and  at  sun- 
set nothing  could  be  more  beautiful  than  the  effect  of  the 
scenery  and  the  promenade  and  all  the  elegant  turnouts 
and  gaily  dressed  people  and  the  music. 

It  is  so  warm  we  can  open  our  windows  before  we  are 
done  dressing  and  keep  them  open  all  day  until  the  sun  goes 
down.  We  have  given  one  day  to  shopping,  i.  e.  looking  at 
coral  and  gloves.  You  can  get  those  sets  of  coral  flowers 
very  cheap,  comparatively,  but  they  are  so  frail  that  they  are 
not  worth  buying,  and  are  old  style  besides.  The  new  style 
is  heads,  but  not  like  mother's,  that  is  they  are  not  set  in 
gold,  but  are  modelled  after  the  antique  and  have  two  and 
three  heads  in  a  row  with  pendants.  They  are  more  expen- 
sive because  they  require  larger  pieces  of  coral.  I  think  I 
would  rather  have  a  set  of  coral,  necklace  and  bracelets,  than 
to  have  any  other  kind  of  jewelry  for  of  course  I  can  afford 
to  have  but  one  set,  and  I  would  rather  have  that  one  hand- 
some than  to  have  more  and  poorer  quality. 

I  am  on  the  dead  run  every  minute  to  see  one  thousandth 
part  of  what  there  is  to  be  seen.  I  shall  buy  some  small 
scarfs  in  Rome  for  us  all.  I  think  we  shall  not  attempt  to 
buy  any  pictures.  I  have  to  sit  up  late  at  night  when  I  am 
nearly  dead  in  order  to  write.     My  love  to  all. 

Yours  aff.     M.  D.  R. 

34 


ITALY 

Rome,  Jan.  2nd,  1870. 
Hotel  del  America. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

I  have  gotten  so  behindhand  that  I  have  hardly  courage 
to  commence.  We  have  been  now  in  Rome  a  week,  having 
arrived  here  Christmas  eve.  We  were  in  Naples  eight  days, 
and  in  that  time  managed  to  see  almost  everything  but  the 
Blue  Grotto,  at  Capri  and  that  can  only  be  seen  for  a  few 
days  during  the  year,  as  the  surface  of  the  water  is  so  near 
the  roof  of  the  entrance  that  if  there  is  the  slightest  ripple 
on  the  water  an  entrance  cannot  be  effected. 

We  spent  most  of  the  time  in  Naples  in  visiting  the  sur- 
roundings, which  are  very  beautiful.  One  day  we  devoted  to 
Posilipo,  Pozzuoli  and  Baiae,  saw  the  temples  of  Venus, 
Mercury,  Jupiter  and  Diana.  At  the  former  were  found  the 
four  celebrated  Venuses  now  in  the  Museum  at  Naples.  At 
Pozzuoli  we  visited  the  extinct  volcano  of  Solfatera,  which 
was  in  action  at  the  same  time  with  Vesuvius  when  Pompeii 
was  destroyed.  The  crater  is  almost  circular  and  about  a  mile 
in  circumference,  and  at  one  side  is  a  small  opening  from 
which  sulphurous  smoke  pours  out.  The  heat  is  so  intense 
that  there  is  danger  in  holding  one's  hand  near  it,  and  the 
mouth  of  the  opening  is  red  hot,  while  down  inside  one  can 
hear  a  terrible  warning  noise,  which  makes  you  feel  that  you 
are  on  pretty  dangerous  ground. 

Near  this  volcano  which  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  Naples 
from  Vesuvius,  is  the  old  Roman  Amphitheatre,  where  the 
Emperor  Nero  sometimes  fought  in  the  arena.  Along  that 
hill  which  extends  from  Pozzuoli  to  Baiae  are  the  summer 
residences  of  some  of  the  distinguished  Romans,  and  they 
showed  us  the  ruins  of  Julius  Caesar's  villa,  and  that  of  Nero, 
and  many  other  celebrated  Romans,  also  the  hot  baths  of 
Nero,  where  the  water  which  is  brought  from  the  Solfatera 
is  so  hot  that  it  boils  an  egg  easily. 

Our  most  amusing  adventure  was  in  the  Cave  of  the 
Cumaean  Sibyl  which  is  described   by  Virgil  in   the  ^neid. 

35 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  went  into  a  long  subterranean  passage,  and  there  we  had 
to  get  on  the  backs  of  men  provided  for  the  purpose,  who  wade 
through  water  up  to  the  knees,  through  narrow  circuitous 
passages  and  finally  deposit  you  on  a  slab  of  stone  about  two 
inches  above  the  level  of  the  water.  The  soot  from  the  torches 
used  there  for  years  has  enveloped  everything,  but  they  brush 
it  away  and  show  you  the  ancient  frescoes  all  over  the  walls. 
In  the  time  of  the  Sibyl  the  water  was  not  there  but  was  intro- 
duced warm  from  the  hillside  into  the  large  stone  bath  tubs, 
now  under  w^ater,  one  for  the  use  of  the  Sibyl  and  one  for  Nero. 
They  show  also  the  small  opening  through  the  thick  wall  from 
this  chamber  into  the  open  passage  where  the  Cavaliers  of  the 
day  used  to  stand  to  receive  the  divinations  of  the  Sibyl. 

Father  had  the  slimmest  guide  of  all  and  it  w^as  a  laughable 
sight  to  see  him  on  the  poor  man's  back.  But  the  funniest 
of  all  was  to  see  him  going  tip  Vesuvius.  We  took  a  whole 
day  for  that,  leaving  Naples  in  the  nine  o'clock  train  and  com- 
mencing the  ascent  with  horses  from  Portici.  We  were  on 
the  horses  about  an  hour  and  a  half.  After  we  had  passed 
the  hermitage  about  half  an  hour  we  left  our  horses  and  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  cone  which  is  1500  feet  high.  As 
you  look  up  at  this  it  appears  almost  perpendicular  and 
almost  impossible  for  any  one  to  climb,  but  I  knew  people 
did  it,  and  although  father  said  he  wouldn't  attempt  it  I 
announced  my  intention  to  do  it,  and  to  walk  into  the  bargain. 

Finally  we  began  the  ascent  as  follows.  I  ahead,  with  a 
guide  who  had  a  strap  over  his  shoulder  of  which  I  took  hold, 
and  another  behind  who  pushed  me  up.  Next  came  Emma 
seated  in  a  chair  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  four  guides,  look- 
ing very  much  like  the  Pope  when  he  enters  St.  Peter's  at  the 
ceremonials,  and  father  bringing  up  the  rear  fixed  out,  as  I 
was,  wath  two  guides.  When  you  think  that  there  is  no  road 
whatever  like  on  Mt.  Washington,  and  that  under  foot  is 
exactly  like  broken  glass  bottles  and  ashes,  and  with  all  that  in- 
clined at  an  angle  of  45  degrees,  you  can  realize  that  making  an 
ascent  of  1500  ft.  under  such  circumstances  is  no  small  matter. 

36 


ITALY 

However,  I  accomplished  it  without  using  the  chair,  but 
if  I  live  to  a  thousand  years  I  shall  never  forget  how  father 
looked  when  he  was  tilting  along  in  the  chair  at  the  imminent 
risk  of  being  spilled  over  backwards  and  shouting  at  the  top 
of  his  voice,  "On  the  mountain's  top  appearing,"  &c.  Once 
arrived  on  the  summit  of  the  crater,  we  could  see  nothing 
(and  any  way  there  is  nothing  to  see  on  account  of  the  dense 
clouds  which  surrounded,  and  the  sulphurous  smoke  is  ter- 
rible). I  got  very  much  frightened  while  I  was  up  above  the 
rest  on  the  crater,^ — after  breathing  the  sulphur  three  or 
four  times  I  felt  I  could  not  take  it  in  again  without  strang- 
ling, and  so  I  just  turned  about  without  being  able  to  see  an 
inch  before  me  through  the  dense  smoke,  slid  down,  tumbled 
down,  any  way  to  get  down  from  the  crater,  where  I  got  a 
breath  of  fresh  air  and  felt  as  if  I  had  made  a  narrow  escape. 

The  descent  is  made  part  of  the  way  on  that  side  of  the 
mountain  where  there  is  nothing  but  ashes.  It  seemed  quite  fear- 
ful to  think  of  first,  but  is  in  reality  the  easiest  way,  for  the  ashes 
have  so  much  body  to  them  that  you  don't  slide  in  further  than 
up  to  your  knees,  then  you  pull  out  that  foot  and  put  the  other 
in  and  slide  on,  only  that  you  reverse  the  process,  really. 

The  next  day  we  were  all  pretty  well  used  up  and  took 
the  day  for  shopping,  buying  coral  and  gloves.  On  the 
following  day  we  went  to  Pompeii.  We  were  a  little  dis- 
appointed to  find  that  all  the  objects  of  interest  found  in  the 
houses  have  been  removed  to  the  Museum  at  Naples  to  pre- 
serve them.  However,  there  is  sufficient  to  interest  one  in 
the  bare  walls,  and  who  last  lived  there,  and  under  what  cir- 
cumstances they  took  their  departure.  In  the  streets  are 
the  grooves  worn  by  the  chariots'  wheels,  and  where  the  last 
chariot  that  rolled  over  them  was  that  of  a  Sallust  or  a  Cicero. 
The  remnants  of  the  Forum,  Temples  and  theatres  are  all 
very  interesting,  but  the  private  houses  more  so.  In  the  cor- 
ner of  a  room  by  a  barred  window  we  saw  a  skeleton  all  doub- 
led up  and  the  head  stuffed  hard  with  ashes.  In  the  house 
of  Diomedes  who  was  the  richest  man  in  Pompeii  in  one  of 

37 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

the  underground  passages  there  was  on  the  wall  the  impress 
of  a  human  body,  overtaken  there  and  buried  standing  up- 
right by  the  volume  of  ashes.  The  skeleton  of  course  was 
removed  when  found. 

Under  Sallust's  house  was  a  wine  shop,  with  great  stone 
counters  with  holes  in  which  the  wine  jugs  were  set.  In  all 
the  houses  the  floors  are  of  fine  stone  mosaics  and  the  walls 
are  covered  with  beautiful  frescoes,  the  finest  of  which  have 
all  been  conveyed  to  the  Naples  Museum.  I  picked  up  a  few 
pieces  of  the  mosaic  to  send  home. 

Our  last  day  at  Naples  we  spent  at  Sorrento,  which  is  an 
hour's  ride  in  the  cars  and  an  hour's  ride  in  a  carriage  along  a 
lovely  coast  from  Naples.  There  we  saw  the  most  luxuriant 
orange  groves  we  have  seen  at  all.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
describe  the  beauty  of  the  Sorrento  portion  of  the  famous  bay. 
The  great  hills  luxuriantly  clothed  with  verdure  rising  with 
scarcely  any  slope  out  of  the  sea, — the  w^ater  dashing  up 
against  their  rocky  bases  and  displaying  as  many  as  five  or 
six  different  hues  until  they  all  blend  in  the  distance  into  a 
deep  dark  blue. 

It  was  about  dark  Christmas  eve  when  we  arrived  in 
Rome,  and  as  we  had  to  get  up  early  in  the  morning  went 
right  to  bed.  At  3  o'clock  we  dressed  and  went  to  St.  Peter's 
to  hear  the  Rastorella  the  only  time  it  is  performed  during 
the  year,  but  were  very  much  disappointed  in  it.  I  don't  like  the 
soprano  voices  which  belong  to  men,  women  not  being  allowed 
to  sing  in  the  Catholic  churches  here.  After  it  was  finished  we 
hurried  back  to  the  hotel  and  put  on  black  lace  veils  over  our 
heads  and  returned  as  rapidly  as  possible  to  the  church  in 
order  to  get  a  good  seat  in  the  tribune  for  the  high  mass  at 
ten  o'clock  Christmas  morning. 

The  tribune  is  a  place  on  one  side  of  the  high  altar  in 
St.  Peter's,  for  the  accommodation  of  ladies,  who  are  only 
admitted,  however,  in  black  lace  veils.  I  wish  I  could  give 
you  an  idea  of  the  magnificence  and  variety  of  the  costumes 
I  saw  on  that  day.     First   there  were  the  members  of  the 

38 


ITALY 

Pope's  household,  his  chamberlains,  &c.,  one  of  whom  seated 
the  ladies  in  the  tribune  I  spoke  of,  and  for  various  other 
purposes  were  stationed  around  the  church.  They  are  all 
noble  and  were  gorgeously  dressed  in  purple  silk  short  clothes 
and  velvet  doublet,  and  deep  cuffs  of  elegant  point  lace  on 
the  sleeves,  and  high  white  ruffs  around  the  neck,  and  a  short 
velvet  cloak  hanging  from  the  shoulders,  while  their  coats  are 
covered  with  badges  and  orders. 

Then  there  were  priests  of  every  order  and  description, 
some  in  white  and  some  in  red,  and  brown  and  black,  with 
every  degree  of  shaven  head.  When  the  church  was  quite 
full,  and  it  is  said  to  be  capable  of  holding  40,000  people,  the 
Pope's  Swiss  Guard  came  in  and  formed  a  line  around  the 
high  altar.  Their  costume  is  very  peculiar,  was  designed  by 
Michael  Angelo,  consists  of  slashed  trousers  of  black  and  yel- 
low and  red,  and  high  boots,  and  the  upper  part  was  dressed 
in  steel  armor  while  the  sleeves  matched  the  trousers  and 
steel  helmets  on  their  heads,  and  a  long  spear  called  a  hal- 
berd in  their  hands.  After  them  the  bishops  and  archbish- 
ops, Greek  and  Latin,  came  in  one  after  another.  They 
were  most  gorgeously  dressed  in  long  embroidered  robes  and 
the  Latin  with  high  white  pointed  mitres. 

The  Greeks  wore  richer  dresses  and  a  sort  of  triple  crown  in- 
stead of  a  mitre;  they  are  also  bearded  while  the  Latins  are  not. 
In  the  meantime  the  nobility  were  entering  on  all  sides, — they 
have  a  separate  tribune,  the  ladies  all  in  black  and  the  gen- 
tlemen also,  but  with  all  their  orders  on.  One  lady  came  in 
escorted  by  five  or  six  footmen,  who  proved  to  be  the  Empress 
of  Austria,  a  tall  fine-looking  woman.  Then  we  heard  a  blast 
of  trumpets  and  the  Giarde  Nobile,  the  Pope's  guard,  all  the 
members  of  which  belong  to  the  nobility,  came  in  and  formed 
a  double  line  the  whole  length  of  the  church  for  the  Pope  to 
pass  through.  They  were  dressed  in  scarlet  with  white  leather 
breeches,  and  finally,  after  a  great  deal  of  delay,  the  large 
feather  fans  made  their  appearance  and  we  knew  the  Pope 
was  coming.     These  fans  are  of  large  white  ostrich  feathers 

39 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

set  with  peacocks'  eyes,  and  are  typical  of  the  eyes  of  all  men 
resting  upon  him,  and  seven  men  carrying  tall  candles  go 
before  him,  referring  to  those  described  in  the  Apocalypse. 

Then  there  are  six  men  carrying  a  white  silk  canopy,  under 
which  is  the  Pope  in  a  magnificent  w^hite  robe,  seated  on  a 
portable  throne  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  men,  and  as  he 
passes  up  the  aisle  he  lifts  his  hand  feebly  at  intervals  to  be- 
stow his  blessing  on  the  multitude. 

At  this  ceremony  there  is  always  a  hat  and  sword  blessed 
and  given  to  some  of  the  nobility.  They  had  the  hat  bob- 
bing round  on  a  stick  during  the  whole  of  the  ceremony. 
At  the  conclusion  there  was  a  burst  of  silver  trumpets  from 
the  immense  dome,  of  which  the  effect  is  more  beautiful  than 
can  be  described. 

I  am  too  tired  to  write  more  to-night,  in  regard  to  what  I 
have  seen.  It  w'ould  amuse  the  children  very  much  to  see 
Father  shake  hands  with  the  little  beggars  who  come  after 
him,  and  they  think  he  is  going  to  give  them  something  but 
they  are  vastly  mistaken.  I  will  write  once  more  before  we 
leave  and  try  to  tell  you  all  about  Rome. 
With  much  love  to  all. 
Father  continues  well.  Yours  AflF.     M.  D.  R. 

Rome,  Jan.  3rd,  1870. 

We  have  seen  so  many  things  in  Rome  that  I  can 
scarcely  make  a  beginning,  but  I  think  I  have  seen  nothing 
that  I  prefer  to  the  Coliseum  and  the  Baths  of  Caracalla. 
The  seven  hills  are  all  included  within  the  walls,  the  Capi- 
toline.  Palatine,  Quirinal,  Esquiline,  Vimlnal,  Caelius  and  Aven- 
tine,  and  the  most  interesting  remnants  of  old  Rome  lie  near  the 
two  former.  At  the  foot  of  the  Capitoline  are  the  ruins  of  the 
Roman  Forum,  considerably  below  the  level  of  the  modern  city. 

There    is    very  little    standing   now — a   colonnade  in  one 

corner,  what  is  left  of  the   School  of  Xanthar,  and  there  are 

eight  columns  of  the  Temple    of  Saturn,  and   three   columns 

of   the    Temple     of    Jupiter,    also     the     Arch   of    Septimius 

40 


ITALY 

Severus  under  which  may  yet  be  seen  a  remnant  of  the  old 
Via  Sacra,  and  the  ground  all  around  is  covered  with  frag- 
ments of  columns.  On  the  right,  and  covering  the  Palatine 
Hill,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Palace  of  the  Caesars,  an  immense 
mass  which  has  only  recently  been  discovered,  the  summit 
of  the  hill  having  been  heretofore  a  public  garden.  Since  the 
discovery  it  is  being  excavated  at  the  expense  of  Napoleon  III. 
They  have  found  three  tiers  of  houses,  built  one  upon 
the  other,  first    that    built    by    Constantine  II,  that  by  the 


THE  FORUM,  ROME 


Caesars,  and  third  that  of  Romulus.  The  mosaic  pavements 
in  these  old  ruins  are  most  wonderful  and  the  amount  of 
elaborate  carving  in  white  marble,  and  the  glorious  old 
colunins  are  beyond  description.  Opposite  these  ruins  are  the 
Basilica  of  Constantine,  and  the  temples  of  Antoninus  and 
Faustina,  and  in  between  the  temple  of  Venus  and  Roma, 
and  in  front  of  all  the  Coliseum,  the  grandest  ruins  in  the 
world.  We  climbed  way  up  to  the  top  of  it,  and  could  hardly 
bear  to  look  down,  the  height  is  so  tremendous.  It  is  con- 
structed with  four  rows  of  seats,  the  lower  for  the  Emperor 

41 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  Senate,  the  next  for  the  nobility,  the  third  for  the  middle 
classes  and  the  highest  for  the  plebeians. 

I  bought  to-day  a  very  fine  stereoscopic  view  on  glass,  which 
I  paid  nearly  a  dollar  for;  it  is  a  new  kind  of  view  and  con- 
sidered very  beautiful.  One  day  we  visited  the  Baths  of 
Caracalla,  a  magnificent  ruin,  with  beautiful  mosaic  pave- 
ments (it  was  here  Shelley  wrote  most  of  the  Prometheus 
Unbound),  and  porphyry  columns.     I  took  away  a  few  pieces 


SS^ 


INTERIOR  OF  THE    COLISEUM,  ROME 

of  the  mosaic,  they  are  very  antique,  and  look  very  much 
like  malachite,  and  the  same  day  we  went  to  the  Catacombs  of 
St.  Sebastian.  I  think  we  walked  a  mile  or  two,  and  there  is 
no  knowing  how  far  one  could  walk.  They  are  merely  narrow 
passages  lined  with  holes  on  each  side,  for  the  bodies,  and  every 
once  in  awhile  altars,  and  by  the  side  of  a  great  many  tombs 
are  little  bottles  which  held  the  blood  of  the  martyrs. 

We  went  to  a  church  called  the  Three  Fountains,  on  the 
spot  where  St.  Paul  was  beheaded.    The  tradition  is  that  when 

42 


ITALY 

Paul's  head  fell  oflf  it  rebounded  three  times,  and  at  each  place  a 
miraculous  fountain  sprang  up.  Then  at  another  church 
outside  the  walls,  called  St.  Sebastian,  and  where  there  is  a 
beautiful  reclining  statue  of  that  Saint,  they  show  visitors  a 
stone  in  which  are  the  foot-prints  of  Christ  when  he  appeared 
as  a  vision  to  Peter  and  Paul  as  they  were  fleeing  from  Rome. 
We  saw  also,  in  a  little  church  outside  the  walls,  the  spot 
where  St.  Peter  was  crucified  and  I  took  some  sand  in  a  little 
bottle. 

Rome,  Jan.  4th,  1870. 

To-day  we  have  been  all  day  long  in  the  Vatican,  and 
have  seen  the  two  finest  pictures  the  world  contains,  that  is 
according  to  the  artistic  standard.  I  think  I  have  seen  pic- 
tures that  have  given  me  quite  as  much  pleasure,  but  in 
point  of  grandeur  of  conception  and  beauty  and  delicacy  of 
finish,  nothing  could  excel  the  "Transfiguration"  of  Raphael 
and  the  Last  Commission  of  St.  Jerome  by  Domenichino. 
They  are  in  the  Pinacotheca  or  Picture  Gallery  in  the  Vatican. 

The  other  fine  pictures  are  the  Madonna  da  Foligno,  and 
a  Magdalen  by  Guercino  and  Bavoccio.  The  celebrated  car- 
toons of  Raphael  are  executed  in  tapestry  and  hung  on  the  side 
walls  of  a  long  corridor.  I  think  I  should  enjoy  the  original 
drawings  much  more.  They  are  in  Hampton  Court,  England, 
I  believe.  The  Stanze  of  Raphael  are  distributed  through  four 
rooms.  Among  them  is  the  celebrated  picture  of  the  deliverance 
of  St.  Peter  from  prison  and  the  School  of  Athens,  and  a  fresco 
called  "Poetry"  representing  Apollo  on  Mount  Parnassus,  sur- 
rounded by  the  muses  and  Greek,  Roman  and  Italian  poets. 
In  the  whole  effect  of  the  Sistine  Chapel  I  was  considerably 
disappointed,  for  it  is  very  much  defaced  in  places,  and  I 
had  expected  to  see  something  extremely  elegant  in  detail. 
The  things  worth  remembering  in  it  are  the  "Last  Judgment" 
by  Michael  Angelo,  which  occupies  one  whole  end  of  the 
Chapel  and  the  frescoes  on  the  roof  by  the  same  painter 
pleased  us  as  much  as  anything  we  have  seen, — they  repre- 
senting the  difi^erent  stages  of  the  Creation  and  the  Expulsion 

43 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

from  Paradise.  The  two  figures  of  Eve  are  considered  perfect 
representations  of  female  beaut)^  The  statuary  of  the  V^ati- 
can  is  the  finest  in  the  world  with  the  exception  of  a  few  pieces 
in  the  Capitol  here,  and  some  at  Florence.  What  I  liked 
best  were  the  Perseus  and  two  Wrestlers  by  Canova,  the 
celebrated  Maleager  with  hound,  the  Belvidere  Apollo, 
.the  Belvidere  Antinous  and  the  Laocoon.  These  were  the 
finest,  but  there  were  Venuses  and  Minervas  and  others  by 
the  thousand,  all  beautiful  in  themselves,  but  comparatively  un- 


PuPE  i-iLb   IX  IN   THE  GARDEN   oP    iliE   VATIlAN 

important  when  viewed  beside  the  great  masterpieces.  In  the 
Palazzo  Barberini  is  the  celebrated  portrait  of  Beatrice  Cenci. 
The  rest  of  the  best  works  of  Art  in  Rome  are  to  be  found 
in  the  Capitol.  This  is  a  collection  of  large  palaces  on  the 
Summit  of  the  Capitoline  hill  overhanging  the  Forum.  The 
galleries  of  sculpture  and  painting  occupy  two  sides  of  a 
square  and  the  Hall  of  Senators  a  third.  In  the  middle  and 
front  of  the  latter  are  two  colossal  statues  of  the  Nile  and 
Tiber  and  in  the  middle  of  the  open  square  a  large  statue  of 
Marcus  Aurelius.  It  must  at  one  time  have  been  covered 
with  gilt  as  there  are  traces  of  it  on  the  neck  of  the  horse.     In 

44 


ITALY 

the  Sculpture  gallery  we  saw  the  "Dying  Gladiator."  I  could 
only  take  a  short  look  at  it,  which,  however,  was  long  enough 
to  impress  me  with  the  great  power  of  expression  displayed  in 
it.  It  represents  a  Gallic  gladiator  dying  in  the  arena  of  the 
Coliseum  probably,  and  the  agony  in  his  face  is  finely  expressed. 

In  the  same  room  is  the  Faun  of  Praxiteles  mentioned 
In  the  "Marble  Faun"  as  the  one  of  Donatello  it  so  strikingly 
resembled.  The  Venus  of  the  Capitol  Is  kept  under  lock  and 
key,  and  is  a  most  lovely  creation.  All  these  are  relics  of  an- 
cient Roman  art.  I  think  the  marble  the  ancients  used  does 
not  compare  with  the  Carrara  A/[arble  now  in  general  use 
among  Sculptors. 

Our  last  day  in  Rome  was  spent  among  the  studios,  but 
as  we  were  all  very  tired  we  concluded  to  visit  those  of 
American  artists  only.  We  went  first  to  Buchanan  Read's, 
found  him  at  home  and  very  affable.  His  paintings  are  all  very 
much  in  the  same  style  and  I  must  say  that  I  think  his  con- 
ception of  angels  is  far  finer  than  one  sees  generally — he  makes 
them  to  appear  almost  transparent.  The  "Pleiades  "  and  "Will 
of  the  Wisp"  I  liked  best  of  the  pictures  we  saw  in  his  studio. 

Miss  Hosmer  we  did  not  find  at  her  studio — had  just  gone 
out.  We  saw  her  "Sleeping  Faun"  and  a  beautiful  fountain 
ordered  by  an  English  lady,  all  very  fine  works.  We  went  to 
Vinnie  Ream's  studio  partly  to  see  her  and  partly  the  statue  of 
Lincoln  she  is  making.  She  was  not  by  any  means  the  beauty 
I  expected  to  see  and  I  was  not  particularly  prepossessed  by 
her  or  her  statue,  though  the  face  of  the  latter  is  very  natural. 

Reinhart  is  the  American  sculptor  who  has  gained  the 
highest  reputation  in  Rome,  and  we  certainly  found  more 
to  admire  there  than  anywhere  else.  I  have  no  doubt  you 
think  these  letters  terribly  tedious  for  I  find  that  I  have 
confined  myself  quite  too  strictly  to  the  things  I  have  seen, 
but  you  must  remember  that  it  is  a  great  deal  more  satis- 
factory in  the  end  to  have  an  account  of  all  one's  travels,  for 
traveling  as  rapidly  as  we  do  it  is  impossible  to  remember  one- 
half  of  what  we  see  or  what  is  told  us. 

45 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Hotel  della  Citta, 

Florence,  Jan.  7th,  1870. 
Dear  Mother, 

We  left  Rome  very  early  yesterday  morning  and  had  a 
very  long  fatiguing  journey  here,  although  we  passed  through 
some  of  the  loveliest  country  I  have  ever  seen.  The  road  runs 
along  under  high  mountains,  the  Apennines,  and  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  fertile  valleys  and  high  peaks  and  narrow,  swift 
streams  and  sometimes  cataracts.  One  reason  why  we  were 
so  tired  was  that  we  were  kept  awake  all  the  night  before  by 
the  noises  in  the  streets  of  Rome.  It  seems  that  on  the  night 
of  the  5th  of  January  the  Pope  liberates  the  Devil  in  Rome 
for  three  days,  and  he  is  allowed  to  run  loose  and  do  what  he 
chooses  until  the  end  of  that  time.  And  anyone  would  have 
certainly  thought  he  had  really  got  loose  by  the  noise  of  the 
men,  women  and  boys  who  collect  and  go  through  the  streets 
each  playing  on  a  different  instrument,  and  they  manage  to  make 
an  outrageous  noise. 

As  we  entered  the  depot  at  six  o'clock  to  come  here,  the 
guns  of  St.  Angelo  ushered  in  the  Epiphany  and  there  was  to 
be  a  grand  ceremony  at  St.  Peter's.  All  day  yesterday  and 
to-day  I  have  been  troubled  with  a  terrible  cold  in  my  head 
and  throat,  so  we  didn't  manage  to  do  much  sightseeing  to- 
day. We  went,  however,  to  the  Pitti  Palace  and  through 
its  Gallery,  saw  several  beautiful  Holy  Families  by  Andrea 
del  Sarto,  and  the  Madonna  del  Seggiola  of  Raphael,  con- 
sidered the  most  beautiful  of  all  Madonnas  and  indeed  it  is 
beautiful.  But  a  Holy  Family  of  Andrea  del  Sarto  I  like 
just  as  well.  In  one  of  the  rooms  we  saw  a  most  elegant 
mosaic  table  which  cost  an  almost  fabulous  price. 

The  shops  here  are  filled  with  mosaic  jewelry  and  paper 
weights  inlaid  with  beautiful  flowers  almost  as  perfect  as 
nature,  and  boxes  for  all  sorts  of  uses. 


46 


ITALY 

Florence,  Monday,  Jan.  loth,  1870. 

We  haven't  had  one  decent  day  since  we  arrived  here  last 
Thursday  night,  so  that  we  have  really  seen  very  little  of 
Florence.  One  day  we  spent  in  the  Pitti  Palace,  which  is  the 
residence  of  Victor  Emmanuel.  This  Palace  is  on  one  side 
of  the  river  and  the  Uffizi  on  the  other, — they  are  both  used 
as  galleries  of  Art,  and  are  connected  by  a  long  narrow  pas- 
sage built  over  the  tops  of  the  houses  and  that  crosses  the  bridge 
over  the  Arno  in  the  same  way.  In  the  Uffizi  we  saw  the  cele- 
brated Venus  di  Medici,  in  which  I  was  dreadfully  disappointed, 
the  Dancing  Faun,  the  Young  Apollo,  the  Wrestlers  and 
Antonino  or  slave  whetting  his  knife,  five  works  of  great  celeb- 
rity as  well  as  antiquity.  The  finest  of  the  paintings  in 
this  gallery  were  the  Madonna  of  the  Goldfinch,  and  of  Ra- 
phael and  his  celebrated  Fornarina,  the  Venus  alluded  to  by 
Byron,  Guercino's  Sibyl,  and  a  Madonna  and  child  by  Corr- 
eggio.  The  Carlo  Dolce's  Mater  Dolorosa,  of  which  there 
is  an  engraving  in  the  parlor,  we  saw,  I  think,  in  the  Pitti 
Palace.  Afterwards  we  went  to  the  house  where  Dante  used 
to  live.  It  is  unoccupied  and  the  windows  broken  in  so  we 
did  not  think  it  worth  while  to  enter,  and  went  to  the  house 
of  Michael  Angelo,  which  is  a  palace,  as  he  was  noble.  There 
we  saw  quantities  of  sketches  in  all  stages  of  completion. 
They  show  his  furniture  and  portraits  of  his  family  and  the 
little  cabinet  where  he  used  to  write. 

We  then  drove  to  the  Palazzo  Vecchio,  where  in  the  open 
square  is  a  fine  fountain  called  the  Fountain  of  Neptune,  and 
in  the  portico  along  side  of  it  are  some  magnificent  statues, 
Michael  Angelo's  David,  Perseus,  with  the  Medusa's  Head, 
and  the  Rape  of  the  Sabines,  and  after  that  to  the  Museum 
where  there  is  a  good  collection  of  bronzes  and  ancient  armor 
and  weapons.  The  only  thing  worth  remembering  is,  I  be- 
lieve, a  fine  bronze  of  Mercury  represented  in  motion.  I  take 
more  interest  in  the  churches  than  anything  else  and  they 
are  remarkably  fine  here. 

In  the  Church  of  Santa  Croce  are  buried  almost  all  the 

47 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Florentines  of  distinction.  Here  are  the  tombs  of  Michael 
Angelo  and  Dante,  Machiavelli,  Galileo,  Michele,  Nobili,  Lami, 
and  Bruni,  This  church  is  alluded  to  by  Byron  in  the  4th  canto 
of  Childe  Harold.  It  is  very  large  and  gloomy,  as  most  Catholic 
churches  are,  and  they  were  conducting  Vesper  service  while  we 
were  looking  at  the  tombs.  The  combined  effect  of  the  music 
and  associations  connected  with  the  place  I  shall  never  forget. 


Till-:  >;()(")>:  hour."  fldrI' N'i: 


In  the  church  of  San  Lorenzo  in  front  of  the  high  altar  is 
the  testimonial  presented  to  Cosmo  di  Medici,  with  the 
words  "Pater  Patriae."  In  one  of  the  side  chapels. is  the  tomb 
of  Lorenzo  di  Medici  executed  by  Michael  Angelo.  The  finest 
part  of  the  church  is  the  Medicean  chapel,  built  in  circular 
form  with  a  magnificent  dome  and  lighted  only  by  a  few  win- 
dows way  up  in  the  dome.  In  this  are  the  tombs  of  the  rest 
of  the  Medici  family.  The  walls  are  one  solid  mass  of  the 
most  elegant  mosaic  in  costly  marbles  you  can  imagine,  even 
precious  stones  are  used  in  the  ornamentation. 

48 


ITALY 

But  of  all  things  the  Duomo  or  great  cathedral  pleases  me 
most.  The  exterior,  which  is  500  ft.  long,  is  covered  with  blocks 
of  black  and  white  marbles  arranged  in  patterns,  and  in  the  in- 
terior, which  is  quite  plain,  the  light  is  always  like  subdued 
moonlight,  and  the  echoes  of  the  organ  tones  are  wonderful. 
We  ascended  to  the  dome,  and  from  the  balcony,  which  is  built 
just  at  the  foot  of  the  dome,  looking  down,  the  men  and  women 
below  look  like  flies  crawling  on  the  pavement,  and  the  feet 
of  figures  in  the  fresco  of  the  dome  are  longer  than  a  man's 
cane,   while   from   below   they   look   perfectly   minute.     The 


PONTE  VECCHIO.  FLORENCE 
Built  in  1345 

Campanile  or  bell  tower  is  built  separate  from  the  church  and 
is  square,  built  of  marbles  of  all  colors  and  blocks  of  all  sizes 
arranged  in  the  most  elaborate  patterns.  The  Baptistery  in 
which  all  the  children  are  baptized  has  the  celebrated  bronze 
doors  by  Ghiberti  which  Michael  Angelo  said  were  worthy 
to  be  the  gates  of  Paradise,  but  I  couldn't  see  it. 

I  am  so  glad  Jimmy  wants  to  take  lessons  on  the  organ, 
do  let  him  take  of  Mr.  Anton,  and  tell  him  I  want  him  to  take 
pains  with  him  and  be  strict  with  him. 

We  leave  to-morrow  morning  for  Venice  and  shall  be  in 
Milan  Saturday  night.     With  much  love. 

Yours  aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

4  49 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Venice,  Jan.  12th,  1870. 

Hotel  Victoria. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

Here  we  are  in  Venice,  and  all  of  us  perfectly  carried  away 
with  It,  and  Father  the  most  of  us  all.  We  travelled  all  day 
yesterday  through  the  most  beautiful  country  imaginable, 
among  mountains  with  their  tops  covered  with  snow,  and  by 
little  villages  in  the  hollows  between  them  and  in  sight  of  all 
sorts  of  pretty  and  romantic  bridges  spanning  the  mountain 
torrents,  and  towards  evening  the  railroad  swept  out  into  the 
open  sea  and  we  were  in  Venice  before  we  knew  it.  We  had 
a  moonlight  ride  in  a  gondola  to  the  hotel  and  for  real  romance 
found  it  the  only  thing  that  has  not  disappointed  us  at  first 
sight. 

Venice,  Jan.  13th,  1870. 

We  have  concluded  to  go  away  to-morrow  morning  and 
as  I  don't  wish  to  have  anything  on  my  mind,  I  will  give  you 
an  account  of  it  and  send  this  oflF  from  Venice  so  it  may  go 
by  the  way  of  Germany. 

We  spent  our  first  morning  in  looking  at  the  surround- 
ings of  St.  Mark's  square,  which  can  be  reached  from  the  hotel 
by  a  very  narrow  and  crowded  street.  This  brings  us  out 
facing  St.  Mark's  church,  which  is  decidedly  the  most  in- 
teresting church  we  have  seen  in  point  of  architecture,  being 
built  in  the  Moslem  style  with  domes  and  minarets.  The 
front  is  supported  by  pillars  brought  from  the  church  of  Santa 
Sofia  in  Constantinople,  and  over  the  doors  are  the  gilt  bronze 
horses  of  St.  Mark.  The  inside  is  more  peculiar  than  the 
outside,  if  that  be  possible.  The  roof  is  one  mass  of  mosaic 
on  gilt  ground  and  the  floor  is  mosaic  and  very  elaborate,  the 
parapet  is  formed  entirely  of  the  fronts  of  tombs  from  Con- 
stantinople and  four  of  the  pillars  of  the  high  altar  were 
brought  from  Solomon's  Temple,  though  I  find  the  latter 
rather  hard  to  believe. 

They  also  show  some  very  rich  columns  carved  in  alto 
relievo  the  whole  length,   and  in  the  Baptistery  an  elegant 

50 


ITALY 

font  from  Constantinople  of  bronze  carved  instead  of  moulded. 
In  this  church  is  the  pulpit  from  which  the  Doges  preached 
at  the  time  of  the  crusades — you  know  they  all  started  from 
here  and  were  fitted  out  here.  In  front  of  the  church  are 
three  red  masts,  standards  to  commemorate  the  three  great 
conquests  made  by  Venice.  The  open  square  of  St.  Mark's 
is  about  600  feet  long  and  paved  with  large  blocks  of  stone. 
It  is  very  imposing,  surrounded  on  all  sides  with  magnificent 
palaces,  on  one  side  the  ancient  palace  of  the  Doges  and  on 
the  other  the  royal  palace  of  Victor  Emmanuel.  The  open  side 
of  the  square  is  on  the  w^ater  and  is  the  grand  or  State  land- 
ing, and  there  stand  two  immense  pillars  of  granite,  one  sur- 
mounted with  the  Venetian  lion  and  the  other  with  Theodore, 
the  first  patron  saint  of  the  city. 

It  was  between  these  two  columns  criminals  were  formerly 
executed.  When  Mariano  Faliero  landed  at  Venice  in  the  dark 
he  came  by  mistake  between  these  columns,  a  fact  held  to  be 
ominous  by  the  people,  and  in  a  year  he  was  executed.  I  for- 
got to  say  that  in  the  baptistery  of  the  church  the  altar  was 
formed  from  a  large  rock,  from  the  summit  of  Mt.  Tabor, 
where  the  Transfiguration  took  place. 

The  Doges'  Palace  is  full  of  historic  interest.  Part  of  it  is 
now  used  as  a  public  library  and  is  ornamented  with  very 
fine  paintings.  In  it  are  the  Halls  and  Antechambers  of  the 
celebrated  Councils  of  Three,  Forty  and  Ten,  who  ruled  the  Re- 
public with  the  Doge,  and  also  the  secret  passages  leading  from 
the  Bridge  of  Sighs  to  these  Halls,  for  the  use  of  the  prisoners. 
Father  seated  himself  in  the  Doge's  seat  and  feltvery  important. 

The  garret  was  formerly  used  as  a  prison  in  the  summer 
season,  as  a  more  severe  punishment  on  account  of  the  heat. 
Here  Silvio  Pellico  and  Casanova  were  imprisoned  and  the 
former  used  to  feed  the  doves  out  of  his  prison  window.  Of 
course  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  interested  us  more  than  anything 
else.  It  connects  the  Doges'  Palace  with  the  large  prison 
separated  from  it  by  a  small  canal.  The  most  gloomy  and 
dreadful  prisons  are  on  the  Palace  side  of  the  bridge  and  were 

51 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

called  the  Political  prisons.  It  is  said  that  no  one  could  sur- 
vive more  than  eight  days  in  them.  It  was  here  Mariano 
Faliero  and  the  two  Foscari  were  imprisoned  and  were  exe- 
cuted at  the  entrance  of  the  bridge  in  a  narrow  dark  passage- 
way. AH  criminals  were  brought  over  the  Bridge  of  Sighs 
to  hear  their  sentence  and  executed  between  the  two  columns 
in  the  Piazza. 


Ilfl    ,' 


i   • 


THE  CAMPANILE  AND  THE  PALACE  OF  THE  DOGES,  VENICE 

There  is  a  magnificent  entrance  to  the  Palace  called  the 
Giants'  Staircase  on  account  of  the  colossal  figures  of  Mars 
and  Neptune  at  the  top.  At  the  head  of  this  stair-case  the 
Doges  w^ere  crow^ned  and  in  the  middle  half-way  down 
Mariano  Faliero  was  executed,  having  been  tortured  for 
two  days  before.     The  clock  tower  of  the  church  is  a  great 

52 


ITALY 

curiosity,  on  the  high  tower  are  two  bronze  men  standing, 
one  on  each  side  of  a  bell,  and  these  men  strike  the  hours  with 
huge  hammers.  As  the  clock  strikes  two  every  day  all  the 
pigeons  in  Venice  come  to  one  window  in  the  square  to  be  fed, 
an  old  lady  having  left  a  bequest  to  that  effect.  You  cannot 
imagine  what  a  curious  sight  it  is  to  see  those  birds  flying 
from  all  points  as  the  clock  strikes  and  many  come  a  few 
minutes  beforehand  and  seat  themselves  around  the  window. 
We  have  fed  them  for  two  days  with  corn  and  they  come 
around  us  by  the  hundred  and  will  even  light  on  your  hand, 
they  are  so  tame. 

We  have  been  into  quite  a  number  of  churches,  one  of 
them  remarkable  for  being  the  burial  place  of  most  of  the 
Doges,  but  have  seen  none  that  pleased  us  so  much  as  that 
containing  Titian  and  Canova,  Santa  Maria  dei  Frari.  That 
of  the  former  is  very  beautiful  in  itself,  but  is  so  completely 
eclipsed  by  the  tomb  of  Canova  that  one  scarcely  cares  to  look 
at  it.  Anything  to  equal  that  in  the  effect  it  has  upon  one, 
I  never  saw.  It  represents  a  pyramidal  tomb  with  half  open 
doors  and  flight  of  steps  on  which  at  one  side  Genius  habited 
as  an  angel  is  presented  dying,  and  on  the  other  a  procession 
of  figures  all  life  size  are  ascending  from  the  side,  the  fore- 
most of  which,  a  beautiful  figure  completely  veiled,  carries  an 
urn  in  which  is  Canova's  heart. 

There  is  also  in  this  church  a  very  remarkable  monument 
to  one  of  the  Doges,  colossal  Moors  in  black  marble  and 
clothed   in  white,  holding  up  a  balcony  on  which  he  sits. 

We  went  to-day  to  the  Arsenal  but  were  not  permitted 
to  enter  as  the  workmen  had  mutinied  but  we  wxre  quite  satis- 
fied to  look  at  the  outside.  On  each  side  of  the  gate  is  a  co- 
lossal lion  in  Greek  marble,  brought  from  Athens,  and  dating 
back  to  before  Christ.  It  seems  when  the  1st  Napoleon  came 
to  Venice  he  broke  the  heads  of  all  the  lions  in  Venice  so  that 
they  are  all  to  be  seen  now  with  patched  heads. 

Yesterday  we  went  to  the  Rialto,  the  famous  bridge  over 
the  grand  canal,  consisting  of  one  arch  and  having  three  pas- 

53 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

sage-ways — near  this  we  found  Shylock's  money  shop,  and 
found  them  still  at  the  same  old  trade.  Father  went  in  and 
asked  them  if  they  had  any  "monish"  to  lend.  On  the  grand 
canal  are  many  fine  palaces,  belonging  to  the  old  Venetian  no- 
bility, there  also  is  the  house  of  Desdemona,  and  in  another  part 
of  the  cit}'  that  of  the  Moor,  Othello,  ornamented  with  a  black 
statue  of  himself.  Nearby  was  the  house  of  Paul  Veronese 
and  in  another  part  of  the  city  we  were  shown  where  Titian 
lived.  Canova  the  great  sculptor  lived  here,  and  in  one  of 
the  private  palaces  here  are  two  fine  statues  of  his  "Ajax"  and 
"Hector."  We  have  seen  some  fine  works  of  art,  but  I  am 
so  tired  of  looking  at  pictures  that  I  find  it  very  difficult  to 
remember  them.  Paul  Veronese's  "Rape  of  Europa"  and  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  and  some  historical  pictures  of 
value  are  the  best  worth  remembering.  In  the  Scuola  St.  Roch 
are  very  fine  frescoes  and  wood  carvings  and  parapets  for  the 
altar,  one  mass  of  gold  and  precious  stones,  used  on  Feast  Days. 

We  have  just  returned  from  a  moonlight  walk  in  the 
square,  and  the  Rialto.  It  is  a  sight  I  shall  never  forget.  As 
we  were  standing  near  the  column  of  the  Lion  of  St.  Mark,  a 
man  issued  out  dressed  in  an  immense  white  mask  with  long 
flowing  hair  and  saluted  us.  We  were  quite  a  little  frightened 
at  first,  but  he  did  not  molest  us. 

We  shall  be  in  Milan  to-morrow  night  and  I  am  very  glad, 
being  about  worn  out  with  travelling,  for  between  driving 
about  all  day  doing  the  hardest  kind  of  work  for  there  is  no 
harder  work  than  sight  seeing,  and  writing  all  night  there  is  not 
much  left  of  me.  Emma  is  going  to  stay  with  me  in  Milan, 
where  I  shall  remain  until  ready  to  travel  next  summer.  Father 
is  beginning  to  be  anxious  to  get  home,  and  I  think  we  shall 
all  be  glad  to  rest.  We  have  got  Kate  Flinn  a  rosary  blessed 
by  the  Pope,  and  I  had  one  given  to  me,  a  present  from  the 
Bishop  of  Toronto,  Canada,  who  came  over  with  us.  My 
love  to  all  inquiring.     Tell  the  children  to  write. 

With  much  love, 

Yr.  aff.  niece  M.  D.  R. 

54 


ITALY 

No.  7.  P.  Via  Pasquirolo, 

Milan,  Jan.  i8th,  1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

Father  has  left  us  and  here  we  are  sitting  in  our  parlour 
as  forlorn  as  possible.  I  felt  dreadfully  to  have  father  go. 
We  moved  Into  our  apartments  yesterday  and  he  stayed  with 
us  until  his  dinner,  then  went  and  returned  for  us  to  accom- 
pany him  to  the  railway  station.  I  never  felt  so  badly  in  my 
life  as  when  I  saw  the  last  of  him  and  I  think  he  felt  very 
badly  also.  He  seemed  to  dread  the  journey  very  much. 
His  general  health  seems  very  good,  but  he  suffers  very  much 
with  the  cold,  as  Indeed  all  of  us  do.  He  can  outwalk  any  of 
us  and  has  slept  well  until  lately,  and  now  he  wakes  up  early 
in  the  morning.  He  will  be  in  Paris  to-morrow  morning  if 
he  is  not  delayed,  and  we  shall  hear  from  him  in  a  day  or  two. 

We  spent  the  time  while  he  was  here  in  seeing  the  places 
of  interest.  Sunday  afternoon  we  went  to  the  Cathedral  and 
to  the  top  of  It,  and  from  there  had  a  splendid  view  of  the 
Mountains  with  their  tops  covered  with  snow.  This  Cathe- 
dral is  a  wonderful  structure.  It  is  all  built  of  white  marble 
and  the  outside  is  a  mass  of  the  most  delicate  and  ethereal 
pinnacles  and  the  Inside  of  Gothic  arches.  There  are 
accommodations  for  ever  so  many  thousand  statues,  but 
as  there  is  such  a  difference  of  opinion  In  regard  to  the  number, 
I  will  not  attempt  to  tell  how  many!  Under  the  altar  is 
a  subterranean  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Charles  the  first.  Arch- 
bishop of  Milan.  He  is  exhibited  in  very  elegant  clothes  in 
a  silver  coffin,  through  a  rock-crystal  cover. 

In  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  delle  Grazle  we  saw  the 
celebrated  painting  of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  the  Last  Supper, 
which  you  have  seen  in  many  engravings. 

Now  I  will  tell  you  about  our  apartments.  We  went 
to  work  the  first  thing  to  find  the  American  Consul  and  call 
on  him.  He  told  us  It  would  be  of  no  use  to  go  about  in 
search  of  apartments,  that  he  would  do  it  for  us,  &c.,  and  the 
next  day  he  came  for  us  to  go  look  at  some.     We  were  well 

55 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

pleased  and  he  said  he  knew  it  was  the  best  we  could  do. 
They  consist  of  quite  a  large  room  with  two  windows, 
grand  piano  and  quite  handsome  furniture, — that  is  our 
parlor,  and  a  small  bedroom  adjoining. 

We  have  made  arrangements  to-day  about  our  French  and 
Italian  lessons  and  by  the  time  I  write  again  shall  be  able  to 
tell  you  what  sort  of  person  I  have  got  for  a  singing  teacher. 
I  suppose  you  all  think  that  as  we  are  in  sunny  Italy  we  ought 
to  be  very  warm.  Far  from  it!  I  never  suffered  so  in  all  my 
life  with  the  cold.  I  spend  most  of  my  time  sitting,  bellows 
in  hand,  trying  to  keep  the  fire  from  going  out  altogether. 
The  only  people  in  the  house  are  three  English  girls  and  an 
Italian  Professor  of  literature.  We  have  seen  them  only  at 
dinner  and  such  a  dinner!     Macaroni,  chestnuts  and  onions! 

We  took  our  coffee  in  bed  this  morning  and  had  breakfast 
at  half  past  eleven.  Then  we  went  out  and  got  some  few  neces- 
saries. I  have  been  reading  over  all  your  letters  to  cheer  me 
up.  I  feel  so  dreadfully  now  father  is  gone.  It  is  awfully 
lonesome  for  us  two,  alone  among  strangers.  I  wish  you 
would  write  very  often — you  don't  know  how  welcome  your 
letters  are.  I  like  to  get  just  the  kind  of  letter  you  write  tell- 
ing all  the  home  news.  I  have  sent  to  Paris  for  my  gray  poplin 
and  black  and  white  silk,  and  expect  to  wear  out  some  of  my  old 
clothes  while  I  am  here.  I  shall  not  get  anything  new  unless 
perhaps  a  new  black  silk  suit  when  I  leave  here  next  summer. 

We  understand  they  keep  the  carnival  here  more  than 
in  Rome.  I  suppose  we  shall  go  to  one  of  the  Masked  Balls 
in  "La  Scala"  before  it  is  over.  I  forgot  to  say  that  Father 
took  us  one  night  to  the  Opera  to  see  "Piero  di  Medici."  We 
had  a  box  and  invited  the  Consul  and  he  came.  I  would 
give  a  good  deal  to-night  if  I  could  toast  my  feet  over  a  reg- 
ister. My  hands  are  so  stiflF  now  that  I  can  hardly  write  and 
I  don't  see  but  what  we  are  really  going  to  suffer  with  the 
cold  until  warm  weather  comes.  Do  write  often  and  tell  Cliff 
and  Warren  to  write  also. 

With  love  to  all  inquiring  friends, 

Your  aff.  niece,  M.  D.  R. 

56 


ITALY 

Milan,  Jan.  30th,  1870. 
Dear  Mother, 

I  am  not  feeling  very  well  to-day,  but  felt  that  I  ought 
not  to  let  the  day  pass  without  writing  a  letter  home.  I  think 
I  have  got  the  ague,  this  climate  is  very  much  like  ours,  and 
they  have  intermittent  fever  here  as  well  as  all  through  Italy, 
but  I  hope  to  get  over  it  soon.  We  begin  to  feel  quite  at  home 
in  our  rooms  now,  and  long  for  warm  weather  to  come.  We 
have  had  several  calls,  a  Mrs.  Heisch  and  her  daughter — very 
nice  English  people  who  boarded  at  the  hotel  where  we  stopped 
when  we  first  came,  and  the  minister  who  preaches  at  the 
English  Chapel,  where  we  go  every  Sunday  and  pray  for  Vic- 
tor Emmanuel  and  the  Queen  of  England.  He  has  gone  away 
for  his  health  and  the  minister  who  has  supplied  his  place  has 
also  called.  The  American  Consul,  Mr.  Clarke  from  Boston, 
comes  to  see  us  nearly  every  other  day,  and  to-day  he  intro- 
duced the  English  Consul  to  us,  and  he  will  also  call. 

We  are  now  settled  at  our  lessons,  but  no  matter  how  dili- 
gent we  may  be,  four  months  is  too  short  a  time  to  learn  very 
much.  We  take  lessons  in  French  and  Italian  of  a  lady,  and 
Emma  takes  lessons  in  instrumental  music  of  Luca  Fumigalli, 
who  is  a  composer  and  has  played  at  the  best  concerts  in  Lon- 
don. I  take  singing  of  Maestro  Corsi  who  has  been  one  of 
the  great  artists,  such  as  Garcia  and  Ronconi  have  been.  We 
went  the  other  night  with  Mr.  Clarke  to  see  the  Opera  of 
"Rigoletto"  in  which  Corsi  is  playing  for  the  first  time  in  fifteen 
years  for  he  is  quite  an  old  man  and  has  not  had  any  voice 
for  a  long  time.  His  acting  is  very  celebrated  and  certainly 
is  the  finest  I  ever  saw.  We  got  quite  frightened  at  one  time, 
the  people  became  so  excited  when  there  was  a  particularly 
fine  part,  crying  "Corsi"  and  "Bravo,"  and  called  him  out 
before  the  curtain  four  times  before  they  became  quiet. 

I  am  taking  three  lessons  a  week  now  and  he  will  not  let 
me  practice  more  than  two  hours  a  day,  says  my  voice  is 
soprano  and  sweet  and  flexible.  I  went  to  hear  a  lesson  at 
Lamperti's  who  has  trained  a  great  many  for  the  stage,  and  was 

57 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

never  so  disgusted  in  all  my  life.  His  lessons  arc  from  twelve 
to  four.  In  the  meantime  all  the  scholars  come  in  and  he  takes 
them  in  turn.  He  sits  down  on  the  sofa  and  takes  hold  of  the 
pupil's  hand  and  with  a  stick  which  he  holds  in  the  other  hand 
he  marks  the  time  and  how  he  wants  the  tones  shaded  by  pass- 
ing the  stick  over  the  pupil's  arm.  He  in  the  mean  time  smokes 
and  laughs  and  talks  with  all  the  people  in  the  room  and  all  the 
artists  in  the  city  walk  in  and  out  of  the  room  smoking  also,  and 
the  smoke  and  confusion  cannot  be  imagined.  All  sorts  of 
characters  go  there,  most  all  of  them  are  training  for  the  stage. 

This  is  one  of  the  places  where  all  the  engagements, 
musical,  are  made.  I  had  a  letter  from  Father  this  morning 
saying  that  he  had  concluded  to  wait  a  week  longer  in  London 
for  the  sake  of  going  with  Mr.  Perry  and  Cyrus  W.  Field, 
as  they  wanted  him  to.  I  am  glad  Father  has  met  friends. 
He  needs  a  great  deal  of  society  and  is  very  dependent  on 
it, — he  was  dreadfully  homesick.  Vienna  is  the  place  to 
buy  all  sorts  of  things  in  Russia  leather.  Silks  and  velvets 
and  laces  and  underclothing  are  the  things  that  it  pays  to 
buy.  I  shall  not  be  in  Paris  until  next  September  at  least, 
so  you  will  have  plenty  of  time  to  think  over  what  you  want 
me  to  get  by  that  time. 

I  shall  be  dreadfully  discouraged  if  I  get  the  ague  fastened 
on  me  again.  It  takes  all  the  ambition  out  of  one.  I  shall 
go  out  to-morrow  and  hunt  some  quinine.  Mr.  Clarke  says 
it  is  well  to  take  it  often  in  this  climate.  I  would  give  a  good 
deal  if  I  could  look  in  on  you  all  to-night.  I  do  miss  father 
so.  I  think  you  had  better  decide  to  come  over  next  summer 
with  Mr.  Greeley,  and  travel  all  summer,  and  we'll  go  back 
in  the  fall  together.  Do  write  often,  just  think  how  you  would 
feel  if  you  were  off  here  alone.  Some  of  you  can  certainly 
write  once  a  week.  My  letters  are  to  all.  My  time  is  so 
occupied  I  can't  write  oftener  than  once  a  week. 

Your  aif.  daughter, 

M.  D.  R. 

58 


ITALY 

No.  7  Via  Pasquirolo, 

Milan,  Feb.  9th,  1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

It  is  nearly  a  month  now  since  I  have  heard  a  word  from 
home  and  I  can't  imagine  what  you  are  all  thinking  of.  It 
is  three  weeks  since  Father  left  us  to  go  to  London  and  since 
then  I  have  not  heard  a  single  word  from  any  of  you.  Father 
has  written  me  every  few  days,  and  I'm  thankful  to  say  so, 
or  I  don't  know  what  would  have  become  of  us.  Last  Satur- 
day, the  day  I  knew  Father  was  to  sail  from  Liverpool,  I 
thought  I  would  die  of  homesickness,  and  sat  down  and  cried 
for  two  or  three  hours. 

You  at  home  cannot  imagine  how  we  are  situated  here. 
We  don't  know  but  two  or  three  people  here,  and  of  course 
being  busy  can't  see  much  of  them.  A  Mrs.  Bonney  and 
children  from  Boston  were  here  to-day  and  a  Mrs.  Heisch  and 
daughter  from  England  are  the  only  acquaintances  we  have. 
There  is  not  a  large  foreign  population  as  in  the  German  cities 
and  Florence,  Rome  and  Naples,  and  one  has  no  choice  between 
no  society  at  all  and  the  Italian,  which  is  very  corrupt  and  is 
of  two  kinds,  that  which  includes  the  highest  rank  of  nobility, 
who  don't  admit  foreigners,  and  the  other  a  combination  of 
musicians,  artists  and  critics,  and  some  few  counts  and  count- 
esses, which  is  as  corrupt  as  any  society  well  can  be.  I  don't 
know  what  we  would  do  if  Mr.  Clarke  didn't  take  such  an  in- 
terest in  us,  and  he  is  an  old  stick  and  is  gone  now  to  Vienna 
to  stay  three  weeks.  And  in  the  house  the  two  young  ladies 
of  whom  I  have  spoken  manifest  no  desire  to  be  at  all  friendly 
with  us.  They  go  with  the  artist  set  and  are  studying  for 
the  stage,  and  whether  they  are  afraid  we  shall  get  into  their 
set  or  not,  I  don't  know,  but  as  they  are  infidels  I  don't  think 
the  loss  of  their  acquaintance  will  do  us  any  harm. 

The  truth  of  the  matter  is  that  between  music,  French  and 
Italian  I  have  to  work  too  hard  and  don't  have  enough  relaxa- 
tion. Every  time  we  go  out  we  are  spoken  to  by  men,  some  of 
them  old  grey-headed  ones  too.     The  lady  of  the  house  don't 

59 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

speak  anything  but  Italian  and  the  man  speaks  only  a  little  of 
the  worst  French  you  ever  heard.  You  would  be  much  amused 
if  you  could  see  us  take  some  tea  of  an  evening  with  the  land- 
lady. We  talk  in  French,  Italian  and  pantomime,  and  have 
a  great  time  understanding  each  other,  and  sometimes  we  talk 
for  an  hour  or  two,  so  you  can  imagine  we  get  along  somehow. 
The  Court  Ball  takes  place  in  two  or  three  weeks  where 
King  Victor  Emmanuel  will  be  present.  I  suppose  we  could  go 
if  we  had  our  names  put  down  a  long  time  before,  but  one  has 
to  go  in  Court  dress  and  I  should  have  to  get  a  new  one  and 
as  there  is  not  the  least  probability  that  anyone  would  take 
any  notice  of  us,  it  would  hardly  pay.  We  shall  probably 
go  to  one  of  the  Masked  Balls  during  the  Carnival.  The  King 
will  come  here  for  that  they  say,  as  this  is  the  only  place  where 
they  keep  the  three  days  succeeding  Ash  Wednesday.  In 
fact  there  is  more  gaiety  here  than  in  any  other  city  in  Europe 
at  that  time.  During  those  days  they  pelt  everbody  who 
appears  on  the  Corso  with  white  lime. 

I  wouldn't  say  much  about  my  studying  music  here,  for 
although  I  shall  do  my  very  best  to  acquire  as  much  as  possible, 
still  four  months  is  a  very  short  time  to  accomplish  anything 
in,  and  I  found  that  losing  my  practice  while  travelling  made 
a  great  difference,  and  we  shall  probably  be  travelling  six 
months  after  leaving  here  and  shall  consequently  lose  a  great 
deal  for  want  of  practice.  We  have  been  so  busy  we  have  not 
really  seen  any  of  the  sights  of  Milan.  We  are  going  some 
day  soon  to  see  the  King's  Palace,  and  when  the  warm  weather 
comes  shall  go  to  the  Gardens,  and  old  Sforza  Palace  or  Tri- 
umphal Arch  erected  by  the  ist  Napoleon. 

The  place  where  they  drive  and  walk  here  is  called  the 
Bastione,  and  is  a  magnificent  wide  street,  planted  with  trees 
on  both  sides  of  great  height,  and  has  a  low  stone  wall  the 
whole  length,  also  on  both  sides,  and  is  several  miles  long.  It 
is  the  most  delightful  place  to  walk  you  ever  saw. 

I  had  a  letter  from  Father  this  morning  saying  that  Mr. 

Perry  had  arrived  in  Liverpool,  and  they  were  to  go  on  board  in 

60 


ITALY 

three  hours.  I  feel  dreadfully  to  have  him  go  as  long  as  he  was 
on  the  same  continent.  I  would  give  a  good  deal  if  you  could 
look  in  on  us  and  see  what  we  are  doing. 

We  take  turns  in  practising  and  the  only  recreation  we  have 
is  sometimes  to  go  out  walking  together.  We  have  been  getting 
up  earlier  in  the  morning  lately  to  gain  more  time.  The  people 
here  generally  take  their  coffee  and  bread  and  butter  in  bed  at 
half  past  eight  and  then  get  up  and  dress.  I  don't  believe 
the  servant  girl  gets  up  before  half  past  seven  o'clock,  it  is  the 
custom  here,  and  at  12  o'clock  we  have  another  breakfast 
of  meat  or  omelette  and  bread  and  butter  and  wine,  and  at 
half  past  five  dinner. 

I  never  saw  such  a  place  for  dwarfs  and  singing.  All  the 
people  down  to  the  infants  in  arms  sing  in  the  streets  at  night 
and  I  don't  exaggerate  when  I  say  that  one  person  out  of  every 
five  is  a  dwarf.  One  spoke  to  us  and  winked  at  us  on  the 
street  the  other  day  and  we  were  so  indignant.  The  children 
would  think  our  street  was  an  alley  if  they  should  happen  to 
get  into  it — it  is  not  a  bit  wider  than,  if  it  is  as  wide  as,  the 
alley  behind  our  house,  and  is  built  four  or  five  stories  high 
on  each  side,  so  that  the  sun  never  comes  in  more  than  a  half 
hour  during  the  day. 

They  say  there  will  surely  be  an  uprising  in  Paris,  on 
account  of  their  acquitting  Pierre  Bonaparte,  the  people  are 
so  indignant.* 

In  my  letter  this  morning  Father  writes  "the  next  time  I 
travel  I  shall  take  your  Ma  with  me,"  and  I  hope  he'll  con- 
clude to  come  over  next  summer  with  her  and  we'll  all  go  home 
together.  Don't  forget  to  get  Father  to  tell  you  about  the 
verse  in  scripture  that  he  thought  would  be  rather  a  hard 
sentence  on  the  people  of  this  country.  Emma  wants  him 
to  tell  over  the  adventures  to  her  father  and  mother.  I  do 
long  for  some  oysters  so!     I  haven't  seen  one  here. 

With  love  to  all, 

Your  loving  niece,  M.  D.  R. 

*In  July,  1870,  the  Franco-Prussian  War  began!  Doubtless  the  result  of  universal 
political  unrest  such  as  again  brought  on  the  War  in  1914. 

61 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Milan,  Feb.  lot.h,  1870. 
Dear  Father, 

I  received  yesterday  your  letter  from  Liverpool  written 
just  before  you  sailed,  and  thought  as  I  was  just  sending  off 
a  letter  to  Aunt  Mary  would  write  you  a  few  lines  which  you 
will  probably  get  in  New  York.  I  suppose  you  are  now  in 
the  middle  of  the  ocean.  I  don't  exactly  envy  you  but  I  don't 
doubt  you  are  in  pleasanter  company  than  I  am,  and  hope 
you  will  have  a  safe  journey. 

The  weather  continues  very  cold  here,  and  although  now 
that  we  have  got  a  stove  we  manage  to  keep  warm,  we 
really  suffer  when  we  are  taking  our  meals.  An  American  lady 
by  the  name  of  Bonney,  who  was  introduced  to  us  by  Mr. 
Clarke,  called  yesterday  and  we  are  going  with  her  some  day  to 
see  the  king's  palace,  which  is  said  to  be  a  remarkably  handsome 
one.  You  didn't  tell  me  anything  about  Westminster  Abbey. 
Is  it  like  anything  else  we  have  seen.'*  Do  write  from  New 
York  and  tell  me  all  the  people  you  see  and  all  the  news. 

I  am  drinking  beer  now  in  hopes  to  get  some  flesh  on  my 
bones,  and  like  it  much  better  than  wine,  for  I  don't  derive 
much  satisfaction  from  the  food,  as  to  nourishment.  Mr. 
Clarke  has  gone  away  to  Vienna  for  three  weeks,  and  we  are 
more  lonesome  than  ever — said  perhaps  he  would  write  us 
once.  You  ought  to  see  my  hands,  they  look  as  if  I  had  done 
kitchen  work,  for  the  last  week,  and  as  it  is  the  fashion  among 
all  classes  to  have  chilblains  I  expect  to  see  mine  all  swollen 
up  with  them  some  morning  when  I  awake.  I  do  hope  you 
and  mother  will  come  over  next  summer  for  me.  If  mother 
can  make  up  her  mind  to  cross  the  sea,  it  will  do  her  good,  and 
above  all  things  do  take  time  to  write  me  once  a  week  and 
oftener  if  you  can.  The  time  seems  so  long  between.  So 
with  love  to  all  inquiring  friends,  good-bye  my  darling  Father, 

M.  D.  R. 


62 


ITALY 

Milan,  Feb.  20th,  1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Alvira, 

I  have  just  a  half  hour  in  which  to  write  you  a  few  words, 
having  to  take  a  music  lesson  and  after  that  a  French  lesson 
and  after  that  get  ready  to  go  to  the  Opera. 

We  suffer  dreadfully  with  homesickness  here,  being  so 
alone.  Father  is  probably  in  America  now — left  here  five 
weeks  ago.  Milan  is  a  beautiful  city.  The  public  gardens  and 
promenade  are  magnificent.  The  carnival  commences  very 
soon  and  we  are  going  to  one  of  the  Masked  Balls  at  La  Scala, 
the  great  Opera  house.  Also  think  of  going  to  the  Court  Ball. 
The  King  Victor  Emmanuel  gives  this  year,  one  ball  at  Turin, 
one  here  and  one  in  Florence,  at  the  different  Palaces.  We  shall 
go  if  the  Consul  gets  back  from  Vienna  in  time  to  take  us. 

Will  write  you  all  about  it  when  it  is  all  over.  We  find 
the  climate  very  debilitating  and  are  very  weak  from  it.  So 
much  study  keeps  us  confined  to  the  house  and  we  don't  get 
exercise  enough,  which  is  very  necessary  here,  they  say. 
While  we  were  travelling  we  were  on  our  feet  all  day  long 
and  although  we  got  tired  we  slept  well  and  had  good  appetites. 
With  love  to  all  the  family, 

Yr.  aff.  niece,  M.  D.  R. 

Milan,  Feb.  28th,  1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

It  is  now  six  weeks  or  more  since  I  have  heard  a  word 
from  St.  Louis!  All  the  time  that  we  were  travelling  I  used 
to  sit  up  at  night  after  a  hard  day's  work  and  deprived  my- 
self of  sleep  that  I  might  keep  you  informed  as  to  our  where- 
abouts, and  since  we  have  settled  here  I  have  written  regularly 
once  a  week,  but  I  have  made  up  my  mind  not  to  do  it  any 
more  and  shall  not  write  until  I  have  had  some  letters  from 
home,  so  you  may  have  to  wait  some  months  before  you  hear 
anything  from  me. 

Father  must  be  in  New  York  by  this  time,  as  he  left  here 
five  weeks  ago.  If  he  hadn't  taken  pity  on  me  and  written 
as  often  as  he  did  I  don't  know  what  I  should  have  done. 

63 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  climate  proves  very  debilitating  for  us.  I  never  felt 
so  weak  in  my  life.  When  we  first  came  we  set  ourselves  to 
work  too  hard  and  did  not  take  enough  exercise,  and  then  the 
food  is  not  so  strengthening  as  ours,  their  meat  being  cooked 
into  perfect  strings.  They  say  it  is  necessary  here  to  take  a 
great  deal  of  exercise  to  keep  well  and  we  can't  find  time  to 
do  it  and  study  much. 

My  singing  teacher  won"t  let  me  practise  over  two  hours  a 
day,  thinks  it  would  tire  me  too  much  and  weaken  my  voice. 
The  weather  is  gradually  softening — to-day  being  quite  warm. 
This  afternoon  we  went  to  walk  in  the  Public  Gardens,  and 
it  was  quite  like  spring.  I  wish  you  could  see  them.  At  the 
end  of  the  principal  street,  the  Corso  Venizia,  at  the  left  is 
a  beautiful  Park  and  running  along  it  at  right  angles  with 
the  Corso  and  at  a  much  higher  elevation  is  the  Bastione  or 
Rampart,  a  very  long  street  and  very  wide,  and  with  wide 
side  walks  with  four  i*ows  of  tall  trees  running  the  whole 
length,  one  on  each  side  of  each  pavement.  Every  afternoon 
in  pleasant  weather  and  on  Sundays  especially  (Sunday  being 
the  great  day  for  amusement  here)  all  the  elite  of  Milan  drive 
and  walk  in  this  place,  and  it  is  really  a  fine  sight. 

We  are  invited  to  some  private  theatricals  by  the  English 
Consul  this  week — shall  enjoy  them  much.  There  will  be 
three  masked  Balls  at  "La  Scala"  and  we  expect  to  go  to  one 
of  them  in  mask,  but  don't  know  how  we  shall  go  exactly  and 
in  three  weeks  we  are  going.  I  expect  to  go  to  the  Court 
Ball  at  the  Royal  Palace.  Victor  Emmanuel  gives  three  balls 
a  year,  one  at  Turin,  one  here  and  one  at  Florence.  We 
may  go  with  Mr.  Clarke,  but  are  not  certain.  I  don't  want 
to  get  a  new  dress  if  I  can  help  it.  I  can't  wear  my  blue 
silk  because  no  one  can  go  without  a  train.  We  shan't  be 
able  to  talk  with  any  one  so  don't  anticipate  much  pleas- 
ure. Last  evening  our  French  and  Italian  teacher  came  to 
call  on  us  with  her  brother,  who  can't  speak  a  word  of  English, 
and  so  we  had  to  maintain  a  conversation  in  French,  which 
is  a  very  trying  affair.  However,  I  am  determined  to  learn 
to  speak  well,  even  if  it  does  prove  mortifying  sometimes. 

64 


ITALY 

I  have  indulged  in  a  pair  of  jet  earrings  and  put  them  on 
with  a  gold  wire  which  passes  round  behind  the  ear  and  looks 
exactly  as  if  the  ear  were  bored.  I  find  Russia  leather  work 
is  as  cheap  here  as  in  Vienna  and  think  I  shall  get  some 
before  we  leave. 

In  great  haste, 

Yr.  aff.  niece,  M.  D.  R. 

You  must  talk  over  with  Father  and  ascertain  if  I  can  get 
some  bronzes  in  Munich.  It  seems  too  bad  to  come  home 
without  something  nice  for  the  house. 

Milan,  March  9th,    1870. 
Dear  Father, 

I  received  two  or  three  days  ago  your  very  short  letter 
from  New  York,  telling  me  that  you  had  arrived  and  nothing 
more.  Why  couldn't  you  have  written  me  a  good  long  letter 
telling  me  all  about  your  passage  and  about  getting  through 
the  custom  house.''  Lolly  writes  an  amazingly  good  letter  for 
her  age.  It  is  lovely  weather  and  warm  sun  so  we  are  about 
done  with  a  fire. 

I  want  to  tell  you  all  about  the  Carnival  and  the  Balls,  but 
I  hardly  know  where  to  commence.  A  week  ago  to-night  was 
the  first  mask  ball  in  the  Scala.  We  went  with  Mr.  Menni  in 
black  dominoes  trimmed  with  blue,  and  blue  masks  and  met  the 
Heischs  there.  All  the  seats  were  removed  from  the  Parterre 
and  a  flight  of  steps  led  up  to  the  stage.  The  heat  and  crowd 
were  something  terrible  and  all  the  boxes  were  filled  with 
people  in  full  dress  with  the  most  elegant  jewels  and  diamond 
coronets.  There  were  people  in  every  sort  of  costume  that  one 
could  imagine.  Very  soon  after  our  arrival  there  was  a  tourna- 
ment and  the  men  had  feathers  nearly  a  yard  long  sticking  up 
from  the  tops  of  their  hats  and  were  supposed  to  be  mounted 
on  horses  and  they  had  a  drill  of  soldiers  in  linen  jackets  repre- 
senting  the   Austrians   whom   the   Milanese   hate   cordially. 

There  were  women  with  next  to  no  dresses  at  all  on  and  we 
were  very  much  astonished  while  standing  near  a  box  to  see 
a  man  and  girl  come  along  and  the  man  leaped  up  into  the  box 
5  65 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD . 

and  pulled  the  girl  up  after  him.  In  short  we  saw  a  good  many 
sights  that  we  never  saw  before  and  shall  come  from  Europe 
somewhat  wiser  on  some  points  than  before  we  came.  When 
we  came  away  they  were  eating  suppers  in  all  the  boxes — it 
was  as  beautiful  a  sight  as  I  shall  ever  see.  We  did  not  go 
until  one  o'clock  and  returned  at  four. 

All  day  Thursday,  Friday  and  Saturday  the  streets  were 
thronged  with  people  celebrating  the  Carnival.  The  Grand 
Processions  take  place  on  the  Corso  and  are  something  like 
ours,  that  is  there  are  all  the  different  journals,  etc.  represented. 
We  were  much  amused  to  see  an  immense  pair  of  bellows  walk- 
ing along  without  any  visible  support,  and  all  the  newspapers 
were  dressed  as  immense  carrots  with  the  roots  sticking  up  in 
the  air.  One  wagon  came  along  fixed  as  a  pudding  with  cakes 
round  the  edge  of  the  platter.  But  the  best  of  all  was  a  com- 
pany of  men  in  a  wagon  who  represented  the  silk  manufacture. 
The  wagon  was  led  by  six  horses,  each  one  mounted  by  a  man 
completely  hidden  by  a  cocoon,  and  the  wagon  itself  was 
covered  w^th  representations  of  worms  in  the  different  stages, 
and  all  the  men  were  dressed  as  worms,  white  with  black  stripes. 

While  everybody  and  anybody  threw  what  they  call  con- 
fetti, which  are  bonbons  done  up  in  fancy  papers  and  conandoli, 
a  species  of  lime,  which  they  carry  round  in  the  carriages  by 
the  bushel,  each  one  being  armed  with  a  wooden  ladle  with 
which  they  scatter  the  lime  over  everyone  within  reach. 
Besides  the  companies  there  were  private  and  public  carriages 
filled  with  people  in  fancy  costumes,  masked,  who  threw  con- 
fetti and  "conandoli"  as  fast  as  they  could.  Sunday  afternoon 
there  was  a  parade  of  all  the  different  kinds  of  officers  on  horse- 
back, on  the  Bastione,  which  was  very  interesting.  Some  of 
them  had  on  scarlet  coats  and  short  clothes  and  powdered  wigs. 

On  Saturday  night  we  went  to  the  Court  Ball  at  the  King's 
Palace  with  Mr.  Clarke.  We  both  looked  well  and  didn't  feel 
at  all  ashamed  of  ourselves  beside  the  nobility  with  all  their 
jewels.  The  whole  Piazza  in  front  of  the  Palace,  which  is  that 
large  building  to  the  right  of  the  Cathedral  as  you  stand  facing 

66 


ITALY 

it,  was  as  light  as  day,  with  a  thousand  gas  Hghts  erected  for 
the  occasion,  and  filled  with  a  dense  crowd  of  people  through 
which  we  had  to  drive  to  get  inside  of  the  Palace.  Arrived  at 
the  foot  of  the  staircase  which  was  carpeted  down  to  the  car- 
riages, we  found  a  line  of  soldiers  on  each  side,  and  when  we 
reached  the  antechambers,  which  had  also  a  line  of  soldiers 
all  the  way  around  it,  we  had  to  take  off  our  things  there, 
there  being  no  private  dressing  room.  We  then  walked  through 
five  or  six  rooms  before  coming  to  the  grand  salon  where  the 
dancing  was  going  on.  This  was  crowded  and  heated  to  an 
extent  that  was  almost  unendurable,  and  the  gallery  which 
goes  all  around  was  also  crowded  with  people  who  get 
tickets  to  come  in.  The  whole  ceiling  seemed  one  mass  of 
light  on  account  of  the  number  of  chandeliers  all  of  crystal 
and  candles.  They  illumine  here  as  in  France  only  with 
candles  because  they  think  they  give  a  more  becoming  light. 
The  room  was  also  surrounded  with  two  rows  of  cushioned 
stools  for  the  ladies  and  the  place  for  dancing  was  not  large. 

The  King  Victor  Emmanuel  stood  at  one  end  of  the  room 
with  the  Mayor  and  Prince  Amadeo,  the  second  son,  and  a  few 
ladies  were  seated  near  him  of  the  highest  nobility  with  very 
elegant  lace  and  diamonds  but  as  ugly  as  sin.  I  thought  the 
King  very  ugly  and  fierce  looking,  looked  as  if  he  was  bored  to 
death  standing  in  one  corner  with  his  arms  folded.  He  left  the 
ball  early  and  went  away  on  the  cars  that  night.  He  is  not 
liked  at  all  here,  they  think  he  wants  to  take  away  everything 
of  importance  from  Milan.  They  say  he  would  move  the 
Cathedral  to  Turin  if  he  could. 

We  danced  several  times  at  the  ball  with  an  Italian  and 
were  very  much  noticed,  all  the  old  women  were  looking  at  us 
through  their  glasses.  There  were  some  very  fine  people 
there  I  believe  but  can't  remember  their  names,  but  they 
were  not  well  dressed  at  all,  though  they  had  elegant  laces 
and  jewels.  There  was  one  lady  there  with  250  thousand 
dollars'  worth  of  diamonds  on,  but  they  did  not  make  her  look 
any  better.  We  came  away  from  the  Ball  at  half  past  twelve 
on  account  of  its  being  Sunday  morning. 

67 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Last  night  we  went  to  a  little  company  at  the  Hotel 
Grande  Bretagne  given  by  Mrs.  Heisch,  and  had  a  very  nice 
time.  They  expect  to  leave  here  the  last  of  next  week  for  the 
Lakes,  Como  and  Maggiore,  and  will  go  soon  to  England.  We 
have  an  appointment  to  walk  with  Mr.  Clarke,  for  everybody 
says  we  must  not  walk  alone  and  it  is  very  disagreeable,  you 
can  have  no  idea  of  the  wickedness  and  depravity  of  Italian 
men  until  you  have  lived  a  while  in  an  Italian  city — it  is 
terrible.     I  wouldn't  trust  some  girls  here  three  days. 

The  wxather  is  becoming  much  warmer  already  and  the 
gardens  are  quite  green.  I  wish  you  could  have  seen  more  of 
Milan  than  you  did.  I  hope  you  will  keep  me  posted  as  to 
your  intentions  in  regard  to  coming  over  here  next  summer. 
I  hope  and  pray  you  will,  with  mother. 

My  black  silk  dress  is  the  meanest  thing  I  ever  bought,  it 
is  worn  out  all  over.  I  shall  have  to  get  something  before 
I  leave  here. 

I  said  I  shouldn't  write  home  again  for  two  months,  but  I 
find  I  can't  stand  it  to  go  without  any  communication.  I  find 
that  the  gloves  here  in  Milan  are  much  nicer  than  those  w^e  sent 
from  Naples.  You  can  get  five  button  gloves  for  a  dollar  and 
shorter  ones  less,  and  they  are  much  nicer  kid  than  the  others. 
When  I  leave  I  think  I  shall  buy  some  to  carry  with  me. 

With  much  love  to  all. 

Your  afT.  daughter,        M.  D.  R. 

Milan,  March  isth,  1870. 
Not  having  gotten  this  letter  off  yet  I  thought  I  would 
open  it  to  say  a  few  words.  Yesterday  was  the  King's  birthday 
and  we  went  to  hear  the  Te  Deum  performed  in  the  Cathedral. 
The  Prefect  and  all  the  high  civic  officers  were  there  in  full 
dress  but  the  church  was  so  large  that  the  music  made  almost 
no  impression  at  all.  The  square  in  front  was  filled  with 
soldiers  and  the  band  played  splendidly  all  the  time  the  cere- 
mony was  going  on  inside.  When  we  came  out  we  found  the 
Reeps,  those  people  who  were  on  the  steamer  from  Genoa  to 

68 


ITALY 

Naples,  you  remember,  and  who  were  at  the  hotel  at  Naples 
with  us  and  we  are  going  to  see  them  to-night  at  Hotel 
de  Milan  on  the  Via  del  Giardino. 

We  are  having  a  little  more  cold  weather  for  a  few  days  but  it 
is  very  clear  and  bracing.  I  am  almost  destitute  in  the  matter  of 
outside  garments  having  nothing  to  put  on  between  a  cloak  lined 
with  fur  and  a  lace  shawl,  and  my  hat  is  perfectly  gone  up.  No 
one  can  know  what  sort  of  a  feeling  it  is  until  they  come  into  a 
foreign  country  entirely  alone.  Good  bye  and  don't  forget 
to  write  soon. 

Milan,  March  17th,   1870. 
Dear  Grandmother, 

I  am  so  homesick  to-day  I  don't  know  what  to  do  with 
myself,  never  knew  before  what  a  home-baby  I  could  be.  But 
you  can  form  no  idea  of  what  it  is  to  be  so  very  far  away  from 
home  and  friends  and  to  be  among  foreigners  and  people  who 
have  no  ideas  whatever  in  common  with  you  and  never  to  hear 
your  own  language  spoken — it  is  terrible.  We  have  had  de- 
lightful weather  here  until  lately  and  now  it  is  quite  cold  again, 
but  it  cannot  last  long  for  the  trees  are  all  ready  to  leaf  out 
and  before  long  everything  will  be  green.  The  public  gardens 
here  are  very  beautiful  and  almost  every  day  we  go  to  take  a 
walk  there  and  there  is  a  very  beautiful  street  which  runs  all 
around  the  city  at  a  higher  level  and  is  planted  with  four  rows 
of  trees,  the  finest  place  to  ride  and  walk  in  that  I  ever  saw. 
At  first  we  did  not  walk  much  because  we  were  so  anxious  to 
study,  but  we  found  our  health  began  to  suffer  and  since  have 
taken  a  long  walk  almost  every  day. 

I  wrote  all  about  the  Carnival  and  the  two  Balls  we  attended 
in  a  long  letter  home  which  I  suppose  they  will  send  you.  Last 
Monday  we  went  in  the  morning  to  hear  theTeDeum  performed 
in  honor  of  the  King's  birthday  and  in  the  evening  Mr.  Clarke 
came  and  took  us  to  the  large  Cafe  in  theGalleria,  which  was 
illuminated  for  the  occasion.  The  Galleria  is  a  very  large  struc- 
ture built  in  the  shape  of  a  cross  and  is  like  a  covered  street 
and  lined  with  elegant  buildings  three  and  four  stories  high. 

69 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  roof  is  all  in  glass  and  at  the  intersection  is  a  large  dome 
and  on  grand  occasions  this  dome  is  illuminated.  There  are 
several  very  fine  cafes  in  this  Gallcria  where  they  have  free  con- 
certs. You  would  undoubtedly  think  them  very  strange  places. 
At  night  they  are  filled  to  overflowing  with  crowds  of  citizens 
and  officers  seated  at  little  round  tables  and  all  of  them  smok- 
ing, for  the  men  smoke  everywhere.  And  in  the  midst  of  all 
this  noise  and  smoke  we  go  and  take  some  coflfee  or  ices,  but 
never  alone,  always  with  Mr.  Menni  or  Mr.  Clarke. 

We  find  things  very  cheap  here  for  a  nice  pair  of  fine  kid 
boots  with  buttons  I  have  to  pay  only  three  dollars  and  a  half. 
At  home  I  would  have  to  pay  just  twice  as  much.  You  can 
get  beautiful  gloves  here  with  five  buttons  for  3  francs  and 
a  half  and  the  2  buttons  cheaper.  They  are  much  better  than 
the  Naples  gloves  that  I  sent  home. 

I  think  if  you  had  to  sit  down  one  day  to  macaroni  soup, 
then  two  different  kinds  of  meat  cooked  with  garlic  and  onions 
without  a  single  vegetable,  and  chestnuts  for  dessert,  you  would 
think  you  were  well  off  at  present  in  the  way  of  things 
to  eat.  That  was  what  we  found  when  we  first  came  and 
the  change  affected  our  health  so  much  that  we  had  to  tell  them 
we  must  have  beefsteak  rare  and  some  potatoes  and  lately  we 
have  had  cauliflower  and  by  dint  of  telling  them  how  to  cook 
things  we  get  along  better  now,  but  we  have  had  but  one  thing 
for  dessert  since  we  came.  As  regular  as  night  comes  whipped 
cream  and  chestnuts.  We  are  so  tired  of  it.  Yesterday  I 
received  a  few  lines  from  Father  written  with  pencil  to  say  he 
had  arrived  at  home. 

With   much   love. 

Your  aflF.  granddaughter, 

M.  D.  R. 

Milan,  March  27th,  1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary: 

Last  Monday  I  received  yours  and  father's  letters.  I  had 
not  heard  from  any  of  you  for  some  time  and  was  very  glad 

70 


ITALY 

to  get  them.  I  have  not  much  news  to  tell  you,  everything 
goes  on  in  the  same  old  humdrum  way.  I  get  rather  discour- 
aged sometimes  in  thinking  that  I  am  not  accomplishing  very 
much,  although  I  do  as  much  as  I  can,  and  when  I  think  how 
short  a  time  I  can  spend  here  I  can't  expect  to  accomplish 
very  much. 

The  other  day  we  went  with  Mr.  Clarke  to  a  service  held 
in  the  church  of  the  grand  Hospital  in  commemoration  of 
the  burial  of  those  who  were  killed  during  what  is  called  the 
"five  days  of  Milan"  in  1848.  We  couldn't  have  gotten  in 
except  for  Mr.  Clarke  as  the  church  is  very  small  and  there 
were  hundreds  waiting  outside.  The  church  was  round  and 
built  with  a  dome  and  from  the  centre  of  this  dome  to  walls  on 
all  sides  was  arranged  black  drapery  with  silver  stars  and 
wide  silver  border  and  red,  white  and  green  lamps  were  sus- 
pended from  the  centre  of  the  dome.  There  was  one  part  of 
the  service  very  beautiful.  That  was  when  the  band  which 
was  stationed  behind  the  high  altar  played  a  very  sweet  and 
mournful  air  while  the  priest  elevated  the  Host. 

The  other  day  we  had  a  delightful  walk  in  the  country — 
went  out  by  the  Porta  Vittoria.  Father  can  tell  you  that  the 
country  round  Milan  is  nothing  but  a  series  of  fields  hedged  in 
by  ditches  filled  by  running  water  and  planted  on  both  sides 
with  trees.  On  the  edges  of  these  we  found  violets  like  our 
cultivated  violets  and  buttercups  and  daisies  and  wood 
anemones  and  myrtle,  all  wild,  and  all  the  trunks  of  the  trees 
are  covered  with  ivy.  We  came  home  laden  with  flowers  and 
have  pressed  some  for  our  books.  To-morrow  afternoon  we 
are  going  with  the  Heischs  out  in  the  country  somewhere  to 
hear  a  remarkable  echo. 

A  few  days  ago  we  had  a  snow  storm  but  it  very  soon 
ended  and  disappeared  though  the  mountains  are  covered 
almost  down  to  their  bases.  The  view  of  the  mountains 
from  here  is  very  grand.  They  say  from  the  top  of  the 
Cathedral  one  can  see  Mont  Blanc,  so  we  are  going  up  early 
some  morning  to  take  our  breakfast  there,  that  being  the  best 

71 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

time  to  see  the  mountains.  We  went  to  church  this  morning 
as  usual,  and  heard  a  very  good  sermon  from  Mr.  Garrard. 
A  young  American  artist  from  Boston,  who  has  been  singing 
near  Rome  this  winter,  brought  us  some  of  Henry  Ward 
Beecher's  sermons,  which  we  read  this  evening.  At  dinner 
to-day  we  got  into  quite  a  warm  discussion  with  the  Professor 
in  regard  to  observing  the  Sabbath.  As  I  was  obliged  to  talk 
all  the  time  in  the  French  language  I  could  not  say  all  I  wanted 
to,  though  when  I  first  came  here  I  should  have  been  aston- 
ished to  hear  myself  talk  so  fluently.  Has  father  displayed  his 
French  as  yet  for  your  benefit.'*  We  used  to  have  a  great  deal 
of  fun  over  it. 

They  have  some  very  fine  books  here,  beautifully  illus- 
trated, at  very  low  prices.  I  shall  buy  the  "Promessi  Sposi" 
and  "My  Prisons"  by  Silvio  Pellico,  whose  prison  we  saw 
in  Venice  in  the  Ducal  Palace.  They  have  also  Dante's 
three  works,  the  Inferno,  Purgatorio  and  Paradiso,  illustrated 
by  GustaveDore,  but  I  think  I  will  buy  them  in  London  trans- 
lated into  English  by  Longfellow.  By  the  way,  we  heard  that 
Longfellow  is  coming  here  very  soon.  The  Italians  think 
everything  of  his  poetry  and  praise  very  highly  his  translation 
of  Dante. 

I  had  my  pictures  taken  last  week  but  have  not  yet  seen 
the  proofs — as  soon  as  I  get  them  will  send  them  home.*  I  want 
you  to  keep  me  posted  all  the  time  in  regard  to  any  of  the  folks 
coming  over  this  summer.  I  thought  I  wrote  you  what  I  wore 
to  the  reception  in  Paris.  I  wore  my  long  black  silk  and  Roman 
sash  and  my  dress  open  in  the  neck.  The  people  were  dressed 
in  all  sorts  of  ways,  some  in  black  silks^some  in  full  dress  and 
some  in  plain  short  silks  and  some  young  ladies  in  light  short 
silks  and  white  swiss  overdresses.  I  remember  they  had  for 
the  supper,  coffee,  tea  and  chocolate  and  all  kinds  of  cakes  and 
ices  in  fancy  forms.  They  had  a  peculiar  kind  of  soft  cake 
made  with  fruit  and  wine.  In  Rome  I  wore  my  black  silk  with 
my  black  lace  shawl  arranged  as  an  overdress,  and  scarlet 

*The  frontispiece  is  a  reproduction  of  a  miniature  painted  from  one  of  the  photograpiis. 

72 


ITALY 

sash  covered  with  black  lace  and  open  at  the  neck,  and  my 
coral  and  red  flowers. 

I  expect  to  get  a  good  deal  of  wear  out  of  my  light  blue 
silk  this  summer.  My  black  silk  short  dress  is  all  worn  out 
and  I  am  quite  destitute  but  dislike  so  much  to  have  any- 
thing made  here;  I  shall  try  to  get  along  without.  I  bought 
Jimmy  the  other  day  one  of  every  kind  of  stamp  they  use  here 
in  Milan,  and  I  have  asked  Mr.  Clarke  to  save  all  his  stamps 
for  me  and  will  send  them  to  him.  There  is  a  little  boy  here 
in  this  family  who  is  afflicted  with  kleptomania  and  he  is 
getting  so  bad  they  talk  of  sending  him  off  for  a  sailor. 
Don't  forget  to  write  often  and  I  will  do  the  same. 

Your   aff.   niece, 

M.  D.  R. 

Milan,  Monday,  April  4th,  1870. 
Dear  Father  and  Mother, 

I  intended  to  write  to  you  yesterday  but  was  sick  in  bed 
all  day  so  put  it  off.  During  the  day  I  received  your  letters 
telling  me  about  the  party.  It  must  have  been  quite  an  affair 
from  what  you  say.  How  I  wish  I  could  have  been  there! 
You  must  have  had  a  good  many  young  people  there. 

It  is  getting  warm  and  pleasant  here  now  and  the  Americans 
are  beginning  to  come.  Last  Friday  as  Emma  and  I  were  walk- 
ing in  the  street  with  Mr.  Clarke  whom  should  we  meet  but 
the  Mr.  Jones  we  met  at  the  Grand  Hotel  in  Paris,  not  the  one 
we  saw  at  Florence.  Saturday  as  I  was  coming  home  from  a 
lesson  at  Lamperti's  I  met  Conklin  and  brought  him  home 
with  me  and  we  went  to  the  Scala  that  night  to  hear  the  new 
opera,  II  Guarany,  and  he  made  an  appointment  to  go  walking 
with  us  yesterday  afternoon. 

The  other  day  I  bought  you  one  of  those  black  embroidered 
shawls — while  I  was  about  it  I  thought  I  would  get  you  a  hand- 
some one  and  this  is  as  handsome  a  one  as  I  ever  saw.  It  is 
of  very  fine  cashmere,  extra  size  and  the  embroidery  is  very 
fine.    They  wear  lace  on  them  a  good  deal  and  perhaps  that  old 

73 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Puschia  lace  of  yours.  I  paid  60  francs  for  it,  or  1 2  dollars,  but 
that  is  cheap  for  it.  I  am  sorry  my  pictures  are  not  yet  finished 
so  that  I  might  send  them  in  this  letter.  I  expect  to  have  them 
Wednesday  and  will  send  them  immediately.  They  are  the 
best  I  ever  had  taken.  I  think  before  I  go  away  I  shall  order 
some  more  as  it  is  so  difficult  for  me  to  get  a  good  picture. 

There  is  a  good  deal  of  sickness  in  the  city  we  hear.  Mr. 
Jones  told  us  of  a  very  sad  case  of  a  young  lady  from  Boston 
who  died  at  the  hotel  du  Louvre  at  Naples.  She  had  been 
travelling  with  the  Cushings  and  they  had  left  her  there  to  wait 
for  some  others  with  whom  she  expected  to  go  to  Egypt,  and 
while  waiting  she  was  taken  sick  with  fever.  Mr.  Jones  hearing 
of  it  went  to  offer  his  services  but  the  hotel  people  wouldn't  let 
him  in — told  him  she  was  much  better  and  would  soon  be  out. 
Two  days  after  she  was  dead  and  he  heard  that  she  was  deliri- 
ous and  used  a  knife  on  herself.  There  was  also  another  case 
in  Rome.  A  young  gentleman  and  his  three  sisters  from 
Philadelphia  were  there  and  one  of  the  sisters  took  the  fever 
and  died  and  it  aifected  the  brother's  mind,  so  they  couldn't 
induce  him  to  leave  on  account  of  his  own  health  and  in  two 
weeks  from  the  time  his  sister  died,  he  died  also. 

There  is  a  family  from  Boston  by  the  name  of  Bonney 
living  here,  of  whom  I  have  made  mention  before,  I  think. 
The  oldest  daughter  is  very  sick  and  the  doctor  who  attends 
her  says  it  is  a  wonder  to  him  that  all  the  Americans  who 
come  here  don't  die,  that  they  make  too  much  of  a  change 
in  their  diet  and  ways  of  living,  besides  the  change  of  climate. 
However,  now  we  live  very  well.  We  have  excellent  bread 
and  butter  and  good  rare  beefsteak,  nearly  every  day,  and 
chicken  and  salad.  We  told  the  lady  of  the  house  that  we 
couldn't  live  on  the  Italian  dishes  and  since  the  fare  has 
changed  we  are  much  better. 

The  season  in  London  is  from  May  to  August  and  we 
were  saying  perhaps  it  would  be  better  to  go  straight  to 
England  from  here  and  meet  Mr.  Greeley  in  Paris  and  be 
in  London  while  there  is  something  going  on  and  then  come 

74 


ITALY 

back  to  Germany  and  Switzerland  and  Holland  and  do  Paris 
the  last  thing,  sailing  from  Havre.  I  don't  think  it  is  nice 
for  ladies  to  travel  alone.  It  would  be  a  grand  thing  if  I 
could  learn  to  speak  Italian  and  French  and  German  fluently. 
But  although  it  would  be  a  great  advantage  mentally,  I  don't 
feel  as  if  I  could  stay  away  from  home  among  strangers  so  long. 
I  want  you  to  keep  me  posted  all  the  time  in  regard  to  what 
you  intend.  If  mother  comes  don't  bring  more  than  a  small 
trunk  with  a  few  things,  three  or  four  of  your  most  suitable 
dresses,  just  enough  to  wear  out  in  travelling,  and  get  new  things 
to  bring  home.  The  cost  of  extra  baggage  is  enormous  and  in 
travelling  one  doesn't  need  a  variety  of  dresses.  Tell  Jimmy 
and  Lolly  we  have  a  tame  hen  here  who  walks  all  around  the 
table  when  we  are  at  dinner  and  fights  with  the  cat.  The  hen 
flew  over  my  head  one  day  when  it  got  very  angry,  the  cat  is 
afraid  of  it.  Neither  of  the  animals  is  remarkably  neat. 
Wiuh  love  to  all  from 

Your  aff.  daughter,  M.  D.  R. 

Milan,   April    loth,    1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

I  was  so  disappointed  not  to  find  any  letters  on  my  return 
from  church  to-day. 

My  pictures  came  a  few  days  ago  and  I  enclose  two  of  them. 
I  am  very  much  pleased  with  them — think  before  I  leave  shall 
order  another  dozen  though  I  expect  to  have  some  taken  at 
Labitzky's  in  Paris,  a  famous  place.    I  am  so  very  hard  to  take. 

We  have  seen  no  more  Americans  since  last  week.  I  went  to 
church  alone  this  morning  and  found  it  quite  full  of  strangers, 
but  they  were  all  English.  The  week  has  passed  by  without 
anything  occurring.  I  am  trying  to  learn  as  much  as  possible 
while  taking  lessons  in  French  and  Italian.  Have  changed  my 
music  teacher — he  was  too  lazy,  did  not  come  regularly.  As 
yet  have  taken  only  one  lesson  of  my  new  teacher,  Lamperti, 
who  has  the  greatest  reputation  of  any  one  here.  I  bought 
half  a  dozen  tickets  at  twelve  francs  apiece.     Shall  only  use 

75 


EIGHT  JOURNFA  S  ABROAD 

one  a  week  till  they  are  gone  and  after,  Mr.  Menni  thinks  he 
can  get  him  to  give  me  two  a  week  for  twenty  francs.  I  have 
to  pay  a  little  more  because  I  take  my  lessons  alone.  For  his 
ordinary  lessons  he  charges  8  francs  and  they  are  very  strange 
affairs.  From  twelve  o'clock  till  five  every  day  he  is  in  his  par- 
lour and  as  many  as  twenty  people  come  to  take  their  lessons. 
He  takes  them  in  turn  as  they  come  (has  a  lady  to  play  the 
accompaniments)  and  gives  each  lo  or  15  minutes  on  exercises 
and  after  he  is  through  with  the  exercises  he  goes  back  to  the 
first  one  and  gives  them  another  15  minutes  on  cavatinas. 

There  are  men  as  well  as  women  who  take  their  lessons 
and  it  is  a  rendezvous  for  all  the  artists  in  the  city.  They  all 
smoke  and  talk  as  loud  as  they  can  and  walk  up  and  down 
the  room.  For  my  part  I  don't  know  how  they  manage  to 
sing  in  such  a  hubbub.  My  voice  seems  weaker  than  it  used 
to,  perhaps  because  I  am  studying  those  exercises  calculated 
to  make  it  agile  and  flexible.  We  are  very  much  astonished 
to  find  how  the  money  goes,  but  when  I  consider  that  we  are 
paying  for  our  board  and  lessons  and  everything  we  have  it  is 
certainly  cheap. 

I  have  made  a  hat  of  thread  lace  on  a  thin  frame  and  put 
violet  ostrich  tips  on.  The  whole  cost  me  30^  francs  or  8 
dollars  and  a  half,  greenbacks.  Dress  goods  here  in  Milan 
cost  as  much  as  in  America  and  thread  and  Valenciennes 
lace  more.  I  sha'nt  buy  any  dress  while  I  am  here,  tho  I 
am  sadly  in  need  of  one.  Our  washing  is  certainly  very  cheap, 
never  over  25  cts.  a  dozen,  and  when  I  went  to  the  ball,  I  had 
some  things  done  up  that  would  have  cost  fully  two  dollars 
and  I  only  paid  about  60  cents.  The  Carnival  and  the  two  balls 
are  what  took  the  money  out  of  our  pockets. 

I  never  would  advise  any  one  to  come  to  Europe  to  travel 

in  the  winter — summer  or  spring  is  the  time  to  come,  when  one 

can  be  comfortable.   We  could  go  from  England  to  Holland  and 

Germany  and  Switzerland.     It  would  give  us  a  better  chance 

to  see  all  the  countries  in  a  pleasant  season  and  save  carrying 

all  our  baggage  through  England  from  Paris  for  we  should  return 

76 


ITALY 

by  the  French  Hne.  How  I  dread  crossing  the  ocean  again,  it 
seems  as  if  I  could  never  get  up  courage  to  do  it! 

What  do  you  think  about  my  getting  some  coral  earrings 
to  match  my  set.  I  would  like  to  have  some.  It  is  still  quite 
cool  here — not  a  strawberry  as  yet.  I  have  no  doubt  it  is 
warmer  in  St.  Louis  than  here.  The  Prince  Umberto  and 
Princess  Marguerite  are  here  now  and  will  drive  on  the  Bas- 
tione  this  afternoon,  but  we  don't  either  of  us  feel  very  well 
and  don't  think  we'll  go  out. 

Hoping  you  will  like  the  pictures  and  will  write  soon,  I  am, 

Your  aff.  niece,  M.  D.  R. 

Milan,  April  24th,   1870, 

Sunday  Afternoon. 
Dear  Father, 

Your  letter  dated  Feb.  5th  arrived  yesterday  and  very  glad 
I  was  to  get  it,  also  in  the  same  envelope  one  from  Aunt  Mary. 
Since  I  last  wrote  you,  which  was  two  weeks  ago,  I  have  had 
two  letters  from  you.  Last  Sunday  I  got  all  ready  to  write 
in  the  afternoon  when  Mr.  Clarke  came  for  us  to  go  walking 
with  him  on  the  Bastione,  and  I  had  to  give  it  up. 

Last  Sunday  being  Easter  we  went  to  hear  service  in  the 
Cathedral.  It  was  crowded  with  strangers  and  the  music  was 
superb,  two  full  choirs  placed  on  opposite  sides  of  the  high 
altar.  The  Arch-Bishop  performed  the  service  and  it  was 
quite  as  grand  in  its  way  as  the  ceremonies  at  Rome.  You 
remember  probably  the  two  pulpits,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
altar.  It  was  rather  comical  to  hear  the  different  priests  who 
climbed  up  into  one  of  the  pulpits  and  read  out  of  a  book 
for  two  or  three  minutes  and  then  retired,  the  people  not 
paying  the  slightest  attention  to  them,  in  fact  I  don't  think 
half  of  them  knew  they  were  there  until  they  were  gone,  but 
finally  the  Arch  Bishop,  whom  we  could  distinguish  by  his 
wearing  a  jewelled  mitre,  ascended  into  the  pulpit,  accom- 
panied by  a  long  row  of  priests  and  candles  and  preached  a 
sermon  in  Italian.    When  the  Host  was  elevated  and  all  the 

77 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


people  were  on  their  knees  the  great  bell  of  the  Cathedral  was 
rung  and  one  of  the  choir  with  a  magnificent  baritone  voice 
sang  a  solo.      I  never  heard  anything  so  beautiful. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  up  into  the  public  gardens 
and  heard  the  band  play  and  then  on  to  the  Bastione  where 
we  walked  until  the  Princess  Marguerite  arrived.  She  is  a 
daughter  of  the  Duchess  of  Genoa  and  has  married  the  oldest 
son  of  Victor  Emmanuel,  Principe  Umberto,  and  will  be  future 
Queen  of  Italy.  When  she  made  her  appearance  on  the  Bas- 
tione she  had  one  outrider  on  horseback,  who  went  before  the 
carriage.  She  was  dressed  in  a  suit  of  wine-colored  velvet  and 
bonnet  to  match  and  the  footmen  and  trappings  of  the  horses 
were  in  scarlet.    A  lady  and  gentleman  of  her  suite  were  with 

her,  while  her  husband,  who  never 
is  seen  with  her,  was  in  another 
carriage  with  an  officer.  They 
have  only  been  married  one  year. 
Sunday  evening  while  we  were 
sitting  quietly  in  our  room  who 
should  come  in  but  Mr.  Clarke 
and  Gen.  Fiske.  It  seems  Mr. 
Clarke  was  calling  at  the  Hotel 
Cavour  and  was  accidentally  in- 
troduced to  Gen.  Fiske,  who  told 
him  he  had  been  hunting  all  day 
for  two  American  young  ladies 
and  mentioned  our  names,  and 
Mr.  Clarke  brought  him  immedi- 
ately to  the  house.  Wewere  so  de- 
lighted to  see  him  and  he  seemed 
equally  delighted  to  see  us  and  in- 
vited us  to  go  with  his  party  the  next  day  to  Lake  Como,  and 
we  accepted.  So  at  four  o'clock  the  next  morning  he  came  for 
us  and  we  started  off  in  great  spirits.  There  were  Major  Sealy 
of  New  York,  and  Mr.  Murphy,  the  Consul  General  at  Frank- 
fort, Germany.    The  latter's  wife  was  to  have  gone  but  was  sick. 

78 


PRINCESS  MARGUERITE 
Now  Dowager  Queen  of  Italy 


ITALY 

After  an  hour  and  a  half  by  rail  we  arrived  at  Camerlata, 
and  the  Courier  got  places  for  the  General,  Emma  and  myself 
in  the  banquette  of  the  diligence,  in  which  we  went  to  Como, 
a  delightful  ride.  As  the  mountains  opened  out  before  us 
they  seemed  like  a  high  impenetrable  wall.  As  we  rode  into 
the  town  we  passed  under  a  remarkable  old  gateway  quite 
ancient  in  appearance  and  higher  than  any  of  the  houses  in 
the  town.  The  openings  were  open  arches  and  the  whole 
overgrown  with  moss  and  weeds.  In  passing  through  the 
town  we  saw  the  Cathedral,  a  very  beautiful  church  in 
white  marble,  covered  with  elaborate  carvings  of  angels  and 
saints.  Arriving  at  the  Lake  we  all  went  on  board  the  steamer 
lying  at  the  wharf  and  in  a  few  minutes  were  off.  We  were 
quite  a  jolly  party,  all  of  us  except  Major  Sealy  being  quite 
lively  and  the  courier  not  the  least  so. 

The  Lake  is  more  like  a  river  than  a  lake  in  appearance, 
being  quite  narrow — nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the 
shores,  mountains  rising  in  every  direction  abruptly  from  the 
water,  and  at  every  turn  we  could  see  the  more  distant  and 
higher  ones  covered  with  snow,  while  everything  around  us  was 
of  a  vivid  green.  The  shores  were  lined  with  beautiful  villas 
and  groves  and  walks.  One  had  a  stone  wall  coming  out  into 
the  water  in  a  curve  and  mounted  with  statues.  After  about 
an  hour  and  a  half  we  arrived  at  the  town  of  Cadenabbia,  and 
took  our  breakfast  there. 

In  the  meantime  we  had  made  the  acquaintance  of  two 
American  gentlemen  on  the  boat.  They  turned  out  to  be  two 
rebel  officers  from  Savannah.  General  Fiske  knew  the  father  of 
one  of  them  and  said  they  were  a  very  fine  family  and  he  was 
a  Union  man.  They  were  going  to  make  the  tour  of  the  lakes 
Lugano,  Maggiore  and  Como,  had  just  returned  from  Con- 
stantinople and  Athens.  We  had  a  nice  breakfast  at  Caden- 
abbia and  then  visited  the  villa  of  Princess  Carlotta.  There 
we  found  a  Magdalen  by  Canova  and  a  bas-relief  by  Thorwald- 
sen  in  marble,  executed  at  immense  cost — also  some  pictures 
that  I  did  not  much  like. 

79 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  gardens  were  very  beautiful — saw  quantities  of  large 
camellia  trees,  one  mass  of  exquisite  flowers.  After  that  we 
took  a  boat  and  went  to  the  town  of  Bellaggio  to  visit  the  villa 
Serbelloni.  We  had  quite  a  climb  through  the  town  and  after 
we  reached  the  grounds  we  had  to  make  a  very  steep  ascent 
to  get  a  view  of  the  three  Lakes.  In  all  our  travels  I  never 
have  seen  anything  equal  to  Lake  Como  in  beauty.  The  water 
looked  like  velvet  and  the  outlines  of  the  mountains  against 
the  sky  were  too  beautiful  for  my  pen  to  do  justice  to  them. 
At  Bellaggio  they  have  work  in  olive  wood  to  sell.  We  bought 
some  of  those  travelling  bottles  in  wood  cases  for  one  and  two 
francs  apiece,  and  about  two  o'clock  took  the  steamboat  back 
to  Como  and  arrived  in  Milan  at  about  six  o'clock.  The  two 
young  Americans  came  back  with  us  and  General  Fiske  went 
away  the  next  morning,  but  they  stayed  until  Friday  morning, 
when  they  left  for  Spain.  While  they  were  here  we  went  with 
them  to  the  French  Comedy  and  saw  the  Princess  there.  They 
expect  to  be  in  Switzerland  and  Germany  next  summer  and 
we  may  possibly  meet  them. 

Gen.  Fiske  was  very  kind  and  generous.  He  would  not  let 
us  pay  any  of  our  expenses  for  the  trip  to  Lake  Como,  although 
we  insisted.  I  hope  you  will  call  and  thank  him  immediately 
on  his  return;  there  are  not  many  men  who  would  have  done 
it,  however  rich  they  might  be.  He  has  bought  the  greatest 
quantities  of  everything  at  every  place  he  visited  and  sends 
the  boxes  continually  to  Paris. 

A  Russian  and  his  wife  who  are  boarding  here  now  have 

been  telling  us  what  a  delightful  trip  one  can  make  to  St. 

Petersburg  and  back  in  three  weeks,  and  I  do  hope  you  and 

mother  will  come  over.    We  are  inclined  to  think  it  w^ould  be 

better  to  go  to  England  first  instead  of  putting  it  off  until  the 

last  thing.    I  don't  see  why  you  can't  come  over  this  year;  as 

the  summer  is  the  pleasantest  time  to  be  over  here  I  should 

think  you  had  better  come  in  June,  or  if  not,  I  can  travel  until 

you  do  come.     The  trip  we  have  been  talking  of  is  to  go  by 

steamboat  after  visiting  England  and  Scotland  to  Stockholm 

80 


ITALY 

and  from  thence  touching  at  several  ports  to  St.  Petersburg 
and  to  Moscow,  then  back  to  St.  Petersburg  again  and  by 
rail  to  Konigsberg  and  Berlin.  This  man  says  there  is  no 
country  in  Europe  to  compare  to  Sweden  and  for  my  part  I 
would  rather  see  some  things  that  all  the  world  has  not  seen 
than  to  explore  thoroughly  every  little  town  in  Germany  and 
Italy.  For  instance  in  visiting  Switzerland  one  can  see  just 
as  much  in  two  weeks  as  in  four,  for  there  is  little  variety  in 
the  scenery. 

We  were  the  biggest  fools  ever  known  not  to  have  gone 
to  Constantinople  and  Greece.  We  could  have  gone  from 
Trieste  there  and  back  in  two  weeks  and  we  could  go  the  route 
I  have  described  on  leaving  England,  by  Stockholm  and  St. 
Petersburg,  to  Moscow  and  through  Caucasia  to  Constanti- 
nople, to  Vienna,  Athens  and  to  Trieste  in  six  weeks.  I  would 
give  anything  to  be  able  to  make  these  trips.  I  don't  see  why 
it  isn't  possible.     Would  much  rather  see  less  of  Europe. 

I  think  I  have  heard  from  Frank  Rosengarten  several  times. 
He  sails  from  Liverpool  for  America  the  30th  of  this  month, 
he  wrote  me.  I  wish  you  would  send  to  his  father  for  me  the 
value  of  46  francs  in  greenbacks,  for  those  Roman  scarfs  he 
bought  for  me.  It  will  be  eleven  dollars  and  a  half,  I  think. 
I  should  think  it  would  not  be  much  longer  before  we  leave 
here,  about  five  weeks.  If  we  don't  go  to  Paris  first  I  shall 
send  and  have  a  suit  made,  or  if  I  do  go  there  shall  buy  it 
myself,  a  black  silk  one,  my  old  one  is  completely  gone. 

It  is  a  hard  life  to  live  here  tho  one  doesn't  mind  it  so  much 
except  when  one  gets  homesick. 

With  much  love  to  you  all  and  to  all  inquiring  friends. 
Your  loving  daughter,  M.  D.  R. 

Milan,  May  15th,   1870. 
Dear  Lolly; 

This  morning  I  went  to  church  as  usual  but  saw  no  Ameri- 
cans, all  the  strangers  being  English.  Mr.  Garrard  is  not  well 
enough  to  preach,  although  he  insists  upon  coming  to  church, 

6  81 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  tries  to  put  on  his  robes  and  enter  the  chancel,  but  the 
doctor  will  not  allow  it.  We  sent  him  a  bouquet  about  a  week 
ago.  You  can  buy  a  bouquet  as  large  around  as  a  large  dining 
plate  for  one  franc.  It  is  astonishing  how  cheap  flowers  are. 
You  will  think  when  I  tell  you  how  cheap  things  are  that  it  is 
astonishing  how  I  manage  to  spend  so  much  money.  It  is 
because  I  have  to  pay  for  everything  and  the  demand  is  con- 
stant, some  little  thing  being  necessary  every  day.  I  am  tak- 
ing now  three  singing  lessons  a  week  for  which  I  pay  12  francs 
the  lesson.  A  German  lady  who  has  been  singing  in  Berlin 
for  several  years  boards  in  the  same  house  with  us,  and  as  she 
takes  also  three  lessons  a  week  we  manage  to  go  every  day 
together  and  take  an  hour  lesson,  so  I  take  one  half-hour  and 
she  the  other,  much  better  for  both  of  us  as  we  really  get  the 
value  of  six  lessons  instead  of  three.  Lamperti  keeps  me  en- 
tirely upon  the  exercises  so  I  am  not  learninganything  new  but 
intend  to  take  a  few  songs  just  before  I  go.  I  think  I  shall  buy 
some  operas  here,  but  they  will  weigh  down  my  trunk  amaz- 
ingly. Don't  know  whether  I  shall  buy  any  Italian  books  or 
not,  have  not  yet  been  to  price  them.  I  would  rather  have  such 
things  as  those  for  souvenirs  of  Europe  than  merely  clothes. 

The  other  day  Mad.  Griin,  the  German  lady  I  spoke  of, 
and  I  went  into  a  little  vegetable  store  to  buy  some  eggs  to 
drink  before  going  to  our  music  lesson,  and  were  much  amused 
to  see  an  image  of  the  Virgin  with  a  nasty  little  oil  lamp  burn- 
ing before  it  and  beside  it  anything  but  an  elegant  picture  of 
a  danseuse.  They  are  the  most  inconsistent  people  here,  you 
would  think  from  the  number  of  the  Madonnas  and  the  faith- 
fulness with  which  they  keep  the  lamps  burning  before  them 
that  they  were  the  most  religious  people  in  the  world,  whereas 
they  haven't  a  single  idea  of  religion. 

We  took  one  day  of  last  week  to  go  to  Monza  to  see  the 

King's  park.   We  left  here  at  one  o'clock  and  drove  the  distance, 

ten  miles,  arriving  at  the  town  at  about  half  past  2,  and  drove 

through  the  park  for  an  hour  or  so.    The  Prince  and  Princess 

spend  a  few  weeks  here  every  summer  at  a  castle  near  the  park. 

82 


ITALY 

The  public  park  Is  very  large  and  beautiful,  nothing  more  than 
a  series  of  woods  cultivated  and  kept  In  perfect  order.  The  turf 
was  dotted  with  forget-me-not  and  all  sorts  of  beautiful  wild 
flowers.  And  there  were  beautiful  little  streams  and  rustic 
bridges.  It  all  looked  so  delightful  and  secluded  that  Emma 
and  I  and  little  Rose  from  the  house,  whom  we  took  with  us, 
took  off  our  shoes  and  stockings  and  went  In  wading.  I 
guess  there  are  not  many  people  who  have  done  that  In  a 
King's  Park. 

At  live  o'clock  we  took  our  dinner  In  the  garden  of  an 
albergo.  In  the  midst  of  the  park,  and  then  had  a  delightful 
ride  home  through  the  twilight.  As  we  were  riding  along  who 
should  we  meet  but  the  Prince  on  horseback  and  all  alone, 
going  out  to  Monza  to  see  the  Bonognlnl,  a  lady  friend  for 
whom  he  neglects  his  wife  shamefully,  although  she  Is  very 
pretty  and  they  have  only  been  married  a  year. 

We  made  a  desperate  effort  Friday  and  went  to  the  Ambro- 
sian  Library,  where  we  saw  a  few  line  paintings  and  quantities 
of  sketches  by  all  the  celebrated  painters.  Among  the  cartoons 
was  one  of  Raphael's  of  the  School  of  Athens.  We  saw  the 
correspondence  of  Lucretia  Borgia  and  Cardinal  Bunbo,  also 
letters  by  Cardinal  Borromeo  and  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  and  some 
very  valuable  illuminated  volumes  in  Latin  and  Hebrew,  also 
two  books  of  the  Koran.  Attached  to  Lucretia  Borgia's  letters 
was  a  lock  of  her  hair,  very  light,  and  of  a  dull  yellow  tinge,  per- 
haps in  the  sunlight  it  may  be  golden,  but  there  it  appeared 
of  a  dull  tinge,  though  pretty. 

Mr.  Clarke  invited  us  the  other  day  to  coffee  at  his  house, 
also  Mad.  Griin  and  her  husband  who  is  a  Russian,  and  says  he 
Is  going  to  ask  us  some  time  to  eat  strawberries.  You  would 
laugh  if  you  could  see  the  berries  they  have  here.  They  are 
about  the  size  of  peas  and  have  not  nearly  so  much  flavor  as 
ours,  and  they  eat  them  here  some  with  lemon  juice  and  sugar 
and  others  with  wine.  They  look  at  us  in  astonishment  when 
we  put  sugar  and  cream  on  them. 

We  had  thought  some  of  going  to  Stuttgart  if  It  got  too 

83 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

warm  here.  I  suppose  by  this  time  you  have  made  up  your 
minds  whether  you  will  come  or  not.  I  shall  hope  to  hear  soon. 
If  you  do  not  I  don't  want  to  come  home.  I  can  live  cheaper 
here  than  at  home  and  can  be  learning  so  much  more — besides 
it  is  better  for  my  health  to  live  as  quietly  as  we  have  done  this 
winter.  Milan  is  looking  very  beautiful  now,  the  public  gar- 
dens are  one  mass  of  flowers  and  the  Bastione  is  delightfully 
shaded.  We  often  go  out  there  and  sit  down  and  look  at  the 
mountains,  which,  although  it  is  hot  here,  are  covered  with 
snow  and  make  one  cool  just  to  look  at  them.  The  number 
of  babies  that  I  hear  accounts  of  is  something  prodigious. 

Give  my  love  to  all  my  friends.  I  believe  it  is  easier  to 
spend  five  francs  than  a  dollar,  for  they  do  fly  away  so.  I 
hardly  expect  to  hear  from  you  after  you  get  this,  in  Milan, 
for  we  shall  probably  have  left.  However  you  might  hazard 
writing  once  more  to  Ulrich. 

With  love  to  all  inquiring  friends,  and  much  love  for  you 
all,  I  am.  Your  aff.  sister,  M.  D.  R. 

Have  you  kept  all  my  letters.^  The  stamps  are  for  Jimmy 
and  the  four  together  are  Russian. 

The  other  day  Emma  and  I  went  up  on  the  Bastione  and 
sat  down  on  one  of  the  benches  there,  and  very  soon  the  Prin- 
cess drove  past.  In  the  course  of  a  half  an  hour  she  passed 
many  times  and  seeing  that  we  were  not  Italians  she  seemed 
to  notice  us  and  called  the  attention  of  the  lady  and  gentleman 
who  were  with  her  to  us.  A  few  days  after  we  saw  her  again 
and  she  smiled  at  us  and  they  all  looked  after  us.  She  is  always 
with  the  same  gentleman  and  lady.  I  wouldn't  change  places 
with  her  for  a  good  deal. 

Milan,  May   i8th,    1870. 
Dear  Mother, 

I  have  time  only  to  write  a  few  words.  Bring  your  black 
satin,  you  may  have  an  opportunity  to  wear  it.  Don't  buy  a 
single  thing  in  America.  Anything  will  do  to  come  over  on  the 
steamer  and  you  can  buy  a  travelling  dress  in  Paris  for  one- 

84 


ITALY 

half  of  what  you  can  get  It  at  home.  Of  all  things  don't  get  a 
waterproof  suit,  they  are  the  meanest  things  in  the  world. 
They  stick  to  everything  and  catch  all  the  dust  and  dirt.  As 
to  the  wrapper,  I  scarcely  wore  mine  at  all  on  the  steamer. 
I  have  worn  it  more  since  I  came  here  when  I  have  been  sick, 
but  I  should  think  there  would  be  very  little  use  for  one  in  the 
summer.  On  the  steamer  all  that  I  wore  was  my  suit  of  flannel 
and  flannel  petticoat  and  then  put  one  of  the  blankets  over 
me  and  suflFered  more  at  night  with  heat  and  want  of  air  than 
I  did  with  cold,  but  in  the  day  time  it  was  difficult  to  keep 
warm.  A  waterproof  cloak  serves  for  a  rainy  day.  For  Switz- 
erland one  needs  only  two  dresses,  one  to  ride  on  the  mules 
and  the  other  to  dress  up  in.  Take  my  advice  and  don't  get 
anything  but  shoes  to  bring  with  you  and  bring  enough  of  them 
and  comfortable  ones.  I  should  think  you  had  better  get  a 
hat  in  Paris  to  travel  in.  It  will  be  more  comfortable  and  it 
is  pretty  warm  work  to  go  sightseeing  all  day.  I  feel  quite 
sick  to-day.  It  is  only  the  i8th  of  May  and  yet  the  heat  is 
like  with  us  in  July.  We  find  our  rooms  very  warm.  I  don't 
know  if  we  can  stand  it  another  month  but  will  try.  The 
missionary  that  father  writes  about  is  this  very  Mr.  Clarke 
himself.  He  used  to  be  a  missionary  at  Constantinople  also. 
Don't  bring  any  more  stuff  with  you  than  you  can  help.  I 
had  to  leave  half  of  mine  in  Paris. 

In  great  haste. 

Your  aff.   daughter, 

M.  D.  R. 


SWITZERLAND 

Challly,  Lausanne,  Switzerland 
June  yth,    1870. 
La  Rosiere. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary, 

You  will  be  rather  astonished  to  find  that  we  have  changed 
quarters,  but  the  heat  became  intolerable  in  Milan  so  that  we 
couldn't  sleep  at  night  and  lost  our  appetites  so  we  concluded 
to  come  here,  where  Mary  Perry  spent  some  time  last  fall  on 
the  shore  of  Lake  Geneva,  not  far  from  the  Paris  route,  so  we 
can  be  ready  to  start  for  Paris  on  short  notice.  I  have  already 
sent  our  address  to  Bowles  and  Bros.,  so  that  father  will  find 
it  as  soon  as  he  arrives. 

We  left  Milan  the  last  Sunday  night  of  May.  Mr.  Clarke, 
Mde.  Griin  and  Mr.  Sadler  and  two  Italian  Professors,  Patuzzi 
and  Castelfranco,  came  to  see  us  off.  We  felt  quite  badly  when 
it  came  to  leaving  as  we  had  been  there  so  long,  we  had  begun 
to  feel  quite  at  home.  Another  Italian  by  the  name  of 
Garavaglia  whom  we  knew  quite  well  went  to  Turin  at  the 
same  time  we  did.  In  the  afternoon  he  sent  us  each  an 
enormous  bouquet  with  small  notes  in  English.  We  laughed 
over  them  until  we  cried,  so  you  can  imagine  they  were  amusing. 

We  arrived  at  Turin  that  night  at  eleven  o'clock  and 
went  to  the  Hotel  Trombetta,  and  the  next  morning  early 
started  off  to  see  the  sights  with  Mr.  Garavaglia.  At  break- 
fast we  had  made  up  our  minds  to  go  to  the  church  of  La 
Superga,  situated  at  some  distance  from  Turin,  on  the  top 
of  a  high  hill  or  rather  mountain.  Underneath  this  church 
are  the  tombs  of  all  the  Kings  of  Savoy.    So  we  took  a  carriage 

86 


SWITZERLAND 

at  about  eleven  o'clock,  after  having  walked  through  some  of 
the  principal  streets,  and  drove  to  the  foot  of  the  hill.  Mr.  G. 
had  informed  us  that  it  was  necessary  to  go  on  "aback,"  as 
he  expressed,  so  we  were  quite  prepared  to  see  the  three  don- 
keys awaiting  us.  They  are  such  comical  objects,  and  one  does 
look  so  funny  on  them.  I  think  you  would  all  have  laughed 
well  if  you  could  have  seen  us  start  off,  Indian  file,  each  one 
with  an  enormous  sun  umbrella.  Mr.  G.  expresses  himself  so 
comically  with  his  Italian  idioms  put  into  English  words,  that 
it  is  utterly  impossible  to  keep  from  laughing  in  his  face.  I 
have  as  much  control  of  my  risibles  as  any  one  and  I  couldn't 
abstain.  When  we  get  home  E.  and  I  will  have  some  rich 
things  to  tell  you. 

By  the  way  I  long  to  see  Mother  on  a  donkey!  It  was  a 
very  hot  day  that  we  made  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  and  it  is 
a  great  wonder  that  we  did  not  take  terrible  colds,  for  on  de- 
scending into  the  vaults  we  found  it  so  cold  that  we  could  see  our 
breath  distinctly.  The  centre  tomb  is  magnificent.  It  is  here 
that  the  last  king  is  always  kept  until  his  successor  dies,  then  he 
is  removed  into  a  side  tomb  to  make  way  for  the  new  one — so  we 
go!  Victor  Emmanuel  was  king  of  Savoy  before  he  was  made 
King  of  Italy,  and  will  be  buried  here  also.  They  say  he  never 
has  entered  the  place  but  once  on  the  occasion  of  his  father's 
death. 

The  church  itself  is  built  in  circular  form  with  a  dome  and  is 
quite  rich  in  marbles.  They  used  to  keep  a  great  many  priests 
here  but  Victor  Emmanuel,  not  being  sufficiently  fond  of  them 
to  be  willing  to  maintain  the  expense,  has  cleaned  them  all  out 
except  two.  There  is  a  chapel  where  they  say  the  priests  used 
to  assemble  and  one  of  them  would  go  up  into  the  pulpit  and 
address  them  on  the  subject  of  the  dinner  for  that  day  and 
advise  them  to  eat,  drink  and  be  merry.  When  we  got  down 
to  the  foot  of  the  hill  before  Emma  could  get  off  her  donkey 
it  commenced  to  roll  and  kick  up  such  a  dust! 

Coming  back  to  Turin,  in  the  afternoon  we  went  into  the 
Cathedral,  not  by  any  means  remarkable.    The  royal  chapel  is 

87 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

separated  from  the  church  by  a  glass  partition,  behind  the  high 
altar.  We  were  obliged  to  go  through  the  royal  palace  to  enter 
it.  It  is  quite  imposing  but  gloomy,  being  finished  all  in  black 
and  gold.  Inside  a  glass  box  kept  in  the  grand  altar,  is  a  cloth 
bearing  the  impression  of  the  body  of  our  Savior.  Afterwards 
we  visited  the  apartments  of  the  royal  palace,  ascending  by 
means  of  a  magnificent  staircase.  On  our  way  out  we  met  the 
Prince  Amadeo,  face  to  face,  with  two  gentlemen  of  his  suite. 
The  drums  beat  every  time  he  enters  or  goes  out  of  the 
Palace. 

At  dinner  that  day  rather  an  amusing  circumstanceoccurred. 
There  were  two  gentlemen  sitting  opposite  us  who  didn't  hesi- 
tate to  criticize  us  quite  freely,  thinking  themselves  perfectly 
safe,  as  they  were  speaking  Piedmontese,  a  dialect  which 
strangers  don't  understand.  But  Mr.  Garavaglia  happened  to 
be  perfectly  familiar  with  it  and  so  after  they  had  discussed  us 
at  length  he  called  a  waiter  and  spoke  to  him  in  Piedmontese. 
The  amazement  depicted  on  the  countenances  of  those  men  was 
too  comical.  They  didn't  try  to  conceal  their  consternation 
but  said,  "Oh  what  shall  we  do — he  understands  Milanese!" 
After  dinner  we  drove  an  hour  or  so  on  the  Corso,  a  long  street 
bounding  a  square  and  shaded  on  both  sides  with  tall  trees. 
The  Corso  in  summer  is  from  six  to  nine,  but  in  the  winter 
from  3   until  dinner. 

That  evening  as  we  were  in  the  hall  settling  up  our 
accounts  we  made  the  acquaintance  of  two  Chinese.  There 
was  an  embassy  of  them,  staying  at  that  hotel,  travelling 
round  the  world.  They  passed  us  several  times  in  the  hall 
and  finally  one  of  them  stopped  and  smiled  at  us  and 
we  were  so  much  amused  at  his  appearance  that  we  smiled 
too.  He  was  dressed  in  rich  blue  and  gray  silk  and  his  hair 
all  shaved  off  except  at  the  back  and  that  was  braided  in  a  long 
queue  which  hung  down  almost  to  his  feet.  Seeing  a  flower 
in  Emma's  hands  he  said  "flower"  and  we  were  quite  amazed 
to  hear  him  speak  English.  Then  another  came  up  and  we 
managed  to  find  out  that  they  had  been  in  America  and  liked 


SWITZERLAND 

it  better  than  any  other  country.  They  said  also  "America — 
mademoiselles — very  well,"  with  a  vigorous  affirmative  nod, 
which  was  meant  to  convey  more  than  the  words  expressed. 
They  wrote  their  names  for  us,  Fuyeh  and  Rworan,  and  asked 
us  for  our  pictures.  They  said  theirs  were  in  their  trunks 
locked  up  and  down  stairs  and  that  they  would  give  them  to 
us  the  next  morning,  but  we  told  them  we  were  going  away  too 
early. 

We  left  Turin  early  Tuesday  morning,  Mr.  G.  having 
accompanied  us  to  the  depot,  but  after  we  had  said  good-bye 
to  him  and  the  train  started  out  of  the  depot,  we  began  to  feel 
that  we  were  pretty  well  alone,  with  nobody  but  ourselves  to 
depend  on.  Consequently  we  pulled  long  faces  and  sat  up  very 
stiff  and  straight  with  an  expression  which  was  intended  to 
strike  dismay  into  the  hearts  of  all  (men)  beholders.  It  was 
sufficient  for  all  but  one — he,  in  spite  of  our  ferocious  appear- 
ance, continued  to  smile  amiably  upon  us  during  the  two  hours' 
ride  to  Susa.  There  was  also  in  the  carriage  a  very  amusing 
French  woman  who  informed  us  that  crossing  Mt.  Cenis  was 
the  worst  thing  in  the  world  and  that  she  suffered  terribly  with 
seasickness,  in  consequence  of  which  she  had  prepared  herself 
with  a  big  hood  and  already,  in  anticipation  of  the  ascent,  she 
began  to  cough  suspiciously  out  of  the  window.  The  amiable 
gentleman  alluded  to  now  began  to  render  himself  still  more 
so  by  attempting  to  open  a  conversation  with  me  in  reference 
to  travelling  in  general — it  is  unnecessary  to  say  he  was  not 
successful. 

We  were  now  arrived  at  Susa  and  went  into  the  waiting 
room  to  eat  the  lunch  we  had  brought  with  us  from  Turin. 
The  "amiable"  stationed  himself  about  two  feet  in  front  of 
us  and  we  were  really  beginning  to  fear  he  would  prove  a 
nuisance  when  the  door  opened  and  who  should  enter  but 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bishop,  who  had  been  at  the  same  hotel  with 
us  in  Rome.  We  were  glad  enough  to  see  them  and  to  have 
the  pleasure  of  their  company  as  far  as  Aix-les-Bains,  where 
they  were  going.    There  were  too  many  people  to  be  accommo- 

89 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

dated  in  the  train  and  we  were  obliged  to  wait  a  half  an  hour  for 
them  to  put  on  another  train  and  after  a  great  deal  of  sputtering 
about  first-class  and  second-class,  we  were  at  last  put  into  a 
first-class  car  and  off  we  started.  We  were  immensely  pleased 
with  the  scenery  for  about  four  stations,  and  then,  beginning 
to  feel  rather  queer,  nothing  more,  there  was  a  perceptible 
diminution  in  the  enthusiasm  of  the  party,  we  settled  down 
into  contenting  ourselves  with  admiring  the  constancy  with 
w'hich  an  old  French  lady  and  gentleman  took  their  potations 
of  eau  Sucre  as  we  issued  from  each  tunnel  at  the  top  of  the 
mountain. 

For  at  least  two  hours  on  the  top  the  railway  is  covered 
to  prevent  the  avalanches  which  are  constantly  falling  from 
injuring  the  road.  There  was  also  in  the  car  a  Swiss  woman 
who  had  paid  second-class  but  was  put  in  our  car, — as  the 
only  available  space,  whose  head  was  a  little  turned  by  her 
sudden  elevation  in  rank,  and  she  held  forth  to  an  admiring 
but  small  audience  on  the  beauties  of  Alpine  scenery.  I  think 
most  of  us  were  oblivious  to  everything  but  our  own  feelings 
until  we  reached  St.  Michele.  There  just  as  we  were  about 
taking  the  train  for  Geneva  I  encountered  some  Lowell  friends, 
the  Whitneys,  who  were  travelling  with  a  party  of  Bostonians. 
I  had  only  time  to  say  good-morning  and  ask  how  they  were 
and  they  were  off. 

Arrived  at  Aix-les-Bains,  Mr.  Bishop  thought  it  advisable 
for  us  to  get  into  a  carriage  especially  for  ladies,  as  the  "ami- 
able" was  still  to  be  seen  lurking  around.  We  had  still  another 
change  to  make  before  arriving  at  Geneva,  which  place  we 
reached  at  nine  o'clock. 

We  had  been  much  amused  all  day  at  seeing  a  most  awkward 
youth  with  a  fat  old  gentleman,  whom  we  supposed  was  his 
father  (he  wore  a  most  extraordinary  red  and  white  cap),  but 
the  former  with  all  his  awkwardness  had  a  pleasant,  intelligent 
face  that  we  took  rather  a  fancy  to.  When  we  arrived  at  Geneva 
we  got  into  the  omnibus  of  the  hotel  De  la  Paix  and  had  to  wait 
some  time  for  the  baggage.    In  the  meanwhile  this  fellow  seated 

90 


SWITZERLAND 

himself  at  the  other  end  of  the  omnibus  and  we  began  to  discuss 
him.  Emma  said — he  understands  EngHsh!  No,  said  I,  every 
time  I  have  heard  him  speak  it  was  in  ItaHan,  so  we  felt  quite 
free  to  discuss  him.  When  some  man  offered  to  come  in  E.  said 
to  me,  we  won't  let  any  but  good  looking  ones  come  in,  well  then, 
said  I,  you  will  have  to  put  somebody  out.  You  can  imagine 
then  our  amazement  when  on  arriving  at  the  hotel  he  spoke  to 
the  waiter  in  plain  English. 

We  took  our  supper  at  contiguous  tables,  and  he  informed 
us  that  the  old  man  was  a  Russian  and  he  an  Irishman. 
The  next  morning  as  we  were  waiting  in  the  reception  room 
for  the  omnibus  he  hung  around  and  finally  asked  us  why 
we  didn't  go  by  boat,  that  he  was  going  that  way  to  visit 
his  mother.  Lady  Armstrong,  who  was  boarding  at  Ouchy 
just  below  Lausanne.  He  insisted  upon  riding  to  the  depot 
and  buying  our  tickets  for  us,  and  not  in  the  least  mind- 
ing the  remonstrances  of  the  guard  he  ushered  us  into  the  car. 

So  here  we  are  some  distance  out  of  Lausanne  in  the  midst 
of  the  most  beautiful  scenery  imaginable,  and  occupying  an 
attic  room — fortunately  it  is  not  hot.  Our  beds  I  think  have 
made  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Cenis  head  foremost  and  have  never 
been  able  to  recover  their  equilibrium.  We  could  be  well 
enough  off  here  if  we  could  be  out  of  doors  all  the  time,  but 
of  course  I  don't  like  to  leave  Emma  long  alone,  and  it  is 
awfully  dreary  in  the  house.    Moreover  the  table  is  miserable. 

Yesterday  evening  was  the  most  beautiful  sunset  I  have 
seen  in  a  long  while.  On  the  north  side  of  the  lake  where  we 
are  there  are  only  hills,  but  on  the  other  side  are  the  high  Alps 
rising  abruptly  from  the  water's  edge,  some  of  them  covered 
with  snow,  and  yesterday  when  the  sun  set  the  white  rocks 
of  all  these  mountains  were  tinged  the  most  beautiful  rose 
color  and  the  water  of  the  lake  was  of  all  colors  of  green  and 
blue.  From  our  windows  we  can  see  the  ruins  of  a  tower  built 
by  the  good  queen  Bertha  the  Spinner.  1  cannot  realize  that 
I  am  in  the  midst  of  so  many  historical  objects,  one  gets  used 
to  seeing  them  and  they  don't  have  at  all  the  same  prestige 

91 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

that  one  would  think  they  would  have.  1  have  not  heard  a 
word  from  father  for  about  two  weeks  and  as  I  am  very  anxious 
to  hear  when  we  can  join  him  in  Paris  I  don't  know  what  to 
make  of  it. 

Lausanne,    June    12th.,    1870. 
Still  not  a  word  from  Father.     I  think  it  is  very  strange  he 
must  have  known  we  couldn't  stay  in  Italy  so  late  as  this. 
Night  before  last  we  went  into  town  to  hear  a  sacred  concert 


Hk- 


THE  LAKE  OF  GENEVA 


given  at  the  Church  of  St.  Frangois  by  the  St.  Cecilia  society 

of  Lausanne.    The  chorus  was  finely  trained  and  they  gave  a 

part  of  the  St.  Paul  very  effectively.     I  forgot  to  say  that  last 

Sunday  I  went  into  town  to  attend  the  English  service  and 

saw  our  young  Irishman  and  his  mother,  whom  he  introduced 

to  me  as  Lady  Armstrong  and  then  he  walked  out  home  with 

me.     Since  then  he  has  been  out  to  call  twice,  first  alone,  and 

92 


SWITZERLAND 

second  with  his  mother,  and  she  invited  us  to  come  to  see  her. 
So  yesterday  we  drove  down  to  Ouchy  and  she  insisted  upon 
our  sending  away  the  carriage  and  staying  to  tea,  and  after 
tea  we  went  out  on  the  lake  in  row  boats.  As  it  was  bright 
moonhght  and  the  mountains  were  enveloped  in  a  sort  of  haze, 
it  was  as  lovely  as  possible. 

The  Beau  Rivage,  a  magnificent  hotel,  is  situated  directly 
on  the  shore  of  the  lake,  i.e.  with  only  a  garden  between, 
and  here  all  the  evening  a  band  plays  and  there  is  a  plat- 
form built  out  into  the  water  where  people  can  sit  and  watch 
the  boats  and  hear  the  music.  I  cannot  imagine  a  greater 
combination  of  delights  than  is  afforded  by  a  stay  in  such 
a  place  as  that.  It  seems  Lady  Armstrong  is  a  sister  of  Sir 
Francis  Armstrong.  This  son,  Montague,  is  only  eighteen 
years  old,  but  has  seen  so  much  of  society  that  he  appears 
much  older  than  that.  He  spent  all  the  winter  in  Florence 
with  an  aunt  and  as  he  had  letters  of  introduction  to  the 
Prince  Orsini  and  some  of  the  first  families  there,  went  into 
society  a  great  deal.  We  thought  it  was  very  polite  in 
them  to  come  and  see  us,  as  they  didn't  know  anything  of  us 
and  meeting  us  on  the  railway,  and  he  is  too  young  for  us  to 
have  any  designs  on  or  he  on  us.  I  must  go  now  and  get  ready 
for  dinner,  so  will  say  good  bye.  The  Irishman  is  going  to 
make  us  some  sketches — he  does  them  remarkably  well. 
In   great   haste   and   with   much   love   to   all. 

Your  aff.  niece,    M.  D.  R. 

P.  S.  I  open  this  to  say  I  have  just  received  a  telegram 
from  father  in  Paris  saying  they  all  safely  arrived  and  we  leave 
to-morrow  noon  for  Paris  by  the  way  of  Yverdon  and  Neuf- 
chatel. 


FRANCE 

Paris,  June  27th,  1870. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary  &  Children, 

There  is  something  about  the  very  atmosphere  of  Paris 
which  is  fatiguing — there  is  so  much  noise  and  confusion,  and 
so  much  to  be  done  that  we  feel,  when  we  come  home  late  in 
the  afternoon,  as  if  we  could  go  right  to  bed  and  stay  there. 
I  don't  think  Paris  is  any  too  healthy  myself  and  long  to  get 
away  from  it.  Tuesday  or  Wednesday,  the  2nd  or  3rd  of  July, 
we  shall  leave  for  London. 

We  came  by  the  way  of  Neufchatel  and  had  to  ride  all 
night.  During  the  afternoon  we  passed  by  the  shore  of  Lake 
Neufchatel  through  the  most  delightful  country.  All  the  land- 
scape was  of  the  most  beautiful  green  and  dotted  over  with 
brilliant  flowers,  (poppies  grow  wild  in  among  the  grain)  and 
every  few  miles  we  came  across  some  old  ruin  with  high  pointed 
towers  and  Gothic  arches.  In  the  night,  however,  as  we  ap- 
proached Paris  we  began  to  feel  the  effects  of  the  drought,  and 
on  our  arrival  we  were  perfectly  disguised  with  dust. 

We  did  not  find  Father  at  the  station  and  I  was  so  discour- 
aged that  when  we  arrived  at  the  Grand  Hotel  and  I  went  up  to 
his  room,  all  I  said  in  way  of  salutation  was,  Why  father!  how 
could  you  let  us  come  here  alone,  but  the  poor  man  was  not  to 
blame,  as  the  telegram  had  made  the  mistake,  saying  ten  o'clock 
instead  of  five  o'clock.    We  hadn't  the  slightest  idea  where  they 

94 


FRANCE 

were  stopping  but  as  good  luck  would  have  it  found  them  at  the 
Grand  Hotel. 

We  have  been  here  now  two  weeks  and  have  worked  as 
hard  as  any  poor  dogs  ever  did,  what  with  sight-seeing  and 
shopping.  When  I  arrived  here  I  was  quite  ragged — I  had 
not  bought  a  new  dress  since  I  came  over  and  my  old  ones 
were  hanging  together  by  the  last  thread  (figuratively  speak- 
ing) so  my  first  business  was  to  hunt  a  black  silk  suit. 
After  going  through  all  the  large  establishments  to  find  one 
ready  made,  unsuccessfully,  I  went  to  a  dressmaker  who 
promised  to  have  one  done  last  Monday  and  here  it  is  Friday 
and  it  is  not  yet  arrived.  In  the  meantime  I  await  the  giving 
away  of  the  last  thread  —  the  last  hair  that  broke  the 
camel's  back. 

I  have  always  looked  forward  to  Paris  as  a  sort  of  shopping 
Paradise  where  you  had  only  to  say  you  wanted  a  dress  in  such 
and  such  a  color  and  immediately  you  would  be  invested  with 
the  dress,  a  perfect  model  of  beauty  and  style.  Instead  of 
which  I  find  it  is  quite  the  same  old  story  here  as  at  home. 
To  get  the  best  style  you  must  go  to  the  most  expensive 
dressmaker  and  thereby  defeat  the  object  of  buying  here. 

For  the  past  week  we  have  been  busy  sightseeing,  improv- 
ing the  pleasant  weather  in  seeing  the  suburbs  of  Paris,  a  very 
difficult  matter  in  the  fall  as  it  is  always  sure  to  rain.  A  week 
ago  last  Sunday  Father  and  mother  and  I  went  to  the  Hotel 
des  Invalides  to  hear  military  music.  I  wrote  you  about  it 
when  I  was  here  before,  and  I  wanted  mother  to  hear  it. 
There  are  now  in  the  Hospital  three  hundred  men  who  fought 
with  the  first  Napoleon.  It  is  a  grand  sight  to  see  them  march 
up  the  aisle  to  the  drum  roll  and  when  the  host  is  elevated 
they  lower  arms  and  bend  the  head  during  the  trombone  solo 
which  is  always  played  at  that  time. 

Last  Sunday  morning  Father  and  I  went  to  St.  Roch.  It  was 
a  fete  day  and  we  heard  there  was  to  be  fine  music,  and  were  not 
disappointed.  There  was  a  procession  of  children  all  dressed  in 
white,  with  wreaths  of  roses  on  their  heads,  who  came  up  the 

95 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

middle  aisle  to  the  music  of  the  most  magnificent  brass  band  I 
ever  heard.  Finally  when  the  officiating  priest  came  into  the 
aisle  from  the  entrance,  carrying  the  host,  the  band  followed  him 
and  he  was  preceded  b}'  the  censer  boys,  who  turned  every  mo- 
ment in  the  progress  and  swung  the  censers  backwards  while 
others  had  baskets  of  rose  leaves  w^hich  they  threw  high  in  the 
air.    Altogether  it  was  a  magnificent  sight.    The  long  line  of 


THE  PARK  AT  ST.  CLOUD,  PARIS 


censers  swung  in  perfect  time,  the  flowers  and  the  incense  and 

with  all  the  glorious  music  which  made  the  whole  building  fairly 

tremble  with  sound.   I  shall  not  readily  forget  it.   I  think  Father 

was  quite  pleased,  as  he  did  not  seem  to  think  his  time  had 

been  thrown  away.     He  made  the  remark  that  "old-fashioned 

muster  was  nothing  at  all  to  it." 

In  the  afternoon  all  of  us  went  out  to  St.  Cloud,  as  the 

fountains  w^ere  advertised  to  play  at  four  o'clock.      The  Court 

96 


FRANCE 

are  now  occupying  the  Palace*  so  we  were  not  admitted  to 
the  private  grounds  and  had  to  content  ourselves  with  the 
Public  Park.  The  grounds  are  lovely,  laid  out  on  the  side 
of  a  hill,  and  the  celebrated  fountain  is  laid  out  in  terraces 
descending  from  the  private  garden  of  the  Palace.  The 
water  falls  in  broad  sheets  from  one  terrace  to  another, 
while  at  the  sides,  vases  and  dragons  of  all  shapes  throw  out 


THE  LOUVRE,  PARIS 


separate  spouts.  The  whole  effect  as  you  stand  at  the  foot 
and  look  up  is  very  beautiful.  Next  Sunday  we  are  going  to 
Versailles  to  see  the  fountains  play, — there  they  only  play  on 
the  first  Sunday  of  each  month  and  on  grand  occasions. 

Monday  father  devoted  to  business  and  Emma  to  rest  and 
Mother  and  I  took  the  "Louvre"  for  our  duty  that  day.  I  had 
already  spent  three  days  in  it  last  fall  and  had  not  finished,  so 
this  day  I  made  that  an  object  and  think  I  succeeded.  The  gems 
of  the  collection  of  pictures  are  all  in  one  room  which  I  believe  I 

*This  Palace  was  destroyed  in  the  War  of  1870-71  by  the  Germans. 
7  97 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

told  you  about  last  fall.  There  are  two  originals  of  Aiurillo's 
Madonnas  and  a  holy  family  of  Raphael  and  the  Mona  Lisa 
of  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  a  holy  family  of  Andrea  de  Sarto,  the 
Marriage  of  Cana  by  Paul  Veronese,  St.  Michael  overthrowing 
the  Demon  by  Raphael,  and  many  others.  In  the  sculpture 
Gallery  I  was  anxious  to  see  the  Venus  of  Milo,  to  compare  it 
with  the  two  at  the  Vatican  and  Capitol  at  Rome.  I  like  it 
better  than  the  Venus  de  Medici,  the  celebrated  Diana  a  la 
biche  is  also  in  this  collection.    While  looking  at  the  souvenirs 

r    " 


THE  PARK  AT  VERSAILLES,  NEAR  PARIS 

of  the  first  Napoleon,  his  old  gray  coat,  &c.,  the  camp  bed, 
table,  and  chair,  and  the  bench  he  sat  on  at  St.  Helena,  we 
came  across  John  Davis. 

Wednesday  we  went  to  Fontainebleau.  It  is  two  hours 
from  Paris,  a  long  ride.  We  saw  the  table  where  Napoleon 
signed  the  abdication,  the  apartments  where  he  imprisoned 
Pope  Pius  7th  after  he  brought  him  from  Rome  to  perform 
the  ceremony  of  Coronation,  also  the  apartments  of  Mde. 
de  Maintenon.  We  saw  there  souvenirs  of  all  the  French 
Kings  from  the  time  of  Francis  ist.  There  was  one  splen- 
did   old    fireplace   on    the    ground    floor,    representing    King 

98 


FRANCE 

Henry  4th  on  horseback,  a  basso  relievo  of  white  marble 
on  black  ground.  The  present  Empress  occupies  the  same 
bedroom  that  Marie  Antoinette  did,  the  furniture  is  all  em- 
broidered by  hand  and  was  a  present  to  Marie  Antoinette. 
We  saw  and  were  much  interested  in  the  rooms  occupied  by 
Marie  Antoinette.  Did  not  drive  in  the  forest  for  want  of 
time.  I  suppose  it  is  quite  the  same  as  other  forests  I  have 
seen,  but  I  should  like  to  have  seen  it.* 

Yesterday  we  went  out  to  Malmaison.  First  went  into  the 
village  church  of  Rueil  where  Josephine  and  Hortense  are 
buried.  The  former  is  represented  kneeling  at  her  prayers  and 
in  the  dress  she  wore  at  her  coronation.  The  likeness  is  said  to 
be  very  striking.  We  walked  from  there  to  the  Palace,  which 
is  only  an  ordinary  country  house  and  quite  plain,  still  there  is 
an  air  of  home  and  comfort  about  it  that  noneof  the  others  have. 
The  ceilings  are  low  and  the  rooms  cheerful.  In  the  music  room 
is  the  very  harp  she  used  to  play  on  and  in  her  work  room  her 
tapestry  work  is  just  as  she  left  it,  the  needle  stuck  in  the  work. 
Up  stairs  we  saw  the  bed  where  she  died  and  two  very  fine  crayon 
portraits  done  by  Hortense,  one  of  herself  and  one  of  her  hus- 
band.   Altogether  it  was  a  most  interesting  old  place. 

On  our  return  to  town  we  went  to  the  church  of  St.  Germain- 
des-Pres,  the  oldest  church  in  Paris,  but  it  has  been  so  altered 
and  transformed  that  it  has  quite  the  air  of  a  new  one.  All  that 
interested  me  in  it  was  the  tomb  of  James  Douglas.  The  other 
day  we  visited  Pere  la  Chaise,  the  great  cemetery  of  Paris.  It  is 
a  strange  place,  not  at  all  like  our  cemeteries.  It  is  on  a  side 
hill  and  is  laid  out  in  regular  paved  streets  like  a  city,  the 
tombs  rising  up  on  each  side  like  miniature  houses.  It  is 
exactly  like  the  street  of  tombs  in  Pompeii.  The  tomb  of 
Abelard  and  Heloise  is  the  great  attraction.  The  effigies  in 
marble  lie  side  by  side  on  the  slab  under  which  their  bodies  lie. 
I  couldn't  begin  to  tell  you  the  names  of  all  the  distinguished 
people  who  are  buried  there.  Moliere,  La  Fontaine,  Rachel, 
Grisi,  Manuel  Garcia,  Balzac;  Marshal  Ney's  tomb  is  only  a 

*  She  went  to  the  Forest  in  1897. 

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EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

plain  grave  such  as  we  have  in  America.     So  much  for  the 
sights. 

Mother  tells  me  grandmother  has  my  quilt  nearly  finished 
and  that  it  is  a  beauty.  I  expect  to  be  delighted  with  it  and 
hope  it  will  take  the  premium.  Tell  Jimmy  to  save  his  stamps 
and  I  will  get  him  a  book.  I  didn't  come  over  to  spend  my 
time  shopping  but  to  see  and  learn  something. 

Give  my  love  to  all.     Mother  will  write  soon  I  guess. 

Your  aff.   niece,  M.  D.  R. 


ENGLAND 


London,  July  i8th,  1870. 
Langham  Hotel. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary  and  Children, 

We  left  Paris  just  a  week  ago  to-morrow  morning,  and  a 
day  or  two  before  the  war  was  declared  between  France  and 
Prussia,  so  we  missed  all  the  excitement  that  is  raging  in  that 
city  at  present.  The  impression  everywhere  previous  to  the 
declaration  was  that  there  would  be  no  war,  and  they  are  all 
down  on  France  as  being  the  cause  of  it  all.  *  We  had  a  delight- 
ful passage  across  the  channel,  the  water  was  as  smooth  as 
glass,  and  we  enjoyed  our  first  meal  of  roast  beef,  hugely. 

We  are  delighted  with  London,^ — it  is  such  a  wonderful  city. 
I  never  expect  to  see  a  tithe  of  it,  there  is  so  much  to  be  seen. 
To  be  sure  we  have  visited  some  of  the  great  sights  but  at 
every  turn  I  see  names  that  I  have  read  about  all  my  life 
belonging  to  lanes  and  buildings  that  I  long  to  explore.  The 
buildings  are  all  massive  and  aged  in  appearance,  and  there 
is  a  sense  of  solidity  about  everything  that  is  very  impressive 
and  then  there  are  such  beautiful  parks  scattered  all  through 
the  city,  where  you  seem  transported  suddenly  into  the  heart 
of  the  country. 

Our  first  day  was  spent  in  Westminster  Abbey.  I  never 
saw  a  building  that  made  such  an  impression  upon  me  at 
first  sight,  not  that  it  is  larger  or  finer  than  any  other,  but 

*The  Franco-German  War  began  soon  after. 

lOI 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

because  of  the  irregular  architecture  and  its  extremely  old 
appearance — it  is  black  with  age.  To  enter  you  cross  a  yard 
paved  with  tomb  stones  which  brings  you  into  one  of  the 
transepts.  The  building  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross,  in  the  Gothic 
style,  high  vaulted  arches  and  elaborate  carving.  The  win- 
dows are  of  stained  glass  and  the  light  very  dim.  Every  avail- 
able spot  that  is  not  used  for  the  accommodation  of  the  con- 
gregation is  devoted  to  tombs.  Here  you  see  the  tombs 
of  all  of  England's  greatest  men  for  ages.  The  Poets'  Corner 
is  the  most  attractive  spot  of  all.  Shakespeare  has  a  monu- 
ment here,  but  his  body  is  in  the  church  at  Stratford-on-Avon. 
Chaucer's  tomb  is  very  elaborately  carved  and  worn  with  time. 

Behind  what  is  the  high  altar  in  a  former  Catholic  cathedral 
is  the  famous  Chapel  of  Henry  7th,  which  has  the  finest  carved 
stone  ceiling  in  the  w^orld.  Here  are  the  tombs  of  King  Henry 
and  his  wife,  their  effigies  on  their  tombs,  the  whole  enclosed 
by  a  brass  railing.  In  this  chapel  the  Knights  of  the  Order  of 
Bath  held  their  reunions,  their  stalls  surround  the  chapel  and 
their  banners  hang  over  them.  In  the  other  small  chapels  lie 
the  bodies  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots  and  Lord  Darnley  and 
Queen  Elizabeth.  I  remember  one  curious  tomb  made  by 
some  earl  for  himself  and  his  two  wives.  His  ef^gy  and  that  of 
his  first  wife  are  to  be  seen  but  that  of  the  second  wife  is 
missing,  she  having  refused  to  be  placed  on  his  left  side. 

The  shrine  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  a  monument  of  the  By- 
zantine order,  occupies  an  elevated  position  behind  the  high 
altar.  It  is  here  the  sovereigns  of  England  have  been  crowned 
for  many  years,  the  chair  used  on  the  occasion  has  been  used 
since  the  time  of  Edward  the  Confessor,  and  is  a  most  uncom- 
fortable looking  affair  and  very  much  decayed.  I  can't  begin  to 
tell  all  there  is  of  interest  in  the  Abbey  for  it  is  a  perfect  ceme- 
tery. I  found  on  one  tomb  an  inscription  that  I  have  often  met 
with  in  books,  "They  were  a  noble  familie  for  all  the  brothers 
were  valiant  and  all  the  sisters  virtuous."  I  was  interested  in 
looking  at  all  the  celebrated  inscriptions  but  haven't  time  to 
speak  of  them  all.     Milton's  tomb  has  the  oft-quoted  verse, 


ENGLAND 

comparing  him  with  Homer  and  Virgil,  Chaucer's,  the  follow- 
ing, in  Latin — 

"Of  English  bards  who  sang  the  sweetest  strains 
Old  Geoffrey  Chaucer  now  this  tomb  contains, 
For  his  death's  date  if  reader  thou  shouldst  call, 
Look  but  beneath  and  it  will  tell  thee  all." 

The  remains  of  the  unfortunate  princes,  Edward  5th  and 
Richard,  Duke  of  York,  were  deposited  in  the  Abbey  after 
they  were  found  under  the  staircase  in  the  Tower.  There  are 
no  inscriptions  on  Elizabeth's  and  Mary's  tombs.  The  Clois- 
ters are  precisely  like  all  we  have  seen  in  Italy,  a  portico  sur- 
rounding an  open  court.  The  carved  stone  work  is  falling 
away  in  every  direction  and  they  are  obliged  to  keep  it  in 
constant  repair  to  keep  it  from  falling  in  pieces. 

In  every  direction  from  the  Abbey  we  came  across  remnants 
of  the  old  architecture  built  into  newer  buildings — we  went  into 
Westminster  school,  or  rather  peeped  into  one  of  the  corridors 
lined  with  students'  cells.  The  boys  were  all  engaged  in  a  wrest- 
ling match  and  their  caps  and  gowns  were  flying  about  at  a  great 
rate,  and  the  noise  they  made  was  deafening,  I  guess  boys 
are  the  same  all  over  the  world.  Gowns  don't  seem  to  have  a 
dignifying  effect.  Everywhere  we  go  we  meet  these  college 
boys  with  their  funny  square  caps. 

Our  second  day  we  spent  in  the  Tower  and  National  Picture 
Gallery.  The  former  used  to  be  outside  of  the  City  on  the  bank 
of  the  Thames,  but  now  the  city  is  built  all  around  it.  The 
guide  who  conducted  us  through  it  was  dressed  as  a  yeoman  of 
Henry  8th's  time  in  a  very  strange  costume.  What  was  for- 
merely  the  moat  is  now  used  as  a  garden,  otherwise  its  aspect 
remains  unchanged  from  former  times.  We  saw  the  Traitors' 
Gate,  where  all  prisoners  of  state  made  their  entrance  from 
the  river.  The  White  Tower  is  the  centre  building  and  was 
occupied  by  the  Court  when  a  royal  residence, — what  was 
once  the  great  dining  hall  is  now  an  armory,  an  immense  col- 
lection of  arms. 

103 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

In  the  same  building  is  a  fine  collection  of  horse  armor 
and  suits  of  armor  which  belonged  to  celebrated  men  of 
former  times.  The  walls  of  this  building  are  14  feet  thick; 
here  Sir  \\  alter  Raleigh  was  imprisoned.  The  room  where 
he  slept  was  dug  out  of  the  solid  wall  and  the  only  way  in 
which  fresh  air  could  be  admitted  was  through  a  small  hole 
in  the  door.  In  another  building  we  were  shown  where  Peveril 
of  the  Peak  was  imprisoned  and  many  others  who  have  covered 
the  walls  with  inscriptions,  one  of  them — "Be  ye  faithful  unto 
death  and  ye  shall  receive  a  crown  of  life."  The  guide  pointed 
out  to  us  the  very  spot  where  Anne  Boleyn  and  Lady  Jane 
Grey  were  executed.  The  husband  of  the  latter  was  executed 
in  the  morning  in  sight  of  her  window  and  in  a  few  hours  they 
beheaded  her  also.  We  saw  all  the  crown  jewels  of  England,  but 
to  me  they  were  not  nearly  as  interesting  as  the  building  itself. 

At  the  National  Gallery  we  saw  the  Turner  collection. 
I  don't  like  the  pictures  themselves  as  well  as  the  engravings 
of  them  I  have  seen.  I  had  always  supposed  that  as  he  made 
it  his  special  study  to  imitate  nature  as  closely  as  possible  that 
his  pictures  would  possess  the  merit  of  being  very  natural,  but 
it  seems  to  me  to  be  quite  the  reverse  of  the  case.  His  coloring 
is  very  brilliant  and  there  is  a  rough  unfinished  look  about  all  his 
pictures, Queen  Mab's  Grotto  in  particular.  A  great  many  of  his 
subjects  are  taken  from  the  Revelation.  There  were  also  some 
Italian  gems,  an  Ecce  Homo  and  Mary  Magdalen  of  Guido's 
and  a  Christ  disputing  in  the  Temple  of  Da  Vinci  (beautiful). 

That  night  we  went  to  the  Italian  Opera,  heard  Lucca, 
Titiens  and  Mario.  Lucca  has  a  great  reputation  here  but 
I  was  much  disappointed  in  her  voice.  Titiens  is  magnifi- 
cent, tho'  quite  old  now.  Mario's  voice  is  entirely  broken. 
I  can  scarcely  believe  that  he  ever  had  a  beautiful  voice.  The 
British  Museum  we  walked  through  as  rapidly  as  possible — 
it  is  a  collection  of  everything  and  I  have  come  to  the  conclu- 
sion that  I  won't  enter  another  museum;  they  are  all  alike 
only  that  one  is  larger  than  another. 

Last  Saturday  was  a  great  day  at  the  Crystal  Palace  and 

104 


ENGLAND 


we  determined  to  spend  the  day  there.  So  we  went  out  in  the 
morning,  (it  is  about  six  miles  from  the  city)and  took  our 
lunch  of  the  most  delicious  strawberries  we  ever  saw,  in  a  large 
saloon  overlooking  the  country  for  miles,  and  then  after  looking 
round  among  curiosities  of  all  kinds  collected  there  went  into 
the  concert.    These  concerts  are  given  once  a  week  during  the 


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THE  BRITISH  MUSEUM,  LONDON 


season  in  the  Palace  free  of  charge.  We  heard  Christine  Niel- 
son  and  were  delighted  with  her  voice,  and  Faure  the  great 
baritone,  Mad.  Sinico  and  Trebelli-Bellini. 

Afterwards  we  took  our  dinner  in  the  restaurant,  and  that 
over,  went  out  on  to  the  terrace  to  hear  the  band  of  the  Cold- 
stream Guards  play.    Godfrey,  the  composer  of  the  "Guard's 

Waltz,"  and  the   'Hildah,"  and  others,  is  the  leader,  and  they 

105 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

played  splendidly.  One  young  fellow  played  the  "Last  Rose  of 
Summer"  on  the  cornet  so  beautifully  that  it  brought  tears  to 
everybody's  eyes.  I  never  heard  anything  more  touching. 
Another  played  some  wonderful  variations  of  the  Carnival  of 
Venice  on  a  piccolo  and  was  cheered  tremendously  by  the  crowd. 
Then  there  came  a  display  of  fireworks  which  exceeded  anything 
of  the  kind  I  ever  saw.  The  whole  sky  was  filled  with  stars 
bursting  from  the  rockets  and  the  great  fountains  were  illumi- 
nated with  red,  blue  and  green  and  fire  balloons  were  sent  up 
every  minute.  It  was  too  elaborate  for  my  powers  of  descrip- 
tion— it  was  like  a  spectacle  from  fairyland. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  went  back  into  the  palace  and  heard  the 
great  Handel  Organ  and  then  came  home  well  tired  out,  but 
had  to  get  up  early  the  next  morning  to  hear  Spurgeon.  His 
church  is  capable  of  containing  seven  thousand  people  and  it 
was  crammed  with  people.  They  say  he  is  only  twenty-eight 
years  old,  but  it  seems  hardly  possible,  he  looks  much  older. 
He  preaches  in  a  conversational  way,  but  his  downright  earnest- 
ness makes  him  very  impressive.  His  text  was — "Like  as  a 
father  pitieth  his  children  so  the  Lord  pitieth  them  that  fear 
him."  A  woman  was  taken  with  a  fit  and  had  to  be  carried 
out  in  the  middle  of  the  discourse. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  St.  Paul's  and  heard  some  glori- 
ous music.  One  of  the  little  boys  had  a  magnificent  soprano 
voice.  The  whole  service  is  intoned  except  the  sermon.  When 
the  officiating  minister  went  up  to  the  pulpit  preceded  by  two 
old  men  who  carry  silver  maces  he  proved  to  be  an  acquaintance 
we  made  at  Venice  so  we  staid  and  spoke  with  him  after  service. 
Father  took  a  very  bad  cold  there  and  has  been  quite  sick  with 
it,  but  is  better  to-day.  St.  Paul's  is  an  immense  edifice,  built 
according  to  the  plan  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  and  is  still 
unfinished  and  contains  the  tombs  of  Wellington  and  Nelson, 
Dr.  Johnson's  and  Bishop  Heber's,  Sir  Benjamin  W^est,  &c. 
It  is  celebrated  for  its  great  bell  (which  is  only  tolled  on  the 
death  of  members  of  the  royal  family),  and  for  the  whispering 

gallery.    These  two  we  didn't  see  because  it  was  Sunday. 

1 06 


ENGLAND 

We  expect  to  leave  here  to-morrow  morning  but  have  not  yet 
decided  where  we  are  going.  Father  and  Mr.  Greeley  are  going 
to  hear  the  debates  in  Parliament  to-night,  ladies  are  not 
admitted  they  say.  We  are  all  of  us  pretty  well  worn  out  and 
long  to  get  into  the  country.  We  are  afraid  the  war  is  going 
to  prevent  us  from  travelling  much  on  the  continent  and  the 
price  of  goods  will  be  raised.  We  find  London  in  every  respect 
more  expensive  than  the  continent,  and  shall  not  buy  anything 
here.  Mother  has  bought  an  India  shawl  for  ^500.  We 
haven't  heard  from  you  for  a  long  time — are  you  all  well.^  My 
best  love  to  all  the  family. 

Your  aff.  niece, 

M.  D.  R. 

Regent's  Hotel,  July  21st.   1870. 
Leamington  Spa. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary  &  Children, 

I  am  very  tired  to-night,  but  thought  I  had  better  write 
you  something  about  to-day's  doings  before  going  to  bed,  as 
it  shortens  the  work  in  the  end. 

Leamington  is  one  of  the  fashionable  watering  places  of 
England  and  is  about  two  hours  and  forty  minutes  from  London 
and  a  half  hour  north  of  Rugby.  I  would  have  liked  to  stop 
at  the  latter  place  but  father  was  in  a  hurry  to  get  here,  and 
so  we  kept  on.  I  saw  some  of  the  Rugby  boys  as  we  passed 
through  the  station.  I  wonder  if  Jimmy  has  read  "Tom  Brown 
at  Rugby".? — it  is  a  great  boys'  book.  Part  of  the  way  the 
train  ran  with  such  speed  that  we  were  quite  frightened  think- 
ing the  cars  would  surely  leap  from  the  track. 

There  are  medicinal  springs  in  this   place  that  are  very 

good   for  rheumatism  and  skin  diseases — father  thinks  they 

are   going  to   do  him   good.      So  we  walked  down  to  them 

this  morning  and  drank  some  of  the  water.     It  is  very  nasty 

stuff,  like  ocean  water,  only  worse.     About  eleven  o'clock  we 

started  off  in  a  big  carriage  in  which  Emma  and  I  sat  up  in  a 

high  seat  behind  the  others,  for  Warwick  Castle  and  Kenil- 

107 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

worth.  We  enjoyed  our  ride  along  the  fine  English  roads, 
bordered  with  neatly  trimmed  hedges — the  English  keep  the 
country  in  such  a  high  state  of  cultivation  that  it  is  beautiful 
everywhere  just  for  that  very  reason. 

Warwick  Castle  is  on  the  river  Avon — we  had  a  lovely  view 
of  it  as  we  approached.  It  is  a  grand  old  building,  with  high 
battlemented  towers  and  is  said  to  date  back  to  the  time  of 
Caesar,  but  if  so  there  is  none  of  the  original  building  left.  The 
oldest  part  of  the  castle  is  Caesar's  tower,  which  we  did  not 
enter.  Of  course  like  all  old  castles  it  is  surrounded  by  a  moat, 
which  is  now  all  overgrown  with  trees.  We  entered  through  the 
old  portcullis  into  the  open  Green  round  which  the  castle  is  built 
and  where  we  had  a  fine  view  of  all  its  different  portions. 

Entering  the  lodge  at  our  left  an  old  woman  showed  us  a 
collection  of  curiosities  of  the  Giants,  as  she  said.  There  was 
the  great  porridge  pot  of  bell  metal  which  will  hold  102  gallons 
and  which  she  said  she  saw  emptied  three  times  at  the  coming 
of  age  of  the  present  earl.  It  belonged  to  Guy  the  great  Earl  of 
Warwick,  the  Giant,  who  lived  in  the  year  1000  and  who  was 
over  eight  feet  tall.  She  also  showed  us  his  helmet  and  his  horse 
armor  and  his  battle-axe,  and  many  things  of  the  same  sort. 
Afterwards  a  man  took  us  through  that  part  of  the  castle  used 
at  present.  The  banqueting  hall,  the  dining  and  drawing  rooms. 
In  the  former  was  another  collection  of  curiosities,  armor  be- 
longing to  distinguished  members  of  the  family,  &c.,  among 
them  a  helmet  which  belonged  to  Oliver  Cromwell.  In  another 
part  of  the  house  we  saw  a  plaster  cast  of  Cromwell's  face  after 
death  and  a  bust  of  Proserpine  by  our  artist  Powers.  The  cele- 
brated picture  of  Charles  the  ist  by  Vandyke  stands  at  the  end 
of  a  long  gallery  filled  with  armor.  He  is  represented  as  ap- 
proaching on  horseback.  The  horse  and  rider  stand  right  out 
from  the  picture  as  if  they  were  alive. 

In  the  dining  room  is  a  very  remarkable  sideboard  or  buffet 

as  they  call  it,  presented  to  the  present  Earl  by  the  town.     It  is 

made  of  a  tree  grown  at  Kenilworth  and  elaborately  carved 

with  scenes  representing  Elizabeth's  visit  at  that  place.     I  had 

108 


ENGLAND 

more  interest  in  this  castle  from  having  read  Bulwer's  "Last  of 
the  Barons."  This  Baron  was  Richard  Earl  of  Warwick,  the 
King  Maker,  and  is  buried  in  the  Beauchamp  Chapel  of  St. 
Mary's  church  in  the  village.  In  this  church  we  went  up  into  a 
little  passage  where  they  used  to  hear  confession — the  steps  of 
solid  stone  were  worn  completely  through  in  the  middle  so  that 
I  could  see  through  under  the  staircase.  Here  was  also  the 
tomb  of  Lord  Dudley,  Earl  of  Leicester. 

We  next  went  to  Guy's  Cliff,  where  is  the  country  seat  of 
Lord  Percy,  and  saw  a  part  of  an  old  monastery  with  cells 
dug  into  the  side  of  the  hill.  Before  the  time  of  the  mon- 
astery Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick,  having  killed  a  great  many  men, 
became  penitent  and  disguising  himself  as  a  hermit  lived  in  a 
cave  in  the  side  of  this  cliff  and  went  every  morning  to  beg  at 
the  gate  of  his  own  castle  and  in  that  way  supported  himself 
until  he  died.    They  also  showed  us  a  well  called  Guy's  well. 

Then  we  went  to  Kenilworth  Castle.  It  is  a  glorious  old 
ruin,  overgrown  with  ivy.  We  climbed  all  over  it  and  thought 
of  the  time  when  the  Earl  of  Leicester  entertained  Queen  Eliza- 
beth here  and  at  the  same  time  kept  Amy  Robsart  confined  in 
Mervyn  Bower — we  went  into  the  very  room.  It  was  in  the 
garden  of  this  castle  I  believe  that  Elizabeth  and  Mary  Stuart 
had  their  memorable  interview.  Elizabeth  afterwards  had  this 
same  earl  beheaded  at  the  tower.  I  should  like  to  see  this  old 
ruin  by  moonlight — it  seems  to  me  like  a  haunted  place,  and 
as  if  the  ghost  of  poor  Amy  Robsart,  who  suffered  so  here, 
might  come  out  and  confront  one.  How  I  should  have  liked 
to  see  this  place  just  as  it  was  during  Elizabeth's  visit! 

On  our  way  home  we  passed  through  the  grounds  of  Lord 
Leigh,  the  wealthiest  nobleman  of  this  county  and  saw  all  that 
remains  of  Stoneleigh  Abbey.  Saturday  we  intend  to  spend  at 
Stratford.  I  am  sitting  in  the  dining-room  of  the  hotel  looking 
out  into  the  garden  which  is  a  beautiful  spot  with  a  fountain 
and  hosts  of  brilliant  flowers.  It  is  as  cool  and  comfortable  as 
possible. 

This  is  said  to  be  a  very  fashionable  place,  and  the  hotel 

109 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

is  full,  but  it  is  so  different  from  with  us.  There  is  hardly  ever 
any  one  to  be  seen  here,  in  this  room  or  at  the  bath  room. 
I  suppose  a  great  many  have  private  villas,  but  where  they 
keep  themselves  I  cannot  imagine. 

Leamington,   July   24th,    1870. 

To-day  is  Sunday,  but  we  have  not  any  of  us  been  to  church 
because  we  felt  that  we  needed  to-day  for  rest,  as  we  are  to 
start  off  again  to-morrow,  but  I  always  have  letters  to  write  so 
there  is  no  rest  for  me.  Yesterday  at  half-past  nine  we  started 
for  Stratford-on-Avon,  the  home  of  Shakespeare.  Driving 
through  the  country  here  is  as  delightful  as  possible — the  grass 
is  so  green  and  there  are  so  many  fine  old  trees — father  thinks 
he  would  like  to  own  a  place  here. 

About  four  miles  this  side  of  Stratford  we  came  to  Charle- 
cote,  the  residence  of  Spencer  Lucy — it  has  been  in  the  Lucy 
family  for  generations  since  before  the  time  of  Shakespeare. 
As  we  came  along  whole  herds  of  deer  were  lying  down  a  short 
distance  from  the  fence  and  father  had  to  get  down  and  go  to 
look  at  them.  In  Shakespeare's  time  Sir  Thomas  Lucy  lived 
here  and  it  was  in  this  very  park  that  Shakespeare  shot  the 
deer  and  was  arraigned  in  the  Hall  for  deer-stealing.  After- 
wards in  one  of  his  plays  he  brings  in  almost  the  whole  scene 
and  satirizes  Sir  Thomas  under  the  form  of  Justice  Shallow. 

Stratford  is  now  a  flourishing  town,  much  larger  than  in 
S's  time,  but  all  its  interest  for  strangers  lies  in  the  fact  that 
the  great  poet  was  born  here  and  here  died.  Our  first  visit  was 
to  the  house  where  he  was  born.  It  is  a  little  old  fashioned 
house  in  Henley  street-  and  has  been  used  as  a  butcher  shop 
but  has  been  bought  by  the  government  and  restored  to  its 
original  condition.  He  was  born  in  the  front  room  up  stairs; 
its  walls  are  covered  thick  with  the  names  of  visitors,  among 
them  on  the  window  I  saw  the  name  of  Walter  Scott  written 
with  a  diamond. 

There  was  a  bust  of  Shakespeare  on  a  table  which  is  said 
to  be  the  best  likeness  of  him,  and  which  does  not  in  the  least 


ENGLAND 

resemble  the  pictures  we  have  of  him  in  America.  His  face  in 
this  is  rather  fleshy  and  his  mouth  very  small  with  full  lips. 
There  is  nothing  besides  this  in  the  house  of  any  interest.  In 
the  garden  there  is  a  small  mulberry  tree,  which  the  gardener 
told  me  was  a  lineal  descendant  of  the  one  Shakespeare  planted 
at  his  other  house — there  was  also  a  Vv^hite  cat  walking  around 
whose  acquaintance  I  made  and  who  bore  the  rather  remark- 
able name  of  William  Richard— the  gardener  said  he  was  not 
deaf  as  is  usually  the  case  with  white  cats. 

On  our  way  to  church  we  passed  Kew  Place  where  the 
poet  lived  after  his  return  from  London.  At  one  time  the 
house  came  into  the  hands  of  a  Rev.  Mr,  Gastrell  who  had 
it  razed  to  the  ground  to  prevent  the  trouble  of  answering 
the  questions  of  strangers  who  came  there  to  see  it.  Since 
then  the  government  has  bought  it  and  having  uncovered 
the  foundations  keeps  the  garden  around  it  in  fine  order. 
The  large  mulberry  tree  planted  by  Shakespeare's  own  hand — 
this  same  man  had  cut  it  down  for  fire-wood,  and  thereby  made 
himself  so  odious  to  the  inhabitants  that  they  turned  him  out 
of  the  town. 

The  church  is  a  fair  example  of  all  the  village  churches 
of  England,  surrounded  by  a  churchyard  along  the  further 
side  of  which  the  Avon  runs.  It  was.  a  quiet,  delightful  spot, 
where  I  should  like  to  spend  a  day.  The  interior  is  very 
pretty — contains  some  strange  monuments  of  the  Clopton 
family  with  colored  effigies.  Shakespeare  is  buried  in  front  of 
the  chancel  with  the  others  of  his  family  under  a  plain  stone 
slab,  with  the  strange  inscription  which  has  prevented  the 
government  from  moving  his  body  to  Westminster  Abbey. 

"Good  Frend  for  Jesus  sake  forbeare 
To  digg  the  dust  encloased  Heare. 
Blessed  be  the  man  yt  spares  these  stones, 
And  curst  be  he  yt  moves  my  bones." 

On  the  left  is  a  monument  with  a  bust  of  Shakespeare 
represented  as  writing,  and  under  it  this  inscription — 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

"Stay,  passenger,  why  goest  thou  by  so  fast?" 
"Read,  if  thou  canst,  whom  envious  death  hath  plast" 
"Within  this  monument  Shakespere,  with  whome" 
"Quick  nature  dide:  whose  name  doth  deck  ys  tombe" 
"Far  more  than  cost:  Sith  all  yt  he  hath  witt, " 
"Leaves  living  art  but  page  to  serve  his  witt." 

All  the  time  we  were  in  the  church  the  organist  was  playing 
on  the  organ,  and  I  couldn't  help  but  be  impressed  with  the 
solemnity  of  the  scene.  The  sexton  showed  us  the  parish  reg- 
ister with  the  record  of  Shakespeare's  baptism  in  Latin.  "Gug- 
lielmus  filius  Johannes,  Apr.  26,  1564."  I  copied  a  very  amusing 
epitaph  I  found  in  one  side  of  the  church,  it  was  that  of  a 
woolen  draper. 

"Heare  lieth  intombed  the  Corps  of  Richard  Hill, 
A  woolen  draper  beeing  in  his  time, 
Whose  virtues  live,  whose  fame  dooth  fiorish  stil 
Though  hee  desolved  be  to  dust  and  shine. 
A  mirror  hee  and  paterne  mai  be  made. 
For  such  as  shall  suckcead  him  in  that  trade, 
He  did  not  use  to  sweare  to  close  eather  faigne. 
His  brother  to  befraude  in  barganninge 
He  woolde  not  strive  to  get  excessive  gaine 
In  any  cloath  or  other  kinde  of  thinge." 

We  took  our  lunch  at  the  Red  Horse  Inn,  the  same  where 
Washington  Irving  stopped  when  he  visited  Stratford,  and  saw 
the  parlor  he  occupied — then  went  down  into  the  fields  by  the 
Avon  and  sat  down  on  the  banks  awhile,  and  then  drove  home. 
I  believe  we  stop  at  Matlock,  Derbyshire,  to-morrow.  This 
will  have  to  do  for  to-day,  I  guess,  as  I  am  tired. 

M.  D.  R. 


SCOTLAND 


Edinburgh,   Aug.    2nd,    1870. 

Royal  Hotel. 
Dear  Cliff, 

We  arrived  here  in  Edinburgh  last  Saturday  night,  and 
the  very  next  morning  mother  fell  on  the  stairs  and  sprained 
her  ankle  so  badly  that  we  thought  at  first  it  was  broken — it 
very  soon  was  terribly  swollen  and  painful  and  we  sent  for  a 
surgeon.  He  said  there  was  no  fracture  but  she  would  have  to 
be  very  careful  and  might  not  use  her  foot — but  must  lie  in  bed 
for  several  days.  To-day  it  is  very  much  better — ^we  hope  she 
may  be  able  to  get  up  in  a  day  or  two. 

I  believe  my  last  letter  was  written  from  Leamington,  so  in 
accordance  with  my  usual  plan  I  will  try  to  give  you  an  idea  of 
what  we  have  seen  between  there  and  here.  A  two  hours'  ride 
from  Leamington  brought  us  to  Matlock  Bath,  a  lovely  place  in 
among  the  hills  and  on  Derwent  water,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  High  Tor,  and  opposite  cliffs.  We  stayed  there  only  one  night 
taking  a  drive  to  the  paternal  home  of  Florence  Nightingale,  a 
beautiful  English  home.  Here  father  and  Mr.  Greeley  amused 
themselves  by  dealing  out  pennies  to  at  least  twenty  ragged 
youngsters.  At  the  hotel  there  was  a  magnificent  Plane  tree,  a 
tremendous  one  with  its  branches  supported  by  poles,  giving  it 
the  appearance  of  a  banyan  tree.  At  the  Old  Bath  Hotel 
Lord  Byron  and  Mary  Chaworth  used  to  meet. 

From  there  we  went  to  the  famous  Peacock  Inn  at  Rowsely, 

8  113 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire's  place.  It  was 
a  real  specimen  of  the  old-fashioned  style  of  house,  with  high 
sloping  roof  and  small  diamond-paned  casement  windows,  all 
half-grown  with  ivy.  Our  first  excursion  was  to  Haddon  Hall, 
an  uninhabited  Castle  left  exactly  as  in  the  olden  time  and  on 
that  account  we  found  it  very  interesting.  It  was  built  by 
Peveril  of  the  Peak,  the  natural  son  of  William  the  Conqueror, 
and  has  since  been  the  residence  of  the  Manners  and  Vernon 
family.  It  was  here  the  celebrated  Dorothy  Vernon  lived. 
I  have  never  read  her  history  but  mean  to. 

Entering  the  Court  they  showed  us  the  Chaplain's  room. 
Poor  man,  he  was  but  an  unimportant  member  of  the  house- 
hold, and  was  put  off  into  a  corner.  The  chapel  too  was  a 
strange  uncomfortable  affair.  The  greatest  space  was  devoted 
to  the  dining  hall,  kitchen  and  larders.  How  they  ever  managed 
to  cook  in  such  a  dark  place  I  don't  understand,  there  was  a 
great  open  fireplace  and  besides  that  something  like  our  modern 
ranges  and  heavy  wooden  tables  with  basins  cut  in  them  for 
chopping  things,  places  to  cut  meat  and  water  troughs,  the 
whole  surrounded  by  small  store-rooms.  From  the  kitchen  a 
small  dark  passage  led  up  to  the  dining  hall  with  a  table  raised 
on  a  platform  and  rude  wooden  benches  to  sit  on.  On  the  wall 
was  an  instrument  used  to  fasten  a  man's  wrist  to  the  wall  if  he 
couldn't  drink  his  portion  and  then  cold  water  was  poured 
down  his  sleeve.  Some  one  says  they  never  would  have  thought 
of  pouring  it  down  his  throat. 

The  drawing  room  was  hung  with  tapestry  and  had  the 
funniest  little  windows  and  closets — the  bed-room  contains 
an  old  bed  all  in  rags,  which  must  have  been  elegant,  in 
which  Queen  Elizabeth  slept  when  on  a  visit  here.  The  great 
ball-room  looks  out  on  a  stiflP-looking  terrace  of  theold  fashioned 
style  with  a  heavy  stone  balustrade  and  flight  of  steps  leading 
down  from  it.  This  is  the  only  place  we  have  seen  that  gives 
one  a  perfect  idea  of  how  they  used  to  live  three  or  four  cen- 
turies ago. 

From  here  we  went  to  Chatsworth,  the  modern  residence 

114 


SCOTLAND 

of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire,  esteemed  one  of  the,  or  rather 
the  finest,  place  in  England.  The  Park  is  immense  and 
stocked  with  all  sorts  of  game.  The  house  is  built  in  the  Italian 
style  and  resembles,  both  exterior  and  interior,  an  Italian 
Palace.  Near  the  house  is  a  small  building  surrounded  by  a 
moat  and  called  Queen  Mary's  Bower,  as  she  used  to  spend 
some  time  on  that  spot  when  imprisoned  at  Chatsworth.  I 
haven't  time  to  tell  about  all  I  saw  there,  but  I  don't  take  the 
same  interest  in  such  a  modern  building  anyway. 

There  is  a  splendid  library  and  a  fine  collection  of  paintings, 
and  a  large  room  devoted  to  statuary,  in  which  there  are  some 
gems.  The  suite  of  state  apartments  is  one  hundred  and  ninety 
feet  long,  and  splendidly  ornamented  with  the  finest  wood  carv- 
ing I  ever  saw,  done  by  Gibbons.  In  one  room  is  the  wardrobe 
of  Louis  XIV.  Among  the  elegant  ornaments  are  some  mala- 
chite tables  and  a  clock  in  the  same  material,  presented  by 
Alexander  1st  and  the  late  Czar  Nicholas  of  Russia.  The 
walls  of  the  chapel  are  richly  ornamented  with  wood  carvings 
and  paintings. 

The  gardens  are  laid  out  in  every  imaginable  style  and  con- 
tain some  fine  fountains.  One  of  them  is  an  iron  tree,  so  good  an 
imitation  that  no  one  would  suspect  it  and  they  generally  play 
tricks  on  people.  Mr.  Greeley  went  under  it  unsuspectingly  and 
got  slightly  deluged,  though  not  enough  to  inconvenience  him. 
There  is  an  immense  hot  house  built  after  the  Crystal  Palace, 
where  I  found  a  poor  little  kitten  who  is  kept  there  to  catch 
bugs,  I  suppose.  It  was  evidently  dying  of  the  heat.  The  late 
Duke  had  immense  rocks  brought  from  a  distance  and  piled  up 
to  make  quite  large  hills  and  grottoes  in  his  garden.  There 
is  everything  there  that  money  can  buy. 

We  went  on  to  Manchester  the  next  day  but  saw  nothing 
there.  The  next  day  found  us  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Windemere 
in  a  hotel  where  the  American  flag  was  floating.  In  the  even- 
ing we  took  a  boat  ride  on  the  lake  and  the  next  morning  we 
were  all  on  top  of  the  stage  coach  en  route  for  Keswick  where 
we  took  the  cars  for  Edinburgh.    It  was  like  our  White  Moun- 

115 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

tain  travelling,  but  the  scenery  bore  a  striking  resemblance  to 
the  Green  Mountains. 

Of  the  four  Lakes,  Windemere,  Grasmere,  Thirlemere  and 
Rydal  water,  Grasmere  is  the  most  beautiful,  the  grass  cloth- 
ing the  banks  to  the  very  verge  of  the  water  and  then  re- 
flected in  it.  Near  Ambleside  is  the  home  of  Wordsworth, 
but  we  did  not  stop  to  visit  it.  By  the  roadside  we  saw  the 
rock  with  the  steps  ascending  to  it  which  he  made  himself 
and  which  goes  by  the  name  of  Wordsworth's  study.  Both 
he  and  Coleridge  have  tombs  at  the  village  church  but 
Coleridge  is  not  buried  there  but  at  Highgate.  Arrived  at 
Keswick  we  had  time  to  go  up  to  Greta  Hall,  the  former 
residence  of  the  poet  Southey  and  where  he  gloried  in  the 
beauty  of  the  view  to  be  obtained  from  its  windows,  and 
also  to  visit  his  tomb,  a  mile  beyond  in  the  village  churchyard, 
only  a  plain  black  slab. 

Edinburgh,  August  3rd.  1870. 

As  we  leave  Edinburgh  to-morrow  morning  to  take  a  hur- 
ried trip  through  the  Highlands,  I  must  finish  all  I've  got  to 
say  about  this  place  to-night.  Finding  that  mother's  foot  was 
not  likely  to  prove  dangerous  we  went  out  Sunday  morning 
to  hear  the  celebrated  Dr.  Stuart  preach.  He  was  a  regular 
Scotchman  in  appearance,  but  spoke  with  very  little  brogue — 
his  style  is  very  concise  and  he  is  evidently  a  man  of  ideas 
but  he  hardly  clothes  them  with  enough  ornament  to  render 
them  palatable  to  an  ordinary  congregation.  In  the  evening 
we  walked  over  to  St.  Giles,  where  John  Knox  used  to  preach. 
It  was  formerly  a  cathedral  but  is  now  divided  into  three  parts 
and  three  different  ministers  preach  there  at  the  same  time. 

The  next  morning  we  went  up  on  Carlton  Hill  to  take  a  view 

of  the  city.     Edinburgh  has  been  compared  to  Athens — in 

point  of  situation  and  architecture.     Edinburgh  castle  stands 

on  a  high  crag,  which  looms  up  high  above  the  rest  of  the  city 

and  is  inaccessible  except  on  one  side,  where  a  street  runs  down 

from  it  into  the  heart  of  the  old  city,  to  the  castle  of  Holyrood, 

which  slopes  away  from  this  street  on  both  sides  into  a  ravine. 

116 


SCOTLAND 

On  the  other  side  of  one  of  these  ravines  stands  the  new  town. 
From  the  top  of  this  hill  where  we  were  standing  we  had  a 
splendid  view  of  both  old  and  new  town,  and  I  have  never 
seen  a  more  picturesque  sight,  there  is  so  much  more  variety 
in  its  position  than  is  usual.  At  our  feet  lay  the  Castle  of 
Holyrood,  so  celebrated  in  History,  and  on  the  other  side  Leith, 
the  seaport  of  Edinburgh  and  in  the  distance  the  Bare  Rocks, 
where  the   Covenanters   used  to   hide. 


HOLYROOD  CASTLE,  EDINBURGH 

The  monuments  to  .Nelson  and  Dugald  Stewart  are  on  this 
hill,  also  the  unfinished  remains  of  a  building  designed  to  be  a 
copy  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens.  The  effect  when  you  are  down 
at  the  other  end  of  the  city  looking  up  the  ravine  is  very  impres- 
sive and  different  from  anything  I  have  ever  seen.  Holyrood 
Castle  which  we  visited  next  is  now  used  by  the  Queen  when- 
ever she  comes  here,  and  has  been  remodeled  to  serve  modern 
purposes,  but  the  rooms  connected  with  the  history  of  Mary, 
Queen  of  Scots,  are  left  just  as  they  were  when  she  used  them, 

her  drawing  room  and  bed  chamber,  and  adjoining  the  latter 

117 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

the  little  supping  room  in  which  took  place  the  tragedy  of 
Rizzio.  They  showed  us  the  very  staircase  leading  to  her 
bedroom  by  which  Lord  Darnley  and  his  associates  ascended 
and  entered  the  supping  room.  Here  they  seized  Rizzio 
and  dragged  him  through  her  bedroom  out  into  the  draw- 
ing room,  stabbing  him  a  great  many  times,  when  he  final- 
ly breathed  his  last  close  by  the  door  into  the  hall.  He  got 
behind  Mary  and  tried  to  protect  himself  in  that  way,  but 
it  was  of  no  avail,  and  they  even  threatened  her  life  if  she 
should  attempt  to  interfere.  The  blood-spot  still  remains  on 
the  floor  where  Rizzio  fell — and  the  partition  which  Mary  had 
erected  to  prevent  her  from  seeing  it. 

Her  bed  chairs  and  a  child's  cradle  are  still  in  her  bed  cham- 
ber, though  nearly  fallen  into  decay.  It  is  hard  to  realize  that 
they  ever  were  the  rich  things  they  really  were.  Her  work-box 
is  made  of  her  own  handiwork  covered  with  glass — over  it  hangs 
her  mirror,  which  we  should  not  now  consider  fit  for  a  servant's 
bedroom,  so  little  and  old  fashioned  is  it.  In  the  supping 
room  is  the  block  of  marble  on  which  she  kneeled  when  she  was 
married  to  Lord  Darnley.  His  apartments  were  immediately 
over  hers  and  connected  with  them  by  a  small  winding  staircase. 

Opposite  the  Palace  is  a  little  low  building  called  Queen 
Mary's  Bath  House,  and  adjoining  it  the  ruins  of  the  fam- 
ous Holyrood  Abbey.  The  place  is  paved  with  graves — in 
one  corner  the  royal  vault  where  are  buried  James  2nd,  James 
5th,  and  Lord  Darnley.  Nothing  but  the  walls  are  standing,  the 
roof  being  entirely  gone.  The  street  leading  from  this  palace  up 
to  the  Castle  passes  through  the  heart  of  the  old  town,  by  the 
Tolbooth,  or  old  Jail,  a  remarkably  old  building,  and  past  the 
house  where  John  Knox  lived.  There  is  an  effigy  of  him  on 
the  outside  of  the  house  represented  as  preaching  to  the  multi- 
tude.    This  inscription  is  over  the  door, — 

"Love  God  above  all,  and  your  neighbour  as  yourself." 

The  houses  in  this  part  of  the  city  are  very  strange  looking 

affairs — they  look  so  old  it  seems  as  if  they  must  come  down 

118 


SCOTLAND 

over  your  head;  some  of  them  are  seven  and  eight  stories  high, 
which  adds  to  their  dangerous  appearance,  and  are  capped 
with  little  pointed  towers. 

Just  before  reaching  Parliament  house  we  came  to  a  heart, 
laid  in  the  pavement,  with  stones.  That  is  the  heart  of  Mid- 
lothian and  stands  on  the  place  where  the  old  jail  stood.  In 
front  of  the  Parliament  House  is  a  stone  placed  in  the  street 
to  mark  the  spot. 

The  Castle,  like  all  other  old  castles,  is  a  great  rambling 
building  with  high  walls  and  towers.  There  is  nothing  partic- 
ularly interesting  on  the  inside  but  the  rooms  occupied  by 
Queen  Mary  when  James  the  6th  was  born.  When  he  was 
eight  days  old  he  was  let  down  in  a  basket  from  the  window  of 
one  of  these  rooms,  at  a  fearful  height,  because  they  were  doubt- 
ful of  his  safety.  The  prayer  that  Mary  offered  up  at  the  time 
is  painted  on  the  wall.  In  another  room,  are  kept  the  crown  of 
Scotland  and  the  Regalia.  It  seems  the  latter  were  kept  in 
hiding  for  over  a  hundred  years  to  keep  them  out  of  the  hands 
of  the  English  and  some  people  even  suffered  torture  on  their 
account.  Walter  Scott  was  present  at  the  opening  of  the  chest 
when  they  were  at  last  found,  after  the  cause  of  their  seclusion 
had  been  removed. 

Yesterday  we  spent  in  hunting  shawls  and  to-day  we  drove 
out  to  Roslin  Castle  and  Chapel,  first  visiting  the  Earl  of 
Buccleugh's  residence  and  then  driving  to  Hauthomeden,  the 
former  residence  of  the  poet  Drummond,  where  we  left  mother 
to  go  in  the  carriage  round  to  Roslin  Chapel  to  which  we 
walked.  Drummond's  house  is  built  on  a  high  rock  at  the 
head  of  a  beautiful  and  romantic  glen,  through  which  the  river 
Esk  runs — the  view  of  this  glen  from  the  house  is  perfectly 
lovely.  Underneath  the  house  and  dug  out  of  the  solid  rock 
are  the  caves  where  Bruce  lived  for  a  time.  The  room  which 
served  for  his  library  has  walls  like  a  honeycomb  to  contain  his 
books.     His  sword  is  there  and  a  desk  belonging  to  John  Knox. 

We  then  walked   through  the   glen,  the  distance  of  two 

miles  to  Roslin  Castle.    The  Castle  is  nothing  but  an  old  ruin 

119 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

mostly  underground,  but  the  Chapel  is  considered  one  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  ecclesiastical  architecture  in  Scotland.  The 
stone  carving  is  very  beautiful,  there  is  one  pillar  in  particular 
of  which  the  carving  is  considered  wonderful.  It  seems  the 
architect  was  not  able  to  complete  it  from  the  design,  so  he 
went  off  to  Rome  to  study  and  while  he  was  gone  one  of  his 
apprentices  finished  it  and  the  architect  on  his  return  was  so 
provoked  and  jealous  that  he  raised  his  hammer  and  struck  the 
man  on  his  head,  so  that  he  died.  There  is  a  legend  that  when- 
ever a  Lord  of  Roslin  is  about  to  die,  that  the  chapel  appears  to 
be  in  flames.    Walter  Scott  speaks  of  it  in  his  ballad  of  Rosabel. 

The  Knights  of  Roslin  were  all  buried  in  full  armor  un- 
derneath the  chapel.  This  evening  father  and  I  drove  over 
to  Greyfriars  churchyard,  where  some  of  the  most  distin- 
guished men  of  Scotland  are  buried,  but  found  it  closed,  so 
we  drove  down  through  Cowgate,  one  of  the  oldest  streets  of 
the  old  town,  where  all  the  scum  of  the  city  lives  and  through 
Grass  Market  (where  all  criminals  used  to  be  beheaded),  a  filth- 
ier set  of  people  I  never  saw — -a  squalid  miserable  looking 
set.  Then  we  passed  around  under  the  castle,  where  the  Earl 
of  Moray  with  his  followers  climbed  up  one  night  and  scaling 
the  wall  took  the  castle.  The  driver  said  that  the  soldiers  now 
quartered  in  the  garrison  are  in  the  habit  of  dropping  themselves 
down  over  the  wall  if  they  want  to  get  off  of  a  night.  It  doesn't 
seem  as  if  they  possibly  could  without  breaking  their  necks. 

Mother  and  I  are  going  out  to-morrow  morning  to  hunt 
some  blanket  shawls.  So  far  she  has  seen  nothing  she  likes  so 
well  as  those  at  home. 

Queen  Mary's  prayer  is  written  on  the  wall  in  old  English 
and  very  difficult  to  decipher — 

"Lord  Jesus  Christ  that  crounit  was  with  thornse, 
Preserve  the  Birth  quhais  Badgie  heir  is  borne, 
and  send  Hir  Sonne  successione,  to  Reigne  stille 
Lang  in  this  Realme,  if  that  it  be  they  will, 
Als  grant  O  Lord  quhat  ever  of  Hir  proceed, 
Be  to  Thy  Honer  and  Praise  sobied." 
1 20 


SCOTLAND 

Herring  seems  to  be  the  favorite  food  of  the  lower  classes. 
The  fish  wives  are  constantly  crying  through  the  streets 
carrying  them  in  baskets  on  their  backs,  and  held  in 
place  by  a  leather  strap  passed  over  the  forehead.  No 
one,  a  stranger,  would  ever  find  the  slightest  clue  to  the 
cry  they  utter,  their  voices  are  so  shrill  and  discordant, 
and  their  pronunciation  so  rude. 

Edinburgh,  August  4th.  1870. 
Early  this  morning  I  went  over  to  Greyfriars  churchyard. 
They  wouldn't  any  of  them  go  with  me,  so  rather  than  miss 
it  I  determined  to  go  alone.  As  I  had  only  a  few  minutes  I 
had  time  to  visit  but  few  graves.  The  most  important  one  is 
the  grave  of  the  Covenanters  where  most  of  those  killed  during 
the  persecution  of  the  Covenanters  are  buried.  I  copied  the 
inscription  on  the  tombstone  as  follows — 

"Halt  passenger,  take  heed  what  you  do  see, 
•  This  tomb  doth  shew  for  what  some  men  did  die, 

Here  lies  interred  the  dust  of  those  who  stood 
'Gainst  perjury,  resisting  unto  blood. 
Adhering  to  the  Covenants  and  Laws, 
Establishing  the  same,  which  was  the  cause 
Their  lives  were  sacrificed  unto  the  lust 
Of  Prelatists  abjured.  Though  here  their  dust 
Lies  mixed  with  murderers  and  other  crew 
Whom  justice  justly  did  to  death  pursue. 
But  as  for  them  no  cause  was  to  be  found, 
Worthy  of  death  but  only  they  were  found 
Constant  and  steadfast  and  zealous;  witnessing 
For  the  prerogatives  of  Christ  their  King, 
Which  truths  were  sealed  by  famous  Outline's  head, 
And  all  along  to  Mr.  Renwick's  blood 
Reproaches,  torments,  deaths  and  injuries 
But  yet  they're  those  who  from  such  troubles  came 
And  now  triumph  in  glory  with  the  Lamb." 

About  18,000  buried  here. 

Reference,  "Cloud  of  Witnesses,  Crookshanks." 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  came  across  also  another  very  curious  inscription  on  the 
grave  of  Mrs.  Peter  LesHe. 

"She  was! 

But  words  are  wanting 

To  say  what! 

Think  what  a  wife  should  be 

And  she  was  that. 

i8i8." 

At  one  o'clock  we  left  for  Stirling,  and  arrived  there  at  the 
end  of  one  hour.  Leaving  our  things  at  the  station  we  walked 
up  to  the  church  and  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  the  Earl  of  Mar.  In 
this  church  James  6th  was  crowned  King  of  Scotland,  John 
Knox  preaching  the  coronation  sermon.  Stirling  castle  was 
originally  a  Roman  fortress  and  has  since  been  a  favorite  resi- 
dence of  the  Scottish  Kings.  They  show  to  visitors  the  room 
where  James  2nd  stabbed  the  Earl  of  Douglas  on  his  refusing 
to  renounce  his  share  in  a  conspiracy  formed  among  three  or 
four  powerful  nobles  for  mutual  protection,  even  against  the 
King,  and  exclaiming,  "If  thou  wilt  not  break  the  bond,  this 
shall."  The  scene  took  place  in  the  secret  council  room  adjoin- 
ing the  Star  Chamber  and  his  body  was  thrown  out  of  a  small 
window  and  interred  near  by.  In  1797  some  masons,  while 
digging,  came  across  a  skeleton  which  was  supposed  to  be  the 
remains  of  the  Earl. 

In  the  old  churchyard  adjoining  the  Castle  I  came  across 
another  funny  inscription  and  will  write  it  down  as  I  like  to 
keep  such  things. 

"Our  life  is  but  a  winter  day, 
Some  only  breakfast  and  away, 
Others  to  dinner  stay 
And  are  full  fed. 
The  oldest  man  but  sups 
And  goes  to  bed. 
Large  is  his  debt 
That  lingers  out  the  day 
He  that  goes  soonest. 
Has  the  least  to  pay." 


SCOTLAND 

From  the  castle  twelve  battlefields  may  be  seen,  among  them 
that  of  Bannockburn.  We  met  any  quantity  of  Highlanders 
coming  down  from  the  Castle,  which  is  now  a  military  station 
and  were  much  amused,  tho  a  little  disgusted,  with  the  costume. 
At  the  same  time  I  must  say  it  is  a  very  beautiful  and  striking 
one.  It  seems  funny  to  see  a  man  with  bare  legs,  his  red  and 
white  plaid  stockings  not  coming  half  way  up  to  the  knees, 
these  are  fastened  with  handsome  red  garters  and  the  pleated 
kilts  don't  come  down  to  the  knees.  Then  they  had  on  tight 
fitting  white  jackets  with  a  mass  of  white  tassels  hanging  down 
in  front  and  tremendous  black  hairy  caps.  I  couldn't  help 
feeling  that  it  w^as  a  romantic  sight,  these  Highlanders  in 
their  strange  costumes  pacing  the  walls  of  the  castle  and  in  the 
distance  the  very  Highlands  themselves  which  we  shall  soon 
be  among. 

The  Earl  of  Mar  was  a  great  villain  it  seems  and  that  he 
was  conscious  of  it  is  proved  by  the  inscriptions  over  the  doors 
of  his  ruined  house. 

"The  moir  I  stand  on  oppin  hitht 
My  faultis  moir  subject  as  to  sitht 
I  pray  al  luikaris  on  this  luging 
Vith  gentil  e  to  gif  thair  juging." 

which,  translated,  is 

"The  more  I  stand  on  oppin  height 
Aly  faults  more  subject  are  to  sight, 
I  pray  all  lookers  on  this  lodging 
\Mth  gentle  eye  to  give  their  judging." 

I  am  writing  this  at  Perth,  where  we  are  spending  the  night. 
Perth  is  made  famous  by  Scott's  novel,  "The  Fair  Maid  of 
Perth." 

Banavie,  August  7th.   1870. 

From  Perth  to  Inverness,  by  the  way  of  Aberdeen,  was  a 

delightful  journey,  tho  the  scenery  was  not  as  grand  as  by  the 

Highland  railway.     We  were  unable  to  change  our  tickets  or 

we  should  have  taken  the  latter  route. 

123 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  came  near  havingtrouble  with  ourbaggage  at  Aberdeen. 
The  train  was  behind  time  and  we  had  to  rush  for  seats  while 
the  gentlemen  attended  to  the  baggage.  Arrived  at  Keith 
father  found  his  valise  was  "non  est."  You  never  saw  a  man 
look  so  crestfallen — he  began  to  threaten  immediately  to  return 
to  ^''WAmerique,''^  as  he  always  calls  home.  All  his  new  clothes 
were  in  it  and  a  new^  blanket  shawl  that  mother  had  just 
bought — but  it  turned  up  at  Inverness  and  "Richard  was  him- 
self again."  Then  there  was  another  adventure.  After  we 
left  Aberdeen  the  train  stopped  all  of  a  sudden  and  on  looking 
out  we  saw  several  w^omen  screaming  and  taking  on  dreadfully, 
but  it  was  a  long  time  before  we  found  out  what  was  the  matter. 
It  finally  turned  out  that  these  women  had  been  in  one  com- 
partment of  a  car  next  to  a  horse  (they  were  common  fishing 
women)  and  the  horse  had  broken  through  the  partition,  at 
least  almost  through,  and  had  frightened  these  women  so  that 
they  jumped  off  while  the  train  was  running  and  one  of  them 
was  somewhat  hurt,  and  they  had  to  back  down  the  train 
for  her. 

On  the  way  to  Inverness  is  the  battle  field  of  Culloden  and 
not  far  beyond  it  we  saw  the  heath  near  the  Castle  of  Caudor, 
where  Shakespeare  makes  Macbeth  meet  the  witches  before 
the  murder  of  Duncan.  We  got  into  Inverness  in  time  to  take 
supper  and  in  the  evening  we  went  out  to  the  town.  The  river 
Ness  runs  through  the  town,  dividing  it  into  two  parts.  We 
walked  up  to  what  we  thought  was  a  castle  on  top  of  the  hill 
overlooking  the  river,  but  it  proved  to  be  a  Court  House  and 
jail,  and  we  got  into  conversation  with  the  old  keeper  who  was 
sitting  out  in  front.  Father  talked  with  him  about  the  connec- 
tion of  Scotland  and  England,  and  there  was  an  old  man  sitting 
next  to  him  who  kept  whispering  to  the  jailer  to  tell  father  that 
Scotland  was  an  unconquered  country,  that  they  had  never 
been  conquered. 

At  Inverness  we  took  the  Caledonian  Canal  to  this  place, 

travelling  in  a  small  steamboat.     We  passed  through  several 

beautiful  lakes,  Loch  Ness,  Loch  Oich,  and  Loch  Lochy,  as- 

124 


SCOTLAND 

cending  and  descending  from  each  by  means  of  locks,  dur- 
ing which  operation  we  got  out  and  took  several  walks. 
The  scenery  is  certainly  very  beautiful,  and  the  mountains 
are  even  grand,  though  the  highest,  Ben  Nevis,  is  not  4500 
ft.  in  height,  but  they  are  mostly  destitute  of  vegetation 
and  indented  by  deep  fissures  which  give  them  a  very  wild  and 
rugged  appearance.     We  made  only  one  excursion  during  the 


THE  CALEDONIAN  CANAL,  THE  WATER  JOURNEY  ACROSS  SCOTLAND 

day  (and  for  that  the  boat  waited  for  us)  to  see  the  Falls  of 

Foyers,  which  are  very  celebrated.     The  guide  book  tells  us 

they  consist  of  two  cataracts,  but  it  has  been  very  dry  here 

for  a  long  time  and  consequently  we  saw  only  one,  a  very  small 

affair.     I  can  imagine  though  that  it  might  be  very  pretty,  when 

there  is  a  full  volume  of  water,  which  by  the  way  is  of  the  same 

peculiar  amber  color  as  that  of  the  Falls  of  Montmorency. 

125 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Banavie,  Scotland,  August  8th.     1870. 

We  are  in  a  charming  hotel  here,  commanding  a  fine  view 
of  Ben  Nevis  and  the  Braes  of  Lochaber.  Charley  Greeley 
made  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  yesterday  morning.  They 
say  it  is  a  very  dangerous  mountain,  there  are  so  many  preci- 
pices. Charley  came  very  near  going  over  one  he  came  upon 
unawares,  but  the  guide  called  to  him  and  he  fell  back  immedi- 
ately and  saved  himself.  Some  man  went  up  from  Fort  Will- 
iam the  night  before  and  has  not  been  heard  of  since,  though 
they  have  sent  up  guides  to  hunt  him,  but  they  were  unsuc- 
cessful and  they  think  he  must  have  perished.  What  an  awful 
thing  it  is! 

Last  evening  we  walked  across  about  two  miles  to  an  old 
ruin  called  Inverlochy  Castle.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  thousand 
years  old,  or  rather  its  origin  is  unknown.  From  its  appear- 
ance w^e  judged  the  materials  must  have  all  been  brought 
there  by  hand,  none  of  the  stones  being  larger  than  a  strong 
man  could  carry.  We  stayed  there  during  the  sunset  and  had 
a  superb  view  of  the  surrounding  mountains.  Mother  went 
with  us  but  her  foot  is  feeling  sore  this  morning.  I  think  she 
uses  it  too  much.  We  leave  for  Oban  this  evening  and  thence 
to  Fingal's  Cave  to-morrow,  so  I  will  say  good-bye  for  this 
time.     I  am  afraid  you  won't  have  patience  to  read  it  now. 

Your  aff.  sister, 

M.  D.  R. 

P.  S.  The  children  ought  to  trace  out  our  route  on 
the  map.  The  party  all  went  yesterday  to  hear  Norman 
McLeod,  except  mother  and  myself.  We  were  so  sorry, 
father  says  he  is  the  finest  preacher  he  ever  heard. 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

Gotha  Canal,  Sweden,  August  22nd.  1870. 

Last  Tuesday  morning  we  left  the  pier  of  Granton,  the 
port  of  Edinburgh,  in  the  steamer  Scandinavia,  bound  for 
Gothaborg,  Sweden.  The  only  lady  on  board,  besides  mother 
and  myself,  was  from  Dublin,  and  we  three  had  the  ladies' 
cabin  together.  We  were  glad  there  were  no  more  of  us  for 
we  were  so  dreadfully  seasick  that  we  could  not  have  borne 
it  at  all  if  we  had  been  obliged  to  stay  in  our  close  berths.  As 
it  was  we  lay  on  our  backs  three  nights  and  two  days  without 
being  able  to  lift  our  heads.  I'm  sure  I  never  suffered  so  in 
my  life,  even  father  and  all  the  gentlemen  were  terribly  sick. 
That  German  Ocean  is  an  awfully  rough  customer.  I  can 
well  realize  that  the  Swedes  and  Norwegians  must  have  al- 
ways been  capital  sailors  to  follow  such  a  sea. 

About  forty-eight  hours  out  we  reached  Christiansand,  a 
small  town  on  the  coast  of  Norway.  The  vessel  stopped  there 
only  half  an  hour  but  we  had  time  to  land  and  take  a  look  at  the 
town,  so  clean  that  you  would  be  willing  to  eat  off  the  street,  and 
built  of  wood  principally,  all  the  houses  having  pretty  white 
muslin  curtains  and  windows  filled  with  flowers.  We  re- 
turned to  the  steamer  laden  with  cherries  and  going  straight 
to  our  berths  there  remained  until  the  next  morning,  when 
we  came  into  Gothaburg. 

In  the  meantime  in  spite  of  our  sickness,  we  had  made 

some    very    pleasant    acquaintances,    the    Irish    lady,    Mrs. 

McGusty,  of  whom  I  have  already  spoken,  and  her  husband, 

quite  a  prominent  barrister,  and  several  other  gentlemen  from 

Dublin,  also  lawyers,  and  three  young  Scotchmen.    This  Mr. 

127 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

McGusty  seems  to  hold  himself  a  little  above  the  other  Irish- 
men and  they  certainly  seem  very  cultivated  people  and  have 
been  very  polite  to  us.  The  others  are  very  witty  in  the  real 
Irish  way  and  have  kept  us  fairly  convulsed  with  laughter  a 
great  part  of  the  time. 

We  were  all  thankful  enough  to  be  on  shore  once  again 
and  having  taken  rooms  at  the  Gotha  Kallare  at  Gothaburg, 
we  "fixed  up"  and  then  started  off  to  see  the  town  and  observe 
the  customs  of  the  people,  and  found  plenty  to  amuse  us.  Al- 
most every  street  has  a  canal  running  through  the  center, 
fenced  in  with  iron  railing,  crossed  with  many  bridges  and  add- 
ing much  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  place.  After  walk- 
ing around  in  the  afternoon  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  out 
into  the  country  and  stopping  at  the  residence  of  a  rich  mer- 
chant we  ascended  a  rocky  eminence  in  his  grounds  from  which 
we  had  a  remarkably  fine  view  of  the  whole  town  and  sur- 
roundings. Driving  back  we  saw  quantities  of  the  Swedish 
peasantry  in  their  picturesque  costumes  which  remind  one 
much  of  the  Roman  dress  as  they  wear  the  bright  bayadere 
striped  aprons. 

The  first  evening  we  went  up  to  the  Park,  where  they 
give  concerts  twice  a  week,  and  had  the  good  fortune  to  hear 
some  very  fine  music.  The  Swedes  are  very  much  like  the 
French  in  their  tastes  and  in  fact  their  whole  sympathy 
in  the  present  war  is  given  to  the  French.  This  "caffe" 
and  garden  quite  reminded  me  of  the  summer  concerts  of 
the  Champs  Elysees.  As  we  came  away  they  played  the 
Marseillaise  and  they  were  obliged  to  repeat  it  several  times 
the  crowd  became  so  excited.  The  next  day  we  went  to  the 
museum  and  saw  a  collection  of  Swedish  paintings  which 
didn't  amount  to  anything  and  an  immense  whale,  the  largest 
in  the  world,  all  fitted  up  on  the  inside  as  a  ship,  and  we  all 
went  inside,  but  the  odor  was  something  so  frightful  that  we 
didn't  stay  any  longer  than  was  absolutely  necessary. 

At  the  hotel  in  this  place  we  had  the  most  delicious  apple 

pudding,  but  their  vegetables  are  dressed  with  some  kind  of 

128 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

sweet  sauce  that  I  found  very  unpalatable.  Saturday  even- 
ing we  all  went  on  board  the  "canal-boat"  which  is  not  like 
our  canal  boats,  but  a  regular  little  steamer  only  built  very 
narrow.  It  was  quite  funny  the  way  we  were  packed  in,  there 
was  such  a  crowd  of  people  on  board.  The  boat  started  at 
two  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  we  got  up  at  eight  just  in  time 
to  see  the  celebrated  TroUhatten  falls. 

To  see  them  we  had  to  take  a  two  mile  walk  through 
the  woods  while  the  boat  was  lifted  through  a  series  of  locks 
and  to  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  falls,  the  only  thing  of 
the  kind  in   Europe,    I  believe.     We  had  a   delightful  walk 


THE  GOTA  CANAL,  SWEDEN 

through  the  fine  old  pine  woods  and  soon  came  to  the  falls, 
which  are  the  finest  in  Europe  with  the  exception  of  Schaff- 
hausen.  Crossing  over  to  an  island  in  the  middle  of  the  stream 
we  had  the  full  benefit  of  the  roar  and  rush  of  the  waters 
and  it  was  exceedingly  fine.  Passing  beyond  we  met  the  boat, 
again  embarking. 

At  three  o'clock  we  had  our  dinner  on  deck  under  the  awn- 
ing, a  course  which  we  much  preferred  to  eating  down  in  the 
close  cabin.  They  begin  a  meal  in  Sweden  by  eating  bread 
and  butter  and  cold  meats  and  partaking  of  a  sort  of  stimu- 
lant called  "Pomerania"  standing  at  a  side  table,  then  they 
sit  down  and  take  soup  and  afterwards  meat  and  then  comes 

9  129 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

fish,  the  last  thing  before  their  dessert.  These  latter  were  al- 
ways very  fine.  On  this  day  in  particular  they  brought  on 
plum  pudding  and  a  sauce  which  was  on  fire  and  we  had  great 
fun  helping  ourselves  to  it,  the  wind  would  blow  the  flame  right 
into  our  faces. 

Travelling  in  this  way  we  spent  three  days  passing  through 
Lake  Wener  the  third  largest  lake  in  Europe,  and  Lake  Wetter. 
We  often  got  out  to  walk  when  the  steamer  passed  through 
locks  and  that  added  much  to  our  enjoyment.  In  one  place 
the  name  of  which  I  cannot  call  to  mind,  we  entered  into  a 
large  building  which  looked  like  a  sort  of  castle,  and  the  foun- 
dations of  which  appeared  very  ancient,  being  built  of  huge 
boulders.  Over  th^  door  was  the  inscription — "Meuni  Maxi- 
mum a  Domino. "  At  another  time  we  got  off  and  walked 
through  a  village  where  we  saw  a  huge  May  Pole  ornamented 
with  flowers  and  ribbons  which  brought  to  mind  Longfellow's 
description  of  a  Swedish  village  scene  and  May  Dance  written 
as  a  preface  to  "the  Children  of  the  Lord's  Supper." 

At  another  time  we  visited  the  most  ancient  church  in  Swe- 
den, a  little  old  tumbledown  affair,  but  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing places  I  ever  saw.  There  were  two  tombs  of  Kings  in  it  with 
great  gilt  crowns  suspended  from  the  ceiling  over  them.  In 
one  of  the  side  chapels  was  a  collection  of  coffins  entirely 
different  from  anything  I  have  ever  seen  in  any  museum. 
They  were  piled  up  one  upon  another,  painted  in  red  ground 
with  gaudy  pictures  all  over  them. 

We  arrived  at  Stockholm  about  noon  of  the  third  day  and 

were  met  at  the  landing  by  a  Commissionaire  who  had  come 

down  to  meet  us  with  fine  open  carriages  and  said  he  had  rooms 

already  engaged  for  us,  that  they  had  been  telegraphed  at  the 

hotel  that  we  were  coming.    We  could  not  understand  the  cause 

but  thought  we  would  go  on  so  we  drove  up  to  the  hotel  in  style 

and  were  ushered  into  rooms  furnished  in  the  most  elegant  style, 

all  gold  and  upholstered  with  blue.     The  very  rooms  occupied 

by  Burlingame  and  the  Chinese  Embassy.     They  must  have 

thought  we  were  great  bugs  by  the  way  they  treated  us. 

130 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

We  expected  to  find  Stockholm  rather  behind  the  times,  in- 
stead of  that  we  found  it  a  hvely,  gay  place,  more  like  a  small 
Paris  than  anything  else.  That  afternoon  I  went  riding  with 
Adr.  and  Mrs.  McGusty  through  the  Djurgatan  or  Deer  Park, 
which  is  the  great  park  of  Stockholm,  and  by  many  considered 
the  finest  park  in  Europe.  The  city  is  built  on  three  islands,  all 
connected  with  bridges,  which  gives  the  city  a  highly  pictur- 
esque appearance.  Our  hotel  was  situated  in  the  place  of 
Gustavus  Adolphus,  immediately  opposite  the  royal  palace.  It 
is  a  fine,  well-built  city  and  the  people  are  fine  looking  and  in- 
teresting in  their  appearance. 

That  evening  we  took  one  of  the  little  steamers,  which 
take  the  place  of  omnibuses  in  other  cities,  and  went  to 
one  of  the  public  gardens,  where  we  heard  a  fine  concert 
and  saw  a  grand  display  of  fireworks.  The  next  day  we 
went  through  the  royal  palace  and  thought  it  the  finest 
one  we  had  ever  seen.  We  were  most  interested  in  the  pri- 
vate apartments  of  the  king  and  queen.  In  the  apartments 
of  the  former  we  were  admitted  just  as  he  had  left  them.  He 
is  an  artist  of  no  mean  order,  and  we  saw  the  paintings  which 
he  is  now  at  work  on,  his  sleeping  room  which  is  as  plain  and 
unpretending  as  possible,  his  smoking  room  and  fine  collec- 
tion of  pipes  and  meerschaums  and  his  little  "armoury,"  con- 
taining a  rare  collection  of  costly  antiques.  There  we  saw  a 
set  of  Colt's  revolvers  sent  as  a  present  to  him  from  Abraham 
Lincoln.  These  rooms  may  be  called  his  sanctum  sanctorum, 
and  it  was  a  fortunate  chance  that  we  were  permitted  to  see 
them. 

In  the  Museum  we  saw  the  celebrated  boots  of  Charles 
the  1 2th  and  the  coat  in  which  he  was  killed  at  the  battle  of 
Lutzen,  also  a  collection  of  the  wedding  clothes  of  the  differ- 
ent sovereigns  of  Sweden.  The  most  interesting  place  in 
Stockholm  to  me  w^as  the  church  called  Ridderholm,  in  which 
are  the  tombs  of  Charles  the  I2th,  Gustavus  Adolphus,  and 
General  Bernadotte.     Their  tombs  are  surrounded  with  the 

131 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

banners  of  foreign  nations  captured  in  battle  and  the  keys  of 
conquered  cities. 

An  attack  of  neuralgia  in  my  face  prevented  me  from 
going  out  to  Drottningholm,  the  summer  residence  of  the 
royal  family,  but  some  of  our  part}'  went  and  told  us  that 
they  were  invited  into  the  dining  room  by  the  command  of 
the  queen  dowager  when  the  dinner  was  all  ready  to  be  served. 
Father  invited  the  American  minister,  Mr.  Andrews  from 
Massachusetts  to  take  dinner  with  us,  and  he  proved  to  be 
some  connection  of  mother's.  We  were  invited  to  take  dinner 
at  his  house  the  night  before  we  left  but  could  not. 

We  were  fortunate  in  seeing  the  king,  by  accident,  as  we 
were  looking  out  of  the  window  he  passed  on  his  way  from  the 
hunt  to  his  summer  palace.  He  had  on  a  green  hunting  suit 
and  was  a  very  fine-looking  man.  His  people  think  he  is  not 
quite  dignified  enough  as  he  is  very  fond  of  dispensing  with 
any  unnecessary  ceremony.  The  Swedes  are  the  neatest  peo- 
ple I  ever  saw%  and  they  have  the  most  delicious  food.  (We 
have  just  lived  on  salmon,  it  is  no  luxury  whatever  here.)  They 
are  almost  all  Protestants  and  w^ell  educated  and  have  that 
look  of  intelligence  in  their  faces,  which  is  the  distinguishing 
mark  between  an  educated  and  an  uneducated  people. 

This  little  trip  through  Sweden  will  always  be  remembered 
by  me  with  pleasant  feelings  because  it  was  such  a  rest  from 
ordinary  travelling  and  the  country  was  more  than  ordinarily 
interesting. 

Our  whole  party  came  to  the  conclusion  that  travelling 
by  canal,  though  it  sounds  a  little  primitive,  is  a  most  de- 
lightful way  of  locomotion. 

Finland, 

Steamer  Wiborg,  Aug.  26th,  1870. 

We  left  Stockholm  this  morning  at  two  o'clock,  having 

come  on  board  last  night.     Here  some  of  our  party  left  us,  to 

return,  and  the  American  minister  came  down  to  see  us  off. 

From  eight  to  eleven  this  morning  it  was  so  rough  that  we 

132 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

were  obliged  to  He  In  bed  until  we  reached  the  Aland  Islands. 
Since  then  it  has  been  quite  smooth.  The  scenery  is  very 
much  the  same  thing  all  the  time,  flat  rocks  covered 
with  pine  trees.  We  reached  this  place  at  nine  o'clock 
this  evening  and  have  just  returned  from  a  stroll  around 
the  town. 

We  were  surprised  to  find  it  quite  a  large  well-built  town, 
having  expected  to  find  it  a  mere  village.  It  was  too  late  to  enter 
the  cathedral,  the  chief  point  of  interest,  so  we  had  to  content 
ourselves  with  looking  at  the  outside,  as  we  start  off  very 
early  to-morrow  morning.  It  is  an  immense  structure  built 
of  great  boulders,  fastened  together  with  cement — it  is  in  the 
crypts  of  this  church  the  coffins  are  left  half  open,  exposing 
the  embalmed  bodies  ready  for  the  resurrection.  It  must  be 
a  horrible  sight,  but  one  I  should  have  ventured  to  look  at  if 
I  had  had  the  opportunity.  This  church  was  built  six 
hundred  years  ago,  the  first  means  of  introducing  Christianity 
into  the  northern  country.  On  our  way  back  to  the  boat  we 
stopped  to  get  some  lunch  in  a  very  attractive  looking  "caffe,'' 
but  couldn't  get  anybody  to  wait  on  us  so  came  back  and  got 
it  here,  having  found  everything  very  nice  on  this  boat. 

August  27th.     Helsingfors. 

We  have  stopped  again  to-night  at  Helsingfors,  the  capi- 
tal of  Finland.  The  scenery  to-day  has  been  much  more 
varied  than  usual,  in  some  places  quite  striking.  This  morn- 
ing we  passed  an  old  dismantled  castle,  the  former  residence 
of  the  Swedish  Kings.  The  Captain  told  us  that  we  might 
have  seen  there  the  old  stone  floor  where  Eric  somebody  used 
to  pace  up  and  down  until  the  stone  was  worn  into  deep  hol- 
lows. Also  passed  during  the  day  some  very  picturesque 
ruins  of  forts. 

We  begin  to  hear  the  Russian  language  now  and  last  night 
a  lot  of  Russian  officers  and  soldiers  came  on  board  dressed 
in  light  covered  overcoats  which  reach  down  to  the  floor  and 
while   it  rained  this  afternoon  they  threw  a  funny  pointed 

133 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

hood  over  their  heads  which  gave  them  a  very  wolfish  appear- 
ance. We  entered  the  harbor  of  this  town  just  at  sunset, 
when  the  whole  town  was  beautifully  outlined  against  the 
red  ground  of  the  sky.  On  arriving  we  went  at  once  to  the 
Russian  church,  an  edifice  built  on  a  high  rock  and  orna- 
mented with  minarets  in  the  Eastern  style  and  here  we 
found  the  evening  service  going  on.  It  was  quite  different 
from  anything  I  have  ever  seen.  Behind  the  railing  of  the 
chancel  instead  of  a  high  altar  there  was  a  sort  of  drawing- 
room  from  which  the  priests  entered  dressed  in  the  most  gor- 
geous apparel.  The  chanting  was  fine  and  it  was  very  in- 
teresting to  observe  the  conduct  of  the  worshippers.  They 
crossed  themselves  as  often  and  as  rapidly  as  possible  and 
then  falling  down  on  their  knees  bent  over  until  their  fore- 
heads touched  the  floor  and  then  rising  again  would  repeat 
the  same  ceremony.  We  didn't  stay  through  the  service  but 
proceeded  to  the  Lutheran  church,  a  fine  building  in  the  shape 
of  a  Greek  Cross,  with  a  large  open  space  in  front  of  it  and  a 
huge  flight  of  stone  steps  ascending  to  it. 

We  then  adjourned  to  the  Park,  for  our  supper,  and  heard 
some  very  good  music  besides  having  a  fine  treat  of  straw- 
berries. I  was  counting  up  to-day  the  length  of  time  that  I 
have  eaten  strawberries  this  year  and  find  it  is  five  months,  hav- 
ing followed  them  from  Italy  to  Finland.  They  use  such  funny 
little  carriages  here,  called  "drostkys,"  something  like  a  very 
low  basket  wagon  and  over  the  horse's  neck  rises  an  arch  of  wood 
to  which  the  reins  are  fastened.  We  think  the  Finlanders  re- 
semble Americans  more  than  any  nation  we  have  seen.  The 
men  are  very  distinguished  looking  both  here  and  in  Sweden. 

Wiborg,  Aug.  28th. 
It  is  nearly  midnight,  but  I  don't  like  to  go  to  bed  without 
relating  the  occurrences  of  the  evening,  as  we  get  into  St.  Peters- 
burg to-morrow  afternoon  and  I  shall  have  plenty  to  write 
about  there.  I  have  had  my  first  Drostky  ride  to-night  and 
I  can't  say  I  am  anxious  for  another.     They  only  hold  two 

134 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

people  and  it  is  all  those  two  can  do  to  keep  in,  they  shake 
about  so  in  every  direction,  what  with  the  speed  with  which 
they  drive  their  animals  and  the  jingling  of  the  bells  one  be- 
comes quite  confused.  Our  destination  was  a  country  place 
called  Mon  Repos,  the  present  residence  of  the  Governor  of 
Finland. 

We  found  it  a  beautiful  wild  place  full  of  moss-covered 
rocks  and  fine  old  pine  trees  and  with  some  very  pretty  water 
views,  but  quite  out  of  repair.  The  house  was  of  great 
extent  but  only  one  story  high.  We  enjoyed  the  ride  all 
the  more  that  we  have  been  so  long  on  ship-board,  it  is  now 
almost  two  weeks  since  we  left  Edinburgh  and  we  have 
come  all  the  way  by  sea  and  canal.  As  we  came  in  this  even- 
ing, it  being  Sunday  evening  the  sailors  from  the  neighbor- 
ing Russian  fleet  had  been  on  land  all  day  and  they  were 
just  embarking  in  the  tugs  which  had  come  to  convey  them 
to  the  steamers,  and  at  least  one-half  of  them  were  so  drunk 
they  had  to  be  pulled  and  hauled  and  some  of  them  carried 
on  board. 

At  about  eight  o'clock  this  evening  the  Captain  came  and 
proposed  that  we  should  go  up  to  a  ball  at  one  of  the  cafes. 
As  they  keep  their  Sundays  from  Saturday  night  at  six  until 
Sunday  at  six  they  think  no  harm  of  it,  so  we  all  went  up  and 
found  it  just  opening.  It  was  quite  a  pretty  hall,  dressed 
with  evergreens  and  with  the  band  in  a  balcony.  We  went 
just  as  we  were  with  our  old  shoes  and  not  even  gloves  on.  We 
found  our  Irish  friends  seated  at  the  top  of  the  room  in 
state  as  if  about  to  open  the  ball.  Almost  all  the  ladies 
were  in  short  dresses  and  in  fact  there  was  every  variety 
of  costume. 

The  Captain  told  us  that  many  Russians  came  here  to 
spend  the  summer  on  account  of  the  bracing  air  and  that  most 
of  the  ladies  present  were  Russians.  They  were  all  dressed  in  the 
worst  possible  taste,  but  there  were  some  quite  nice  men,  offi- 
cers from  the  Russian  fleet.  Two  of  them  came  up  and  asked 
me  to  dance,  and  as   I  couldn't  say  anything  I  was  obliged 

135 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

to  get  the  captain  to  apologize  for  me.  The  way  in  which 
they  take  their  partners  is  most  amusing.  They  go  up  to  the 
lady  and  stand  before  her  and  she  gets  up  and  dances  off  with 
them,  all  without  a  w^ord  said.  I  noticed  they  danced  much 
more  rapidly  than  w^e  do.  One  man  came  up  and  asked  me 
to  dance  (in  English),  so  I  couldn't  refuse,  it  seems  very  strange 
to  think  of  being  at  a  ball  in  Finland.  We  came  back  in  com- 
pany with  two  young  Englishmen,  who  have  been  shooting 
and  fishing  in  Norway  for  two  months,  and  they  were  telling 
us  about  the  national  soup,  made  of  all  kinds  of  fruit,  put  into 
a  sort  of  red  gruel,  which  they  say  is  delicious.  They  put  raw 
salmon  on  the  table  here  and  I  see  the  poor  children  eating  all 
kinds  of  fish  raw. 

St.  Petersburg,  Aug.  29th,  1870. 

We  passed  the  fortress  of  Cronstadt  this  morning  about 
nine  o'clock,  the  most  formidable  fortress  in  Europe,  sit- 
uated on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neva  guarding  the 
city  of  St.  Petersburg,  From  this  point,  eighteen  miles  from 
the  city,  we  could  see  the  gilded  dome  of  the  great  church 
of  Isaac,  situated  immediately  in  front  of  the  hotel  in  which 
we  now  are.  As  soon  as  we  had  arranged  about  rooms  we 
took  a  commissionaire  and  started  forth.  I  had  read  much  of 
the  riches  of  this  church  but  all  that  I  had  read  had  not  pre- 
pared me  for  the  reality.  It  is  impossible  to  appreciate  its 
richness.  In  the  first  place  the  exterior,  built  in  the  shape 
of  a  Greek  Cross,  has  four  grand  entrances,  each  one  guarded 
by  many  pillars  of  Finland  granite  monoliths  and  polished 
like  a  mirror.  They  are  60  ft.  in  height  and  seven  in  diameter. 
Three  immense  steps,  each  one  a  monolith,  lead  up  to  the  build- 
ing from  every  side  and  its  whole  extent — in  short  the  whole 
building  is  of  the  most  magnificent  proportions.  The  center 
dome  is  also  surrounded  by  thirty  pillars  of  granite  and  at  the 
four  corners  are  four  smaller  domes — on  top  of  the  gilded 
dome  is  a  huge  gilt  cross. 

On  entering  the  church  one  is  overwhelmed  with  the  mag- 

136 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

mficence  on  every  side,  floors  and  walls  all  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful variegated  marbles,  mosaic  paintings  of  the  most  bril- 
liant hues.  A  wall,  or  screen,  as  it  is  called,  separates  the 
inmost  shrine  from  the  eyes  of  the  vulgar.  The  several  doors 
leading  to  the  inside  are  of  openwork  silver  gilded  and  in- 
terspersed with  beautiful  paintings.  All  the  paintings  of  the 
Madonna  and  Saviour  are  surrounded  with  silver  and  gold 
frames  blazing  with  jewels,  thousands  of  diamonds,  most  of 
them  as  large  as  a  pea,  and  many  of  them  a  half  an  inch 
across,  to  say  nothing  whatever  of  sapphires,  emeralds  and 
rubies.  Then  forming  a  part  of  this  screen  are  ten  columns 
at  least  live  feet  in  diameter  of  real  malachite,  such  as  is 
used  for  jewelry,  and  two  columns  of  lapis  lazuli,  an  immense- 
ly expensive  stone,  all  from  Siberia. 

The  inmost  shrine  presented  by  the  Prince  Demidoff,  and 
costing  one  million  of  dollars,  is  built  in  the  shape  of  a 
small  circular  temple.  The  bronze  work  alone  must  have 
cost  enormously — the  four  grand  doors  are  finer  in  my  eyes 
than  the  celebrated  Ghiberti  doors  in  Florence,  and  on  the 
four  sides  of  the  exterior  are  bronze  bas-reliefs  of  the  grand- 
est conception.  A  bronze  railing  surrounds  the  outside  of 
the  immense  center  dome,  surmounted  at  intervals  of  three 
or  four  feet  by  colossal  bronze  statues  of  angels — then  there 
are  other  bronze  groups  disposed  over  the  building.  I  have 
attempted  to  give  you  an  idea  of  the  general  style  and  char- 
acteristics of  this  building  but  it  is  utterly  impossible  for  any 
one  to  form  an  idea  of  its  magnificence — all  the  riches  I  have 
ever  seen  at  home  wouldn't  be  noticed  here — it  even  cost  a 
million  of  dollars  to  drive  in  the  piles  that  the  structure  is 
built  upon.     It  was  built  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas. 

We  ascended  the  dome  and  had  a  fine  view  of  the  city, 
giving  us  an  idea  of  its  general  position  and  of  the  finest  build- 
ings— there  are  many  in  the  Oriental  style  with  gilded  domes 
and  minarets,  but  we  shall  see  more  of  that  in  Moscow. 
There  are  very  many  large  and  handsome  public  buildings 
and  imposing  palaces.     I  have  never  seen  any  city  contain- 

137 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

ing  so  many.  There  Is  one  church,  built  in  imitation  of  St, 
Peter's,  at  Rome,  called  the  Cathedral  of  our  Lady  of  Kajan, 
and  named  after  a  picture  of  the  Madonna  which  it  contains, 
covered  with  jewels,  one  of  them  of  almost  inestimable  value, 
brought  from  Kajan  to  Moscow  by  Ivan  Vassilievitch  and 
from  there  here  by  Peter  the  Great.  The  shrines  of  this 
church  are  also  very  rich — blazing  with  jewels,  but  it  is  not 
very  rich  in  marbles.  In  front  of  the  screen  is  a  railing  or 
rather  balustrade  of  silver,  and  all  the  columns  had  gilt  ped- 
estals. The  walls  are  hung  with  military  trophies,  flags  from 
all  parts  of  the  world,  and  keys  of  conquered  cities. 

The  lower  order  of  Russians  are  as  filthy  and  unattractive 
in  appearance  as  possible — they  wear  immense  long  coats  belted 
in  round  the  waist  and  I  have  seen  them  holding  the  skirts 
up  and  showing  a  sort  of  petticoat  underneath.  They  wear 
a  very  strange  hat  like  a  very  low  beaver  and  flaring  very  much 
at  the  top.  The  Czar  is  at  Peterhoff  at  present,  his  summer 
palace,  not  far  from  the  city. 

Hotel  d'Angleterre, 
St.  Petersburg,  Sept.  1st,  1870. 

Mother  and  I  have  spent  the  evening  looking  out  the  win- 
dow at  the  sunset  on  one  side  and  the  moon  rise  on  the  other,  the 
great  church  of  St.  Isaac  looming  up  immediately  before  us. 
The  great  bronze  angels  with  extended  wings  stood  out  finely 
against  the  red  sky. 

I  would  like  to  go  to  rest  to-night  but  I  had  to  go  to  bed 
last  night  with  neuralgia  in  my  face  and  so  neglected  to  do 
any  writing. 

Day  before  yesterday  we  spent  mostly  in  the  Hermitage, 
an  immense  building  reconstructed  from  the  old  one  built  by 
Catherine  II  next  to  the  winter  palace  as  a  place  of  retire- 
ment from  the  cares  of  state.  Here  she  held  conversazione  in 
the  society  of  artists  and  literary  men  who  were  obliged  to 
conform  strictly  to  a  set  of  rules.  Among  others  they 
were  not  permitted  to  speak  of  anything  which  took  place  at 

138 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

these  meetings — must  leave  their  rank  outside — and  to  be  gay 
without  being  noisy.  The  building  is  now  used  as  a  National 
Museum  for  painting,  statuary  and   gems,   coins,   &c. 

The  entrance  is  very  imposing — the  portico  upheld  by 
giant  figures  in  gray  granite — a  staircase  of  three  flights  of 
marble  steps  and  a  gallery  runs  round  the  top  ornamented 
by  statuary.  Many  of  the  halls  are  ornamented  in  Pom- 
peian  style  and  overflow  with  tables  and  ornaments  of  mala- 
chite and  lapis  lazuli.  The  collection  of  paintings  is  remark- 
ably fine,  there  is  not  a  single  picture  in  it  that  is  not  valu- 
able— it  is  rich  in  Murillos,  Guidos  and  Rubens,  Van  Dycks 
and  Rembrandts,  but  I  have  not  time  to  go  into  details. 

From  this  place  we  took  a  rowboat  and  crossed  the  Neva 
to  the  island,  to  see  the  original  hut  of  Peter  the  Great.  It 
is  a  curious  little  place  with  one  continuous  window  all 
round  it  and  a  second  house  has  been  built  over  it  as  a  sort 
of  cover.  One  portion  of  it  is  kept  as  a  shrine  and  here  we 
found  service  going  on.  A  child  was  being  baptized  I  believe, 
and  its  lips  were  touched  to  a  book  the  priest  held.  Here 
we  saw  the  little  boat  Peter  built  and  the  chair  in  which  he 
used  to  study  his  plans  for  St.  Petersburg,  and  a  little  foot- 
stool on  which  he  used  to  sit  outside  his  door.  Then  we  went 
to  the  church  of  Peter  and  Paul,  where  all  the  sovereigns  of 
Russia  are  buried.  Of  course  we  were  interested  in  looking 
at  those  of  Peter  and  Catherine  II.  The  tombs  are  all  alike, 
box-like  in  shape,  of  pure  white  marble  with  a  heavy  gold 
cross  reposing  on  the  top.  This  church,  like  all  others  here, 
is  magnificently  gilded  and  full  of  jewels. 

Further  on  we  came  to  a  little  boat-house  just  large 
enough  to  hold  the  second  boat  built  by  Peter,  which  was  the 
origin  of  the  Russian  navy.  The  attendant  gave  me  a  piece 
of  an  old  flag  conquered  from  the  Persians  and  at  the  church 
I  was  allowed  to  take  a  flower  from  a  votive  offering  on  the 
tomb  of  the  Czar  Nicholas — shall  put  it  in  my  album  among 
my  other  treasures. 

Wednesday  we  spent  at  one  of  the   Czar's   summer  pal- 

139 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

aces,  Peterhoff,  twenty  miles  from  St.  Petersburg.  We  went 
out  by  boat,  as  it  lies  on  the  sea,  and  then  took  a  carriage 
and  spent  most  of  the  day  in  driving  through  the  vast  park 
and  stopping  at  the  different  points.  In  addition  to  the  Pal- 
ace itself  almost  every  emperor  has  built  some  sort  of  a  pleas- 
ure house  in  the  grounds,  that  is  a  house  without  bedrooms, 
arranged  to  accommodate  the  court,  whenever  they  happen 
to  want  to  lunch  or  write   letters  on   their  little   excursions. 

One  of  them  was  on  an  island  to  which  we  were  pulled 
over  by  ropes.  It  was  a  perfect  little  gem  of  a  place,  built  in 
imitation  of  a  Pompeian  villa,  with  a  court  and  fountain  in 
the  centre  and  the  rooms  built  around  it — these  latter  were 
filled  with  beautiful  vases,  bronzes  and  statuary  and  thous- 
ands of  elegant  little  knick-knacks.  It  seems  as  if  they  ought 
to  be  very  happy  with  everything  in  the  w^orld  to  make  them 
so.  Quite  a  contrast  to  this  was  the  odd  old-fashioned  lit- 
tle palace  called  Mon  Plaisir,  built  by  Peter  the  Great  for 
himself,  with  its  low  ceilings  and  stiflF  uncomfortable  looking 
furniture.  In  this  house  we  saw  the  bed  where  he  died,  exactly 
in  the  condition  in  which  it  was  left,  and  the  kitchen  in  w^hich 
the  Empress  Elizabeth  used  to  amuse  herself  by  cooking  her 
own  dinner  sometimes. 

The  large  palace  is  very  plain  in  its  outside  appearance,  but 
has  a  very  attractive  interior.  It  is  decidedly  the  finest  pal- 
ace I  ever  saw.  In  one  room  the  walls  are  made  of  paintings 
representing  the  costumes  of  the  fifty  diflPerent  provinces  of 
Russia,  very  interesting.  In  others  they  are  one  mass  of  gilt, 
the  ceiling  as  well.  All  are  furnished  with  the  richest  materials 
and  in  every  possible  color,  and  one  or  two  entirely  in  the  richest 
Chinese  goods;  one  room  especially  was  striking,  having  been 
furnished  by  Catherine  II,  who  was  a  very  luxurious  person. 

I  often  wonder  what  they  do  with  all  their  possessions — they 
certainly  don't  have  time  to  rightly  enjoy  them.  In  front 
of  the  palace  are  the  great  fountains  thought  to  rival  those 
of  Versailles,  and  in  my  opinion  they  far  exceed  them.  The 
cascades  are  all  interspersed  with  gilded  statues  and  under- 

140 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

neath  the  sheet  of  falHng  water  the  stone  is  also  gilded  so  that 
it  shines  through  the  water,  giving  it  a  far  more  brilliant  ap- 
pearance than  the  ordinary  style. 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  great  Theatre,  where  Patti 
has  had  her  triumphs,  to  see  the  Russian  ballet.  On  the  way 
up  the  Grand  Duke  Nicolai  passed  us  in  his  carriage  and  hon- 
ored us  by  turning  round  to  look  after  us.  The  ballet  was 
called  the  Magic  Horse  and  was  splendidly  put  upon  the  stage. 
Some  of  the  scenery  was  beautiful  as  fairyland,  introducing 
real  fountains  illuminated  with  different  colors.  One  scene 
represented  the  bottom  of  the  ocean,  with  perfectly  natural 
whales  swimming  about — the  crawfish  and  oysters  joined  in  a 
dance  with  the  sea  nymphs,  very  amusing,  and  at  the  same 
time  very  wonderful.  During  the  ballet  all  the  Russian  cos- 
tumes were  introduced,  Tartars  and  Circassians,  and  the 
Russian  national  dance  was  performed.  In  the  audience  was 
a  Circassian  officer  of  high  rank  in  full  regimentals — it  is  a 
very  distingue  costume.  We  went  with  our  Irish  friends  and 
we  filled  two  boxes. 

The  next  day  we  went  to  hear  service  at  the  Convent  of 
Alexander  Neoskoi,  where  they  have  the  finest  singing  in  St. 
Petersburg.  It  is  a  very  large  establishment  containing  a  fine 
church  and  a  very  rich  shrine  called  the  shrine  of  Alexander 
Neoskoi,  one  mass  of  solid  silver  in  rich  designs  weighing  over 
3250  lbs.  of  pure  metal.  The  monks  stood  in  a  semi-circle 
and  chanted.  Their  singing  is  very  effective,  though  they 
are  not  allowed  to  use  any  organ  or  other  musical  instru- 
ments, but  their  voices  are  so  heavy  and  rich  that  one  don't 
mind  their  absence.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  tell  the  nuns 
from  the  monks,  their  dress  being  exactly  the  same, — of 
course  when   the   monks   have  beards  there  is  no  difficulty. 

That  same  day  we  went  to  look  at  furs  and  I  found  a  muff 
I  liked  very  well  for  66  dollars,  but  the  best  quality  were  from 
250  to  400  rubles  or  175  dollars  to  280.  We  put  off  buying 
until  we  come  back  from  Moscow. 


141 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

AIoscow,  Sept.  4th,  1870. 

We  left  St.  Petersburg  day  before  yesterday  in  the  after- 
noon. In  the  morning  we  went  to  the  School  of  Mines,  where 
we  saw  models  of  all  the  mines  in  Siberia  and  a  collection  of 
Siberian  minerals.  Such  quantities  of  gems  and  great  pieces 
of  gold  and  silver  as  we  saw — specimens  of  malachite  and 
lapis  lazuli,  amethysts  and  amber,  with  all  sorts  of  insects 
imbedded  in  it,  and  there  was  one  piece  of  beryl,  a  golden 
brown  color,  about  ten  inches  long  and  four  inches  thick  worth 
over  2000  dollars,  and  then  there  were  all  kinds  of  gems.  We 
afterwards  went  to  see  the  state  carriages,  a  gorgeous  array, 
I  should  think  fully  fifty  in  number,  all  of  them  gilded  the 
entire  surface  and  some  painted  in  beautiful  flowers.  Most 
of  the  gayest  ones  belonged  to  Catherine  II,  who  always 
had  her  own  portrait  on  them,  and  then  we  saw  the  covered 
sledge  Peter  built  for  himself  and  used  to  travel  in,  the  panes 
of  the  windows  were  about  two  inches  square  and  made  of 
isinglass.  There  is  to  be  a  court  procession  in  a  few  days  when 
these  carriages  will  be  used.  They  drive  eight  horses  for  each 
carriage  and  they  and  the  footmen  are  dressed  to  correspond. 
The  horses'  headpieces  alone  were  so  heavy  I  could  hardly 
lift  them  and  I  don't  see  how  the  horses  can  carry  their  har- 
ness and  a  postilion  besides. 

At  half  past  two  we  left  St.  Petersburg — did  not  take  a 
sleeping  car  thinking  we  would  run  less  risk  of  being  devoured 
by  insects  if  we  sat  up  all  night,  but  when  we  arrived  in  Mos- 
cow, after  a  twenty  hours'  ride  we  were  so  used  up  that  we 
shall  take  the  sleeping  car  in  future  at  all  risks.  The  railroad 
was  built  by  Winans  &  Co.  of  Baltimore  and  is  a  remarkably 
fine  one.  I  never  on  any  road  have  seen  such  large  and 
commodious  stations.  Up  to  half-past  twelve  we  got  out  to 
eat  at  four  different  buffets  to  kill  time.  They  were  al- 
ways crowded  with  people  drinking  tea  in  the  Russian  fash- 
ion, that  is,  out  of  a  tall  glass,  mixed  with  sugar  and  a  slice 
of  lemon.     We  find  it  very  good  and  prefer  it  to  tea  with  milk 

when  taken  alone. 

142 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

We  were  horrified  to  find  the  women  smoking  in  the  cars, 
as  well  as  the  men,  even  those  who  had  all  the  appearances 
of  ladies.  The  fleas  were  something  awful — everything  seems 
to  be  alive  with  them — even  in  an  apparently  clean  room, 
the  carpet  will  be  full  of  them,  and  as  they  poison  me 
dreadfully  you  can  imagine  in  what  a  state  of  discomfort  I  am. 

I  send  this  off  just  as  it  is  for  I  cannot  put  any  more  into 
one  envelope.  You  will  find  the  continuation  in  another  en- 
velope. 

M.  D.  R. 

Monday  morning, 
Moscow,  Sept.  5th,  1870. 

Saturday  afternoon,  although  we  were  half  dead  with  fa- 
tigue, we  went  out  for  an  hour  or  two.  All  the  sights  of  Moscow 
with  the  exception  of  two  or  three  monasteries  and  views,  are 
contained  within  the  Kremlin,  a  place  in  the  heart  of  the  city, 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall  and  situated  somewhat  higher  than 
the  rest  of  the  city.  This  is  one  mass  of  churches,  palaces 
and  towers,  blazing  with  gilt  and  brilliant  coloring. 

The  Czar  had  come  down  the  day  before  so  we  were  un- 
able to  gain  admittance  to  the  churches  or  to  the  palace. 
However  we  found  the  Tower  of  Ivan  the  Terrible  open  and 
passing  into  it  through  the  Holy  Gate  we  ascended.  The  Holy 
Gate  is  so  called  from  the  miraculous  picture  of  the  Redeemer, 
which  hangs  over  it,  and  all  persons  passing  under  it  are  ob- 
liged to  remove  their  hats,  no  class  being  free  from  the  condi- 
tion, not  even  the  Emperor  himself.  It  is  a  strange  sight  to 
stand  there  a  while  and  watch  the  different  classes  of  people 
passing  under  it.  The  drostky  drivers  going  through  at  full 
speed  w'ith  reins  in  one  hand  pull  off  their  hats  with  the  other 
and  cross  themselves. 

At  the  foot  of  the  tower  Is  the  great  bell  of  Moscow,  called 
Tzar  Rolokol,  King  of  bells.  It  was  cast  in  the  reign  of  Em- 
press Anne  and  is  67  feet  In  circumference.  Since  then  it 
fell  down  and  has  been  placed  in  its  present  situation  at  the 

143 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

foot  of  the  tower.  Among  the  forty  bells  now  hanging  in 
the  tower  there  is  one  which  is  larger  than  any  other  bell 
in  the  world,  and  the  others  are  graduated  down  from  this 
to  two  small  silver  bells.  The  effect  of  them  all  rung  to- 
gether must  be  very  fine.  While  we  were  standing  in  the 
courtyard  of  the  palace  one  of  the  smaller  bells  was  ringing 
and  we  all  thought  it  was  the  most  magnificent  toned  bell 
we  ever  heard,  the  tone  was  so  deep  and  rich,  and  it  seems  to 
harmonize  with  everything. 

From  the  tower  we  went  to  the  House  of  the  Holy  Synod, 
where  we  were  shown  the  robes  of  the  Metropolitans  of  Mos- 
cow, all  of  them  embroidered  with  jewels,  one  of  them 
weighed  forty-five  pounds  and  was  completely  covered  with 
pearls  and  cameos,  emeralds,  rubies  &c.  They  showed  us 
also  a  case  full  of  jeweled  mitres,  equal  in  richness  to  royal 
crowns.  But  the  most  interesting  sight  to  us  was  the  vase  in 
which  the  original  holy  oil,  the  same  with  which  Mary  Mag- 
dalen anointed  the  feet  of  the  Saviour  according  to  the  tra- 
ditions of  the  Greek  church,  was  brought  from  Jerusalem, 
and  also  the  silver  vessels  used  in  the  making  of  the  holy  oil. 
This  holy  oil  or  Mir,  is  made  once  a  year  in  this  house,  the 
whole  process  attended  with  great  secrecy,  and  all  the  vessels 
used  in  the  process  are  of  solid  silver  or  gold.  It  is  sancti- 
fied with  a  few  drops  of  the  original  oil  and  it  is  with  this 
that  every  child  in  Russia  is  baptized.  The  bishops  come  from 
all  parts  of  Russia  to  Moscow  at  a  certain  time  of  the  year 
to  obtain  their  share. 

The  next  morning  early  we  took  a  carriage  and  went  out 
to  the  parade  ground  to  see  the  Czar  drill  some  cavalry. 
We  could  not  get  near  enough  to  see  much  of  the  practice 
though  we  saw  them  rush  forward  swinging  their  swords  on 
each  side  of  the  horse,  and  then  we  had  to  rush  for  dear  life 
to  see  the  Czar  for  as  soon  as  the  drill  was  finished  he  was 
driven  away  as  rapidly  as  possible,  but  fortunately  we  man- 
aged to  drive  up  just  as  he  came  along.  He  was  in  an  ordi- 
nary open  carriage  drawn  by  two  fine  black  horses  and  with- 

144 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

out  any  footmen.      His  son  Vladimir  sat  beside  him  and  both 
were  wrapped  in  military  grey  cloaks. 

We  followed  on  as  far  as  the  gate  of  the  summer  palace 
and  then  drove  for  a  while  in  the  park  which  surrounds  it. 
All  this  took  place  on  Sunday,  which  they  do  not  seem  to 
distinguish  from  any  other  day  and  yet  they  are  a  very  devout 
people  for  all  that.  They  never  pass  a  church  or  picture  of 
Christ  and  Madonna  but  they  stop  to  cross  themselves  and 
say  a  prayer  and  as  those  things  occur  at  every  step  it  keeps 
them  pretty  busy. 

The  Russians  are  the  dirtiest  people  in  existence  and 
equally  ignorant  and  superstitious,  though  it  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  when  you  consider  how  long  they  have  been  enslaved. 
There  is  nothing  prepossessing  about  their  personal  appear- 
ance, their  countenances  are  stupid  and  treacherous  look- 
ing, but  the  higher  classes  seem  like  a  different  race  from  the 
peasantry.  They  are  quite  distinguished  looking  and  fash- 
ionably dressed,  but  the  greatest  eaters  I  ever  saw. 

Sunday  afternoon  we  went  into  the  different  churches  of 
the  Kremlin,  the  oldest  and  most  interesting  of  which  is  the 
Church  of  the  Assumption,  built  with  five  gilded  domes,  sup- 
ported on  the  inside  of  the  church  by  four  huge  frescoed  pil- 
lars. It  is  here  that  the  coronation  of  the  Czars  has  taken 
place  since  the  time  of  Ivan  the  Terrible,  and  it  is  considered 
the  most  sacred  church  in  Russia  and  is  full  of  tombs  of  the 
great  dignitaries  of  the  church  and  state.  In  one  corner  St. 
Philip,  who  publicly  rebuked  Ivan  the  Terrible  for  his  in- 
iquities, is  buried.  There  is  the  wooden  throne  in  which  the 
Czars  previous  to  Peter  the  Great  used  to  stand  to  hear  mass. 

All  Russian  churches  are  very  much  alike,  so  I  will  not  say 
anything  of  the  churches  of  the  Archangel  Michael  and  of  the 
Annunciation.  The  most  unique  church  in  all  Moscow  is  just 
outside  the  Holy  Gate  and  is  called  St.  Basil  the  Beatified. 
It  is  built  with  eleven  domes,  each  one  of  a  different  color  and 
shape,  one  of  them  I  remember  looked  exactly  like  a  pine- 
apple, and  the  church  inside  consists  of  eleven  chapels  under 
lo  145 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

these  domes.  There  is  a  tradition  that  John  the  Terrible,  at 
whose  order  the  church  was  built,  had  the  eyes  of  the  Italian 
architect  put  out  that  he  might  never  build  another  like  it. 

Just  at  sunset  we  drove  out  of  the  city  past  the  Empress's 
villa  to  the  Sparrow  Hills,  a  fine  eminence,  from  which  we 
obtained  the  finest  possible  view  of  Moscow  and  I  venture 
to  say  there  is  nothing  to  surpass  it  in  the  world.  It  was  from 
this  side  that  Napoleon  approached  the  city  and  when  his 
troops  caught  their  first  glimpse  of  the  beautiful  city,  they 
pushed  on  invigorated  by  the  sight  and  shouting  Moscow! 
Moscow ! 

We  had  an  opportunity  of  hearing  the  peasants  sing,  and 
I  never  heard  anything  so  funny  in  my  life.  A  lot  of  young 
girls  stood  in  a  circle,  holding  each  others  hands  and  walk- 
ing slowly  around.  One  girl  would  sing  a  sort  of  solo  without 
any  words  in  a  way  that  reminded  me  of  the  way  old  people 
sing  w^ho  have  lost  their  voices,  and  then  all  the  others  would 
join  in  and  as  they  always  sang  in  a  minor  key  the  effect  was 
the  strangest  possible. 

St.  Petersburg,   Sep.   yth. 

We  had  had  some  intention  of  going  from  Moscow  to  the 
Fair  of  Nijni-Novgorod.  A  very  celebrated  Fair  has  been  held 
there  for  ages.  People  came  to  it  from  all  parts  of  the  world, 
and  it  was  one  of  the  great  centres  of  trade,  but  of  course  it 
cannot  last  long  after  railroads  bring  the  different  parts  of 
the  country  into  communication.  Here  the  Tartars  and  the 
Persians,  the  Laplanders  and  the  Chinese  all  bring  their  goods. 
But  we  finally  concluded  not  to  go,  as  we  should  have  had  to 
ride  two  nights  in  succession  without  sleeping  cars  and  we 
thought  that  it  would  hardly  pay.  We  would  have  been  al- 
most to  China  then,  and  I  am  almost  sorry  we  did  not  go. 
Our  waiters  at  the  hotel  were  Tartars  and  they  look  very 
much  like  the  Chinese. 

Monday  morning  we  went  out  and  bought  some  Russia 

sable  skins  to  make  me  a  muff,  and  in  the  afternoon  started 

146 


SWEDEN,  FINLAND  AND  RUSSIA 

for  St.  Petersburg.  We  took  a  sleeping  car  but  were  nearly 
eaten  up  alive  by  the  fleas.  As  soon  as  we  reached  St.  Peters- 
burg we  obtained  entrance  to  the  Winter  Palace,  which  w^e 
had  not  been  able  to  see  before.  It  was  undergoing  repairs 
and  so  all  the  curtains  and  cornices  were  down.  We  were 
not  permitted  to  see  the  Emperor's  or  Empress's  rooms,  but 
were  admitted  to  those  of  the  empress's  mother,  the  daughters 
and  the  children's  rooms,  the  ball-room  and  others,  also 
to  the  very  plain  room  where  the  Emperor  Nicholas  died,  and 
the  clothes  which  he  last  wore  are  lying  on  the  bed. 

This  palace  and  that  of  the  Kremlin  at  Moscow,  which  we 
did  not  enter  as  the  Czar  was  there,  are  the  most  magnificent 
palaces  in  all  Europe,  and  it  is  of  no  use  for  me  to  attempt  to 
describe  them.  I  wish  I  could  give  you  a  faint  idea  of  the 
crown  jewels  of  Russia.  Of  course  we  saw  the  great  Orloff 
diamond,  which  is  set  in  the  royal  sceptre.  It  is  almost  spher- 
ical and  at  least  an  inch  in  diameter.  As  for  the  King's 
Crown,  it  is  one  solid  mass  of  diamonds  so  that  nothing  else 
is  visible,  and  round  the  base  of  it  is  a  chain  of  solitaires  each 
one  of  great  size. 

Then  the  Empress's  necklaces  are  something  wonderful. 
One  of  them  in  diamonds  was  all  of  solitaires,  the  pendants 
being  larger.  You  never  saw  such  diamonds  in  your  life. 
There  were  sets  of  diamond  trimmings  for  the  Empress's 
dresses,  some  were  in  Greek  patterns  and  others  in  more 
fancy  patterns,  and  a  string  of  huge  solitaire  diamonds  for  a 
belt  and  besides  all  these  there  were  sets  upon  sets  of  pearls, 
emeralds  and  rubies.  After  seeing  such  jewels  as  those  one 
would  never  care  to  buy  what  one  sees  in  shops.  The  chil- 
dren will  be  interested  in  knowing  that  the  Czar's  children 
have  a  play-house  in  their  suite  of  apartments,  fitted  up  ex- 
actly like  a  house  and  beautifully  furnished.  I  went  all 
through  it  but  I  had  to  stoop  a  deal  to  get  into  it. 

I  have  never  seen  any  city  I  liked  better  then  St.  Peters- 
burg. The  public  buildings  are  very  imposing,  the  shops 
magnificent,    the  streets    wide    and  well    paved  and    always 

147 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

crowded  with  people,  while  the  great  number  of  officers  in  the 
streets  gives  it  an  attractive  appearance.  The  funniest  sight 
was  to  see  mother  and  me  in  a  drostky.  I  think  I  have  de- 
scribed them  to  you  before.  They  drive  them  at  headlong 
speed  and  when  they  dash  round  the  corners  it  is  something 
frightful.  The  seats  are  none  too  large  for  one,  so  people 
always  ride  with  their  arms  around  each  other's  waists.  At 
first  we  didn't  like  them  at  all,  but  in  a  few  days  we  got  to 
be  really  fond  of  them. 


EN  ROUTE 

Vienna,  Sep.  nth,  1870. 

We  left  St.  Petersburg  at  noon  of  the  eighth  and  after 
a  dreadful  ride  of  thirty  hours  through  very  uninteresting 
country  we  reached  Warsaw  in  Poland  where  we  spent  the 
night  of  the  loth.  We  would  have  liked  to  see  more  of 
Warsaw — it  was  such  a  beautiful  looking  city,  but  we  were 
anxious  to  get  news  from  home  so  pushed  on  to  this  city, 
which  we  reached  early  this  morning.  A  fifty-four  hours'  ride 
is  beginning  to  tell  on  us,  and  besides  we  have  been  out  all 
day  shopping,  as  we  have  arrived  here  in  a  needy  state.  It  is 
a  beautiful  city  and  seems  to  be  very  fashionable. 

We  went  in  to  Vesper  service  at  St.  Stephens,  a  mag- 
nificent Gothic  cathedral  something  like  the  Milan  church  in 
elaborate  carving.  All  the  aristocrats  live  in  the  old  portion 
of  the  city,  the  centre  of  it,  and  what  was  the  old  wall  of  the 
city  is  laid  out  as  a  garden.  Vienna  is  such  a  lively,  jolly  sort 
of  a  place  we  should  like  to  spend  several  weeks  here  and  enjoy 
ourselves,  for  they  say  the  people  of  this  place  enjoy  life  more 
than  the  inhabitants  of  any  other  city  in  Europe. 


Munich,  Sep.  15th,  1870. 

Thursday  night. 

I  was  sick  all  day  Sunday  in  Vienna  and  so  father  and 

mother  stayed  at  home  and  didn't  see  anything,  and  though 

I  was  quite  miserable  Monday  morning  we  took  a  carriage 

and  drove  all  round  the  city.     We  all  remarked  the  clean, 

149 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

neat  appearance  of  the  people,  they  all  seemed  well-to-do, 
quite  different  from  the  Russians  in  that  respect.  We  drove 
past  the  Royal  Palace,  a  large  mass  of  buildings  with  an  open 
space  in  front.  The  streets  pass  right  under  it  and  through  its 
middle  court.  We  did  not  care  to  enter,  though  w^e  could  not 
have  done  so  as  the  Empress  was  at  home,  but  as  for  me  I  am 
sick  and  tired  of  palaces  and  don't  care  ever  to  enter  another. 

In  the  afternoon  we  drove  out  to  Schonbrunn,  the  favor- 
ite summer  residence  of  the  royal  family.  On  our  w^ay  out 
we  passed  the  new  Opera  House,  now  the  finest  in  Europe. 
Schonbrunn,  built  by  Maria  Theresa,  is  beautifully  situated 
at  the  foot  of  a  high  eminence,  the  side  of  which  behind  the 
palace  is  laid  out  as  a  Park  and  at  the  very  top  is  a  sort  of 
Temple  called  Glorietta,  from  which  may  be  obtained  the 
finest  view  of  Vienna  possible.  The  Park  is  laid  out  very 
much  like  that  of  Versailles. 

They  say  that  the  Palace  of  Versailles  is  used  as  a  hospital 
now.     It  seems  a  great  sacrilege. 

When  we  came  back  into  town  it  was  quite  late  but  w^e 
profited  by  the  remaining  light  to  see  the  Church  of  the 
Capucines.  In  the  vaults  under  this  church  the  bodies  of  the 
royal  family  of  Austria  have  been  deposited  for  centuries. 
Conspicuous  in  the  centre  is  the  sarcophagus  of  Maria  The- 
resa and  her  husband  Francis  and  they  say  she  visited  this 
tomb,  for  thirteen  years  after  his  death,  every  day.  Their  son 
Joseph  2nd  and  the  favorite  ruler  of  Austria  lies  at  their  feet. 
Marie  Louise,  the  second  wife  of  Napoleon,  and  the  young 
King  of  Rome,  are  also  buried  here,  and  Maximilian,  who 
was  shot  in  Mexico,  the  Arch  Duke  Charles  and  many  others. 

The  next  morning  our  first  visit  was  to  the  church  of 
the  Augustines  to  see  the  tomb  of  the  Archduchess  Chris- 
tine, designed  by  Canova.  His  own  tomb  in  Venice  is  a  copy 
of  this  one.  I  remember  writing  you  about  it  last  winter  and 
that  certainly  made  a  greater  impression  on  me  than  this  one, 
though  it  might  have  been  owing  to  the  time  and  place.  Here 
the  hearts  of  the  royal  family  are  placed  in  silver  urns  in  a 

150 


EN  ROUTE 

small  cell  into  which  you  look  through  an  iron  grating.  In 
one  of  the  chapels  are  the  tombs  of  the  celebrated  Gen.  Daun 
and  Van  Swieten,  the  physician  of  Maria  Theresa  and  of  Leo- 
pold second. 

From  this  church  we  went  to  the  treasury,  a  part  of  the 
Museum  connected  with  the  Royal  Palace.  This  is  indeed 
a  magnificent  collection  of  valuable  articles  of  every  kind, 
gold  and  silver  plate,  carved  ivory  work,  &c.  Here  we  saw 
the  Crown  jewels,  the  three  large  crowns  of  Austria,  Bo- 
hemia and  Hungary,  which  I  think  as  fine  as  the  crown  of 
Russia;  then  there  were  sets  of  rubies  and  diamonds  and  emer- 
alds and  diamonds  and  some  fine  pearls,  but  after  the  lavish 
display  of  jewels  I  saw  in  Russia  they  failed  to  make  the  im- 
pression upon  me  that  they  might  have  done  otherwise. 
Among  the  historically  interesting  curiosities  was  the  regalia 
of  Charlemagne,  taken  from  his  tomb  at  Aix-la-Chapelle  and 
the  silver  cradle  presented  to  the  young  king  of  Rome  by  the 
people  of  Paris. 

In  the  Imperial  Library  which  is  a  large  and  splendidly 
ornamented  room,  we  saw  a  rare  collection  of  illuminated 
manuscripts  and  rare  editions  of  old  works — the  original 
manuscript  of  Torquato  Tasso's  Jerusalem  Delivered.  We 
found  a  visit  to  the  Royal  Riding  School  very  interesting. 
The  servants  were  riding  the  most  beautiful  Arabian  horses 
I  ever  saw.  Such  beautiful  creatures  as  they  were.  One  of 
the  men  made  his  horse  dance  for  us  and  walk  sideways,  &c., 
all  without  saying  a  word. 

After  spending  some  little  time  shopping,  during  which  we 
met  the  Greeleys  who  have  just  come  down  from  Dresden,  we 
went  to  the  Royal  Picture  Gallery  called  the  Belvedere.  It  is 
the  second  in  Germany  in  size  and  quality.  I  was  particularly 
pleased  with  some  of  the  modern  paintings  by  German  Artists. 
Of  the  old  masters  I  liked  best  a  Madonna  and  Child  of  Van 
Dyke  and  his  Christ  on  the  Cross,  and  a  Madonna  and  Child 
by  Carlo  Dolce  and  the  head  of  the  Mater  Dolorosa  by  the 
same,  and  the  Ecce  Homo  of  Titian. 

151 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

In  the  evening  we  went  to  the  Folks-garten  to  hear  the 
celebrated  Strauss  band  play.  Strauss's  son  led  the  band  and 
he  entered  into  the  spirit  of  the  music  so  that  it  seemed  as  if 
he  were  about  to  whirl  off  into  a  dance  every  moment.  I 
never  heard  such  music  in  my  life.  I  think  it  would  almost 
make  a  dead  person  dance. 

Yesterday  morning  we  left  Vienna  and  were  obliged  to  stay 
over  night  at  Salzburg,  a  lovely  spot  in  among  the  mountains. 
The  Hotel  was  large  and  delightful  with  a  splendid  view  from 
the  windows  and  a  fine  garden  around  it.  We  walked  out  to 
Mozart's  dwelling  house.  It  had  a  harp  on  the  outside  and 
the  sign  "Mozarts  Wohnhaus.  "  It  was  pouring  rain  and  that 
with  the  sound  of  the  river  which  runs  directly  through  the 
hotel  I  could  almost  be  convinced  I  was  near  Niagara. 

Geneva,  Sep.  19th,  1870. 

It  is  over  a  week  since  we  left  Munich  to  make  a  hurried 
tour  through  Switzerland.  I  did  not  find  Munich  a  very 
interesting  city  outside  of  the  picture  gallery  and  the  great 
statue. 

It  took  us  two  days  to  go  through  these  galleries  and  we 
were  well  repaid  for  the  labor.  In  these  galleries  are  the  cele- 
brated pictures  of  beggar  children  by  Murillo,  and  we  bought 
copies  of  tw^o  of  them.  There  was  one  room  filled  with  pic- 
tures by  Adrian  Van  Der  Werff,  which  pleased  me  more  than 
any  collection  I  ever  saw — they  were  so  soft  and  beautifully 
finished.  There  are  many  gems  of  the  old  masters  also,  es- 
pecially of  Carlo  Dolce.  A  new  Pinacothek  contains  the  cele- 
brated Destruction  of  Jerusalem  by  Kaulbach  and  Schorus' 
picture  of  the  Deluge,  unfinished. 

We  drove  out  to  the  colossal  statue  of  Bavaria,  designed  by 
the  great  Schwanthaler.  In  standing  below  and  looking  up 
you  don't  get  the  faintest  idea  of  its  immense  proportions. 
It  is  an  immense  female  figure  clothed  in  fur  and  at  her  side 
crouches  the  Bavarian  lion.  It  will  give  you  some  idea  of  its 
size  that  seven  of  us  sat  down  inside  the  head  at  one  time. 

152 


EN  ROUTE 

Some  parts  of  the  royal  palace  were  very  fine,  especially  the 
ball-room  and  the  throne-room,  the  latter  is  decorated  with 
colossal  gold-bronze  statues,  representing  the  different  Bava- 
rian princes  and  Charles  12th  of  Sweden,  There  is  one  court  in 
this  palace  containing  a  grotto  made  of  shells,  very  elaborate 
and  beautiful,  and  in  another  part  is  a  huge  stone  weighing  364 
pounds,  which  the  Duke  Christopher  used  to  throw  a  great  dis- 
tance— there  were  three  marks  on  the  wall  to  indicate  the  height 
to  which  the  princes  used  to  jump.  Father  insisted  that  he  used 
to  be  able  to  go  as  high  as  the  lowest  one  but  on  making  a  trial 
he  was  altogether  unsuccessful. 

We  met  the  Hoyles  again  in  Munich  and  saw  quite  a 
good  deal  of  them.  The  morning  before  we  left  I  went  to  the 
cathedral  to  hear  an  extra  service,  it  being  a  grand  fete  day. 
It  was  terribly  rainy  and  no  one  would  come  with  me,  but  I 
was  fully  repaid  by  the  fine  music. 

We  visited  the  bronze  factories  and  saw  the  whole  operation 
of  bronze  casting,  the  amount  of  labor  and  patience  required 
is  something  wonderful.  They  are  at  work  on  several  fine 
monuments  for  America  and  Lincoln  Monuments,  one  each 
for  Michigan  and  Rhode  Island.  At  the  Arsenal  we  saw  some 
of  the  "trophies  of  war"  as  they  call  the  old  clothes,  canteens 
and  other  rubbish  they  have  captured  from  the  French. 
Among  these  trophies  was  a  soldier's  mattress  all  saturated 
with  blood,  a  horrible  sight. 

W^e  left  Munich  the  next  Monday  morning  for  Zurich  by 
the  way  of  Romanshorn.  This  town  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  lake  of  the  same  name  with  lovely  views  of  the  moun- 
tains in  the  distance.  The  next  afternoon  we  three  and  Mr. 
Whitelaw  and  Charley  Perry  went  by  rail  to  Zug  on  Lake 
Zug  and  from  there  by  steamboat  to  Arth  with  the  intention 
of  making  the  ascent  of  the  Rhighi. 

Arth  is  a  lovely  little  place  and  after  a  beautiful  walk 
during  sunset  we  returned  to  the  hotel  for  our  dinner,  where 
we  being  the  only  guests  the  landlord  had  laid  out  his  last 
penny  to  please  us.     We  were  quite  surprised  to  have  so  nice 

153 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

a  dinner  in  such  a  small  hotel.  The  only  drawback  was  the 
powerful  odor  of  the  stable  which  saluted  us.  In  searching 
the  next  morning  I  was  hardly  surprised  to  find  the  stable  situ- 
ated immediately  under  the  room  where  we  had  taken  our 
dinner. 

After  a  good  night's  sleep  I  rose  refreshed  and  went  into 
the  village  church  while  breakfast  was  being  prepared  and 
heard  some  very  pretty  choral  music.  At  eight  o'clock  we 
were  all  mounted  on  horses  pursuing  the  track  up  the  Rhighi 
— it  proved  a  very  easy  ascent  interspersed  with  magnificent 
views  of  the  Alps.  The  time  passed  so  rapidly  we  were  at 
the  summit  almost  before  we  knew  it.  There  is  a  large  and 
stylish  hotel  there  where  we  had  a  fine  dinner,  which  rather 
detracts  from  the  effect  of  the  trip  according  to  my  notion, 
but  the  panorama  from  the  summit  of  the  Rhighi  is  certainly 
wonderful.  Alps  piled  upon  Alps  nearly  all  of  them  tipped 
with  snow  and  then  the  beautiful  lakes  lying  immediately 
under  our  feet,  a  view  not  easily  to  be  forgotten. 

It  is  a  peculiarly-shaped  mountain,  rising  perpendicularly 
from  the  lakes  on  one  side  and  sloping  back  gradually  on  the 
other.  On  starting  to  descend  the  mountain  the  gentlemen 
started  to  walk  and  mother  and  I  were  to  ride,  but  after  a 
few  steps  father's  legs  gave  out  entirely  and  he  took  the  horse 
while  I  went  ahead  with  the  gentlemen.  We  went  so  much 
faster  than  the  horses  that  we  soon  were  beyond  them.  We 
somehow  missed  them  as  they  took  the  direct  path  to  Kuss- 
nacht  and  we  went  over  in  the  direction  of  Immensee,  to  see 
the  Chapel  of  William  Tell.  We  were  misdirected  by  little 
urchins  of  whom  we  asked  the  way  and  so  wandered  out  of 
our  way  at  least  a  mile  and  a  half,  making  the  descent  and 
walking  rapidly  without  resting.  I  can't  attempt  to  give 
you  any  idea  of  the  beauty  of  the  sunset  on  the  snow-capped 
mountains,  as  I  saw  it  from  half  way  down  the  Rhighi — every- 
thing one  blaze  of  rosy  red. 


ITALY 


Naples,  Sep.  25th,  1870. 

Here  I  am  way  down  in  Southern  Italy  and  have  written 
you  scarcely  anything  of  our  trip  through  Switzerland.  We 
found  the  chapel  of  William  Tell  quite  repaid  us  for  the  fatigue 
of  our  walk.  A  little  stone  building  with  a  steep  sloping  roof, 
situated  in  a  very  secluded  spot  and  covered  with  figures  and 
inscriptions  relative  to  Tell's  prowess.  A  mile  and  a  half 
more  brought  us  into  Kiissnacht,  where  we  found  father  and 
mother  waiting  for  us.  Of  course  I  was  dreadfully  tired  and 
so  was  mother  for  riding  down  a  mountain  on  horseback  is 
conducive  to  anything  but  comfort,  though  of  course  walk- 
ing fatigues  the  muscles  more. 

We  had  a  nice  supper  at  the  little  hotel  on  the  edge  of 
Lake  Lucerne  which  is  the  loveliest  spot  imaginable  and  early 
the  next  morning  drove  along  the  edge  of  the  lake  for  two 
hours  to  Lucerne,  stopped  at  the  Schweizer  Hof  long  enough 
to  take  our  dinner  and  then  took  a  carriage  and  drove  along 
the  Brunig  Pass  until  nine  o'clock.  We  often  speak  of  that 
drive  as  being  one  of  the  pleasantest  we  have  had.  As  it  be- 
gan to  grow  dark  we  commenced  the  ascent  of  a  mountain 
pass  and  we  all  got  out  and  walked. 

The  valley  soon  lay  far  below  us  and  in  the  distance  we  could 
hear  the  village  bells  and  then  for  the  first  time  we  heard  the 
Alpine  song.     Some  man  was  singing  it  way  down  in  the  valley 

155 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  we  could  hear  as  distinctly  as  if  he  were  quite  near  us. 
Charley  Perry  can  do  it  to  perfection,  so  he  often  answers 
it  and  they  will  keep  it  up  for  sometime.  It  is  very  beauti- 
ful when  heard  at  night  and  echoed  from  one  mountain  to 
another.  We  spent  the  night  at  Lungern  a  little  town  quite 
at  the  head  of  this  valley,  where  we  fared  sumptuously  and  had 
a  welcome  night's  rest  after  the  walking  we  had  done  during 
the  day.  The  next  morning  we  went  over  the  finest  part  of  the 
pass  to  Brienz. 

In  Switzerland  one  is  constantly  surprised  at  the  unexpected 
changes  in  scenery.  When  you  have  been  climbing  a  long 
time  and  have  reached  the  top  of  a  valley  you  naturally  expect 
to  go  down  on  the  other  side,  but  instead,  when  you  have 
made  a  few  turns  you  suddenly  find  yourself  quite  at  the  foot 
of  a  new  valley  and  you  don't  realize  that  you  have  made  any 
ascent  at  all. 

At  Brienz  we  took  lunch  and  then  crossed  the  lake  of  the 
same  name  to  take  a  look  at  the  falls  of  Giesbach.  The  falls 
in  this  country  are  such  small  affairs  that  an  American  always 
experiences  a  feeling  of  disappointment.  Giesbach  tumbles 
from  an  immense  height  not  in  one  fall  but  in  a  series  of  cas- 
cades, all  small  in  themselves  but  very  beautiful  when  you 
place  yourself  where  you  get  the  effect  of  the  whole  with  all 
the  cascades  in  view,  with  the  numerous  turns  they  make. 

About  four  o'clock  we  came  into  Interlaken,  just  in  time 
to  get  the  benefit  of  a  fine  sunset  on  the  Jungfrau,  w^hich  is 
to  me  the  grandest  of  all  the  Swiss  mountains  from  its  posi- 
tion and  inaccessibility,  though  not  so  terrible  as  Mt.  Blanc. 
Interlaken  is  in  a  very  small  plain  entirely  surrounded  by  high 
mountains.  The  hotels  are  ranged  in  a  line  facing  the  Jungfrau 
which  rises  beyond  a  gorge  between  two  dark  mountains,  which 
stand  like  sentinels  on  either  side,  completely  covered  from 
this  point  of  view  with  pure  white  snow.  It  does  not  show 
its  height  at  first  view,  but  nothing  in  nature  could  be  more 
magnificent  than  the  effect  of  sunset  upon  it.  The  whole  vast 
pile  of  snow  was  changed  into  rose  color  which  gradually  grew 
fainter  and  fainter  and  long  after  the  other  mountains  were 

156 


ITALY 

clothed  in  comparative  darkness  the  summit  of  Jungfrau  was 
tinged  with  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun. 

We  stayed  over  one  day  at  Interlaken  to  make  the  ex- 
cursion to  the  Grundelwald  glacier.  The  next  morning,  there- 
fore, we  were  off  at  an  early  hour  for  the  town  of  Grijndelwald. 
On  the  way  we  met  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Rogers  of  Cleveland.  They 
seemed  delighted  to  meet  us  and  we  all  got  mules  and  made 
the  ascent  together.  We  went  to  what  is  called  the  Upper 
Glacier.  It  was  very  dirty  and  ugly  I  thought,  and  only  en- 
joyed the  Grotto.  That  is  a  long  passage  dug  into  the  ice 
which  is  not  dark  inside  for  the  light  penetrates  through  the 
ice  but  the  process  changes  it  into  a  greenish  blue,  something 
the  color  of  sea  water,  which  made  us  all  look  more  like  corpses 
than  anything  else. 

On  our  way  home  we  heard  a  solo  on  an  Alpine  horn  played 
by  a  little  boy  who  stands  there  day  after  day  for  that  special 
purpose.  The  horn  was  at  least  two  yards  long  of  a  curved 
shape  and  part  of  it  lay  on  the  ground.  They  say  those  who 
play  rarely  live  long,  it  is  ruinous  to  the  health,  but  the  effect 
is  wonderfully  beautiful,  the  tones  are  so  powerful  and  yet  so 
sweet  and  carried  along  from  one  mountain  to  another  they 
come  back  to  you  again  from  the  distance  like  an  echo.  They 
also  fired  a  cannon  for  our  benefit  in  front  of  the  glacier  and 
there  was  a  remarkable  echo.  The  blast  was  taken  from  the 
cannon  by  a  mountain  and  hurled  from  that  to  another  and 
so  on  until  it  travelled  beyond  the  reach  of  our  ears  and  was 
left  to  the  imagination. 

Mr.  Rogers  is  much  thinner  than  he  used  to  be — says  he 
has  walked  all  his  flesh  off  in  the  mountains — a  very  easy 
thing  to  do.  They  came  over  in  the  evening  to  call  on  us  and 
the  next  morning  we  went  by  boat  to  Thun  on  Lake  Thun, 
where  we  used  the  railroad  again.  We  reached  Berne  the 
capital  of  Switzerland  at  noon  and  took  a  stroll  through  the 
town,  went  to  the  bear  pit  after  which  the  town  is  named 
they  say,  and  which  I  very  much  doubt,  and  concluding  there 
was  nothing  to  be  seen  there  went  on  to  Fribourg,  which  I 
will  describe  later. 

157 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Naples. 

There  is  a  magnificent  surf  rolling  in  this  morning  after 
the  late  storms,  but  it  has  cheated  me  out  of  a  trip  to  Capri 
and  the  blue  grotto,  which  I  was  so  anxious  to  see.  We  have 
been  here  four  or  five  days  and  have  been  going  over  the  same 
ground  as  last  winter  and  some  things  in  addition.  Day  be- 
fore yesterday  we  drove  out  to  Pompeii  and  on  the  way  back 
stopped  at  Herculaneum,  which  I  had  never  seen  before.  It 
seemed  to  me  more  wonderful  than  Pompeii  because  it  has 
to  be  seen  in  the  dark,  i.  e.  the  Amphitheatre.  Unlike  Pompeii 
it  was  overwhelmed  by  liquid  lava  and  is  very  difficult  to 
excavate,  so  that  they  have  only  dug  passages  through  in 
different  places. 

Yesterday  we  made  the  excursion  of  Baise,  the  favorite 
summer  residence  of  the  ancient  Romans  and  went  all  over 
the  classic  ground  of  Cumse  and  Lake  Avernus,  Cape  Micenae 
and  the  Dead  Sea,  under  which  the  ancient  city  of  Micenae 
lies  buried.  We  couldn't  get  mother  to  enter  the  Grotto  of 
the  Cumsean  Sibyl,  though  it  seems  the  Queen  of  Prussia  has 
done  it.  I  entered  for  the  first  time  the  hot  baths  of  Nero; 
they  are  dug  in  so  near  to  a  volcano  that  the  heat  is  intense. 
We  went  through  a  narrow  passage — had  to  walk  with  our 
heads  down  nearly  to  the  ground  in  order  to  breathe,  but  sev- 
eral times,  I  was  unable  to,  the  air  was  so  hot.  We  were  not 
in  more  than  five  minutes  but  I  was  wet  through  with  the 
heat  and  perspiration.  We  had  a  glorious  ride  home  by 
the  sea.  In  all  my  travels  I  have  seen  nothing  equal  to  the 
beauty  of  the  bay  of  Naples,  that  is  for  a  sea  view.  It  would 
be  delightful  to  have  a  summer  residence  on  the  road  be- 
tween Naples  and  Pozzuoli  on  the  high  land  overlooking 
the  bay. 

I  must  stop  now  as  the  omnibus  is  at  the  door  to  take  us 
to  the  station  for  Rome.     I  will  try  to  write  soon  again. 
In  great  haste, 

M.  D.  R. 


158 


ITALY 

Florence,  Sep.  28,  1870. 
Dear  Cliff, 

I  sent  off  a  letter  to  you  several  days  ago  from  Rome  and 
now  we  have  come  back  again  to  Florence  and  are  going  to- 
morrow to  Venice  and  from  there  over  the  Brenner  Pass  to 
Munich.  It  cannot  be  long  now  before  we  sail  as  we  shall 
travel  pretty  rapidly  up  through  Germany  to  Holland  and 
Belgium  and  down  to  Brussels,  where  we  shall  be  obliged  to 
do  our  shopping  unless  an  armistice*  is  declared  and  we  can 
get  down  to  Paris.  We  should  like  to  be  in  Rome  to  see  the 
entry  of  Victor  Emmanuel.  We  had  heard  that  it  was  to  take 
place  on  the  27th  of  this  month  and  had  expected  to  be  present, 
but  it  seems  he  don't  want  to  act  rashly  and  is  going  to  wait  for 
the  full  concurrence  of  the  other  European  powers.  I  don't 
know  whether  I  told  you  that  the  Pope,  ever  since  the  change 
in  his  affairs,  has  shut  himself  up  in  the  Vatican  and  refuses  to 
attend  to  any  of  his  duties — a  very  naughty  frame  of  mind  for  a 
man  who  has  just  proclaimed  himself  infallible  to  all  the  world. 

In  making  one  of  our  excursions  outside  of  Rome  we  passed 
by  the  place  where  the  troops  of  the  King  effected  their  en- 
trance through  a  breach  in  the  wall,  on  the  25th  of  Sept.  Two 
or  three  of  the  city  gates  and  the  whole  extent  of  wall  between 
them  are  quite  perforated  with  holes  made  by  cannon  balls, 
especially  the  Porta  Pia,  the  gate  named  after  the  Pope  him- 
self. The  Italians  seem  all  to  be  rejoiced  in  this  movement 
against  the  Papal  States  and  in  Rome  whenever  the  troops 
marched  through  the  streets  there  were  the  wildest  demonstra- 
tions of  joy  among  the  people. 

The  Italian  military  music  is  something  entirely  different 
from  anything  I  ever  heard.  The  bands  are  composed  entirely 
of  bugles,  all  playing  the  air,  and  their  marching  is  quite  an 
exemplification  of  the  old  motto  "every  man  for  himself — the 
devil  take  the  hindmost,"  not  that  they  march  out  of  order, 
but  that  they  go  so  very  fast. 

And  now  I  will  take  up  my  account  of  the  Switzerland  trip, 

*  The  Franco-Prussian  War  of  1870  was  prevailing. 

159 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

which  I  left  off  at  Fribourg.  The  finest  toned  organ  In  the  world 
is  there  and  a  short  concert  is  given  every  evening  for  the  bene- 
fit of  travellers.  Unfortunately  the  train  in  which  we  wished 
to  go  to  Lausanne  was  to  leave  in  the  middleof  the  concert  and 
the  celebrated  storm  piece  is  always  played  last,  so  that  I  had  to 
have  an  interview  with  the  organist  to  implore  him  to  play  that 
before  we  left,  which  he  politely  consented  to  do,  though  of 
course  it  must  have  spoiled  the  effect  of  his  concert.  It  is  of 
no  use  for  me  to  try  to  describe.  I  don't  think  anybody  could, 
but  it  seemed  to  me  that  the  wonderful  echoes  he  produced 
from  that  organ  came  nearer  to  realizing  the  "still  small  voice" 
coming  out  of  the  storm  than  anything  else  I  can  think  of. 

At  nine  o'clock  again  we  were  off  and  were  at  Lausanne, 
or  rather  at  Ouchy,  a  lovely  village  on  Lake  Geneva,  at  mid- 
night. Here  we  stopped  two  days  to  obtain  the  repose  we 
needed  so  much,  and  in  the  meantime  made  the  excursion 
of  Lake  Geneva.  As  everybody  goes  into  raptures  over  it 
(generally  those  who  haven't  travelled  very  extensively)  I 
will  omit  to  do  so.  I  flatter  myself  I  ought  to  be  something 
of  a  judge  as  I  have  now  seen  nearly  all  the  lakes  of  Europe — 
all  I  believe  with  the  exception  of  the  two  large  lakes  of 
Russia,  Lake  Ladoga  and  Lake  Poipus,  and  they  are  all  so 
entirely  different  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to  say  which  is 
the  most  beautiful.  As  far  as  I  am  concerned,  Lake  Como, 
take  it  all  in  all,  pleases  me  more  than  any  other. 

Geneva  was  very  uninteresting  but  we  had  to  stay  there 
a  day  or  two  in  order  to  get  your  watch,  but  finally  we  started 
off  one  fine  morning  for  Chamounix.  The  diligence  (which 
was  our  first)  was  a  funny  top-heavy  affair  with  room  for  25 
outside  and  for  nobody  inside,  and  the  five  of  us,  even  with 
aid  of  two  others,  young  gentlemen  who  were  going  the  same 
way,  made  rather  a  poor  show  in  the  roomy  vehicle.  When 
we  descended  on  ladders  at  noon  to  partake  of  some  lunch 
there  was  the  usual  admiring  crowd  of  male  bystanders  pres- 
ent on  such  occasions.     The  scenery  became  more  grand  at 

every  turn  as  we  approached  Mt.  Blanc  and  wound  through 

160 


ITALY 

the  narrow  valley  of  the  Chamounix  between  the  towering 
mountains  on  either  side  clothed  with  dark  green  firs  up  to 
the  line  where  vegetation  ceases  and  beyond  the  eternal  snows. 
We  found  the  Fields  and  Jessops  of  New  York  and  the 
Greeleys  just  returned  from  the  trip  across  the  Mer  de  Glace, 
which  we  were  to  take  the  next  day,  and  they  had  been 
very  much  disappointed.     That  night  I  saw  the  finest  sunset 


ON  LAKE  GENEVA 

I  shall  ever  see  in  my  life;  the  clouds  rolled  down  on  the  sides 
of  the  Mt.  Blanc  chain  and  when  the  sun  was  almost  down  the 
clouds  became  a  brilliant  red  and  above  all  the  brilliant  white 
peaks  towered  up  in  splendid  relief,  while  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Blanc  itself  without  a  cloud,  was  a  brilliant  mass  of  red  and 
then  when  the  coloring  had  all  faded  away  the  new  moon  at- 
tended by  one  star  appeared  suddenly  hanging  over  the  highest 
peak  of  the  mountain. 

II  i6i 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Venice,  Oct.  30th,  1870. 

We  arrived  here  late  last  evening,  after  a  long  and  fatigu- 
ing journey  from  Florence.  Do  you  know  what  is  meant  by 
asking  if  I  have  heard  the  Philadelphia  news  ^  I  suppose  it 
must  be  that  Frank  is  going  to  be  married  or  something  of 
that  kind.  Have  you  heard  of  anything  to  that  effect?  We 
leave  to-morrow  for  Verona  and  shall  soon  be  on  our  way 
home. 

Leaving  Venice  Monday  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Verona 
in  time  for  dinner.  Here  we  were  to  stop  all  night  in  order  to 
take  the  early  morning  train  over  the  Tyrol.  I  met  a  young 
Italian  with  whom  I  was  acquainted  and  he  took  us  round  in 
the  evening  to  see  as  many  of  the  sights  as  possible,  to  the 
town  hall  and  the  remnant  of  the  old  Palace  of  the  Scaligers, 
the  street  of  tombs  some  of  which  were  of  the  most  beauti- 
fully carved  marble  like  a  small  Milan  cathedral  in  minia- 
ture. We  could  only  get  an  idea  of  the  great  Roman  Amphi- 
theatre, the  most  perfectly  preserved  of  all  the  Roman  ruins, 
and  last  of  all  to  the  tomb  of  Romeo  and  Juliet  in  the  garden 
of  the  old  Capucin  Convent.  As  we  had  to  look  at  it  by  the 
light  of  a  lamp  it  was  on  the  whole  rather  a  quixotic  expedition. 

At  five  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  on  our  way 
towards  the  mountains  and  towards  noon  we  arrived  at  snow. 
We  were  not  half  prepared  for  such  cold  weather  and  suffered 
very  much  in  consequence.  It  was  rather  an  extreme  change 
from  the  heat  of  Naples  in  one  week  to  a  snow  storm  on  the 
Tyrol. 

We  formed  the  acquaintance  of  a  young  English  clergyman 
who  helped  us  to  pass  away  the  long  hours.  We  expected 
to  have  gone  through  to  Munich  that  night  but  on  arriv- 
ing at  Innsbruck  found  that  the  train  would  go  no  further 
than  Kufstein,  so  on  arriving  there  we  left  our  baggage  at 
the  station  and  then  proceeded  to  hunt  up  the  Hotel  de  la 
Poste,  which  was  considered  the  best  the  town  could  afford. 
We  found  it  a  regular  German  Gast-Haus  full  of  noisy  smok- 
ing beer  drinking  men  all  trying  to  see  who  could  exceed  the 

162 


ITALY 

other  in  making  an  uproar,  and  we  were  obliged  to  take  some 
kind  of  German  meat  for  our  supper  which  was  not  very  bad 
after  all,  and  to  sleep  on  feather  beds,  or  rather  between  fea- 
ther beds,  for  there  was  one  on  top  as  well,  so  altogether  we 
had  rather  a  funny  time  of  it.  The  Brenner  Pass  was  a  very 
grand  one,  but  we  were  prevented  in  a  great  measure  from 
seeing  its  beauties  by  the  inclemency  of  the  wxather.  The 
atmosphere  being  so  thick  with  snow  it  was  impossible  to  get 
an  extended  view. 

I  want  to  finish  the  Switzerland  trip  to-day  if  possible  so 
as  to  have  nothing  to  do  until  I  get  to  Dresden.  How  glad 
I  shall  be  when  I  come  to  an  end  with  all  this  writing,  and  yet 
I  hardly  feel  willing  to  return  so  soon.  The  F's  invited  me 
to  go  with  them  to  Egypt,  but  Father  and  Mother  think  that 
I  am  so  very  thin  that  I  ought  to  go  home  and  rest  and  de- 
vote myself  to  getting  fat. 

We  spent  two  days  in  Chamounix  making  an  excursion 
each  day.  The  first  was  that  of  Montanvert  and  the  Mer  de 
Glace,  of  which  I  had  formed  my  ideas  from  a  terrible  descrip- 
tion by  Miss  Bremer,  who  must  have  been  an  exceedingly 
great  coward.  The  reality  was  the  tamest  thing  imaginable — 
all  we  did  was  to  ride  up  to  Montanvert  on  horseback  and  then 
cross  the  ice,  where  the  passage  was  as  easy  as  walking  on 
land.  There  were  crevices  to  be  sure,  but  so  very  narrow  that 
I  stepped  across  them  without  the  slightest  sensation  of  ex- 
citement and  of  course  I  wouldn't  give  a  snap  for  a  trip  of 
that  kind  without  any  excitement. 

The  celebrated  Mauvais  Pas  has  an  iron  railing  on  each  side, 
so  that  one  couldn't  possibly  fall  oflF  unless  one  did  so  purposely 
for  the  sake  of  the  experiment.  I  was  sufficiently  fatigued  how- 
ever with  the  walk  to  be  glad  of  a  little  rest  at  the  Chapeau. 
I  forgot  to  say  that  we  were  photographed  in  coming  over  the 
Mauvais  Pas.  There  were  three  young  gentlemen,  tw^o  American 
and  one  English,  at  the  hotel  that  evening  and  we  had  an  anim- 
ated council  in  regard  to  a  move  for  the  next  day.  I  had  set  my 
heart  on  the  Grands  Mulcts,  the  next  most  difficult  excursion 

163 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

after  Mt.  Blanc,  but  the  trouble  was  to  get  any  one  to  go  along. 
Finally  Charley  Perry  decided  upon  going  and  I  induced 
Father  without  giving  him  any  notion  of  what  he  had  to  go 
through. 

At  six  o'clock  on  the  following  morning  we  mounted  our 
mules  and  started  off,  with  two  guides,  down  the  vallc)^     I 


CHAMOUNIX,    FOOT  OF  MT.  BLAiN'C 

was  well  wrapped  for  it  was  very  cold.     I  had  put  on  all  the 

flannels  the  family  afforded.     We  commenced  the  ascent  by 

following  the  bed  of  a  torrent  then  dry  and  after  a  delightful 

ride  of  two  hours  and  a  half  through  glorious  pine  forests  and 

along  raging  mountain  torrents  we  finally  reached  the  line 

of  vegetation  and  soon  after  the  Chalet  of   Pierre   Pointue. 

Glad  enough  were  we  to  dismount  from  our  mules,  for  we  were 

quite  numb  from  sitting  so  long,  in  addition  to  the  sharpness 

164 


ITALY 

of  the  autumn  air  at  that  elevation,  six  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea. 

The  proprietor  of  the  Chalet  we  had  encountered  in  the 
village  and  he  returned  with  us  and  set  himself  hard  at  work 
to  get  us  something  to  eat.  There  was  not  a  sign  of  fire 
about  the  house,  but  by  means  of  putting  our  feet  into  the 
stove  we  managed  to  get  them  warm,  and  as  to  the  rest 
we  had  to  trust  to  cloaks.  We  had  to  sit  for  some  time 
without  our  boots  while  the  guides  put  some  heavy  nails 
into  the  soles  of  them,  then  we  took  the  apology  for  breakfast 
with  which  they  furnished  us  and  having  each  been  provided 
with  a  leather  belt  and  goggles  we  went  upon  our  winding  way. 

We  first  climbed  along  a  zigzag  path  for  about  two  thou- 
sand feet  and  then  came  a  very  difficult  portion  of  the  way 
which  the  guides  told  us  was  the  most  difficult  portion  of  the 
entire  ascent  of  Mt.  Blanc.  There  was  great  danger  of  ava- 
lanches at  one  point  and  although  the  footing  was  scarcely 
two  inches  wide,  we  were  obliged  to  run  along  as  fast  as  pos- 
sible, holding  on  to  the  edge  of  the  cliff.  As  I  had  just  reached 
a  point  where  a  small  waterfall  came  dashing  down  over  the 
rocks  the  guide  shouted  for  me  to  go  faster  and  I  was  obliged 
to  dash  right  through  the  water,  but  as  I  don't  remember 
being  wet  afterwards,  I  suppose  I  went  through  so  rapidly 
there  was  no  time  for  such  a  thing.  After  this  experience  was 
over  we  were  on  the  glacier  des  Bossons,  and  I  wish  I  was 
adequate  to  a  description  of  the  wonders  we  saw,  and  the 
perils  we  braved. 

As  we  commenced  the  upward  journey  a  strange  pros- 
pect loomed  up  before  us,  tall  needles  of  ice  of  immense 
height  as  we  always  found  on  approaching,  though  at  a  dis- 
tance they  seemed  quite  inconsiderable,  and  at  Chamounix 
they  v/ere  indistinguishable.  The  greatest  excitement,  how- 
ever, was  in  surmounting  the  obstacles  which  presented 
themselves,  for  instance  quite  in  the  beginning  we  were  ob- 
liged to  climb  a  wall  of  ice  about  seven  feet  high  which  in- 
clined toward  us.     It  looked  quite  impassable  but  by  dint  of 

165 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

cutting  footsteps  at  intervals  they  managed  to  haul  us  up  by 
ropes,  and  then  we  came  to  a  seemingly  impassable  inclined 
plane  of  ice,  sloping  at  an  angle  of  about  95  degrees. 

Here  we  were  all  tied  together  with  ropes  and  then  the 
guides  going  forward  cut  into  the  side  of  the  precipice  so  that 
we  could  just  find  foot  room,  but  generally  for  one  foot  only, 
we  remaining  in  that  graceful  attitude  until  we  could  change. 
I  think  about  that  time  I  must  have  been  a  picture  which  would 
have  delighted  the  eyes  of  a  fastidious  critic.  With  my  dress 
well  up  to  be  out  of  the  way  and  a  huge  leather  belt  which  was 
not  well  adjusted,  and  a  knotted  rope  dragging  after  me,  some- 
thing after  the  manner  of  a  Capucine,  all  this  surmounted  by 
a  very  small  head  well  wrapped  up  in  a  blue  comforter  and 
ornamented  with  green  goggles,  and  to  cap  the  climax  a  huge 
thing  which  resembled  the  ruin  of  an  umbrella  fastened  on 
to  the  top  of  my  hat,  to  preserve  my  complexion,  the  guide 
said.  It  didn't  answer  that  purpose,  however,  for  it  kept 
flapping  about  like  a  huge  wing  so  that  I  finally  put  it 
back  and  then  it  looked  like  a  caricature  Aurora  Borealis. 
In  this  guise  I  wormed  over  the  glacier,  but  seriously  there 
were  places  where  after  I  had  gotten  over  them  myself  I  stood 
and  held  my  breath  while  father  crossed.  At  one  time  he 
stood  on  a  piece  of  ice  jutted  over  a  fearful  chasm  and  it  was 
not  over  two  or  three  inches  thick. 

There  were  dozens  of  just  such  places  where  we  were  in 
danger  of  death  every  minute,  but  finally  we  emerged  into  an 
open  space  where  we  had  nothing  to  contend  with  but  the  cold. 
We  had  reached  the  point  where  the  snow  never  melts  but  lays 
in  long  prisms  and  we  could  not  stand  still  one  moment  but  our 
feet  would  freeze  to  the  ice.  The  view  was  something  inde- 
scribable, the  mysteries  of  that  terrible  region  lay  before  us. 
I  can  only  leave  that  to  the  imagination. 

When  we  reached  the  top  or  rather  Grands  Mulcts  we  took 

a  lunch  and  then  started  down.    The  fatigue  was  terrible,  but 

after  any  quantity  of   slips    and   tumbles   we  got  over  the 

glacier  and  came  to  the  avalanches  again.    I  think  we  saw  five 

166 


ITALY 

or  six  during  the  trip.  Charley  Perry  just  escaped  being 
killed — we  heard  a  crash  above  us  and  jumped  aside  in- 
stinctively and  in  the  very  place  where  he  had  been  stand- 
ing an  immense  fragment  of  rock  came  dashing  down  at  a 
fearful  speed.  When  we  got  beyond  this  danger  we  amused 
ourselves  by  detaching  fragments  of  rock  and  dashing  them 
down  the  precipice  to  see  them  fly  into  a  thousand  pieces  as 
they  disappeared  into  a  fearful  abyss. 

Reaching  the  chalet  again  we  found  to  our  amazement 
that  the  mules  had  gone  back  to  Chamounix.  We  were  in  a 
dreadful  state,  had  to  walk  all  the  way  to  the  village.  Father 
gave  out  completely  and  had  to  have  a  mule  sent  back  to  him 
from  Chamounix,  but  I  staggered  on  with  Charley  over  narrow 
bridges  through  the  beds  of  streams  and  two  hours  of  dark  and 
after  having  walked  two  hours  of  the  hardest  kind  of  climbing 
up  hill  and  six  hours  on  ice  and  three  hours  straight  down,  at 
nine  o'clock  I  tottered  into  Chamounix,  my  last  remnant  of 
strength  exhausted,  but  with  the  satisfaction  of  having  suc- 
cessfully undergone  one  of  the  most  exciting  experiences  one 
can  have  in  Europe.  All  that  night  I  woke  at  the  slightest 
sound,  imagining  that  I  was  fleeing  from  an  avalanche.  We 
stood  around  the  fire  at  the  hotel  with  tears  of  joy  in  our  eyes 
that  night  when  we  thought  of  the  great  dangers  we  had  been 
allowed  to  go  through  unharmed. 

Leaving  Chamounix  we  came  over  the  Tete  Noire  with 
mules  to  Martigny  in  nine  hours  and  what  with  my  expedi- 
tions of  the  two  days  before  I  was  in  perfect  misery  when  I 
had  not  been  on  my  mule  more  than  two  hours,  so  I  tried  get- 
ting down  and  walking,  but  I  was  so  tired  that  I  was  forced 
to  return  to  the  mule,  which  was  the  most  uncomfortable, 
animal  I  ever  rode.  At  noon  we  met  our  American  friend 
Mr.  Tilney  and  took  lunch  together.  During  the  afternoon 
we  went  through  the  finest  part  of  the  pass,  following  a  narrow 
gorge  in  which  were  rocks  as  large  as  a  house,  which  had  fallen 
off  from  the  sides  of  the  mountains. 

We  were  high  up  above  it  all,  the  road  winding  along  the 

167 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

edge  of  the  precipice  and  completely  shaded  by  great  pine 
trees  under  which  the  rocky  soil  was  covered  with  thick 
green  moss  and  lovely  ferns.  Where  the  mountain  cropped 
out  it  was  black  as  ink,  as  it  name  signifies.  In  one  place 
near,  we  passed  through  a  tunnel  and  on  coming  out  had 
a  wonderful  view.  There  was  the  valley  far  below  us 
which   had   suddenly  widened   out   in   a   circular  form,   and 


MARTIGNY 

in  the  centre  was  a  miniature  mountain  rising  from  the  valley 
like  an  island  from  the  sea.  Thankful  enough  we  were  to 
get  to  Martigny — so  stiff  we  could  hardly  reach  our  rooms, 
however. 

We  found  the  place  besieged  by  a  boys'  school  from  Vevay 
making  a  short  tour.  They  had  taken  possession  of  the 
table  d'hote  and  we  had  to  do  the  best  we  could.  More 
than  half  of  them  were  American  and  English  boys,  and 
they  were  so  delighted  they  couldn't  conceal  any  of  it.    Then 

i68 


ITALY 

next  morning  there  was  a  formidable  array  of  mules  on 
the  open  place  in  front  of  the  hotel,  provided  for  one-half 
of  them,  so  they  could  take  turns.  I  suppose  all  the  little  bits 
of  fellows  got  on  them  and  started  off  in  great  glee,  I  couldn't 
help  feeling  sorry  for  the  poor  little  things  left  off  here 
alone.  That  morning  we  took  the  rail  to  Lion  and  then  the 
diligence  to  Brigue,  where  we  arrived  in  time  for  an  excellent 
dinner.  We  hadn't  intended  to  open  the  trunk,  but  father 
in  poking  about  the  town  had  found  an  old  shoe  shop  and 
thought  he  would  have  the  nails  taken  out  of  his  boots,  and 
finding  it  was  going  to  take  more  time  than  he  expected  sent 
back  for  his  slippers  and  so  we  had  to  pull  everything  out  and 
hunt  after  them. 

We  were  obliged  to  get  up  at  five  o'clock  the  next  morn- 
ing in  order  to  go  by  the  Pass  of  the  Simplon  and  to  reach 
Arona  that  night.  The  ascent  was  all  well  enough  and  we 
had  quite  a  gay  time  of  it — there  were  four  large  diligences 
and  several  carriage  loads.  We  reached  the  Hospice,  or  high- 
est point  of  the  Pass,  at  about  noon. 

This  is  an  establishment  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  the 
St.  Bernard,  where  monks  reside  and  entertain  strangers. 
There  were  also  some  St.  Bernard  dogs,  which  are  all  tan 
colored  instead  of  black,  as  I  supposed.  They  have  fine,  in- 
telligent faces,  though  not  as  handsome  in  appearance  as  I 
had  expected.  After  leaving  this  we  descended  rapidly  and 
the  dust  became  intolerable,  but  the  scenery  was  so  grand 
that  it  was  worth  any  amount  of  inconvenience.  We  came 
through  the  finest  gorge  I  ever  saw  and  which  fully  came  up 
to  my  idea  of  gorges  in  general.  We  passed  through  what 
must  have  been  rents  in  the  rock,  where  the  smooth  bare 
rock  rose  on  each  side  perpendicularly  to  the  height  of  at 
least  two  thousand  feet. 

Arriving  at  Domo  d'Ossola  we  were  once  more  in  Italy — 

here  we  made  a  short  stop,  and  then  going  on  soon  struck 

Lake  Maggiore,  but  did  not    arrive  at    Arona   until  twelve 

o'clock  at  night.     However  we  were  lighted  along  our  way 

169 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

by  the  full  moon  and  it  was  very  charming,  notwithstanding 
the  fatigue. 

The  next  morning  we  went  up  to  Isola  Bella,  where  is 
the  Duke  Borromeo's  country  seat.  His  gardens  are  the 
finest  I  ever  saw,  and  must  have  taken  an  immense  amount 
of  labor.  The  solid  rock  has  been  cut  into  terraces  and  then 
covered   with   soil   and   planted   with  the   rarest   flowers  and 


LUGANO,  SWITZERLAND 

shrubs.  The  palace  contains  some  fine  works  of  art  and  el- 
egant tables  and  vases,  &c.  We  had  got  down  into  a  warm 
climate  where  all  the  people  spent  their  time  out  of  doors. 
It  was  certainly  amusing  to  active  Americans  to  watch  them 
lolling  about  doing  nothing  or  else  performing  their  duties  in 
the  most  listless,   dragging  way. 

We  got  on  to  Luino  by  boat,  a  town  at  the  head  of  the  lake, 
and  a  delightful  drive  of  three  hours  through  the  moonlight 

brought  us  over  to  Lake  Lugano  where  we  spent  the  night. 

170 


ITALY 

The  next  morning  we  took  a  stroll  through  the  town  and 
bought  a  pair  of  little  peasant  girls'  shoes  in  the  market  for 
Lolly  to  see.  We  had  front  rooms  at  the  hotel  looking  out 
upon  the  Lake  as  beautiful  a  view  as  possible,  combining  all 
the  elements  of  beauty  with  some  of  grandeur.  An  hour's 
ride  on  the  Lake  the  next  morning  and  two  more  in  a  diligence 
brought  us  to  Lake  Como,  at  the  town  of  Menaggio,  and  from 
this  place  we  took  the  boat  down  to  Como  going  over  the  same 
ground  I  went  over  with  Gen.  Fiske  last  spring,  and  which  I 
described  to  you.  The  second  sight  of  Lake  Como,  with  all 
my  lake  experience  since  I  had  last  seen  it,  left  me  with  an 
even  more  favorable  impression  in  regard  to  its  beauty. 
Omnibuses  were  in  waiting  to  take  us  to  Camerlata,  and  at 
nine  o'clock  I  was  once  more  in  Milan.  It  seemed  almost 
like  going  home. 


":'wi>:?^-- 


ENGLAND 


London,  Dec.  5th,  1870. 

We  left  Brussels  early  Thursday  morning  and  in  one  hour 
were  landed  at  Antwerp.  I  had  expected  that  we  were  to 
spend  several  hours  in  that  city  before  taking  the  London 
steamer,  but  found  to  my  disappointment  that  I  had  no  more 
than  one  hour.  So  as  soon  as  our  things  were  put  on  board  we 
started  oflP  to  the  Cathedral  to  see  the  celebrated  "Elevation 
to  and  Descent  from  the  Cross"  by  Rubens.  With  our  usual 
luck  the  man  whose  business  it  was  to  show  these  pictures 
obstinately  refused  to  be  persuaded  into  showing  them  to  us 
until  within  five  minutes  of  the  time  when  the  boat  was  to 
start.  Consequently  we  sauntered  round  the  town  during  the 
intervening  half-hour  hunting  out  interesting  relics  of  the  old 
Dutch  architecture,  old  Spanish  houses,  &c.,  and  although 
the  cold  was  very  penetrating  and  disagreeable  I  was  so  much 
interested  in  the  funny  crooked  old  streets  and  the  quaint 
old  architecture  that  we  were  soon  back  at  the  Cathedral 
where  we  regarded  the  wonderful  pictures  and  made  the  two 
minutes'  walk  all  within  five  minutes. 

As  a  general  thing  I  don't  like  Rubens  but  in  these  sacred 

pictures  he  has  certainly  shown  extraordinary  talent.     He  has 

depicted  the  two  different  expressions  in  the  face  of  the  live 

suffering  Christ  and  that  of  the  dead  one,  with  wonderful  skill. 

In  one  of  the  side  aisles  I  found  a  head  of  Christ  by  Leonardo 

172 


ENGLAND 

da  MncI,  simply  a  bearded  face  without  any  support,  some 
thing  Hke  the  one  in  Berlin  by  Correggio. 

In  driving  to  the  boat  we  passed  through  the  market  place 
and  saw  the  old  market  writers  in  their  ridiculous  costumes, 
an  immense  bonnet  of  straw  with  a  high  crown  rising  up  nearly 
a  foot  above  it,  and  two  great  lace  lappets  hanging  out  at 
either  side  of  the  face,  and  in  addition  to  this  headpiece  I  saw 


THE  ROYAL  PALACE.  BRUSSELS 

some  who  had  thrown  the  old-fashioned  calash-like  hood,  at- 
tached to  a  long  black  cloth  cloak  they  all  wear,  over  the  bon- 
net.    The  effect  was  preposterous. 

It  was  so  cold  as  we  went  down  the  river  from  Antwerp  that 
we  were  obliged  to  stay  down  in  the  cabin.  I  went  up  to  see 
the  sunset  which  was  something  like  our  Mississippi  river  sun- 
sets, but  I  soon  found  myself  getting  seasick.  We  all  had  to 
get  into  our  berths  by  seven  o'clock,  the  channel  became  so 

173 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

very  rough,  and  were  as  sick  as  possible  for  the  five  hours 
until  we  got  into  the  Thames.  I  look  forward  with  utter 
horror  to  Saturday  next  when  we  shall  embark  on  board  the 
Russia.  Eleven  days  will  seem  an  eternity.  Mr.  Whitelaw 
called  yesterday  with  young  Glasgow  and  Carson.  They  are 
all  going  on  the  Russia.  We  are  stopping  at  an  old-fashioned 
house  far  down  on  the  Strand  near  the  new  Victoria  embank- 
ment, where  we  can  see  the  boats  running  to  and  fro  on  the 
Thames,  but  it  is  a  very  dreary  prospect,  much  better  at  night 
when  the  streets  and  bridges  are  lighted  with  gas. 

Went  last  night  to  hear  the  Messe  Solenelle  of  Rossini. 
The  cast  was  as  great  as  it  is  possible  to  hear.  I  certainly 
never  expect  to  hear  as  great  a  one  again.  Titiens,  Sims 
Reeves,  Alboni.  It  was  the  only  appearance  of  Alboni  for 
many  years.  I  was  prepared  to  be  disappointed  because  she 
is  quite  too  old  now  to  sing,  but  she  sang  magnificently  in 
"Qui  Tollis,"  the  duet  with  Titiens.  The  chorus  was  so  finely 
trained  that  no  one  person  could  have  rendered  a  song  with 
more  expression  and  the  effect  of  the  last  chorus  in  unison 
with  the  "Agnus  dei"  of  Alboni,  fairly  made  the  cold  chills 
come  over  me.  Every  time  she  sang  the  Miserere  notes  in  her 
magnificent  chest  tones  the  audience  just  groaned  with  sym- 
pathy. And  when  she  left  the  stage  she  was  recalled  twice, 
and  the  people  all  rose  to  their  feet,  applauding  in  the 
English  fashion,  and  calling  out  Ho!  Ho!  altogether  it  was 
very  exciting. 

Liverpool,  Dec.  9th,  1870. 
We  left  London  at  ten  this  morning,  arrived  at  the  Adelphi 
at  four,  found  it  full  of  Americans  going  on  the  Russia 
to-morrow.  The  country  between  here  and  London  is  covered 
with  snow  and  it  seems  quite  as  wintry  as  America  at  this 
season  of  the  year.  Mother  and  I  expect  to  be  sick  all  the  way 
over  and  look  forward  with  perfect  dread  to  the  next  eleven 
days. 

174 


ENGLAND 

Liverpool,  Dec.  9th,  1870. 
We  are  all  laughing  very  much  at  the  conversation  of  a 
gentleman  named  Moore,  who  has  lived  in  Paris  in  some 
official  capacity.  He  has  just  shown  us  a  newspaper  which 
is  being  published  at  present  in  Paris.  It  comes  out  regularly 
by  balloon,  is  about  eight  inches  square.*  He  says  there  was 
never  a  place  where  a  man  is  so  downtrodden  as  New  York. 
They  hold  our  noses  to  the  grind-stone  and  keep  them  there 
while  they  grind  and  the  blood  flies,  and  we  cry  beautiful! 

On  board,  Dec.  loth,  1870. 
We  were  all  drummed  up  early  this  morning  and  after  a 
good  hot  breakfast  came  down  to  the  tender,  where  we  were 
fairly  crammed,  packed  like  sheep,  there  being  some  two 
hundred  and  thirty  or  more  passengers.  All  the  faces  are 
quite  familiar — we  having  met  most  of  them  at  one  time  or 
another  while  travelling.  Gen.  Burnside  and  wife  are  on 
board,  Gen.  Hazen  and  quite  a  number  of  distinguished 
people.  I  never  saw  such  a  nice  set  of  people  together.  They 
are  all  down  getting  the  trunks  into  the  staterooms  and  I 
seize  the  opportunity  to  add  a  few  last  words,  for  I  know  I 
shall  not  get  out  of  the  river  even  without  being  sick.  I  can't 
realize  that  I  am  at  last  really  on  my  way  home. 

*  Paris  was  besieged  by  the  Germans  and  shut  off  from  the  outside  world. 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1892 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  1892 


On   board   S.  S.    City   of 

New  York June  15, 

Earl  and  Countess  Meath  June  16, 
Concert,  Salvini,  Clemen- 
tine De  Vere  and  Pow- 
ers sing June  20, 

Liverpool June  23, 

The  Adelphi  Hotel June  23, 

Chester June  23, 

Grosvenor  Hotel,  ChesterJune  23, 
Cathedral  and  old  walls, 

Chester June  23, 

Excursion     to    Duke    of 
Westminster's     Palace, 

Eaton  Hall June  24, 

Leamington,  Haddon  Hall 

Warwick  Castle June  24, 

Stratford  on  Avon June  26, 

Oxford June  26, 

Entertained  by  Prof.  Ger- 

rans June  26, 

Magdalen  College,  Iffley, 

beauties  of  the  Colleges  June  26, 
Daylight  'till  10  P.  M.. .  June  26, 

London June  26, 

Entertained  by  Mactears  June  29, 
Henry    Irving    in    Henr>' 

8th June  29, 

Buffalo  Bill's  Show June  29, 

Siegfried  at  the  Opera       July    5, 

Hampton  Court July    2, 

"Venice"     and     Salviati, 

Glass  makers July    2, 

The  Brunswick  and  Met- 

ropole  Hotels July    3, 

Foundling  Hospital July    3, 

Scoreof  Handel's  Messiahjuly    3, 
Windsor  Castle  by  Coach, 

60  mile  drive July    3, 

London  Tower July    3, 

Christy's  Auction  and  its 

wonders July     5, 

Lost     Letter     of     Credit 

found July     3, 

Isle  of  Jerse}',  St.  Heliers  July  14, 
Isle  of  Wight,   Shanklin, 

Newport,  Cowes July  14, 

Guernsey,  Victor   Hugo's 

house July  14, 

Sark July  14, 

Dinard July  16, 

St.  Malo,  Dinard July  17, 

Mont  St.  Michel July  17, 

Wonders  of  St.  Michel. .  .July  20, 
Madame     Poulard's    and 

Omelettes July  20, 


1892 

181 

,  1892 

181 

1892 

183 

1892 

184 

1892 

184 

1892 

184 

1892 

i«5 

1892  185 


1892  186 


1892 
1892 
1892 

186 
186 
186 

1892 

187 

1892 
1892 
1892 
1892 

187 
187 
187 
188 

1892 
1892 
1892 
1892 

188 
189 
190 
190 

1892 

191 

1892 
1892 
1892 

191 
191 
191 

1892 
1892 

192 
193 

1892 

194 

1892 
1892 

198 

1892 

198 

1892 
1892 
1892 
1892 
1892 
1892 

199 
199 

201 
202 
202 
203 

1892  203 


Trouville     and     Caen, 

Bayeax July  20,  1892  206 

Dives,  Inn  of  Guillaume 

le  Conquerant July  24,  1892  208 

Le  Mans,  home  of  Queen 

Berengaria July  24,  1892  209 

Chenonceaux     and     Am- 

boise :  . .  .  July  24,  1892  210 

Lunch  at  the  "Bon  La- 

boureur July  24,  1892  210 

Chapel  of  St.  Hubert.  .  .  .July  24,  1892  210 
The  Emersons  of  Boston 

and  the  funny  poetry.  .July  24,  1892  211 

Blois .' July  27,  1892  213 

Vendome,  Tours  and  the 

Rochambeau  Chateau  .July  27,  1892  213 

Grand  Hotel  de  Blois July  27,  1892  213 

Blois  and  Chambord July  27,  1892  213 

Vendome July  27,  1892  214 

Paris July  29,  1892  215 

Eiffel  Tower July  29,  1892  215 

Dinner  on  the  Tower.  .  .  .July  29,  1892  215 
Visit  to  the  Marquise  de 

Rochambeau July  29,  1892  215 

Charms  of  the  Chateau  July  29,  1892  216 

Interesting  dinner July  29,  1892  216 

Cave  Dwellings July  29,  1892  217 

Chartres July  29,  1892  219 

Cathedral  of  Chartres  . .  .July  29,  1892  219 

Hombourg Aug.    6,1892  220 

Strasbourg Aug.    6,1892  220 

Kurgarten  Hombourg Aug.    6,1892  220 

Prince  of  Wales Aug.    9,1892  222 

Dowager    Empress    of 

Germany Aug.    9,  1892  222 

Nuremburg Aug.  22,  1892  225 

Bayreuth    Aug.  22,  1892  225 

Wagner's  Grave Aug.  22,  1892  227 

Parsifal Aug.  22,  1892  227 

Duchess  of  Edinborough  Aug.  22,  1892  227 

Hotel  Tyrol,   Innsbruck  Aug.  25,  1892  228 

St.  Moritz Aug.  29,  1892  230 

Coire Aug.  29,  1892  230 

Sairgno Aug.  29,  1892  230 

JuHer  Pass Aug.  29,  1892  230 

Pontresina Aug.  29,  1892  230 

Roseg  and  Morteratsch  Aug.  29,  1892  231 

Milan Sept.  3,  1892  233 

LakeComo Sept.  3,  1892  233 

Lucerne Sept.  3,  1892  233 

Lausanne Sept.  3,  1892  233 

Zermatt Sept.  3,  1892  233 

Chiavenna Sept.  3,  1892  234 

Bellano Sept.  3,  1892  234 

Hotel  Metropole,  Milan.  .Sept.  3,  1892  234 

Via  Pasquirolo Sept.  3,  1892  234 

179 


INDEX 


Santa  Maria  dellc  Grazie  Sept.  3,  1892  234 

San  Gothard  Pass Sept.  4,  1892  235 

Lucerne Sept.  5,  1S92  235 

Lausanne Sept.  5,  1892  235 

Zermatt Sept.  8,  1892  236 

Ouchy Sept.  8,  1892  236 

Villeneuve Sept.  8,  1.892  236 

Visp Sept.  8.  1892  236 

Fete  day  at  Visp Sept.  8,  1892  237 

Geneva Sept.ii,  1892  238 

Paris Sept. 15,  1892  239 

Cholera Sept.  15,  1892  239 

Normandy  Hotel,  Paris.  .Sept. 15,  1892  239 


Mourpe,   Opera,   Sa- 

lammbo    Sept. 22, 

Luxembourg Sept. 22, 

Hippodrome Sept. 15, 

Visit    to    Alfred    Durand, 

Versailles Sept. 19, 

Palace  of  Versailles Sept. 19, 

St.  Germain Sept. 19, 

Pavilion  Henry  IV Sept.  19, 

London Sept. 22, 

Sailing     from     Liverpool 

on    the   "Citv  of  New 

York" ' Sept.28, 


1893  2+3 

1892  242 

1892  239 

1892  241 

1892  241 

1892  240 

1892  241 

1892  242 


1892 


EN  ROUTE 

S.  S.  City  of  New  York, 

Wed.  Eve.,  June  15th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  sent  a  few  words  by  the  pilot  this  morning  and  at  Sandy 

Hook  the  boat  stopped  and  a  little  row  boat  came  along  side 

first  one  and  then  another  of  the  three  big  ships  and  took  the 

mail.     Cliif  and  I  both  went  down  to  lunch  and  dinner.     So 

far  there  is  nothing  to  remind  us  that  we  are  not  on  the  Sound, 

except  an  occasional  lurch.     While  I  am  not  really  seasick  I 

don't  feel  as  I  do  on  land. 

Aboard  S.  S.  City  of  New  York. 

June  i6th,  9  P.  M.  1892. 

Another  day  is  past  and  we  are  still  on  our  feet.  The  weather 
has  been  ideal  and  there  is  scarcely  any  motion.  We  slept  well 
last  night  and  found  our  staterooms  well  ventilated. 

We  have  been  on  deck  all  day  but  I  don't  do  any  reading. 

The  man  we  thought  was  Talmadge  is  Rev.  Mr.  Satterlee  of 
New  York.  The  J.  Bertram  Lippincotts  had  letters  of  intro- 
duction to  him.  We  have  found  out  the  Earl  and  Countess  of 
Meath  are  at  the  same  table  with  the  Cuylers.  We  have  not 
yet  discovered  T.  B.  Aldrich,  the  famous  author. 

We  went  to  our  meals  but  I  can't  say  I  enjoyed  them  and 
depend  on  roast  beef  principally.  I  walk  around  the  ship 
five  or  six  times  a  day.  I  found  my  long  Russian  coat  just  the 
thing.  No  champagne  as  yet.  We  got  some  claret  which  will 
last  us  several  days,  to  color  the  water.      Good  night. 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Friday,  17th,  1892. 

Another  perfect  day  has  passed  and  we  are  doing  splendidly; 
I  have  been  to  our  three  meals  and  had  plenty  of  conversa- 
tion. At  half  past  nine  the  ship  is  beginning  to  roll  pretty  badly. 
I  tried  to  read  to-day  but  couldn't.  Up  to  yesterday  noon  we 
had  gone  457  miles  and  up  to  noon  to-day,  460. 

A  nice  English  woman,  a  Mrs.  Barclay,  has  been  travelling 
with  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Meath,  and  we  see  a  good  deal 
of  her.  I  walk  around  the  boat  every  hour  or  two  to  keep  up 
my  circulation,  and  ate  a  big  dinner  to-night.  They  say  we 
will  get  to  Queenstown  Tuesday  afternoon  and  to  Liverpool 
Wednesday  morning.  There  is  certainly  more  motion  and  I 
rather  dread  the  night,  so  good-bye, 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Saturday  eve.,  June  i8th,  1892. 

Here  we  are  at  the  end  of  the  4th  day  and  the  weather  has 
changed  very  much.  The  ship  has  rolled  fearfully  every  day  and 
yet  we  have  taken  our  three  meals  in  the  saloon  and  there  seem 
to  be  few  sick  people.  I  am  so  amazed  at  myself  I  don't  know 
what  to  do.  We  had  great  fun  at  dinner,  holding  on  to  the  table 
and  eating  between  times.  To-morrow  the  Captain  will  conduct 
the  morning  service  and  Talmadge  is  to  preach  in  the  evening. 

It  turned  suddenly  cold  this  afternoon  so  that  we  thought  it 
must  be  owing  to  the  presence  of  icebergs,  and  they  were  tak- 
ing the  temperature  of  the  water,  Clementine  de  Vere  is  on 
board  with  her  husband  Mr.  Sapio,  also  Powers  the  baritone. 
I  cannot  read  at  all,  so  do  nothing  but  talk  and  watch  people. 
It  seems  a  long  time  until  Tuesday,  but  the  worst  is  over.  So 
many  people  are  going  to  get  off  at  Queenstown,  we  shall  miss 
them.     Good  night. 

Monday,  June  20th,  1892. 

Yesterday  the  ship  rolled  so  that  both  of  us  were  quite  un- 
comfortable. Rev.  Mr.  Satterlee  preached  in  the  evening  and 
the  Captain  read  the  morning  service.  Clementine  de  Vere 
sang  magnificently  up  in  the  organ  loft,  also  Francis  Fisher 

Powers,  but  I  could  only  hear  a  little  from  the  gallery.    The 

182 


EN  ROUTE 

Irish  lawyer  got  up  some  sports,  which  took  up  all  this  after- 
noon and  were  quite  amusing. 

To-night  there  is  to  be  a  concert  in  aid  of  the  shipwrecked 
sailors  and  all  the  distinguished  singers  take  part.  Salvini 
will  recite  and  De  Vere  and  Powers  sing,  and  the  Mendelssohn 
Club.    It  will  be  very  fine. 

We  only  made  442  miles  up  to  noon  to-day  and  don't  ex- 
pect to  get  to  Queenstown  until  late  to-morrow  evening  and 
if  we  don't  get  over  the  bar  at  Liverpool  before  9  a.  m.  on 
Wednesday  I  don't  know  how  long  we  will  be.  We  are  still 
rolling  a  good  deal  and  I  don't  know  if  I  will  be  able  to  stay 
in  the  saloon  long  enough  for  the  concert. 

12  M.  Tuesday,  June  21st,  1892. 

Our  last  day  we  hope,  although  we  are  not  yet  in  sight  of 
land.  All  who  are  going  off  are  packing.  The  weather  is  per- 
fect, but  there  is  enough  rolling  to  make  me  dread  going  be- 
low to  pack. 

We  had  the  most  delightful  concert  last  night  and  we  all 
enjoyed  it  thoroughly.  Salvini  recited  first  a  short  Italian  piece 
and  then  the  Star  Spangled  Banner.  It  was  a  fine  tribute  to 
America  in  the  face  of  so  many  English.  A  Mr.  Coleman,  of 
New  York  gave  a  supper  afterwards  to  Clementine  de  Vere 
and  her  husband,  Mr.  Sapio  (who  must  be  a  fine  composer, 
judging  from  the  songs  of  his  composition  she  sang),  and  to  the 
English  lady,  Mrs.  Barclay.  They  all  sit  together  at  table. 
Dr.  Satterlee  was  talking  with  the  Earl,  and  I  noticed  as  he 
looked  down  and  listened,  that  there  was  quite  a  resemblance 
to  you.  I  have  enjoyed  the  ship's  company  very  much  but 
cannot  feel  as  if  I  were  on  dry  land.  I  have  never  seen  so 
many  nice-looking  people  on  a  ship,  so  many  big  handsome  men. 

I  wish  every  day  you  could  be  with  me  and  cannot  feel 
reconciled.  I  am  like  another  person  and  am  so  much  stronger 
and  feel  more  lively  and  toned  up  mentally  and  physically. 
I  hope  now,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bert  Lippincott  will  be  with  us  at 
Leamington  and  Oxford. 

Looking  forward  to  letters, 

Your  loving,  M.  D.  R. 

183 


^^:i«^?l^--'^'    ■"^^^U;-:¥; 


ENGLAND 


Thursday,  June  23rd,  1892. 

Dear  Papa: 

I  am  writing  this  letter  on  the  train  from  Chester  to  Leam- 
ington. The  fast  express  it  is,  and  we  are  alone  in  a  first  class 
compartment.  We  landed  yesterday  at  Liverpool  at  one  o'clock 
^nd  went  through  the  customs  all  right  under  the  direction  of  a 
"Cook  Tourist"  man.  Mother's  trunk  was  found  after  some 
hunting  in  the  compartment.  We  had  a  very  good  lunch  at 
the  Adelphi,  where  they  know  how  to  charge. 

We  took  the  four  o'clock  train  to  Chester,  a  distance  of  16 
miles,  and  engaged  a  carriage  immediately  and  drove  around  the 
town.  Dined  at  the  Grosvenor  Arms.  This  morning  drove  out 
to  the  Duke  of  Westminster's  place.  I  could  not  describe  it, 
it  would  take  too  long;  however  we  saw  a  flock  of  over  200  wild 
deer.  The  deer  park  surrounds  the  house  within  a  radius  of 
half  a  mile.  The  place  is  12  miles  long  by  8  wide  and  con- 
tains several  villages.  The  deer  are  pretty  tame,  except  when 
they  smell  a  gun. 

We  telegraphed  for  rooms  at  Leamington,  as  there  is  an 
agricultural  fair  going  on  there.  The  weather  to-day  is  cold. 
Yesterday  warm  with  showers  in  evening.  Chester  is  a  quaint 
old  place. 

Yours,  C. 


ENGLAND 

Grosvenor  Hotel,  Chester, 

June  23rd,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

Although  dead  tired  I  cannot  resist  giving  you  an  account 
of  our  first  day  on  land.  We  didn't  get  to  bed  last  night  until 
very  late,  as  we  had  all  our  packing  to  do,  having  spent  the 
afternoon  in  admiring  the  Irish  coast  and  the  evening  in  seeing 
the  people  oif  at  Queenstown.  This  morning  we  dressed  up 
and  stored  our  steamer  trunk  with  the  Inman  people,  had  our 
breakfast  and  hung  around  until  one  o'clock  before  we  got 
oif  on  the  tug.  When  we  got  into  the  Custom  House  my  trunk 
was  not  to  be  found  among  the  R's,  where  it  should  have  been, 
but  one  of  the  Cook's  men  got  it  for  me  among  the  B's. 

Then  we  took  a  cab  with  the  English  lady  and  drove  to 
Inman's  office  and  changed  our  stateroom,  as  we  found  154 
a  little  too  far  forward,  to  a  nice  large  one.  We  found  we  had 
to  fee  every  one  on  the  ship  and  I  have  not  yet  put  down  our 
expenses — they  have  been  something  fearful  to-day.  After 
that  we  went  with  Mrs.  Barclay  to  the  Midland  Railway  and 
left  her  and  then  to  the  Adelphi  Hotel.  We  had  the  most  de- 
licious lunch,  then  took  a  cab  and  went  to  the  Ferry  and 
across  the  Mersey  to  the  Great  Western  and  took  a  way  train 
here. 

Cliff  and  I  took  a  small  carriage  and  drove  all  round  the 
walls  and  castle  and  cathedral.  I  have  never  seen  anything  so 
interesting  as  the  wonderful  cathedral  and  the  old  Roman 
walls.  Caesar's  Tower,  King  Edgar's  palace  and  old  houses 
dating  from  962,  the  river  Dee  outside  the  walls  and  the  ivy 
covered  walls.  We  all  had  table  d'hote  dinner  and  then  we 
took  a  walk  around  the  top  of  the  walls. 

I  have  written  Mr.  Gerrans  that  I  expect  to  be  in  Oxford 
over  Sunday,  as  Mr.  Wells  requested,  stopping  here  and  hav- 
ing one  day  longer  on  ship  than  I  expected,  will  set  me  back 
a  little.  When  we  come  over  again  you  must  come  here. 
There  is  a  howling  mob  outside  over  some  political  excite- 
ment.    Good-night  and  good-bye. 

Your  affectionate  wife,  M.  D.  R. 

185 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Leamington,  England 
Friday,  June  24th,  1892. 

Dear  Frank: 

I  have  so  much  to  tell  my  courage  gives  out  at  the  begin- 
ning. Outside  there  is  a  beautiful  garden  and  I  wish  you  were 
here  with  us.  I  believe  I  wrote  you  up  to  the  morning  we  went 
to  Eaton  Hall,  the  Duke  of  Westminster's  house.  We  had  an 
early  breakfast,  and  while  the  carriages  were  being  made 
ready,  we  went  over  the  the  Chester  Cathedral  and  saw  the 
interior.  It  was  the  most  interesting  I  ever  saw,  the  wonder- 
ful wood  carvings  like  lace  and  miniature  cathedrals,  which 
hung  as  canopies  over  the  chairs  where  the  Monks  used  to  sit, 
were  beyond  description.  It  was  impossible  to  realize  that  the 
church  had  stood  there  over  a  thousand  years.  It  would  take 
hours  to  describe  all  I  saw,  so  I  will  not  try. 

We  took  a  carriage  with  Mrs.  Haines  and  her  son  and 
daughter  (she  is  Dr.  Tom  Wistar's  sister),  and  drove  out 
to  Eaton  Hall  which  was  a  line  place  with  magnificent  gardens, 
but  I  wasn't  much  impressed  with  the  outward  appearance  of 
the  house.  The  best  were  the  beautiful  views  of  the  Welsh 
Mountains  in  the  distance,  and  the  perfect  atmosphere  and 
lovely  trees  and  flowers.  I  saw  the  daisies  growing  in  the  grass 
wild,  like  our  cultivated  ones. 

After  a  nice  lunch  at  the  hotel,  we  took  the  train  and  came 
here  at  five  o'clock  yesterday. 

Oxford,  Sunday,  June  26th,  1892. 

Friday  morning  Cliff  and  I  went  by  coach  to  Stratford. 
The  coach  put  up  at  the  Red  Horse  and  we  did  all  the  sights, 
having  from  one  to  four  o'clock  to  do  them  in.  Stratford  is 
quite  a  city  now,  otherwise  the  sights  are  the  same  as  when 
I  was  here  in  1870.    The  best  part  was  the  lovely  drive. 

We  took  the  9.57  train  from  Leamington  Saturday  morn- 
ing and  came  here  to  the  Randolph  Hotel.  I  immediately  sent 
a  note  to  Mr.  Gerrans  saying  we  would  be  in  until  after  lunch, 
and  Mrs.  Gerrans  appeared  at  once,  as  they  only  live  around 


ENGLAND 

the  corner.  They  gave  us  some  assistance  as  to  sight  seeing 
during  the  afternoon  and  invited  us  to  tea  to-night,  CHflf  and 
I  took  a  carriage  and  went  the  rounds  of  the  more  important 
colleges.  They  were  so  interesting,  especially  the  gardens  and 
chapels,  that  I  went  far  beyond  my  strength  and  to-day  could 
hardly  crawl  about. 

At  seven  the  Gerrans  came  and  he  is  a  very  interesting, 
jolly  man,  not  seeming  at  all  English.  He  seemed  to  be  amused 
with  me,  so  we  became  good  friends  at  once.  She  is  a  Canadian 
but  not  so  full  of  life  as  he  is.  They  had  asked  some  people 
for  tea  to-night  and  then  asked  us  to  breakfast  at  half  past 
eight  and  we  went  afterwards  to  Magdalen  college  to  hear  the 
service,  but  got  there  just  too  late,  so  I  only  saw  the  gardens, 
and  then  we  drove  out  to  Iffley  and  saw  the  old  mill  and  the 
Norman  Church,  and  a  lovely  English  village. 

I  can't  take  time  to  describe  the  beauties  of  the  colleges; 
the  fine  carvings  in  wood  and  stone,  the  interesting  portraits 
and  old  bits  of  walls  and  gate  ways  and  the  magnificent  parks 
with  deer,  etc.  We  went  to  afternoon  service  at  Christ  Church 
Cathedral  and  heard  a  most  beautiful  choir,  and  Dr.  Lloyd 
at  the  organ.  Much  to  my  surprise  the  service  was  very  Low 
Church  and  all  the  reading  and  chanting  very  distinct. 

We  then  went  to  Gerrans'  to  tea  and  had  a  very  nice  meal  of 
cold  lamb  and  veal  pie,  salads  and  preserves,  etc.,  and  met  an 
Oxford  Professor  of  Roman  law  (a  German)  Prof.  Griiber  and 
wife,  a  Professor  Brown,  of  New  York,  who  lectures  on  theol- 
ogy, and  a  Mr.  Elliott,  who  knew  Mr.  Wells  when  here.  They 
think  I  ought  to  stay  longer,  but  I  am  anxious  to  get  to  London 
to-morrow  to  get  our  first  letters  and  find  out  what  you  are 
all  doing  at  home. 

Mr.  Gerrans  is  to  take  us  to  see  his  rooms  at  Worcester  col- 
lege, and  we  shall  take  the  eleven  o'clock  train  to  London.  My 
feet  are  so  swollen  with  fatigue  that  I  shall  need  a  day's  rest. 
Clifford  is  getting  to  understand  the  baggage  business  very  well 
and  the  money  also.  We  walked  home  to-night  after  nine  o'clock 
in  bright  daylight,  and  it  is  not  dark  when  I  go  to  bed  at  ten. 

187 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  would  like  to  stay  here  a  week,  there  is  so  much  I  must 
leave  undone.  We  have  had  such  wonderful  weather  for  Eng- 
land, clear  and  delightfully  cool.  Yesterday  it  rained  a  few 
drops,  so  I  was  surprised  to  find  it  clear  this  morning.  This 
hotel  has  an  elevator  and  bath  room,  wonderful  for  England. 
Tell  Fanny  she  would  revel  in  gooseberries  here,  as  they  serve 
them  as  compote  and  tart,  etc. 

With  my  best  love, 

Your  affectionate,  M.  D.  R. 

London,  June  29,  1892. 

Dear  Frank: 

We  sent  our  cards  to  Mactears  and  they  appeared  at  once, 
but  we  were  out,  and  Mr.  M.  came  back  for  the  third  time  at 
seven  last  eve.   We  went  to  see  Henry  VHI  at  Irving's  Theatre. 


THE  MARBLE  ARCH,  HYDE  PARK,   LONDON 

It  was  magnificent,  but  so  dear.  Everything  of  that  kind  is 
much  dearer  than  in  America.  Mr.  Mactear  came  and  took 
us  out  this  morning,  then  we  went  to  his  house  at  noon,  and 
went  with  Mrs.  M.  and  daughter  to  the  Coaching  Parade  in 
Hyde  Park,  but  lots  of  people  have  gone  away,  and  there 
were  very  few  distinguished  people. 

We  went  back  and  had  a  very  elegant  lunch  beautifully 
served,  champagne  and  other  wines,  etc.    Yesterday  was  so 


ENGLAND 

warm,  and  at  the  theatre  really  uncomfortable  but  to-day 
is  so  cold  I  can't  get  warm.  We  went  to  the  Army  and  Navy 
stores  yesterday  morning  and  bought  stockings  and  a  small 
trunk  for  me  and  a  large  Gladstone  bag  for  Cliff  to  travel  on 
the  continent,  and  took  lunch  there. 

At  half  past  six  we  are  going  to  meet  the  Mactears  to  dine 
at  some  club  and  go  to  Buffalo  Bill's  show.  The  David  Bis- 
phams  have  called  to-day  while  we  were  out.  To-morrow  we 
shall  do  two  picture  galleries  and  Cliff  will  go  to  the  Tower 
and  I  must  get  a  waterproof. 

London,  Wednesday,  June  29th,  1892. 

Dear  Papa: 

We  had  a  fine  time  at  the  show  last  night  which  was  out 
at  a  new  exhibition  grounds  in  Kensington.  We  dined  at  a 
little  private  club  there,  of  which  Mr.  Mactear  is  a  member. 
The  whole  grounds  were  brilliantly  illuminated.  Mr.  Mactear 
is  very  nice. 

We  found  Richardson's  grave  in  Westminster  Abbey  and 
mother  is  having  a  photograph  taken  of  it.  The  streets  here 
are  all  paved  with  wood  and  I  think  are  very  fine  even  if  a 
little  slippery. 

We  are  going  to  hear  Mr.  David  Bispham  sing  in  Siegfried 
on  July  5th  and  after  that  we  will  soon  leave  London. 

London,  Thursday  morning,  June  30th,  1892. 

We  dined  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mactear  and  daughter  at  a 
private  club  house  in  a  great  garden  where  they  have  exhibi- 
tions and  where  Buffalo  Bill  is  now  performing,  and  went  to 
the  show  afterwards.  There  was  a  cunning  little  club  house 
which  was  illuminated  on  the  outside  with  little  green  glass 
cups  and  all  the  gardens  were  illuminated  the  same  way  with 
millions  of  lights  all  through  the  trees.  I  have  never  seen  any 
thing  like  it. 

I  said  to  Mr.  M.  that  we  hadn't  heard  from  him  and  he 
said  he  had  been  away  ever  since  he  returned  from  America 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  had  waited  to  get  the  Mexican  photographs  to  send  you. 
He  certainly  is  most  attentive  and  insists  upon  our  lunching 
with  him  at  the  Savoy  to-day.  They  speak  about  dining  there 
informally  and  going  to  a  Kiralfy  show  called  Venice,  after- 
wards on  Friday,  but  I  don't  feel  very  enthusiastic  about  it. 

London  is  the  most  expensive  place  I  ever  saw.  This  is 
only  a  medium  class  hotel,  I  consider,  and  yet  we  pay  6  shillings 
(^1.50)  for  our  dinner  and  pay  extra  for  our  dessert;  and  six 
shillings  for  an  omelette,  coffee  and  bread  for  two.  The  noise 
is  almost  unendurable  and  I  think  seriously  to-day  of  changing 
to  the  Metropole  if  we  can  get  in.  I  tried  to  send  a  cablegram 
yesterday  and  they  refused  to  send  any  word  not  in  the  dic- 
tionary, so  all  your  inventions  are  for  nothing.  I  shall  be  glad 
to  get  away  from  London  as  it  is  too  fatiguing  for  me. 

To-day  is  beautiful  and  sunny  and  I  hope  to  accomplish 
a  good  deal  in  the  way  of  sightseeing.  Here  people  have  their 
houses  just  as  in  winter,  all  their  draperies  up  and  carpets 
down  and  live  as  in  winter.  I  expect  to  leave  here  on  Thursday, 
yth  July;  have  taken  tickets  for  Siegfried  at  Bayreuth. 
Hoping  there  is  nothing  the  matter. 

Yours  as  ever,  M.  D.  R. 

Saturday,  July  2,  1892. 
To  THE  Assembled  Family: 

The  Mactears  have  been  very  nice.  We  have  been  there 
twice  to  dinner,  once  to  lunch,  twice  out  at  hotels  to  lunch, 
twice  in  the  evenings  to  Buifalo  Bill's  Wild  West,  and  Venice 
by  Kiralfy.  A  Mrs.  Barclay  on  the  ship  gave  us  her  Army  and 
Navy  store  ticket.     We  bought  a  good  deal  there. 

Give  my  love  to  all.  C. 

London,  Friday,  July  2,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

We  have  removed  to  the  Metropole  and  find  it  much  nicer 
only  the  food  is  not  quite  so  good.    Mother  went  this  morning 

on  a  coach  to  Windsor.     We  went  out  to  Hampton  Court 

190 


ENGLAND 

yesterday  and,  of  course,  struck  the  day  the  house  was  closed, 
but  walked  around  the  grounds,  which  are  very  beautiful. 
We  went  into  the  "maze"  and  got  to  the  centre  but  could  not 
get  out  again. 

We  went  to  "Venice"  last  night.  It  is  a  production  of 
Imre  Kiralfy's  and  is  somewhat  like  the  Fall  of  Babylon,  etc. 
There  was  an  enormous  aquarium  in  front  of  the  stage  on 
which  there  were  gondolas.  There  was  nearly  a  whole  square 
of  houses  built  on  canals,  also  lots  of  bridges.  For  a  sixpence 
a  gondola  takes  you  all  through  the  town  in  ten  minutes.  The 
stores  were  filled  with  beautiful  Venetian  mosaics,  etc.,  for 
sale.  I  believe  the  show  has  been  here  all  winter.  We  saw  a 
lot  of  Salviati's  men  making  Venetian  glass.  One  of  them 
made  a  big  dragon  vase  in  about  ten  minutes.  It  was  in  dif- 
ferent colored  glasses.  There  is  some  secret  process  and  there 
are  only  two  manufactories  in  the  world.  They,  of  course, 
have  branches  all  over,  but  are  under  the  control  of  two  men. 
Apprentices  are  taken  who  are  sworn  to  secrecy. 

J.  C.  R. 

Hotel  Metropole 
London,  July  3rd,  1892. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary: 

We  moved  here  from  a  small  hotel  called  the  Brunswick, 
in  Jermyn  St.,  on  Friday,  and  at  last  I  have  a  moment  to  write. 
I  went  to  the  Foundling  Hospital  this  morning  alone,  for  when 
I  went  to  Clifford's  room  after  ten  o'clock,  I  couldn't  get  him 
up,  he  was  so  tired,  so  I  took  a  hansom  and  went  alone.  I 
found  it  very  interesting,  but  the  music  didn't  come  up  to  my 
expectations.  I  saw  the  score  of  Handel's  Messiah  there,  pre- 
sented by  the  composer,  and  his  statue  stands  on  the  street 
wall. 

We  are  going  to  leave  London  Thursday  for  the  Isle  of 
Wight,  after  a  ten  days'  stay  here.  The  soot  and  cinders  are 
most  disagreeable  to  me,  and  keep  my  throat  in  a  constant  state 
of  irritation,  so  I  shall  be  glad  to  get  away  from  the  smoke. 

191 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  have  been  extremely  fortunate  In  having  bright,  sunny 
weather  all  the  time,  sometimes  very  cold,  or  else  very  hot. 
They  have  more  sudden  changes  than  we  have.  I  understand 
now  why  English  women  wear  furs  in  summer. 

Yesterday  morning  I  had  planned  to  go  shopping  in  the 
morning,  and  to  St.  Paul's  in  the  afternoon,  but  after  break- 
fast I  met  Mr.  and  Mrs.  J.  B.  Lippincott  and  they  were  just 
about  to  get  on  the  coach  to  go  to  Windsor,  and  I  suddenly 


WINDSOR  CASTLE 


determined  to  go  if  I  could  get  a  seat,  and  I  was  fort\mate 
enough  to  get  the  best  seat  on  the  coach.  I  sat  on  the  box 
beside  the  driver,  who  was  a  gentleman,  and  we  had  a  delight- 
ful drive  through  Hampton  Court  and  along  the  Thames. 
I  saw  quantities  of  house  boats;  they  are  shaped  like  canal 
boats,  have  awnings  on  top,  and  are  regular  floating  flower 
gardens,  and  the  decks  furnished  like  drawing  rooms.  We 
had  a  delightful  table  d'hote  lunch  and  then  went  up  to  the 
castle. 

I  can't  imagine  anything  finer;  the  view  from  the  Terrace 

192 


ENGLAND 

over  Eton  and  the  magnificent  masonry,  I  shall  never  forget. 
As  Queen  Victoria  was  in  residence,  we  were  only  admitted  to 
St.  George's  chapel  and  the  terrace.  We  bought  strawberries 
and  roses  on  the  way  and  really  had  an  ideal  time.  You  can 
imagine  I  was  pretty  well  tired  out  after  a  sixty  mile  drive. 
We  had  four  relays  of  horses. 

No  one  could  be  more  attentive  than  Mr.  Mactear.  I 
have  lunched  there  and  at  the  Savoy  with  them  and  dined 
there  and  at  the  Club,  and  went  to  Buffalo  Bill's  and  to  Venice 
with  them  afterwards;  and  yesterday  while  I  was  at  Windsor, 
he  went  with  Cliff  to  the  Tower.  Kiralfy's  Venice  is  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  of  shows.  It  is  on  the  order  of  the  Fall  of 
Babylon,  but  under  cover,  and  they  have  gondolas 
and  gondoliers  from  Venice.  During  and  after  the  show 
you  go  into  a  perfect  imitation  of  Venice;  real  canals  bordered 
with  brightly  illuminated  shops  with  Italian  names,  and  cafes, 
and  groups  of  men  singing  Venetian  songs,  and  gondolas 
going  and  coming  in  every  direction,  and  people  crossing  the 
bridges.  To  add  to  the  illusion  we  heard  more  Italian  and 
French  than  English;  and  we  went  into  a  shop  and  saw  the 
man  manufacture  the  real  Salviati  glass,  and  it  was  a  most 
interesting  sight  though  the  heat  was  frightful. 

I  never  saw  such  gardens  and  such  stone  carvings,  or  heard 
such  church  music  as  at  Oxford,  and  shall  never  forget  them. 
I  am  going  with  Mrs.  David  Bispham  to  the  German  Opera 
at  Drury  Lane  Wednesday  night.  We  went  to  Hampton 
Court  Friday  afternoon  and  returned  just  in  time  to  dine  with 
Mactears  and  go  to  Venice  that  evening,  so  you  can  imagine 
me  pretty  tired  to-day  after  two  days  of  solid  work. 

I  have  had  to  wear  my  fawn  colored  Guerin  dress  every- 
where because  we  always  go  somewhere  after  dinner,  but  hope 
to  wear  my  dinner  dress  to  the  opera.  We  went  to  Henry  the 
VIII  with  Irving  and  Terry  and  found  it  wonderfully  fine. 
I  am  really  too  busy  to  indulge  in  homesickness.  I  am  try- 
ing to  remember  everything  I  see  and  talk  about  it  when  I 
get  home.  Aifiy.  M.  D.  R. 

13  193 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

London,  Jul>'  5th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  was  glad  to  get  your  letter  late  last  night.  Air.  Mactear 
was  saying  you  ought  to  have  a  little  place  where  you  could 
set  up  for  yourself  as  an  expert  and  make  a  name  for  \  ourself. 
He  seems  to  have  a  high  opinion  of  your  abilities  as  a  chemist. 

I  found  silver  quite  as  dear  as  at  home  and  did  not  see 
anvthing    astonishing,  was    disappointed    with    Liberty's    dis- 


HEXLEY  REGATTA 


play  and  at  the  great  china  shop  where  all  the  Royalties  deal 

I  found  very  elegant  sets  but  nothing  buyable.     We  loitered 

along  and  looked  at  shop  windows,  and  finally  went  to  Christy's, 

the  auction  place,  and  saw  treasures  of  Limoges  enamel  and 

carved  ivory,  miniatures,  etc.  and  it  breaks  my  heart  not  to 

avail  myself  of  such  a  chance,  but  I  find  the  things  I  marked 

will  not  be  sold  until  after  Thursday,  and  we  must  get  away 

from  here. 

How  I  wish  you  were  here  and  what  a  good  time  we  could 

194 


ENGLAND 

have  together!  Mrs.  Barclay  kindly  asked  us  to  go  to  the 
Henley  regatta.  I  couldn't  go  on  account  of  having  accepted 
for  the  Opera,  but  Clifford  is  going  with  her.  To-day  we  are 
going  to  the  Bank  to  draw  enough  money  to  take  us  to  St. 
Malo.  I  find  the  newest  and  best  route  to  Guernsey  is  from 
Weymouth,  only  four  and  a  half  hours,  but  the  difficulty  is 
to  get  to  Weymouth  from  Southampton. 

It  has  turned  very  much  colder  over  night  and  looks  a 
little  threatening  for  the  Regatta.  I  saw  no  trace  of  any  Fourth 
of  July  celebration,  but  it  happened  to  be  election  day  here 
and  throngs  were  screaming  in  the  streets  last  night.  I  must 
try  to  at  least  walk  through  the  South  Kensington  Museum 
to-day. 

Do  you  ever  go  to  the  Yacht  Club.^  The  great  Eton  and 
Harrow  cricket  match  comes  off  at  Lords  Friday  and  Saturday 
and  there  we  should  see  all  the  swells,  but  I  don't  feel  inclined 
to  wait  for  it  somehow.  Aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Dear  Mr.  Rosengarten: 

I  return  herewith  your  father's  photograph.  He  looks 
quite  provokingly  young,  just  as  ever  he  did,  as  if  the  twenty- 
three  years  which  have  passed  since  last  I  saw  him,  at  Tubingen 
had  left  no  mark  whatever  on  him;  well  I  spitefully  hope  that 
he  may  at  least  have  a  few  grey  hairs  on  his  head. 

I  was  so  sorry  to  have  missed  your  mother;  please  remember 
me  to  her,  and  I  hope,  if  time  permits,  that  I  may  see  you  both 
on  your  return. 

Faithfully  yours, 
1 2th  July,  '92.  Rudolph  Messel. 

Note.— Alessel  was  a  chemical  student  at  Tubingen  when  I  studied 
there  under  Professor  Adolph  Strecker  in  1869-70.     F.  H.  R. 


THE  CHANNEL  ISLANDS 

Isle  of  Jersey,  July  12th,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

Poor  mother  was  very  sick  coming  across  the  channel, 
while  I  was  not.  We  were  in  separate  cabins  so  I  could  do 
nothing  for  her.    We  drove  all  over  the  Isle  of  Wight  in  a  coach. 


MONT  ORGUEIL.  CASTLE  GOREY,  JERSEY 

The  towns  are  just  like  Newport,  hilly,  with  well  paved,  mac- 
adamized streets  and  small  asphalt  pavements.  The  houses 
have  small  gardens  in  front  and  the  streets  are  the  same  width. 
We  expect  to  get  to  St.  Malo  in  a  couple  of  days.     Mother 

will  be  glad  to  get  off  the  ocean.  Love  to  all,  C. 

196 


THE  CHANNEL  ISLANDS 

July  14th,  1892. 

Isle  of  Jersey. 
Dear  Grandpa: 

To-day  they  celebrate  in  France  the  taking  of  the  Bastille. 
We  took  a  long  coaching  trip  here  to-day  with  an  excursion. 
There  were  some  sixty  people.  We  saw  some  fine  caves,  one 
of  which  was  four  miles  long.  I  don't  know  whether  the  pic- 
ture of  "Jedge"  Richardson  in  Westminster  has  turned  up 
yet  or  not.  I  have  seen  some  splendid  cows  here  and  at  Guern- 
sey and  still  they  have  bad  butter. 

We  will  get  to  St.  Malo  to-morrow  and  then  on  to  Mont 
St.  Michel  where,  according  to  a  novel  mother  has  read  they 
have  good  omelettes.  They  have  some  fine  conger  fishing 
here  and  I  have  seen  some  very  big  ones.  The  scenery  in  all 
these  islands  resembles  that  of  Newport  and  Jamestown.    The 


SEIGNEURIE  LANE,  GUERNSEY 


same  granite  coast  and  hills  rising  above  them  covered  with 
grass  and  blackberry  bushes.  I  hope  Aunt  Laura  is  all  right 
now. 

Love  to  all,  Cliff. 


197 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

St.  Heliers, 

Isle  of  Jersey,  July  14,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  left  Shanklin,  Isle  of  Wight,  in  a  coach  with  our  baggage 
behind  us,  Monday  morning  and  had  the  most  exquisite  drive, 
taking  our  lunch  at  Black  Gang  Chine  and  passing  through 
Bonchurch  and  Ventnor,  and  then  Carisbrook,  where  there  is 
a  magnificent  old  castle,  one  of  the  finest  specimens  in  exist- 


CORBIERE  LIGHTHOUSE,  JERSEY 

ence.  There  w^as  a  stronghold  there  in  the  Saxon  time  before 
the  Roman  occupation,  and  a  castle  ever  since.  There  the 
coach  dropped  us  and  we  took  an  omnibus  for  Newport,  a 
mile  distant,  and  ten  minutes  by  train  brought  us  to  Cowes, 
connecting  with  steamer  for  Southampton,  where  we  arrived 
in  time  for  a  late  supper. 

We  went  immediately  to  the  boat  for  this  place  and  were 
just  in  time  to  get  the  last  berth  in  the  ladies'  cabin  for  me  and 
the  last  in  the  other  for  CliflF.    We  each  took  a  dose  of  bromide, 

hoping  to  avoid  sickness.     The  ships  are  new  and  very  well 

198 


THE  CHANNEL  ISLANDS 

furnished  with  electric  Hght.  They  wanted  £2  extra  for  a 
private  cabin,  so  I  went  in  with  the  polloi.  I  went  sound 
asleep  at  ten  o'clock  but  the  people  coming  in  at  midnight 
woke  me  up  and  the  boat  started  and  I  didn't  get  asleep  until 
after  I  had  been  terribly  seasick  and  was  exhausted. 

We  arrived  at  Guernsey  at  six  and  walked  up  to  the  old 
Government  House  Hotel  w^hich  has  a  beautiful  garden  and 
view  over  the  bay.  I  was  so  perfectly  "worn  out  I  w^ent  to  bed 
until  lunch;  then  in  the  afternoon  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove 


CREUX  HARBOR,  SARK 


to  Mctor  Hugo's  house  and  were  admitted  to  all  the  rooms, 
altho  his  grandchildren  had  just  come  for  the  summer. 

Then  we  went  to  one  of  the  bays.  The  grand  rocky  coast 
is  wonderfully  fine  and  the  country  roads  so  picturesque  with 
high  hedges.  We  had  a  good  night's  rest  which  we  sadly  needed 
and  took  the  steamer  to  Sark  yesterday  for  the  day. 

I  haven't  time  to  describe  the  wonderful  feats  of  walking 
and  climbing  into  caves,  the  terrible  chasms,  the  ideal 
loveliness  of  Sark  and  the  primitiveness  and  loneliness.  I 
would  like  to  go  there  sometime  to  stay.  We  had  to  get  up 
very  early  to  take  the  same  Southampton  boat  and  arrived 

199 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

here  at  eight  o'clock,  took  a  coach  at  eleven  and   have  been 
driving  until  five  this  P.  M. 

To-morrow  morning  we  go  on  to  St.  Malo  and  will  cable. 
We  have  not  yet  heard  of  the  arrival  of  our  Queenstown  letters 
but  hope  to  get  a  large  mail  to-morrow  at  St.  Malo.  These 
Islands  are  crowded  with  travellers  and  boats  also.  I  expected 
to  find  them  much  less  populated. 

Love  to  all, 
Yours  aflP.,  M.  D.  R. 


FRANCE 


Dinard,  July  i6,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

We  are  staying  at  the  Hotel  de  Casino  at  Dinard.  I  get 
along  well  in  my  French  and  can  understand  all  that  is  said 
to  me  and  make  everyone  understand  me,  St.  Malo  is  an 
ugly  little  walled  town  where  the  tide  rises  and  falls  eighteen 
feet  and  in  the  early  spring,  forty  feet.  I  received  a  letter 
from  Dr.  Messel  returning  the  photo  of  you  I  had  sent  him. 
I  enclose  the  note.  It  was  the  amateur  picture  taken  at 
Island  Heights. 

Most  of  the  people  in  the  hotel  are  English  and  Americans. 
The  hotel  is  right  on  the  water  front  of  a  fine  beach  and  the 
Casino  faces  us.  Mother  left  her  keys  in  the  custom  house 
when  our  baggage  was  examined  and  I  had  to  go  all  the  way 
back  to  St.  Malo  for  them.  I  jabbered  French,  however,  and 
got  them  all  back.  Mother  is  down  at  the  Casino  taking  a 
warm  bath.  They  have  the  funniest  banks  over  here  I  ever 
saw.  Everyone  was  away  for  dinner  when  we  arrived,  and 
we  had  to  go  and  hunt  them  up. 

I  saw  a  peasant  woman  making  lace  and  it  was  very  in- 
teresting. The  St.  Johns  fire  must  have  been  an  awful  thing. 
We  heard  a  good  deal  about  it  in  England. 

Love  to  all. 

Cliff,  not  Cliffy. 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Mont  St.  Michel,  France, 

July  17th,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

We  arrived  here  this  morning  and  had  lunch.  We  are 
staying  at  Madame  Poulard's,  which  is  described  in  "Three 
Normandy  Inns"  which  Uncle  Joe  lent  mother.  We  had  some 
splendid  omelette  and  roast  chicken.  Mont  St.  Michel  is  a 
high  rock  surrounded  entirely  with  flat  sand.  The  tide  comes 
in  in  a  couple  of  minutes  over  the  miles  of  sand.  It  is  just 
like  a  great  flat  plain.     Mother  sends  her  love. 

C. 

Mont  St.  Michel,  July  17th,  1892. 
Dear  Laura: 

I  wrote  Thursday  night  to  Frank,  describing  everything 
up  to  that  date.  We  had  a  perfectly  smooth  ride  of  three 
hours  to  St,  Malo.  Our  first  day  on  French  soil  was  a  picnic. 
I  wished  to  spend  only  a  few  hours  at  St.  Malo  seeing  the  town, 
and  to  go  to  spend  the  night  at  Dinard,  a  French  watering 
place  across  the  bay.  The  tides  are  so  peculiar  that  you  take 
the  boat  one  hour  at  one  place  and  another  hour  miles  away. 
So  after  going  through  the  Custom  House  when  I  forgot  my 
keys,  we  had  to  drive  all  the  way  to  St.  Servant  and  sent  all 
the  luggage  over  to  Dinard  without  any  receipt  or  anything 
to  show  for  it,  and  as  soon  as  I  had  done  it  I  was  scared  stiff. 

We  then  went  to  the  bankers,  got  our  first  mail  acknowl- 
edging the  first  mail  from  Queenstown,  and  some  money. 
We  took  our  lunch  at  a  hotel  and  drove  around  the  city,  which 
is  a  very  interesting  old  walled  city.  Then  we  went  to  the 
boat  and  arrived  at  Dinard  in  the  middle  of  the  afternoon. 
Found  Dinard  a  beautiful  place  with  a  casino  and  our  hotel 
close  by  it. 

Dinard  is  a  most  picturesque  place  with  pretty  villas  and 
gardens  upon  high  rocks.  The  tide  rises  so  high  that  the  whole 
aspect  of  the  place  is  entirely  different  at  high  and  low  tide. 
We  started  off  this  Sunday  morning  and  took  the  boat  on  the 


FRANCE 

river  Ranee  for  Dinan,  a  beautiful  river  with  high  banks  and 
castles  perched  up  on  top.  The  common  women  wear  the 
Breton  caps,  but  generally  black  dresses  with  shawls  on  their 
shoulders. 

It  is  provoking  to  only  be  able  to  stay  a  day  in  a  place 
where  I  would  like  to  stay  a  week.  At  Dinan  there  are  so 
many  interesting  castles  we  had  to  renounce  seeing.  We  took 
our  baggage  to  the  railroad  station  and  had  a  good  lunch  at  a 
hotel  where  a  woman  waited  on  us  with  a  real  Breton  cap. 
We  went  to  the  old  Chateau  and  Cathedral  and  drove  through 
the  streets  and  saw  the  old  houses  and  the  peasants  coming 
from  church.  Then  we  took  a  train  intending  to  spend  the 
night  at  Dol  and  go  on  to-morrow  to  Mont  St.  Michel.  We 
changed  from  two  hotels  to  a  third  one  beside  the  railway 
station  as  we  were  afraid  to  spend  the  night  in  them,  they  were 
so  frightfully  dirty.  I  will  have  to  leave  details  until  I  get 
home. 

Trouville,  July  20th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  left  Dinard  Sunday  morning,  going  up  the  Ranee  by 
boat  as  I  wrote  Laura,  and  spent  the  day  at  Dinan  and  the 
night  at  Dol,  and  went  to  St.  Michel  Monday  morning.  All 
the  time  we  had  perfect  weather.  From  the  moment  we  sighted 
the  "Merveille"  St.  Michel  I  have  been  in  a  stupor  of  delight. 
I  expected  a  great  deal,  having  read  such  enthusiastic  de- 
scriptions but  nothing  can  equal  the  reality,  and  it  is  rightly 
named  the  wonder  of  the  world. 

We  were  taken  from  Pontorson  in  a  big  sort  of  omnibus 
and  stopped  dead  against  the  town  wall  with  no  gate  in  sight. 
Then  we  got  out  and  went  round  to  another  side  where  there 
was  a  gate.  From  that  a  narrow  street  without  sidewalks  and 
a  gutter  in  the  middle,  led  up  through  the  little  town  there  is. 
At  the  left,  quite  near  the  gate,  was  the  Hotel  of  Poulard  Aine, 
where  we  were  to  put  up.  At  the  door  was  Madame,  just  as 
handsome  as  the  book  (Three  Normandy  Inns)  describes  her, 
and  she  ushered  us  into  a  great   kitchen   with  a  hoveled  iire- 

203 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

place — immense — but  only  a  small  wood  fire.  On  a  spit  in 
front  of  the  fire  at  least  a  dozen  chickens  were  turning  slowly 
and  roasting,  preparing  for  the  eleven  o'clock  dinner.  Crowds 
of  people  were  coming  in,  starved,  and  we  concluded  to  stay 
there  until  after  breakfast,  as  we  had  to  mount  200  steps  to 
our  rooms  in  a  separate  house.  So  I  sat  myself  down  by  the 
fire,  which  was  not  too  warm  (July  i8th)  and  watched  Madame 
Poulard  make  her  celebrated  omelettes. 

There  are  three  dining  rooms  on  three  separate  floors,  one 
opposite  the  kitchen,  an  open  room,  and  one  on  the  first  floor 


T  SAIXT   .MICHEL 


over  the  kitchen,  and  the  other  above  that.     I  never  had  a 

more  delicious  meal.     First,  the  perfect  omelette,  then  fish 

cooked  to  perfection,  then  chickens  so  juicy  and  tender,  and 

large  cherries  for  dessert.     The  table  seated  forty  people  and 

there  were  two  sets,  eleven  and  twelve  o'clock. 

To  go  to  our  rooms  we  crossed  the  street,  went  up  on  the 

town  wall,  crossed  back  over  the  street  by  a  bridge  and  went 

up  a  circular  flight  of  stone  steps  to  our  rooms.     The  house 

consisted  of  four  stories  of  tiny  single  rooms;  the  lower  floor 

opened  on  a  terrace  with  wall  and  a  row  of  dwarf  plantain 

trees,  trimmed  very  low  and  making  a  perfect  shade,  and  tables 

204 


FRANCE 

and  chairs  there.    Our  rooms  were  on  the  second  floor  and  had 
a  porch. 

I  had  scarcely  made  myself  comfortable  when  I  heard  the 
voices  of  Mrs.  Denckla  and  the  others,  and  was  glad  enough 
to  see  them,  and  we  all  started  off  together  to  see  the  Abbeys, 
etc.,  etc.     It  took  us  three  hours  steady  climbing  and  walking, 


L'ESCALIER  DE  DENTELLES,  MONT  ST.  MICHEL 

and  it  was  well  worth  it.  There  was  an  elderly  priest  with  a 
fine  face  in  our  party,  whose  picture  I  should  like  to  have  had 
taken  in  the  cloisters.  He  sighed  frequently  as  we  went 
through  the  magnificent  halls,  and  said  how  hard  it  was  to 
see  such  a  place  idle,  doing  no  good. 

There  are  many  parts  being  restored  now  by  the  govern- 
ment.   The  beauty  of  the  "escalier  de  dentelle"  and  the  flying 

205 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

buttresses  which  support  It,  are  beyond  my  powers  of  descrip- 
tion also  the  effect  of  the  shadows  of  the  clouds  on  the  wet 
sand  when  the  tide  was  out.  The  feeling  of  immense  height 
when  looking  over  from  the  stairways  and  open  stone  railings 
of  some  of  the  galleries  was  almost  frightful.  You  must  cer- 
tainly come  to  see  it  sometime. 

After  dinner  we  all  went  up  the  little  street  which  leads 
from  the  gate,  to  find  the  house  of  Bertrand  du  Guesclin.  It 
is  the  only  real  house  in  the  place.  The  others  were  mere  holes, 
without  windows  except  in  the  street,  the  real,  unchanged 
Medieval  homes  of  the  people;  the  animals  and  people  all 
huddled  together,  with  the  tools  of  trade.  Then  the  fisher- 
men with  blue  berets  on  their  heads  and  knitted  jackets  and 
short  trousers,  and  bare  legs  and  feet,  with  bags  thrown  over 
their  shoulders,  while  very  dirty,  were  most  picturesque. 

We  wandered  round  the  ramparts  and  couldn't  tear  our- 
selves away,  except  we  were  nearly  killed  with  fatigue.  I  de- 
cided to  give  up  the  small  towns  of  Avranches  and  Coutances 
as  there  is  very  little  that  cannot  be  seen  from  outside,  and 
to  go  on  to  Trouville  and  return  to  Caen.  I  was  glad  I  had  done 
so,  for  in  passing  through  those  towns  we  saw  all  there  was  to 
be  seen,  but  we  had  scarcely  arrived  here  last  night  when  there 
came  up  a  furious  storm,  with  about  the  worst  wind  I  have 
ever  known,  and  the  noise  of  the  surf  was  terrible  all  night. 
This  is  a  beautiful  place  and  I  am  sorry  to  have  lost,  through 
the  storm,  the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  bathing. 

We  go  in  an  hour  to  Dives  to  see  the  celebrated  Inn  of  Wil- 
liam the  Conqueror,  and  on  to  Caen  early  to-morrow.  We  have 
walked  all  around  the  beach  and  through  the  town  of  Trou- 
ville and  had  to  hold  our  hats  as  it  is  the  worst  wind  I  have 
ever  been  out  in.  The  beach  has  a  wooden  walk  on  the  level, 
hotels  are  a  little  higher,  built  around  three  sides  of  beautiful 
gardens.  The  villas  rise  behind  on  a  hill.  The  streets  are  full 
of  beautiful  shops  with  lovely  jewelry,  brocades  and  silver, 
fruit  and  confections. 

206 


FRANCE 

I  wish  I  felt  able  to  write  to  everyone,  but  it  takes  really 
all  my. time  to  write  these  descriptions  of  what  I  am  seeing, 
travelling  so  fast  as  we  do. 

With  much  love  to  all  and  for  yourself, 

Yours  aif.,  M.  D.  R. 

A  month  gone  already  and  soon  it  will  be  time  to  go  home! 

Trouville,  July  20th,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

We  are  here  in  the  middle  of  an  enormous  windstorm  and 
so,  of  course,  see  none  of  the  society  life  on  the  beach.     We 


TROUVILLE 


arrived  here  last  night  after  travelling  all  day  in  the  train. 
The  church  at  Mont  St.  Michel  is  very  interesting.  We  saw 
all  the  dungeons  and  secret  torture  chambers.  We  missed 
seeing  the  tide  come  in  at  the  Mont,  but  Madame  Poulard 
told  us  the  tides  were  very  low  just  now. 

Love  to  all, 

C. 

207 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Caen,  July  22nd,  1892. 
Dear  Uncle  Joe: 

We  are  now  in  Caen,  an  interesting  old  town  with  a  lot  of 
cathedrals.  They  are  nearly  all  Romanesque  in  style  except 
one,  which  is  in  the  flamboyant  Gothic.  The  carving  in  the 
latter  is  very  fine.  On  the  sides  of  the  naves  are  the  flying 
buttresses,  which  are  also  beautifully  decorated.  The  in- 
teriors are  quite  plain,  as  the  people  as  a  rule  are  poor,  and 
cannot  replace  the  tawdry  ornaments  which  do  not  wear  like 
the  stone  itself.  The  old  houses  here  are  somewhat  like  the 
American  or  English  Queen  Anne  style.  The  front  overhangs 
and  each  story  projects  a  little  more  than  the  other.  They 
are  composed  of  wooden  beams,  which  are  generally  carved, 
filled  in  between  with  stone,  brick,  or  plaster. 

All  the  wood  one  sees  here  is  oak,  black  and  worm  eaten. 

The  Breton  peasants  are  a  great  disappointment  to  me,  for 
although  they  still  wear  the  accustomed  headgear,  they  do 
not  wear  the  costume  or  the  sabots  and  they  talk  real  French. 
The  cooking  has  been  good  nearly  everywhere,  but  the  cus- 
toms of  serving  are  not  much  different. 

Love  to  all, 

Clifford. 

Tours,  July  24th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  wrote  you  about  the  storm  at  Trouville,  which  was  at 
night.  We  came  back  to  Dives  that  evening  in  order  to  spend 
the  night  at  the  Inn  called  Guillaume  le  Conquerant.  It  was 
just  as  curious  and  interesting  as  I  expected.  It  was  built 
around  a  court  and  was  full  of  delightful  things,  and  there 
were  two  perfectly  beautiful  rooms  with  magnificent  carved 
high  dados  and  tapestry  above  and  wonderful  cabinets  and 
bric-a-brac.  They  were  where  Madame  de  Sevigne  had  spent 
the  evening  with  the  Duchess  de  something.  The  bed  rooms 
all  opened  off    very  low  galleries   which   went  all   around  the 

court  on  the  second  floor.    I  had  Madame  de  Sevigne's  room 

208 


FRANCE 

and  couldn't  sleep;  I  was  so  afraid  the  canopy  of  magnificent, 
but  very  old  brocade  would  fall  on  me. 

The  rest  of  the  Inn  looked  very  old  and  poor,  and  I  cannot 
take  time  to  tell  you  of  the  all  curious  things  there  now.  We 
took  an  early  morning  train  to  Caen  and  spent  the  afternoon 
seeing  the  town,  the  Abbaye  aux  Hommes  and  Abbaye  aux 
Femmes,  founded  by  William  the  Conqueror  and  his  wife, 
Mathilde.    Caen  Is  very  old  and  interesting;  the  streets  very 


THE  INN  OF  GUILLAUME  LE  CONQUERANT.  DIVES 

narrow  and  full  of  life.    Our  hotel,  the  Grande  Bretagne,  was 
terribly  old,  but  had  an  excellent  cuisine. 

The  second  day,  Friday,  we  went  out  to  Bayeux  to  see  the 
famous  tapestry,  and  spent  three  hours,  saw  a  very  fine  cathe- 
dral, etc.,  and  on  Saturday  came  directly  here  to  Tours,  start- 
ing at  9.30  and  arriving  at  8.  We  had  to  spend  two  hours  at 
LeMans  and  went  all  over  the  town,  the  Cathedral  very  fine 
and  the  house  where  Queen  Berengaria  lived  after  the  death 
of  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.  We  were  scarcely  tired  when  we 
got  here  as  the  trains  go  slowly  and  there  Is  almost  no  motion, 

but  we  were  hungry  and  got  a  good  dinner. 
14  209 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  found  on  inquiry  that  we  could  see  both  Chenonceaux 
and  Amboise  in  one  day.  We  met  the  Emersons  from  Boston 
and  spent  the  whole  day  with  them. 

We  drove  from  Chenonceaux  in  carriages  to  Amboise  after 
lunching  at  the  "Bon  Laboureur"  where  we  had  fresh  wild 
strawberries  and  large  red  and  white  raspberries,  and  sucre 
d'orge. 

Amboise  is  the  property  of  the  Comte  de  Paris  and  he  is 


CHATEAU  DE  CHENONCEAUX 


restoring  it  to  the  state  it  was  in  in  the  Fifteenth  Century. 
A  great  part  of  it  is  uninhabitable  at  present.  The  Chapel  of 
St.  Hubert  is  perfectly  beautiful.  We  went  down  into  the 
town  and  out  of  the  chateau  by  an  enormous  tower,  not  by 
a  staircase,  but  by  an  inclined  plane  which  was  used  by  eques- 
trians and  up  which  Charles  V  w^as  conducted  by  Henry  H 
when  he  came  to  visit  him,  by  torchlight.  An  iron-railed  gallery 
out  of  one  of  the  rooms  is  where  Francis  H  and  Mary  Stuart, 
Catherine  de  Medici  and  her  two  sons  witnessed  the  massacre 
of  the  Huguenots  in  the  streets  far  below.  Leonardo  da  Vinci 
also  died  and  was  buried  there  at  that  castle. 


FRANCE 

I  hope  to  see  two  more  castles  to-morrow.  Although  it 
Is  Sunday  night,  the  band  is  playing  the  Marseillaise  and  I  can 
see  some  fountains  from  my  windows  on  the  Boulevard.  It  was 
quite  a  coincidence,  our  meeting  the  Emersons.  Just  as  we 
were  leaving  Mont  St.  Michel  last  Tuesday  morning,  Madame 


CHATEAU   D'AMBOISE 


Poulard  asked  us  to  write  our  names  in  her  book.  There  we 
saw  the  following  verse  signed  with  three  Emerson  names 
from  Boston: 


"Joan  of  Arc  at  point  of  lance, 
Drove  the  English  out  of  France; 
But  Madame  Poulard  better  yet, 
Brings  them  back  with  an  omelette. 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  thought  it  very  clever  and  all  learned  it  by  heart,  so  when 
I  found  these  people  were  named  Emerson,  it  flashed  upon  me 
who  they  were,  and  I  repeated  the  verse  much  to  their  sur- 
prise and  Mr.  E.  asked  where  I  found  the  verse.  They  will 
spend  the  night  of  September  27th  at  the  Adelphi,  as  we  ex- 
pect to  do,  but  sail  by  another  line.  Cliff  and  I  have  made  up 
our  minds  that  you  must  come  over,  if  only  for  two  or  three 
weeks  and  take  us  home 

With  much  love  from  both  of  us, Yours  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S. — We  have  struck  our  first  warm  weather.  As  usual,  the 
sun  shines  brightly.  I  don't  know  what  we  should  think  if 
we  should  find  it  raining  some  day.  There  is  so  much  cool 
breeze  that  the  heat  is  perfectly  bearable  and  not  at  all  op- 
pressive, and  the  nights  are  very  cool.  They  can  beat  us  all 
to  pieces  with  climate. 

Tours,  Monday,  July  25,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

The  scenery  in  this  part  of  France  is  much  more  interest- 
ing than  in  Normandy.  Besides  being  hilly  and  rough,  it  is 
wilder.  We  went  to  see  the  Chateau  of  the  Comte  de  Paris 
yesterday.  The  chateau  at  Chenonceaux  is  much  more  in- 
teresting and  is  built  on  a  stone  bridge  across  the  river  Cher. 

Love  to  all.  C. 

Tuesday,  July  26th,  1892. 
Tours. 
Dear  Papa: 

France  is  a  queer  place  in  the  evening.  All  is  gayety  and 
life,  the  streets  are  full  of  people  and  so  are  the  cafes,  and  yet 
with  all  the  sins  and  vices  here,  drunkenness  is  not  included. 
We  drove  all  around  the  town  this  morning. 

The  weather  here  to-day  has  been  quite  warm.  We  go  to 
Blois  this  evening  and  if  it  has  not  cooled  off  it  will  be  nasty 
travelling.  The  poor  soldiers  have  a  hard  time  here,  especially 
the  recruits,  who  have  to  make  long  marches  every  day  to 
learn  to  keep  step.  Love  to  all,  C. 


FRANCE 

Grand  Hotel  de  Blois, 

Blois,  July  27th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  came  here  late  yesterday  evening  to  avoid  the  heat, 
and  went  this  morning  to  see  the  Chateau  of  Blois,  quite  nearby 
and  very  beautiful  and  interesting  historically;  and  drove  to 
Chambord  this  afternoon.  It  was  a  long,  dusty  drive,  but 
fortunately  for  us  the  sun  stayed  under  a  cloud. 

The  Emersons  concluded  to  give  it  up  and  I  did  not  feel 
repaid  though  I  am  glad  to  have  seen  it.  The  weather  is  very 
warm  and  I  begin  to  feel  that  we  have  done  enough  rapid 
travelling,  and  will  get  to  Hombourg  as  soon  as  possible, 
and  rest. 

I  had  written  to  the  Rochambeaus  in  French  that  I  expected 
to  pass  through  Vendome  and  would  stop  off  to  call  on  them. 
When  we  returned  from  Chambord  we  found  a  telegram  from 
the  Marquis  telling  me  to  get  my  tickets  for  a  certain  station 
and  he  would  meet  me  there,  so  we  all  start  to-morrow  at  8.40 
and  if  they  don't  insist  upon  our  staying  over  night,  I  shall 
go  on  to  Chartres  for  the  night  and  be  in  Paris  the  next  day. 
I  am  in  my  usual  condition  of  shabby  clothes  and  shall  have 
to  buy  a  dress  in  Paris  to  present  a  respectable  appearance  at 
Hombourg. 

I  never  saw  such  a  table  as  they  have  at  this  hotel;  one 

is  just  stuffed.    They  had  delicious  melon  after  the  soup;  then 

pates  of  sweetbread,  then  salmon,  then  filet  with  tomatoes, 

then  duck,  then  artichokes,  then  string  beans,  then  chicken 

and   salad,   then   pudding,   then   most  delicious   small   eclairs 

served  in  little  papers  like  Marrons  glaces,  then  large  dishes 

of  peaches,  grapes,  nectarines,  strawberries  and   raspberries, 

cherries,  white  and  red  vin  ordinaire. 

I  hope  we  shall  find  plenty  of  letters  at  Paris  to  find  out 

how  you  all  are  and  what  you  are  doing.     Will  write  you  all 

about  our  visit. 

With  love  to  all. 

Yours  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 
213 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Grand  Hotel  de  Blois, 

Blois  27th  July,  1892. 
Dear  Laura: 

We  have  been  travelling  so  rapidly  and  so  hard  that  I 
could  not  write  oftener.  It  has  been  very  hard  work  seeing 
these  chateaux  along  the  Loire.  We  found  hot  weather  when 
we  got  to  Tours.  We  went  in  an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  train  to 
Chenonceaux,  had  our  lunch,  saw  the  castle,  then  drove  eight 
miles  across  country  to  Amboise  and  back  to  Tours  by  rail- 
road. 

The  third  day  I  gave  up  Loches  and  Chinon  and  saw  the 
city  of  Tours,  and  took  a  train  at  seven  p.  m.  and  got  here  at 
nine.  We  have  been  doing  all  the  castles  with  the  Emersons, 
of  Boston.  They  know  all  the  people  we  know  of  Boston,  and 
are  clever  and  related  to  Ralph  Waldo. 

The  Rochambeaus  have  telegraphed  me  to  stop  at  a  small 
station  near  Vendome  and  they  will  meet  me,  so  we  are  off 
to-morrow  morning  having  seen  the  two  chateaux  of  Blois 
and  Chambord.  I  feel  now  that  w^e  must  get  somewhere  to 
rest,  that  we  have  done  enough  rapid  travelling. 

I  am  trying  to  write  in  this  salon  de  lecture  but  the  pen 
is  too  bad  and  I  shall  have  to  retire  to  my  room.  I  am 
so  stupefied  with  good  things  and  wish  I  could  get  the 
cook  of  this  Hotel  to  take  home  with  me.  Unfortunately 
this  warm  weather  takes  away  one's  appetite.  I  think 
we  have  been  so  fortunate,  in  the  first  place  to  have  had 
such  delightful  cool  and  even  cold  weather  for  our  hard  travel- 
ling, and  never  have  had  one  day  of  rain.  It  rained  hard 
when  I  was  in  the  South  Kensington  Museum  and  that 
is  all.  It  is  thundering  now^  at  nine  p.  m.  and  I  hope  it 
w411  rain  and  cool  the  air. 

I  dread  two  days  in  Paris  with  cholera  there,  but  I  have 
to  get  a  new  dress  to  make  a  respectable  appearance  in  Hom- 
bourg  and  get  my  brown  jacket  fixed  up.  I  have  felt  per- 
fectly well  and  energetic  all  the  time  because  the  weather  has 

been  so  favorable.     Aiost  of  my  days  are  as  much  labor  as 

214 


FRANCE 

going  to  New  York  for  the  day  from  Philadelphia,  but  I  shall 
do  nothing  at  Hombourg.  Hot  weather  takes  all  the  ambition 
right  out  of  me  and  makes  me  long  for  a  bath  tub,   . 

Paris,  July  29th,   1892. 

Yesterday  morning  I  had  thought  of  going  to  church,  when 
it  was  suggested  it  might  be  a  little  risky  on  account  of  cholera, 
so  I  rested  and  stayed  in  all  morning.  Then  at  five,  Cliflf  and 
I  went  up  the  Eiffel  Tower.  It  is  amusing  how  we  always 
strike  cheap  days  without  knowing  it.  It  only  cost  the  two  of 
us  four  fares  to  go  up  and  down,  and  we  dined  on  the  pre- 
mier etage.  It  was  a  wonderful  sight,  and  the  surroundings 
of  the  Tour,  the  Trocadero  and  Champ  de  Mars,  and  the  build- 
ings left  from  the  exhibition  are  wonderfully  beautiful. 

We  came  back  on  one  of  the  Seine  boats  from  the  Tour 
Eiffel  to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde,  just  to  try  them.     They 
■go  wonderfully  fast,  and  although  it  is  out  of  season,  and  every- 
body supposed  to  be  away,  both  boats  and  omnibuses  are  cram 
full  all  the  time. 

It  was  delightfully  comfortable  on  the  Tower,  but  the  crowd 
in  the  elevators  was  frightful.  I  cannot  get  away  from  here 
before  Wednesday  morning,  August  3rd,  and  we  expect  to  go 
straight  to  Strasbourg  and  Frankfort  to  let  Clifford  do  the 
Rhine  while  I  am  at  Hombourg,  as  I  don't  want  to  take  the 
time  for  it.  It  has  been  very  hot  but  is  raining  now  and  I  hope 
will  be  cooler.     I  do  wish  you  could  be  here  with  us. 

With  love  to  all, 

Aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  July  29th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

Here  we  are  in  Paris  suffering  with  the  heat.  I  am  ob- 
liged to  stay  here  two  or  three  days  to  get  a  dress.  We  went 
to  the  Rochambeau's  yesterday  morning  from  Blois.  The 
Marquis  met  us  at  the  station  and  took  us  in  a  Victoria  to 

215 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

his  chateau.  It  looked  exactly  as  I  expected  a  French  chateau 
to  look.  The  river  Loir  passes  in  front  of  it,  and  the  strip  of 
land  between  it  and  the  house  has  a  hedge  of  roses.  The 
house  was  long,  the  way  of  the  River,  and  shallow,  only  one 
room  deep.  We  were  conducted  through  three  or  four  salons 
beautifully  furnished  with  real  old  Louis  XV  furniture,  and 
then  I  was  taken  upstairs  to  Mme.  de  Rochambeau's  room. 
She  has  been  very  ill  so  she  can't  walk.  No  one  could  have 
been  more  cordial.     She  kissed  me  on  both  cheeks  and  held 


MARQUIS  DE  ROCHAMBEAU 

my  hand  and  made  the  biggest  fuss  over  me.  They  then 
brought  in  the  whole  family.  The  oldest  son  with  his  wife  and 
baby*;  the  next  son  who  is  in  some  office  in  Paris  and  has  had 
the  grippe  and  been  at  home  convalescing,  and  then  the  young 
boy  who  was  born  after  they  returned  from  America.  The 
doctor  came  and  we  all  went  downstairs,  and  I  was  shown  the 
family  portraits  and  miniatures.  Both  their  ancestors  were 
Marechals  de  France;  they  have  full  length  portraits  of  them 
and  beautiful  portraits  of  women;  the  Marechal's  sword  and 
orders  and  the  robe  of  the  Saint  Esprit  (Santo  Spirito). 

When  lunch  was  served,  I  found  a  crowd  of  company,  the 

*The  "  babies  "  grown  to  manhood  were  killed  in  battle  in  1916  in  France! 

216 


FRANCE 

doctor  with  his  wife  and  baby,  three  Abbes,  a  Count  some- 
body, who  has  married  an  American  wife  and  who  was  a  per- 
fectly charming  man.  I  was  the  guest  of  honor  and  taken  in 
on  the  Marquis'  arm.  They  had  a  nice  lunch  of  several  courses, 
three  or  four  kinds  of  wine  and  champagne.  Two  men  in 
livery;  you  would  have  laughed  to  see  how  perfectly  at  my 
ease  I  was.  I  talked  as  much  as  anyone  and  even  made  jokes. 
After  lunch  we  found  Madame  had  been  brought  down 
into  the  salon  the  first  time.  She  was  so  very  enthusiastic 
over  me  I  couldn't  help  being  flattered  and  she  raved  over 


CHATEAU  DE  ROCHAMBEAU,  VENDOME 

America.  I  told  them  they  must  certainly  come  over  next 
year  and  we  would  do  all  we  could  for  her.  The  second  son 
had  to  come  to  Paris  in  the  afternoon,  so  we  travelled  together 
as  far  as  Voves.  We  went  in  a  private  omnibus,  with  our  bag- 
gage on  top,  to  Vendome,  and  the  Marquis  took  me  through 
the  cathedral  and  showed  me  all  the  sights.  They  have  be- 
hind their  house  a  hill  which  is  riddled  with  caves,  former 
dwellings  of  a  race  called  the  "cave  dwellers."  They  have 
been  like  that  3000  years!  We  noticed  all  through  the  Tour- 
aine  from  Tours  all  along  the  Loire,  the  hills  pierced  with  holes. 
They  make  use  of  them  now  to  store  things  and  as  stables, 
and  even  as  dwellings.     Mme.  has  built  a  handsome  chapel 

and  they  have  Mass  twice  a  week. 

217 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


218 


FRANCE 

They  had  so  much  to  say  about  Joe  and  Fanny  and  praised 
them  to  the  skies,  and  hoped  they  would  certainly  see  them 
over  here  and  sent  all  sorts  of  messages  to  them.  They  also 
sent  their  greetings  to  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Childs  and  spoke  of  the 
Drexels.  The  whole  family  saw  us  off  and  the  Marquis  all 
the  way  to  Vendome  and  put  us  in  the  train.  The  son  was 
very  nice  in  the  train.  They  all  raved  over  Laura's  picture, 
which  I  happened  to  have  with  me. 

They  all  said  it  was  all  bosh  about  cholera  in  Paris,  and 
we  find  it  full  of  Americans.    We  spent  last  night  in  Chartres 


THE  CHAMBER  AND  DEATHBED  OF  COUNT  ROCHAMBEAU 

The  embroidery  on  bed  and  chairs  was  worked  by  the  Countess  during  her  husband's  campaign  in  the 

United  States.     The  portrait  presented  by  General  Washington. 

and  went  early  this  morning  to  see  the  cathedral,  which  is 
wonderful,  and  took  the  express  here,  arriving  at  one. 

If  I  happen  to  get  sick,  or  to  feel  that  I  need  a  day's  rest 
I  am  going  to  take  it,  and  not  feel  that  sick  or  well  I  must  be 
at  any  place  on  the  minute. 

George  B.  Roberts  is  here  with  his  wife  and  oldest  child 
and  says  he  would  like  to  stay  here  in  all  this  heat.  They  only 
arrived  yesterday.  I  have  not  yet  got  my  tickets  for  Bay- 
reuth.  The  man  in  Dresden  wrote  July  3rd  I  could  have 
tickets  for  July  28th.    Good-bye,  with  love. 

Yours  affly.,  M.  D.  R. 


GERMANY 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel, 

Hombourg,  August  6,  1892. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary: 

While  I  am  waiting  here  to  see  if  I  can  get  rooms,  I  will 
write  a  few  lines.  We  arrived  here  last  night  after  leaving 
Paris  the  morning  of  the  day  before,  spent  the  night  at  Stras- 
bourg and  stayed  until  noon  looking  at  the  town.  The  cathe- 
dral was  a  dream  of  beauty  and  the  town  full  of  quaint  and 
interesting  houses. 

My  first  uncomfortable  train  ride  since  I  came  over  was 
yesterday  coming  from  Strasbourg  to  Frankfort.  There  was  so 
much  motion  and  the  men  smoked  everywhere.  They  had 
no  rooms  for  us  here  and  sent  us  to  another  place  where  we 
had  a  good  dinner,  but  I  didn't  like  the  rooms.  It  was  directly 
in  front  of  the  Kursaalhaus,  and  up  the  street  from  this  hotel. 
After  dinner  we  went  into  the  Kurgarten,  which  was  brilliant 
with  electric  lights  and  lanterns  and  a  fine  military  band  was 
giving  a  concert,  and  it  was  full  moonlight,  but  I  was  too  tired 
and  cold  to  stay  long. 

This  is  the  sort  of  place  where  you  want  fine  clothes,  and  I 

have  mighty  little.     My  black  grenadine  and  Egan  black  silk 

are  already  very  shabby;  my  fawn  colored  woolen  and  velvet 

dirty  and  discolored.     I  went  to  Doucet  in  Paris  and  got  an 

India  silk,  black  ground,  with  dull  pale  blue  narrow  stripes 

and  pin  dots  between,  trimmed  with  handsome  black  lace  in 

220 


GERMANY 

some  parts  over  blue,  so  I  have  that  to  dress  up  in;  but  I  went 
to  a  cheap  dressmaker  and  had  a  dark  blue  crepon  made  up 
with  a  little  black  satin  ribbon  and  some  black  guipure,  and 
I  don't  like  it.  I  am  done  with  cheap  dressmakers,  only  I 
wear  out  my  clothes  so  dreadfully,  I  need  so  many.  My  Egan 
black  silk  is  the  only  dress  I  have  a  decent  figure  in. 

I  have  my  tickets  for  the  Parsifal  at  Bayreuth  for  the  2ist, 
which  gives  me  only  two  weeks  here,  but  I  cannot  help  it. 


HOMBOURG 


I  find  everything  so  dear.  I  had  to  pay  ^iio  in  Paris  for  an 
India  silk,  and  everything  in  proportion.  The  only  cheap 
things  are  some  gloves  and  stockings.  I  preferred  the  Bon 
Marche  to  the  Louvre  in  almost  everything,  but  one  day  found 
the  same  stockings  at  the  Louvre  for  9  frcs.  50  I  had  paid  12 
frcs.  50  Bon  Marche  and  14  shillings  in  London  at  Army  and 
Navy  stores. 

With  love  for  all. 

Yours  aff.,  M  .D.  R. 


221 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel, 

Hombourg,  Aug.  9th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  have  just  got  }'our  two  letters  dated  July  29th  enclosing 
one  to  you  from  Laura  and  acknowledging  a  cablegram  from 
Paris.  We  arrived  here  Friday  night  and  finally  settled  here 
Saturday  noon  and  will  leave  for  Bayreuth  just  two  weeks 
from  that  day  and  spend  Sunday,  the  21st  there,  and  then  on 
to  San  Moritz.  We  have  two  nice  rooms,  one  facing  the  hotel 
garden  and  the  other  another  garden,  so  we  have  a  fine  draught 
of  air  and  are  comfortable.  I  went  at  once  to  see  the  doctor 
but  he  said  that  two  wrecks  were  a  very  short  time  to  do  much 
good.  I  did  not  care  to  make  the  trip  to  Bayreuth  and  return 
here,  it  is  too  far  away. 

Most  of  the  w^omen  have  large  bunches  of  flowers  and  it 
looks  very  pretty  on  a  sunny  day.  It  rained  here  this  morn- 
ing, and  has  been  very  warm,  but  cool  at  night.  W^e  all  went 
in  to  the  hop  last  night  to  look  on.  The  Prince  of  Wales*  is 
expected  on  Sunday,  I  believe,  and  as  he  dines  on  the  Kursaal 
Terrace  every  night,  we  shall  probably  see  him.  They  say 
the  ex-Empress  Frederick  goes  to  the  Springs  every  day,  but 
I  have  not  seen  her. 

I  have  taken  the  water  now  three  days.  My  rules  are  to 
be  at  the  spring  about  eight.  It  takes  me  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes  to  get  there;  then  I  drink  one  glass  and  walk 
fifteen  minutes;  then  another  and  back  to  breakfast  a  half 
hour  later.  Then  at  four  in  the  afternoon  the  same  thing.  I 
have  been  feeling  perfectly  strong  and  well,  but  since  I  have 
been  taking  this  water,  I  can  hardly  get  back  to  the  hotel,  I 
feel  so  dead  tired.  ' 

They  say  Mark  Twain  and  Oscar  Wilde  are  here,  and 
in  our  hotel  there  is  the  Duchess  of  Bedford  and  she  is 
a  sight. 

Most  of  the  people  we  know  are  gone  to  Switzerland.  We 
are  going  to  Frankfort  some  day  to  spend  the  day.     I  would 

*  Afterward  King  Edward. 


GERMANY 

like  Clifford  to  go  to  Wiesbaden  and  as  far  as  Coblentz  and 
back  again,  if  possible,  while  we  are  here,  but  have  made  no 
plans  as  yet.  We  leave  here  on  Saturday  noon  of  the  20th 
and  arrive  at  Bayreuth  at  midnight.  I  prefer  this  to  getting  up 
at  four  in  the  morning.  I  had  no  idea  it  was  so  long  a  trip; 
thought  it  took  about  five  hours.  It  is  less  than  200  miles, 
so  you  see  how  they  travel  here. 

I  go  to  bed  hungry  every  night  because  I  am  not  allowed 
fruit  or  salad  and  sweet  things,  and  I  don't  get  enough  to  eat 
to  go  to  sleep  on;  but  I  guess  I  can  stand  it  for  two  weeks. 
This  climate  is  a  good  deal  like  Newport.  I  long  for  the  moun- 
tains and  Switzerland. 

I  never  go  over  the  same  ground  twice,  to  avoid  expense  and 
to  see  more.  I  am  glad  we  stopped  at  Strasbourg  as  it  was  so 
interesting. 

With  love  to  all,  and  wishing  you  could  be  here  with  us 
and  enjoying  things  as  I  do. 

Yours  aff.,  M   D.  R. 

Hombourg,  Aug.  14,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

Two  letters  from  you  yesterday  dated  July  29th  and  Au- 
gust 1st,  so  you  see  they  came  together,  although  written  three 
days  apart.  Clifford  went  yesterday  to  Coblentz,  taking  the 
Rhine  steamer  at  Bieberich,  and  was  going  to  Wiesbaden  by 
train  to-day  to  see  your  relative,  Mr.  Rosengarten,  the  archi- 
tect, and  will  perhaps  be  home  to-night.  I  will  take  my  dinner 
at  the  Kursaal  with  the  Warrens  to-night.  I  went  to  church 
with  him  at  the  castle  where  the  Empress  Frederick  lives. 
She  and  her  daughter  were  present  in  a  sort  of  gallery,  up 
above  the  pulpit.  Calvary  church  is  a  palace  compared  with 
it  and  every  other  detail  in  the  same  proportion. 

We  are  going  to-morrow  to  Frankfort  to  see  the  Roths- 
child's collection.  I  shall  not  have  time  to  look  up  people  as 
I  shall  only  be  there  a  few  hours. 

223 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Hombourg,  August  17th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  have  been  scorched  here  for  three  or  four  days,  and 
I  find  it  hard  to  get  down  in  the  morning  to  the  springs  and 
then  at  eleven  for  my  bath  and  late  in  the  afternoon  again  to 
drink.  In  the  evenings  there  is  nothing  to  do  after  dinner 
but  go  up  to  the  Kursaal  and  see  the  crowd.  Sometimes  we 
dine  there.  The  Duke  of  Cambridge,  cousin  to  Queen  Vic- 
toria, sat  near  us,  dines  here  every  day,  and  all  the  swells  dine 
at  that  time.  We  leave  here  Saturday  at  noon,  take  the  1.30 
train  for  Frankfort  and  arrive  at  Nuremberg,  seven  something, 
and  get  to  Bayreuth  before  eleven. 

Monday  we  will  go  back  to  Nuremberg  and  from  there  to 
Innsbruck  and  Landeck,  and  drive  from  there  to  St.  Moritz, 
where  I  long  to  be,  for  they  say  it  is  always  cool  there,  being 
so   high. 

Aflt.,    M.  D.  R. 

Hombourg,  Friday,  August  19,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  leave  here  to-morrow  noon,  and  arrive  at  Bayreuth 
eleven  at  night.  We  have  had  most  terrible  heat  here  for 
over  a  week,  and  I  have  suffered  as  much  as  I  ever  did  in  my 
life.  Yesterday  I  was  out  in  the  sun  too  much  and  am  pay- 
ing up  for  it  by  a  severe  congestion  to-day.  This  morning 
I  tried  to  take  my  bath  after  drinking  the  water  before 
breakfast  so  as  to  avoid  an  extra  trip  to  the  springs.  It 
has  been  too  hot  for  me  to  think  of  going  to  Frankfort,  or 
for  Clifford  either. 

We  are  going  this  afternoon  to  see  a  Roman  camp  at  Saal- 
berg,  which  they  say  is  one  of  the  finest  and  best  preserved 
camps  in  Europe.  Yesterday  there  was  a  battle  of  flowers, 
but  it  was  not  a  success.  If  it  had  not  been  for  my  cure  here, 
I  would  have  gone  away  from  here  to  some  cool  place.  Yes- 
terday was  the  hottest  day  ever  known  in  Frankfort,  but  we 

hope  it  will  be  better  to-morrow.     I  think  that  if  it  is  pleasant 

224 


GERMANY 

at  San  Moritz  we  had  better  stay  there  three  or  four  days  to 
recover  from  this  heat.  We  drive  in  from  Landeek  and  drive 
out  to  Chiavenna,  and  we  will  telegraph  wheii  we  arrive  at 
San  Moritz,  so  you  can  find  us  for  a  day  or  tw,o.  From  there 
I  have  no  particular  plans,  except  that  it  would  be  very  con- 
venient to  go  to  the  Italian  Lakes,  unless  it  should  be  fright- 
fully hot.  We  want  to  get  over  the  San  Gothard  pass  and  will 
travel  about  through  Switzerland,  and  try  to  get  back  to  Paris 
by  the  tenth  of  September.  If  the  cholera  is  raging  there,  we 
shall  only  pass  through  and  get  to  London. 

We  cut  ourselves  off  from  mail  now  until  we  arrive  at  San 
Moritz.  I  dread  to-morrow's  journey  on  account  of  heat  and 
motion,  and  grudge  the  money  they  make  us  pay  for  the  bag- 
gage that  costs  us  nothing  in  France.  They  make  us  pay  eight 
marks  a  day's  trip. 

Love  to  all, 

Mary  D. 

5  P.  M.  Nuremberg, 
August  22nd,  1892. 
Dear  F: 

We  are  oif  in  an  hour  by  fast  train  to  Munich,  there  to 
spend  the  night  and  go  in  the  morning  to  Innsbruck.  It  is  too 
hot  to  stay  in  Munich,  and  as  the  heat  has  upset  both  Cliflford 
and  myself,  we  think  it  wiser  to  avoid  cities  and  get  to  the 
mountains  as  soon  as  possible  and  into  high  countries.  I  can- 
not bear  the  heat  any  longer.  We  have  had  now  ten  days  of 
it,  and  I  am  in  a  perspiration  all  the  time. 

By  taking  this  evening  train,  we  get  there  at  10.30  and 
avoid  the  sun.  Our  faces  are  now  turned  toward  home.  The 
smells  in  Bayreuth  were  frightful  and  I  was  afraid  to  stay  there. 
Germany  is  less  civilized  than  France  in  that  respect.  Nurem- 
berg is  so  interesting.  If  it  were  not  so  hot,  I  should  like  to 
stay  longer.  Have  to  change  to  Austrian  money  at  Innsbruck 
and  to  French  money  next  day.    Love  to  all. 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 
15  225 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Innsbruck,  Aug.  25th,  1892. 
Dear  Aunt  Mary: 

Although  it  is  only  six  it  is  almost  dark,  as  the  high  moun- 
tains shut  off  the  light  very  earh'.  I  don't  know  whether  you 
were  here  or  not,  but  father  and  mother  and  I  passed  through 
here  once  in  cold  weather  in  1870  on  our  way  from  Verona  to 
Munich.  Now  the  heat  is  so  great  that  the  snow  is  all  melted 
from  the  mountains,  and  a  very  hot,  strong  wind  has  pre- 


ST.  MORITZ 


vented  our  driving  about  any  to-day.  To-morrow  we  go  by 
rail  to  Coire,  and  the  next  day  by  diligence  or  carriage  to  St. 
Moritz  in  the  Engadine,  where  w^e  hope  to  be  cool,  as  It  is 
higher  than  Mt.  Washington.  I  may  stay  a  week,  as  I  need  a 
rest  after  my  cure  and  have  found  the  trip  here  from  Hom- 
bourg  very  trying.  We  left  Frankfort  at  noon  last  Saturday 
and  arrived  at  Bayreuth  at  midnight  in  intense  heat;  had  rooms 
In  a  private  house  and  took  our  meals  anywhere.  They  only 
had  one  sheet  on  each  bed  and  I  had  a  great  time  getting  an- 
other and  slept  under  one  sheet.    Clifford  didn't  know  what  to 

226 


GERMANY 

make  of  it.  We  got  up  late  and  after  our  coifee,  went  into  the 
Park  to  keep  cool,  visited  Wagner's  grave,  and  Frau  Wagner's 
house  then  took  lunch,  which  cost  us  in  that  little  primitive 
place,  ^2.00.  The  Opera  Parsifal  began  at  4  p.  m.  and  we 
started  a  little  after  3,  found  we  had  good  seats.  I  w^as  much 
disappointed  in  the  inward  and  outward  appearance  of  the 
theatre,  but  the  performance  was  wonderful. 

Vandyke  was  the  Parsifal  and  looked  just  like  the  pictures 
of  Christ,  The  Duchess  of  Edinborough  was  there  with  the 
Princess  of  Saxe  Meiningen  in  the  Royal  box.     At  six  there 


Mier,  wo  ruein  Wahneii  Kricilcn  fan-J, 
..Walinfried"  sei   dieser  Ort  ziibcnannt. 
Rich.  Wagner. 


THE  HOUSE  OF  RICHARD  WAG.XER,  BAYREUTH 

was  a  half-hour  interval  and  we  went  out  and  got  an  ice  and 
at  eight  we  had  time  to  get  a  supper.  We  sat  in  the  dark  the 
entire  time  and  were  not  allowed  to  speak  or  move.  It  w^ould 
take  too  long  to  tell  you  all  about  it  now. 

We  went  back  to  Nuremberg  the  next  morning,  our  livers 
upset  by  the  intense  heat  and  the  frightful  smells  of  Bayreuth. 
Nuremberg  is  delightful.  I  took  a  carriage  and  we  went  every- 
where. I  got  myself  a  little  solid  silver  after-dinner  coffee  pot 
there.  They  had  such  beautiful  silver  and  peasant  costumes. 
I  was  crazy  to  bring  a  headdress  and  bodices,  also  at  Bayreuth 

they  had  most  beautiful  carved  screen  frames,  beautiful  shapes 

227 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

ungilded  very  cheap,  but  I  thought  I  could  get  them  anywhere, 
and  have  not  seen  one  since.  I  think  I  shall  get  in  London 
one  of  those  travelling  capes  that  are  so  useful. 

With  love  to  all, 

M.  D.  R. 

Innsbruck,  Aug.  25th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  arrived  here  yesterday  afternoon  at  three  p.  m.,  worn 
out  with  the  heat  and  dust,  and  came  to  the  Hotel  Tyrol,  near 
the  station.     The  place  is    perfectly  beautiful,  grand  moun- 


iiiJiiil^iNi 


.:^. 


KulEL  TYROL,  IXXSBRUCK 


tains  rising  all  around  it,  but  a  sirocco  is  prevailing,  which 
blows  the  dust  in  clouds  on  everything  and  makes  riding  or 
walking  unendurable.  We  rested  until  table  d'hote  dinner  and 
walked  out  in  the  town  afterwards,  but  it  was  quite  deserted 
on  account  of  the  wind. 

I  thought,  of  course,  it  would  rain,  but  this  morning  the 
sun  was  shining  brightly  and  the  wind  blowing  as  hard  as  ever. 
We  found  it  takes  two  whole  days  to  go  from  here  to  the 


228 


GERMANY 

Engadine,  so  decided  to  leave  to-morrow  9.45  for  Coire,  reach- 
ing there  at  4.30  and  next  morning  take  either  diHgence  or 
carriage  to  St.  Moritz,  taking  the  whole  day. 

This  morning  we  walked  through  the  whole  town  and  en- 
joyed the  picturesque  houses  and  the  cathedral  with  the  tomb 
of  Maximilian  the  Great  and  the  high  sized  statues  in  bronze 
of  his  relatives  and  ancestors.  This  afternoon  we  had  intended 
to  drive  to  Castle  Ambras  but  had  to  give  it  up  on  account 
of  the  wind. 

Our  rooms  are  at  the  back  of  the  house  overlooking  the 
garden,  and  the  mountains  are  so  near,  they  look  as  though 
they  would  fall  over  us.  The  snow  is  all  melted  off  the  sum- 
mits with  the  intense  heat.  At  Vienna  they  had  it  no  degrees 
and  the  drought  makes  it  worse.  I  need  a  few  days'  rest  in  a 
cool,  quiet  place  after  my  cure,  and  have  had  too  much  trav- 
elling in  the  last  few  days. 

Bayreuth  was  a  most  awkward  place  to  get  at.  If  it  had 
not  been  for  Bayreuth,  I  should  have  gone  straight  down  to 
the  Black  Forest  and  into  Switzerland  that  way.  If  it  stays 
warm,  I  shall  also  have  to  give  up  the  Italian  Lakes.  I  will 
let  you  know  when  we  decide  on  our  next  movements.  I 
want  to  be  back  in  Paris  by  the  eleventh,  but  if  not  considered 
advisable  to  stay,  shall  go  on  to  London.  I  am  so  sorry  I 
did  not  get  a  carved  wood  screen  at  Bayreuth;  they  were  so 
pretty  and  reasonable.  I  haven't  seen  one  since  we  left  there. 
It  gets  dark  here  very  early  on  account  of  the  high  mountains. 

With  love,  and  hoping  to  get  letters  at  St.  Moritz, 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 

Germany  is  much  more  expensive  than  France,  and  it  was 
very  dear  at  Hombourg.  The  sky  looks  very  threatening,  and 
I  have  no  doubt  it  will  rain  just  in  time  for  our  day's  drive 
on  Saturday  which  would  be  most  unpleasant. 

With  much  love, 

M.  D.  R. 


SWITZERLAND 

St.  Moritz,  Aug.  29th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  arrived  here  very  late  Saturday  afternoon.  The  weather 
changed  the  night  before  we  left  Innsbruck  coming  on  with 
a  hard  rain  about  eight  o'clock  and  lasting  all  night.  It  cleared 
in  the  morning  and  we  had  a  delightful  railroad  ride  to  Coire, 
spent  the  night  at  the  hotel  Steinbock  and  watched  the  dili- 
gences arrive  from  every  direction. 

As  we  could  not  get  the  best  seats  in  the  Diligence  for  St. 
Moritz,  we  engaged  a  carriage  and  then  visited  the  town, 
which  was  very  picturesque.  The  next  morning  we  took  break- 
fast at  half  past  five  and  were  on  our  way  at  six.  The  weather 
was  magnificent,  perfectly  clear  and  cool,  and  we  stopped  at 
Sairgno  at  noon  for  lunch,  a  quaint  Italian  place.  The  people  all 
looked  Italian  and  spoke  it,  and  yet  it  is  German  Switzerland. 

It  got  very  cold  by  the  time  we  got  to  the  top  of  the  Julier 
Pass,  and  we  were  almost  frozen  by  the  time  we  arrived  at 
St.  Moritz  after  nine.  People  generally  take  two  days  to  do 
this  trip,  but  we  hadn't  time.  Yesterday  it  was  20°,  wintry 
cold  and  a  fearful  gale  raging,  so  that  we  found  it  impossible 
to  stay  out  of  doors  and  as  the  hotel  was  not  heated  in  any  way 
we  found  it  impossible  to  get  warm.  So  in  a  few  days  we  have 
passed  from  intense  heat  to  intense  cold,  and  I  don't  know 
which  is  the  more  disagreeable! 

This  morning  we  found  it  warmer  and  no  wind  so  we  walked 
to  Pontresina,  a  perfectly  beautiful  walk  by  lakes  and 
through  pine  forests,  with  glimpses  of  glaciers,  and  at  Pon- 
tresina, a  quaint  Italian  town  wnth  little  shops  and  grated 

windows,  had  our  lunch  at  the  Kroner  Hotel,  full  of  English 

230 


SWITZERLAND 

people  and  much  more  homelike  and  attractive  than  here. 
There  are  two  great  glaciers  in  view  from  Pontresina,  the 
Roseg,  and  the  Morteratsch,  and  we  propose  to  make  an  ex- 
cursion there  very  soon. 

This  hotel  is  filled  with  French  and  Germans  and  is  very  large 
and  bare.     I  think  Pontresina  more  sheltered  and  picturesque. 


TO  CHUR,  JULIER  PASS 

St.  Moritz  is  too  cold  and  windy.     The  wind  is  blowing  again 
furiously.    We  are  trying  to  make  up  our  minds  what  to  do. 

Cliff  and  I  are  both  too  cold  to  want  to  stay  long  and  think 
of  leaving  Friday  for  Chiavenna  and  Milan  and  spend  Satur- 
day there  and  take  the  express  over  the  St.  Gothard  to  Lu- 
cerne, arriving  there  Saturday  before  night. 

We  all  want  to  get  to  Zermatt,  but  it  is  so  hard  to  get  to. 
I  would  have  to  take  the  Simplon  Pass  from  Milan  to  Brieg. 
Will  let  you  know  when  I  decide. 

Hoping  to  hear  soon, 

Afffy.,  M.  D.  R. 
231 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

St.  Moritz,  Thursday,  Sept.  ist,  1892. 

The  carriage  will  cost  only  about  lYz  francs  more  apiece 
and  is  a  little  more  independent.  There  is  now  some  question 
of  quarantine  between  here  and  the  Italian  Lakes,  but  I  am 
not  afraid  of  it. 

Yesterday  we  had  a  delightful  drive  up  the  Fex  Glacier, 
and  got  home  just  in  time  to  escape  a  heavy  rain.  This  morn- 
ing the  whole  party  was  to  go  on  donkeys  over  the  Furka 
Pass,  but  the  men  said  the  weather  was  too  threatening  for 
that  trip,  and  as  I  did  not  feel  very  well,  I  was  rather  glad  to 
get  rid  of  the  excursion;  also  I  wanted  to  write  three  or  four 
letters,  and  have  a  lot  of  mending  to  do.  The  whole  day  had 
not  been  long  enough,  and  I  am  frozen  sitting  in  my  room. 
It  looks  very  gloomy  just  at  present  and  I  am  quite  sure  it 
will  rain  to-morrow. 

We  will  get  to  Chiavenna  in  time  for  the  3.45  train  to  the 
Lakes  and  arrive  late  at  Adilan,  about  10  p.  m.  On  Thursday 
I  expect  to  take  the  fast  train  to  Lucerne  over  the  St.  Gothard, 
and  go  from  there  to  Geneva  and  meet  the  party  at  Zermatt. 
I  shall  take  the  night  train  from  Geneva  Sunday  night,  Sept. 
nth.  Switzerland  is  very  dear  indeed.  Since  we  left  Inns- 
bruck the  money  fiies;68  francs  for  our  trip  from  Coire  to 
St.  Moritz,  40  to  Chiavenna  and  hotels  dear. 

The  views  are  magnificent  here,  but  the  hotel  is  so  cold  I 
should  never  want  to  stay  here  again.  Of  course.  Cliff  and  I 
will  not  see  all  the  sights  here,  but  will  get  an  idea  of  what  to 
do  another  time.  I  have  no  doubt  the  weather  is  comfortable 
now  in  other  parts  of  Switzerland;  it  is  not  likely  to  be  hot  from 
now  on.  With  much  love, 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 


ITALY 

Milan,  Sept.  3rd,  1892. 
Dear  Papa: 

We  got  here  late  last  night  after  travelling  all  day.  I  did 
not  have  a  chance  to  drop  you  a  postal.  Part  of  the  way  was 
on  a  steamboat  on  Lake  Como.  The  Lake  was  not  blue, 
however,  like  in  the  pictures.  Milan  Cathedral  is  most  in- 
teresting. I  never  saw  so  much  detail  massed  together  at 
once. 

Castelfranco  is  away  in  the  country  somewheres  and  so, 
of  course,  we  will  not  see  him.  The  weather  here  is  a  great 
change  from  that  of  Switzerland.  We  go  to  Lucerne  to-mor- 
row and  from  there  to  Lausanne.  From  Lausanne  we  go  co 
Zermatt,  and  then  back  the  same  way  to  Geneva  where  we 
take  the  night  train  to  Paris.  There  is  no  fear  of  cholera  here 
and  there  is  no  quarantine  at  the  "borders." 

Mother  finds  everything  greatly  changed,  but  still  was 
able  to  find  the  house  where  she  used  to  live  in  1869.  The 
landlady  was  dead  or  removed,  for  they  did  not  know  of  any 
such  name.  The  streets  here  are  well  paved  with  cobbles, 
but  these  cobbles  differ  a  little  from  ours. 


With  love  to  all, 


Afiiy.,  C. 


233 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Milan,  Sept.  3rd,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  have  had  lunch  and  arc  going  out  again  at  3  p.  m. 
We  left  St.  Moritz  yesterday  morning  in  a  little  carriage  and 
had  the  most  perfect  drive  you  can  imagine.  We  nearly  froze 
on  the  Swiss  side  and  found  it  very  hot  as  soon  as  we  had  crossed 
the  border.    The  descent  is  something  wonderful. 

We  took  the  train  at  Chiavenna,  after  taking  an  expensive 
but  poor  dinner,  and  at  Colico  took  the  boat.  In  order  to  get 
the  fast  train  to  Milan  w^e  had  to  get  off  the  boat  at  Bellano 
and  so  missed  Cadenabbia  and  Como,  but  it  was  a  lovely  ride 
xate  in  the  afternoon  and  the  sunset  was  superb.  There  can 
be  nothing  more  beautiful  in  the  world  than  the  Italian 
Lakes. 

We  had  a  comfortable  ride  from  Bellano  here  by  bright 
moonlight  and  arrived  at  ten;  came  to  the  Hotel  Metropole 
because  it  is  in  the  Place  de  Duomo  and  opposite  the  Galleria. 
Prof.  Castelfranco  has  not  turned  up,  so  I  suppose  he  did  not 
get  my  note.  CliflF  and  I  went  into  the  Cathedral  and  he  went 
all  over  the  top.  It  is  the  most  impressive  interior  we  have 
seen  yet. 

Cliff  is  delighted  with  Milan  because  it  is  gay  and  full  of 
shops.  We  then  walked  up  to  the  Via  Pasquirolo  and  went  into 
the  house  where  I  used  to  live  in  1869,  but  the  porter  said  there 
was  no  family  by  the  name  of  Meuni  there  so  I  didn't  go  up. 
Milan  is,  of  course,  much  changed  and  improved,  with  mag- 
nificent new  buildings  and  is  a  beautiful  city. 

We  take  the  express  over  the  San  Gothard  to-morrow  and 
will  be  in  Lucerne  to-morrow  evening.  I  met  a  charming 
French  lady  on  the  boat,  who  knew  the  Rochambeaus.  Her 
conversation  was  delightful.  We  are  now  going  to  the  Santa 
Maria  delle  Grazie  to  see  the  Last  Supper  and  to  drive  around 
and  show  Cliff  the  town. 

With  much  love, 

Yours  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 


SWITZERLAND 

Grand  Hotel  National, 

Lucerne,  Sept.  4th,  1892. 
Dear  Father: 

We  arrived  here  to-night  at  six  o'clock,  after  travelling 
all  day.  We  passed  over  the  St.  Gothard,  but  as  it  rained  all 
the  time,  we  did  not  see  much  of  the  scenery.  The  hotel  is 
very  big  here  but  not  very  comfortable.  We  had  quite  a  good 
dinner.  I  hope  we  will  not  be  quarantined  when  we  come  back 
to  America. 

If  it  stops  raining  and  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  I  will  go 
up  Mt.  Rigi  on  the  railroad  to-morrow. 

Love  to  all,  C. 

Grand  Hotel  National, 

Lucerne,  Sept.  5th,  1892. 
Dear  Father: 

It  is  raining  hard  here  so  I  will  not  be  able  to  see  anything 
of  Lucerne  or  its  neighborhood.  We  leave  here  to-morrow 
at  10.20  for  Lausanne.  We  will  not  leave  Switzerland  until 
the  1 2th  so  that  we  expect  to  receive  your  letter  with  full  in- 
structions and  particulars. 

This  house  is  full  of  people  and  I  had  to  be  put  in  a  room 
in  the  annex,  which  is  rather  disagreeable.  I  was  very  much 
disappointed  yesterday  that  our  trip  over  the  Pass  was  spoiled 
by  the  rain.  Affiy.,  C. 


235 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Hotel  Seller 

Zermatt 
September  8th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

Here  we  are  at  Zermatt  and  a  bitter  disappointment  awaits 
us  in  the  weather.  It  is  pouring  and  apparently  no  sign  of 
its  letting  up.  I  wrote  you  at  Milan  and  since  then  have  not 
been  able  to,  from  fatigue,  we  have  travelled  so  fast. 

Mr.  Castelfranco  was  at  the  seashore  so  we  didn't  see  him 
at  all;  and  we  left  Milan  Sunday  morning,  after  a  shower, 
which  laid  the  dust,  and  had  a  delightful  ride  over  the  St. 
Gothard  Pass  by  Lugano  and  Como.  It  began  to  rain  at 
Goschenen,  and  turned  very  cold.  We  found  no  fires  in  the 
hotel,  nor  in  fact  anywhere  have  they  any  provision  against 
the  cold.  It  poured  all  day  Monday  in  Lucerne.  We  walked 
through  the  town  and  across  the  two  old  bridges  and  to  Bos- 
sards  antique  store.  The  house  was  occupied  by  the  Papal 
Nuncio  in  the  last  century  and  was  very  curious.  They  have 
it  now  filled  with  armor,  old  furniture,  silver,  brocades,  etc. 
The  next  morning  we  started  for  Lausanne  and  had 
a  lovely  ride,  although  it  was  not  perfectly  clear.  We  spent 
the  night  at  the  Beau  Rivage  at  Ouchy  down  on  the  lake, 
but  were  put  off  in  cold  rooms  in  the  dependance.  It  is  the 
most  romantic  spot  possible  and  as  we  went  to  our  rooms  after 
dinner  late,  it  was  bright  moonlight.  There  was  no  one  there 
we  knew. 

Wednesday  morning  we  took  the  boat  as  far  as  Villeneuve, 
so  Clifford  saw  Vevey,  Montreux  and  Chillon,  and  we  ex- 
pected to  get  through  to  Zermatt  the  same  evening,  but  when 
we  got  to  Villeneuve,  they  informed  us  the  last  train  was 
taken  off  from  Visp  to  Zermatt  and  we  would  have  to  spend 
the  night  at  Visp.  We  arrived  there  at  seven  in  a  rain,  but 
found  a  comfortable  hotel,  but  no  fires.  This  morning  the 
sun  was  shining  and  as  I  was  the  first  one  down,  I  went  out 
into  a  beautiful  garden  at  the  back  of  the  house  and  saw  the 

peasants  going  to  church,  so  I  followed  them  up  the  hill  to  a 

236 


SWITZERLAND 

very  ancient  church,  and  it  was  a  fete  day;  the  church  was 
crowded  with  people,  the  peasants  with  their  gold  lace  head- 
dresses, etc.,  and  the  church  itself  had  a  gallery  hanging  over 
the  ravine,  and  was  most  picturesque. 

At  ten  we  took  the  train  up  here  and  it  soon  began  to  rain. 
It  took  us  three  hours  to  come,  and  we  had  to  get  out  and  walk 
and  change  into  another  train  on  account  of  a  landslide  which 
occurred  twoor  three  weeks  ago  and  destroyed  some  of  the  track. 

We  went  for  our  mail  as  soon  as  we  had  lunch  and  found 
your  two  letters  of  the  21st  and  25th,  and  one  from  Aunt 
Mary,  one  from  Clara  saying  they  had  not  gone  to  Paris.  At 
Lausanne,  I  sent  my  trunk  to  Geneva  to  avoid  bringing  it  up 
here,  and  secured  my  sleeping  car  tickets  for  the  Sunday  night 
train  to  Paris. 

There  seem  to  be  plenty  of  Americans  in  Paris,  and  I  think 
by  not  drinking  any  of  the  Seine  water,  we  will  not  run  any 
risk.  The  travelling  this  last  week  has  been  expensive.  This 
railroad  from  Visp  cost  33  francs  for  us  two  and  the  same  to 
get  back  again,  and  I  had  to  pay  50  francs  for  sleeping  berths 
from  Geneva  to  Paris,  and  that  don't  include  the  fares. 

We  shall  go  from  here  to  Martigny  and  by  the  south  shore 
to  Geneva,  as  it  is  a  shorter  way.  I  cannot  get  to  our  ship  for 
the  28th  unless  I  start  now.  I  have  allowed  myself  the  least 
time  possible  and  want  to  spend  five  or  six  days  in  London. 

There  is  fresh  snow  on  the  mountains  all  around  almost 
down  to  the  village,  and  it  looks  dreary  enough  with  the  clouds 
hanging  so  low.  Even  if  it  is  clear  to-morrow,  I  doubt  if  I 
would  be  able  to  go  on  mules,  but  I  hope  to  see  something 
before  we  leave  Saturday  morning.  These  sudden  changes 
of  climate  are  trying  to  everyone.  I  hope  sometime  we  can 
come  here  together  before  we  get  too  old. 

I  am  doing  what  I  think  the  very  best  in  keeping  on  with 
my  original  plan,  and  do  not  think  anything  would  be  gained 
by  delay.  The  big  steamers  from  Liverpool  will  not  take  any 
steerage  passengers.  With  much  love. 

Yours  affly.,  M.  D.  R. 
237 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Grand  Hotel  National,  Geneva, 

September  ii,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  ought  to  be  out  of  doors  looking  at  the  gorgeous  view  of 
the  mountains,  but  I  can't  do  that  and  write  too.  The  atmos- 
phere is  perfectly  clear,  and  the  lake  blue  as  indigo,  while 
ever}^  mountain  stands  out  with  perfect  clearness.  The  whole 
snow  range  of  Mt.  Blanc  is  visible,  as  it  seldom  is,  and  the 
scene  is  too  beautiful  for  my  powers  of  description. 

I  wrote  you  at  Zermatt  the  afternoon  of  our  arrival  when 
I  felt  too  sick  to  go  down  to  dinner,  therefore,  you  will  be  sur- 
prised to  hear  that  after  a  night's  rest,  and  the  day  turned  out 
to  be  fine,  I  made  up  my  mind  to  go  up  to  the  RiflPelberg. 
Cliff  walked  and  the  rest  went  on  horseback,  but  we  didn't 
have  a  clear  view  of  the  Matterhorn,  and  when  we  had  passed 
the  second  hotel,  it  began  to  snow,  and  we  could  not  go  all 
the  way  to  the  Gorner  Grat,  as  the  snow  was  too  deep  the  guide 
said.  I  rode  most  of  the  way  down,  although  the  guides  wanted 
me  to  walk.  I  was  afraid  of  getting  my  feet  wet  and  was 
not  prepared  for  mountain  climbing. 

Yesterday  morning  I  was  less  lame  than  I  expected,  and 
we  started  off  from  Zermatt  at  ten,  having  a  perfectly  clear 
view  of  the  Matterhorn.  Were  we  not  fortunate,  as  others 
had  been  there  a  week  and  gone  away  without  seeing  it.^ 

We  had  a  long,  tiresome  ride  of  twelve  hours  here,  and 
arriving  at  Geneva,  were  informed  there  were  no  rooms  for 
us  at  the  Beau  Rivage,  so  came  to  the  National,  where  we 
have  a  fine  front  room  between  us,  all  we  could  get.  This 
hotel  is  magnificent,  right  on  the  lakes,  and  to-day  the  air  is 
just  right.  I  think  I  am  right  to  push  on,  as  I  see  the  City  of 
New  York  was  released  from  quarantine  and  will  probably 
sail  on  the  28th.  How  I  wish  you  could  see  this  all,  but  I  am 
sure  we  will  be  over  here  two  years  from  now  if  alive. 

With  much  love,  and  looking  forward  to  meeting  again, 

Yours  aflay.,  M.  D.  R. 

238 


FRANCE 

Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  September  15th,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  was  so  tired  I  couldn't  write  as  I  ought  to  have  done  yes- 
terday, and  this  is  the  first  time  to-day.  It  is  just  after  table 
d'hote  and  we  are  going  with  the  Cochranes  to  the  Hippo- 
drome. We  do  not  feel  any  fear  of  sickness  here.  The  place 
is  full  of  Americans  and  you  would  never  judge  from  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  city  that  there  was  any  unusual  sickness  here, 
and  I  don't  think  there  is. 

The  Inman  people  here  say  the  City  of  New  York  will  sail 
on  the  28th.  I  feel  that  I  have  done  the  right  thing  in  stick- 
ing to  my  original  dates.  I  would  have  preferred  getting  to 
England  rather  than  staying  in  Geneva.  Everything  is  fright- 
fully expensive  in  the  way  of  clothes  for  women,  but  I  think 
I  am  going  to  like  mine.  We  expect  to  leave  here  Wednesday 
in  the  club  train  at  3  p.  m.  It  is  more  expensive,  but  under 
the  circumstances,  there  is  less  chance  of  detention  than  going 
second  class.  There  was  nothing  but  the  ordinary  examina- 
tion of  baggage  between  Switzerland  and  France  in  spite  of 
all  the  talk  in  the  newspapers. 

I  must  be  off,  so  good-bye.  How  I  wish  you  were  here  to 
go  with  us.     With  much  love, 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 


239 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Normandy  Hotel, 

Paris,  Sept.  17,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

The  only  thing  I  am  afraid  of  is  the  fumigation  of  cloth- 
ing, but  I  scarcely  think  the  passengers  of  a  ship  like  the  City 
of  New  York,  coming  from  Liverpool  without  steerage  pas- 


VERSAILLES 


sengers,  will  be  subjected  to  it.  It  is  cold  and  rainy  here  to- 
day, but  has  been  lovely  since  Monday. 

We  went  to  the  Hippodrome  night  before  last  with  the 
Cochranes;  enjoyed  it  very  much.  Last  night  we  went  to  the 
Theatre  Francais  near  by  and  heard  Hernani.  Of  course,  the 
great  actors  are  not  back  yet,  but  it  was  very  good.  Mr. 
Durand  appeared  day  before  yesterday  with  old  Mr.  Mourge 
and  the  latter  insisted  upon  our  going  early  to-morrow  morn- 
ing for  a  whole  day's  excursion  to  Versailles  and  St.  Germain, 
and  lunch  at  the  Durand's. 

Cliff  and  I  went  to  the  Musee  Cluny  to-day  and  enjoyed 

240 


FRANCE 

it  highly.     It  breaks  my  heart  not  to  get  lots  of  things  I  see 
here,  which  it  would  pay  to  bring,  but  I  can't  do  it. 

I  have  written  to  the  Metropole  we  will  be  there  Wednes- 
day night.  There  is  much  more  illness  in  London,  Typhoid 
and  Scarlet  Fever,  than  in  Paris.  Clifford  has  bought  his 
watch  and  chain  here  at  Henry  Capt's,  and  has  done  a  good 
deal  of  sightseeing.  How  I  wish  you  were  coming  over,  and 
we  were  going  to  stay  a  year. 

Paris,  Sept.  19th,  1892. 
Dear  Father: 

We  went  out  by  invitation  to  Mr.  Durand's  at  Versailles. 
He  and  M.  Mourge  met  us  at  the  station  in  a  carriage  and 
took  us  to  the  palace.  We  went  over  the  whole  of  it  and  I  was 
struck  by  its  immensity.  The  gardens  were  very  handsome. 
The  whole  building  is  filled  with  famous  war  pictures  and 
copies  of  other  famous  ones. 

It  took  us  about  two  hours  to  walk  through,  without  look- 
ing carefully  at  the  pictures.  We  then  took  another  carriage 
and  went  to  his  house,  where  we  were  met  by  Mrs.  Durand  and 
a  friend  of  hers.  The  house  is  beautifully  furnished  with  old 
Breton  furniture  and  has  a  pleasant  garden.  We  had  a  pleas- 
ant lunch  and  then  we  all  got  in  a  big  carriage  and  drove  to 
St.  Germain.  There  were  six  of  us  and  when  we  got  there  we 
found  the  palace  closed,  so  we  walked  up  and  down  the  plateau 
enjoying  the  fine  view.  There  was  just  enough  mist  to  give  the 
sunset  some  beautiful  eifects.  As  soon  as  darkness  closed  in  we 
went  into  the  Pavilion  Henry  IV,  to  a  champagne  dinner  which 
had  been  ordered  beforehand.  We  had  a  small  dining  room  to 
ourselves,  and  the  end  facing  Paris  was  entirely  open  so  as  to  give 
an  undisturbed  view.  One  by  one  the  lights  spread  over  the  coun- 
try and  last  of  all  the  searchlights  on  the  EiffelTower  appeared. 

We  then  sat  down  to  dinner.  M.  Mourge  was  indefati- 
gable and  kept  on  the  go  all  day  although  85  years  old.  At 
8.30  we  left  them  and  took  the  9  o'clock  train  to  Paris,  while 
they  had  to  drive  all  the  way  to  Versailles. 

Affly.,  J.  Cliiford  Rosengarten. 
16 


,/,.::::i.^^j^^. 


^\:. 


EN  ROUTE 


The  Hotel  Metropole, 
London,  Thursday, 
Sept.  22nd,  1892. 
Dear  Frank: 

It  was  impossible  for  me  to  write  for  the  last  three  days. 
I  was  on  the  dead  run.  One  day  I  went  to  the  Luxembourg  and 
Louvre,  and  stood  three  hours  at  the  dressmaker's,  all  in  one 
day. 

I  must  write  you  about  our  Sunday  in  Versailles.  We  took 
the  9.20  train  and  found  Mr.  Durand  and  old  Mr.  Mourge 
waiting  for  us  at  the  station.  They  took  us  in  a  carriage  to 
the  Palace,  and  old  Mr.  M.  conducted  us  like  a  guide  through 
the  whole  place.  We  spent  two  hours  walking  and  then  drove 
to  the  Durand's  to  lunch. 

There  we  had  a  delicious  lunch  with  wines;  and  a  very 
pretty  young  lady  (Franco-American)  whose  name  I  didn't 
catch,  and  we  all  went  in  a  big  carriage  to  the  Trianons  and  the 
Court  carriages.  After  that  we  drove  an  hour  and  a  half  to 
St.  Germain  and  saw  the  celebrated  terrace  and  had  dinner 
at  the  Pavilion  Henri  IV. 

That   was  Mr.  Mourge's   dinner  and  it  was   magnificent; 

a  private  room,  a  centre  piece  of  flowers,  a  fine  menu  ordered 

expressly,  and  four  or  five  kinds  of  wine  and  champagne.    The 

menus  were  given  to  us.    They  drank  your  health  and  wished 

you  were  there. 

242 


EN  ROUTE 

You  must  write  immediately  on  receipt  of  this  and  thank 
them  for  their  attention.  Mr.  Durand  said  he  hoped  you 
would  write  to  Mr.  Mourge,  he  would  be  so  pleased.  We 
were  on  our  feet  nearly  all  day  and  very  tired  with  the  driv- 
ing, but  the  old  man  was  perfectly  fresh  at  the  end.  He  is 
certainly  wonderful,  85  years  old!  I  felt  almost  ashamed  to 
accept  their  hospitality,  when  we  had  never  asked  them  to  a 
meal,  but  Mr.  Mourge  just  made  out  the  program  and  we 
had  to  follow  it.  Mrs.  Durand  is  quite  gay  and  lively  and  wore 
a  youthful  hat  and  magnificent  diamond  earrings. 

At  the  opera  we  had  a  delightful  evening,  saw  Salammbo 
finely  sung  by  Rose  Caron,  and  magnificently  mounted,  and 
between  the  acts  walked  through  the  foyer  and  about  the 
house.  The  Paris  Opera  House  is  the  most  superbly  decorated 
place  you  can  imagine. 

It  cost  us  to  come  from  Paris  here  on  the  club  train,  ^56, 
including  our  lunch  and  fees  at  hotel,  omnibus,  etc.  The  club 
train  is  the  first  fast  one  I  have  seen;  Pullman  cars,  and  we 
had  a  fine  dinner,  and  a  smooth  trip  across  the  channel  from 
7.30  to  nearly  9.  I  had  neglected  to  leave  out  my  wraps  and 
an  English  lady  lent  me  one  so  I  didn't  have  to  go  below.  She 
turned  out  to  be  an  aunt  of  the  cricketer,  Mr.  Wright,  who 
came  over  with  Lord  Hawke's  team  last  year. 

There  was  no  difficulty  about  baggage;  they  examined  it 
on  the  train,  and  only  opened  one  trunk,  so  you  see  you  can't 
believe  what  the  newspapers  say.  We  found  rooms  ready  for 
us  here  and  it  was  hard  work  to  get  up  this  morning. 

Love  to  all, 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 

Suggestions  for  reading  matter. 
For  Mrs.  Rosengarten: 

The  Upton  Letters. 

From  My  College  Window — A.  Benton. 
The  Golden  Days  of  the  Renaissance  in  Rome — Lanciani. 

243 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Roman  Days — Victor  Rydberg. 

J.  Addington  Symond's  Autobiography. 

The  Florence  of  Landor. 

The  World  Beautiful  in  Books. 

The  World  Beautiful. 

These  are  some  of  the  books  which  we  have  enjoyed  this  win- 
ter. Roman  Days  is  not  in  every  library.  I  think  the  tran- 
lation  is  by  Lindehn.    You  will  delight  in  it  I  know. 

Sallie  P.  Brooks. 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF   i897 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  i897 

After  an  interval  of  five  years  the  inexorable  desire  for 
travel  culminated  in  the  fulfillment  of  long  studied  plans.  In 
the  meantime  tours  had  been  made  in  California,  Canada  and 
distant  parts  of  the  United  States. 

The  leading  plans  were  based  on  a  nearer  study  of  pic- 
turesque England,  especially  the  Southern  Counties  Devonshire 
and  Cornwall  and  some  of  the  most  interesting  Cathedrals. 

After  these  had  been  accomplished  and  visits  made  to  Paris, 
thence  to  Brussels,  Cologne  and  Hombourg  and  the  "Kur," 
there  came  the  memorable  trip  through  the  Black  Forest  and 
on  to  Sigmaringen. 

There  the  reception  by  Count  and  Countess  Adelmann, 
the  dinner  given  to  their  "American  guests"  by  the  Prince 
of  Hohenzollern  (Cousin  of  the  Emperor  and  brother  of  the 
King  of  Rumania),  and  visits  to  most  interesting  historic 
castles,  were  followed  by  a  journey  to  Munich  and  thence  to 
Hohenstadt,  the  castle  of  Count  Adelmann. 

After  the  return  to  Paris,  short  tours  to  Fontainebleau, 
Chantilly,  Compiegne,  Laon,  Rouen  and  places  memorable 
by  their  participation  in  the  terrible  War  of  1914-1916,  were 
made. 

Rouen  and  Havre  were  visited  in  company  with  Mrs. 
Thackara,  daughter  of  General  Wm.  T.  Sherman,  and  wife  of 
the  then  Consul  General  of  the  United  States  at  Havre. 

The  journey  homeward  was  completed  in  September,  1897, 
aboard  the  French  Steamship  "Touraine."  F.  H.  R. 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  i897 

S.  S.  ST.  PAUL 


Fellow  Passengers June 

Bellamy  Storer June 

Mme.  Vere  de  Sapio. . .  .June 
Meeting  ot  Passengers.  .  .June 
F.H.R.made  Secretary. .  .June 
Resolutions     to     promote 
American  Shipping. .  .  .June 

Southampton June 

Shanklin,  Daisch's  Hotel  June 
Review  of  Jubilee  Fleet  June 
200    English,    12    foreign 

ships June 

Ryde,  Isle  of  Wight June 

Newport June 

Cowes June 

Ventnor,  Isle  of  Wight. .  .June 
Bonchurch,  Isle  of  Wight  June 
Carisbrooke    Castle,    Isle 

of  Wight June 

Salisbury,  England June 

Concert  in  the  Cathedral 

Ground? June 

Cedars  of  Lebanon June 

Bishop  of  Exeter  and  the 

service June 

Stonehenge June 

Old  Sarum June 

Amesbury June 

Exeter June 

The  Cathedral June 

Tombs    of    Bishops    and 

Crusaders June 

Service  in  Cathedral June 

Penzance,  Cornwall June 

Devonshire,  Cornwall  . .  .June 

St.  Michael's  Mount June 

Land's  End June 

"Dundagil  by  the  Cornish 

Sea" June 

Primitive  village June 

Logan  Rock June 

Tintagel,    Land    of   King 

Arthur June 

Land's    End    and   Mine- 
head June 

British  and  Druid  Ruins  June 

Truro — St.  Ives June 

Camelford June 

Mrs.    R.    sitting    on    Ar- 
thur's     Seat     600      ft. 

above  the  sea July 

Ilfracombe July 

Clovelly  and  the  New  Inn  July 


20, 

1897 

2.v3 

20, 

1897 

2.v3 

21. 

1897 

2=;s 

21, 

1897 

2,s,=; 

22, 

1897 

257 

22, 

1897 

2,S7 

2.3, 

1897 

2S7 

24, 

1897 

2r;8 

24, 

1897 

258 

24, 

1897 

2,!;9 

24, 

1897 

2.S9 

24. 

1897 

2^9 

2=;, 

1897 

2S9 

26, 

1897 

261 

26, 

1897 

261 

26, 

1897 

261 

26, 

1897 

262 

26, 

1897 

262 

26, 

1897 

262 

26, 

1897 

263 

26, 

1897 

26^ 

26, 

1897 

263 

26, 

1897 

263 

27, 

1897 

26^ 

27, 

1897 

265 

28, 

1897 

26,- 

28, 

1897 

26^ 

29, 

1807 

268 

29, 

1897 

268 

29, 

1897 

268 

29, 

1897 

268 

30, 

1897 

268 

^o, 

1897 

268 

30, 

1897 

269 

30, 

1897 

271 

30, 

1897 

271 

30, 

1897 

269 

30, 

1897 

269 

30, 

1897 

271 

2, 

1897 

272 

2, 

1897 

272 

6, 

1897 

277 

Biddeford July 

Barnstable July 

Lynton July 

Lynmouth July 

Lorna  Doone  Country.  .  .July 

Porlock July 

Minehead July 

Exmoor July 

Bath JulV 

Wells JulV 

Wells  Cathedral July 

Glastonbury  Abbey July 

Oxford July 

Blenheim  Castle July 

Fine  weather  in  Corn- 
wall, Devonshire,  Som- 
ersetshire, Wiltshire, 
Hampshire  and  part  of 

Dorsetshire July 

Deer  in  Magdalen  Gar- 
dens  Ju'y 

Christ  Church  College.  .  .July 

London July 

Eton  and  Harrow  Cricket 

Match July 

Earl's  Court July 

Welcome  Club July 

Sunday  on  the  Thames      July 
The  wonderful  crowds.  .  .July 

Paddington July 

David  Bispham July 

"Skindles" July 

Electric    Launch    for    the 

day July 

Passing  the  "Locks".  .  .  .July 

Cliveden July 

Cookham July 

Surley  Hall July 

Windsor July 

Richmond July 

Star  and  Garter July 

Sheen  House,  former  home 

of  Count  de  Paris July 

Hotel  Metropole,  Lon- 
don  July 

Weather  like  May July 

Fames  in  Nozze  di  Fig- 
aro, at  the  Opera July 

Henley  Regatta July 

Indian  Prince  at  Hotel. .  .July 
Ride  down  Strand  on  bus  July 
Chancery    Lane,    Lincoln 
Inn  and  High  Holbornjuly 

249 


4, 

1897 

274 

4, 

1897 

274 

4, 

1897 

274 

4, 

1897 

274 

4, 

1897 

274 

6, 

1897 

276 

6, 

1897 

276 

6, 

1897 

276 

6, 

1897 

276 

6, 

1897 

276 

6, 

1897 

277 

8, 

1897 

279 

8, 

1897 

279 

8, 

1897 

279 

8,  1897  279 


1S97 
1897 
1897 

1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 

1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 


280 
280 
281 

282 
283 
283 
284 
284 
284 
284 
284 

285 
285 
285 
28s 
285 
285 
285 
285 


12,  1897  286 


1897 
1897 

1897 
1897 
1897 
1897 


286 
287 

287 
287 


17, 1897  289 


INDEX 


Irving  and  Terry  at 
theatre Ju 

Supper  at  the  "Savoy"  Ju 

Folkstone,  Boulogne  and 
Paris Ju 

Hotel  Normandie Ju 

Jardin  des  Tuilleries Ju 

Versailles  and  Mons. 
Mourgue Ju 

Fontainebleau  and  Bar- 
bizon Ju 

Scare  about  luggage Ju 

Jupiter  and  Pharamond, 
great  trees Ju 

Cologne,  Brussels  and 
Exposition  Cathedral.  .Ju 

Journey    up    the    Rhine  Ju 

Frankfort Ju 

Hombourg  an  der  Hohe  Aug. 

Royal  Victoria  tlotel.  .  .  .Aug. 

Kursaal Aug. 

Wiesbaden Aug. 

Saw  Sons  of  mj-  old  Pro- 
fessor  Aug. 

Frcsenius  and  the  Lab- 
oratory  Aug. 

Invitations  from  Count 
and  Countess  Adelmann  Aug. 

Future  Review  by  Em- 
peror William Aug. 

Baths  and  waters  in  the 
Kur Aug. 

The  "Saalburg" — An- 
cient Roman  Camp. . .  .Aug. 

The  old  "Schloss,"  re- 
furnished for  Emperor 
\\  illiam's  visit Aug. 

Dinner  on  the  Kurhaus 
Terrace Aug. 

Castle  garden  and  curi- 
ous shaped  Box  Plants  Aug. 

Hombourg,  after  a  S 
years'  interval  (1892).  .Aug. 

Bicycle  outing  to  the 
Tannenwald Aug. 

Yagd  House  gaieties Aug. 

Exhaustion  from  waters 
and  baths Aug. 

Dance  at  the  Kursaal 
under  patronage  of  the 
Duke  of  Cambridge  .  .  .Aug. 

Fireworks  and  illumina- 
tions at  the  Kursaal .  .  .Aug. 

Heidelberg,  Hausach  and 
Triberg Aug. 

Sigmaringen  on  the  Dan- 
ube  Aug. 

Meeting  Countess  Adel- 
mann  Aug. 

Dinner  given  to  us  by 
Leopold  of  Hohenzol- 
lern.  Cousin  of  Emperor 
William  H Aug. 


Count     (Hof    Kammcr 
y  17,1897    290  President)  and  Countess 

y  17,  1897    292  Adelmann Aug. 

Strange    sensations    of    a 

y  21,  1897    293  Richardson Aug. 

y  21,  1897    294       Riding  in  Royal  Carriage. 

y  25,  1897    294  Description       of       our 

home  at  Hof  Kammer 

y  25,  1897    294  Building Aug. 

Wonders  of  Schloss  Hoh- 

y  25,  1897    295  enzollern Aug. 

y  28,  1897    297       Monastery  of  Beuron  on 

the  Danube Aug. 

y  30,  1897    298       Gregorian  Music Aug. 

Pater    Nicholas,    head    of 

y  30,  1897    301  the  Benedictines Aug. 

y  30,  1897    301       Schloss    Grueningcn    and 
30,  1897    301  the    family    Hornstein  Aug. 

2,  1897    302       Count  Hornstein's  family 
2,  1897    302  book  and  his  illumina- 

2,1897    304  ted  coats  of  arms,  etc.    Aug. 

2,1897    303       Portraits  and  embroideriesAug. 
Sedan      Chair     to      play 

2,  1897    303  bowls Aug. 

Graf     Bruhl     and     Graf 

6,  1897    306  Gallen Aug. 

Menu  of  the  Dinner Aug. 

2,  1897    303       Burg      Hohenzollern      at 

Hechingen Aug. 

6,  1897    307      Hohenstauffen Aug. 

Jamestown    corn,     toma- 
2,  1897    304  toes  and  flannel  cakes  Aug. 

Ulm,  Hotel  Drei  MohrenAug. 
6,  1897    305      Augsburg,  Fugger  Haus  Aug. 

Munich Aug. 

Hotel  Bayerischer  Hof. .  .Aug. 
6,  1897    307       Cosi     Fan    Tutti,     Resi- 

denz  Theatre Aug. 

6,  1897    307       Kaim  Concert Aug. 

Tristan  &  Isolde,  Vogl  as 

6,  1897    307  Tristan Aug. 

Fledermaus Aug. 

II,  1897    309       Old     Clock     bought     for 

library Aug. 

11,1897    309      Aalen Aug. 

II,  1897    310       Schloss    Hohenstadt    and 
its    interesting  services. 

11,1897    310  Crypt Aug. 

Adelmannsfelden Aug. 

French  Garden Aug. 

I3>  1897    311       Tablet     of     Ancestor     of 

Crusaders Aug. 

I3>  1897    311       Great  Moat  and  gold  fish  Aug. 

Souffle  au  Chocolat Aug. 

20,1897    316       Wonderful  Stair  Case. ..  .Aug. 
Hohenstadt    and     its 

19,  1897    311           dozen  or  more  farms.. Aug. 
Stuttgart Aug. 

20,  1897    314       Freudenstadt    in    the 
Black  Forest Sept. 

Tubingen,    scene   of   hus- 
band's    University   ex- 
20,  1897    314  periences     in     1869-70. Sept. 

250 


1897  314 

1897  314 

1897  317 

1897  318 

1897  318 

1897  318 

1897  318 

1897  319 


1897    319 
1897    320 


20,  1897    321 


1897  321 

1897  323 

1897  322 

1897  322 

1897  323 

1897  330 

1897  330 

1897  328 

1897  328 

1897  330 

1897  331 

1897  331 

1897  331 

1897  331 

1897  331 


1897  332 

1897  334 

1897  334 

1897  334 

1897  336 

1897  338 

1897  338 

1897  339 

1897  339 


I,  1897  340 


3.  1897  341 


INDEX 


Drive  through  the  Black 
Forest Sept. 

Oppenau Sept. 

Strasbourg Sept. 

Paris,  Normandy  Hotel.  .Sept. 

Rainy  weather Sept. 

Unable  to  go  to  Vosges 
Mountains  on  account 
of  rain Sept. 

American  Church,  Paris. Sept. 

Costs  of  dresses,  etc., 
very  high Sept. 

Meal  at  the  "Diner  de 
Paris" Sept. 

Compiegne,  Pierrefonds .  .Sept. 

Galleries  of  the  Louvre, 
Luxembourg,  Ver- 
sailles and  others Sept. 

Latin  Quarter  and  Ecole 
Polytechnic Sept. 

Paris Sept. 


3.  1897  341 

3.  1897  341 

3,  1897  341 

3.  1897  341 

3,  1897  341 


9,  1897  343 

9,  1897  343 

9, 1897  344 

9.  1897  344 

9,  1897  344 


9,  1897  345 

9, 1897    345 
9,  1897    344 


Palace  01  the  Senate Sept.  9, 

Laon,  Rheims Sept.  14, 

Description  of  Com- 
piegne, etc Sept. 14, 

Laon Sept. 14, 

Cathedral  at  Rheims  and 

Roman  Arch Sept. 14, 

Paris Sept. 17, 

Visit  from  Sigmund  Adel- 

mann Sept. 19, 

Journey  to  Rouen,  meet- 
ing there  Mrs.  Thack- 
ara,  daughter  of  Gen'l 
Sherman  and  the  in- 
teresting    things     in 

Rouen Sept.  19, 

Visit  to  the  Thackaras  at 
Havre,  where  he  is  Con- 
sul General  Sept. 14, 

Aboard  S.  S.  Touraine.  .  .Sept.24, 
Rough  voyage 


1897  345 

1897  346 

1897  346 

1897  346 

1897  346 

1897  348 

1897  350 


1897  350 


1897  348 
1897  350 


EN  ROUTE 

U.S.  M.S.  "St.  Paul" 
Wed.  June  i6,  1897,  11  A.  M. 
Off  Sandy  Hook. 
Dear  Boys, 

Thus  far  everything  most  satisfactory — sea  calm  as  a  mill 
pond  and  Mother  fixing  state  room  as  if  she  were  to  stay  per- 
manently aboard.  Lots  of  acquaintances.  Mama  shed  a  tear 
of  gratitude  for  your  good-bye  greetings.     Love  to  you  both 

from  us, 

Yr.  aff. 

F.  H.  R. 

Aboard  the  "St.  Paul," 

Sunday,  June  20th,  1897. 
My  Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  rolling  off  20  miles  an  hour  in  midocean  and 
more  than  half  over  to  Europe  and  your  Mother  and  I  have 
been  to  every  meal,  on  deck  all  day  and  far  into  the  night  and 
sleeping  like  tops,  and  your  Mother  eating  strawberries  and 
soft  shell  crabs,  pastry  and  shad,  lobster  and  all  the  indi- 
gestible things  imaginable. 

Our  state  room  is  most  comfortable  and  convenient  and 
we  have  an  excellent  place  at  table  on  the  port  side  in  an  alcove 
next  to  Hon.  Bellamy  Storer,  Minister  to  Belgium,  and  we 
have  become  quite  friendly  with  him  and  his  family.  We  find 
a  number  of  friends  aboard  and  there  are  lots  of  nice  young 

253 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

girls.  The  first  two  days  were  fairly  smooth  and  sunshiny, 
but  Friday  and  yesterday  were  rainy,  cold  and  a  heavy  sea. 
The  ship  goes  ahead,  however,  making  about  460  miles  a  day 
on  the  Southern  track  to  avoid  icebergs  and  fog. 

We  have  had  no  fog  and  see  no  ships  or  live  things.  1 
wish  you  both  were  with  us,  I  think  of  you  every  minute  and 
shall  miss  you  both. 

Our  plans  are  just  as  unsettled  as  ever  and  we  wdll  have  to 
write  you  later  when  our  intentions  are  fixed. 

We  have  a  lot  of  Bishops  aboard  and  about  thirty  Phila- 


4  ¥A 


ABOARD  S.  S.  ST.  PAUL,  JUNE,  1897 

delphians.  Mr.  Wm.  P.  Clyde  with  a  lot  of  daughters,  Mr. 
Frank  Firth  with  a  party.  I  believe  you  both  would  have  en- 
joyed the  trip,  and  Sam  would  have  a  taste  of  the  sea  under 
good  auspices.  The  St.  Paul  is  as  firm  and  staunch  as  a  rock 
and  I  was  scared  a  bit  at  her  big  roll,  but  she  recovers  so 
steadily  and  firmly  I  quite  enjoy  it  now. 

There  are  two  bright  Japanese  merchants,  some  French 
folks  who  amuse  Mary,  and  people  from  all  over  the  States. 
I  talk  a  good  deal  with  the  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court 
of  Wisconsin,  a  very  cheery,  intelligent  man.     The  service  is 

very  good  and  folks  can  eat  and  drink  all  the  time.    The  young 

254 


EN  ROUTE 

men  aboard  don't  have  much  fun,  there  being  no  one  to  lead 
off.  I  gave  my  letter  to  the  Captain,  but  we  have  seen  little 
or  nothing  of  him  and  fortunately  have  no  need  to  bother  him. 
I  will  write  more  as  we  approach  Southampton.  Writing 
is  not  easy  with  the  ship  shaking. 

Monday,  21st,  3  P.  M. 
Dear  Boys, 

I  can  scarcely  realize  that  to-morrow  is  our  last  day  and 
I  have  never  been  sick.  We  have  seen  and  passed  several 
ships.  The  Barringers  and  the  son  of  Mrs.  Bellamy  Storer 
named  Nichols,  who  is  a  Harvard  graduate  and  has  just 
taken  a  fellowship  at  Johns  Hopkins,  are  the  only  young  men 
I  know,  except  young  Davies,  w^ho  came  up  to  speak  to  me  and 
introduced  me  to  all  the  family,  and  they  are  very  nice.  The 
Storers  have  a  daughter  who  married  the  Marquis  de  Cham- 
brun,  who  lives  in  Washington.  We  find  Mr.  Storer  is  first 
cousin  to  the  Tysons. 

There  is  a  prize  fighter  on  board  by  the  name  of  Sharkey, 
who  gave  a  performance  of  punching  the  bag  this  p.  m.  He 
seems  to  attract  the  boys  and  I  saw  young  Davies  walking 
with  him.  There  is  to  be  a  concert  to-night  and  Mme.  de  Vere 
Sapio  who  sang  the  time  we  crossed  five  years  ago  is  going 
to  sing,  and  a  French  lady  is  going  to  play.  To-morrow  will 
be  our  last  day  and  we  shall  be  busy  packing  and  getting  our 
things  in  shape.  Your  Father  says  he  has  no  plans,  but  he 
has  decided  he  wants  to  go  to  the  Isle  of  Wight  all  the  same. 
We  miss  you  very  much 

M.  D.  R. 

Nearing  Southampton, 

•    June  1897. 
My  Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  speeding  along  at  a  20  mile  an  hour  "clip" — 
467  miles  to-day,  the  average  run  and  neither  your  Mother 
nor  I  have  had  a  moment's  discomfort,  on  the  contrary  we  are 
just  from  dinner  after  a  meal  that  would  have  suited  you  both. 

255 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  hours  fly  by  and  yet  wc  do  little.  Sharkey  the  prize 
fighter  is  always  "en  evidence"  and  to-day  pave  an  exhibition 
in  his  green  fighting  trunks  punching  the  bag  on  the  Deck. 
Then  there  are  lots  of  nice  young  girls  and  fellows  and  every- 
body well  and  amiable.  To-night  there  is  to  be  a  concert  for 
the  Seamen's  Orphans'  Society,  beginning  with  Mr.  Storerand 
ending  with  a  clergyman,  but  Mr.  Sharkey  takes  the  next  to 
the  last  number.  So  time  goes  and  we  look  forward  to  land- 
ing on  Wednesday  noon. 

To-day  I  made  the  tour  of  the  hold  of  the  ship  with  the 
first  officer,  on  his  inspection,  a  favor  no  one  else  has  had  and 
I  was  greatly  pleased  with  the  wonderful  arrangements  and 
the  cleanliness  and  good  discipline.  There  isn't  an  unpleasant 
odor  anywhere  and  everywhere  the  tidiness  and  cleanliness 
are  pleasing. 

While  we  have  head  winds,  rain  and  a  heavy  sea,  the  old 
ship  plows  right  through  them  and  this  evening  is  wet  and 
cloudy.  I  don't  pretend  to  keep  a  diary,  so  you  will  have  to 
depend  on  our  telling  you  of  things  in  detail  on  our  return  in 
September. 

Your  Mother  is  like  a  young  girl,  so  enthusiastic  and  well 
and  making  plans  for  our  journeys,  so  I  rest  content  and  let 
her  have  her  way. 

So  good-night  and  accept  our  deepest  expression  of  love 
and  good  wishes  to  you  both  for  lots  of  happiness  and  health. 
Tell  my  brothers  of  our  good  fortune  in  escaping  illness  and 

in  meeting  nice  people. 

As  ever  your  affectionate 

F.  H.  R 

Tuesday,  June  22nd,  1897,  9.30  P.  M. 
Approaching  Port  in  a  fog. 

U.S.  M.S.  "St.  Paul" 
Dear  Harry, 

Our  journey  will  be  ended  at  noon  to-morrow  and  a  happy 
one  it  has  been  indeed!     While  we  have  had  rain,  are  now  in 

a  fog  and  the  wind  blew  a  half  gale  for  a  day  or  two,  Mary 

256 


EN  ROUTE 

and  I  have  been  wonderfully  well  and  never  missed  a  single 
meal  and  the  good  ship  St.  Paul  is  as  staunch  as  a  rock, 

I  have  had  the  good  luck,  through  Griscom's  courtesy  and 
on  the  coat  tails  of  Frank  Firth,  President  of  the  Erie  and 
Western  Transportation  Co.,  and  Wm.  P.  Clyde,  the  head  of 
the  Clyde  Line,  of  seeing  this  ship  in  every  nook  and  cranny, 
and  am  delighted  with  the  marvels  of  construction. 

To-night  there  was  the  usual  meeting  to  thank  the  officers 
of  the  ship  for  our  safe  journey  thus  far.  Hon.  Bellamy  Storer, 
Minister  to  Belgium,  opened,  and  the  Chief  Justice  of  the 
Supreme  Court  of  Wisconsin  presided  and  I  acted  as  Secre- 
tary. All  the  passengers  were  in  the  Saloon  and  we  had  some 
good  resolutions  and  rattling  speeches  from  Bishop  Neely  of 
Maine,  Judge  Cassady  of  Wisconsin  and  Storer.  As  the  reso- 
lutions will  be  spread  pretty  wide  by  the  S.  S.  Co.,  should  any 
letters  come  to  me  at  the  office  as  Secretary,  read  them  and, 
if  of  any  use,  have  copies  sent  to  C.  A.  Griscom,  as  Clyde  and 
others  want  to  start  a  movement  for  legislation  to  promote 
ships  carrying  the  American  flag. 

We  will  probably  land  at  Southampton  to-morrow  noon 
if  this  fog  don't  interfere  and  go  to  the  Isle  of  Wight  for  a  day 
and  then  on  to  Cornwall  and  Devonshire  and  later  to  London. 

I  have  met  a  few  interesting  people,  Storer  being  at  our 
table  with  his  wife  and  son  and  very  companionable,  his  wife 
being  a  daughter  of  Nicholas  Longworth  of  Cincinnati,  the 
son  a  bright  fellow  who  has  taken  a  fellowship  at  Johns  Hop- 
kins University. 

It  is  hard  to  realize  we  are  not  going  into  Newport  Harbor 
in  a  fog  instead  of  being  out  200  miles  from  shore  in  the  "  Broad 
Atlantic,"  it  is  so  smooth  and  people  so  cheery. 

Your  aff.  brother, 

F. 


17 


ENGLAND 

Daisch's  Hotel,  Shanklin,  Isle  of  Wight,  England 
My  Dear  Boys,  Thursday,  June  24,  1897. 

Here  we  are,  busy  sightseeing  and  everything  so  beautiful 
and  new  to  us.    Your  Mother  is  wonderfully  well  and  rested 


SOUTHAMPTON 


well  at  Southampton.    I  went  with  Mr.  Page  to  see  the  town 

there,  saw  four  cricket  Matches  and  the  town  was  gay  with 

iiags  for  the  Queen's  Jubilee  and  at  least  500  yachts,  big  and 

258 


ENGLAND 

little,  in  the  harbor.  We  made  a  tour  around  the  war  ships, 
200  EngHsh  and  a  dozen  foreign,  including  the  Brooklyn 
which  was  most  imposing  of  all. 

This  morning  we  took  the  boat  to  Cowes  where  we  saw 
Goelet's  Mayflower  at  anchor,  a  splendid  boat,  thence  still 
on  our  pretty  little  steamer  to  Ryde  Pier  and  then  by  train 
to  this  exquisite  place.  Newport  is  just  a  little  reminder  of 
it  and  yet  this  is  so  old  and  so  perfect  it  is  wonderful. 

We  met  a  party  coaching  who  had  crossed  on  the  steamer 
with  us,  and  we  are  to  drive  in  a  few  minutes  to  Ventnor,  where 
we  spend  to-night  and  dine  with  them.  To-morrow  we  will 
take  a  coach  ride  and  be  back  in  Southampton  by  Sunday  and 
thence  to  Salisbury.  Oh  how  I  wish  you  were  with  us  to  enjoy 
it  all,  altho  it  is  a  bit  hot.  Your  Mother  joins  me  in  best  love 
to  you  both.     Love  to  your  uncles.  a  rr  F   H   R 

White  Hart  Hotel, 
Salisbury,  Eng.,  June  25,  1897. 
Dear  Sa.m, 

Here  we  are  under  Lhe  shadow  of  the  Cathedral  after  such 
a  two  days  as  I  never  had  before.  We  saw  Southampton  with 
over  1000  Yachts,  wxnt  around  the  200  warships  and  went 
yesterday  noon  to  the  Isle  of  Wight,  lunching  at  Shanklin, 
going  through  Bonchurch  to  a  delicious  Hotel,  coaching  to-day 
to  Carisbrooke  Castle  and  going  all  over  it,  thence  to  New- 
port, the  Capital  of  the  Isle  of  Wight,  took  train  to  Cowes, 
saw  Mayflower  and  Valiant,  and  back  to  Southampton  and 
here  we  are  wxll  and  not  tired. 

If  you  were  along  we  w^ould  be  completely  happy. 

AflFy.  F.  H.  R. 

White  Hart  Hotel, 
Salisbury,  Eng.,  June  26,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

Since  writing  you  on  board  ship,  so  much  has  happened 
I  don't  know  how  to  begin.    We  all  separated  on  landing  at 

259 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Southampton  in  a  hot  sun.  W'c  went  to  Radlcy's  hotel,  and 
stayed  over  night,  and  left  at  1 1  a.  iM.  next  day  for  Isle  of 
W  ight.  The  crowds  of  people  at  Southampton  were  terrific. 
Frank  and  I  had  intended  to  come  back  Friday  and  stop  over 
night  there  en  route  here,  but  couldn't  get  a  bed  on  account 
of  the  crowds  coming  to  see  the  Naval  Review. 

While  I  unpacked  trunks,  &:c.  Frank  went  on  a  three  hours' 
trip  around  the  battleships,  and  didn't  get  home  until  after 
ten  at  night.     I  w^as  sorry  not  to  go,  but  of  course  had  to  give 


mmammoM 

DAISCH'S  HOTEL.  SHANKLIN,  ISLE  OF  WIGHT 

up  as  I  was  not  feeling  well  enough.  So  the  next  day  w^e  took 
the  boat  for  Cowes  and  Ryde  and  I  saw  them  all,  without  any 
trouble.  I  thought  ourWar  Ship  Brooklyn  looked  the  best  of  all. 
We  took  the  train  at  Ryde  Pier  and  went  to  Shanklin  and 
this  time  went  to  Daisch's  hotel  in  the  village  and  had  a  deli- 
cious lunch  and  Frank  went  out  after,  down  the  Chine  and 
along  the  Esplanade  and  I  rested.  Words  fail  to  describe  the 
hotel,  the  oldest  on  the  Isle  of  Wight.  It  had  the  most  per- 
fect roses  climbing  to  the  roof  and  such  vines !  And  everywhere 
growing  on  roofs  and  walls,  is  a  dark  pink  flower  they  call  a 

weed  and  makes  an  exquisite  effect  ot  color.     Also  a  yellow 

260 


ENGLAND 

lichen  and  such  gardens  with  hedges  and  terraces  and  the  pea- 
cocks strutting  about. 

Instead  of  taking  the  train,  we  had  a  carriage  and  drove 
over  to  Ventnor  through  Bonchurch  and  Luecombe.  It  was 
certainly  a  paradise  on  earth.  We  stopped  at  the  old  church 
at  Bonchurch,  built  in  1070,  with  Norman  remains  and  such 
a  churchyard  and  flowers  and  trees.     Frank  got  excellent  pic- 


'■*'^'^ 


BOXCHURCH,  ISLE  OF  WIGHT 


tures  of  Shanklin  thatched  village  and  Bonchurch.  At  Vent- 
nor Frank  was  glad  to  see  his  friend  Mr.  Firth  and  party  at 
the  "Crab  and  Lobster,"  the  most  perfect  hotel  you  can 
imagine,  delicious  beds,  linen  sheets,  perfect  service,  and  such 
a  restful  place. 

We  arranged  to  go  the  next  morning  at  10.30  to  Caris- 
brooke  Castle  by  coach.  So  the  next  morning  a  swell  coach 
appeared  with  four  horses  and  trumpeter  and  we  all  piled  on, 
baggage  and  all,  and  had  the  most  heavenly  ride  of  fifteen 
miles  across  the  Island  to  Carisbrooke  Castle,  which  we  saw 

thoroughly  while   lunch  was   being  prepared   at  the   "Eight 

261 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Bells"  in  the  village.  As  I  had  been  all  over  the  Castle  before, 
I  kept  quiet  and  enjoyed  looking  at  everything,  and  then  we 
went  down  to  a  perfect  lunch  and  were  surprised  to  find  the 
table  set  out  on  a  lawn,  like  velvet,  behind  the  little  Inn  and 
great  towering  trees  overhead.  We  revelled  in  strawberries 
there  and  everywhere  and  then  we  took  the  train  at  Newport 
for  Cowes  and  there  we  found  the  crowd  again. 

We  got  over  to  Southampton  about  five  o'clock    and  to 
Radlev's,  where  I  had  left  the  trunks.    So  I  started  two  trunks 


THE  CRAB  AND  LOBSTER,  VENTNOR 

for  London  and  then  we  got  off  for  Salisbury  and  arrived  here 
at  about  eight  o'clock.  On  our  arrival  we  found  that  there 
was  a  concert  in  the  Cathedral  grounds  and  illumination  of 
the  Bishop's  palace,  so  of  course  we  went  at  once.  You  can 
imagine  how  the  great  Cathedral  and  the  cedars  of  Lebanon, 
looked  in  the  artificial  light,  altho  at  9.30  there  was  still  day- 
light. Such  turf  cannot  be  seen  out  of  England,  it  is  so  fine 
and  springs  up  like  a  velvet  carpet. 

This  morning  we  all  went  to  service  at   10  and   the  full 

262 


ENGLAND 

choir  and  the  Bishop  of  Exeter  and  we  ten  Americans  con- 
stituted the  congregation,  and  we  sat  in  the  choir.  The  sing- 
ing and  intoning  were  Hke  from  angels  and  such  fine  fugue 
music.      Then  we  were  conducted  all  over  the  Cathedral. 

As  soon  as  we  came  back,  I  had  decided  we  would  drive  to 
Stonehenge  as  it  was  a  grey  day  and  I  wanted  to  see  it  under 
such  a  sky.  So  we  were  off  again  in  a  drag,  and  went  by  way 
of  Old  Sarum,  the  ancient  British  camp,  and  afterwards 
Roman,  which  was  the  beginning  of  Salisbury.  Then  we  went 
out  to  Amesbury  and  wandered  around  the  old  Abbey  Church 


LUNCH  AT  CARISBROOKE  CASTLE  AT  "EIGHT  BELLS  INN" 

and  a  beautiful  private  park  and  quaint  old  houses.  We  only 
had  a  few  minutes  for  lunch  at  the  "George,"  and  it  was  so 
good,  cold  meats  and  salad  and  hot  potatoes  and  a  hot  Goose- 
berry tart  with  cream.  Frank  was  the  last  to  get  into  the 
brake  with  his  mouth  full  and  then  we  were  off  to  Stonehenge. 
Instead  of  being  on  a  low  flat  plain,  it  is  on  high  rolling 
country,  but  bare  and  lull  of  little  hillocks  called  "barrows," 
which  were  Saxon  burial  places.  The  great  stones  are  some- 
thing wonderful,  looming  up  against  the  dark  sky,  the  mystery 

263 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

of  the  ages,  as  there  is  no  positive  knowledge  as  to  how  they 
got  there  when  there  is  no  appearance  of  stone,  or  what  they 
were  put  there  for.  Standing  on  the  sacrificial  altar  and  look- 
ing through  between  two  great  stones,  one,  situated  at  a  little 
distance,  comes  up  directly  in  the  middle  and  marks  where 
the  sun  rises  on  the  longest  day  of  the  year,  June  2 1st. 

We  drove  off  right  over  the  grassy  downs  and  the  effect 
of  Stonehenge  against  the  sky  was  immense,  too  overpowering 
to  either  realize  or  describe.  It  and  the  Sphinx  remain  the 
unsolvable  mysteries  of  all  time. 


SALISBURY  CATHEDRAL 


We  came  back  direct  to  the  Railway  station  and  had  a  good 
rest  and  dinner  and  it  has  rained  hard.  Frank  went  to  the 
Cathedral  Close  and  took  some  pictures.  To-morrow  we  go 
to  the  Sunday  morning  service  and  at  2  p.  m.  go  to  Exeter, 
where  we  shall  be  over  night,  and  leave  late  in  the  afternoon 
for  Penzance. 

Frank  is  like  a  boy  out  of  school  and  calls  himself  a  per- 
sonally conducted  tour  and  refuses  to  lift  his  fingers  to  do 
anything  but  take  photographs  and  pay  the  bills. 

Love  to  all, 

Afiiy,  M.  D.  R. 

264 


ENGLAND 

Hotel  Salisbury,  June  27th,  1897. 
Dear  Cliff, 

Here  we  are  at  a  typical  English  Tavern,  have  been  here 
since  Friday  night.  We  arrived  from  the  Isle  of  Wight  in 
time  to  dine  and  attend  the  Bishop's  Concert  in  the  private 
grounds  of  his  palace.  Since  then  we  have  been  busy  doing 
the  Cathedral  and  Stonehenge  and  to-day  we  go  to  full  ser- 
vice at  the  Cathedral  and  leave  for  Exeter  at  2  p.  ai.  to  see 
the  See  there. 

Your  Mother  is  just  as  indefatigable  as  ever  and  happy 
all  the  time  and  full  of  adjectives  of  admiration  and  desire 
to  learn  of  the  history  and  origin  of  things.  The  climate  here 
is  most  enjoyable  to  me,  altho  the  sky  is  dark  and  foggy  and 
even  rainy  at  times 

We  will  get  to  Penzance  to-morrow  and  may  go  even  to 
Land's  End  which  as  you  can  see  by  the  map  is  pretty  near  the 
"jumping  off  place."  Distances  are  absurdly  small  here  and 
yet  it  is  as  much  of  a  job  to  move  on  as  if  for  a  transatlantic  tour. 

Yrs.  affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

Monday,  June  28th,  1897. 
Royal  Clarence  Hotel, 

Exeter. 
Dear  Boys, 

As  you  see  by  this  heading  I  am  sitting  in  a  lovely  bay 
window  overlooking  Exeter  Cathedral,  where  we  have  spent 
the  last  hour  seeing  such  beautiful  things,  tombs  of  bishops, 
dating  from  nth  century,  and  crusaders  lying  inside  their 
stone  coffins. 

Your  Father  and  I  went  to  service  yesterday  at  Salisbury 
Cathedral  with  a  young  New  Yorker  studying  Anthropology. 
We  went  to  Stonehenge  and  we  came  on  here  by  the  2  o'clock 
train,  which  started  at  3  and  got  here  at  six,  just  in  time  for 
a  delicious  dinner,  and  we  were  pleased  to  find  ourselves  in 
this  quaint  old  Inn  and  near  the  Cathedral. 

We  rushed  dinner  to  get  to  the  7  p.  m.  service,  and  en- 
joyed it  with  eye  and  ear.     It  is  so  different  from  Salisbury 

26.S 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


bXETER  CATHEDRAL 


INTERIOR  OF  EXETER  CATHEDRAL 
266 


ENGLAND 

that  it  is  impossible  to  compare  them.  The  former  is  enormous 
and  very  lofty,  giving  a  distinctly  cold  impression,  surrounded 
by  cedars  of  Lebanon  and  exquisite  parks,  while  this  has  very 
little  ground  about  it  but  is  much  more  decorated  and  re- 
minds me  very  much  of  the  French  Cathedrals,  mixed  with 

Oxford. 

The  Bishop's  chair  reaches  to  the  roof  and  is  the  finest 
wood  carving  in  the  world  and  is  also  unique  in  possessing  a 
minstrel's  gallery.  After  the  service  last  evening  we  went  about 
the  town  through  the  High  St.  which  was  thronged  with  peo- 


PENZANCE 


pie  and  your  Father  thought  it  looked  more  like  a  German 
than  an  English  town.  And  this  morning  he  went  hard  at 
work  with  his  camera. 

On  our  way  to  the  Palace  Gardens  we  were  attracted  by  a 
very  fine  old  wooden  gate  closing  an  arch  way  and  peeped  in  to 
find  a  little  court  with  most  beautiful  quaint  windows  and  doors 
and  a  Latin  inscription,  and  took  some  pictures  of  it.  The  verger 
of  the  Cathedral  told  us  that  it  had  been  a  part  of  the  original 
Bishop's  House,  the  one  who  rebuilt  the  Norman  Cathedral 
and  had  it  decorated.     Tell  Ellen  we  are  revelling  in  goose- 

267 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

berry  tart  with  Devonshire  cream  and  get  her  to  make  you 
one.    With  much  love  from  both  of  us, 

Your  aff.  Mother,  M.  D.  R. 

Penzance,  Cornwall,  England, 

June  29,  1897. 
Dear  Boys, 

Can  you  imagine  us  here,  within  a  few  miles  of  Land's 
End,  the  S.  W.  Corner  of  England?  Well  we  left  Exeter  this 
afternoon  after  seeing  the  beautiful  Cathedral  built  in  1160 
and  the  quaint  old  town  and  came  through  the  most  exquisite 
scenery  of  Devonshire  and  Cornwall.  We  will  visit  St.  Mich- 
aels Mount  (a  miniature  Mont  St.  Michel),  Land's  End,  etc., 
and  then  go  for  our  coaching  tour  up  to  North  Cornwall  and 
Devonshire  and  to  Bath  and  Wells  and  then  up  to  London. 
We  are  so  on  the  go  we  can't  do  much  writing.  We  both  send 
best  love  and  wishes,  awaiting  good  news  from  vou. 

Your  aff.  '     F.  H.  R. 

WharnclilTe  Arms  Hotel, 
Tintagel,  North  Cornwall. 
June  30th,  1897. 
Dear  Boys, 

I  began  a  letter  to  you  at  Exeter  and  was  called  away  in 
the  middle  of  it,  and  fear  it  is  now  lost,  as  I  put  it  in  the  guide 
book  which  we  are  constantly  using. 

I  have  been  revelling  to-day  in  this  King  Arthur  land  in 
old  stone  cofHns,  and  relics  of  Druid  times,  and  in  the  Castle 
"Dundagil  by  the  Cornish  Sea"  and  no  words  can  describe 
the  beauty  of  this  coast,  and  the  wonderful  color  effects  in 
the  sky;  it  is  much  finer  than  Jersey  and  Guernsey,  while  re- 
sembling them  very  much. 

This  village  is  so  primitive  one  might  almost  call  it  prime- 
val. There  is  no  wood  to  be  seen  on  the  outside  of  the  houses. 
The  door  frames  and  window  frames  are  stone  and  slate  and 
the  cottages  appear  so  much  like  the  rock  formation  that  crops 

out  between  the  turf  that  if  it  were  not  for  the  chimneys  and 

268 


ENGLAND 

smoke  thereof  you  wouldn't  know  they  were  houses.  And  such 
hills  and  gorges  and  chasms! 

King  Arthur's  Castle  is  partly  on  a  high  cliff  on  the  main- 
land and  partly  on  an  island  which  is  connected  by  a  causeway 
to  the  other  somewhat  like  the  one  at  Sark,  only  much  smaller, 
as  in  old  times  a  drawbridge  joined  the  two.  I  hope  your 
Father's  pictures  will  turn  out  wxll,  so  you  can  get  a  little 
idea  of  what  we  have  seen,  altho'  no  picture  can  do  justice 
to  the  coloring. 

We  are  arranging  to  coach  to  Clovelly  to-morrow  and  will 


LAND'S  END,  CORNWALL 

have  a  long  day's  ride,  but  your  Father  likes  to  move  on  even 
faster  than  I  do,  but  we  have  no  interest  in  the  sort  of  people 
staying  in  these  places  as  they  are  the  regulation  funereal  sort. 
Of  course  we  are  both  anxious  to  get  our  first  letters  which  we 
expect  at  Ilfracombe  in  a  day  or  two.  Your  Father  wrote 
you  from  Penzance  and  since  then  we  have  driven  round  Land's 
End  and  the  Logan  rock  and  it  was  very  interesting,  the  coast 
very  fine  and  full  of  interesting  British  and  Druid  remains 
hke  old  crosses  and  cromlechs,  &c.  There  were  so  many  places 
J  would  have  liked  to  stay  at,  Truro  and  St.  Ives,  &c. 

We  saw  some  amusing  names  on  the  grave  stones  or  tablets 

269 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

in  Salisbury  Cathedral.  I  remember  Money  Fishe,  Post- 
humous Chapeau  and  Pothecarye  Jones.  1  heard  a  man  ask 
a  woman  near  Penzance  if  it  had  rained  where  she  had  been 
that  day  and  she  said,  "oh  no,  just  a  jump  or  two :"  and  the  com- 
mon people  say,  "Pll  look  after  he,  sir;"  "There's  nothing 
near  we,  ma'am."  There  are  a  good  many  young  people 
travelling  on  their  wheels,  but  how  they  ever  get  up  these 
hills  I  don't  understand. 


LOGAN  ROCK,  CORNWALL 


With  much  love  and  hoping  to  hear  from  you  soon,  with 
kind  remembrances  to  the  girls.  I  am  getting  stronger  every 
day.    This  is  the  climate  for  me.    With  love. 

Your  AfT.  Mother,  M.  D.  R. 


Tintagel,  WharncliflFe  Arms  Hotel, 

Cornwall  June  30th,  1897. 
Dear   Laura, 

The  last  day  of  June  finds  us  in  this  heavenly  spot,  where 

I  have  longed  to  come  for  years.     When  we  drove  over  in  a 

270 


ENGLAND 

wagonette  from  Camelford  it  was  eight  o'clock  and  bright 
dayHght,  but  the  most  beautiful  evening  sky  effects  you  can 
imagine.  The  sweet  smells  from  the  flowers  and  hedges  are 
almost  overpowering  and  the  air  is  always  cool  even  when  the 
sun  is  hot.  This  morning  dawned  clear  and  we  took  a  pony 
cart  to  go  first  to  the  old  Saxon  church  and  afterwards  to 
King  Arthur's  castle,  "Dundagil  by  the  Cornish  Sea."  But 
it  came  on  to  rain  as  the  English  say  and  I  with  the  pony  cart 
hurried  back. 

You  would  have  screamed  with  fear  if  you  had  seen  the 
hills  I  went  down  and  up.  At  5  o'clock  this  P.  M.  it  cleared  and 
I  with  Frank  went  down  the  gorge  to  the  little  cottage  where  the 
key  is  kept.  Frank  said  it  was  no  use  for  me  to  do  it,  that  the 
walk  down  the  valley  and  back  again  would  be  more  than  I 
could  do,  but  off  we  started  and  took  the  guide  and  went  up. 

Perhaps  you  remember  Mr.  Wm.  T.  Richards'  pictures 
of  Tintagel.  There  is  a  high  headland  with  part  of  the  castle, 
the  old  Saxon  keep  and  beyond  that  a  sort  of  island  attached 
to  the  mainland  by  a  small  causeway.  In  former  times  the 
two  parts  were  connected  by  a  drawbridge  200  or  300  feet  up 
in  the  air.  The  finest  part  of  the  Maine  coast  is  child's  play 
compared  to  this  coast.  Frank's  pictures  will  be  the  only 
way  we  can  describe  it  for  if  I  wrote  every  day  I  couldn't  begin 
to  tell  you  what  we  see  and  do. 

This  is  the  dearest  little  hotel,  and  the  food  dainty  and 
delicious,  all  but  the  coffee,  which  we  put  up  with.  Land's 
End  and  this  place  take  one  back  to  the  stone  age.  Everything 
is  stone — the  houses,  the  roofs,  the  fences,  everything,  and 
the  chimneys  are  very  peculiar  and  look  like  old  women  in 
cloaks  as  you  will  see  by  Frank's  pictures.  There  is  a  little 
one-story  stone  house  struggling  down  the  street  with  slate 
roof  and  high  chimneys  and  bunches  of  yellow  flowers  grow- 
ing on  the  roof  and  a  porch  like  a  church  has. 

The  sunset  is  so  fine  we  must  go  out  for  a  while.     Last 

night  at  8.30  the  sun  was  still  high  up  in  the  sky  and  it  was 

light  at  10.30.    There  are  a  lot  of  stiffys  in  the  house,  clergy- 

271 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

men's  widows,  &c.,  and  there  is  the  general  effect  of  a  funeral 
having  recently  taken  place  in  the  house,  but  it  don't  bother 
us  as  we  are  always  moving  on.  It  is  after  nine  p.  m.  and 
Frank  is  sitting  out  of  doors  reading.  I  am  afraid  to  do  so  as 
I  came  in  so  warm  from  my  climbing  and  it  gets  so  cold  out, 
I  would  surely  take  cold. 

There  is  only  one  street  and  the  babies  out  of  these  stone 
houses  are  still  up  and  playing  in  the  street  with  low  necked 
dresses  and  aprons  and  short  sleeves.  If  I  could  stay  in  this 
climate  a  month  I  would  get  as  strong  as  an  ox,  but  we  should 
want  our  own  party,  we  would  have  the  horrors  otherwise. 
I  have  been  a  perfect  wonder  to  myself  to-day.  We  get  our 
first  letters  at  Ilfracombe  in  two  days.  I  sent  the  sheet  of 
colored  coats  of  arms  to  little  Laura  and  thought  it  would 
interest  her  to  keep  the  headings  of  these  letters. 

Hoping  you  are  all  well,  Affly.,      M.  D.  R. 

Royal  Clarence  Hotel, 
Ilfracombe,  North  Devonshire, 

July  2nd,  1897,  Friday,  10.30  P.  M. 
Dear  Cliff  and  Sam, 

Your  first  letters  reached  us  here  and  were  as  great  a  pleas- 
ure as  any  enjoyed  here.  I  was  truly  glad  to  hear  you  both 
were  well  and  happy  and  enjoying  life  in  your  own  way.  We 
too  have  had  a  glorious  series  of  surprises  in  the  beautiful 
places  we  have  visited  around  the  whole  South  coast  of  Eng- 
land, to  Land's  End,  even  to  the  Cathedral  towns  and  to  Tin- 
tagel  and  Clovelly. 

Your  Mother  keeps  me  busy  firing  off  photographs  and 
she  is  as  nimble  as  a  kitten  climbing  King  Arthur's  seat,  600  ft. 
above  the  sea,  on  dizzy  paths  and  over  rocks  and  rejoicing  in 
long  coaching  tours.  Cornwall  and  Devonshire  are  surprises 
to  us  in  every  way  and  I  can't  begin  to  tell  you  about  them, 
but  we  will  have  lots  to  talk  about  on  our  return. 

This  place  is  said  to  be  very  interesting  and  we  are  to  stay 

here  till  Sunday  and  then  Coach  to  Lynton,  Tuesday  to  Bath 

272 


ENGLAND 

and  Wells  and  we  ought  to  be  in  London  by  Friday.  We  will 
be  in  London  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  so  letters  written  up 
to  the  4th  of  July  will  reach  us  at  Morgan's. 

The  coast  between  Land's  End  and  Minehead  defies  any 
efforts  to  describe  it.  Tintagel  I  wrote  from,  but  Ilfracombe 
we  didn't  like,  it  was  a  sort  of  Atlantic  City;  people,  like  ants, 
all  over  the  hills,  so  we  got  to  Lynton  and  stopped  in  the 
most  perfect  Hotel  and  found  the  rocks  and  cliffs  magnificent. 
I  feel  now  that  we  have  seen  something  of  English  country 


KING  ARTHUR'S  SEAT,  TINTAGEL,  CORNWALL 

and  know  of  no  coast  scenery  to  equal  what  we  have  been 
through.  We  got  our  first  letters  at  Ilfracombe  and  were  so 
thankful  to  know  you  are  all  well  and  that  nothing  has  hap- 
pened. We  go  to  Bath  to-morrow  and  spend  Thursday  there 
and  will  be  in  London  Friday,  probably  will  try  at  the  Metro- 
pole  first  and  then  Victoria  or  Grand.  We  expect  to  go  to 
Glastonbury  this  p.  m.  and  back  to  dinner.  Your  Mother 
joins  me  in  tenderest  love  and  best  wishes. 

Your  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 

Clovelly  is  truly  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  romantic 

spots  on  earth,  and  you  must  visit  there  some  day. 
18  273 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Valley  of  Rocks  Hotel, 

Lynton,  North  Devon. 
July  4th,  1897,  Sunday  9    P.  M. 
Dear  Boys, 

From  the  heading  you  see  we  arc  In  a  lovely  hotel  almost 
by  ourselves,  but  with  views  and  surroundings  that  are 
beyond  description  for  grandeur  ot  rocks,  dizzy  heights  and  ex- 
quisite coloring.  We  left  Clovelly  Friday  afternoon  for  Bidde- 
ford,  dined  there  and  took  the  train  to  Barnstable  and  on  to 
Ufracombe,  which  we  found  to  be  a  biggish  place  and  with  bad 


THE  WALK  FROM  LYNMOUTH  TO  LYXTON 

luck  we  struck  a  forlorn  hotel,  altho  several  fine  ones  were  here. 

The  views  were  splendid  but  we  had  enough  of  it  by  Satur- 
day afternoon  and  took  a  carriage  for  this  place,  twenty  miles 
away,  and  here  we  are.  We  have  gone  to  Lynmouth  by  an 
inclined  railway  down  600  feet  to  the  water's  edge  and  then 
walked  back.  This  afternoon  we  drove  many  miles  through 
wonderful  glens  and  skirted  Exmoor  to  Lorna  Doone's  Valley 
and  saw  so  many  interesting  things  I  cannot  describe  them. 

To-morrow  at  nine  we  coach  20  miles  to  Minehead,  lunch 
there  and  take  train  to  Bath.     This  will  take  us  out  of  the 

274 


ENGLAND 

coast  scenery  and  we  shall  not  be  sorry,  for  we  have  seen  so 
much  our  heads  begin  to  whirl.  In  fact  on  the  walk  this  after- 
noon to  the  Valley  ot  Rocks  along  a  very  sharp  declivity  I 
had  to  turn  back  I  got  so  dizzy.  Your  Mother  persisted  and 
described  the  rocks  as  wonderful. 

But  this  the  4th  of  July,  such  a  noisy  day  at  home,  was  dis- 
mal to  us  for  we  don't  know  a  soul  and  other  folks  appear  to 
be  in  the  same  box  and  wander  around  like  lost  spirits.  Your 
Mother  is  just  as  keen  for  moving  on  and  doing  more  travel- 


GOING  THROUGH  LORNA  DOONE  VALLEY 

ling  as  ever.  We  hope  to  be  in  London  by  Thursday  at  latest 
and  stay  there  a  week  or  ten  days  and  then  go  to  the 
Continent. 

As  we  get  no  news  here  to-day  I  am  impatient  to  hear  of 
the  Boat  Race  yesterday  and  hope  U.  of  P.  won.  Your  Mother 
joins  in  love  to  you. 

Affectionately  yrs, 

F.  H.  R. 

275 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Swan  Hotel,  Wells,  Somerset. 

July  6th,  1897. 
Dear  Boys, 

I  have  written  to  you  and  Aunt  Laura  several  times  since 
I  began  the  enclosed  letter  at  Exeter,  which  I  have  been  carry- 
ing around  intending  each  day  to  finish  it,  but  we  have  trav- 
elled so  rapidly  that  for  days  I  couldn't  get  a  moment  to  wTite. 
01  course  it  w^as  very  delightful  to  travel  by  driving  and  we 
have  thoroughly  enjoyed  it,  but  after  10  days  without  any 


DOOR  OF  CATHEDRAL  AT  BATH 


let  up  w^e  both  feel  like  getting  to  London  and  seeing  people 

and  sleeping  more  than  one  or  two  nights  in  the  same  Hotel. 

We  were  quite  surprised  last  night  when  Basil  A/liles  and  young 

Harrison  walked  in  at  Bath. 

Yesterday's  journey  was  an  exhausting  one  and  w^e  feel 

like  resting  to-day.    We  left  Lynton  at  9  a.  m.  on  the  top  of 

a  coach  and  came  to  Minehead  through  the  Doone  country 

by  Porlock  and   over  Exmoor.     We   had   a   typical   English 

driver,  full  ot  spirit  and  fun,  told  us  stories  in  Devonshire 

276 


ENGLAND 

dialect  and  amused  us  immensely.  The  only  drawbacks  were 
clouds  of  dust.  You  can't  imagine  what  sights  we  were  when 
we  got  to  Minehead  and  the  joy  of  going  into  a  clean,  cool 
hotel  to  hnd  lunch  ready,  but  only  20  minutes  to  get  it  in  and 
get  brushed  and  washed  for  the  train.  However  we  managed 
it  and  after  changing  into  three  trams  got  here  in  time  for  7 
o'clock  dinner,  got  a  big  comfortable  room  looking  out  on  the 
Cathedral  and  have  been  sightseeing  all  morning. 

I  wish  I  could  give  you  some  idea  of  the  wonderful  things 


WELLS  CATHEDRAL 


I  have  seen.     Clovelly  is  unique,  nothing  like  it  in  the  world, 

and  the  most  fantastic  place  you  can  imagine.     It  would  be 

just  like  a  scene  in  a  theatre,  if  it  were  not  for  the  blue  ocean 

and  old  pier  down  at  the  bottom.    We  stayed  at  the  New  Inn 

(no  one  knows  how  old  it  is)  half-way  down  the  street  and  it 

was  all  I  tould  do  to  get  down  to  it. 

Our  baggage  was  brought  down  on   sledges  which  have 

polished  off  the  fine  little  cobble  stones  which  pave  the  streets 

so  that  it  is  hard  to  keep  a  footing.    The  street  is  about  8  ft. 

277 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


>;--fev^-- 


AT  CLOVELLY,  CORNWALL 


NEW  INN.  CLOVELLY 
278 


ENGLAND 

wide  and  the  houses  are  built  on  a  level,  each  with  its  little 
garden  full  of  flowers  enclosed  with  a  railing  and  every  window 
gay  with  color.  Our  hotel  had  a  piazza  instead  of  garden  on 
which  we  sat  and  watched  ever}'thing. 

Excursions  arrive  by  steamer  and  landing  by  little  boats 
on  the  beach,  they  swarmed  all  over  the  place  thro  the  middle 
of  the  day.  The  Hobby  Drive  is  along  the  edge  of  the  Cliff 
3  miles,  at  least  800  or  900  above  the  sea,  going  through  beauti- 
ful trees  and  farms  as  dark  as  the  \\  issahickon  and  ends  at 
the  top  of  the  village  street.  Even  the  sailors  are  dressed  as 
they  were  in  Pinafore,  exactly.  An  old  one  over  80  years  be- 
longed to  our  hotel  and  was  very  amusing. 

Oxford,  England,  July  8,  1897. 
Dear  Cliff  and  Sam, 

Here  we  are,  though  not  on  your  Mother's  schedule.  She 
consented  to  oblige  me  by  coming  here  from  Bath,  it  being 
but  little  out  of  our  way. 

1  wrote  you  last,  I  think  from  Ilfracombe  or  Lynton.  We 
left  there  for  Wells  and  stayed  in  Wells  two  nights  and  a  day, 
and  saw  the  Cathedral,  Bishops  gardens  and  the  luins  of 
Glastonbury.  We  left  Wells  yesterday  early  and  went  to 
Bath,  saw  the  Cathedral  there  and  drove  about  the  city  and 
your  Mother  bathed  in  the  old  Roman  Baths  like  a  loyal 
archseologian  as  she  is,  and  this  morning  we  came  here.  I 
soon  walked  her  legs  oft  and  those  of  a  guide,  took  pictures  of 
many  bits  and  now,  5  p.  m.,  your  Mother  is  gone  to  Christ 
Church  Cathedral  to  a  service  there.  To-morrow  we  go  to 
see  Blenheim  Castle  and  leave  late  in  the  afternoon  for  Lon- 
don, where  we  are  to  be  lodged  for  a  couple  of  weeks  at  the 
Hotel  Metropole. 

So  now  you  have  a  history  of  our  itinerary  up  to  date  and 
a  little  ahead. 

We  have  been  immensely  favored  by  the  weather  during 

our  canter  through  Cornwall,  Devonshire  and   Somersetshire, 

Wiltshire,  Hampshire  and  part  of  Dorsetshire,  and  we  feel  we 

279 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

have  a  fair  idea  ol  these  parts  of  England.  Of  course  we  have 
to  depend  on  each  other  for  company,  for  we  fail  to  find  any 
congenial  English  or  American  travellers.  How'ever,  after  to- 
morrow we  shall  meet  lots  of  familiar  faces  in  London  and  later 
on  in  France  and  Germany.  With  the  Photos  I  have  made 
put  into  an  album  I  will  be  fairly  able  to  give  you  a  good  idea 
of  our  journeys  for  I  am  incapable  of  writing  my  impressions, 
they  crowd  so  quickly  on  my  mind. 


HALL  AT  OXFORD 


Oxford  far  exceeds  my  ideals,  but  I  am  confused  with  the 
innumerable  chapels  in  the  colleges  and  commons  halls  and 
exquisite  architecture  everywhere,  altho  all  lifeless  now  as 
there  are  no  students  about.  To  see  the  Deer  in  Magdalen 
and  the  beautiful  grounds  and  ffowers  in  Trinity  and  the 
wonders  of  Christ  Church  College  upsets  one  for  the  tameness 
of  U.  of  P.  and  other  home  Universities.  So  with  love  from 
both  of  us  and  best  wishes  for  your  health  and  happiness, 

Yr.  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 

280 


ENGLAND 

Hotel  Metropole,  London. 
July  nth,  1897. 
My  Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  in  London!  And  enjoyed  with  great  zest  the 
batch  of  letters  awaiting  us,  telling  of  all  your  doings  at  home. 
We  had  a  most  enjoyable  visit  to  Oxford  and  Blenheim  Palace 
and  came  on  with  some  acquaintances  to  London. 

We  find  this  hotel  most  enjoyable.     Mactear  and  family 


TRAFALGAR  SQUARE  AND  THE  HOTEL  METROPOLE,  LONDON 

have  been  very  attentive.  They  have  cut  out  a  lot  of  things 
for  us,  among  others  a  trip  on  the  Thames  to-day.  They  made 
many  inquiries  about  you  both  and  seemed  to  remember 
Cliff  with  pleasure. 

At  the  pace  we  are  going  I  think  a  week  or  ten  days  here 
will  be  ample  and  we  shall  soon  be  moving  on  to  Paris  and 
Hombourg.  We  are  having  delightful  weather  and  moon- 
light and  we  watch  the  myriads  of  hansoms  and  busses  and 
vehicles  with  the  crowds  of  well-dressed  folks  and  wonder 
where  they  all  come  from.    In  fact  I  am  more  than  usually  im- 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

pressed  with  London's  greatness,  such  buildings  and  such 
evidences  of  immense  wealth! 

However,  I  don't  want  to  be  spoiled  by  it  all  and  won't 
get  cleaned  out  by  the  extravagances  rampant  here. 

We  read  in  the  papers  of  the  hot  wave  prevailing  in  the 
United  States  and  hope  both  of  you  have  the  good  sense  to  try 
and  make  yourselves  comfortable  by  seeking  a  cool  climate. 

Well  I  must  run  now  and  only  thank  you  both  for  your 


THE  ETON-HARROW  CRICKET  MATCH 


goodness  in  writing  so  fully  and  frequently  and  regret  we  can- 
not reciprocate,  but  we  are  on  the  go  constantly.  We  must 
run  for  a  train  at  Paddington  so  good-bye  for  to-day. 

Affy,  F.  H.  R. 

I  saw  the  Eton  vs.  Harrow  match  yesterday.     A  great 
sight. 

Hotel  Metropole,  London, 
July  I2th,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

I  take  advantage  of  our  first  evening  at  home  to  write  a 
line.    London  tires  one  so  it  is  hard  to  get  up  courage  to  write. 

I  don't  remember  where  I  last  wrote  from,  but  think  it  was 

282 


ENGLAND 

Wells.  From  there  we  went  to  Bath  and  enjoyed  the  quaint 
old  town.  I  took  a  bath  in  the  grand  Pump  Room  built  over 
and  around  the  old  Roman  Baths  and  enjoyed  it,  but  it  made 
me  ache  like  fury  all  night  so  I  couldn't  sleep. 

Frank  decided  he  wanted  to  see  Oxford — so  we  went  there 
Thursday  morning  and  Frank  worked  so  hard  at  the  colleges 
he  couldn't  sleep  all  night  and  made  up  his  mind  that  his 
mind  was  failing  him.  However  he  recovered  enough  to  go 
out  to  Blenheim  the  next  morning. 

I  love  Oxford  and  Frank  was  delighted  with  it,  also  Blen- 
heim was  very  fine,  but  not  at  all  old-fashioned.    The  Duchess 


of  Marlborough  was  not  there,  so  we  got  a  look  at  the  State 

rooms  or  parlors,  rather  small  ones,  but  beautifully  furnished, 

except  the  Library,  which  was  very  large  and  long, — white 

carved  wood  walls  and  ceiling  and  Immense  palms  down  the 

middle  of  the  room,  and  a  fine  organ.    I  took  in  all  the  details 

I  could  but  it  Is  very  hard  to  remember  seeing  so  much. 

That  same  afternoon  we  came  on  to  London.     Frank  had 

written  to  Mr.  Mactear  and  so  after  going  to  the  Bank  we 

found  him  here  and  he  had  arranged  for  us  to  go  to  Earl's 

Court  to  see  the  exhibition  and  dine  with  them  at  the  Welcome 

Club.     The  Gardens  were  illuminated  and  it  was  a  beautiful 

sight.     Mrs.  Mactear  was  very  cordial  and  we  had  another 

guest,  Princess  de  Luslgnan,  an  elderly  stout  woman,  but  who 

283 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

was  very  polite  and  an  interesting  talker.  Air.  M.  in  the  mean- 
time had  arranged  for  a  day  on  the  River,  the  next  day  being 
the  greatest  Sunday  on  the  River. 

They  arranged  with  us  to  meet  them  at   Paddington  at 
10  A.  M.      Imagine  my  surprise  on  arriving  there  to  find  that 


"THAMES  DAY"  IN  THE  LOCK" 


the  whole  world  was  intent  on  the  same  thing.  Shoals  of 
gaily-dressed  women  arrived  in  hansoms  and  private  carriages 
and  hampers  of  all  sizes  and  descriptions.  The  men  in  striped 
flannels  and  women  almost  universally  dressed  in  white  pique 
skirts  and  chiiton  blouses,  any  color  from  lemon  to  black. 
I  have  never  seen  such  a  display  of  color. 

There  we  met  the  Bisphams  and  David  put  his  arm  around 
me  and  seemicd  perfectly  delighted  to  see  us.  We  got  into  the 
train  and  went  as  far  as  Taplow  where  we  drove  to  the  river 
and  went  into  the  grounds  of  a  delightful  small  Hotel  called 
Skindles.  Mrs.  M.  tells  me  this  garden  has  figured  in  many 
plays.  Launches  and  boats  were  fastened  to  the  bank  and  the 
river  was  alive. 


ENGLAND 


Mr.  M.  got  a  lovely  Electric  Launch  and  we  sat  up  in 
delightful  wicker  arm  chairs  and  pretty  soon  got  to  a  lock. 
You  know  the  river  is  only  as  wide  as  a  canal  and  every  little 
distance  the  boats  have  to  go  through  locks  and  the  scene  is 
indescribable.  The  boats  of  all  sizes  blocked  close  together 
and  all  alive  with  people, great  silk  cushions  in  the  most  brilliant 


'•SURLEY  HALL" 


colors  and  added  to  the  gay  costumes  of  the  women  they  made  a 
most  beautiful  sight.  We  passed  Mr.  W.  Waldorf  Astor's  place, 
Cliveden,  going  up,  and  stopped  at  Cookham  for  lunch. 

The  day  was  the  most  perfect  you  can  imagine  and  neither 
hot  nor  cold.  We  had  lunch  in  a  crowded  room  and  gaily 
decked  in  flowers,  as  flowers  are  everywhere  in  masses,  on  the 
boats  and  in  the  gardens  along  shore.  It  was  too  beautiful 
for  w^ords.  Leaving  Cookham  at  once  we  wxnt  further  up 
and  then  turned  down  the  river  and  at  about  6  o'clock  stopped 
at  another  exquisite  place  called  Surley  Hall  for  5  o'clock  Tea. 
Here  we  had  tea  and  cake  and  sandwiches  with  more  crowds 
and  then  down  to  Windsor  where  we  left  the  launch,  not  being 
in  the  least  fatigued,  and  took  the  train  to  Richmond. 

There  we  got  into  a  carriage  after  looking  at  the  Star  and 

285 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Garter,  which  is  no  longer  swell,  and  drove  through  Richmond 
Park  to  Sheen  House,  the  former  residence  of  the  Count  of 
Paris  and  now  turned  into  a  private  Club, 

It  was  elegant  to  a  degree,  beautiful  grounds  and  flowers, 
liveried  servants  and  beautiful  tables.  Here  we  had  a  fine 
dinner  with  champagne.  All  the  tables  were  filled  with  elegant 
people  and  beautiful  with  flowers.  After  dinner  we  adjourned 
into  a  large  room,  sort  of  gallery,  where  a  band  was  playing 
and  people  were  having  coffee  and  smoking.  At  about  ten 
we  took  another  carriage  and  drove  to  town.  There  was  not 
much  Sunday  about  this  you  can  imagine,  but  as  I  had  heard 
and  read  so  much  about  such  experiences  I  felt  that  we  must 
not  miss  it.  Aff.  M.  D.  R. 

T^  T  July  12,  1897,  London,  8.30  P.  M. 

Dear  Laura,  j     ^       ^      yi^  ^     j 

A'lany  thanks  for  your  letters  which  reached  us.  Here  we 
find  the  weather  very  cool  and  wear  quite  warm  clothing. 
Mary  works  like  a  beaver.  The  Mactears  have  been  lavishly 
hospitable  to  us,  so  much  so  I  am  scared  to  know  how  to  re- 
venge myself  for  their  courtesy.  I  am  being  outfitted  and  as 
soon  as  my  clothes  are  ready  we  will  leave  for  the  Continent. 
With  best  love,  Affy,  Frank 

The  Hotel  Metropole,  London, 

T,      T3  July  i^^h,  1897. 

Dear  Boys,  -^     ^ 

Here  we  are  yet,  much  to  my  chagrin,  waiting  for  my 
clothes.  We  hope  to  get  off  Monday  for  the  Continent,  altho 
undecided  to  what  point  we  shall  go.  To-day  I  am  going 
with  Mactear  and  Peggy  to  Henley  to  see  the  rowing  and  to- 
morrow we  take  them  to  the  Opera.  What  with  shopping 
and  sightseeing  we  have  passed  the  time  reasonably  fast,  but 
somehow  I  feel  a  nervous  fatigue  and  will  be  glad  to  get  to 
some  quiet  place.  Last  night  Mr.  Elias*  called  on  us  and  we 
had  a  very  enjoyable  talk  over  old  times.  He  is  very  little 
changed  in  appearance  since  1876  and  hoped  we  would  come 
to  Egypt.    He  spoke  of  you  both  most  feelingly. 

*Mr.  Elias  was  Egyptian  Commissioner  in  1876  at  the  Centennial  Exposition. 

286 


ENGLAND 

Dr.  Messel  took  me  to  his  works  and  I  was  much  impressed 
with  the  way  he  conducts  them. 

The  weather  here  is  like  May  with  us  and  the  sun  shines 
each  day.  We  have  had  no  rain  and  no  fog  and  London  is 
as  clear  as  Philadelphia. 

Your  Mother  begins  to  feel  just  a  little  fatigued  and  I 
fancy  finds  me  a  rather  dull  comrade. 

What  a  great  roaring  bustling  place  London  is!  I  always 
knew  it  was  big  but  never  realized  before  how  immense  it  is! 

I  suppose  the  hot  weather  at  home  has  warned  you  to  get 
in  the  shade  at  some  cool  resort  and  endeavor  to  keep  cool 
and  take  the  world  easy. 

What  our  future  journeys  will  be  I  don't  know  beyond  a 
longer  stay  at  Hombourg  and  a  visit  to  Adelmann.  While 
at  Hombourg  I  hope  to  run  over  to  Wiesbaden,  to  Wurzburg 
and  Tubingen  and  possibly  Munich  to  revisit  my  residences 
in  1867.  I  tried  to  get  passage  by  the  St.  Paul  in  September, 
but  all  good  places  were  taken  and  I  shall  have  to  look  out 
later  and  take  my  chances. 

I  appreciate  now  the  difficulty  of  letter  writing  at  this 
end,  for  it  is  hard  to  collect  one's  thoughts  or  write  anything 
worth  reading.     W^ith  heaps  of  love  to  both  of  you,  I  am, 

Your  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 

The  Hotel  Metropole, 
Dear  Laura,  London,  Saturday,  17th,  1897. 

As  I  did  not  feel  well  enough  to  get  up  early  and  the  shopr 
all  close  at  noon,  I  concluded  not  to  go  out.  We  are  going  to 
the  Opera  to-night  and  will  hear  Eames  in  the  "Nozze  di 
Figaro."  We  take  the  Mactears  with  us  and  will  have  supper 
at  the  Savoy  Restaurant  afterwards.  Frank  went  with  Mr. 
M.  and  his  daughter  to  Henley  Regatta  yesterday  and  got 
back  at  1 1  P.  M.  I  was  alone  and  thought  I  would  accomplish 
some  shopping  but  I  find  I  simply  am  not  equal  to  it. 

There  is  such  a  horrid  smell  of  pitch  from  the  street  pave- 
ments brought  out  by  the  hot  sun  and  the  stores  so  crowded 

287 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  hot  that  I  forget  what  I  came  for  and  feel  my  head  all 
queer.  The  hot  and  stuffy  city  is  no  place  for  me  and  we  both 
feel  anxious  to  get  away,  but  cannot  get  oif  until  Tuesday 
morning  on  account  of  Frank's  clothing. 

The  jewelry  here  is  very  attractive  but  I  don't  want  to 
get  much  before  looking  in  Paris.  Lena  and  Betty  are  visit- 
ing Scotland  near  Aberdeen  and  are  having  a  fine  time.  They 
will  perhaps  join  us  at  Hombourg.  We  had  the  pleasure  of  one 
hour  with  Elias  night  before  last.  He  had  written  to  Ilfracombe 
to  tell  us  he  had  delayed  starting  for  Scotland  asking  for  our 


■^. 


HEXLEY  REGATTA 

address  and  he  only  got  it  last  night.  Then  he  wrote  again  to 
the  Banker  saying  he  would  leave  Friday  and  could  he  see  us 
and  I  sent  a  messenger  boy  at  once.  He  looks  the  same  as  ever, 
perhaps  a  little  older,  and  said  it  w^as  the  first  time  he  had 
laughed  since  he  came  to  London,  and  w^e  all  regretted  this 
whole  week  we  might  have  been  going  about  together. 

I  had  begged  Frank  to  see  him  when  we  first  came,  but  he 
said  Oh !  of  course  he  was  gone.     I  took  a  cab  in  the  afternoon  to 


ENGLAND 

return  the  Bisphams  call,  as  it  was  their  day  at  home,  and 
found  they  had  gone  to  the  Regatta.  I  almost  fainted  with 
the  heat  and  the  sun  in  my  eyes  all  the  way.  I  saw  plenty 
of  fine  carriages  and  a  great  show  of  color,  but  very  few  pretty 
wbmen  or  toilets.  I  bought  some  beautiful  photographs  so 
I  shall  have  an  album  of  English  Cathedrals  and  of  the  West 
Coast.  After  I  got  back  I  sat  until  7.30  in  the  square  hall 
watching  the  people  arrive  and  go  out  for  dinner.  All  the 
women  in  low  necked  dresses  and  entire  arm  exposed.  An 
Indian  Prince  is  in  the  hotel,  is  very  tall  with  big  beard  and 
an  immense  turban  with  tails  hanging  down  from  it,  long 
lanky  legs  with  skin  tight  trousers  of  ordinary  tan  mixture 
and  a  coat  of  same  with  tight  belt  and  funny  pointed  shoes. 

Then  I  saw  another  immense  man  in  full  uniform,  some 
Oriental  who  was  going  out  to  dinner,  but  as  he  wore  a  black 
ulster  all  over  him  I  couldn't  see  much.  The  swellest-looking 
man  had  one  man  and  three  ladies  to  dinner  and  all  fine  look- 
ing. There  are  more  English  here  than  Americans  and  some 
of  the  worst  frights  I  have  ever  seen  in  my  life. 

I  saw  the  Parisian  Diamond  store  where  the  things  were 
perfectly  beautiful,  but  almost  as  dear  as  the  real.  A  hair 
ornament  mounted  on  shell  hair  pin  from  50  to  100  dollars, 
but  the  buckles  were  exquisite  for  ^15  to  ^20  and  a  turtle  of 
green  stones  and  brilliants,  20  or  25  dollars.  I  thought  best 
to  see  what  the  French  prices  were,  as  if  I  come  back  here  I 
can  get  things  then.  I  think  I  like  the  Liberty  jewelry  which 
is  curious  and  real  of  its  kind. 

I  am  disappointed  at  not  being  able  to  go  about  more  and 
expect  it  will  be  the  same  in  Paris.  While  I  was  on  the  west 
coast  in  the  fresh  bracing  air  I  could  do  so  much,  and  then  the 
nights  were  quiet  and  restful,  but  here  the  bad  air  and  noise 
affect  my  head  and  I  just  have  to  leave  the  shops  after  an  hour 
or  more.  The  thing  we  have  enjoyed  most  was  a  ride  on  top 
of  an  omnibus  which  we  took  unexpectedly  down  the  Strand, 
Chancery  Lane,  past  Lincoln  Inn  and  High  Holborn  with  one 
block  of  old  timbered  houses,  one  of  the  last  bits  of  old  Lon- 
19  289 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

don,  through  IsHnglon  and  the  Angel  Inn  and  the  house  where 
Sir  Walter  Raleigh  lived,  which  was  told  us  by  the  bus  driver. 
The  old  furniture  and  silver  almost  drive  me  wild  and  to 
feel  that  I  cannot  get  to  them,  ior  everything  is  so  scattered 
that  you  cannot  get  about  unless  you  have  weeks.  I  ha'C^e 
about  made  up  my  mind  that  no  one  must  expect  anything  of 
me,  that  I  cannot  travel  and  shop  too,  it  is  too  much  effort.     I 


ox  THE  OMNIBUS,  LONDON 


can't  seem  to  decide  on  things  and  my  only  way  is  to  go  to 
one  place  and  let  them  furnish  everything.  I  worry  and  stew 
to  try  and  get  the  right  thing  and  it  isn't  worth  while. 

We  went  to  see  Irving  and  Terry  Wednesday  night.  Terry 
was  sick  but  the  woman  who  took  her  place  was  fine,  and  it 
didn't  seem  it  could  be  better  played.  The  play  was  fine  but 
the  audience  was  ugly  and  the  house  dark  and  gloomy,  and 
you  pay  3^  dollars  for  what  you  pay  i>^  or  2  at  home.  No 
wonder  for  the  theatres  are  so  small.  I  must  stop,  it  is  going 
to  rain  and  I  hear  that  the  weather  will  change  and  only  hope 
for  decent  weather  to  cross  the  channel.     Love  to  all, 

AflFy.,  M.  D.  R. 


2go 


ENGLAND 

The  Hotel  Metropole, 
My  Dear  Boys,  London,  Sunday,  July  i8,  1897. 

Here  we  are  still  and  with  little  hope  of  getting  away  be- 
fore Tuesday  and  then  only  if  your  Mother  gets  over  one  of 
her  headaches.  She  wants  to  go  on,  is  thoroughly  sated  with 
London  and  its  extravagant  prices.  The  weather  is  lovely. 
The  present  intention  is  to  go  to  Ostend,  Bruges,  Liege,  Brus- 
sels, Cologne  and  on  to  Hombourg,  where  we  hope  to  be  about 


HENLEY  REGATTA 

the  25th  or  27th  of  July  and  stay  a  couple  of  weeks.  We  thus 
avoid  Paris  and  will  have  to  let  our  mail  be  sent  after  us. 

I  can  only  pray  that  all  goes  well  with  you  at  home.  We 
read  of  the  hot  wave  and  wondered  what  you  did  to  keep 
comfortable. 

I  wrote  you  of  my  invitation  to  Henley.  Mactear  and 
Daughter  took  me,  but  your  Mother  had  a  lonely  day  at  the 
hotel.  At  Henley  we  were  entertained  by  a  Mr.  Jamison, 
who  had  rented  a  house  for  the  week  and  knew  everything  of 
interest  and  piloted  us  about.  The  day  was  warm  for  here 
but  this  did  not  prevent  myriads  of  well-dressed  people  being 
there  in  boats  of  every  description.    We  were  in  a  punt,  a  sort  of 

291 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

flat-bottomed  scow,  with  comfortable  seats  on  the  bottom  and 
quantities  of  cushions  and  propelled  either  by  paddles  or  a  pole. 

The  river  was  fairly  jammed  full  of  boats,  in  fact  one  could 
step  from  boat  to  boat  for  a  mile.  The  boats  kept  jamming 
each  other,  but  everybody  was  most  good  natured  and  little 
interest  taken  in  the  racing.  When  a  race  was  on  the  police 
boats  warned  people  to  get  out  of  the  track  and  every  one  did 
so  with  avidity.  It  was  a  marvelous  kaleidoscopic  picture 
of  bright  colors  with  beautiful  faces  and  handsome  men  in 
boating  clothes.  At  night  there  was  an  illumination  and  fire- 
works but  I  did  not  stay,  not  wishing  to  leave  your  Mother 
alone.  I  took  a  lot  of  Photos  and  hope  to  be  able  to  show  you 
the  nature  of  the  event. 

Yesterday  was  a  sort  of  "dies  non."  Banker,  Tailor  and 
Hotel  and  trying  to  make  up  our  minds  for  the  journey  to  the 
continent.  At  night  we  took  the  Mactears  to  the  Opera,  a 
rather  formidable  undertaking  here,  and  then  to  late  supper 
at  the  Savoy. 

One-third  of  our  time  Is  up  and  I  have  as  yet  not  been  able 
to  get  my  return  passage  by  the  American  Line.  I  think  it 
very  possible  we  may  come  back  via  Havre,  either  by  a  North 
German  or  French  Liner.    With  love  from  both  of  us, 

AflFy.,  F.  H.  R. 

Hotel  Metropole, 
London,  July  20th,  1897. 
Dear  Boys,  Tuesday. 

Here  we  are  starting  for  Paris.  Your  Mother  gave  up 
going  to  Belgium,  so  we  hope  to  get  away  this  morning  to 
France.  I  am  not  a  bit  sorry  to  get  out  of  London,  it  Is  such 
a  big  noisy,  busy  place,  and  one  feels  lost.  The  weather  Is 
cool  compared  to  Philadelphia  and  to-day  is  overcast  and  no 
wind,  so  I  hope  we  shall  have  a  nice  run  over  the  Channel 
and  on  to  Paris.  I  will  cable  you  from  Paris,  probably.  So 
with  best  love  and  wishes  to  you. 

As  ever  Your  Affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 


FRANCE 

Paris,  July  2ist,  1897. 
Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  at  last,  glad  to  be  out  of  England  and  delighted 
with  our  first  impressions  of  Paris  and  I  have  just  received 


CROSSING  FROM  FOLKESTONE  TO  BOULOGNE 

your  batch  of  letters  sent  to  Paris,     Of  course  we  are  greatly 
satisfied  to  know  of  your  welfare  and  contentment. 

We  crossed  yesterday  from  Folkestone  to  Boulogne  and  the 

Channel  was  as  smooth  as  glass  and  the  weather  charming. 

293 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  found  good  rooms  at  the  Hotel  Norniandle  and  splendid 
food.  You  can  imagine  your  Mother's  delight  at  finding  Mrs. 
W.  at  the  Hotel  Jardin,  opposite  the  Gardens  of  the  Louvre. 
We  sat  out  on  the  balcony  of  the  top  story  there  with  the 
beautiful  vista  in  front  and  it  was  simply  delicious  after  the 
noise  of  London. 

We  have  met  quite  a  number  of  acquaintances  already 
and  shall  be  contented  here  for  the  week  we  remain.  Next 
week  we  go  on  to  Hombourg  and  remain  there  for  two  or  three 
weeks  and  hope  to  get  a  visit  to  Count  Adelmann. 

Paris  is  simply  delicious  after  the  existence  in  England, 
there  the  food  was  tedious  and  expensive  and  people  stiifer 
than  ramrods,  but  it  was  interesting.  Here  everyone  seems 
good  natured  and  the  streets  and  buildings  are  an  unending 
pleasure. 

Affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

The  Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  25  de  Juillet,  1897. 
My  Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  in  Paris  still  but  are  going  to-day  to  Brussels 
en  route  to  Hombourg.  It  is  pretty  hot  to-day  but  not  un- 
bearable, and  I  fear  we  shall  hardly  find  ourselves  as  comfort- 
able elsewhere.  This  Hotel  is  very  quiet  but  well  kept  with 
good  attendance  and.  dainty  food.  We  got  here  Tuesday, 
dined  and  strolled  out  to  the  Jardin  des  Tuilleries.  Your 
Mother  thought  of  Mrs.  W.,  inquired  at  her  Hotel  and  found 
to  her  delight  she  was  not  only  in  Paris  but  in  her  apartment, 
so  up  we  went  to  the  top  of  one  of  those  big  houses  facing  the 
Tuilleries  gardens,  to  find  a  warm  reception  and  such  a  beau- 
tiful view. 

Your  Mother  has  therefore  been  very  happy  with  Mrs.  W., 

and  I  have  wandered  around  pretty  much  alone.     Thursday 

I  went  out  to  Versailles  and  found  old  Mr.  Mourge  (90  years 

old!)  and   Mr.   Alfred   Durand,  and   they   gave  me   a   warm 

reception,   Mourge   kissing   me   on   both    cheeks.      It   was   a 

294 


FRANCE 

most  delightful  glimpse  of  real  French  existence,  a  droll  sort  of 
house  with  beautiful  garden  filled  with  blooming  flowers.  Old 
Mourge  was  deaf  as  a  post  so  to  amuse  me  he  got  a  whistle 
and  some  bread  crumbs  and  when  he  blew  his  whistle  myriads 
of  sparrows  came  and  crowded  around  him.  It  was  a  picture 
indeed.  I  fired  off  a  plate  at  him  but  don't  know  if  I  will  get 
anything. 

Yesterday  your  Mother  and  I  had  our  star  excursion  to 
Fontainebleau  and  Barbizon,  and  while  the  weather  was  hot 


FONTAINEBLEAU:  THL 


L      inc     low  .\    AND  THE  FOREST 


we  enjoyed  the  trip  greatly.  The  Palace  is  marvelously  pre- 
served. The  park  covers  35,000  acres,  and  as  well  kept  as  a 
garden.  Barbizon  is  where  quantities  of  painters  have  their 
places  and  make  sketches. 

We  drove  for  hours  through  the  forest  and  saw  the  trees 
by  all  lights  and  now  shall  have  a  more  tender  appreciation 
of  the  pictures  of  the  Barbizon  school. 

To-day  we  are  off  to  Brussels,  finding  the  journey  to  Frank- 
fort and  Hombourg  no  longer  than  by  Strasbourg  and  giving 
us  a  chance  to  see  Belgium,  Cologne  and  the  Rhine.     We  will 

295 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

arrive  in  Hombourg  on  Wednesday  and  remain  there,  your 
Mother  thinks,  two  or  three  weeks.  I  have  written  Count 
Adelmann  but  thus  far  have  no  response,  if  I  don't  hear  soon 
I  will  write  to  him  again  for  I  know  he  wants  us  to  visit  him. 

We  expect  to  meet  all  our  folks  later  on  in  Hombourg  and 
hope  to  hear  they  are  having  an  enjoyable  time. 

Now  to  the  most  important  thing.  We  took  passage  yes- 
terday on  the  "Iburaine,"  the  finest  of  the  French  Line,  for 
September  215th  for  New  York,  so  you  will  not  see  us  before 
the  first  of  October.  Your  Mother  did  not  want  to  travel 
back  to  London  and  Southampton  and  so  I  had  to  give  up 
my  hope  of  going  home  on  the  St.  Paul,  as  we  had  come. 

Your  Mother  unloads  trunks  and  then  has  to  spend  hours 
packing  them  again. 

As  ever  yr.  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 


GERMANY 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

Wednesday,  July  28th,  1897. 
My  Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  at  last,  just  this  moment  arrived  and  sorry 
not  to  have  any  mail.     We  left  Paris  on  Sunday  and  stayed 


HOTEL  VICTORIA,  HOMBOURG  (ON  THE  LEFT) 

in  Brussels  until  yesterday  morning  and  then  came  on  to 
Cologne  and  spent  last  night  there,  meeting  young  Charles 
Harrison.  This  morning  it  rained  hard  while  we  were  in  the 
train  coming  up  the  Rhine  to  Frankfort  and  here. 

We  had  a  scare  at  Frankfort.     Our  luggage  was  checked 

297 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

to  Nuremberg  by  mistake  and  somebody  else's  checked  for 
Frankfort  instead  of  ours.  By  the  best  of  hick  the  porter  we 
took  tracked  ours  up  and  by  dint  of  hard  running  I  succeeded 
in  inducing  the  baggage  man  on  the  train  to  Nuremberg  to 
let  me  haul  ours  out  just  as  the  train  was  leaving  Frankfort. 
You  can  imagine  your  mother's  discomfort  for  the  time,  and 
what  she  would  have  thought  had  it  gone  on. 

My  impressions  of  Germany  have  vanished  in  the  immense 
changes  everywhere  apparent.     I  hope  I  shall  like  Hombourg. 

Your  Mother  seems  bent  on  remaining  here  two  or  three 
weeks  and  we  hope  soon  to  have  the  other  members  of  the 
family  with  us.  Your  Mother,  no  doubt,  will  write  you  par- 
ticulars of  our  doings  and  I  shall  write  too,  as  soon  as  I  am 
settled  and  cleaned  up.  So  with  best  love  and  best  wishes 
from  both  of  us. 

Believe  me  your  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel, 
Hombourg,  July  30th,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

We  have  just  come  back  from  our  first  morning  walk  and 
drink  at  the  Springs,  have  had  our  breakfast  and  I  have  time 
to  write  before  my  bath.  It  was  lovely  at  the  Springs,  sweet 
with  new  mown  hay  and  flowers  and  gay  music,  but  it  lacks 
the  festive  appearance  it  had  before  when  the  Prince  of  Wales 
was  here.  I  believe  I  have  not  written  you  since  the  first 
night  in  Paris.  I  went  to  Paquin  and  Doucet.  Of  course  the 
new  models  were  not  in.  We  drove  in  the  Champs  Elysees 
and  Bois,  then  F.  and  I  went  to  the  Marlngny  and  saw  a 
beautiful  ballet.    The  whole  Chinese  legation  was  there. 

Then  we  spent  a  day  at  Fontainebleau,  first  the  Chateau, 
which  is  perfectly  beautiful,  and  in  Marie  Antoinette's  finest 
room  I  found  my  parlor  side  gas  fixtures,  much  to  my  delight. 
Then  we  drove  through  the  Forest,  saw  the  Gorge  Franchard 
which  is  really  remarkable,  and  the  great  trees  Jupiter  and 

Pharamond,  then  to  the  Gorge  Apremont,  caused  by  some 

298 


GERA4ANY 

terrible  cataclysm  thousands  of  years  ago,  and  dined  at  Bar- 
bizon,  identified  as  the  origin  of  the  Barbizon  school  of  paint- 
ing, an  ideal  spot  on  the  edge  of  the  Forest,  then  we  drove 
back  in  the  twilight  and  took  train  to  town  and  rode  back  on 
top  of  an  omnibus  in  Paris  down  the  Rue  Rivoli  and  a  man 
who  said  he  was  a  cook  explained  everything  we  passed, 
through  the  very  heart  of  old  Paris. 

We   left   in  the   afternoon  of    the    next  day   for   Brussels 
Hotel  Bellevue,   superb,  and  found   Bellamy   Storer  had  left 


THEATRE  MARIGNY,  AVENUE  BOIS  DE  BOULOGNE,  PARIS 

that  very  morning  for  Spa. ;  we  were  so  sorry  to  miss  him.  That 
evening  we  went  out  through  a  beautiful  park  back  of  the 
Hotel  to  the  Ministry  of  Finance,  &c.,  a  palace  all  illuminated 
and  the  whole  city  was  illuminated,  and  took  a  trolley  out 
to  the  Exposition,  which  entered  the  grounds  and  made  a 
circuit  showing  everything.  The  next  day  we  spent  the  morn- 
ing in  a  carriage  seeing  the  town.  The  old  part  is  so  interesting 
and  the  new  part  most  impressive — it  is  certainly  a  beautiful 
place  and  puts  our  towns  to  shame.  In  the  afternoon  we  went 
out  to  the  Fair,  but  were  not  impressed  as  after  Chicago  such 

a  thing  seems  tame. 

299 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


FONTAINEBLEAU 


DOOR  AT  FONTAINEBLEAU 


300 


GERAIANY 

We  left  the  next  morning  for  Cologne.  Met  delightful 
English  women  on  the  train  who  raved  over  David  Bispham 
and  Emma  Eames,  but  we  didn't  find  out  their  names. 

We  spent  the  late  afternoon  looking  at  the  Cathedral. 
They  have  had  the  good  sense  to  preserve  the  old  Roman  re- 
mains and  the  city  gates  with  their  beautiful  pointed  towers 
though  they  have  torn  down  many  of  the  old  streets.  After 
dinner  we  went  in  a  boat  on  the  river  to  a  beer  garden, 
where  there  was  music  and  from  the   river  the   Cathedral   is 


BARBIZON 


overwhelming,  it  seems  suspended  in  the  air.     It  is  the  most 

graceful   thing   in   the   world.      Its  wonderful  size  cannot  be 

appreciated  any  more  than  Niagara. 

From  Cologne,  where  it  rained  hard  in  the  night,  we  came 

on  to  Frankfort,  following  the  Rhine  closely,  and  it  seemed 

more  beautiful  than  ever.     If  I  live  and  can  ride  I  want  to 

bring  my  wheel  over  here  and  ride  on  that  perfect  and  level 

road  along  the  Rhine  from  Coblentz  to  Rudesheim;  perfectly 

level  with  those  enchanting  hills  and  castles  and  ruins  always 

in  view  and  fascinating  and  quaint  old  towns  whenever  you 

want  to  stop. 

301 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  arrived  here  at  3.30  and  found  a  lovely  room  with  bal- 
cony on  the  Garden.  The  Hotel  has  changed  hands  and  they 
have  enclosed  part  of  the  garden  into  an  eating  place,  so  you 
can  no  longer  eat  in  the  garden  and  it  is  not  half  as  gay.  Mrs. 
Learning  danced  a  great  deal.  She  is  just  my  age  and  looked 
so  young  and  slender  and  perfectly  beautiful.  There  wasn't 
any  one  to  compare  with  her. 

We  shall  go  from  here  to  Sigmaringen  to  see  the  Adelmanns. 

With  love  to  all  and  hoping  to  hear  from  you  soon,  as  we 
have  had  nothing  for  a  week,  Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

Monday,  Aug.  2nd,  1897. 
Dear  Cliff, 

Your  welcome  letter  of  the  20th  ult.  from  Biddeford  Pool 
came  and  gave  us  much  pleasure.    We  are  glad  you  have  left 


FRESE.XIUS  LABORATORY,  WIESBADEX 

hot  Philadelphia  for  the  cool  breezes  of  New  England.     I  am 

glad  to  know  you  have  attended  carefully  to  my  business 

matters  and  paid  the  servants. 

302 


.      GERMANY 

We  are  now  in  our  6th  day  here  and  must  remain  eight 
days  longer  if  your  Mother  persists  in  taking  the  baths,  etc. 
This  Hotel  is  crowded  with  English  people,  few  Americans. 

Saturday  I  took  a  run  to  Wiesbaden  and  had  a  hearty 
reception  from  the  sons  of  Prof.  Fresenius,  drove  all  over  the 
town  and  enjoyed  it  all,  but  it  is  immensely  changed  since 
my  time  there  in  1867. 

Yesterday  we  had  a  quiet  day  of  it  and  this  morning  as 
usual  went  bright  and  early  to  drink  the  waters  and  at  11 
both  of  us  took  the  baths. 

We  have  had  two  pressing  letters  from  the  Adelmanns  ask- 
ing us  to  come  there  and  I  am  impatient  to  get  there.  Your 
Mother  paid  another  visit  to  the  Doctor  and  now  he  orders 
her  to  take  the  water  in  her  bed  instead  of  the  pleasant  walk 
to  the  Springs.  My  idea  is  she  would  be  much  better  off  to 
let  the  water  alone  but  she  cannot  be  convinced  of  that. 


I  fancy  Hombourg  is  a  good  deal  as  you  remember  it  and 
the  weather  is  charmingly  clear  and  cool.  We  have  just  come 
back  from  the  drive  to  the  Tannen  Baiime,  where  your  Mother 

303 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

says  you  once  drove  with  her.  It  certainly  is  a  drive  typically 
German  in  character. 

On  the  4th  of  September  the  Emperor  is  to  have  a  great 
review  of  40,000  soldiers  here,  so  the  authorities  are  cleaning 
up  the  roads  and  woods  and  with  the  splendid  crops  now  being 
gathered  the  country  is  most  interesting.  Your  Mother  is 
always  planning  and  attempting  but  her  strength  soon  gives 
out  and  she  easily  becomes  fatigued. 

We  expect  now  to  come  home  on  the  French  Steamer 
Touraine  from  Havre,  sailing  on  the  25th  of  September,  and 
with  good  luck  should  reach  New  York  about  the  2nd  or 
3rd  of  October.  Your  Mother  joins  me  in  best  love  to  you  both. 

Affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

Monday,  August  2nd,  1897. 
Dear  Sam, 

Thanks  for  your  letter  of  the  i8th  of  July  telling  us  of  the 
delightful  weather  in  Jamestown. 

We  have  been  here  in  Hombourg  since  last  Wednesday 
afternoon  and  your  Mother  is  drinking  the  waters  and  taking 
the  baths.  She  seems  to  enjoy  it  all  very  much  and  I  hope 
will  be  greatly  benefited.  I  ran  off  last  Saturday  for  a  visit 
to  Wiesbaden,  my  old  stamping  ground,  and  had  an  enjoyable 
time  there,  though  I  was  quite  alone  and  no  one  to  talk  to. 

To-day  we  took  a  beautiful  drive  through  the  forest  and 
enjoyed  it  greatly.  We  usually  take  breakfast  and  lunch  at 
the  Hotel  and  wander  for  dinner.  Last  Friday  we  dined  at 
the  Kursaal  and  saw  beautiful  fireworks  and  illuminations. 
You  would  be  interested  to  see  the  life  here,  lots  of  tennis, 
golf,  etc.,  but  few  young  folks,  mostly  dried  up  English  tabbies 
who  come  for  the  waters. 

We  have  had  two  letters  from  the  Adelmanns  who  are  an- 
ticipating our  visit,  but  your  Mother  insists  on  remaining 
here  until  her  24  days  are  up  and  I  must  abide  by  it,  though 
I  would  greatly  prefer  to  go  on.     We  shall  probably  be  in 

304 


GERMANY 

Paris  by  the  5th  of  September  and  remain  there  until  the  23rd 
and  then  go  on  to  Havre  for  a  day  or  two  to  see  the  Thackaras, 
and  sail  on  the  25th  of  September. 

Affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

Friday,  Aug.  6th,  1897. 
Dear  Sam, 

Here  we  are  still,  your  mother  insisting  on  taking  the  baths 
and  drinking  the  water  and  enjoying  glimpses  of  the  fine  folks 
who  crowd  the  Hotels  and  Casino.  We  have  quite  a  Phila- 
delphia colony  and  last  night  ten  of  us  dined  together  at  the 
Kursaal.  After  the  dinner  all  hands  went  to  the  dance  in  the 
Ball  room,  even  your  Mother  taking  a  dance.  Your  Mother 
took  a  walk  this  morning  with  Mrs.  Geo.  W.  Childs,  and  they 
are  becoming  quite  chummy. 

I  fancy  you  would  hardly  enjoy  the  place,  although  the 
gardens  and  park  are  beautiful  and  the  surrounding  moun- 
tains most  romantic.  We  drove  the  other  day  to  the  Roman 
Camp  on  top  of  one  of  the  mountains,  the  Saalburg,  where  the 
Romans  camped  for  200  years,  and  I  got  a  fragment  of  a  vase 
that  a  man  dug  up  in  our  presence.  The  Camp  has  been 
studied  and  partly  restored  and  the  statues  and  bronzes  that 
were  excavated  are  in  a  museum  here.  The  weather  is  too 
warm  to  take  much  exercise  by  day  time  but  the  nights  are 
very  pleasant  and  we  sit  out  till  late  and  sleep  like  tops. 

Your  Mother  became  so  weary  by  early  rising  and  the 
walk  to  the  Springs  that  the  Doctor  told  her  to  take  the  waters 
in  bed,  which  suits  her  much  better.  We  hope  to  get  off  next 
week,  at  least  I  do,  to  visit  the  Adelmanns  and  I  look  to  that 
visit  as  the  most  enjoyable  of  our  experiences. 

Your  letters  give  us  much  pleasure. 

I  hope  to  hear  you  joined  the  Yacht  Club  cruise  either  at 
New  Haven  or  New  London  and  sailed  with  them  to  New- 
port. However,  you  no  doubt  consulted  your  own  comfort 
in  the  matter.  Affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

20  305 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Hombourg,  Hotel  Victoria, 

Aug.  6th,  1897. 
Dear  Laura  and  Sam, 

I  don't  seem  to  be  able  to  write  more  than  once  a  week, 
what  with  drinking  the  waters  and  taking  baths  and  eating 
and  resting.  The  first  few  days  I  went  to  the  Springs  and  took 
the  water  before  breakfast,  being  away  an  hour,  and  I£felt 
so  exhausted  that  I  went  to  the  Doctor  and  he  said  it  would 


"THE  SCHLOSS,"  HOMBOURG 

never  do,  that  my  pulse  was  very  feeble  and  to  have  the  water 

sent  up  and  take  the  3  glasses  before  getting  up.     So  now  I 

feel  better  and  spend  the  rest  of  the  morning  until  I  go  to  my 

bath,  walking  about. 

Frank  went  to  Wiesbaden   Saturday  to  see  the  Fresenius' 

and  didn't  get  back  until  bedtime.     I  saw  him  speak  to  some 

familiar-looking   people    and    it    was  Cynthia  Yeatman  and 

her  aunt.      She  had  lots  to  tell  about  Hugh    Campbell  and 

it  seems  Mrs.  Mackay  was  at  the  same  Hotel,   but  left  sud- 

306 


GERMANY 

denly,  as  my  Doctor  Noeber  found  she  had  something  which 
required  operating. 

Sunday  we  attended  church  service  in  the  old  Schloss 
(where  the  Empress  Frederick  used  to  Hve)  and  now  is  being 
renovated  for  the  Emperor.  We  were  about  the  last  people 
admitted  to  the  State  Rooms. 

There  is  to  be  a  great  review  here  in  September.  Miss 
Yeatman  is  coming  back  for  it,  but  Frank  doesn't  seem  to 
care  about  it.  We  dined  on  the  Kurhaus  Terrace  last  night 
and  went  into  the  Hop  and  I  danced.  There  was  a  private 
ball  upstairs  Tuesday.  People  arriving  every  day  and  the 
place  is  full.  I  love  the  old  town,  care  nothing  for  the  fashion- 
able side  of  it. 

The  castle  garden  is  beautiful  and  I  have  been  there  every 
morning.  We  dined  here  last  evening  as  it  poured  rain  until 
late  and  then  went  up  to  the  Kurhaus  and  sat  on  the  Terrace. 
On  Friday  nights  there  are  two  bands,  one  military  at  one 
side  and  the  regular  orchestra  at  the  other,  and  the  fountain 
illuminated.  It  is  now  crowded  here  and  I  don't  know  what 
it  will  be  when  the  Prince  of  Wales  comes. 

We  are  thinking  of  going,  after  we  leave  the  Adelmanns, 
into  France  instead  of  Switzerland,  into  the  Vosges  Mts.  It 
seems  more  sensible  instead  of  going  so  far  away  as  Munich 
and  Innsbruck  to  keep  in  the  direction  of  Paris — besides 
going  to  new  scenes  where  the  whole  world  doesn't  go.  The)^  say 
Switzerland  is  just  filled  with  Americans  and  as  I  have  been 
there  so  many  times  it  would  be  nice  to  see  something  new. 

We  shall  probably  be  in  Paris  from  Sept.  5th  to  23  rd  and 
go  on  to  Havre  stopping  at  Rouen  for  a  day.  We  left  our 
trunks  at  the  Normandy  so  as  to  go  back  there  and  it  was  the 
easiest  way  to  manage.  It  is  such  a  relief  not  to  have  to  go 
to  London  and  then  to  Southampton  or  Liverpool.  Then  we 
shall  be  in  New  York  the  next  Saturday  morning  and  perhaps 
Friday  night,  according  to  the  weather. 

Love  to  all. 

Aifectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

307 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

August  7th,  1897. 
Dear  Cliff, 

Doubtless  \'ou  are  still  at  North  East  Harbor  enjoying 
the  fresh  sea  breezes  and  having  a  good  time.  Here  we  have 
quite  a  colony  of  Philadelphians. 

Your  Mother  seems  perfectly  contented  here. 

Owing  to  the  scare  here  over  the  miseries  of  the  new  Tariff 
law  I  shall  make  few  or  no  purchases  on  this  side  and  prefer 
to  give  you  something  when  I  get  back  to  suit  you. 

We  hope  to  get  off  to  the  Adelmanns  at  the  end  of  next 
week,  although  your  Mother  is  quite  desirous  to  remain  here. 
I  cannot  stand  this  kind  of  a  loafing  existence,  especially  as  I 
must  always  be  within  hailing  distance  of  your  Mother. 

We  both  keep  wonderfully  well,  go  to  bed  early  and  get 
up  late  and  cannot  eat  the  greasy  food  here,  so  I  fancy  this 
may  account  for  our  good  condition. 

We  are  always  thinking  of  you  and  Sam  and  hoping  you 
are  enjoying  good  health,  good  company,  and  having  lots 
of  fun  before  starting  in  on  serious  work  at  the  law.  W  ith 
our  best  love  and  my  tender  expression  of  regard, 

Affy.,  F.  H.  R. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

Tuesday,  Aug.  9th,  1897. 
Dear  Clifford  and  Sam, 

Your  Mother  keeps  well  and  just  as  contented  as  ever 
with  this  place.  We  have  had  a  couple  of  days  of  rainy  weather 
and  the  hours  seemed  like  days  to  me. 

Last  night  Uncle  Joe  and  Aunt  Fanny  arrived  from  Ham- 
burg, so  we  now  have  quite  a  colony.  Lina  and  Betty  are  at 
Riechelmann's,  Uncle  Joe  at  Ritter's  Hotel  and  we  are  here, 
so  I  fancy  we  will  berunningaftereach  other  pretty  constantly. 
Our  plans  are,  as  far  as  we  are  able  to  make  plans,  to  go 
to  Adelmann  the  end  of  this  week  via  the  Black  Forest,  partly 

by  train  and  partly  by  Coach,  the  young  Count  to  meet  us 

308 


GERMANY 

part  way  and  act  as  guide.  How  long  we  remain  in  Sigmarin- 
gen  I  don't  know,  but  I  do  hope  four  or  five  days,  and  thence 
either  to  Switzerland  and  eventually  to  the  Vosges  Moun- 
tains in  Eastern  France  and  gradually  back  to  Paris  where 
we  are  to  be  about  the  5th  of  September  at  the  Hotel 
Normandy. 

I  fancy  by  the  time  this  reaches  Philadelphia  you  will 
have  returned  from  North  East  Harbor  after  an  enjoyable 
stop  there.  If  the  weather  is  very  hot  in  town  you  would  do 
well  to  take  a  room  at  Devon  Inn  or  some  surburban  place 
where  you  would  have  nice  company  and  plenty  of  golf.  This 
would  make  time  pass  agreeably  to  you. 

Sam  didn't  go  to  meet  the  Corinthian  Yacht  Club  and  gave 
as  a  reason  the  prevalence  of  a  heavy  Nor'easter!  I  do 
hope  the  cruise  was  a  success,  for  all  hands  had  taken  so  much 
trouble  to  make  it  a  success. 

Your  Mother  sends,  with  me,  love  and  tender  remem- 
brances and  wishes  for  your  happiness 

As  ever,  affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

Hombourg,  Aug.  nth,  1897. 
Dear  Clifford, 

Just  five  years  ago  (1892)  since  we  were  here  together, 
and  every  day  I  think  how  much  more  you  would  have  en- 
joyed it  this  time.  We  dine  very  often  at  the  Kurhaus  and  at 
present  it  is  crowded  there  every  night.  Yesterday  afternoon 
Lina  and  Betty,  Fanny  and  Evelyn  Howell  and  her  two  uncles 
started  on  bicycles  for  the  Tannenwald.  Your  Uncle  Joe, 
Aunt  Fanny,  your  Father  and  myself  in  a  carriage.  We  went 
ahead  and  stopped  at  the  first  turn  and  then  drove  back  to 
find  them.  The  two  uncles  had  turned  back  in  despair  as  their 
bicycles  were  too  low  for  them,  little  Fanny  went  all  the  way 
back  and  changed  hers.  Evelyn  Howell  came  to  grief  with 
her  dress,  which  had  white  silk  rufiles  inside  and  she  tore 
them  out  and  left  them  along  the  road.  Betty  and  Fanny  got 
lost  and  went  to  the  little  Tannenwald.     After  we  had  been 

309 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

there  more  than  half  an  hour  Lina  and  Evelyn  arrived  blow- 
ing and  puffing,  and  a  quarter  of  an  hour  later  Betty  and 
Fanny.    We  had  more  fun  than  enough. 

\\  hen  we  got  to  the  Yagd  house  the  gardens  were  full 
of  people  taking  coffee.  The  others  came  straight  home  down 
hill.  Betty  and  Fanny  collided  and  fell  in  a  gutter,  but 
otherwise  unhurt.  Then  we  drove  through  the  Pines  and 
made  a  circle  and  came  back  in  a  different  way,  a  beautiful 
drive.  I  was  dying  to  go  on  a  wheel,  but  they  are  heavy  and 
it  was  up  hill,  and  the  water  is  playing  havoc  with  me  so  I 
thought  it  best  not  to  go. 

We  are  now  corresponding  vigorously  with  the  Adelmanns 
and  have  about  decided  to  leave  here  Saturday,  14th,  and 
arrive  at  Triberg  that  night,  leave  there  the  next  afternoon 
and  arrive  that  eve  at  Sigmaringen.  We  expect  to  drive 
from  Hausach  to  Triberg.  From  Sigmaringen  we  have  no  plans. 
But  your  Father  says  he  wants  to  go  to  Munich,  so  if  we  go 
there  I  think  we  will  probably  go  on  to  Innsbruck  and  drive 
to  Cortina  and  some  of  the  places  near  by. 

I  suppose  you  know  we  have  taken  staterooms  on  the 
Touraine  25th  of  Sept.,  and  will  sail  from  Havre,  stopping  at 
Rouen  over  one  night.  We  expect  to  be  in  Paris  the  4th  of 
Sept.,  so  we  will  have  almost  3  weeks  in  Paris.  I  bought  heavy 
silk  stockings  for  you  and  Sam  in  London  and  paid  over  $z 
a  pair  for  them,  so  you  see  they  were  not  cheap.  I  shall  bring 
you  both  a  toilet  set  of  ebony  with  silver  initials  and  I  am 
afraid  that  must  be  all. 

Of  course  as  I  am  here,  on  this  side  of  the  water,  I  would 
rather  stay,  but  your  Father  is  crazy  to  get  home.  I  am  too 
tired  to  write  much  while  travelling  and  this  climate  when 
you  take  the  water  makes  you  feel  good  for  nothing.  No 
doubt  a  change  will  be  better.  I  am  takingthecure  religiously. 
I  must  stop  to  go  out  with  Aunt  Fanny,  so  good-bye. 
With  much  love, 

Your  aflf.,  M.  D.  R. 


310 


GERMANY 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

Friday,  Aug.  13th,  1897. 
Dear  Sam, 

To-day  I  got  the  Ledger  with  the  account  of  the  Corin- 
thian Cruise.  What  a  rough  time  they  did  have!  I  am  glad 
now  you  had  the  good  sense  to  stay  away.  Your  Mother  has 
at  last  agreed  to  quit  Hombourg,  so  to-morrow  we  start  at 
9  A.  M.  for  Frankfurt,  Heidelberg  and  the  Black  Forest,  and 
arrive  on  Sunday  evening  at  Sigmaringen  for  a  stay  of  several 
days  with  Count  Adelmann.  She  is  sorry  to  leave  here  now 
Uncle  Joe  and  Aunt  Fanny  and  Lina  and  Betty  are  here.  I 
am  perfectly  satisfied  to  go. 

To-night  we  are  to  dine  at  the  Kursaal  where  there  will 
be  splendid  fireworks  and  a  dance  and  another  dance  at  our 
Hotel  under  the  patronage  of  the  Duke  of  Cambridge.  Your 
Mother  seems  perfectly  contented  here  and  enjoys  the  flutter 
of  fine  folks  that  crowd  the  place.  I  wander  around  when 
not  doing  errands  for  her,  sit  at  the  Tennis  Courts  or  make 
excursions  into  the  Taunus  Mountains. 

Beau  Thomson  left  this  morning  for  Bremen  and  will  be 
very  much  missed  here.  He  has  been  most  attentive  to  all 
of  us  and  we  enjoyed  seeing  him  play  Tennis. 

We  have  had  cloudy  weather  for  a  few  days  but  to-day 
is  like  a  typical  May  day  with  us  and  most  enjoyable.  I  only 
hope  we  shall  have  as  good  weather  for  our  Black  Forest  trip. 

Write  me  what  your  plans  are  about  getting  the  Acme 
back  to  Philadelphia  and  if  you  contemplate  entering  the 
Law  School  this  Autumn. 

So  good-bye  and  with  our  united  love 

Your  aff,  F.  H.  R. 

Sigmaringen,  Thurs.  Aug.  19th  1897. 

Dear  Cliff  and  Sam: 

Here  we  are  quartered  in  Graf  Adelmann's  house  and  have 
been  since  last  Sunday  night,  but  on  the  run  every  minute 
with   some   delightful   occupation   or   engagement   and   only 

311 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

have  had  this  chance  to  write  as  it  is  pouring  rain.  Your  letter 
of  the  30th  July  from  North  East  Harbor  found  us  here,  and 
Sam's  of  1st  and  3rd  of  August.  We  were  delighted  to  know 
you  were  both  well  and  happy  and  only  regret  you  are  not 
here  to  enjoy  with  us  the  delights  of  this  historical  region. 


ON  THE  DANUBE  AT  SIGMARINGEN 

We  are  on  the  Danube  in  a  country  dotted  everywhere  with 
castles  and  we  have  been  entertained  in  several  and  this  even- 
ing we  are  formally  invited  to  tea  with  the  Furst  (Prince).* 
You  can  imagine  our  perturbation  at  such  an  undertaking. 

*Prince  Leopold,  Sigmaringen,  about  whose  nomination  for  King  of  Spain,  in  1870, 
the  Franco-Prussian  War  was  forced.  Count  Adelmann  is  his  Hof  Kammer  President  and 
hence  the  invitation  to  dinner.  The  Prince  died  in  Berlin  later  while  attending  the  wed- 
ding of  the  Crown  Prince  of  Germany.  His  brother  was  King  of  Roumania,  and  his  son 
is  now  King  of  that  country  (1916),  the  former  king  having  no  heir. 


31- 


GERMANY 

Friday,  Aug.  20th. 
As  expected  at  6  last  evening  two  carriages  came  from  the 
Summer  Palace  for  us.     Your  Mother,  Countess  Adelmann 
and  Graf  Raban  went  in  one  and  Graf  and  I  in  the  other.     It 


.    ScbloB  Siamaringc 

rained  pitchforks,  so  we  snuggled  in  to  keep  dry,  for  a  drive 
of  about  5  miles.  We  drove  up  to  the  palace  and  found  the 
Hof  (court)  Marshal  waiting  for  us  and  about  a  dozen  lackeys. 
Our  wraps  were  soon  off  and  we  went  through  a  series  of  rooms 

313 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

to  a  large  reception  room,  where  I  was  introduced  to  one  or 
two  gentlemen  and  the  Priest  when  a  gentleman  greeted  me 
in  a  most  friendly  manner  and  I  talked  some  minutes  with  him 
before  I  knew  I  was  talking  to  the  Prince  of  Hohenzollern 
Sigmaringen,  Cousin  of  the  Emperor  William  and  probably 
the  wealthiest  prince  in  Europe!  a  most  amiable,  intelligent,, 
and  unpretending  man,  a  good  edition  in  appearance  and  size 
of  Sterling,  w4th  the  same  nervous  energy;  afterward  the 
three  ladies  of  the  Court  came  in  and  I  was  introduced. 
When  your  Mother  and  Countess  Adelmann  came  in  all 
the  men  were  presented  and  the  Hof  Marshal  quietly  told 
each  one  where  to  sit  at  the  dinner  table.  To  my  sur- 
prise your  Mother  was  taken  to  table  by  and  sat  on  the 
right  of  the  Prince,  Grafin  Adelmann  on  his  left  and  I  to 
her  left,  etc.,  your  Mother  being  the  guest  of  honor.  Well 
you  can  imagine  her  sensations,  first  an  all-gone  feeling  and 
then  the  pride  of  the  Richardsons  and  at  last  a  feeling  of 
confidence  and  she  kept  the  Prince  and  table  in  good  spirits. 

The  table  fixins  she  will  no  doubt  describe,  altho  they  were 
not  half  as  showy  as  your  Mother's,  yet  nice.  There  w^ere 
lots  of  servants  and  two  or  three  sorts  of  wine.  The  Prince 
drank  to  my  health  and  then  the  Hof  Marshal  and  by  the 
time  the  meal  was  over  we  felt  as  if  we  could  eat  with  anybody, 
however  grand. 

After  dinner  we  went  to  a  tenpin  alley,  the  ladies  going 
in  an  antique  Sedan  Chair  and  the  men  skipping  between  the 
rain  drops.  Once  inside  the  Bowling  place  cigars  were  lighted 
by  the  men  and  cigarettes  by  the  ladies.  I  had  several  long 
talks  with  the  Prince  and  yourMother  sat  with  him  the  whole 
evening,  the  centre  of  all  observers.  He  thanked  us  for  coming 
and  said  he  was  delighted  to  have  met  us. 

About  10.30  we  started  for  town  through  the  rain  and  after 
a  cup  of  tea  at  Adelmann's  we  went  to  bed  at  midnight.  Your 
Mother  to  dream  of  Princes  and  palaces,  etc.  The  Adelmanns 
have  been  simply  unending  in  their  kindness  to  us.  Graf 
Raban  is  a  lovely  fellow,  studying  law,  has  been  in  Leipsic 

314 


GERMANY 

but  goes  to  Berlin  this  winter.  His  elder  brother  is  in  Mar- 
gate, has  throat  trouble.  The  daughter  Mechtilde  is  a  sweet 
blonde  girl,  charming  and  chubby  and  the  Countess  is  fine 
looking  and  a  splendid  hostess. 


//^Z^C<.<y^ 


<C^c 


^f'f^^vU' 


Adelmann  is  full  of  fun  altho  he  is  a  very  busy  man,  having 
charge  of  all  of  the  Estates  of  the  Furst,  here,  in  Holland, 
Pomerania,  Austria    and    other    places.     We  are  to  be  here 

315 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

till  Tuesday  when  wc  take  Raban  with  us  to  Munich  and 
Augsburg  and  thence  to  Adelmann's  own  Castle  Hohcnstadt 
for  two  da}'s  and  then  we  will  work  our  way  to  Paris,  to  be 
there  about  the  5th  of  Sept.  It  would  take  many  pages  to 
give  }'Ou  a  faint  idea  of  all  we  have  seen  and  done  here,  the 
castles  we  have  visited,  the  people  we  have  met  and  of  the 
beautiful  things  we  have  seen. 

Adelmann*  is  related  to  the  very  highest  nobility  around 
and  is  welcomed  everywhere  and  entertains  a  great  deal.  He 
showed  us  his  book  in  which  all  visitors  sign  their  names  and 
among  them  were  many  royal  persons.  The  sun  is  shining 
again  and  I  have  warm  clothing  on  but  I  feel  cold. 

Well  I  must  close  now,  hoping  to  have  letters  from  you 
to-day.     With  love  to  both  of  you, 

Affy.,  F.  H.  R. 

Sigmaringen,  August  20,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

How  can  I  ever  begin,  there  is  so  much  to  tell!  We  left 
Frankfurt  last  Saturday  morning  and  came  down  through 
Heidelberg  to  Hausach  in  the  Black  Forest,  where  young 
Adelmann  met  us  and  we  drove  by  carriage  to  Triberg,  a  most 
beautiful  place,  and  spent  the  night  there.  We  found  Dr.  and 
Airs.  Wm.  White  and  young  Harrison,  and  Dr.  Stengel  there 
bicycling  through  that  part  of  the  country  and  old  Mrs.  Geo. 
W.  Biddle  at  the  Hotel. 

The  next  morning  Raban  and  I  went  shopping  and  found 
peasant  bonnets  and  some  little  dolls,  as  we  waited  for  the 
hotel  omnibus  to  come  along,  and  then  who  should  appear 
but  Graf  Adelmann.  He  came  all  the  way  from  Sigmaringen 
to  meet  us;  it  took  us  all  the  rest  of  the  day  till  5  o'clock  to  get 
to  Sigmaringen,  as  it  is  a  roundabout  way. 

*Graf  Adelmann  was  a  "Corps  Brother"  of  mine  in  1869-1870  at  Tiibingen  Univer- 
sity, at  the  time  the  present  King  of  Wurtemberg  was  a  member.  Our  friendship  there 
was  renewed  in  1893  when  Adelmann  came  to  the  United  States  as  a  judge  at  the  Chicago 
Exposition  and  visited  us  in  Philadelphia  and  Jamestown.  His  letters  "62  Days  Among 
the  Yankees  "  went  to  14  editions. 

316 


GERMANY 

The  Countess  met  us  at  the  station  and  we  had  afterward 
a  most  delicious  dinner  with  a  souffle  au  chocolat  for  dessert. 
This  is  their  town  house  and  is  a  fine  big  house  with  beautiful 
garden  opening  into  the  gardens  of  the  town  house  of  the 
Prince  of  Hohenzollern,  cousin  of  the  Kaiser,  and  is  beauti- 
fully furnished  like  a  museum.'  My  bed  room  has  an  entire 
set  of  old  Empire  furniture,  perfect  sofa,  bed,  wardrobe,  and 
the  reception  room  is  all  old  Louis  XV  and  beautiful  portraits 
everywhere,  coats  of  arms,  &c.,  which  it  will  take  me  weeks 
to  tell  you  about. 


BICYCLE  PARTY  AT  TRIBERG 


The  first  morning  we  had  flannel  cakes,  better  than  any 
we  ever  have — yesterday  green  corn  out  of  their  garden. 
They  also  have  electric  light  everywhere  and  a  nice  bathroom. 
They  are  certainly  the  most  hospitable  people  I  ever  met  and 
devote  themselves  to  our  pleasure.  The  first  day,  Monday, 
we  went  to  the  Museum  in  the  Royal  Chateau  and  in  the  after- 
noon drove  to  the  Royal  country  house,  through  the  park  of 
pine  trees,  filled  with  deer,  exquisite  flower  gardens  and  arbors 
and  the  house  very  low  and  old  fashioned.  The  Prince  and 
wife  were  at  Scheveningen  in  Holland  but  were  to  return  next 
day.    She  was  an  Infanta  of  Portugal  and  an  invalid  at  present. 

317 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Little  did  I  think  I  would  be  the  guest  of  honor  at  a  Royal 
residence  and  taken  in  to  supper  on  the  arm  of  the  Prince, 
as  I  was  last  night,  but  of  that  later.  Tuesday  morning  we 
went  through  the  Schloss,  their  ancient  residence  perched 
high  on  great  rocks  hanging  over  the  Danube,  and  in  the  after- 
noon we  went  to  see  a  monastery  at  Beuron,  through  magnifi- 
cent rock  scenery  along  the  Danube,  This  monastery  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  Benedictines  in  Germany  and  we  got  there 


ARMOR  IX  VAULT  AT  SCHLOSS  SIGMARINGEN 
A  collection  of  arms,  etc.,  from  earliest  ages  to  the  present  time 

in  time  for  a  service  in  honor  of  some  Fest,  and  heard  the  old 
Gregorian  church  music,  one  of  the  few  places  where  it  is 
possible  to  hear  it.  Then  we  called  on  Pater  Nicolas,  who  is 
a  Count  something,  and  one  of  the  big  men.  He  was  sent  to 
the  Rhine  to  entertain  the  Kaiser  at  one  of  their  monasteries. 
He  took  us  to  walk  up  a  mountain,  where  we  could  see  a  beau- 
tiful old  castle,  where  lived  relatives  of  the  family,  but  we 
couldn't  walk  as  far  as  it  was  so  warm  in  the  sun.  It  seems 
they  saw  us  coming  in  the  castle  and  were  disappointed  when 
we  turned  back, 

318 


GERMANY 

I  met  a  count  and  countess there  who  spoke 

English  perfectly,  and  there  came,  back  with  us  a  widow, 
Baroness  of  Hornstein  (whose  castle  we  saw  on  top  of  a  rock 
on  the  way  from  Triberg),  with  her  two  children.  She  is  a 
relative  and  stayed  here  over  night,  to  go  with  us  on  Wednes- 
day to  Grueningen  to  visit  another  Hornstein  in  an  old  castle 
built  on  Roman  foundations. 

So  Wednesday  three  Adelmanns,   three  Hornsteins,  two 


.^%m 


COUNT  SALIS.  "PATER  NICOLAS,"  HEAD  OF  THE  MONASTERY 
BENEDICTINE  ORDER  AT  BEURON 

von  Gallens  and  ourselves,  went  by  train  to  Riedlingen  and 
drove  to  the  village  of  Grueningen,  which  belongs  to  the  castle 
where  the  Hornsteins  live  and  the  castle  church  is  also  the 
parish  church.  The  castle  was  wonderful  with  secret  stair- 
cases and  windows  of  old  stained  glass,  coats  of  arms  every- 
where, armor  and  guns,  rifles,  spears  and  lances,  in  short  the 
whole  thing  looking  like  the  Cluny  Museum. 

The  Count  does  the  most  wonderful  illuminating  and 
showed  us  the  family  book,  containing  the  family  history  and 
names  of  all  people  who  visit  them,  with  colored  coats  of  arms. 

319 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Here  again  I  was  the  guest  of  honor  and  seated  at  the  tea 
table  in  a  mediaeval  room  at  the  right  hand  of  the  host.  Then 
we  saw  beautiful  portraits  and  embroideries  in  use  400  years, 


HALL,  SCHLOSS  HORNSTEIX.  GRUEXIXGEX 

such  furniture,  tapestries,  brocades  and  bric-a-brac,  and  they 
are  so  modest  with  it  all,  and  you  would  have  thought  I  was 
a  queen  the  way  they  treated  me. 

Sigmaringen,  Sunday  22nd  August,  1897. 
We  were  invited  Thursday  by  the  Prince  and  Princess  of 
Hohenzollern  to  spend  the  afternoon  and  take  supper  at  their 
country  residence.  It  rained  so  terribly  that  the  Hof  Marshall 
sent  us  word  to  come  only  to  supper  at  7.30.  They  sent  the 
Royal  carriages  with  crowns  on  the  lining  at  6.30  and  we  drove 
nearly  an  hour.  We  were  taken  up  to  a  room  lighted  with 
candles  and  then  they  came  in  a  hurry  to  say  the  Prince  was 
waiting,  so  we  had  to  fly  down  and  the  first  thing  I  knew  I  was 
leaving  the  drawing  room  on  the  arm  of  the  man  who  unwit- 
tingly caused  the  Franco-Prussian  war. 

320 


GERMANY 

We  entered  the  dining  room  between  two  rows  of  servants 
in  livery  and  one  man  in  full  uniform  also  waited  on  us.  Every 
one  stood  until  the  Prince  and  I  were  seated.  Frank  sat  with  one 
of  the  Maids  of  Honor  and  Countess  Adelmann  was  on  the  other 
side  of  the  Prince.  When  the  champagne  came  the  Prince  drank 


THE  FAMILY  ADELMANN  AND  MRS.  F.  H.  ROSENGARTEN 

first  my  health  and  then  Frank's.  I  have  kept  the  menu  and  the 
namesof  thepeopleattable.  Itwasallveryinformal  and  I  wished 
I  had  Mrs.  Whelen's  talents  and  my  own  voice  to  entertain 
them,  but  I  did  my  best  and  I  think  they  were  all  amused. 
After  supper  the  Prince  said  we  would  play  nine  pins  and 
before  I  knew  it,  in  my  Shaker  cloak,  which  was  much  ad- 
mired, I  was  alone  in  a  Sedan  chair,  which  had  been  arranged 
on  two  wheels  and  drawn  by  a  valet  in  livery  to  another 
entrance,  through  the  rain,  where  the  Prince  received  me. 
Then  we  all  played  and  had  tea,  beer  and  mineral  waters. 
The  Princess  goes  to  bed  at  6  o'clock,  so  we  couldn't  see 
her,  as  the  rain  prevented  our  going  in  the  afternoon.  Can 
you  imagine  sister  Mary  going  through  all  this  with  head  up 
high?  They  were  to  leave  for  Ragatz  next  day  and  Friday 
night  three  of  the  maids  of  honor  came  to  supper  here  and  a 
Count  Bruhl  and  Count  Gallen  and  I  taught  them  Grabuge 

21  321 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  they  were  delighted.  Before  he  left  the  Prince  gave  orders 
that  his  coach  and  four  were  to  be  sent  to  take  us  out  for  a 
drive.  Yesterday  we  spent  the  whole  day  making  the  excur- 
sion to  Hohenzollern,  a  magnificent  stronghold  on  top  of  a 
mountain.  This  Prince  owned  it  all,  but  gave  half  the  owner- 
ship of  the  Castle  to  the  Kaiser  in  1850  when  there  was  a 
rebellion  here  and  he  ceded  many  of  his  lands  to  Prussia. 

To-morrow  we  leave  for  Munich,  stopping  first  at  Ulm  for 
a  few  hours  and  spend  the  night  at  Augsburg  and  get  to  Munich 
Tuesday  eve.  We  stay  there  until  Saturday  and  come  back 
to  Ulm  where  we  meet  Count  Adelmann  and  all  go  to 
Hohenstadt,  their  castle  and  estate.  The  family  comes  from 
Adelmanns-felden,  near  by,  and  in  the  15th  century  acquired 
Hohenstadt.*  Some  of  the  family  still  live  at  Adelmanns- 
felden  and  they  also  have  a  great  house  in  some  other  place. 

We  passed  in  coming  from  the  Black  Forest  an  old  ruin 
on  a  high  hill  called  Hohenstauffen  where  Adelmann's  mother's 
family  lived.  His  grandfather  and  grandmother's  portraits  are 
beautiful.  They  have  a  dreadful  picture  of  severing  a  man's 
hand  from  the  arm,  showing  their  powder  of  life  and  death  in 
the  old  times  over  their  peasants. 

I  must  send  this  off  at  once.     I  don't  get  a  minute  to  do 

anything.     Count  Adelmann  never  forgets  little  Laura  and 

wanted  to  know  all  about  her.     They  think  they  may  come 

over  for  their  silver  wedding  two  years  from  now. 

With  much  love, 

AfT'ly.,  yours,  M.  D.  R. 

Sigmaringen,  Aug.  22nd,  1897. 

Sunday — Raining. 
Dear  Cliff  and  Sam, 

Here  we  are  still  and  enough  cut  out  for  us  to  keep  us  here 
a  month,  so  hospitable  are  our  hosts.  This  afternoon  the 
Prince's  four-in-hand  is  to  come  to  take  us  driving,  but  alas 
it  is  raining.     I  wrote  you  about  our  evening  at  the  Palace. 

*We  were  invited  in  1907  to  come  and  join  in  the  celebration  of  the  acquisition  of 
Hohenstadt  by  the  Adelmann  family,  which  occurred  in  1407! 

322 


GERMANY 

Yesterday  we  went  to  the  famous  Castle  of  Hohenzollern  at 
Hechingen  and  I  renewed  the  dehghts  of  a  visit  there  30  years 
ago. 

To-morrow  we  are  to  leave  for  Ulm  and  Augsburg.  Young 
Raban  Adelmann  and  his  sister  Mechtilde  are  to  go  with  us  as 
our  guests.  We  arrive  in  Munich  on  Tuesday  and  stay  there 
till  Saturday.  Then  we  go  to  Count  Adelmann's  estate  to 
remain  two  days  and  then  we  must  move  on  towards  Paris. 

We  have  enjoyed  our  visit  here  beyond  our  ability  to  de- 
scribe. The  family  are  all  most  intelligent  and  there  is  no  end 
to  their  hospitality.  Night  before  last  Graf  A.  gave  an  Ameri- 
can supper  for  us,  tomatoes,  green  corn,  flannel  cakes  and 
other  American  things  that  are  unknown  here  (the  seeds  and 
formulas  he  got  at  Jamestown  in  1893),  and  had  the  Court 
ladies  and  several  Counts  and  your  Mother  taught  them 
"Grabouche"  and  we  had  lots  of  fun.  I  dread  to  say  good-bye 
— everyone  has  been  so  kind  and  we  feel  as  if  we  were  per- 
fectly at  home.  The  Prince  was  most  cordial  and  thanked 
us  for  visiting  him.     So  good-bye  and  best  love, 

Affy.,  F.  H.  R. 

We  hope  to  be  in  Paris  on  the  5th. 

Aug.  23rd  1897,  10  A.  M. — Raining. 
Dear  W, 

We  have  been  here  eight  days  with  Count  Adelmann  and 
have  been  overwhelmed  with  attentions,  dined  with  the  Prince 
in  the  summer  palace.  He  sent  his  four-in-hand  to  take  us 
driving  and  we  have  been  to  the  most  romantic  castles,  cloisters 
and  visited  the  wonderful  museums  and  collections  of  arms 
here.  So  time  has  flown  and  no  letters  written.  We  must 
tell  you  all  about  it  when  we  come  back. 

We  are  to  leave  at  i  o'clock  for  Ulm,  Augsburg  and  Munich 
and  remain  in  Munich  till  Saturday  when  we  go  to  Hohen- 
stadt,  Graf  Adelmann's  own  castle,  for  two  days  and  by  the 
time  this  reaches  you  we  will  be  back  in  Paris,  where  we  stay 
till  the  22nd  of  Sept.,  on  the  25th  we  sail  for  home.    The 

323 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Danube  is  beginning  to  run  very  full  owing  to  the  rain.  Mary 
is  in  her  element  but  feels  under  deepest  obligations  for  her 
reception  here. 

Yours  ever,  Frank. 

Sigmaringen,  Aug.  23rd,  1897. 

II  A.  M. — raining. 
Dear  Cliff, 

At  last  the  time  has  come  for  us  to  leave  here  and  we  go 

at  I  to  Ulm  and  Augsburg  and  Munich.     While  much  of  the 

time  we  have  had  rain  our  visit  has  been  a  series  of  delightful 


THE  EXCURSION'  TO  NIEBELUXGEN  LAND  IN  ROYAL  EQUIPAGES 

experiences.  Since  I  wrote  you  we  have  visited  Castle  Hohen- 
zoUern  Hechingen.  Yesterday  the  Prince  sent  his  four  in  hand 
and  another  carriage  and  a  big  party  of  us  had  a  glorious 
drive  along  the  Danube.  The  Adelmanns  have  been  untiring 
in  their  thought  of  our  comforts  and  pleasures  and  your 
Mother  is  overwhelmed  with  their  attentions.    The  son  Graf 

324 


GERMANY 


COUNT  ADELMAN  AND  WIFE  AND  M.  D.  R. 


HOHENZOLLERN  HECHINGEN 

Ancient  home  of  the  Hohenzollern  Dynasty 


325 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


SALON,  SCHLOSS  HOHEXZOLLERN.  SIGMARINGEN 


"HOF  KAMMER,"  SIGMARINGEN 

Adelmann's  home  as  Hof  Kammer — President 


326 


GERMANY 


EXTRAN'CE  TO  SCHLOSS  HOHEXZOLLERN,  HECHIXGEX 


>^^ 

"•>^ 


■rJ 


THE  LUXCH  AT  SCHLOSS  HOHEXZOLLERX,  HECHINGEN 
327 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Raban  goes  with  us  to  Munich  where  we  stay  until  Saturday 
and  then  we  go  to  Hohenstadt,  Graf  Adelmann's  Schloss.  He 
lives  in  a  government  building  here,  being  the  President  of 
the  Prince's  establishment.  It  is  a  big  building  with  offices 
on  the  1st  floor  and  his  residence  occupying  the  whole  second 
story.  He  has  a  beautiful  garden  and  on  Friday  gave  us  an 
American  supper  of  green  corn,  tomatoes,  flannel  cakes  and 
lots  of  things  he  learned  of  and  brought  from  America.  His 
wife  and  children  are  charming  people  and  on  close  footing 
of  friendship  with  the  Prince,  also  the  King  of  Wurttemberg 
and  the  Emperor.  Naturally  we  feel  a  little  awkward  meeting 
all  the  fine  people  but  we  find  them  all  cultivated  and  most 
courteous  to  us.  Adelmann  is  so  cordial  in  his  expression  of 
friendship  I  feel  sad  at  parting  with  him,  as  I  shall  hardly  dare 
to  come  to  Europe  again  and  he  will  have  to  come  to  us.  We 
will  have  lots  to  talk  about  on  our  return.  And  with  love  to 
you  and  all, 

Affy.  yrs.,  F.  H.  R. 

Hotel  Bayerischer  Hof, 
Munich,  27th  August,  1897. 
My  Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  still,  arriving  Tuesday  evening  and  expecting 
to  leave  for  Hohenstadt,  Graf  Adelmann's  Estate,  to-morrow 
noon  and  remain  there  till  Monday.  Thence  we  work  our 
way  gradually  to  Paris,  where  I  shall  be  glad  to  get  a  rest. 
Here  we  have  been  on  the  go  with  Count  Raban  Adelmann, 
going  to  concerts,  theatres  and  the  Opera  in  the  evenings,^ 
and  seeing  pictures  in  the  day  time.  Your  Mother  is  perfectly 
wild  to  buy  things  and  as  I  am  not  interested  in  the  sort  of 
things  she  is,  nor  in  the  trouble  of  getting  purchases  to  Phila- 
delphia, she  makes  little  progress. 

Munich  is  a  very  interesting  place,  but  this  Hotel  is  not 

cheerful.     The  art  life  here  is  intense  but  without  suitable 

people  to  show  us  around,  naturally  we  lose  more  time  trying 

to  make  up  our  minds  what  to  see  than  we  take  in  seeing  them. 

328 


GERMANY 


HOTEL  BAVERISCHER  HOP,  MUNICH 


THE  OPERA  HOUSE.  MUNICH 


329 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  weather  is  most  treacherous  and  ever}'  day  the  rain  comes 
at  intervals  so  one  has  to  trust  to  an  umbrella  to  keep  dry. 
However  we  have  been  fortunate  to  escape  a  wetting.  Your 
last  letters  were  dated  about  the  12th  of  August  and  gave  us 
much  comfort. 

Your  A'lother  is  as  enthusiastic  as  ever,  altho  she  tires 
easily  and  I  have  to  obey  her  wishes.  Uncle  Joe  is  still  at 
Hombourg  and  expects  to  be  there  until  6th  or  7th  of  Septem- 
ber. So  with  love  to  all  our  dear  ones,  remembrances  to  the 
servants  and  best  wishes  for  your  happiness. 

As  ever  Your  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 

Schloss  Hohenstadt, 
August  29th,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

Just  a  week  since  I  wrote  you  from  Sigmaringen  and  when 
the  Prince  sent  his  break  and  four  horses  to  take  us  driving- 
We  went  to  a  beautiful  valley  where  there  was  a  cave  exactly 
like  the  one  in  Siegfried  where  the  dragon  stays.  We  went  to 
Ulm,  Monday  at  one  o'clock,  taking  Raban  with  us  and  got 
there  at  four,  took  a  carriage  and  drove  all  around  and  found 
it  very  curious  and  interesting,  not  in  any  way  modern — and 
dined  there  and  went  on  to  Augsburg  for  the  night.  We  slept 
at  the  "Drei  Mohren,"  Three  Moors,  and  it  is  next  to  the 
Fugger  House,  and  in  the  hall  of  the  hotel  is  the  chimney  piece 
where  the  old  Fugger  threw  the  bonds  of  Charles  the  Fifth 
into  the  fire. 

Augsburg  we  also  found  very  ancient  and  interesting,  the 
magnificent  Cathedral,  Ratti  Haus,  &c.  taking  all  our  morning 
and  we  took  the  afternoon  train  to  Munich.  There  we  were 
busy  looking  at  the  New  and  Old  Palaces  filled  with  gorgeous 
things  and  the  Old  and  New  picture  galleries  and  antiquary 
shops  all  day  long. 

The  second  evening  we  spent  at  the  Residenz  Theatre  at  a 
performance  of  "Cosi  fan  tutti"  by  Mozart.  The  Theatre 
was  very  richly  decorated  in  rococo  style  and  the  perform- 

330 


GERMANY 

ance  excellent.  The  first  night  I  forgot  to  sav  we  went  to 
the  Kalm  Concert,  a  splendid  orchestra  of  85,  and  a  big  organ. 
I  brought  the  program  with  me. 

Thursday  night  we  went  to  see  "Tristan  and  Isolde"  at 
the  Royal  Opera  House,  Vogl  singing  Tristan.  I  got  so  tired 
before  the  last  act  I  had  to  come  home.  The  last  evening  the 
others  went  to  the  "Fledermaus"  and  I  stayed  at  home  and 


J^.a^^^/<^/. 


packed  the  trunks  so  as  to  have  Saturday  morning  free  and  I 
bought  an  old  clock  for  the  library  mantel.  Saturday  at  one 
we  took  a  fast  train  back  to  Ulm  where  Count  Adelmann  met 
us  and  an  hour  and  a  half  brought  us  to  Aalen,  when  a  carriage 
was  waiting  with  a  coachman  in  greenish  gray  Tyrolean  or 
Jager  costume  and  we  drove  ten  miles  mostly  up  hill  to  this 
place. 

I  expected  a  good  deal  but  I  was  not  at  all  prepared  for  the 
size  of  the  castle  and  church.    There  is  a  circle  of  mountains 

331 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

in  the  distance  and  we  look  down  from  every  window  on  a 
magnificent  panorama.  The  staircase  is  superb  and  the  steps 
so  low  that  in  the  old  French  wars  once  the  French  officers 
rode  their  horses  all  the  way  up.  The  first  room  was  an  enor- 
mous hall,  at  least  30  ft.  by  50  ft.,  perhaps  more,  with  a  music 
gallery  at  one  end  and  the  rooms  all  open  on  it,  with  double 
doors.  It  is  hung  with  old  portraits  and  decorated  in  plaster 
in  rococo  style  and  all  the  ceilings  of  the  rooms  are  similar, 
as  also  the  church. 


S^  HLOSS  HOHENSTADT 
The  Home  of  the  Adelmann  Family 


We  arrived  after  seven  in  time  for  supper,  which  was  de- 
licious, and  went  to  bed  early.  This  morning  we  went  to 
church  at  nine  o'clock  after  this  fashion.  We  went  a  short 
way  from  the  Castle  through  a  cloister  formerly  covered,  into 
a  tower  and  up  a  high  staircase,  which  brought  us  into  a  room 
just  over  the  chancel  and  with  a  long  window  into  the  church 
just  like  a  proscenium  box  at  the  Opera,  with  a  beautiful  gilt 
frame  and  glass  windows  pushed  up,  red  velvet  cushions  to 
kneel  on  and  lean  on  and  after  the  sermon  the  priest  prayed 

332 


GERMANY 


AUGSBURG  CATHEDRAL 


ROYAL  CARRIAGES  OF  PRIX'CE  LEOPOLD  OF  HOHEXZOLLERN 


333 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

for  the  Adelmann  family.  They  lived  at  Adclmannsfelden, 
their  old  home  a  thousand  or  twelve  hundred  years  ago  and 
own  it  yet,  and  bought  this  place  in  1407,  I  think  it  was,  and 
have  been  Lords  of  the  Manor  ever  since. 

After  service  we  w^ent  down  and  visited  the  church.  It 
was  built  by  an  Adelmann  and  very  large  and  handsome  and 
the  service  was  very  impressive.  In  front  of  the  Chancel  was 
a  large  tablet  in  the  floor  with  a  huge  colored  coat  of  arms, 
which  turned  out  to  be  the  door  to  the  crypt,  where  the  family 


PRINCE  LEOPOLD  OF  HOHENZOLLERN 


is  all  buried.  Afterwards  we  went  into  the  garden,  which  is 
laid  out  like  Versailles.  It  was  made  by  an  ancestor,  a  lady, 
whose  husband  (an  Adelmann)  was  Minister  to  France,  and 
there  she  got  the  idea.  Long  arbors  and  rows  of  high  trimmed 
trees  and  orangeries  down  the  middle  with  exquisite  views 
over  the  mountains. 

The  furniture  here  makes  one  weep  with  envy  and  how 
perfect  it  must  have  been  here  before  they  took  away  all  they 
have  at  Sigmaringen.  They  have  a  replica  of  the  great  stone 
tablet  that  the  Austrians  took  from  them,  in  the  Church,  of 

334 


GERMANY 


STAIRCASE,  SCHLOSS  HOHEXSTADT 


A  PART  OF  THE  GARDEN  OF  SCHLOSS  HOHEXSTADT 

335 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

the  Adelmann  who  was  killed  on  his  return  from  the  Crusades 
by  a  neighboring  Baron.  I  believe  the  descendants  of  that 
very  man  still  live  here  and  they  are  all  friends  now. 

I  have  made  a  little  spot  where  our  rooms  are  on  the  pic- 
ture at  the  head  of  this  paper  and  the  moat  is  down  below 
filled  with  big  fish  which  look  just  like  gold  fish  but  are  not. 
From  the  dining  room  and  salon  you  look  straight  down  a 
fearful  depth  to  the  ground,  and  then  there  is  a  slope  way  off 
to  the  valley  covered  with  orchards.  Frank  has  taken  pic- 
tures of  everything  and  if  they  turn  out  all  right  you  will  have 
a  very  good  idea  of  the  place. 


CHURCH  OF  HOHENSTADT 


You  feel  as  if  you  were  high  up  in  the  mountains,  but  it 
is  not  really  so  high,  and  I  never  saw  a  more  glorious  view. 
We  are  eating  delicious  green  corn  as  sweet  as  sugar  and  such 
flannel  cakes  as  we  never  get,  and  strange  to  say,  baked  with- 
out any  fat  on  the  griddle.  We  leave  Tuesday  morning  for 
Stuttgart  and  Tubingen  and  go  into  the  Vosges  on  our  way 

336 


GERMANY 

to  Paris.  Please  send  this  to  Cliff  and  ask  him  to  keep  it 
carefully.  I  was  glad  to  hear  of  your  cheerful  surroundings 
at  Jamestown  and  hope  it  may  last.     With  much  love  to  all, 

Aiffy.  yours,  M.  D.  R. 

Schloss  Hohenstadt, 

Aug.  29th,  1897. 
Dear  Clifford, 

I  write  in  a  hurry  to  tell  you  of  our  arrival  here  last  evening 
and  with  all  our  expectations  more  than  realized.  A  real  old 
castle  with  village  and  church  attached.    We  spent  four  days 


COUNTESS  ADELMANX'S  BOUDOIR,  SCHLOSS  HOHENSTADT 

in  Munich  and  had  young  Adelmann  with  us — went  to  theatre 

and  Opera,  &c.,  &c. 

We  go  from  here  day  after  to-morrow  to   Stuttgart  and 

Tubingen  two  or  three  days  in  the  Vosges  on  our  way  to  Paris. 

I  don't  know  why  your  Father  don't  care  to  go  to  Hombourg 

to  see  the  Parade. 

22  337 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Can  you  imagine  me  sitting  up  in  a  proscenium  box  at 
church  to-day  with  velvet  cushions  and  gilt  frame  like  the 
Empress  Frederick  at  the  old  Schloss  at  Hombourg?  Only 
it  is  much  more  elegant  and  talk  about  portraits  of  ancestors, 
everywhere,  and  coats  of  arms  and  the  crypt  where  all  the 
Adelmanns  are  buried  under  the  chancel!  They  prayed  for 
the  family  just  after  the  sermon.  I  fear  it  will  be  hard  to 
become  an  ordinary  person  after  speaking  with  nothing  be- 
low a  Count  or  Baron,  each  one  with  a  castle  attached. 


BANQUET  HALL,  SCHLOSS  HOHEXSTADT 

The  waiter  man  here  wears  a  hunting  costume  of  greyish- 
green,  which  is  beautiful  and  just  in  keeping  with  the  room 
and  furnishings.  I  am  bringing  back  the  recipe  for  souffle  au 
chocolat,  you  never  tasted  such  good  things  to  eat  in  your 
life,  and  they  know  how  to  live.  The  staircase  is  superb. 
In  the  French  wars  once  the  French  officers  rode  up  the  stair- 
case on  horseback. 

The  manoeuvres  are  to  take  place  in  the  neighborhood  and 

338 


GERMANY 

they  are  to  entertain  eleven  officers  for  ten  days,  among  them 
two  Princes,  &c.,  &c. 

I  must  stop  and  we  shall  not  cease  to  regret  that  you 
couldn't  have  seen  all  this.*   I  must  go  to  supper,  so  good-bye. 

With  much  love, 

Your  aff.  Mother,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  Marquardt,  Stuttgart, 
Tuesday,  Aug.  31st,  1897,  11  P.  M. 
Dear  Cliff  and  Sam, 

We  said  good-bye  to-day  to  the  Adelmann  family  at  their 
Schloss  at  Hohenstadt,  near  Aalen  in  Wurtemberg  after  four 
days  of  most  delightful  hospitality  from  them.  Hohenstadt 
consists  of  a  dozen  or  more  farms  and  large  forests  and  the 
Schloss  and  grounds  have  been  in  the  family  since  the  iSth 
Century. 

The  Schloss  is  wonderfully  interesting  but  it  is  so  late  I 
wont  attempt  to  describe  it  now  as  we  are  to  leave  to-morrow 
at  8.30  for  Tubingen,  stay  there  to  dinner  and  then  go  on  to 
Freudenstadt  In  the  Black  Forest  for  the  night.  Thursday  we 
drive  over  the  highest  roads  there  and  reach  Strasbourg  for 
the  night  and  Paris  by  Saturday. 

Graf  Adelmann's  family,  wife,  son  Raban  and  daughter 
Mechtilde  are  cultivated,  handsome  people,  and  we  enjoyed 
being  with  them  and  they  begged  us  to  stay  longer  but  as  they 
must  quarter  14  officers  (a  Prince  will  have  the  rooms  we  had) 
and  150  soldiers  for  ten  days  during  the  army  manoeuvres 
beginning  on  the  8th  of  Sept.,  we  felt  we  could  not  intrude 
longer. 

Raban  is  a  splendid  fellow  and  is  studying  law  and  will 
enter  the  government  service,  his  brother  inheriting  the  estate 
and  title. 

Your  affectionate,  F.  H.  R. 

We  hope  to  get  a  pile  of  letters  at  Strasbourg  on  Thursday. 

*With  our  sons  we  revisited  Hohenstadt  in  1900  and  shared  in  the  celebration  of  the 
Adelmann  Silver  Wedding. 

339 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Schwarzwald — Hotel  in  Freudenstadt, 
September  ist,  1897,  Wed.  8.30  P.  M. 
Dear  Boys: 

Here  we  are  in  a  curious  place  at  the  edge  of  the  east  side 
of  the  Black  Forest,  on  our  way  across  the  Forest  to  Stras- 
bourg and  Paris.  We  left  Hohenstadt,  Graf  Adelmann's 
Schloss,  yesterday  afternoon  and  spent  the  night  in  Stuttgart. 
This  morning  we  left  Stuttgart  at  8.20  for  Tubingen,  reaching 
there  at  10.20  and  taking  a  cab  drove  all  over,  saw  the  many 
familiar  places  and  the  Dungeons  under  the  Castle,  etc.  At 
1.30  we  left  for  this  place,  but  had  to  change  trains  three  times 
and  the  hot  weather  nearly  used  up  your  Mother. 

This  place  is  very  high  and  the  Doctors  send  their  patients 
here  after  the  "cure"  in  Hombourg  and  other  places.  The 
Hotel  is  neat  and  clean  but  there  are  few  English-speaking 
people  and  none  of  them  interesting  looking.  W^e  take  a 
carriage  to-morrow  and  drive  about  20  miles  and  then  take 
train  to  Strasbourg. 

I  hope  to  find  a  lot  of  letters  at  Strasbourg  with  good  news 
of  you  both.  I  wonder  if  Sam  has  started  the  Acme  towards 
home  and  attended  to  having  the  Custom  House  papers  fixed 
in  Newport. 

So  good  night  with  our  best  love. 

Affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 


FRANCE 

The  Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  September  3rd,  1897. 
Dear  Boys, 

Here  we  are  a  day  ahead  of  our  schedule,  owing  to  unceas- 
ing rain  storms  in  Germany, 

We  left  Hohenstadt  (Count  Adelmann's  Castle),  on  Tues- 
day and  spent  that  night  in  Stuttgart.  Next  morning  bright 
and  early  we  went  to  Tubingen,  my  old  University  town,  and 
had  a  most  interesting  visit  there,  but  met  no  acquaintances 
there  as  the  vacation  is  now  on.  In  the  afternoon  we  went 
on  to  Freudenstadt,  a  pretty  mountain  resort  on  the  border 
of  the  Black  Forest  and  spent  the  night  there.  Yesterday 
morning  we  left  there  in  bright  sunshine  in  a  good  team 
to  drive  through  the  highest  part  of  the  Black  Forest,  but 
were  hardly  started  before  a  dreadful  rain  storm  came  on  and 
we  saw  very  little  of  the  beauties  of  that  interesting  region. 
Fortunately  we  got  through  without  a  wetting  and  took  a 
train  at  Oppenau  for  Strasbourg.  There  we  went  to  the  Hotel 
Ville  de  Paris  to  stay  all  night  and  to  go  to-day  to  the  Vosges. 

Alas !  we  woke  up  to  find  heavy  rain  so  we  concluded  to  come 
right  on  to  Paris  and  now  we  are  glad  we  did  as  the  ride  was 
cool  and  no  dust  and  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  Mrs. 
Dr.  Thos.  Conrad  (Aunt  of  Percy  Frazer)  and  Miss  Hutch- 
inson, Aunt  of  Margaretta  H. — your  friend,  two  very  lovely 
women  and  we  had  the  first  jolly  railroad  ride  yet. 

341 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

This  Hotel  is  crowded  with  Americans  but  not  one  single 
face  familiar  to  us.  Air.  Elias  has  not  turned  up  as  we  had 
hoped  for  and  no  letters  here  from  home.  Your  Mother  keeps 
wonderfully  well. 

W'c  shall  make  this  our  Headquarters  till  about  the  21st 
of  September  and  then  work  our  way  towards  Havre,  whence 


THE  CHEMICAL  LABORATORY,  UNIVERSITY  OF    i  LL;:...E.\ 

we  now  expect  to  sail  on  the  25th  on  the  French  liner  Touraine 
and  hope  to  reach  New  York  by  the  ist  of  October. 

F.  H.  R. 

The  Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  6th  Sept.,  1897. 
Dear  Sam, 

We  are  having  continuous  rainy  weather  and  to-day  is 
forbidding.  Fortunately  this  Hotel  is  very  comfortable  and 
we  manage  to  pass  the  time,  especially  as  a  big  batch  of 
"Ledgers"  came  from  Wm.  Cotter,  who  has  faithfully  remem- 
bered me  in  our  wanderings. 

I  suppose  by  this  time  the  Yachts  have  pretty  well  disap- 

342 


FRANCE 

peared  from  the  Bay  and  Jamestown  is  pretty  well  cleaned 
out  of  Summer  folks.  You  no  doubt  will  soon  be  starting  Jim 
homeward  with  the  boat. 

We,  too,  were  glad  to  read  in  the  Paris  Herald  that  Wrenn 
had  again  won  the  Championship,  notwithstanding  the  rain. 
Curiously  enough  the  Tennis  Tournament  at  Hombourg  was 
spoiled  by  rain,  too. 

Your  Mother  is  busy  with  her  shopping  here  and  keeps 
me  running  errands.  We  are  to  sail  on  the  25th — 19  days 
more,  so  the  time  will  pass  quickly  I  am  sure.  If  you  are  near 
New  York  about  the  ist  or  2nd  of  October  look  us  up  at 
the  French  Line  Dock. 

I  suppose  I  will  hardly  receive  the  answer  to  this  letter  as 
it  will  not  reach  you  until  the  i6th  and  we  leave  Paris  on  the 
23rd  or  24th. 

Yrs.  F.  H.  R. 

The  Normandy  Hotel, 

Paris,  9th  September,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

I  haven't  had  a  moment  in  which  to  write  since  we  left 
Hohen'itadt.  That  Sunday  I  wrote  you  a  full  description  of 
everything  but  shall  have  plenty  to  tell  when  I  get  home.  We 
went  to  Stuttgart  and  Tubingen  and  then  to  Freudenstadt  in 
the  Black  Forest,  and  drove  in  a  pouring  rain  over  a  high 
mountain  and  down  through  a  beautiful  valley  w^here  there 
were  numerous  watering  places  and  very  attractive  looking 
ones,  where  I  should  like  to  go  sometime.  We  enjoyed  it  in 
spite  of  the  rain  and  got  to  Strasbourg  that  night. 

From  there  we  intended  to  go  into  the  Vosges  Mts.,  but 
it  was  raining  so  hard  that  we  gave  it  up  and  took  the  fast 
train  to  Paris,  and  here  we  are.  I,  of  course,  was  laid  up  for 
several  days  and  had  headache  and  the  weather  has  been 
horrid  so  I  have  lost  almost  a  week.  We  went  to  church  Sun- 
day morning. 

I  at  first  had  decided  not  to  buy  anything,  but  got  inter- 

343 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

ested  and  now  think  I  will  get  a  silk  dress  and  a  ball  dress  as 
I  may  not  come  again  and  I  shall  not  grow  younger  and  it 
seems  to  me  if  I  am  ever  going  to  have  anything  I  should  have 
it  now  and  not  w^orry  about  it,  but  the  prices  are  terrible  at 
the  good  places  and  I  haven't  the  strength  of  mind  or  body  to 
go  around  getting  prices  and  making  comparisons. 

Last  night  we  amused  ourselves  by  going  to  the  "Diner  de 
Paris"  in  the  Passage  Jouffroy,  w'here  Father  and  I  used  to 
go  and  we  had  a  delicious  dinner,  but  it  was  all  so  old  fashioned 
and  different  from  the  Americanized  hotels. 

As  I  was  sitting  here  writing  who  should  come  in  but 
young  Miss  Boyd  from  Phila.,  and  her  aunt,  who  have  been 
visiting  an  aunt  in  Loches  near  Tours,  so  now  we  are  all  writ- 
ing and  talking  together.  I  get  tired  very  easily  and  when  I 
am  tired  I  have  no  sense  and  consequently  cannot  do  much 
of  any  shopping.  I  cannot  tell  you  how  I  dread  the  trip  home, 
while  Frank  is  counting  the  hours. 

We  are  going  to  make  a  two-days'  trip,  to  Rheims,  Laon, 
Pierrefonds,  Compiegne  and  Beauvais,  when  it  clears,  and 
will  stop  at  Rouen  on  our  way  to  Havre,  probably  leaving 
here  the  23rd.  I  am  so  tired  I  must  go  to  bed,  so  good  bye 
and  don't  be  surprised  if  I  don't  write  again,  as  I  shall  be  in  a 
whirl.    With  love  to  all. 

Your  aflP.  M.  D.  R. 

The  Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  9th  September,  1897. 
Dear  Sam, 

Your  welcome  letter  of  the  29th  of  August  came  today 
and  was  the  only  bright  thing  about.  Here  we  are  pursued 
with  rain  and  cold.  Your  Mother  seems  to  enjoy  everything 
and  cannot  understand  why  I  am  cold.  I  am  glad  you  have 
had  some  compensation  in  the  way  of  warm  w^eather  and  can 
enjoy  some  sailing. 

Paris  is  a  most  impressive  place,  a  mixture  of  modern 
newness  with  much  that  is  quaint  and  old  and  everything 

344 


FRANCE 

artistic  and  satisfying  to  the  eye.  The  wonderful  galleries 
and  Museums  of  the  Louvre,  Luxembourg,  Versailles  and 
other  places  are  simply  beyond  description.  This  afternoon  I 
drove  across  the  Seine  (where  we  live  is  north  of  the  Seine)  to 
the  Latin  quarter  and  saw  the  Museum  of  the  Luxembourg, 
wonderful  modern  sculptures  and  paintings  and  then  past 
the  Ecole  Polytechnic  and  other  wonderful  buildings  to  the 
Pantheon,  where  great  Frenchmen  are  buried.  We  saw  the 
Palace  of  the  Senate  and  a  beautiful  Park  surrounding  it. 

Thus  one  thing  after  another  springs  up  most  unexpectedly 
and  each  one  of  great  historic  interest.  Owing  to  the  rainy 
cold  weather  we  have  been  disappointed  in  excursions  to  St. 
Cloud,  St.  Denis  and  many  other  places  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. However  some  of  these  days  you  and  Cliff  must  come 
over  here  and  travel  and  see  all  these  fine  things  with  your 
own  eyes. 

Last  night  your  Mother  took  me  to  the  Cafe  "Diner  de 
Paris"  in  one  of  the  Arcades  on  the  Boulevard  Montmartre, 
dinner  at  50  cts.  and  very  good,  but  everything  so  different 
from  home.  We  had  lots  of  fun  and  ate  odd  French  dishes. 
The  Artichokes  were  splendid  and  quite  new  to  me.  Fruit 
here  is  superb.  Cantaloupes,  Peaches,  Pears,  Plums  and  Grapes 
and  in  profusion,  though  expensive.  You  would  like  the  food, 
it  is  all  cooked  with  such  a  delicious  flavor.  We  take  a  simple 
breakfast  and  lunch  and  I  drink  but  little  wine,  altho  wine 
here  is  served  as  part  of  the  dinner.  The  table  d'hote  begins 
about  6.30  and  is  quite  an  elaborate  meal  and  about  60  or  70 
sit  down  in  a  pretty  room. 

Nearly  every  person  in  the  house  is  English  or  American, 
but  you  might  think  they  were  all  condemned  to  silence  there 
is  such  an  entire  absence  of  fun  or  intercourse.  Your  Mother 
goes  ahead,  however,  and  how  she  is  going  to  get  things  home 
is  a  mystery  to  me.     She  buys  for  the  house  principally. 

Well  dinner  is  ready  so  I  will  run.  I  send  this  to  1905  as 
you  will  either  be  there  by  the  time  it  comes  or  they  can  for- 
ward it.    Tomorrow  we  go  to  the  Opera.    We  leave  here  about 

345 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

the  22nd  or  23rd  for  Havre  and  sail  at  8  a.  m.  on  the  25th 
and  are  due  in  N.  Y.  late  Oct.  ist  or  carh'  Oct.  2nd,  French 
Line.     Good  b}'e, 


Affv 


F.  H.  R. 


The  Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  Tuesday,  Sept.  14,  1S97. 
Dear  Cliff  and  Sam, 

Here  it  is  cold  enough  to  wear  thick  winter  clothing  and  an 
overcoat  at  night.  Your  Mother  keeps  well  and  works  hard 
at  her  shopping  and  dress  making  and  must  be  pretty  near 
bankrupt  b\'  this  time. 


THE  ROMAN  ARCH,  RHEIMS 


We  have  just  returned  from  a  two-days'  outing  to  Com- 
piegne,  Pierrefonds,  Laon  and  Rheims.  Compiegne  is  a  won- 
derful Chateau  of  Napoleon  1st,  with  a  Park  and  Forest  of 
48,000  acres.  We  drove  from  there  to  Pierrefonds  where  Napo- 
leon HI  restored  a  curious  but  grand  old  castle,  which,  while 
quite  modern  in  look,  exactly  represents  the  former  structure. 
Laon  has  a  very  interesting  church  on  a  hill  like  Mont  St. 
Michel,  coming  up  out  of  a  flat  plain.  Rheims  has  several 
fine  churches  and  a  Roman  arch.  Your  Mother,  of  course, 
saw  them  very  quickly  but  enjoyed  it  immensely. 

346 


FRAX'CE 


COURT  OF  CASTLE  PIERREFOXDS,  NEAR  COMPIEGNE 


COMPIEGXE,  FROM  THE  PALACE 


347 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  shall  probably  leave  here  on  the  22nd  or  23rd  for  Havre, 
and  be  with  Mr.  Thackara,  the  Consul,  there  on  the  23rd  and 
24th,  so  if  necessary  )'OU  could  wire  us  to  his  care  but  I  hope 
there  will  be  no  occasion  to  do  so. 


A  Curious  Ancient  Town,  Now  (191 7)  Headquarters  of  the  German  Army 

I  will  be  with  you  in  i8  days  I  hope  and  then  we  can  have 
some  good  talks  and  enjoyable  times  together. 

Affy.  as  ever,  F.  H.  R. 

My  photos  of  Hohenstadt  are  capital. 


The  Normandy  Hotel, 
Paris,  17th  Sept.,  1897. 
Dear  Laura, 

This  will  be  my  last  letter,  and  I  ought  to  be  in  bed  now. 
as  I  am  not  at  all  well.  In  fact  I  haven't  been  well  in  Paris  at 
all.  We  went  away  to  Compiegne,  Pierrefonds,  Laon  and 
Rheims,  and  were  gone  Sunday  and  Monday. 

348 


FRANCE 


^ih"^ 


SALON.  CHATEAU  de  COMPIEGNE 


THE  CATHEDRAL,  RHEIMS 
349 


EIGHT  JOURXEYS  ABROAD 

The  other  young  Adchiiann  came  to-night  on  his  way  home 
from  England.  He  looks  a  little  like  George  and  has  his  voice 
exactly — is  very  nice  but  looks  very  delicate.  We  leave  Paris 
Thursday,  23rd,  and  stay  over  night  at  Rouen  and  will  dine 


ABOARD  T 


with  the  Thackaras  Friday  night  at  Havre.     I  can't  tell  you 
how  I  dread  the  trip  home.    Good  bye,  wuth  love  to  all, 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 


Hotel  Normandy,  Sunday,  Sept.  19,  1897. 
Dear  Gliff  axd  Sam, 

This;  is  our  last  Sunday  on  this  side  and  the  da}'s  fly  away 
quickly;  We  were  surprised  to  have  a  telegram  from  Count 
Sigmund  Adelmann  from  Margate,  saying  he  would  visit  us 
here  and  so  on  Friday  night  he  arrived.  He  is  blond  and 
smaller  than  Raban  but  is  a  very  bright  manly  fellow  and 
enjoys  sight  seeing  with  your  Mother.  As  we  leave  on  Thurs- 
day for  Rouen  and  Havre  he  w^ill  not  have  very  long  with  us. 

350 


FRANCE 

He  goes  to  Berlin  in  October  to  hear  the  law  lectures  and 
next  year  passes  his  first  examinations,  then  he  goes  into  some 
position  for  three  years  and  makes  a  second  examination  and 
gets  into  a  government  position.    It  is  quite  a  different  sort  of 


THE  "TOURAINE" 


thing  in  Germany  to  study  law,  from  our  methods,  doubtless 
owing  to  the  immense  numbers  of  University  men  and  the 
competition  for  a  career. 

Naturally  I  think  much  of  home  and  you  and  Sam  and 
hope  you  have  cooler  weather  and  that  Sam  arrived  safely 
on  the  Acme. 

Report  to  Uncle  Harry  and  the  others  our  welfare  and  that 
I  hope  Dolphy  and  young  Mitchell  did  not  have  to  go  to  the 
coal  regions  with  the  City  Troop  for  the  coal  strike.  So  good 
bye  and  best  wishes  and  love  from  your  Alother  and  me  and 
greetings  to  you  from  Count  Sigmund  Adelmann. 

Aflfy.,  F.  H.  R. 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1900 


23 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1900 

With  the  Paris  Exposition  as  a  great  attraction,  the 
writer  with  her  husband  and  two  sons  sailed  in  May  aboard 
the  Steamship  St.  Paul  and  landed  at  Southampton,  thence 
going  to  the  New  Forest,  Winchester,  and  London. 

The  Exposition  in  Paris  more  than  fulfilled  anticipations. 

The  unveiling  of  the  monument  to  Rochambeau  at  Ven- 
dome  made  the  visit  there  memorable  and  the  cordial  greet- 
ings of  the  Marquise  de  Rochambeau  more  firmly  cemented 
the  old  friendship  with  her. 

The  customary  visit  to  Hombourg  and  the  "Kur"  there 
and  thence  the  trip  to  Sigmaringen  to  visit  the  Count  and 
Countess  Adelmann,  followed.  In  order  to  give  the  Count- 
ess Adelmann  opportunity  to  prepare  for  the  silver  wedding 
at  the  Castle  at  Hohenstadt,  the  journey  to  Munich,  the  castles 
of  the  King  of  Bavaria  and  to  Innsbruck  and  by  the  beautiful 
Fern  Pass  to  Neuschwanstein  and  to  the  Passion  Play  at 
Oberammergau,  was  undertaken,  while  the  Countess  moved 
her  household  from  Sigmaringen  to  Hohenstadt. 

The  Silver  Wedding  at  Schloss  Hohenstadt  was  a  memor- 
able function  and  at  the  dinner  nearly  a  hundred  telegrams 
of  congratulation  were  read,  among  them  ones  from  Emperor 
William,  the  King  of  Wurtemberg,  the  Prince  of  Hohen- 
zollern  and  other  distinguished  friends  of  the  bridal  pair. 

Then  followed  the  visits  to  Switzerland,  the  Vosges 
(where  war  scenes  of  1914-1917  are  now  progressing),  Paris 
and  the  return  to  America. 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  1900 

S.  S.  ST.  PAUL 


Rough  Weather May  24,  1900 

Young    Swedish    woman 

washed  overboard May  24,  1900 

Grand   Hotel,  Lyndhurst, 

New  Forest May  26,  1900 

Winchester       and        the 

Cathedral May  26,  1900 

Beautiful    flowers    and 

shrubs,  etc May  26,  1900 

"Bewley  Abbey";  Beau- 
lieu,  Home  of  Lord 
Montague May  26,  1900 

Stony  Cross  and  Sir  Wm. 
Harcourt's  House May  26,  1900 

London June    7,  1900 

Paris,    Hotel    Columbia. June    7,  1900 

Terrible      crossing     from 

Dover  to  Calais June    7,  1900 

Vendome  and  the  un- 
veiling of  the  Monu- 
ment of  Rochambeau  June    7,  1900 

The  ceremonies  and  cor- 
dial greetings  of  the 
Countess  Rochambeau. June    7,  1900 

General    Horace    Porter. June    7,  1900 

Escorted  by  town  author- 
ities  June    7,  1900 

Homes  of  Guzman-Bianco 

and  Queen   Isabella.  .  .June    7,1900 

Infanta  Eulalia June    7,  1900 

Paris  Exposition  of  1900  .June     7,1900 

Palais    des    Beaux    Arts, 

Arc  de  Triomphe June    7,  1900 

Mrs.  Eads  Hazard's  break- 
fast at  Cafe  d'Armen- 
onville June  22,  1900 

Hunting    and    purchasing 

tapestries June  22,  1900 

Gladys    Unger    and     her 

portraits  of  us June  22,  1900 

Julian's  studio June  22,  1900 

Interesting  visits  to  Ger- 
ome,  Bouguereau  and 
Jan  Van  Beers June  22,  1900 

Shown  through  the  homes  June  22,  1900 

Theatre  des  Danses, 
cafes,  pavilions  and 
trip  to  Peking  on  the 
Trans  Siberian,  Train 
de  Luxe June  22,  1900 

Sarah        Bernhardt        in 

L'Aiglon June  22,  1900 

"Andalusia"  at  the  Ex- 
position  June  22,  1900 


359      Tea  at  "Ceylon,"  Coffee 

at  Spanish  Restaurant  July     i,  1900    370 

359  Wonderful  Swiss  Village  July     i,  1900    370 
Rue  des  Nations  and  the 

360  Foreign  Pavilions July     i,  1900    371 

4th  of  July  at  the  Ambas- 

360  sador's July     7,1900    372 

Hombourg,  via  Metz  and 
362  Mayence July     7,  1900    372 

Royal      Hotel     Victoria  July     7,  1900    372 

Cool  weather July    7,  1900    372 

362       Lugano July  11,  1900    373 

Hombourg July  22,  1900    374 

362  Saalburg July  22,  1900    375 

363  Koenigstein July  22,  1900    375 

363       Cronberg July  22,  1900    375 

Empress  Frederick's    cas- 

363  tie July  22,  1900    376 

Palace  Hotel,  St.  Moritz  July  23,  1900    376 
Meeting  Twombleys  and 

364  Vanderbilts July  23,  1900    376 

Anxiety  about  War  with 

China July  23,  1900    377 

364       Hombourg July  27,  1900    377 

364      Kaiser  Wilhelm's  energy  July  27,  1900    378 

Hardtwood July  27,  1900    378 

364       Frederichs-Dorf July  27,  1900    378 

Koenigstein July  27,  1900    378 

366       Sigmaringen Aug.    3,  1900    379 

366       Sousa's    Band    at    Frank- 

366  furt Aug.    3,  1900    379 

Intense  heat Aug.    3,  1900    379 

366  Stuttgart Aug.    3,  1900    379 

Death  of  King  of  Italy  Aug.    3,  1900    380 
Innsbruck,    Hotel    Tirol  Aug.  11,  1900    380 

367  Castle  Ambass Aug.  11,  1900    381 

Perplexing  currency Aug.  11,  1900    381 

367  Hall  Imst Aug.  13,  1900    383 

Nassareit Aug.  13,  1900    383 

368  Fern  Pass Aug.  13,  1900    383 

368      Tegern  See Aug.  20,  1900    385 

Neuschwanstein,          fres- 
coes, etc Aug.  24,  1900    390 

368       Castle  Hohenschwangau.Aug.  24,  1900    392 

368  Oberammergau Aug.  24,  1900    392 

Drive  through  Forests.  .  .Aug.  24,  1900    392 
The     Passion     Play,     de- 
scription of  Munich.  .  .Aug.  24,  1900    393 

Hohenstadt Aug.  25,  1900    395 

369  Silver  Wedding Aug.  25,  1900    395 

Altar  in  the  Church Aug.  25,  1900    397 

369       The    Silver    Wedding    of 
Count     and     Countess 
369  Adelmann Aug.  25,  1900    397 

357 


INDEX 


1900 

402 

1900 

402 

1900 

402 

1900 

404 

1900 

403 

1900 

403 

1900 

403 

The   "  B  a  u  m  k  u  c  h  e  n  " 

from  Ponicrania Aug.  25,  1900    399 

The  Dinner  and  Curi- 
ous old  musicians   Aug.  25,  1900    399 

Manoeuvres  and  Aus- 
trian Soldiers Aug.  25,  1900    402 

General         Von         Cam- 

erer's    Reveille Aug.  25, 

Uhlans Aug.  25, 

Count  Szeil Aug.  25, 

Fireworks Aug.  25, 

Decorating   band    leader  Aug.  25, 

Departure  of  the  troops  Aug.  25, 

Splendor  of  soldiers Aug.  25, 

96  Telegrams  of  con- 
gratulations from  the 
Kaiser,  King  of  Wur- 
temberg,  Prince  of 
Hohenzollern,  etc Aug.  25,  1900    400 

Old     Tubingen      student 

songs Aug.  25,  1900 

The  Regimental  Band.  .    Aug.  25,  1900 

Presenting  red,  white 
and  blue  asters  to 
band  master Aug.  25,  19CX) 

Wonderful  uniforms Aug.  25,  1900 

Beautiful  songs  by  vil- 
lage   choir    and    band  Aug.  25,  1900 

Play  at  the  Kindergarten  Aug.  26,  1900 

Castle  and  garden  of 
Baron  Konig  and  its 
treasures Aug.  26,  1900 

Pheasant  shooting Aug.  29,  1900 

Ellwangen       and       Adel- 

mannsfelden Aug.  29,  1900    406 


402 
403 


403 
403 

404 
404 


40s 
406 


Laubach  in  Leinthal Aug. 

Dungeons Aug. 

Purchases  of  antiquities 
there,      ciiurch      lamp, 
etc Sept. 

Lucerne Sept. 

Constance,    Insel     Hotel  Sept. 

Zurich,  Land  Museum.  .  .Sept. 

Duse Sept. 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Pilatus.  .  .  .Sept. 

Letter  from  top  of  Moun- 
tain   Sept. 

Munster Sept. 

Hotel  Altenberg Sept. 

Basle,  Colmar Sept. 

Schlucht  and  Munster 
Thai Sept. 

Gerardmer Sept. 

Hotel  du  Lac Sept. 

Oberrheinheim Sept. 

Odilienberg Sept. 

Strassburg Sept. 

Metz  and  the  Battle- 
iields  of  1870,  and 
Cathedral Sept. 

Treves,  Roman  ruins.  .  .  .Sept. 

Marquis  of  Salisbury.  .  .  .Sept. 

Beauties  of  the  Vosges 
region Sept. 

Hotel  Porta  Nigra, 
Trier Sept. 

Regiment  of  Artillery.  .  .  .Sept, 

Gravelotte Sept. 

Paris Sept, 

Bedford  Hotel Sept. 

Hotel  France  and  Choi- 
seul Sept. 


29, 

1900 

408 

29, 

1900 

408 

2, 

1900 

409 

b, 

1900 

410 

■  <^, 

1900 

410 

6, 

1900 

411 

6, 

1900 

411 

6, 

1900 

411 

7. 

1900 

412 

9, 

1900 

412 

II, 

1900 

413 

11) 

1900 

413 

•  II, 

1900 

413 

-II, 

1900 

413 

•II, 

1900 

413 

•II, 

1900 

413 

•II, 

1900 

413 

•II, 

1900 

413 

•II, 

1900 

413 

•II, 

1900 

413 

■11, 

1900 

413 

■13, 

1900 

414 

•IS, 

1900 

414 

•IS, 

1900 

415 

•IS, 

1900 

41  s 

.18, 

1900 

416 

.18, 

1900 

416 

.18, 

1900 

417 

ENGLAND 


Grand  Hotel,   Lyndhurst,  New  Forest 

May  24th,  1900. 
Dear  Fanny, 

As  you  see  we  are  here  after  many  efforts,  and  think  we 
are  In  heaven,  or  did  last  night.  As  it  is  raining  this  morning 
we  are  a  little  discouraged,  for  we  expected  to  see  everything 
in  one  drive  and  move  on  to  Winchester  and  London  to-morrow. 

We  left  New  York  in  perfect  weather  which  continued 
several  days,  but  then  it  got  terribly  rough  and  we  had  great 
waves  following  the  ship,  which  swept  off  a  poor  young 
Swedish  woman  and  (altho  the  ship  turned  around  and  threw 
buoys)  she  was  overwhelmed  by  an  enormous  wave  and  not 
seen  again.  The  turning  of  that  great  ship  in  that  awful  sea 
was  something  wonderful.  The  whole  thing  cast  such  a  gloom 
over  the  ship's  company  we  could  hardly  wait  to  get  off  it. 

We  came  right  out  here  by  the  first  train,  as  the  boys 
wanted  to  and  it  is  a  little  Eden.  I  wonder  if  this  is  where 
you  stopped — it  is  a  nobleman's  estate  changed  into  a  hotel, 
but  is  badly  misnamed.  It  is  narrow  and  long  with  doors 
opening  to  the  lawn,  and  such  a  lawn  and  trees,  rhododendrons, 
in  full  bloom!  The  back  of  the  house  is  covered  with  a  mag- 
nolia, with  glossy  pointed  leaves,  with  wistaria  and  Banksia 
rose  vine,  which  has  clusters  of  tiny  yellow  roses. 

After  dinner,  beautifully  served  at  small  tables,  we  went 
into  the  hall  room  where  there  was  a  coal  fire,  as  it  is  cold  and 

3S9 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

looks  as  if  it  were  in  for  a  rainy  day.     I  will  let  you  know 

what  we  do  in  London.     With  love  to  all  and  hoping  to  hear 

from  you  soon. 

Aflfly,  yours  M.  D.  R. 

Grand  Hotel,  Lyndhurst,  New  Forest. 
Saturday,  May  26th,  1900. 
Dear  Fanny  and  All, 

Here  we  are  still,  having  come  from  Southampton  for  a 
rest  and  a  fine  resting  place  it  is,  but  oh!  so  cold!     I  wear 


CRAXIJ  HOTEL,  LVXDHURST,  NEW  FOREST 

the  thickest  Winter  clothing  and  sleep  under  layers  of  heavy 
blankets. 

Mary  is  in  fine  shape.  Cliff"  too,  Sam  better,  but  not  yet 
himself.  Cliff  went  to  London  this  morning  to  arrange  our 
lodgings,  get  the  trunks,  etc.,  and  we  go  tomorrow  to  Win- 
chester to  service  at  the  Cathedral  and  a  drive  around  in  the 

afternoon  and  reach  London  in  time  for  dinner. 

360 


ENGLAND 


BEAULIEU  ABBEY 


WHERE  WILLIAM  RUFUS  FELL.  NEW  FOREST 
361 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  have  some   nice   Americans    here. 

We  drove  through  the  Forest  yesterday  to  "Bewley'' — 
Beau  Lieu  by  rights — saw  the  home  of  Lord  Montague. 
In  the  afternoon  to  Stony  Cross,  saw  Sir  Wm.  Harcourt's 
house  and  the  big  oaks,  took  tea  at  a  Forester's  Lodge  and 
got  back  to  a  good  dinner. 

What  a  contrast  it  all  is  to  things  American.     Here  the 

birds   are  endless,  the  flowers  fascinating,  hawthorne,  gorse, 

roses,  wistaria  and  the  rhododendron  in  great  profusion.  Mary 

is  more  enthusiastic  about  travel  than  ever  and  beams  upon 

us  all. 

Affectionately  Frank. 


FRANCE 

Hotel  Columbia,  Paris, 
June  7th,  1900. 
Dear  Laura, 

Frank  and  I  left  London  last  Friday  in  a  terrible  North 
Easter,  and  had  a  daisy  time  crossing  from  Dover  to  Calais. 
I  think  it  was  the  wettest  day  I  ever  saw  and  we  were  much 
more  exposed  to  the  rain  than  I  expected.  We  found  the 
boat  French  and  different,  and  were  lucky  to  get  a  cabin 
costing  seven  dollars  and  a  half  for  the  hour  and  twenty  min- 
utes, but  it  was  worth  it  to  keep  our  baggage  dry  and  we  had 
comfortable  sofas. 

I  lay  flat  on  my  back  and  when  I  thought  I  couldn't  stand 
it  any  longer  got  up  and  tried  but  was  not  able  to  do  much 
and  in  consequence  have  been  upset  ever  since,  until  now.  I 
begin  to  think  I  am  a  good  sailor,  as  the  waves  poured  over 
the  deck  and  the  motion  was  terrible  and  I  could  hear  people 
sick  all  around  us. 

We  got  here  and  found  nice  rooms  and  comfortable  beds 
and  a  good  dinner.  The  Hotel  is  small  and  we  have  one  side 
of  this  floor  with  bath,  practically  to  ourselves.  We  have  our 
trunks  in  the  passage  way  between  the  front  and  back  rooms 
and  have  plenty  of  room  for  our  things.  It  was  a  great  change 
from  London  and  I  had  to  put  on  my  summer  things,  the  sun 
shone  so  hot.  We  went  to  church  in  the  Avenue  de  1  Alma  Sunday 

363 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

morning  and  met  Dr.  K,  who  walked  back  with  us  and  took 
us  in  en  route  to  the  new  Hotel  du  Palais  on  the  Champs 
Elysees. 

Monday  morning  we  got  up  at  5.30  and  went  to  the  Gare 
d'Orleans  a  three  quarter  hour  ride  and  took  the  train  to 
Vendome,  a  ride  of  5  hours  and  found  the  place  all  decorated 


GENERAL  HORACE  PORTER 

Then  U.  S.  Ambassador  to  France 


and  went  (after  lunch  at  the  dirtiest  hotel  I  ever  saw)  to  see 

the  statue  of  Rochambeau  unveiled.    We  were  conducted  by 

some  of  the  town  notables  to  the  Estrade  and  there  saw  the 

Marquise  who  made  us  sit  on  the  front  row  beside  her.    On 

the  opposite  side  were  Horace  Porter,  our  Aiinister,  and  Count 

Rochambeau  and  a  distinguished  Admiral  of  the  French  Navy 

and  some  Generals,  &c. 

-^64 


FRANCE 

There  were  military  bands  and  choirs  of  singers  from  Paris 
and  decorations  galore.  Gen'l.  Porter  had  come  down  the 
ni^ht  before  and  stayed  at  the  Chateau  and  had  taken  part 


REPLICA  AT  WASHINGTON,  D.  C,  OF  THE  MONUMENT  OF  ROCHAMBEAU  AT 

VENDOME 

in  a  mass  celebrated  in  the  Cathedral  during  the  morning. 
He  and  his  secretary  and  the  father-in-law  of  the  Marquise 
took  up  the  available  bed  rooms  there.     They  begged  us  to 

365 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

come  after  the  ceremony  of  unveiling  to  the  Chateau,  where  a 
lunch  was  to  be  served, — flowers  put  on  the  tomb  ot  the 
Marquis  I  knew,  &c.,  but  we  knew  it  would  be  impossible  for 
us  to  stay  in  that  hotel  over  night,  so  there  was  nothing  to 
do  but  to  come  back. 

Some  Americans  went  down  in  the  train  with  us  but  of 
course  didn't  know  who  we  were, — a  Col.  Huntington,  and 
Col.  Chaille  Long,  &c.,  who  were  most  polite  after  they  found 
out  who  we  were  and  saw  us  sitting  with  the  Marquise.  I 
was  disappointed  to  give  up  going  to  the  Chateau,  but  between 
the  heat  and  fatigue  had  to  let  it  go. 

Last  evening  (Wednesday)  the  boys  arrived  from  London. 
They  both  like  the  hotel,  are  satisfied  with  the  situation  and 
the  food  is  excellent.  I  went  to  the  Louvre  store  day  before 
yesterday  as  I  needed  some  gloves  and  I  got  slippers  (felt) 
like  mine  and  yours  for  Frank  and  Cliff  and  a  parasol. 

In  the  evening  Frank  and  Sam  and  I  walked  around  in 
the  neighborhood.  Guzman-Bianco  lives  on  the  opposite  cor- 
ner and  we  saw  the  magnificent  dining  room  with  carved 
wood  panels.  Queen  Isabella's  palace  is  on  the  other  corner. 
The  Infanta  Eulalia  is  there  at  present  and  is  getting 
divorced.  This  morning  I  went  with  Frank  and  Sam  to 
where  he  has  his  baths  and  then  to  the  Exposition  and  went 
all  through  the  Petit  Palais  des  Beaux  Arts,  came  back  in  an 
omnibus  to  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  and  walked  down  here.  I 
shall  go  this  p.  m.  either  to  order  some  things  or  with  Sam, 
if  he  will  take  a  chair  and  ride  awhile  in  the  exhibition. 

Everything  is  hard  work  here,  the  crowds  are  so  great 
and  the  streets  almost  impossible.  The  coachmen  don't  want 
to  go  by  the  hour  and  the  omnibuses  are  always  full. 

Love  to  all,  Affly,  M.  D.  R. 


FRANCE 

Hotel  Columbia,  Paris, 

June  22nd,  1900. 
Dear  Laura, 

It  seems  almost  impossible  to  get  time  to  write  here  and 

now  that  the  time  is  getting  short  I  want  to  be  out  all  the 

time.    We  have  had  a  delightful  week.    I  don't  know  whether 

I  wrote  you  that  I  had  written  to  Mrs.  Hazard  (Addie  Eads) 

to  let  her  know  that  I  was  here.     She  responded  immediately 

and  has  been  just  as  kind  as  possible  ever  since.     The  first 

day  she  took  me  out  to  do  some  errands  and  then  we  drove 


iantii.lv 


through  the  Bois  all  the  way  to  Sevres  and  went  through  the 
Factory  and  then  came  back  to  the  Cafe  d'Armenonville  and 
had  a  delicious  breakfast  in  a  most  beautiful  spot. 

The  climate  is  so  heavenly  here,  there  is  always  just  enough 
cool  breeze  to  prevent  suffering  with  the  heat.  Since  then  she 
has  been  out  with  me  a  whole  day  looking  at  tapestries,  lace 
shades  and  bedspreads,  table  cloths,  &c.  Her  apartment 
is   furnished    magnificently   in   the   French   style — she   is   at 

367 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

home  Sunday  afternoons  this  month.  Frank  and  Cliff  went 
there  last  Sunday  at  six,  after  we  got  back  from  Chantilly, 
but  I  was  so  tired  I  could  not  do  anything. 

I  find  I  cannot  write  in  the  evenings  because  I  am  so  tired. 

Over  a  week  ago  we  paid  all  our  calls.  Walter  Douglas' 
sister  introduced  us  to  a  Miss  Unger,  who  is  studying  art 
here  and  she  took  us  to  Julian's  studio,  where  I  saw  a   life 


i 


'1 


EXPOSITIUX,  PARIS,  1900 

class  all  women  and  a  man  model,  and  it  didn't  shock  me  at 

all,  and  she  also  gave  us  a  great  treat  by  taking  us  to  see 

Gerome  and  Bouguereau,  the  two  painters  Frank  has  always 

admired  the  most.     Gerome's  studio  was  very  fine  and  filled 

with  beautiful  things,  and  he  was  the  grandest  man  I  ever 

saw.      He  now  spends  more  time  modeling  statues  than  in 

painting,  but  everything  he  does  is  wonderful.    We  also  saw 

his  whole  house  and  Bouguereau's  also,  which  has  a  beautiful 

garden. 

368 


FRANCE 

We  had  these  girls  to  dinner  afterwards  and  then  all  went 
to  the  Exposition  and  saw  the  Theatre  des  Danses  (dances 
of  all  nations)  in  the  Rue  de  Paris,  and  then  sat  out  on  a 
Terrace  over  the  river  at  one  of  the  Cafes.  The  Cafes  are 
down  under  the  different  Pavilions,  close  to  the  river  on 
both  sides.  Last  night  Cliif  and  I  went  to  see  Sarah  Bern- 
hardt in  L'Aiglon  by  Rostand,  the  story  of  the  Due  de  Reich- 
stadt,  son  of  the  first  Napoleon. 

We  all,  with  Mrs.  H,  are  going  to  the  Exhibition  to-night 
to  see  "Andalusia  in  the  Time  of  the  Moors."  At  the  Spanish 
cafe  under  the  Spanish  Pavillion  on  the  Rue  des  Nations  the 
other  side  of  the  river,  they  have  dancing  and  orchestra 
during  dinner  and  all  evening,  also  at  the  Russian,  German 
and  Swedish  cafes,  and  these  are  packed  full  every  night 
besides  every  restaurant  in  the  city  and  in  the  Bois  and  at 
all  the  Hotels.  Before  the  Grand  Prix  it  was  necessary  to 
engage  a  table  at  the  German  restaurant  three  weeks  ahead. 

I  don't  find  the  gloves  at  5  francs  here  much  better  than 

the  gloves  at  home.    Of  course  you  see  pretty  things  but  they 

are  all  very  dear. 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 

We  do  not  yet  know  where  we  go  from  here,  but  Sam  will 

visit  St.  Moritz. 

Hotel  Columbia,  Paris, 

July  1st,  1900. 
Dear  Fanny, 

I  have  wanted  to  write,  but  you  cannot  know  what  it  is 
to  have  the  care  of  three  men,  who  don't  know  how  to  care 
for  themselves  without  a  maid  or  valet,  and  try  to  see  an 
Exhibition  and  see  visitors  and  do  Paris  at  the  same  time. 

I  have  been  very  well  and  have  to-day  only  a  little  sick 
headache,  which  I  know  perfectly  well  I  can  attribute  to 
indulging  in  afternoon  tea  and  chocolate  and  good  things 
generally  at  the  Exhibition  afternoons.  It  is  astonishing  to 
see  every  cafe  and  tea  place  filled  to  overflowing  w^ith  people 
taking  tea. 

24  369 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  know  Frank  has  told  you  a  great  deal  about  the  Exposi- 
tion as  to  exterior  and  exhibits.  I  find  one  of  the  greatest 
attractions  is  to  loaf  about  and  sit  down  and  watch  the  people 
and  take  tea  at  Ceylon  or  at  the  English  cafe  or  lunch  at  the 
German  restaurant  (the  fashionable  thing  to  do),  or  take 
coffee  or  an  ice  at  the  Spanish  restaurant,  where  there  is  a 
stage  and  Spanish  dancers  and  singing  afternoon  and  evening, 
or  to   spend   an  evening  in   "Andalusia  in   the  Time  of  the 


RUE  DES  NATIONS,  PARIS  EXPOSITION,  1900 


Moors,"  and  see  real  Spanish  dances  of  the  people,  on  one 
side,  and  on  the  other  tournaments  and  tilts  between  Moors 
and  Spaniards  on  horses  and  camels. 

Another  delightful  afternoon  was  spent  in  the  Swiss 
village,  which  is  a  most  wonderful  illusion,  with  real  rocks, 
mountain  high  and  green  grass,  and  valleys  and  shepherdess 
huts  way  up  on  the  hills  and  waterfalls  and  old  houses  and 
chalets  reproduced,  shops,  cafes,  stables  with  real  cows  and 
milk  to  sell,  and  a  little  church. 

After  an  hour  or  two  of  hard  work  in  the  art  galleries  or 

370 


FRANCE 

exhibits,  such  a  scene  is  very  restful  and  one  carries  away  a 
pleasant  impression.  The  river  runs  between  the  Rue  des 
Nations  on  one  side  with  the  foreign  pavilions,  and  the  Rue 
de  Paris  on  the  other.  The  latter  is  lined  with  theatres  and 
restaurants  and  is  very  fashionable  at  night.  The  foreign 
pavilions  have  their  restaurants  underneath  and  all  have 
music,  so  it  is  very  gay  at  lunch  time  and  dinner  time. 

Another  experience  was  sitting  in  the  Trans-Siberian  train 
de  luxe  and  having  lunch  in  the  dining  car,  while  travelling 
from  Moscow  to  Pekin;  the  illusion  is  perfect;  the  scenery 
moves  while  the  train  is  stationary.  All  is  very  elegant  and 
you  come  out  into  the  Chinese  pavilion  and  restaurant 
where  there  are  Chinese  servants  with  long  pig  tails  and 
queer  hats  and  always  the  same  gayety. 

Miss  Douglas  is  very  nice  and  she  introduced  us  to  a  Miss 
linger,  an  art  student  here,  who  has  taken  us  to  Gerome's, 
Boug-ereau's  and  Jan  Van  Beers'  studios  and  also  Julian's. 
This  was  a  great  treat  and  the  houses  also  superb.  Gerome 
is  magnificent  and  his  work  the  same.  Van  Beers'  house 
something  wonderful  but  Monte  Cristo  like.  I  have  never 
dreamed  of  such  houses  as  I  have  seen  here. 

At  last  we  have  decided  on  our  future  movements.  We 
all  leave  here  Thursday,  July  5th,  Frank  and  Sam  go  to  Basle 
and  spend  the  night,  then  on  to  Lucerne  and  in  a  day  or  two 
across  the  lake  to  Burgenstock  and  spend  a  week  at  the  big 
Hotel  half  way  up  the  mountain  to  get  accustomed  to  the 
high  air.  Then  they  go  to  Lugano,  Chiavenna  and  over  the 
Maloja  Pass  to  St.  Moritz.  Cliif  and  I  go  to  Hombourg  for 
my  three  weeks'  cure,  as  I  need  it  very  much.  I  prefer  going 
with  the  others  but  think  it  best  to  go  to  Hombourg. 

Affly.  yours,  M.  D.  R. 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Bad-Hombourg. 

July  7th,  1900. 
Dear  Laura, 

Of  course  you  know  how  hard  it  was  at  Paris  to  get  a 
chance  to  write,  with  going  to  the  Exhibition  and  out  to  all 
sorts  of  things.  At  the  4th  of  July  reception  at  Mr.  Porter's, 
the  American  Ambassador,  Frank  met  the  Christophersons 
(who  were  married  in  Philadelphia  during  the  Centennial), 
and  they  were  most  cordial,  and  she  said  if  she  had  only 
known  we  were  in  Paris  she  could  have  done  a  great  deal 
for  us. 

Frank  and  Sam  left  Paris  Thursday  morning,  July  5th, 
for  Basle  and  Lucerne  and  are  to  spend  a  week  at  Burgen- 
stock,  a  high  place  across  the  lake  from  Lucerne,  preparatory 
to  going  to  St.  Moritz.  Cliff  and  I  took  the  night  train  the 
same  night  to  Frankfort,  by  way  of  Metz  and  Mayence,  and 
got  here  by  one  o'clock  the  next  day.  We  found  two  nice 
single  rooms  awaiting  us  and  if  it  would  only  get  warm  it 
would  be  perfect,  for  the  Hotel  is  beautifully  kept  and  has 
been  all  fixed  up  inside  and  everything  is  immaculately  clean. 

How  I  wish  we  could  have  this  Hotel  at  Bedford,  but  I 
must  say  the  water  tastes  a  great  deal  better  here  than  the 
Bedford  water,  but  I  miss  the  fires.  It  is  as  cold  as  winter 
here  and  I  am  only  comfortable  in  my  fur  cloak.     There  are 

372 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

very  few  people  here  yet  and  the  Paris  fair  may  interfere  with 
all  these  baths. 

It  was  hard  work  to  get  up  this  morning  with  the  ther- 
mometer at  50  degrees  or  lower  and  go  out  to  drink  3  glasses 
of  cold  water  before  breakfast.  I  am  not  to  begin  the  baths 
for  several  days. 

Grand  Hotel  Splendide,  Lugano. 
Wed.,  July  nth,  1900. 
Dear  Fanny  and  Joe, 

Many  thanks  for  yours  of  the  29th  of  June,  which  found 
us  at  Lucerne  this  morning  before  we  left  at  9.08  to  cross  the 
Gothard,  and  we  arrived  here  at  1.24  to  find  heat  like  we  have 


GRAND  HOTEL,  LAKE  LUGANO 

at  home  and  a  great  contrast  to  the  nasty  damp  cold  rainy 
days  in  Lucerne.  We  spend  the  night  here  and  go  to  Menaggio 
and  Chiavenna  tomorrow  and  leave  Chiavenna  at  7  a.  m. 
on  Friday  for  St.  Moritz.  We  meet  no  home  faces  and  make 
no  acquaintances,  so  we  have  to  rely  on  each  other  for  company. 

373 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

If  St.  Aloritz  benefits  Sam  we  are  likely  to  remain  there 
till  about  the  5th  of  August  and  go  thence  to  Sigmaringen 
for  a  visit,  back  to  Paris  and  I  do  hope  to  sail  on  the  25th  of 
August.  Mary  seems  never  to  tire  of  it  over  here  and  she 
and  Cliflf  are  in  Hombourg,  having  chilly  weather  and  I 
fancy  meeting  few  people  but  taking  the  "Kur"  and  imagin- 
ing she  is  doing  good  for  herself. 

This  is  a  most  picturesque  place  and  so  neat  and  clean, 
but  deserted.  I  fancy  we  are  the  only  guests  in  this  big  house 
and  we  are  seated  in  a  big  room  trying  to  keep  cool  and  await- 
ing five  o'clock  when  we  go  aboard  a  steamboat  for  a  tour 
around  the  Lake. 

You  seem  to  have  had  torrid  weather  in  America  and  a 
good  spell  of  it,  while  we  have  had  thick  winter  clothing  on 
and  been  glad  to  hug  up  to  the  fire. 

We  had  to  give  up  Burgenstock,  the  place  looked  so  for- 
lorn and  damp  and  cold  and  inaccessible,  and  I  hope  the 
change  to  St.  Moritz  will  not  be  too  sudden.  I  fancy  the 
weather  will  be  more  seasonable  from  now  on.  Everyone 
talks  Italian  here  and  a  few  hours  ago  it  was  all  German 
and  yet  all  pride  themselves  on  being  Swiss. 

Sam  joins  me  in  love  to  you  and  all. 

Affy.  Frank. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Bad-Hombourg, 

Sunday,   July  22nd,  1900. 
Dear  Laura  and  Maria, 

I  write  to  you  both  together  because  I  don't  want  to  put 
oflP  writing  to  another  day.  Since  I  wrote  you  last  (when  we 
were  freezing  in  a  cold  rain)  we  have  had  the  most  intense 
heat  I  ever  felt,  and  it  has  been  a  struggle  to  get  up  at  all 
in  the  morning  and  get  down  to  my  bath.  On  returning  I 
was  fairly  swimming  in  perspiration.  No  doubt  it  is  very 
good  for  one. 

Altho  we  are  quite  alone  I  love  this  place  and  the  restful 
quiet  of  it.    I  was  never  made  to  stay  in  cities  in  hot  weather. 

374 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

There  are  two  old  ladies  from  Boston  in  this  Hotel  that 
Gen.  Warren  introduced  to  us  by  the  name  of  Walker — have 
been  identified  with  Harvard,  through  father  or  brother,  and 
are  delightful  people. 

Raban  came  over  from  Wiesbaden  last  Sunday,  and  we 
took  the  trolley  to  the  Saalburg,  had  coffee  and  came  home  to 
late  dinner.  This  Sunday  morning  he  came  partly  on  his 
bicycle  and  partly  by  train  to  spend  the  day  and  it  is  just 
beginning  to  rain,  so  I  suppose  he  will  have  to  go  back  by 
train.      His    sister   Alechtilde   is    visiting   near   Bonn   on    the 


KOENIGSTEIX 


Rhine  and  we  have  just  come  to  the  conclusion  that  we  will 
go  direct  to  Sigmaringen  from  here  and  take  her  home  with  us 
and  perhaps  go  after  a  visit  of  4  days  to  meet  Frank  and  Sam, 
returning  to  Hohenstadt  for  the  silver  wedding  on  the  17th. 
Clifford  and  I  made  a  beautiful  excursion  after  lunch  on 
Wednesday.  Taking  a  two-horse  carriage  we  drove  through 
the  pine  woods,  up  and  down  hill  to  Koenigstein,  where  there 
is  a  magnificent  ruin,  on  a  very  high  point  above  the  town 
and  which  I  climbed  up  to.  It  was  a  royal  residence  and 
fortress  destroyed  by  the  French  in  1796.  Then  we  took 
coffee  in  the  town  and  came  back  by  the  village  of  Cronberg, 

375 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

a  quaint  place  with  frescoed  houses  and  doll-house  windows. 
Those  old  villages  have  very  steep  roofs,  covered  with  red 
tiles,  and  nothing  could  be  more  beautiful  than  the  view  from 
a  high  point  over  the  dull  red  tiled  roofs,  nestled  among  the 
green  trees.  Nearby  is  the  Empress  Frederick's  new  castle, 
which  we  passed  on  our  return  home. 

It  has  been  too  hot  to  make  any  excursions  since,  so  we 
have  simply  gone  up  in  the  trolley  to  the  Saalburg  and  sat 
there  until  well  cooled  off  and  then  back  again.  There  are 
lots  of  pretty  things  here  to  buy,  but  such  prices,  everything 
is  so  dear.  M.  D.  R. 

Palace  Hotel,  St.  Moritz, 
July  23  rd,  1900,    Monday. 
Dear  Fanny  and  Joe, 

Your  most  welcome  lines  of  the  nth  came  this  morning 
and  were  eagerly  perused.  You  cannot  tell  how  grateful  we 
are  for  your  thought  of  us.  Our  present  plan  now  is  to  leave 
here  on  Thursday  for  Zurich  and  try  to  meet  Cliff  and  Mary 
somewhere,  arrange  our  plans  for  the  visit  to  the  Adelmanns 
and  for  the  remaining  weeks  I  have  on  this  side  Mary  proposes 
a  few  days  in  Sigmaringen  and  to  make  a  trip  somewhere  and 
be  in  Hohenstadt  (Adelmann's  Castle  in  Wurtemburg)  for 
the  Silver  Wedding  about  the   i8th  of  August. 

She  finds  the  heat  in  Hombourg  hardly  bearable,  but 
declares  she  has  enjoyed  herself  there.  So  you  see  trying  to 
arrange  plans  to  be  with  Emma  and  party  and  with  Mary 
and  Cliff  and  then  to  try  to  do  the  best  for  Sam  has  set  us  all 
at  diagonal  points  and  I  endeavor  all  the  time  to  know  what 
to  do  to  accomplish  all.  I  have  written  Mary  Sam  and  I 
expect  to  leave  on  Thursday  for  Thusis  and  Zurich,  remain 
there  anyhow  till  Monday,  the  31st,  and  then!  alas  I  have 
no  plans. 

The  F.  W.  Vanderbilts  and  Twombley  have  been  in  this 
house  four  days.  Sam  cannot  walk  much  and  will  not  drive, 
and  each  afternoon  is  showery  and  we  are  housebound,  so  the 
search  for  health  and  strength  for  him  is  not  a  grand  success. 

376 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

The  anxiety  about  affairs  in  China  does  not  make  any  one 
cheerful  over  here  and  we  dread  the  future,  for  no  one  knows 
what  may  come  of  all  the  horrible  fighting  and  the  political 
events  so  near  the  bursting  point.  Europe  cannot  stand  much 
more   without   a    rupture   and   the   United   States   is  just   as 


PALACE  HOTEL,  ST.  MORITZ 

likely  to  be  embroiled  as  the  other  countries.  The  uncer- 
tainty of  the  future  makes  me  want  to  be  home.  I  cannot 
enjoy  pleasuring  with  the  thought  of  such  anxieties  everywhere 
and  if  nothing  prevents  I  shall  sail  as  anticipated  on  the  25th. 
So  wishing  you  both  pleasurable  experiences  in  New  England 
and  with  love  from  all.  Affy.  Frank. 

Royal  Victoria  Hotel,  Hombourg, 

July  27th,   1900. 
Dear  Fanny, 

The  heat  has  been  intense  here  and  with  the  taking  of  the 
waters  I  have  been  almost  incapacitated.  It  is  very  weakening 
at  the  time  and  I  am  just  getting  over  a  two-day  sick  headache. 

377 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  could  hardly  keep  up  the  necessary  correspondence  with 
f>ank  and  the  temporary  voluminous  one  with  the  Adel- 
manns  as  I  take  the  afternoons  for  a  little  rest,  and  then  out 
again  either  for  a  walk  or  up  to  the  Saalburg  in  the  trolley. 

The  Emperor  Is  too  much  like  an  American  for  anything. 
He  is  just  hustling  things.  He  has  built  this  trolley  and  is 
building  up  the  Roman  Camp  on  the  foundation  walls  to  be 
just  as  it  was  in  Roman  times.  He  already  has  a  sort  of 
drawbridge  at  the  main  gateway  and  serrated  walls  along  the 
front  and  a  piece  of  thorn-wood  patch  such  as  is  described 
in  Julius  Caesar  and  the  restaurant  is  called  Dornholzhause. 

I  have  been  to  several  places  I  did  not  go  before,  walks 
through  the  Hardtwood,  the  other  side  of  the  town  and  to  the 
French  village  Friedrichs-dorf.  One  afternoon  we  took  a 
delightful  drive  to  Koenigstein  and  climbed  up  to  the  ruins, 
which  are  magnificent  and  back  through  the  village  of  Kron- 
berg  and  round  by  the  Empress  Frederick's  castle. 

On  the  Sunday  Raban  Adelmann  came  over  from  Wies- 
baden on  his  bicycle  and  went  back  by  train  and  on  Monday 
Clifford  rode  it  back  over  the  Koenigstein  road  and  had  a 
delightful  ride,  stayed  until  Wednesday  noon.  He  has  gone 
to  Frankfort  to  meet  Mechtilde  Adelmann,  who  will  stay  here 
until  Monday  with  us  when  we  all  go  to  Sigmaringen,  getting 
there  Monday  evening. 

We  have  the  new  Gov.  General  of  Australia  here — looks 
like  a  boy;    Earl  of  Hopetown.     I  must  stop,  so  good  bye. 

Aff.  yours,  M.  D.  R. 

I  will  keep  you  posted  as  to  all  our  movements.  Am 
sorry  I  have  no  more  news  to  tell  you,  but  our  life  here  is 
most  quiet. 

I  hope  you  are  enjoying  the  cottage  and  have  good  food. 
With  much  love  to  all,  and  hoping  for  a  letter  soon  from 
Jamestown. 

Affly,  M.  D.  R. 


378 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

Sigmaringen,  Aug.  3rd,  1900. 
Dear  Laura, 

I  sent  Laura  postal  cards  to-day  because  beautifully 
painted.  She  must  keep  them  as  it  is  quite  the  thing  to  collect 
them.  We  had  quite  a  gay  time  the  last  few  days  of  our 
stay  at  Hombourg.  First  Emma  and  family  arrived  and 
after  we  had  been  so  very  much  alone  it  was  very  nice  to 
have  them  to  talk  to.  Then  Mechtilde  Adelmann,  who  had 
been  visiting  on  the  Rhine,  came  to  us  Friday  27th  and 
stayed  with  us  until  we  came  here  on  Monday.  Sigmund 
brought  her  and  as  he  had  to  go  back  to  W^iesbaden  that 
evening  and  Sousa's  band  was  to  play  that  evening  at  a  big 
garden  in  Frankfort,  we  all,  Sinnicksons,  &c.,  went  in  and 
came  out  on  a  late  train. 

Raban  and  Sigmund  both  came  over  from  Wiesbaden 
Sunday  for  the  day  and  I  had  the  girls  for  lunch  and  Emma 
had  us  all  for  dinner.  The  table  was  beautifully  decorated 
with  roses  and  altogether  very  fine.  We  left  early  Monday 
morning  and  had  lunch  at  Stuttgart  and  came  on  here  at 
eight  o'clock. 

We  are  enjoying  every  minute  of  it,  going  about  in  this 
glorious  climate.  Frank  and  Sam  arrived  an  hour  ahead  of 
us,  so  we  are  all  here  together.  Clifford  and  Mechtilde  and  a 
friend  have  gone  off  on  their  bicycles  to  a  neighboring  village 
to  fish  for  trout,  where  he  got  a  permission  and  the  trout  are 
plentiful.  Unfortunately  the  Prince  and  Court  are  in 
deepest  mourning  for  the  Dowager  Princess  of  Hohenzollern 
and  now  they  have  gone  to  the  funeral  of  the  Duke  of  Coburg, 
who  is  Victoria's  son,  and  was  formerly  Duke  of  Edinburg, 
and  married  the  Czar's  sister.  Their  daughter  is  the  wife  of 
the  Crown  Prince  of  Roumania  and  has  been  entertained  by  the 
Adelmanns  in  this  house.*  I  think  this  is  as  beautiful  country 
as  I  ever  saw  and  the  climate  is  perfect,  almost  2,000  ft.  above 
the  sea.  We  suffered  terribly  with  the  heat  at  Hombourg,  the 
worst  ever  known  there. 

*Now  (1916)  the  Queen  of  Roumania  and  alas!  her  distress  great,  owing  to  the  dread- 
ful War. 

.^79 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Frank  and  Sam  are  quite  decided  to  sail  on  the  25th  of 
this  month  and  I  shall  have  to  give  up  my  southern  trip, 
so  probably  Clifford  and  I  will  return  late  in  October.  We 
go  away  Monday  for  a  little  trip  around  Innsbruck  to  give 
the  Adelmanns  a  chance  to  move  to  Hohenstadt  and  then  we 
meet  on  the  17th  for  the  silver  wedding,  19th,  and  the  boys 
come  from  Wiesbaden  for  their  vacation  and  we  expect  to 
stay  there  for  at  least  ten  days.  Frank  will  leave  21st  and 
Sam  may  not  go  there  at  all  but  go  to  the  Touraine  instead 
and  meet  his  father  at  Cherbourg  for  the  ship.  Emma  and 
little  Fanny  have  gone  on  to  Oberammergau  and  the  girls 
have  stayed  in  Hombourg. 

Isn't  it  terrible  about  the  King  of  Italy?*  We  are  anxious 

for  news  from  China  but  don't  get  much.    I  must  go  to  dinner, 

so  good  bye,  with  love  to  all, 

Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

Flotel  Tirol, 
Innsbruck,  nth  Aug.,  1900. 
Dear  Sam, 

Many  thanks  for  your  two  postal  cards  of  Thursday 
which  came  just  now  telling  of  your  journey  to  Paris  and  meet- 
ing Cliff,  and  of  your  arrangement  for  rooms  at  the  Hotel 
Columbia.  I  am  glad  to  know  of  this  and  will  come  direct  to 
that  Hotel  from  the  Station.  I  do  hope  you  will  have  a  most 
enjoyable  time  in  the  Touraine  and  be  able  to  present  the 
letters  so  you  will  have  some  acquaintances  to  keep  you 
company  and  pick  out  little  excursions. 

If  you  can,  hunt  up  Mrs.  Charlemagne  Towner  at  Tours 
where  she  is  spending  the  summer  with  her  family.  All  you 
have  to  do  is  to  leave  your  card  and  address  and  I  am  sure 
she  will  be  happy  to  see  you  as  she  and  her  husband  are 
always  most  friendly  to  us  and  are  very  nice. 

Here  we  are  having  a  cold  rain  this  morning  and  are  con- 
sequently housebound,  but  this  is  a  nice  hotel,  very  cleanly 

*The  King  of  Italy  had  just  been  assassinated. 

380 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

and  good  food  and  with  Aunt  Emma  and  Fanny  for  company 
we  get  along  nicely  and  will  not  leave  till  Monday. 

We  start  Monday  on  our  return  northward  through  the 
Austrian  and  Bavarian  Tyrol  to  the  wonderful  castle  of  the 
crazy  King  of  Bavaria  and  then  turn  westward  to  Bregenz  and 
Lindau  and  on  to  Ulm  and  Hohenstadt.  On  Monday  we 
have  a  two-hours'  ride  by  rail  to  Imst  and  thence  to  Fiissen, 
a  ten-hours  drive  to  take  all  day.     It  is  said  to  be  very  beau- 


TEGERN  SEE,  TYROL 


tiful  and  I  hope  will  be  a  success,  altho  the  weather  is  fitful 
these  days  and  we  may  be  caught  by  rain.  Innsbruck  is 
certainly  very  beautiful  and  surrounded  entirely  by  snow 
capped  mountains.  Yesterday  afternoon  we  took  a  beautiful 
drive  to  a  very  old  Castle,  Ambass,  near  here,  owned  by  the 
Emperor  of  Austria  and  your  Mother  was  greatly  pleased 
with  the  old  furniture  and  paintings  and  a  fine  display  of 
armor. 

They   have    a    funny   currency   here,    Guldens    worth    40 
cents   are  the   units   divided   into  a   hundred   Kreutzers   and 

381 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


RA 

l^MgC 

w^%^ 

'^^J^^^^HBK' 

^^H  Jfy                            ^^r                     ^^Hft/^^l 

4 

AUSTRIAN  "JAGER"  REGIMENT  IN  THE  FERN  PASS 


CASTLli  AMBASS.  INNSBRUCK 
382 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

now  they  have  Kroners  about  Y^  a  Gulden,  divided  into 
Hellers,  lOO  Hellers  make  i  Kroner  and  two  Hellers  make 
one  Kreutzer.  This  involves  a  calculation  at  every  trans- 
action that  resembles  very  much  the  Jew's  who  said  the  man 
wanted  ^lo  for  his  coat,  would  take  ^8  but  would  sell  at  $6 
and  it  cost  him  ^4  and  the  buyer  would  give  ^2.  So  every 
time  I  buy  a  cigar  it  takes  a  lot  of  Japanese  figuring  to  pay 
for  it  and  I  pull  out  my  "chicken  feed"  coins  and  find  I  have 
to  double  the  Hellers  to  make  Kreutzers!  Such  is  life!  I 
shall  be  glad  to  get  back  to  a  country  where  we  will  have 
dollars  and  cents,  or  more  properly  dollars  and  lots  of  sense. 
So  good  bye,  old  boy,  write  me  fully  care  Morgan  Harjes 
&  Co.,  and  enjoy  yourself  and  grow  strong  and  well.  Your 
Mother  joins  me  in  affectionate  greetings  and  love  to  you. 

Affectionately,  F.  H.  R. 

Lermoos,  Tirol,  Aug.  13th,  1900. 
Dear  Fanny, 

I  have  thought  all  day  of  how  you  would  enjoy  this  drive 
on  this  most  perfect  day.  We  were  with  Emma  three  days 
at  Innsbruck  and  yesterday  took  the  small  train  to  Hall  and 
walked  all  over  it.  To-day  we  left  Innsbruck  at  8  a.  m.  and 
came  to  Imst  by  train  and  then  took  Extra  Post  to  Nassareit 
and  then  changed  and  had  a  real  postilion  and  came  over  the 
magnificent  Fern  Pass  in  an  ideal  atmosphere.  We  are  going  to 
Oberammergau,  but  will  spend  to-morrow  at  Hohenschwangau. 

We  start  this  minute  for  Oberammergau,  will  stay  over 
Wednesday  and  come  back  here  and  use  our  tickets  by  Lindau. 
We  are  very  tired  and  must  get  up  two  mornings  at  5  o'clock, 
then  on  to  the  wedding.    Love  to  all, 

Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

Hohenstadt,  Aug.  20th,  1900. 
Dear  Sam, 

Your  Father  is  just  going  and  I  send  this  by  him  to  say  we 
have  enjoyed  your  nice  letters  from  Blois  and  hope  the  stay 
there  has  done  you  good.    The  silver  wedding  was  the  greatest 

383 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


"^M'--     ■ 

THE  FERN  PASS,  TYROL 

^■lbt> 

.  A^     ■     i                 .^'^''.^■ 

*r:'- 

-••    ->, 

*.* 

BANQUET  TABLE,  SILVER  WEDDING,  HOHENSTADT 
384 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

success  you  can  imagine  and  we  only  went  to  bed  at  one 
o'clock  beginning  with  a  six  o'clock  dinner.  The  men  of  the 
family  all  wore  orders  and  the  oldest  was  a  general  in  full 
uniform.  There  were  95  telegrams  so  far  and  five  of  them 
were  from  different  royalties.  Your  Father  will  tell  you  all 
about  it — it  was  much  more  delightful  than  we  expected  it 
to  be.  Do  write  often  and  let  me  know  how  you  are  all  the 
time,  as  I  shall  be  very  anxious. 


HOTEL,  TEGERN  SEE,  TYROL 

We  had  a  most  delightful  trip  of  twelve  days  in  the  Tyrol 
and  travelled  very  hard,  and  as  I  had  all  the  packing  and 
planning  to  do  did  not  get  much  time  to  write.  The  first 
day  from  Munich  we  were  in  9  diflFerent  conveyances  and 
arrived  at  Tegern-See  at  seven  o'clock  to  find  not  a  bed  in  the 
village,  but  I  told  the  woman  we  were  going  to  stay  just  the 
same  and  she  finally  found  a  single  room,  so  after  that  we 
took  the  trouble  to  telegraph  ahead. 

We  were  three  days  in  Innsbruck  in  a  most  comfortable 
Hotel  and  enjoyed  being  with  your  Aunt  Emma  and  Fanny 
25  385 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  Airs.  Robinson,  and  her  boys  and  met  some  nice  young 
Englishmen.  Then  we  had  a  beautiful  drive  over  the  Fern 
Pass  to  Fussen  and  the  Castles  of  King  Ludwig  and  then  to 
Lindau  and  then  here.  Take  good  care  of  yourself  on  the 
ship.  I  hope  it  will  be  warm  and  now  with  a  kiss  for  good 
bye  and  with  much  love, 

Your  aflfectionate  Mother,         M.  D.  R. 

Hohenstadt, 
Aug.  21  St,  1900. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  received  your  postal  this  morning  saying  you  were 
unable  to  get  a  berth  on  the  Oriental  Express.  Count  A. 
says  he  secured  it  two  weeks  ago  and  cannot  understand 
why  you  should  not  have  had  it.  We  were  very  anxious 
when  the  terrible  hail  storm  began  for  fear  you  would  be 
soaked  as  it  w^ould  have  been  impossible  for  three  of  you  to 
be  protected  in  that  carriage  from  the  storm,  but  the  coach- 
man said  you  got  to  the  station  all  right. 

This  morning  before  I  could  get  dressed  I  heard  the 
soldiers  coming  and  looking  out  saw  all  sorts  of  horses,  wagons, 
&c,  officers  and  soldiers  and  sure  enough  they  arrived  in  time 
to  want  an  early  breakfast  and  now  at  one  o'clock  they  will 
have  another  and  dinner  to-night  in  the  hall.  It  is  still  hot 
and  looks  like  another  storm  late  in  the  day. 

We  miss  you  terribly  and  I  feel  badly  to  have  you  go 
away.  I  don't  see  why  you  and  Sam  cannot  be  content  to 
settle  down  somewhere  here  and  where  the  climate  and  food 
are  good.  Do  write  often  and  keep  me  posted  about  Sam  and 
with  much  love  from  us  all.         Your  aff,  M.  D.  R. 

Hohenstadt,  7  o'clock, 

Aug.  22nd,  1900. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

We  have  been  in  a  perfect  whirl  with  the  soldiers  and 
officers  and  I  cannot  get  a  moment.  They  came  early  yester- 
day morning  and  we  had  early  lunch  and  late  dinner.    They 

386 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

are  Uhlans  and  the  highest  officer  is  Major  Frank  and  then 
Baron  von  Gemmingen,  a  sort  of  cousin  of  Countess  Adel- 
mann,  and  then  the  young  officers  were  a  Count  Szeil,  whose 
father  is  a  Prince  and  his  cousin  young  Baron  Ensberg,  whose 
castle  we  saw  not  far  from  Sigmaringen. 

Last  night  we  had  a  big  dinner  in  the  Hall  and  General 
von  Camerer  drank  to  your  health.  In  the  afternoon  we  went 
out  to  see  them  inspect  the  horses  but  it  was  not  very  much. 


THE  BRIDAL  COUPLE  IN'  THE  GARDEN,  HOHEXSTADT 

We  all  sat  up  very  late  and  the  General  and  I  make  as  much 
fun  as  possible  where  neither  can  speak  the  other's  language. 
To-day  they  had  a  grand  dinner  at  8  o'clock  with  fish  and 
ice  cream  and  champagne  and  the  regimental  band  had  as- 
sembled from  all  round  the  country  and  while  we  were  eating 
they  stood  in  the  churchyard,  where  the  fire  works  were  and 
played  beautifully.  The  programs  were  written  out  and  put 
on  the  table.  After  dinner  they  played  the  Washington  Post 
for  Cliff  and  myself   and  I   sent  them  down   red,  white   and 

387 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

blue  China  Asters  tied  with  some  red,  white  and  blue  ribbon 
and  the  leader  pinned  them  on  his  shoulder  and  saluted  and 
I  had  to  bow  at  the  window.  All  these  fine  uniforms  make 
it  seem  very  stately  and  fine. 

We  spent  the  afternoon  in  the  garden,  the  young  officers 
and  the  boys  played  croquet  and  all  drank  beer  and  now 
they  are  ready  for  another  meal.  It  is  nothing  but  eat  and 
drink  all  day  long.    There  were  twenty  at  table  to-day. 

Countess  Adelmann  sends  her  regards  and  regrets  that 
you  could  not  have  stayed  to  see  the  officers.  The  General 
has  been  threatening  to  serenade  me  and  this  morning  he 
sent  the  chief  trumpeter  and  stood  him  in  the  Hall  in  front 
of  my  door  and  played  the  reveille.  You  can  imagine  the 
noise.  I  do  hope  Sam  is  feeling  better  and  I  am  so  sorry  he 
went  into  such  a  hot  climate.  I  hope  to  get  a  letter  from  you, 
as  none  came  to-day.  I  wonder  if  you  go  Friday  afternoon 
or  Saturday  morning  to  Cherbourg.  Hoping  you  are  both 
well,  with  much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Hohenstadt, 

Thursday  noon,  Aug.  23rd,  1900. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

The  Uhlans  were  magnificent  on  horseback.  We  got  up 
early  to  see  them  off,  as  they  got  up  a  special  parade  for  me 
and  the  trumpeters  played  on  horseback  in  front  of  our 
windows  and  we  watched  them  all  wind  away  down  hill. 
They  looked  taller  and  more  imposing  than  our  cavalry, 
with  their  lances  upright  and  it  was  a  magnificent  sight. 

I  fear  it  is  too  late  to  send  this  letter  to  Paris  and  you 
don't  name  your  Hotel  at  Cherbourg  so  we  can  only  send  to 
the  ship  and  hope  you  will  get  it.  Your  two  letters  came  to-day, 
Thursday,  at  ten  o'clock,  so  I  will  telegraph  to  Hotel  Columbia 
to-day.  I  also  miss  you  very  much  and  am  only  diverted  a 
little  by  all  this  excitement.  With  best  love  and  hopes  for  a 
safe  voyage.  Your  aff.  M.  D.  R. 


GERAIANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

Dear  Father, 

The  Uhlans  left  here  this  morning  and  we  got  up  to  see 
them  off.  At  ten  a.  m.  we  went  to  see  a  little  play  at  the 
kindergarten  and  it  was  really  very  good.  The  story  was 
taken  from  Hansel  and  Gretel.  This  afternoon  we  drive  and 
"bike"  to  Fachsenfeld.  At  this  time  of  year  you  should 
meet  pleasanter  people  on  the  St.  Paul  than  we  did  coming 
over.  Well  with  best  wishes  for  clear  weather,  smooth  seas 
and  a  pleasant  company, 

Clifford. 

Hohenstadt,  Aug.  24th,  1900. 
Dear  Laura, 

I  am  quite  crazy  when  I  remember  that  I  haven't  written 
to  you  since  Innsbruck  and  how  things  have  accumulated 
since  then!  We  left  Innsbruck  Monday  morning,  Aug.  13th 
in  the  train  as  far  as  Imst,  where  we  found  a  carriage  waiting 
for  us.  W^e  lost  no  time  getting  off  as  it  was  a  long  way  to 
Hohenschwangau.  Our  way  lay  through  several  villages 
filled  with  Austrian  soldiers  who  were  most  picturesque  as 
we  saw  them  around  the  village  fountains  and  across  the 
celebrated  Fern  Pass,  the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  Passes. 
We  were  very  fortunate  in  having  the  most  glorious  weather 
possible  and  the  high  mountains  with  bare  rock  summits,  a 
pale  pink  color,  towering  above  our  heads  and  contrasting 
with  the  green  forests  below,  were  something  wonderful. 

We  enjoyed  lunching  at  a  little  village  on  the  Austrian 
frontier  and  took  tea  at  Lermoos  and  then  on  to  Reutle  and 
Fiissen.  At  Fiissen  the  railroad  comes  in  but  we  went  on  to 
the  Alpen  Rosen  at  Hohenschwangau,  getting  there  in  time 
for  a  table  d'hote  supper.  We  were  glad  to  get  a  room  as 
the  whole  country  is  swarming  with  tourists  going  to  and 
coming  from  Oberammergau,  and  who  take  in  the  Royal 
Castles  at  the  same  time. 

That  night  our  decision  not  to  go  to  Oberammergau  began 
to  waver  and  we  concluded  that  when  we  were  so  near  people 

389 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

would  think  us  fools  not  to  go  so  we  told  the  porter  to  tele- 
graph if  we  could  get  a  room  and  seats  in  the  Theatre  and  we 
would  decide  in  the  morning.  I  found  my  bed  wet  and  cold 
and  had  a  real  shaking  chill  and  got  up  and  put  on  some 
things  and  my  fur  lined  circular  on  top  and  took  brandy  and 
finally  got  warm.  In  the  morning  I  found  myself  all  right 
again.  The  porter  had  secured  accommodations  for  us  so  it 
was  decided  we  should  drive  from  there  in  the  afternoon. 


SCHLOSS  HOHENSCHWANGAU 


So  the  morning  was  given  up  to  the  Castle  of  Neuschwan- 
stein,  built  by  King  Ludwig  on  the  foundations  of  an  old 
castle  in  the  most  romantic  location,  on  top  of  a  high  crag 
with  great  rocky  gorges  all  around  it  and  higher  mountains 
with  cataracts  of  water  dashing  down  into  the  gorges.  It  is 
built  all  of  white  stone  and  is  dazzling  to  look  at — is  modeled 
somewhat  after  the  Wartburg  at  Eisenach.  The  great  hall 
of  the  Troubadours  has  a  stage  at  one  end  and  here  Ludwig 
used   to   have   the   Wagner  Opera   given   for   himself   alone. 

390 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

Magnificent  scarcely  expresses  the  costliness  of  all  the  deco- 
rations. One  room  was  all  of  foliage  in  wood  carving,  gilded, 
coming  way  out  from  the  corners  and  spreading  over  the 
ceiling.  The  frescoes  were  all  of  subjects  from  the  Parsifal, 
of  Wolfram  von  Eschingen  and  the  Niebelungen  and  Lohen- 


NEUSCHWANSTEIN 
Castle  of  the  King  of  Bavaria 

grin,  as  this  is  the  country  associated  with  the  Swan  legend 
and  everywhere  through  the  castle  the  swan  was  in  every- 
thing, blue  and  white  leather  cushions  with  swan  design, 
embroidered  on  the  curtains. 

In  the  dining  room  the  centre  piece  for  flowers  was  a  great 
white  swan.      On  some  of  the  balconies  you  could  imagine 

391 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Elsa  just  as  in  the  Opera.  The  other  castle  Hohenschwangau, 
"High  swan  place"  happened  to  be  occupied  by  one  of  the 
royal  family  and  so  could  not  be  seen,  so  we  ate  our  lunch 
and  started  off"  for  Oberammergau  by  the  shortest  road,  with 


GORGEOUS  ROOM  IN  NEUSCHWANSTEIN 


all  our  luggage  behind  us,  as  we  were  to  come  back  to  Fiissen 
to  take  the  train  after  the  Passion  Play. 

A  delightful  drive  through  pine  forests  and  a  long  pull  up 
the  valley  and  we  arrived  at  Oberammergau  and  had  to  let 
the  horses  walk  through  the  village  so  great  was  the  crowd  of 
people.    Young  Ben  Reath  rushed  up  to  us  to  know  if  Clifford 

392 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

was  there,  otherwise  we  saw  no  one  we  knew,  but  at  the 
Hotel,  which  was  across  the  Httle  river  and  not  in  the  main 
street,  we  found  two  men  who  had  been  in  the  same  Hotel 
in  Munich. 

We  got  our  supper  quickly  and  hearing  cannons  going 
oflf  and  music  rushed  back  to  the  village.  There  every  one 
was  out  and  the  village  band  was  playing,  the  balconies  and 
even  the  streets  close  by  the  houses  were  filled  with  people 
eating  and  others  were  in  the  shops.  I  saw  such  beautiful 
things  but  unfortunately  as  the  light  was  poor  decided  to 
wait  until  the  next  day,  thinking  that  I  would  get  time  to 
look  at  things  in  the  daylight,  and  as  it  rained  terribly  I 
never  got  a  chance  to  see  anything. 

We  had  a  very  nice  room  and  good  food  at  our  Hotel  and 
had  a  good  night's  rest.  We  had  to  get  up  at  6.30  to  dress  and 
breakfast  and  get  to  the  Theatre  by  8  o'clock.  It  was  a 
curious  sight  to  see  the  throngs  of  people  all  converging 
towards  that  one  spot  and  filling  the  many  entrances.  I 
found  the  two  Sands  were  next  to  me  and  some  very  aristo- 
cratic looking  Germans,  also  a  gay  widow  who  came  over  on 
the  ship  with  us. 

The  play  is  opened  by  the  Chorus,  like  in  the  old  Greek 
plays,  who  explain  the  following  scene  and  the  tableaux. 
Then  comes  a  tableau  from  the  Old  Testament,  then  a  scene 
of  the  play.  The  Chorus  became  a  little  tiresome  after  8 
hours,  but  the  tableaux  were  wonderful,  the  throngs  of  people 
and  the  different  colors  of  the  costumes  and  the  gorgeous 
ones  of  the  High  Priests  of  the  Sanhedrim  and  of  the  Roman 
Pilate  and  soldiers  and  the  streets  of  Jerusalem,  made  a  never- 
to-be-forgotten  scene. 

The  entrance  of  Christ  on  the  Ass,  with  the  people  acclaim- 
ing and  waving  palms,  was  very  impressive.  After  the  first 
hour  I  began  to  feel  very  ill  (the  result  of  my  chill)  and 
concluded  to  go  out.  I  told  Frank  not  to  follow  and  I  managed 
to  get  an  "einspanner"  and  get  back  to  the  Hotel,  where  I 
lay  down  and  got  warm  and  dry  and  got  relief  from  pain. 

393 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

In  the  afternoon  the  play  began  at  1.30  and  I  went,  after 
a  good  dose  of  medicine,  and  sat  it  through  all  right  but  I 
had  to  ride  both  ways  as  everything  was  soaked  with  rain 
and  afloat. 

It  was  all  a  wonderful  picture  and  most  impressive, 
especially  the  crucifixion.  The  Christus  was  like  the  best 
pictures,  but  of  course  one  couldn't  expect  the  expression  in 
the  face.  He  was  very  sad  and  pensive  and  the  bearing  of 
the  cross  and  the  tormenting  and  scourging  by  the  Roman 
soldier  was  terrible.  He  was  hanging  on  the  cross  eighteen 
minutes.  It  looked  exactly  as  if  the  nails  went  through  the 
hands  and  feet  and  there  was  no  visible  support.  When 
they  forced  the  crown  of  thorns  down  on  his  head  and  the 
blood  trickled  down  it  was  terrible.  Then  when  he  died  on 
the  cross  and  everything  became  dark  and  there  was  terrific 
thunder,  it  was  wonderful,  right  out  of  doors  as  it  was. 

We  have  brought  books  and  pictures  to  show  something 
of  it  all.  It  was  still  raining  the  next  morning  when  we  left 
at  a  quarter  before  six  in  our  same  carriage  to  drive  back 
over  the  same  way  to  Fiissen.  We  had  an  hour  to  spare  and 
visited  the  fine  old  castle,  where  the  Archbishops  of  Augs- 
burg used  to  live,  and  is  now  used  by  the  Government  for 
offices.  It  is  a  magnificent  old  castle  on  a  hill  arid  below  it 
on  the  river  an  old  straggling  monastery  in  a  corner  of  which 
are  still  left  some  portions  of  the  old  city  wall  and  a  tower. 

From  the  train  after  leaving  Fiissen  we  had  our  most 
impressive  view  of  Neuschwanstein,  it  seeming  much  longer 
and  more  spread  out  than  from  the  other  positions  we  had 
seen  it. 

We  arrived  at  Lindau  on  the  Boden-See  to  find  a  lovely 
Hotel  on  the  lake,  with  a  balcony  out  of  our  room  overlooking 
the  Harbor  and  we  dined  delightfully  on  the  veranda  and 
watched  the  crowds  of  people  off  and  on  the  boats  going  to 
Bregenz,  Constance,  and  dozens  of  places.  It  was  a  great 
change  from  the  primitiveness  of  our  last  few  days. 

The  next  morning  we  went  by  boat  to  Friedrichshafen 

394 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

and  dined  and  drove  about  and  then  came  by  fast  train  here 
via  Ulm.  We  drove  up  here  in  an  hour  and  a  half  and  found 
the  other  guests  arriving  and  Clifford  here. 

They  had  two  suppers  that  night,  each  of  not  less  than 
ten  or  a  dozen  people.  I  am  so  tired  that  I  will  send  this  off 
and  write  the  description  of  Saturday  and  the  Silver  Wedding 
on  Sunday,  19th,  another  time.  Frank  left  Monday  after- 
noon and  met  Sam  in  Paris,  Tuesday,  and  is  to-day  travelling 
to  Cherbourg  to  sail  to-morrow. 

I  have  no  plans  for  the  present  after  leaving  here.  Shall 
wait  to  hear  of  Sam's  condition  after  he  gets  back.  With 
love  to  all, 

Aff'ly.,  M.  D.  R. 

Hohenstadt,  Aug.  25th,  1900. 
Dear  Laura, 

Your  letter  came  this  morning  inclosed  in  one  from  Frank, 
who  is  now,  to-day,  in  Cherbourg  and  will  soon  be  on  the 
St.  Paul  with  Sam.  The  latter  wishes  to  go,  much  to  my 
regret,  as  the  climate  is  so  much  better  here.  He  will  be  far 
better  off  in  Jamestown  than  in  Philadelphia  and  cannot  get 
there  until  October,  as  I  cannot  have  the  house  ready. 

I  wrote  you  of  our  doings  up  to  the  time  we  arrived  at 
Hohenstadt.  There  is  so  much  I  would  like  to  tell,  but  it  is 
really  impossible  to  write  everything.  All  day  Saturday 
they  were  busy  decorating  with  flags  and  flowers  and  putting 
up  a  long  table  in  the  Hall.  The  Countess'  brother,  the 
Baron  von  Briisselle,  is  a  remarkably  handsome  man,  blonde 
and  tall  and  most  beautiful  features.  He  also  speaks  English 
perfectly.  He  arrived  Friday  evening  with  a  cousin,  Baronin 
von  Briisselle  and  a  Frau  von  Fischer,  who  was  an  Adelmann 
and  whose  husband  is  a  General.  Another  Cousin  General 
von  Camerer,  is  the  head  of  the  family.  Then  there  was 
another  Count  Adelmann  and  the  other  Adelmann  family, 
who  occupy  the  floor  under  this. 

Early  on  Sunday  morning  we  got  up  and  dressed  and  had 

395 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

breakfast,  then  all  the  Adelmann  family  formed  in  line. 
Aleantime  the  church  was  decorated  and  all  the  better  class 
of  villagers  had  formed  in  line  on  each  side  of  the  street, 
among  them  all  the  old  soldiers.  Then  the  band  took  its 
place  and  began  to  play  as  soon  as  the  Adelmanns  issued 
from  the  castle  gate.  Cliff  and  I  stood  inside  between  the 
castle  and  church  to  see  them  pass. 


VILLAGE  FOLK  PARADING  FOR  THE  SILVER  WEDDING 

First  came  two  little  nieces  in  white  with  blonde  hair 
hanging  down  their  backs  and  each  holding  a  blue  velvet 
cushion  out  in  front  of  them  on  which  rested  one  a  silver 
wreath  and  the  other  a  bunch  of  silver  flowers — then  came 
the  Count  and  Countess,  he  in  frock  coat  and  high  hat  and 
she  in  a  purple  satin  foulard  with  lace  and  a  pretty  little 
bonnet,  then  the  family  after  them.  As  they  entered  the 
church  door  the  organ  pealed  forth  and  we  flew  up  the  tower 
stairs  to  our  proscenium  box  in  time  to  see  them  come  up 
into  the  chancel,  where  there  were  seats  on  each  side  like 

396 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

priedieu's  to  accommodate  the  whole  of  them.  The  Priest 
was  very  nice  looking — wore  the  most  gorgeous  chasuble  you 
can  imagine,  over  a  white  linen  robe  edged  with  deep  lace. 
The  service  was  long  and  towards  the  end  the  Count  and 
Countess  came  out  from  the  side  and  knelt  on  a  priedieu  in 


GATE  OF  CASTLE  HOHENSTADT 


THE^PROCESSION  TO  THE  CHURCH 


COMING  OUT  OF  CHURCH  AFTER 
THE  CEREMONY 


THE  RETURN  TO  THE  CASTLE 


the  middle  and  the  priest  made  some  address  and  then  he 
held  the  Evangels  for  each  of  them  to  kiss  and  then  the 
.service  ended  with  some  fine  music  and  they  marched  out 
again  between  the  lines  of  people  and  the  band  playing. 

They  then  received  all  the  villagers  in  the  great  Hall  and 
^ave   them  sherry  and   cake.     After  lunch  we  all  retired  to 

397 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

rest  for  the  dinner,  to  be  at  six  o'clock.  I  wore  my  jet  evening 
dress  for  the  first  time,  much  I  fear  to  the  scandal  of  the  two 
priests  present.  None  of  the  other  women  had  real  evening 
dress,  but  some  had  low  linings  and  mine  looked  very  well 
with  the  gorgeous  uniforms  of  the  men. 

General  Camerer  was  magnificent  in  full  uniform  covered 
with  orders,  among  them  the  iron  cross.  The  others  all  had  a 
beautiful  order  hung  from  a  red  velvet  sort  of  yoke  which  lay 


SCHLOSS  AND  CHURCH,  HOHEXSTADT 


below  the  collar  and  then  strings  of  orders  across  the  left 
breast.  Count  Adelmann  and  Baron  Briisselle  also  had  two 
gilt  buttons  at  the  back  of  the  waist  which  they  wear  now 
instead  of  the  big  golden  key,  as  Chamberlains  to  the  King 
of  Wiirtemburg. 

The  Baron  has  been  everywhere  in  Europe  with  the  King 
and  told  me  many  interesting  experiences  as  he  took  me  to 
dinner.  The  Count  and  Countess  sat  side  by  side  in  the  middle 
of  one  side  of  the  table  and  opposite  them  the  General  with 

398 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

his  Aunt,  the  Baron  Briisselle  and  myself  came  next  and  the 
other  members  of  the  family,  and  then  village  functionaries 
and  the  priests.  None  of  the  neighbors  were  invited  as  there 
were  21  people  at  table  as  it  was. 

They  used  the  celebrated  service  of  Marie  Antoinette 
china  with  tiny  blue  flowers  made  at  the  factory  she  estab- 
lished near  Paris  and  which  only  existed  a  very  few  years, 
so  it  is  now  very  rare.     There  are  two  pieces  of  it  in  the 


THE  WEDDING  COUPLE,  FRIENDS,  AND  RELATIVES  IN  THE  GARDEN 

Museum  at  Sevres.  In  the  middle  of  the  table  was  a  cake 
2  ft.  high  from  Pomerania  called  a  Baumkuchen  and  looked 
like  the  stem  of  a  fern  palm.  It  was  stuck  over  with  blue  and 
white  flags  and  then  at  intervals  down  the  table  were  jar- 
dinieres of  the  china  service  filled  with  alternately  blue  and 
white  flowers  and  green  asparagus,  &c.,  were  strewn  between 
the  dishes  and  silver  flowers  fastened  to  them — china  plates 
filled  with  delicious  cakes  and  bonbons  completed  the  table 
decoration. 

As  soon  as  the  dinner  was  well  under  way  Sigmund  got 

399 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

up  to  read  the  telegrams  which  were  96  in  number,  5  of  them 
from  royal  personages  and  that  was  all  most  interesting. 
Then  the  General  as  the  oldest  of  the  connection  rose  and 
made  an  address  and  asked  us  to  drink  the  health  of  the 
Count  and  Countess  and  then  they  all  gave  utterance  to 
three  "Hoch's!"  and  it  was  very  stirring. 

Just  then  came  trooping  into  the  room  six  or  eight  of  the 
strangest  figures  dressed  in  long  frock  coats,  short  breeches 


•HOCH!" 


and  long  white  stockings  and  fur  caps  each  with  an  instru- 
ment, then  one  of  them  came  forward  to  Count  Adelmann 
and  taking  off  his  cap  said,  "We  are  the  musicians  of  your 
great-great-grandfather  Joseph  Anselm  and  we  want  to  play 
some  old  music."  So  they  began  to  play  with  great  vigor  and 
after  the  different  speeches,  when  they  all  gave  their  three 
Hoch's,  they  played  a  sort  of  accompaniment,  like  this,  with 
each  one.  Do-mi-sol-do. 

I  never  saw  a  more  beautiful  sight  than  the  Hall  and  the 

dinner,   the  big  glass   chandeliers   with   their  lights   and  the 

400 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

portraits  and  gallery,  and  the  long  table  and  the  bright  colors 
of  the  flowers  and  uniforms  and  the  musicians.  The  great 
tree  cake  was  cut  with  much  ceremony  and  the  Count  thanked 
every  one  for  their  good  wishes  and  Raban  made  a  speech 
requesting  all  to  drink  to  the  health  of  the  Rosengarten 
family  and  then  all  the  men  came  trooping  round  to  touch 
my  glass  with  theirs  and  gave  us  the  three  hoch's  and  the 
musicians  played,  and  there  was  altogether  a  great  time. 


MUSICIANS  OF  JOSEPH  AXSELM  AT  THE  WEDDING  BANQUET,  HOHENSTADT 

At  each  plate  there  was  a  photo  of  the  Count  and  Countess 

and  the  chocolates  were  done  in  blue  and  white  paper  with 

a  picture  of  the  castle  on  them,  which  we  kept  for  souvenirs. 

Then  at  the  last  one  of  the  little  girls  In  white  came  Into  the 

room  with  a  basket  and  passed  around  to  each  one  a  ribbon 

favor,  blue  and  white  knot  and  streamers,  with  the  dates  of 

the  two  weddings,  which  we  pinned  on  our  shoulders.     After 

dinner  and  cofi"ee  the  village  choir  came  In  and  stood  up  In 

the  gallery  and  sang  glees.      During  the  evening  the  General 

played  accompaniments  and  the  men  sang  their  old  student 
26  401 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

corps  songs  of  Tiibingcn  and  Frank  was  perfectly  happy. 
Then  the  musicians  played  for  dancing  and  everybody  danced 
and  it  was  one  o'clock  before  we  finally  dispersed. 

The  musicians  had  found  their  costumes  among  the 
peasants'  old  houses  and  they  were  just  such  as  were  worn  at 
that  old  time.  The  next  day  Frank  left  for  Paris  and  Baron 
Briisselle  and  his  cousins  also,  as  on  Tuesday  the  soldiers 
were  to  appear  on  the  scene  to  spend  two  days  on  their  w^ay 
to  the  manoeuvres.  Clifford  was  moved  into  the  room  next 
to  mine  and  the  big  table  was  left  in  the  Hall,  as  we  were  to 
eat  there  w^hile  the  officers  were  here. 

The  next  morning  just  as  I  was  ready  for  breakfast  I 
heard  a  tramping  and  looked  out  of  the  window  to  the  front 
street  and  saw  the  Uhlans  trooping  along  with  their  long 
lances,  poised  on  their  stirrups,  and  in  beautiful  uniforms, 
then  carriages  and  great  covered  wagons,  which  were  left 
under  the  trees  at  the  side  of  the  street.  I  went  into  the 
breakfast  room  and  said  "there  is  a  whole  army  arriving" 
and  sure  enough  officers  and  all  had  arrived  much  earlier 
than  was  expected  and  had  to  have  an  extra  breakfast. 

There  were  five  officers,  each  with  a  servant  and  a  horse 
to  be  quartered  in  the  castle,  and  the  others  were  in  the 
village,  but  came  to  dinner  that  evening.  There  was  a  Baron 
von  Gemmingen,  a  cousin  of  Countess  Adelmann's,  a  young 
Count  Szeil,  whose  Father  is  a  Prince,  and  so  on.  As  they  were 
only  passing  through  there  were  no  parades,  only  an  examina- 
tion of  the  horses  at  4  p.  m.  by  two  of  the  younger  officers, 
so  that  evening  we  had  only  dinner  with  about  15  people  at 
table  and  it  all  looked  very  fine  with  the  uniforms  of  the  officers 
and  the  flowers  and  lights. 

The  General  and  I  are  having  great  fun  with  each  other 
and  he  said  he  was  going  to  serenade  me  at  six  o'clock  the  next 
morning.  I  said  I  thought  it  was  rather  early  and  thought 
no  more  about  it.  I  had  just  gotten  up  at  8  a.  m.  the  next 
morning  when  the  most  terrific  trumpeting  started  up  outside 

my  door  and  there  outside  in  the  Hall  stood  the  trumpeter, 

402 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

in  full  uniform,  playing  the  reveille,  and  their  uniforms  are 
handsomer  than  our  generals'. 

There  was  a  big  dinner  in  the  middle  of  the  day  of  at  least 
21  people.  I  was  much  teased  about  my  serenade.  They 
had  an  early  dinner  and  invited  the  other  officers  and  young 
Baron  von  Ensberg  and  another  officer  came  also  from  Adel- 
mannsfelden,  where  they  were  staying,  and  all  the  family 
from  down  stairs  and  we  had  another  great  dinner,  with 
menus  at  each  plate,  and,  between,  a  musical  programme. 
The  regimental  band  had  been  collected  and  played  beau- 
tifully through  the  whole  dinner,  really  fine  selections. 

After  dinner  we  stood  at  the  castle  windows  looking 
across  the  moat  to  where  they  stood  in  the  church  yard. 
Then  Count  Adelmann  requested  them  to  play  the  Washington 
Post  in  our  honor.  Then  I  got  together  a  red  and  a  white  and 
a  blue  China  Aster  bouquet  tied  together  with  a  piece  of  red 
white  and  blue  ribbon  and  Clifford  and  Raban  went  down 
and  presented  it  to  the  leader  with  my  thanks,  and  he  then 
saluted  me  as  I  stood  at  the  window. 

The  officers  dance  a  peculiar  dance  to  the  Washington 
Post  and  were  quite  surprised  that  we  knew  nothing  about  it. 
Clifford  must  introduce  it.  We  spent  the  last  afternoon  in 
the  garden  where  they  drank  beer  and  played  croquet.  In 
the  evening  a  light  supper  and  tea  after,  music  and  dancing, 
and  then  bed. 

The  soldiers  were  to  leave  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning 
and  as  I  expressed  some  disappointment  at  not  seeing  them 
"en  parade"  they  arranged  to  leave  here,  in  full  marching 
order,  parading  through  the  village  street  but  had  to  dis- 
mount to  go  down  the  very  steep  hill  and  I  was  amply  repaid 
for  getting  up.  The  uniforms  are  so  fine  and  the  helmets 
attached  by  long  w^hite  cords  to  the  shoulder  of  the  coat, 
then  the  long  lances,  erect,  they  certainly  looked  formidable 
enough,  and  I  could  readily  imagine  how  the  French  women 
and  children  raved  when  the  cry  was  raised,  "The  Uhlans  are 

coming." 

403 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

They  looked  so  very  high  and  big.  We  followed  to  the 
garden  and  watched  them  wind  along  down  the  steep  hill  and 
along  the  white  road  in  the  valley  and  as  they  turned  and 
vanished  they  were  all  singing  soldier  songs.  The  General 
says  as  he  can't  marry  me  he  is  going  to  wait  for  little  Laura, 
whom  I  have  promised  to  bring  over.  The  next  day  I  cannot 
describe  I  am  so  tired,  but  will  send  this  off  and  perhaps  by 
the  time  you  get  it  Frank  will  be  with  you  and  can  tell  you  all 
about  it.  We  hope  his  pictures  will  be  good,  as  he  took  many. 
With  much  love  to  all, 

Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

The  village  choir  and  band  came  and  sang  old  German 
hymns  under  the  windows,  very  interesting  music.  Count 
Adelmann  had  to  go  down  and  make  a  speech  and  was  very 
much  affected,  there  were  also  fireworks. 

Hohenstadt,  Aug.  26,  1900. 
Dear  Frank, 

Your  letter  of  Friday  has  just  come  to  hand.  I  am  sur- 
prised to  find  you  did  not  go  to  Cherbourg. 

Thursday  morning  Mechtilde  asked  us  to  go  over  to  the 
little  school  she  is  interested  in  as  they  were  to  give  a  little 
play.  They  had  a  little  stage  with  trees  on  it  and  played 
Hansel  and  Gretel  and  it  was  too  cunning.  Two  tiny  little 
things  dressed  in  costume  and  barefooted  took  the  two  parts 
and  did  very  well.  Before  the  curtain  rose  five  little  girls  and 
boys,  from  3  to  6  years  old,  stood  in  a  row  dressed  in  their  best 
and  with  bouquets  in  their  hands,  and  one  after  the  other 
made  a  little  speech  and  presented  their  bouquets. 

It  was  just  like  the  German  children's  picture  books  and  I 

thought  of  Clara  all  the  time.     I  was  in  the  front  row  with 

Count  and  Countess  Adelmann  and  we  were  so  near  we  could 

touch  them.     It  was  too  cunning  when  they  began  "hochge- 

borne  Herrschaft"  and  all  that  sort  of  thing,  and  their  funny 

little  high  voices.     You  would  have  been  delighted  with  it 

404 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

all.     Raban  took  pictures  of  everything  so  perhaps  he  will 
give  me  some. 

In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  call  at  a  neighboring  castle, 
Baron  Konig,  who  receives  on  Thursdays.  Countess  Adel- 
mann,  Sigmund  and  I  in  the  victoria  and  Mechtilde  drove  a 
dog  cart  with  Clifford  beside  her  and  Raban  behind.  We 
went  to  Abtsgemund  and  turned  off  the  opposite  way  from 
Aalen.  Count  A.  was  not  very  well  that  day  and  concluded 
to  stay  at  home. 

We  drove  in  through  the  village  which  was  not  very  clean, 
but  passing  through  an  archway  we  were  suddenly  in  the 
most  beautiful  garden,  laid  out  in  carpet  designs  and  the 
entrance  to  the  house  quite  on  a  level  with  the  ground.  It 
seems  it  used  to  be  a  castle,  but  they  rebuilt  the  lower  floor, 
changing  it  into  a  modern  country  house.  It  had  a  wide  hall 
like  our  houses  and  rooms  opening  on  each  side.  They  led 
us  through  several  rooms  to  the  other  side  of  the  house  and 
they  had  been  seated  on  the  small  veranda  and  so  we  sat 
there  awhile  and  there  was  a  beautifully  spread  table  down 
at  the  left  up  against  the  house. 

A  man  in  livery  brought  coffee  and  tea  and  they  gave  us 
the  most  delicious  bread  and  butter  and  currant  tart  and  cakes 
I  ever  tasted.  Anything  like  the  way  these  people  eat  I  never 
saw.  The  old  Baron  is  very  proud  of  his  treasures  and  showed 
them  to  me. 

The  right  wing  was  an  immense  drawing  room,  which 
also  opened  on  the  garden  like  the  French  houses  and  every- 
thing was  immaculate,  not  a  scrap  of  dust  to  be  seen  anywhere, 
so  I  find  there  are  good  housekeepers  here  too.  They  had 
most  wonderful  old  Majolica  and  other  china  and  I  was 
much  interested.  The  son  had  travelled  in  America  and  came 
back  with  Raban,  and  they  had  an  interesting  book  of  postal 
cards. 

Friday  it  was  rather  rainy  and  we  did  nothing  but  write. 
It  has  taken  me  two  mornings  to  describe  the  silver  wedding 
and  the  soldiers  to  Laura  and  I  ought  to  write  it  to  Lina  also. 

405 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Yesterday  afternoon  we  spent  in  the  garden  and  walking 
about.  The  atmosphere  was  remarkably  clear  and  anything 
more  beautiful  than  the  light  on  the  far  away  hills  would  be 
hard  to  conceive.  We  took  a  long  walk  along  the  brow  of  the 
hill  coming  out  across  a  big  field  and  in  through  the  stables 
on  the  outer  side  of  the  street  from  the  castle.  Everything 
was  swept  and  garnished  for  Sunday,  even  the  streets  and  the 
stables  seemed  perfectly  clean. 

Today,  Sunday,  we  are  to  dine  at  the  "Adler"  instead  of 
at  home.  Tuesday  Count  A.  goes  back  to  Sigmaringen. 
Wednesday  we  are  to  go  to  Ellwangen.  Baron  Brusselle  has 
written  his  sister  to  let  him  know  when  we  will  be  in  Stuttgart 
as  he  will  come  in  to  show  us  about.  With  much  love  from 
all  to  all,  and  hoping  for  a  cablegram  as  soon  as  you  arrive, 

Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

Hohenstadt,  Wed.,  Aug.  29th,  1900. 
Dear  Father, 

By  the  time  you  get  this  you  will  have  been  at  home  a 
w^eek  and  I  hope  satisfied.  We  have  been  very  quiet  lately. 
Raban  and  I  have  been  out  pheasant  shooting  twice  and  have 
proved  ourselves  very  bad  shots,  but  I  enjoyed  the  walks 
and  the  exercise.  We  have  paid  two  formal  visits,  one  to 
Baron  Konig  and  family  and  one  to  Baron  Velvarts.  The 
latter  is  a  cousin  of  Hermann's.  They  say  Hermann  is  at 
home  on  a  visit  but  we  shall  not  write  to  him. 

To-morrow  we  go  to  Ellwangen  for  the  day  and  I  suppose 
we  will  do  some  shopping  there.  We  leave  here  Saturday 
afternoon  and  go  to  Stuttgart  where  we  spend  two  days, 
then  going  slowly  to  Paris  by  way  of  Lake  Constance  and  the 
Vosges.      I  think  we  arrive  in  Paris  about  the  15th  September. 

Graf  Adelmann  left  yesterday  morning  and  we  miss  him 

very  much.     Raban  went  with  him  as  far  as  Stuttgart  and 

came   back   this    morning.      The    Countess  Mechtilde  and    I 

drove  out  to  Mozlingen  in  the  dogcart  to  meet  him.      This 

afternoon  walked  across   the  valley  to  top  of  hill  over  the 

406 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

Crockerluf  farm.  Splendid  view  with  Adelmannsfelden  in 
distance.  The  weather  is  much  colder.  Mother  well.  With 
best  wishes  for  Sam's  better  condition, 

Cliff. 

Hotel  Marquardt,  Stuttgart, 
Sun.,  Sept.  2nd,  1900. 
Dear  Father, 

We  left  Hohenstadt  yesterday  afternoon  and  arrived 
here  for  supper  where  we  found  the  cable  from  you  announc- 
ing your  safe  arrival.  Mother  did  not  get  up  for  breakfast 
as  she  is  tired  and  has  a  slight  cold  but  will  come  down 
for  lunch. 

Friday  afternoon  the  people  from  Adelmannsfelden  came 
over  to  Hohenstadt  and  spent  the  afternoon.  They  all  spoke 
English  so  that  it  was  very  pleasant.  We  expect  to  leave 
here  Tuesday  morning  and  go  I  think  to  Lake  Constance. 
Then  to  Lucerne,  Zurich,  the  Vosges  (6  days)  Strasbourg  and 
afterwards  Paris. 

Mother  expects  Baron  Bruselle  will  call  tomorrow,  Monday, 
and  show  her  the  curiosity  shops.  We  drove  to  Elwangen 
the  other  day  and  she  bought  some  things  there.  One  old 
glass  with  C.  A.  and  a  crown  on  one  side  and  a  bishop's  head 
on  the  other.  There  was  a  Christopher  Adelmann,  who  was 
a  bishop.*  She  also  got  a  beautiful  clergyman's  surplice  of 
brocade  for  $2.}4  and  this  certainly  was  a  bargain.  Also  a 
big  german  silver  thing  which  she  expects  to  make  into  a 
hall  lamp.  Hoping  you  and  Sam  will  be  very  comfortable, 
and  find  nice  people  at  Jamestown,  With  love,         J.  C.  R. 

Hotel  Marquardt,  Stuttgart, 

September  2nd,  1900. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

We  were  delighted  to  get  your  cablegram  last  evening. 
It  was  handed  us  at  the  supper  table  soon  after  our  arrival. 
We  left  Hohenstadt  in  the  same  train  you  did.     All  the  family 

*This  curious  cut  glass  goblet  is  at  1905  Walnut  Street  now. 

407 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

from  both  Etages  came  down  to  see  us  start  and  the  Gen- 
eral at  the  last  moment  presented  me  with  a  large  bouquet. 
Countess  Adelmann  and  Mechtilde  and  Raban  rode  part  of 
the  way  with  us  and  then  walked  back.  Clifford  and  I  cer- 
tainly felt  very  badly  at  leaving  them.  Perhaps  we  stayed 
too  long,  but  I  proposed  going  last  Thursday  but  they  wouldn't 
hear  of  it  and  arranged  an  excursion  to  EUwangen  for  the 
whole  day. 

I  wrote  you  on  Sunday  last  and  I  think  it  was  on  Monday 
that  we  drove  in  the  afternoon  to  Laubach  in  Leinthal,  an 
old  Burg,  with  double  moat  and  lots  of  towers,  a  most  inter- 


ADELMANNSFELDEN  CASTLE  AT  ELLWANGEN 

esting  place,  the  home  of  the  von  Wellwarths.  There  was 
the  usual  sit-down  tea  with  a  big  Apfelkuchen  and  all  kinds 
of  cakes  and  there  was  a  dungeon  where  the  prisoners  were 
let  down  with  a  rope  and  then  covered  up.  Of  course  the 
Baron  gave  me  his  arm  and  escorted  me  everywhere  through 
the  home.  I  wrote  little  Laura  a  postal  with  a  picture  of  it, 
but  it  does  not  do  it  justice  as  the  trees  hide  the  prettiest  side. 
Thursday  was  arranged  the  long-expected  excursion  to  EU- 
wangen. We  drove  all  the  way,  starting  at  nine  o'clock  and 
arriving  at  half  past  eleven.  Countess  Adelmann  had  made 
an  appointment  with  the  Doctor,  so  we  went  sightseeing 
without  her,  Cliff,   Sigmund  and  myself.     The  old  house  in 

the   town   was   very   fine,    built   in   the    Italian    Renaissance 

408 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

style  and  containing  fine  old  rooms  hung,  some  with  brocade 
and  some  with  Gobelin  tapestries  and  the  staircase  was 
beautiful.  We  walked  through  the  town  and  then  to  the 
Antiquary's  before  going  to  dinner  at  the  Hotel  Adler. 

The  houses  were  very  interesting  with  very  wide  gable 
ends  turned  towards  the  street.  I  bought  a  few  things,  among 
others  an  old  church  lamp  for  25  marks  and  it  is  shipped  to 
America,  as  old  metal,  and  you  must  be  on  the  lookout  for  it. 
I  got  also  a  large  glass,  i.  e.^  a  little  larger  than  an  ordinary 
tumbler,  with  the  initials  C.  A.  and  a  mitre  and  crown  which 
proved  to  be  the  Prince  Bishop  Adelmann's  who  ruled  in  the 
i6th  century  and  they  think  it  must  have  belonged  to  him. 
Sigmund  was  quite  in  despair  but  I  said  I  wanted  to  keep  it 
for  the  very  reason  that  it  had  the  Adelmann  name  on  it. 
It  cost  20  marks. 

After  dinner  we  went  into  the  church  which  is  Norman 
on  the  outside  and  Baroque  inside,  and  the  Adelmann  coat 
of  arms  is  everywhere.  It  has  a  choir  like  the  English  cathe- 
drals and  they  now  wish  to  restore  the  Norman  interior  as 
they  find  the  Norman  stonework  is  still  in  existence  under 
the  plaster — they  have  knocked  it  away  in  places  and  find 
the  round  stone  columns  and  every  detail  just  as  it  should  be. 
After  the  church  we  drove  up  a  high  hill  to  the  old  Schloss, 
which  was  the  residence  of  the  Prince  Bishops  who  were 
rulers  as  well  as  Bishops  and  now  is  used  by  the  Government. 
It  is  a  magnificent  castle  with  a  moat  and  two  courts  and  the 
staircase  of  the  inner  court  is  very  fine. 

One  of  these  Prince  Bishops  was  a  Christopher  Adelmann 
and  he  built  a  very  large  church  on  this  same  hill,  to  which 
pilgrimages  are  now  made.  It  is  a  very  beautiful  rococo 
aflfair,  with  very  fine  wood  carvings  and  the  stucco  is  very 
elaborate.  He  is  buried  in  this  church  and  it  was  his  brother 
who  built  the  house  in  the  town  of  Ellwangen. 

I  was  pretty  well  tired  out  with  that  excursion.     I  hope 

you  got  our  letters  written  to  the  ship,  and  thought  you  would 

have   sent   a   postal  from   Cherbourg,   but   got  nothing.     Of 

course  we  shall  be  very  anxious  to  get  your  first  letters. 

409 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  shall  stay  here  to-morrow,  Baron  von  Brusselle  having 
asked  his  sister  to  let  him  know  when  we  were  to  be  in  Stutt- 
gart, offered  to  come  in  and  show  us  about  and  we  expect 
him  tomorrow.  We  shall  go  on  Tuesday  to  Constanz  and 
Zurich  and  Lucerne,  Basle  and  from  Mulhausen  make  a 
week's  trip  through  the  Vosges  to  Strasbourg.  General  von 
Camerer  made  out  a  nice  trip  for  us  and  so  we  have  about 
decided  to  go. 

I  hope  we  may  have  a  nice  day  in  Lucerne  to  make  an 
excursion  up  Pilatus  and  get  one  general  view  of  Switzerland. 
We  are  most  comfortable  here,  had  a  delicious  dinner  and  I 
have  a  front  room. 

I  waited  to  see  if  Baron  Brusselle  would  come  and  have 
just  had  two  letters  from  Hohenstadt,  saying  he  would  not 
be  able  to  come,  and  that  they  all  missed  us  very  much,  &c.,  &c., 
and  the  general  signed  himself  General  Donnerwetter!  WVite 
me  all  about  Sam.      With  much  love, 

Most  aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  d'Angleterre,  Lucerne, 

Sept.  6th,  1900. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

I  don't  know  where  you  both  are  or  whether  you  are  both 
together.  I  was  delighted  that  you  had  such  a  quick  trip 
home  and  judge  it  must  have  been  a  quiet  one.  I  wrote  you 
last  in  Stuttgart  where  we  spent  a  rainy  Sunday  and  I  was 
feeling  miserable  so  did  not  see  much  on  Monday. 

We  left  Tuesday  morning  early  for  Constance,  where  we 
had  perfect  weather  and  stayed  in  the  old  Benedictine  mon- 
astery on  an  island,  Insel-Hotel.  Our  rooms  were  over  the 
cloisters  and  looked  down  into  the  court,  with  fountain  and 
beautiful  flowers.  John  Huss  was  confined  in  the  tower  of 
this  monastery.  The  dining  room  was  formerly  the  church 
and  had  two  rows  of  pillars.  The  old  Refectorium  was  the 
cafe  and  everything   in  the  place  was  most  interesting.     Li 

Ekkehard    it   tells    about   the   people    taking    refuge    in   this 

410 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

monastery,  when  the  Huns  overran  that  part  of  Germany. 
The  gardens  on  the  lake  side  were  most  beautiful  and  alto- 
gether I  wouldn't  have  missed  it. 

Wednesday  we  came  on  to  Zurich  which  we  liked  very 
much,  though  we  had  noisy  back  rooms  on  the  court.  The 
Landesmuseum  was  perfectly  fine  and  worth  staying  over 
for — then  we  came  here  and  much  to  our  disappointment 
couldn't  get  in  at  the  Schweizer  Hof,  although  I  had  written 


"BAUR  AU  LAC."  ZURICH 

a  week  ahead.    The  races  are  going  on  and  Duse  is  playing 
here  and  the  big  hotels  are  full. 

Yesterday  afternoon  Cliff  and  I  were  driving  about  when 
we  saw  the  Watsons  disappear  into  a  store  and  they  were  as 
glad  to  see  us  as  we  wxre  to  see  them,  so  we  arranged  to  go 
up  the  Pilatus  to-day  and  to  be  with  them  to-morrow.  We 
shall  leave  about  six  in  the  afternoon  for  Basle  and  begin  our 
trip  to  the  Vosges  and  probably  be  in  Paris  in  another  week. 
I  am  so  dead  tired  I  must  stop,  so  hoping  to  hear  from  you 
soon  and  with  much  love  to  Sam. 

Your  aff.  wife,  M.  D.  R. 

411 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Top  of  Pilatus,  2.30  P.  M. 
Friday,  Sept.  7th,  1900. 
Dear  Frank, 

Just  a  few  words  while  Clifford,  Mr.  Watson  and  myself 
are  waiting  for  our  colTee,  before  going  up  to  the  platform 
to  look  at  the  view.  It  was  a  fearful  ride  up  on  the  car, 
but  Mrs.  W.  was  much  more  nervous  than  I.  I  don't  like 
the  going  down   very  much,  but  we  have  the  most  perfect 


THE  TOP  OF  PILATUS 


day  of  the  season,  absolutely  clear  and  the  coloring  beyond 

words  to  describe. 

Love  to  all,  M.  D.  R. 

Munster  Hotel, 
Munster,  Sept.  9th,  1900. 
Dear  Father, 

Here  we  are  in  a  nasty  little  place  and  absolutely  uncer- 
tain of  what  we  are  going  to  do.  The  hotel  is  no  more  like 
the  picture  than  black  is  to  white.  We  have  been  in  Switzer- 
land and  met  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watson  at  Lucerne  and  went  up 
Pilatus  with  them.  Mother  enjoyed  Constance  and  Zurich. 
We  read  in  the  N.  Y.  Herald  that  your  trip  was  a  record  one, 
so  that  we  are  pleased  to  think  that  you  must  have  had 
pleasant  weather. 

With  best  wishes  to  you  and  Sam.  Cliff. 

412 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

Hotel  Altenburg,  Munster, 

Sept.  nth,  1900. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

Not  a  word  as  yet  from  you,  but  we  hope  for  a  letter  at 
Strasbourg.  This  is  a  perfect  hotel,  3600  ft.  up,  and  with 
everything  new  and  comfortable,  perfect  cleanliness,  every 
convenience  and  our  rooms  only  4  marks.  We  came  from 
Basle  to  Colmar  on  Sunday  and  came  on  to  Munster  for  the 
night,  thinking  it  would  be  more  comfortable,  but  it  was 
dreadfully  dirty.  We  were  delayed  a  whole  day  by  not  being 
able  to  draw  money  on  Sunday.  We  couldn't  draw  German 
money  before  we  got  to  Colmar  so  I  waited  at  Munster  and 
Clifford  went  back  to  Colmar  early  Monday  morning  and 
got  the  money  and  we  drove  up  here  in  the  afternoon,  having 
lost  24  hours,  as  we  could  have  come  right  through  to  here 
Sunday  night. 

We  are  just  a  little  below  the  Schlucht  or  summit  and  the 
view  down  over  the  Munster  Thai  is  exquisite.  We  go  on  in 
carriage  to  Gerardmer,  over  the  summit  and  into  France  to 
breakfast  at  the  Hotel  du  Lac  and  return  here  for  to-night. 
To-morrow  we  go  on  back  to  Colmar  and  up  to  Oberrheinheim 
where  we  get  off  to  drive  to  the  Odilienberg  and  perhaps 
get  to  Strasbourg  to-morrow  night.  From  there  to  Metz  where 
we  drive  over  the  battlefields  and  make  an  excursion  to  Treves, 
where  are  wonderful  Roman  remains,  back  to  Metz  and  fast 
train  to  Paris. 

We  are  having  wonderful  weather,  though  a  little  too 
hazy  for  clear  view.  I  telegraphed  to  Emma  to  meet  us  at 
Gerardmer  to-day  but  she  answered  it  was  impossible  and 
they  were  going  to  Paris  Sept.  15th.  I  suppose  we  shall  get 
there  Monday  17th. 

The  Marquis  of  Salisbury  is  here.  As  I  came  out  from 
breakfast  on  the  enclosed  glass  veranda  I  met  him  and  had  a 
good  look  at  him — he  is  big  and  broad  like  Father  but  not 
as  tall  and  has  blue  eyes  and  wears  a  black  skull  cap  just  as 
Father  did. 

At  the  table  d'hote  the  people  all  looked  first  class  and 

413 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

those  near  me  were  Americans,  but  spoke  French  Hke  natives. 
The  mother  afterwards  told  me  her  daughter  was  married  to 
a  French  engineer  and  she  had  lost  her  son,  also  an  engineer, 
six  weeks  ago^died  from  overwork  and  paralysis.  She 
spends  her  time  over  here.  Years  ago  she  spent  six  years 
at  the  Marquardt,  Stuttgart,  and  knew  von  Gemmingens 
and  von  Camerer.  I  must  try  to  find  out  their  names.  She 
is  from  Kentucky.  I  would  love  to  stay  here  two  or  three 
weeks  with  a  friend  or  two.  It  is  such  a  perfect  comfort. 
Farewell,  with  much  love  for  both. 

Your  afT.  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  Angleterre,  Strasbourg, 

Sept.  13th,  1900. 
Dear  Father, 

Here  we  are  at  last  out  of  the  Vosges  and  well  on  our  way 
to  Paris,  which  we  expect  to  reach  Sunday  or  Monday.  We 
have  had  wonderful  luck  with  the  weather  as  it  has  been 
quite  clear  and  allowed  us  to  take  a  great  many  long  drives. 
The  Vosges  were  very  beautiful  but  awfully  lonely.  From 
here  we  go  to  Metz  and  drive  over  the  battlefields  of  70-71 
and  then  go  to  Treves  and  see  the  Old  Roman  remains. 
Your  letters  have  just  come  for  Mother  and  have  been  sent 
up  to  her.  I  expect  to  read  them  with  great  pleasure.  We 
go  to  the  Hotel  Athenee.  Metz  I  do  not  believe  will  interest 
us  very  much  as  we  do  not  know  who  commanded  the  differ- 
ent army  corps  and  which  regiments  were  most  concerned. 
But  Treves  I  am  sure  we  will  enjoy.  The  guide  book  which  I 
have  been  reading  says  that  it  has  the  finest  Roman  remains 
outside  of  Italy.     With  much  love  to  you  and  Sam. 

Sincerely,  Cliff. 

Hotel  Porta  Nigra,  Trier, 

Sept.  15th,  1900. 
Dear  Frank, 

Just  a  few  words  before  leaving  Treves,  as  I  know  I  won't 
have  time  again  for  several  days.  We  were  going  to  take 
the  one  o'clock  train,  but  there  was  so  much  that  was  inter- 

414 


GERMANY,  SWITZERLAND  AND  AUSTRIA 

esting  to  see  and  the  Hotel  is  so  comfortable  and  the  coffee 
so  remarkably  good  that  Clifford  absolutely  proposed  staying 
until  the  six  o'clock  train.  Just  now  we  were  taking  coffee 
and  bread  and  butter  (as  we  will  get  "kein  abend-essen") 
and  sitting  in  the  glass  terrace  overlooking  the  great  three 
story  Roman  gate  and  the  boy  playing  the  hose  over  the 
street,  for  the  heat  and  dust  are  terrific,  when  a  whole  regi- 
ment of  artillery  came  in  and  some  of  the  officers  came  in  to 
refresh  and  eat  here.  They  are  a  splendid  looking  lot  of  men 
and  very  formal  with  each  other.    They  were  white  with  dust 


J     ]    \ 


PORTA  NIGRA,  TRIER 

and  Clifford  and  I  were  the  same  yesterday  after  driving  to 
Gravelotte — it  is  like  around  St.  Louis. 

We  spend  to-night  in  Metz  and  take  the  fastest  train  to 
Paris,  which  leaves  at  noon,  and  gets  in  at  six  p.  m.  I  shall 
have  Mrs.  Watson  to  go  about  with.  I  only  hope  this  heat 
will  not  continue,  it  seems  unbearable  after  the  cool  air  of 
Hohenstadt  and  the  Vosges.  I  was  delighted  you  had  such 
a  comfortable  trip  home,  but  I  am  sure  you  and  Sam  have 
already  repented.  How  I  wish  you  wxre  here  with  your 
camera  to  take  pictures  of  these  wonderful  things.    I  must  stop. 

Aff.  M.  D.  R. 

415 


FRANCE 


Paris,  Sept.  i8th,  1900 
Dear  Father, 

We  are  staying  at  the  Bedford  Hotel  back  of  the  Made- 
leine and  hope  to  get  into  theFrance  et  Choiseul  to-day  or 
to-morrow.  Last  night  we  dined  at  the  Tour  d'Argent.  Saw 
Pepper  for  a  few  minutes  before  he  left  for  London  to  sail  for 
America.  Treves  was  really  fine  and  we  would  have  liked  to 
stay  longer.  We  are  surprised  and  grieved  to  hear  of  Dr. 
DaCosta's  death,  but  as  yet  have  received  no  details. 


With  love, 


J.  C.  R. 


Bedford  Hotel,  Paris. 

Sept.  1 8th,  1900. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

Clifford  says  he  wrote  this  morning,  but  as  I  have  a  little 
leisure  time  before  lunch  I  must  utilize  the  time.  Later 
when  we  are  settled  I  will  find  out  what  days  the  mails  go  and 
have  special  days  for  writing. 

When    we    arrived    hot    and    dusty    Sunday    night    they 

couldn't  take  care  of  us  but  sent  us  on  here,  where  we  have 

two  dirty  noisy  rooms,  but  they  are  a  good  deal  better  than 

none.    We  had  a  terrible  time  getting  away  from  the  station — 

I  was  really  frightened  at  the  crowd,  and  if  the  man  in  control 

416 


FRANCE 

had  not  given  us  a  cab  that  had  been  ordered  for  someone 
else,  I  don't  know  when  we  would  have  got  away. 

Yesterday  Clifford  went  to  the  Hotel  de  France  and 
Choiseul  and  we  are  to  get  in  there  to-day  and  move  into 
other  rooms  to-morrow.  I  went  to  the  Regina  to  lunch  and 
Cliff  went  to  see  Pepper  off.  It  is  so  very  hot  here  that  any 
exercise  is  uncomfortable,  and  it  hasn't  rained  for  weeks  and 
the  whole  of  France  is  parched  and  burned  up.  The  Watsons 
will  be  here  and  probably  Mrs.  Hazard  will  soon  be  back  and 
I  shall  look  up  the  Christophersons  as  soon  as  we  are  settled. 
I  am  tired  out  and  shall  keep  quiet  until  this  hot  spell  is  over. 

You  cannot  imagine  the  crowds,  they  are  something 
fearful.  As  I  was  walking  to  the  Regina  yesterday  along  the 
Rue  de  Rivoli,  who  should  come  up  beside  me  but  Henrietta 
Tower,  now  Mrs.  Wurts  of  Rome,  with  her  husband  whom 
she  introduced.  She  is  wonderfully  improved  in  appearance 
and  was  very  nice  and  cordial.  I  forgot  to  ask  where  they 
were  staying.  Hoping  to  hear  often  of  Sam's  improvement 
and  with  love  to  you,  Laura  and  all, 

Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 


27 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1903 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1903 

These  long-thought-of  journeys,  even  proposed  in  1869,  were 
undertaken  after  prolonged  study  and  carefully  arranged 
details  and  accomplished  with  delight.* 

Sailing  on  the  Steamship  Auguste  Victoria  from  New  York 
on  February  3rd,  1903,  with  a  most  interesting  lot  of  passen- 
gers, the  first  stop  was  made  at  Madeira,  then  Gibraltar  and 
rail  trips  to  Granada  and  the  Alhambra,  Algeciras,  Ronda, 
Andalusia  and  Malaga  in  Spain.  Then  to  Algiers,  Blidah,  Chiffa, 
Genoa,  around  the  Bordighera  to  Nice,  Monte  Carlo,  Ischia 
and  Ville  Franche.  Then  began  the  journey  to  the  East, 
the  Holy  Land  and  Egypt. 

This  included  a  visit  to  Syracuse  in  Sicily,  Malta,  Nauplia, 
Mycenae,  Kalamaki,  Corinth,  Athens  and  the  Piraeus  in 
Greece,  on  to  the  Dardanelles  and  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  through 
the  Bosphorus  to  Constantinople,  Scutari  and  a  run  to  the 
Black  Sea.  Then  to  Cyprus  and  to  Beyrout,  Damascus, 
Rayak,  and  Baalbec. 

Thence  to  Joppa  and  Jerusalem,  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
Jericho,  Dead  Sea  and  the  River  Jordan. 

Sailing  from  Joppa,  to  Alexandria  in  Egypt  and  thence  to 
Cairo  and  Luxor. 

The  return  journey  from  Alexandria  was  made  by  way  of 
Palermo,  Messina,  Taormina,  Naples,  Rome  and  Paris,  and 
sailing  for  New  York  on  May  8th,  1903. 

*  The  plans  of  travel  were  so  carefully  studied  out  and  arranged  that  a  cablegram 
could  have  reached  her  almost  any  time  on  the  journey. 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  1903 


TOUR  ON  S.  S.  AUGUSTE  VICTORIA,— AZORES,  GIBRALTAR,  GRANADA 
AND  THE  ALHAMBRA,  ALGIERS,  SICILY,  GENOA,  RIVIERA,  GREECE,  MALTA, 
CONSTANTINOPLE,  HOLY  LAND,  JERUSALEM,  ETC.,  ALEXANDRIA,  CAIRO, 
LUXOR,  ETC.,  IN  EGYPT;  NAPLES,  ROME,  PARIS. 


Aboard     S.    S.    Auguste 

Victoria Feb. 

The  "Star  Spangled  Ban- 
ner"   Feb. 

Guardabassi Feb. 

Madeira Feb. 

Rough  landing Feb. 

Wonderful  views Feb. 

Bullock  Carts Feb. 

Funchal Feb. 

Mosaic  Patterns  in  Street 
Paving Feb. 

Funicular  to  the  Church 
2000  ft Feb. 

Steep  hills,  reminders  of 
Clovelly Feb. 

Wonderful  color  effects 
and  flowers Feb. 

Climate  wonderful Feb. 

Beauties  of  the  Casino .  .  .  Feb. 

Wicker  things  and  pur- 
chases  Feb. 

Gibraltar Feb. 

Tangiers — Scimitar  and 
powder  horn Feb. 

Algeciras Feb. 

Baroness  Von  Ketteler.  .Feb. 

Orchards  of  olives  and 
almonds Feb. 

Ronda,  Andalusia Feb. 

Granada Feb. 

Alhambra  and  its  won- 
ders  Feb. 

Sierra  Nevadas,  snow 
covered Feb. 

Generalife  Palace  and 
gardens Feb. 

Carthusian  Monastery  ..Feb. 

Malaga  and  its  interest- 
ing things Feb. 

Grand  Hotel  del'  Oasis, 
Algiers Feb. 

Excursion  to  Blidah.  .  .  .Feb. 

Arab  quarter  of  Algiers.  .Feb. 

Country  a  surprise,  like 
New  England Feb. 

Cold  weather  a  surprise. Feb. 

Blidah,  Chasseurs  d'Af- 
rique  and  Zouaves  ....  Feb. 

Arabian  horses Feb. 


3, 

1903 

427 

3, 

3, 

II, 

II. 

II, 

II. 
II, 

1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 

427 

427 

430 
430 
430 
431 
431 

II. 

1903 

431 

II. 

1903 

431 

II. 

1903 

431 

II, 
II, 
II. 

1903 
1903 
1903 

432 
433 
433 

II. 

16, 

1903 
1903 

434 
436 

16, 
16, 
16, 

1903 
1903 
1903 

438 
438 
438 

16, 
16, 
16, 

1903 
1903 
1903 

438 

439 
440 

16, 

1900 

440 

16, 

1903 

441 

16, 
16, 

1903 
1903 

441 
441 

16, 

1903 

442 

17. 

1903 

442 

17. 

1903 

443 

17, 

1903 

443 

17. 

1903 

443 

17, 

1903 

444 

17. 

1903 

444 

17. 

1903 

444 

Tangerine  oranges Feb. 

Gorge  of  Chiffa Feb. 

Absence  of  monkeys  .  . .  .Feb. 
Old    Roman    walls     and 

Moorish  houses Feb. 

U.  S.  Navy  ships,  Chicago 

and  Machias Feb. 

Genoa Feb. 

Smooth  passage Feb. 

"Nearer      the      Equator 

more  furs  are  needed  ".Feb. 

Adieux  at  Genoa Feb. 

Eden        Palace        Hotel, 

Genoa Feb. 

Hotel  des  Anglais,  Nice. Feb. 

Monte  Carlo Feb. 

Along  the  Riviera Feb. 

Languages,   German, 

Portuguese,        Spanish 

French,  Arabic,  Italian. Feb. 
Roses,  violets,  carnations 

and  narcissus Feb. 

Oranges  and  lemons Feb. 

Cafe  Ciro Feb. 

Flower  parade Feb. 

Bataille  des  Fleurs Feb. 

Carnival    at     Nice,    wire 

masks Feb. 

Cannes Feb. 

Due  d'Orleans Feb. 

Villefranche Feb. 

Ischia Feb. 

Capri Feb. 

Syracuse Feb. 

Mt.  iEtna Feb. 

Greek  Theatre Feb. 

Ear  of  Dionysius Feb. 

Church    where    St.    Paul 

preached Feb. 

Malta Feb. 

Citto  Vecchio Feb. 

Governor's  summer  pal- 
ace  Feb. 

Governor,  Lord  Grenfell.Feb. 

Curious  cave  shops Feb. 

Steep  streets Feb. 

Wonderful  weather Feb. 

Summer  clothing Feb. 

Nauplia,  Greece Mar. 

Tyryns,    the     Acropolis, 

1700  ft.  above Mar. 


17, 

1903 

444 

17, 

1903 

445 

17, 

1903 

445 

17. 

1903 

445 

19. 

1903 

446 

19. 

1903 

446 

19, 

1903 

446 

19, 

1903 

447 

20, 

1903 

448 

20, 

1903 

448 

20, 

1903 

448 

20, 

1903 

449 

20, 

1903 

449 

20, 

1903 

449 

20, 

1903 

450 

20, 

1903 

450 

22, 

1903 

451 

22, 

1903 

451 

23. 

1903 

451 

23. 

1903 

453 

23. 

1903 

453 

23. 

1903 

453 

2b, 

1903 

454 

26, 

1903 

454 

26, 

1903 

454 

26, 

1903 

454 

26, 

1903 

455 

26, 

1903 

455 

26, 

1903 

456 

26, 

1903 

457 

26, 

1903 

457 

27. 

1903 

457 

27, 

1903 

458 

27. 

1903 

458 

27, 

1903 

458 

27. 

1903 

458 

27, 

1903 

460 

27. 

1903 

460 

I, 

1903 

461 

1, 1903   462 


423 


INDEX 


Wonderful  Cyclopean 

walls Mar.     i, 

Shepherds  and  sheep.  ..  .Mar.     i, 

Mycenae,    Agamemnon's 

city Mar.     I, 

Schlieman's  Excavations  Mar.     i, 

Tomb  of  Agamemnon  ..  .Mar.    i, 

Kalamaki Mar.     i, 

Old  Corinth Mar.     i, 

The    Isthmus    and    new 

canal Mar.    i, 

Hotel    Grande    Bretagne, 

Athens Mar.    3, 

Aboard  Auguste  Victoria. Mar.    4, 

Just  sailed  from  the  Pir- 
aeus  Mar.    4, 

Dined      with     American 

Minister  Jackson Mar.    4, 

Acropolis,  University 
Museum Mar.    4, 

Dardanelles Mar.    4, 

Sea    of    Marmora,    Bos- 

phorus Mar.    4, 

Constantinople Mar.    7, 

Pera-Palace,    Constanti- 
nople   Mar.    7, 

City  of  filth Mar.    7, 

Yildiz  Kiosk,  Sultan  en- 
tering It Mar.    7, 

Gorgeous     military     and 

civil  uniforms Mar.    7, 

Thousands     of     soldiers, 

big  men Mar.    7, 

Alosques,    white    palace, 

Museum Mar.    7, 

Ramadan,        hordes      of 

sheep  in  streets Mar.    7, 

Illumination  of  the  Mos- 
ques   Mar.    7, 

Visit  to  American  college, 

Scutari Mar.    7, 

Feast    of    Beiram,    2000 

sheep Mar.    8, 

"Loukoum"  (Turkish 
Delight) Mar.    8, 

Sultan's    gifts,    camellias, 

azaleas  and  "loukoum"  Mar.    8, 

Trip  to  Black  Sea,  Run 

through  Bosphorus  .  .  .Mar.    8, 

Baron       Marshall       von 

Bieberstein Mar.  11, 

Candies  for  ladies,  cig- 
arettes for  men  from 
Sultan Mar.  11, 

Shadowed    by   detectives 

and  spies Mar.  Ii, 

Coast  of  Cyprus,  Isle  of 

Rhodes Mar.  II, 

Beyrout Mar.  Ii, 

Difficult  landing  in  small 

boats Mar.  13, 

Damascus Mar.  13, 


Palace  Hotel Mar. 

903    462      Nice  train  to  Damascus. Mar. 
903    462       Lebanon  Mountains Mar. 

Wonderful   views,    bitter 

903    462  cold Mar. 

903    462      Camel  trains Mar. 

903    463      y\rab  costumes Mar. 

903    463       Bible  expressions  recalled  Mar. 
903    463       Rayak Mar. 

Baalbec  and   its   marvel- 
903    463  lous  ruins Mar. 

Temples  of  Jupiter  and  of 

903    464  the  Sun Mar. 

903    464       Ruins  of  Athens  are  tame 

as  compared  to  these.  .Mar. 
903    464      Wonderful  Cyclopean 

stones Mar. 

903    465       Exquisite     marble    carv- 
ings  Mar. 

903    465       Danger  from  use  of    bra- 
903    465  ziers  to  heat  rooms. . .  .Mar. 

Feast  day  and  its  curious 

903    465  costumes,  etc Mar. 

903    466      Apricot,  orange  and  lem- 
on  trees,   in   full   blos- 

903    466  som Mar. 

903    466       Faithful  saying  prayers.  .Mar. 

Jewish      and      Christian 
903    466  houses Mar. 

Very  fine  interiors Mar. 

903    466      Jewish    procession  carry- 
ing an  infant Mar. 

903    467       Bazaars Mar. 

Looking   at   the   city   by 
903    467  moonlight,     from     the 

housetop Mar. 

903    467       Arab     coffee    house   and 

nargllehs Mar. 

903    468       Interesting      people      in 

party Mar. 

903    468       Officers  of  Prussian  Garde 

do  Corps Mar. 

903    469      Jerusalem Mar. 

Joppa,  easy  landing  .  .  .  .Mar. 
903    470      A  filthy  city Mar. 

Saluted    by    a    Baldwin 
903    470  locomotive Mar. 

Crossing     the     Plain     of 
903    470  Sharon Mar. 

Mud  villages Mar. 

903    471       Hills  of  Judea,  Tower  of 

David Mar. 

Bethsheba,   now   a    fort- 
903    471  resson  topof  Mt.Zion.Mar. 

Mt.     Moriah     and     the 
903    471  Temple Mar. 

Holy  Sepulchre,  groups  of 
903  471  churches,  Greek,  Cath- 
903  471  olic,  Roman,  Armenian, 
Coptic  and  Abyssinian 
903  472  where  Christ  was 
903    472  buried Mar. 

424 


13, 
13, 
13. 

1903 
1903 
1903 

472 

473 
473 

13, 
13, 
13, 
13, 
13, 

1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 

473 
474 
474 
474 
47S 

13, 

1903 

47S 

13, 

1903 

47S 

13, 

1903 

47S 

13, 

1903 

47S 

13, 

1903 

476 

13, 

1903 

476 

13, 

1903 

477 

IS. 

IS. 

1903 
1903 

478 
478 

IS. 
IS. 

1903 
1903 

478 
479 

IS. 
IS. 

1903 
1903 

479 
479 

IS. 

1903 

479 

IS. 

1903 

480 

21, 

1903 

480 

21, 
21. 
21, 
21, 

1903 
1903 
1903 
1903 

480 
480 
481 

482 

21, 

1903 

482 

21, 
21, 

1903 
1903 

482 
482 

21, 

1903 

482 

21, 

1903 

482 

21, 

1903 

482 

21,  1903    482 


INDEX 


Overwhelming  sensation 
on  seeing  actual  spot  of 
Christ's  suffering Mar. 

Greek  Patriarch  and  pro- 
cession   Mar. 

Bethlehem,       more       un- 
changed     than      Jeru- 
salem   Mar. 

Showing  manger  where 
Christ  was  born Mar. 

City  walls  dating  from 
8th  Century Mar. 

Country  picturesque  and 
lovely  flowers Mar. 

Mosque  of  Omar,  on  site 
of  Soloman's  Temple.  .Mar. 

Rock  at  top  of  Mt. 
Moriah  where  Abraham 
offered  Isaac  as  sacri- 
fice  Mar. 

Mt.  of  Olives Mar. 

Jericho,  Dead  Sea  and 
the  river  Jordan Mar. 

Wicked  looking  Bedouin 
as  guard Mar. 

Road  made  for  German 
Emperor Mar. 

Decent  hotel  at  Jericho. Mar. 

Monastery  where  Elijah 
was  fed  by  ravens  .  .  .Mar. 

Mt.  Nebo,  where  Moses 
first  saw  the  promised 
land Mar. 

Dangerous  ride  to  the 
Dead  Sea .  .  — Mar. 

Swim  in  Dead  Sea Mar. 

Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  .  .Mar. 

Great  change  of  tem- 
perature from  cold  in 
Jerusalem  to  heat  of 
Jericho Mar. 

Descent    of    3500    ft.    to 

Dead  Sea Mar. 

Jordan  River  only  a 
creek Mar. 

Spot  where  Christ  was 
baptized Mar. 

Fill  can  with  Jordan 
water Mar. 

Bethany,  house  of  Mary 
and  Martha Mar. 

Lunch  at  the  Apostles' 
Fountain Mar. 

Shepheard's  Hotel,  Cairo  Mar. 

A  combination  of  Paris 
and  Saratoga Mar. 

General  von  Roeder  .  .  .  .Mar. 

Pyramids  and    Sphinx.  .Mar. 

Tombs  of  the  Mame- 
lukes  Mar. 


21, 

1903 

483 

21, 

1903 

483 

21, 

1903 

483 

21, 

1903 

483 

21, 

1903 

484 

21, 

1903 

484 

21, 

1903 

484 

21, 
21, 

1903 
1903 

484 

485 

21, 

1903 

485 

21, 

1903 

48s 

21, 
21, 

1903 
1903 

48s 
48s 

21, 

1903 

485 

21,  1903     485 


21, 
21, 
21, 

1903 
1903 
1903 

485 
48s 
485 

21, 

1903 

485 

21, 

1903 

485 

21, 

1903 

485 

21, 

1903 

485 

21, 

1903 

485 

21, 

1903 

486 

21, 
24, 

1903 
1903 

486 
486 

24, 
24, 
26, 

1903 
1903 
1903 

487 

487 
488 

26,  1903    488 


Disfigured  faces  of  chil- 
dren  Mar. 

Brugsch  Bey Mar. 

Mena  Hotel  on  edge  of 
Desert Mar. 

Mohammedan  Wedding. Mar. 

Elias  Bey's  giftof  ascarabMar. 

Lu.xor,  Lu.xor  Hotel Mar. 

Dusty  ride.  Summer  Heat 
and  flies Mar. 

Temple  of  Karnak Mar. 

French  Government  ex- 
cavations   Mar. 

Troops  of  natives  and 
overseers  with  whips.  .Mar. 

Avenues  of  sphinxes Mar. 

"Egypt  of  my  dreams". Mar. 

Lybian  Hills,  beyond  the 
'Nile Mar. 

Picturesque  boats Mar. 

Women  with  water  vases 
poised  on  their  heads. Mar. 

Misery  of  the  people.  .  .  .Mar. 

Thebes Mar. 

Tombs  of  the  Kings.  .  .  .Mar. 

Aboard  Auguste  Victoria .  Mar. 

Alexandria Mar. 

Presentation  of  silver 
bonbon  box  as  sou- 
venir of  Steam  Ship 
Company Mar. 

Palermo,  Sicily Mar. 

Messina  and  Taormina  .Apr. 

Hotel  St.  Domenica Apr. 

Mt.  Aetna Apr. 

Beautiful  Taormina Apr. 

True  Greek  theatre Apr. 

Pompeii Apr. 

La  Tosca  at  Naples Apr. 

Hotel  Bertolini Apr. 

Ascent  of  Mt.  Vesuvius. Apr. 

Rome Apr. 

Strike  of  cabmen Apr. 

Mrs.  Elliot's  house  near 
Palace  of  Queen  Marg- 
herita Apr. 

Old  Aurelian  wall Apr. 

Tea  rooms  on  the  Corso.Apr. 

Santa  Maria  Sopra  Mi- 
nerva   Apr. 

Pantheon Apr. 

Tombs  of  Victor  Emman- 
uel and  Umberto .Apr. 

St.  Peter's,  Miserere  sung 
by  Sistine  Choir Apr. 

Villa  Medici,  Borghese 
gardens Apr. 

Easter  Mass  at  St. 
Peter's Apr. 

Pincian  Hills Apr. 

Tivoli Apr. 


26, 

1903 

488 

26, 

1903 

488 

26, 

1903 

489 

27, 

.1903 

494 

27, 

1903 

491 

28, 

1903 

491 

28, 

1903 

491 

28, 

1903 

492 

28, 

1903 

492 

28, 

1903 

492 

28, 

q903 

492 

28, 

1903 

494 

28, 

1903 

495 

28, 

1903 

495 

28, 

1903 

495 

28, 

1903 

495 

28, 

1903 

495 

28, 

1903 

495 

29, 

1903 

496 

29, 

1903 

496 

29, 

1903 

496 

29, 

1903 

496 

2, 

1903 

496 

2, 

1903 

496 

2, 

1903 

496 

2, 

1903 

496 

2, 

1903 

497 

6, 

1903 

499 

6, 

1903 

499 

6, 

1903 

499 

6, 

1903 

499 

1903 

499 

1903 

499 

1903 

499 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

1903 

500 

17, 

1903 

501 

425 


INDEX 


Villa  d'Este  and  wonder- 
ful gardens Apr. 

Hadrian's  villa Apr. 

Cardinal  Rampolla Apr. 

Grand  Hotel Apr. 

Via  Appia  Nuova  and 
Campania Apr. 

Sabine  hills  and  Frascati  Apr. 

Rag  fair Apr. 

Barbcrini  Palace  and  Cas- 
tcllani's Apr. 

Baths  of  Diocletian Apr. 

Ezekiel  and  his  studio.  .Apr. 

Call  at  the  embassy  .  . .  .Apr. 

Lunch  at  Mrs.  Haseltine'sApr. 

Costanzi  Theatre,  Opera 
of  "Germania" Apr. 

Got  rosaries  from  Holy 
Sepulcher  in  Jerusalem 
and  Bethlehem  blessed 
by  the  Pope Apr. 

Villa   Doria-Pamfili    ....Apr. 

Monte  Janiculum,  Tas- 
so's  Oak Apr. 


>7. 

1903 

5C1 

17. 

1903 

SOI 

17, 

1903 

501 

17, 

1903 

501 

17, 

1903 

502 

17. 

1903 

502 

17, 

1903 

502 

17, 

1903 

502 

17, 

1903 

502 

17, 

1903 

502 

17, 

1903 

502 

17, 

1903 

502 

17, 1903   503 


17, 1903 

21,   1903 


503 
503 


21,  1903     503 


Mountains  covered   with 

snow Apr.  21,  1903  503 

Paris Apr.   29,  1903  504 

Dinner   at   "Tour    d'Ar- 

gent Apr.   29,  1903  504 

Dinner  at  Durand's Apr.  29,  1903  504 

Paillard's Apr.  29,  1903  504 

Visit  Marquise  de  Roch- 

ambeau Apr.  29,  1903  504 

Paris  decorated  to  re- 
ceive King  Edward.  .  .Apr.   29,  1903  504 

Caf6  Foyot May    3,  1903  505 

Concert  Rouge May     3,  1903  505 

Opera May     3,  1903  505 

Illuminations,     etc.,     for 

King  Edward May    3,  1903  505 

The  "Salon"  and  pic- 
tures  May    3,  1903  505 

Tea   and  strawberries  at 

cake  shop May     3,  1903  505 

Dinner     at     "Noel     and 

Peters" May    3,1903  505 

Madeleine  and  St.  Roch.May     3,  1903  505 

Lunch  at  "Viau's" May    3,1903  505 

Sails  for  New  York May     8,  1903  505 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 

Feb.  3rd,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

You  are  only  just  gone  but  I  thought  I  would  send  just  a 
line.  People  are  now  pouring  in.  The  band  was  playing 
something  of  Sousa's.  Just  now  while  I  was  beginning  this 
the  band  struck  up  the  Star  Spangled  Banner  and  the  lady 
sitting  next  to  me  burst  into  tears.  Her  husband  said,  "Oh,  it 
always  affects  you  so,  doesn't  it.^"  We  are  lucky  to  have 
such  a  nice  day.  I  shall  miss  you  very  much  and  do  so  wish 
you  had  thought  it  best  to  come.  Did  you  see  Guardabassi 
on  the  dock  near  you.^*  I  am  going  down  now  to  take  a  bite 
of  lunch  and  get  my  stateroom  fixed  up  and  then  I  shall  retire 
to  the  deck  to  stick  it  out  as  long  as  possible. 

I  forgot  to  tell  you  I  still  have  two  tickets  for  the  last 
Opera  night,  March  17th,  and  told  Laura  she  had  better  come 
up  and  use  them  with  you.  If  she  cannot  come  I  hope  you 
will  invite  some  one  to  go  with  you. 

I  must  go  now,  so  farewell,  take  care  of  yourself  and  take 
my  best  'ove.  I  meant  to  write  to  the  Adelmanns  to  ask  if  they 
could  give  me  any  letters  anywhere.  Won't  you  do  it  and  give 
them  a  list  of  our  stoppings.^    I  should  have  done  it  sooner. 

Your  loving,  M.  D.  R 


427 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Am  Bord,  Augustc  Victoria, 

February,  1903,  9  P.  M. 
Dear  Father, 

We  expect  to  get  to  Madeira  to-morrow  after  a  rough 
rainy  trip.  The  first  day  was  smooth  and  pleasant  but  since 
then  the  boat  has  been  continually  rolling  in  a  heavy  side 
sea.  I  missed  lunch  on  the  second  day  but  did  not  mind. 
Mother  w^as  pretty  ill  and  kept  in  her  cabin,  but  has  been  on 
deck  now  for  three  days.  We  have  well-placed  seats  at  table 
near  the  door.     The  food  is  greasy  and  covered  with  fancy 

sauces.     The  sleeping  cabins  are  very  stuflFy. 

Cliff. 

Auguste  Victoria,  Monday,  February  9th,  1903 

Just  after  lunch. 
Dear  Frank, 

As  I  want  to  enjoy  the  fresh  air  and  sunshine  I  will  begin 
my  letter  out  here  on  deck.  We  have  had  a  horrible  trip  and 
after  I  went  down  to  my  room  on  Tuesday  night  I  never  came 
up  again  until  Saturday  at  lunch  time,  and  even  since  then 


'■•\ 


S.  S.  AUGUSTE  VICTORIA 

it  has  been  almost  constantly  raining  and  blowing.  Wednes- 
day morning  we  got  into  warm  weather  and  it  was  uncom- 
fortably warm  in  the  staterooms  and  other  rooms  and  even 
on  deck.     They  have  had  to  keep  the  sides  wholly  enclosed 

on  account  of  the  wind  and  rain.     I  find  that  all  the  people  we 

428 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

know  are  going  to  get  oflP  at  Genoa,  some  to  go  to  Sicily  and 
others  to  stay  on  the  Riviera  and  to  Rome.  We  are  to  arrive 
at  Madeira.    It  is  hard  to  realize  we  are  off  the  coast  of  Africa. 

It  is  really  cooler  today  than  it  has  been  at  all  and  we  had 
fresh  air  in  the  stateroom  for  the  first  time.  Of  course  the 
worst  is  now  over  and  a  young  Mr.  Curtis,  a  college  friend  of 
Charley  Sinnickson's,  says  that  his  experience  is  that  it  is 
delightful  sailing  after  Gibraltar,  but  I  have  made  an  applica- 
tion for  a  stateroom  on  the  deck  above  where  I  can  always 
have  an  open  window,  for  I  seem  to  not  be  able  to  sleep  down 
there.  To-day  is  like  our  ordinary  summer  trips  across  the 
Atlantic,  but  it  has  been  much  warmer  hitherto.  They  say 
it  will  be  warm  in  Funchal.  We  arrive  there  some  time  in  the 
forenoon  and  spend  the  night  in  a  good  hotel  and  depart  at 
5  in  the  afternoon. 

Cooks'  people  take  us  up  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  funicu- 
laire  and  down  in  sledges  and  then  leave  us  to  ourselves. 

There  was  a  very  nice  service  yesterday,  and  they  prayed 
for  the  dear  ones  at  home.  I  have  missed  you  very  much ;  I  shall 
write  as  often  as  possible  and  hope  all  is  well  at  home.  I  wrote 
with  a  pencil  on  deck  and  am  now  in  the  conversation  room  to 
finish  up.  It  was  quite  gay  at  dinner  to-night  as  the  people  are 
beginning  to  get  acquainted.  The  food  is  very  beautifully 
garnished  and  served  but  rather  heavy.  A  man  who  looks 
exactly  like  Dr.  Lorenz  sits  opposite  and  he  is  a  Dr.  from  Berlin. 
A  young  German  with  him  who  has  reminded  us  of  Raban  has 
been  eating  everything  in  great  quantities  and  drinking  beer  and 
champagne  and  was  not  able  to  come  to  the  table.  I  have  been 
careful  picking  out  the  plain  things,  roasts  and  compote,  as 
much  as  possible.  Strange  to  say  while  the  weather  has  cleared 
it  is  colder  than  at  any  other  time  since  we  left  New  York. 

I  will  write  postals  to-morrow  and  write  a  long  letter  at  the 

first  opportunity.     I  suppose  the  ship  will  cable  our  arrival 

and  you  will  probably  know  it  by  noon.     With  much  love  to 

you  both  and  all  and  kind  regards  to  the  girls. 

Your  loving  wife,  M.  D.  R. 

429 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Am  Bord,  Augustc  Victoria, 
Leaving  Madeira,  February  nth,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  have  just  finished  dinner  and  a  very  good  one  it  was, 
after  coming  on  board  about  3  p.  m.  I  have  so  much  to  tell 
that  I  almost  dread  to  begin.  All  the  time  I  was  dressing  yes- 
terday morning  I  was  gazing  out  at  the  outlines  of  Madeira, 
rejoicing  beyond  words  that  I  was  going  to  put  my  feet  on 
land.  It  is  not  a  large  island  but  very  mountainous  and  very 
impressive  in  outline.     As  soon  as  the  ship  dropped  anchor 


FUNCHAL  FROM  THE  TERRACE 


little  boats  came  out  filled  with  half-dressed  boys  who  dove 
into  the  water  for  pennies  just  like  so  many  frogs,  then  we 
began  to  get  into  the  row  boats  to  go  to  the  shore.  The  water 
was  very  rough  and  we  had  to  jump  into  the  boat  when  it 
rose  on  a  wave,  and  then  we  danced  along  like  a  cork  on  top 
of  the  water.  You  would  have  been  amazed  to  see  my  agility 
and  freedom  from  any  sickness.  The  view  before  us  was  in- 
comparable, the  town  lay  on  the  side  of  the  mountains  slop- 
ing steeply  down  to  the  bay,  square,  white  plaster  houses, 
Portuguese  or  rather   Spanish    architecture,    dotted  all  over 

430 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

among  banana  trees,  fern,  palms,  and  the  outlines  of  moun- 
tains are  gorgeous  rising  out  of  the  sea,  something  to  re- 
member forever. 

The  harbor  was  formed  by  an  arm  of  stonework  which 
came  out  to  a  fortified  island  rising  straight  out  of  the 
water.  As  we  landed  the  bullock  carts  were  waiting  for  us 
and  it  was  all  so  wonderfully  strange — the  bullock  carts, 
as  all  the  vehicles  in  Funchal,  are  on  runners,  like  a  sled  and 
it  was  a  strange  sensation  to  be  jerked  along  zig-zag.  The 
streets  are  all  paved  with  very  small  pointed  stones  in  beau- 


FUXCHAL,  MADEIRA 

tiful  mosaic  patterns  in  many  cases  and  shine  like  glass  from 
the  oil  which  is  put  on  the  runners  to  make  them  slip 
along  As  we  came  from  the  mole  we  passed  along  a  high 
precipice  on  top  of  which  was  the  Casino,  then  we  went  to 
the  station  and  took  the  funicular  R.  R.  up  to  the  church  on 
the  hill  where  there  are  hotels,  and  we  lunched.  The  place  in 
a  way  reminded  me  of  Clovelly  as  the  streets  are  as  steep  but 
it  is  far  more  beautiful. 

We  had  taken  Cooks'  tickets  and  were  to  ride   down  in 
sledges   after   lunch;   they   were   flat   things   with    cushioned 

431 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

seats  and  a  man  on  cacli  side  to  hold  it  hack.  Mrs.  Potter, 
her  daughter  and  myself  came  in  one  and  were  pretty  well 
frightened,  but  one  would  quickly  get  used  to  it.  How  I 
wish  I  could  adequately  describe  the  wonderful  color  effects; 
all  the  houses  were  white  plaster  with  heavy  green  slatted 
shutters  to  keep  out  the  sun,  surrounded  by  tropical  gardens 
and  high  white  walls.  The  corners  were  arranged  as  a  sort 
of  loggia,  protected  by  trellises  covered  either  with  a  giant 
trumpet  vine  or  masses  of  the  Bougainvillea  vine,  such  masses 
of  color  and  w^hen  a  gate  would   be  open  in  a  high  wall  we 


■COASTING"  AT  FUNCHAL 


could  see  glorious  shady  gardens,  the  ground  covered  with 
myrtle  and  giant  camelia  trees  and  big  rose  trees  in  full 
bloom.  Another  bush  had  a  vivid  scarlet  flower  shaped  like 
hawthorn;  bunches  of  unfamiliar  flowers  were  on  giant  bushes 
and  the  ground  was  covered  with  pink  and  scarlet  geraniums 
and  heliotrope.  All  that  with  the  blue  sea  behind  was  a  dream. 
I  pity  the  people  who  cannot  see  it,  and  when  I  think  what 
you  have  missed  I  could  cry. 

The  sledges  brought  us  down  to  the  Santa  Clara  Hotel  in 
the  town  and  on  as  steep  a  street  as  the  hotel  in  Clovelly, 
They  met  us  with  the  information  that  not  a  room  could  be 

432 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

had,  but   Mrs.    Potter  and  I  refused  to  go  and  finally  they 
concluded  to  put  us  in  the  children's  room  in  the  garden. 

A  wharf  or  mole  of  masonry  opens  into  the  principal 
promenade,  which  was  of  bare  ground  with  a  row  of  big 
sycamore  or  plane  trees.  The  only  sign  of  winter  was  that 
certain  trees  had  not  their  foliage,  but  they  were  so  few 
that  they  were  not  noticed.  As  to  climate,  heaven  can- 
not have  a  better;  imagine  a  perfect  June  day  or  July  day 
with  a  delicious  cool  breeze  never  failing.    I  wore  thin  summer 


MOTHER'S  CARRIAGE,  MADEIRA 

clothing,  but  at  night  was  glad  of  my  coat.  The  hotel  was  so 
overcrowded  that  they  put  us  at  a  pretty  round  table  in  a 
small  room.  A  man  and  his  wife  whom  we  had  spoken  with 
were  at  our  table  and  he  asked  us  to  accept  some  cham- 
pagne to  drink  to  the  success  of  our  trip,  and  we  had  pretty 
flowers  and  a  good  dinner  and  an  altogether  good  time;  then 
we  adjourned  in  bullock  carts  to  the  Casino,  where  there  was 
a  ball  given  in  honor  of  the  ship's  arrival.  The  grounds  were 
decorated  with  colored  lights  and  inside  in  the  ball  room  and 
the  gambling  rooms  at  either  end  great  plateaus  of  camellias 

28  433 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and   other  flowers   were  everywhere  and   the  most  delicious 
refreshments  were  given. 

Clifford  had  to  go  back  to  the  ship  for  the  night.  When 
we  got  into  our  room  we  found  they  had  fixed  a  small 
room  for  mc  and  when  I  got  into  bed  there  was  no  blanket 
and  as  it  was  quite  cold,  being  on  the  ground  and  the 
stone  walls  very  thick,  I  had  to  put  my  skirt  over  me,  and 
my  coat  as  well,  and  then  I  was  afraid  to  move  for  fear  of 
throwing  off  covers  and  could  think  of  nothing  I  looked  like 
so  much  as  Brunhilde  in  the  Valkyrie. 

The  wicker  things  are  perfectly  fascinating  and  it  was 
comical  to  see  the  people  arriving  at  the  ship  this  after- 
noon with  every  sort  of  thing  in  wicker  from  birds  in  cages 
to  chairs  and  sofas.  It  is  a  great  temptation  to  buy.  Mrs. 
Potter  gave  away  two  or  three  dollars  in  pennies  to  beggars 
the  first  day,  so  to-day  she  was  a  little  more  careful.  At 
the  Hotel  there  was  a  terrace  like  the  deck  of  a  ship,  built 
up  very  high  between  the  street  and  the  garden,  where 
we  could  sit  and  a  fascinating  place  it  was.  In  the  little 
narrow  street  the  bullock  carts  slipping  along  and  the 
strange  cries  of  the  drivers  and  on  the  other  side  the  tropical 
garden,  and  in  the  distance  the  great  headland  at  the  North 
and  th^  picturesque  fort  on  the  Loo  rock,  and  the  sea  far 
below  I  shall  never  forget  as  long  as  I  live,  and  how  we  did 
enjoy  the  excitement  of  the  landings  and  the  strangeness  of 
everything. 

Aboard  Ship,  Thursday,  Feb.  I2th,  1903. 

I  wrote  as  long  as  I  could  last  night  but  couldn't  finish. 
We  are  now  arranging  for  our  tour  to  Granada.  Not  all 
are  going — like  you  they  have  not  courage  to  endure  the 
fatigue,  but  after  reading  the  description  in  Murray's  Hand 
Book  I  couldn't  stay  away.  Clifford  prefers  to  see  more  of 
Gibraltar  and  go  over  to  Tangier  for  one  day.  I  shall  write 
you  all  about  it  on  the  ship  en  route  to  Algiers.  I  am  in  the 
seventh  heaven,  if  it  were  not  for  my  hot  and  disagreeable 
stateroom.     I  fear  you  will  not  receive  my  postals  from  Eun- 

434 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

chal  until  after  this  as  there  are  not  many  mails  from  there. 
We  are  all  wrecks  to-day.  I  must  have  used  muscles  that  don't 
often  come  into  play.  Perhaps  the  Alhambra  will  not  be  so 
hard  on  us.  Mrs.  Potter  and  her  daughter  and  the  two  Crillys 
will  go  with  us  to  the  Alhambra.  I  must  say  good  bye  as  I 
fear  to  stay  inside  too  long.  It  is  much  cooler  and  more  motion 
than  this  morning.  We  must  have  passed  very  near  Ceuta, 
the  penal  settlement  on  the  African  coast.  I  hope  to  hear  at 
Genoa  that  you  are  all  well  and  not  too  unhappy,  when  you 
think  you  might  have  been  here  instead  of  ugly  Philadelphia. 
With  love  to  you  all  and  to  those  who  inquire. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Approaching  Gibraltar 
Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 

Feb.  1 2th,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

We  land  at  Gibraltar  early  to-morrow  morning  and  Mother 
goes  with  Mrs.  Potter  and  her  daughter  and  the  Miss  Crillys 
to  Granada,  while  I  go  to  Tangiers  with  a  party  of  men.  We 
had  an  ideal  time  at  Madeira  which  is  quite  the  prettiest  place 
I  have  ever  seen  with  the  exception  of  Porto  Rico.  We 
landed  the  first  day  and  went  up  the  mountain  on  a  cogwheel 
road  after  a  ride  in  a  bullock  sledge  over  cobble  paved  streets 
worn  smooth  and  shiny.  The  mountains  are  very  steep  and 
all  terraced  and  bright  green  with  sugar  cane  and  banana 
trees.  After  a  long  wait  we  had  a  nice  lunch  and  then  visited 
an  old  church.  We  coasted  down  the  mountain  2000  feet  on 
hand  sledges.  Went  to  the  Casino,  which  is  a  garden  spot 
on  top  of  a  precipice  overlooking  the  Ocean.  We  had  after- 
noon tea  there  and  then  dined  at  the  hotel  St.  Clara,  going 
afterwards  to  the  Casino  to  a  ball,  where  all  the  Americans 
played  roulette  and  lost,  your  son  among  others.  The  grounds 
there  are  filled  with  beautiful  tropical  trees  and  plants  and 
there  were  beautiful  illuminations.  We  have  had  beautiful 
moonlight  nights  and  uninterrupted  good  weather  for  the  last 

435 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

four  days.  Took  twelve  photos  and  hope  they  will  turn  out 
well.  Am  sure  you  would  have  enjoyed  the  island  of  Madeira. 
The  second  day  we  wandered  around  the  streets  and  went  to 
the  Casino  sailing  a'  five  in  the  afternoon.  To-day  is  Lin- 
coln's birthday  and  was  celebrated  this  morning  with  speeches, 
etc.  We  hear  that  there  were  bad  storms  just  after  we  left 
N.  Y.  and  that  there  was  very  cold  weather.  I  hope  you  were 
not  worried  about  us.  I  am  to  present  our  letters  at  Gibraltar, 
as  Mother  will  not  have  time. 

With  love  J.    C.  R. 

After  leaving  Gibraltar 
Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 

Feb.  i6th, 1903. 
Dear  Father, 

Mother  and  I  cannot  agree  which  of  us  had  the  better 
time,  she  at  Granada  or  I  at  Tangiers.     The  latter  place  has 


TAXGIERS 


rema'ned  as  yet  almost  entirely  unspoiled  by  European  influ- 
ences and  while  disgustingly  dirty  is  most  interesting.  We 
had  a  smooth  trip  over  of  four  hours  and  after  landing  we 
mounted  donkeys  and  started  off  sightseeing.    Saw  the  prison, 

436 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 


TANGIERS  FROM  THE  CITADEL 


WATCHING  A  SNAKE  CHARMER,   TANGIERS 


437 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

the  markets,  the  mosque,  the  citadel  and  a  snake  charmer. 
I  bought  a  silver  mounted  scimitar  dagger  and  a  powder  horn, 
of  what  looks  like  rhinoceros  horn  mounted  with  brass. 
Gibraltar  was  rather  disappointing  as  it  is  not  on  the  sea  as  I 
expected,  nor  is  it  the  most  southern  point  of  Spain.  The 
fortifications  of  course  are  wonderful.  We  spent  yesterday 
at  Malaga  and  enjoyed  the  Cathedral  there.  We  arrive  this 
afternoon  at  Algiers  which  I  am  led  to  understand  is  a  junior 
little  Paris.  We  both  keep  well  and  enjoy  the  trip.  We 
expect  to  find  some  letters  at  Genoa.  Weather  keeps  fine 
and  clear.  With  love,  J.  C   R. 

Auguste  Victoria 
Nearing  Algiers,   Feb.  i6th,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  suppose  you  will  find  our  letters  few  and  far  between, 
but  as  we   have  only  had   two  opportunities  to  post  letters 
you  understand  how  it  is.    I  sent  you  postal  cards  from  Gibral- 
tar Friday  morning  when  we  landed  for  an  hour  to  see  the 
town,  and  then  started  on  our  trip  to  the  Alhambra.    Clifford 
decided  to  go  with  a  party  to  Tangiers  and  I  went  with  Mrs. 
and  Miss  Potter  by  ferry  to  Algeciras  and  then  took  the  train. 
The  rock  of  Gibraltar  is  a  wonderful  sight  and  it  loomed 
up  higher  and  higher  as  we  drew  away  from  it  by  train .    We  had 
a  most  comfortable  carriage  with  all  the  conveniences  and 
very  clean.    Beside  our  party  of  five  the  Baroness  von  Ketteler 
and    her    sister  from    Detroit,   McMillan  were    also    in    our 
carriage,   they  were  very  interesting  people   and   were  very 
pleasant,  though  on  the  ship  they  seemed  to  keep  entirely  by 
themselves  and  their  surroundings  are  all  very  elegant  and 
even  their  leather  cushions  were  black  to  harmonize  with  their 
mourning. 

We  at  once  began  to  climb  into  the  mountains  and 
the  scenery  became  every  moment  more  impressive,  while 
the  fields  and  valleys  were  beautifully  cultivated,  giving  an 
impression  of  thrift  and  prosperity.     Orchards  of  olives  and 

438 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

almonds  all  over  the  hills  and  the  soil  a  rich  red.  The  effect 
of  the  groves  of  almond  trees  in  full  bloom  of  pale  pink  flowers 
against  the  bare  stony  tops  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  and  the 
dark -grey  green  of  the  olives  made  a  color  picture  well  worth 
travelling  far  to  see.  I  don't  think  the  cherry  blossoms  in 
Japan  can  equal  it. 


GIBRALTAR 


The  beggars  swarmed  about  us  at  every  stop  and  we 
were  soon  able  to  understand  what  they  said.  I  could 
very  easily  pick  up  Spanish  if  I  could  stay  here  a  few 
weeks.  All  the  women  (not  ladies)  that  are  in  the  streets  and 
about  the  stations  wear  their  hair  beautifully  coiffed  and  look 
very  neat;  only  the  Moors   that  we   saw  were  filthy. 

We  passed   through    Ronda,  a  beautifully-situated  place, 

439 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  considered  the  most  picturesque  in  Spain.  Undoubtedly  on 
this  trip  we  passed  through  the  most  beautiful  part  of  Spain, 
Andalusia.  We  also  saw  San  Francisco  and  Bobadilla;  at  the 
latter  town  I  discovered  some  fine  cakes  and  smelt  the  good 
coffee  and  as  we  were  delayed  there  Cooks'  man  decided  to 
treat  us  all  to  coffee  and  tea  and  we  had  quite  a  spree.  We 
got  to  Granada  at  about  seven  o'clock  and  were  taken  in  car- 
riages up  the  high  hill  to  the  Hotels  which  are  very  near  the 
Alhambra,  one  facing  the  other. 


IN  TANGIERS 


It  was   wintry  cold  and  after  a    great  deal  of   confusion 

w^e   got  our   rooms   in    the   Hotel   opposite   the   Washington 

Irving,   but   not    nearly   so   comfortable,    as  it    is   a    sort   of 

annex.     There   were   no   fires    and    we     almost    froze   while 

eating  our  dinners,  so  as  it  was  bright  moonlight   we   took 

a  guide,  a  handsome  young  Spaniard  with  a  long  cloak,  and 

wandered  all  about  the  Alhambra.     Ordinary  words  cannot 

convey  the  effect  of  that  view.     Far,  far  below  lay  the  old 

town  of  Granada,  beyond  the  Gypsy  Hill  where  they  live  in 

houses  scooped  out  of  the  side  of  the  hill  and  back  at  the  right, 

440 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

the  Sierra  Nevadas  covered  with  snow.  We  stayed  until 
midnight  and  then  went  to  our  icy  cold  rooms,  but  found 
warming  pans,  or  rather  bottles,  in  the  bed.  Everything  was 
scrupulously  clean,  and  in  the  morning  they  gave  us  each  a  soft 
wicker  bag  with  handle  with  a  lunch  for  the  return  journey. 
At  seven  we  were  called  and  at  eight  had  breakfast  and 
at  nine  were  off  to  see  the  Genaralife  Palace  and  gardens  and 
wonderful  indeed  were  they,  the  intricate  lace-like  carving, 
the  delicate  columns  and  arches,  against  the  deep  blue  sky, 


THE  ALHAMBRA 


were  wonderfully  beautiful.     We  walked  there  and  back  and 

then  to  the  Alhambra,  quite  a  climb  up  hill.    Charles  the  Fifth 

tore  away  some  of  the  finest  carving  and  covered  up  others 

with  plaster  ceilings  in  the  taste  of  that  period  and  now  they 

are  taking  that  away  and  find  the  original  coloring  which  they 

are  copying  in  the  restorations. 

After  we  had  been  taken  in  groups  through  all  those  wonders 

we  were  driven  through  the  old  part  of  Granada  and  out  to  a 

suppressed    Carthusian    monastery  where   they  showed  us  a 

chapel  constructed  of  the  marbles  from  the  Sierra  Nevada  of 

wonderful  colorings,  pink  and  coffee  color,  streaked  with  white. 

441 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

It  was  the  most  richly-dccoratcd  chapel  I  ever  saw,  with  carved 
marble  and  gilded  wood  carving.  The  sacristy  was  a  gem  with 
all  the  doors  and  chests  of  drawers  a  solid  mass  of  inlay  work  of 
tortoise  shell,  ivory  and  ebony,  in  Moorish  designs.  The  cathe- 
dral was  also  very  impressive  but  most  of  all  the  little  narrow 
streets  and  the  people  and  the  donkeys  with  their  queer  saddles. 

We  had  lunch  at  the  Hotel  and  drove  in  the  carriage  into 
the  town.  The  ship  sailed  immediately  and  when  I  awoke  in  the 
morning  we  were  at  Malaga.  This  city,  Malaga,  presents  a 
beautiful  picture  from  the  ship.  We  went  over  in  small  boats 
at  II,  and  had  an  early  lunch,  drove  out  to  see  the  new  villas 
and  went  all  over  the  cathedral,  which  looms  up  high  and 
square  above  the  City,  and  a  ruin  on  the  hill,  and  most  of  all 
enjoyed  roaming  through  the  streets  and  seeing  the  people 
and  trying  to  talk  with  them. 

We  are  so  impressed  in  Spain  by  the  number  of  blind 
people  we  see.  It  seems  as  if  one-fourth  of  the  whole  pop- 
ulation w^as  blind.  We  had  a  delicious  lunch  at  the  Hotel  de 
Roma  and  came  aboard  at  4  o'clock  and  sailed  at  5.  I  had 
reached  the  limit  of  my  strength  and  lay  in  my  chair  all  even- 
ing except  while  at  dinner.  The  weather  continues  heavenly, 
like  summer  in  the  sun  but  cool  in  the  shade.  I  took  a  slight 
cold  in  my  bronchi  at  Granada  and  my  throat  ached  with  fa- 
tigue, but  I  am  feeling  much  better  as  I  get  rested. 

We  land  at  five  o'clock  at  Algiers  and  expect  to  spend 
the  night  at  the  St.  George  Hotel  up  on  the  hill.  As  we 
have  not  yet  heard  a  word  from  you  w^e  are  beginning  to 
be  anxious  for  our  first  letters.  With  love  for  you  and  Sam, 
and  hoping  you  are  both  well  and  happy. 

Your  aff.  wife,  M.  D.  R. 

Grand  Hotel  de  I'Oasis,  Alger, 

Feb.  17th,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

For  fear  I  will  not  get  time  to-morrow  I  will  write  a  few 
words  to-night.     We  came  off  the  ship  yesterday  afternoon  to 

the  strains  of  the  Star  Spangled  Banner,  as  there  were  three 

442 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

of  our  warships  in  the  harbor,  and  altho  we  were  told  it  was 
of  no  use  to  try  to  get  rooms,  we  were  lucky  enough  to  find 
a  big  room  here  on  our  arrival  at  the  dock  in  little  boats. 
Clifford  concluded  to  sleep  on  board  ship.  Clifford  dined  with 
us  and  then  went  with  Walter  Cramp  for  the  evening.  We 
were  dead  tired  and  went  to  bed  early,  so  as  to  get  up  at  six 
thirty  to  make  the  excursion  to  Blidah  today  and  to  the  Gorge 
of  Chiffa. 


LANDING  AT  ALGIERS 


Our  drive  yesterday  was  up  around  the  fortifications 
on  the  heights  and  down  through  the  Arab  quarter,  ^a  series 
of  narrow  streets  crossed  by  flights  of  steep  steps  with  houses 
almost  touching  and  such  filth  and  such  picturesqueness 
it  would  be  hard  to  find.  This  morning  we  started  early 
without  Clifford  for  Blidah  by  train.  The  country  was  a 
great  surprise  to  me  as  it  might  have  been  New  England 
except  that  the  hedges  were  cactus  and  there  were  orange 
groves  behind  the  close  rows  of  pine  trees,  and  the  swarms 
of  Arabs  everywhere.  Also  we  expected  warm  weather 
as  it  was  very  warm  on  the  ship.     Instead  of  that  we  were 

443 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

perished  with  the  cold  all  day  long.  I  longed  for  my  fur 
cloak,  which  I  had  left  on  the  ship.  At  Blidah  carriages  were 
waiting  and  we  drove  through  the  market  place  and  saw  the 
Arabs  in  swarms  mixed  with  French  soldiers,  Chasseurs 
d'Afriquc  and  Zouaves  and  saw  the  fine  "pur  sang"  Arabian 
horses,  belonging  to  the  government  and  then  went  to  the 
Hotel    d'Orient    and  in  that  seemingly    far-away  Arab  town 


ALGIERS 

had  a  most  delicious  lunch.  The  table  was  beautiful 
with  plants  and  moss  baskets,  Tangerine  oranges  and  mer- 
ingues, etc.  We  had  fresh  green  peas,  and  were  presented  with 
a  bunch  of  sweet  violets  at  each  plate  and  at  the  station  an 
enormous  basket  of  Tangerines  was  brought  out  and  we  were 
told  to  take  all  we  wanted. 

In  spite  of  the  cold  weather  the  trees  are  leaving  out  and  the 
roses  are  blooming  and  we  are  eating  fresh  peas  and  asparagus. 

444 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

We  had  a  long  cold  drive  through  the  magnificent  gorge  of 
ChifTa  in  the  mountains  back  of  Algiers,  ancient  "  Alauritania.  " 
We  saw  no  monkeys.  Mr.  Walter  Cramp,  whom  we  saw  last 
eve,  said  there  were  swarms  of  them  in  warmer  weather.  We 
got  home  late  and  Clifford  had  left  word  he  had  been  invited 
out  to  dinner,  so  I  shall  have  to  fall  back  on  Cook  to  see  the 
city  of  Algiers  to-morrow  as  we  must  make  an  early  start. 
We  sail  at  five  in  the  afternoon  for  Genoa  and  will  probably 


BLIDAH 


have  a  rough  time  of  it  though  it  was  smoother  than  the  Sound 
coming  here  from  Malaga.  The  old  Roman  walls  and  the 
Moorish  houses  are  very  interesting.  Everything  else  is  as 
modem  as  Paris  and  the  contrast  is  violent.  We  expect  to 
stay  at  Nice  and  be  on  land  four  or  five  days  and  will  write 
from  there. 

As  I  am  sitting  up  now  after  every  one  else  to  write  this, 
you  must  please  forward  it  to  Laura,  as  it  is  really  impossible 
for  me  to  write  to  any  one  else.  With  love  to  you  and  Sam 
and  all  who  inquire.  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

445 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Am  Bord,  Aiiguste  Victoria, 
En  route  from  Algiers,  Feb.  19th,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

To-morrow  morning  we  land  at  Genoa  and  take  the  noon 
train  for  Nice.  We  had  cold,  cloudy  weather  which  dampened 
our  enthusiasm  at  Algiers.  The  place  is  a  modern  city  and 
the  Arab  quarter  too  civilized.  To-day  is  bright,  sunny  and 
smooth,  but  quite  cold.  Mother  has  all  her  things  packed  so 
we  can  walk  ashore.  We  fully  expect  to  find  our  first  home 
mail  and  are  looking  forward  to  reading  it  with  a  great  deal 
of  pleasure.  Many  people  leave  the  ship  at  Genoa  and  some 
new  ones  come  aboard,  so  w^e  won't  feel  so  much  at  home 
when  we  return  to  the  ship  at  Villefranche.  The  Moltke 
came  in  at  Algiers  the  day  we  left  with  450  Cook  excursionists. 
She  is  much  larger  than  our  boat  and  also  more  modern. 
The  chief  objection  to  this  boat  is  the  stuffiness  of  the  sleep- 
ing cabins.     Will  write  from  Nice. 

With  love  J.  C.  R. 

Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 

19th  Feb.  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

W^e  spent  the  day  looking  about  Algiers  in  the  Mosque, 
churches,  &c.,  and  walked  through  the  Arab  quarter.  It 
w^ould  be  hard  to  imagine  the  filth  and  squalor,  the  streets  as 
wide  as  our  front  hall,  the  shops  opening  on  them  without  any 
outlet  at  the  rear  and  the  houses  having  a  small  door  right 
on  the  street.  When  I  happened  to  see  one  open  I  looked  in; 
it  looked  quite  spacious  and  was  whitewashed  in  blue,  and 
looked  clean  enough.  We  came  aboard  about  4  o'clock — a  cold 
wind  blowing.  The  band  played  the  Star  Spangled  Banner 
as  we  passed  our  ships  the  Chicago  and  Machias,  and  we  were 
soon  out  at  sea,  rolling  and  pitching.  I  went  to  bed,  most  un- 
comfortable, expecting  to  be  violently  ill,  but  fortunately  went 
to  sleep  and  when  I  woke  up  found  there  was  no  motion.     I 

took  advantage  of  the  smooth  water  to  go  down  to  my  trunks 

446 


MADEIRA,  SPAIN  AND  ALGIERS 

in  the  hold  and  took  out  some  clothes  and  arranged  the  small 
trunk  for  Nice. 

We  intend  to  go  right  on  to  Nice,  and  as  I  tele- 
graphed from  Gibraltar  for  rooms  hope  we  can  get  them, 
but  they  say  Nice  is  crammed.  It  is  perfectly  wonderful  how 
all  the  places  are  jam  cram  full  of  people.  The  ship  stays  at 
Genoa  two  days  but  I  have  to  get  to  the  land  as  often  as  pos- 
sible to  get  rid  of  the  boat.     I  believe  this  is  about  the  worst 


BLIDAH 


trip  we  have  to  take,  and  it  is  as  smooth  as  a  mill  pond.  We 
hear  all  three  ships  are  to  be  at  Joppa  at  once  and  if  so  we 
may  have  to  sleep  in  tents  at  Jerusalem.  I  told  Cooks'  man 
I  would  not  do  it.  A  lady  on  board  told  me  that  the  nearer 
you  went  to  the  Equator  the  more  you  wanted  your  furs,  and 
I  have  found  it  true.  I  needed  my  heaviest  winter  clothing 
and  didn't  have  it.  We  hope  to  get  our  first  mail  to-morrow 
and  to  hear  how  you  all  are.  Tell  Sam  to  write  me  once  in 
a  while.     With  much  love  for  you  both. 


Your  aff. 


M.  D.  R. 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

Hotel  des  Anglais,  Nice, 

Dear  Frank,  ^'^-  ^°'^'  "^^'  '°  ^-  ^- 

After  a   very  smooth  trip   across  the  Mediterranean  we 

landed  this  morning  in  Genoa,   saying  good  bye  to  almost 

everyone.     Clifford  wanted  to  take  a  boat  called  the  Cobra 

w^hich  lay  just  beside  the  Auguste  Victoria,  but  I  wanted  to 

come  by  train,  so  we  took  our  things  to  the  station  and  then 

drove  around  Genoa  and  lunched  at  the  Eden  Palace  Hotel, 

high  up  on  one  of  the  hills,  with  a  lovely  garden  and  such 

cleanliness  and  quiet.     I  longed  to  stay  there.     Clifford  had 

played    bridge    with,    a    Mrs.    Brown    of    Providence    and    a 

Mrs.  Sewell  of  Pittsburgh,  and  Miss  Bonsall  and  her  sister, 

were  staying  there  and  Clifford  sent  them  some  flowers.     Miss 

Crilly  met  her  friend  Adiss  Wheeler,  daughter  of  General  Joe 

Wheeler,  and  invited  us  to  the  Hotel  Savoy  to  dinner,  but  we 

could  not  accept  as  we  decided  to  leave  on  the  noon  train. 

I  was  fortunate  enough  to  get  into  the  same  compartment 

with  Mrs.  Marion  Story,  whose  husband  is  a  cousin  of  Julian 

Story,    a    very    interesting   woman,    and    her   friend,    who  I 

think  was  a  Miss  Story,  but  now  a  Mrs.    Macdonald.    They 

were  most  friendly  and  said  they  were  sorry  they  had  made 

my  acquaintance  so  late  and  hoped  they  would  meet  me  again. 

They  go  to  Cannes  next  week.    We  had  telegraphed  here  from 

Gibraltar  a  week  ago  for  rooms  but  every  one  said  we  would 

have  great  difiiculty  to  get  in.    I  wanted  to  come  here  because 

448 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

it  is  where  Father  and  I  stayed  more  than  thirty  years  ago. 
We  found  the  omnibus  waiting  and  they  had  rooms  for  us  all 
right,  delightfully  clean  and  comfortable  at  ii  frcs.  each,  not 
cheap,  but  it  is  the  height  of  the  season  and  carnival  time. 
There  is  to  be  a  procession  on  Sunday  afternoon  and  the 
battle  of  flowers  on  Monday,  which  we  are  arranging  to  see. 
To-morrow  we  shall  go  to  Monte  Carlo  to  dine  and  spend  the 
evening,  so  we  are  going  to  be  very  gay.  We  got  our  first 
mail  this  morning  at  Genoa  and  glad  I  was  to  hear  from  you 


GENOA 


all.  There  seems  to  be  nothing  exciting  in  your  life.  What  a 
contrast  to  mine!  I  was  ideally  happy  going  along  the  Riviera 
to-day  and  repeating  my  experience  of  many  years  ago,  and 
all  I  regret  is  that  you  are  not  here  to  enjoy  it  with  me.  I 
cannot  tell  you  how  I  have  enjoyed  all  our  land  excursions. 
It  is  astonishing  how  much  we  have  seen  and  accomplished, 
but  it  is  a  perfect  whirl.  Just  think,  German  all  the  time  on  the 
ship  and  Portuguese  at  Madeira,  Spanish  atGibraltarand  Gran- 
ada, French  at  Algiers,  Arabic  at  Blidah,  Itahan  at  Genoa  and 
French  here,  and  think  of  all  we  have  ahead  of  us.  The  ship  part 

29  449 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

is  the  only  trial  but  most  of  the  people  enjoy  getting  back  to  it. 
It  has  been  very  warm  all  day  and  the  roses  are  in  full 
bloom  everywhere  and  violets  and  Narcissus  and  carnations 
out  of  doors.  We  could  see  them  picking  flowers,  from  the 
train,  and  such  quantities  of  orange  and  lemon  trees!  It 
seems  strange  that  the  coldest  place  should  have  been 
Africa.  Cliff  is  delighted  with  this  Hotel.  I  found  the  letter 
from  Mrs.  Elliot  asking  me  to  stay  with  her  in  Rome;  noth- 
ing  could    have   been   more  friendly.     The  Pembertons  from 


THE  WATER  FRONT,  NICE 

New  York  are  going  to  make  the  whole  tour  and  are 
about  the  only  people  I  care  for,  left  on  board.  I  am  so  tired, 
up  at  seven  this  morning  and  all  the  excitement  of  landing 
and  luggage  and  custom  houses,  travelling  all  day  and  now  it 
is  eleven  o'clock,  so  good  bye  and  with  much  love  and  hoping 
you  and  Sam  will  not  mope  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 


Monte  Carlo, 

Sunday,  Feb.  22nd,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

I  have  just  finished  a  light  supper  after  losing  last  night 
and  to-night  together  the  large  sum  of  ^29,  which  I  put  down 
to  profit  and  loss  and  experience.     We  landed  at  Genoa  day 

450 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

before  yesterday  and  after  a  pleasant  drive  and  lunch  took  a 
most  unpleasant  railroad  trip  of  eight  hours  by  which  we 
missed  a  lot  of  beautiful  scenery,  which  we  could  have  seen 
from  a  large  steamer,  which  makes  the  same  trip.  Nice  is  a 
very  beautiful  place,  but  we  came  up  here  for  dinner  at  the 
Cafe  Ciro  last  night,  returning  by  the  ten  o'clock  train.  To- 
day we  saw  the  Carnival  procession  and  joined  in  a  confetti 
fight.  Mother  was  tired  and  decided  to  stay  at  the  hotel,  so 
I  came  up  here  alone  and  am  returning  on  the  same  train  as 
last  night.  We  were  much  pleased  at  receiving  the  home  mail. 
To-morrow  we  see  the  flower  parade  at  Nice  and  sail  Tuesday 
from  Villefranche,  the  next  railroad  station  Our  hotel  is 
exceedingly  well  run.  With  love,  J.  C.  R. 

Hotel  Gallia,  Cannes, 
Mon.  Feb.,  23rd,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

Clifford  and  I  took  seats  for  the  Bataille  des  Fleurs  at 
Nice  this  afternoon  and  found  it  very  beautiful  and  amusing. 
I  never  saw  so  many  flowers  in  my  life,  for  not  only  were  hun- 
dreds of  carriages  decorated  solidly  all  over  with  such  flowers 
as  violets,  white  lilacs,  daisies,  tea  roses,  pink  roses  and  gilly 
flowers  in  pink  and  white,  and  yellow  daffodils,  for  which  we 
pay  a  dollar  a  dozen,  but  they  had  baskets  full  of  bunches  of 
flowers  to  throw  at  people.  Each  side  of  the  street  was  filled 
with  stands  and  all  the  people  down  in  the  stands  had  flowers 
and  pelted  each  other  mercilessly.  It  was  really  a  unique 
spectacle.  After  it  was  mostly  over  we  took  the  train  for  this 
place  and  had  just  time  enough  before  dark  to  get  a  glimpse 
of  this  place;  it  is  not  so  large  as  Nice  and  has  one  magnificent 
view,  to  the  west,  of  high  mountains  jutting  out  into  the  sea. 
We  saw  the  Margherita  and  the  Nahma,  N.  Y.  Y.  C.  in  the 
harbor.  This  Hotel  stands  up  high  on  the  hill  and  is  modern 
with  steam  heat  and  other  American  ideas.  Our  Hotel  at 
Nice  is  more  homelike  and  the  most  perfect  cooking  I  ever 
tasted.    We  were  to  have  come  here  yesterday  to  see  the  torch- 

451 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


THE  CARNIVAL,  NICE 


VILLEFRANCHE 


452 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

light  parade,  but  were  so  used  up  after  our  Carnival  experi- 
ences that  we  rested  instead  and  dined  at  our  Hotel  next 
table  but  one  to  the  Due  d'Orleans.  His  wife  had  the  most 
magnificent  jewels  I  ever  saw.  I  suppose  she  was  dressed  for 
the  Veglione  (the  great  Masked  Ball).  Were  we  not  lucky 
to  arrive  here  just  in  time  for  the  Carnival.?  I  don't  remember 
whether  I  wrote  you  on  Saturday,  but  I  think  it  was  Friday 
night.  We  went  out  to  Monte  Carlo  Saturday  afternoon  with 
the  young  man  and  his  bride  that  you  played  cards  with  at 
Hot  Springs.  We  saw  shoals  of  people  and  the  gambling  and 
dined  at  Ciro's,  the  swellest  restaurant.  Yesterday  we  had 
seats  for  the  Carnival  procession  and  had  to  wear  wire  masks 
and  cover  our  hats  and  cloaks.  It  was  a  great  sight;  there 
were  big  floats  much  more  artistic  than  anything  you  ever 
see  at  home  and  there  were  military  bands  of  only  bugles,  which 
played  in  the  most  wonderful  way,  throwing  the  bugles  up 
in  line  in  turn  in  a  way  I  never  saw.  The  great  square  was 
thronged  with  people  in  dominos  or  fancy  costumes  of  every 
color  and  all  wore  masks  and  hoods  fitting  tightly  over.  There 
was  a  continual  rain  of  confetti  (balls  of  lime)  and  every  place 
was  an  inch  deep  with  it.  We  are  going  to  dine  here  and  take 
the  8.40  train  back  to  Nice.  To-morrow  we  will  start  immedi- 
ately after  lunch  in  a  carriage  with  our  luggage  and  drive  to 
Villefranche  and  get  on  the  ship  which  will  sail  at  six  p.  m. 
for  Sicily.  This  little  stay  on  land  is  very  expensive,  but  it  is 
the  last  gaiety  we  will  have.    I  must  go  to  dinner,  so  good  bye. 

With  love,  M.  D.  R. 

Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 
Villefranche,  Feb.  23rd,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

Yours  No.  4  we  found  aboard  today  on  our  return  to  the 
ship.  Many  thanks!  Mother  has  changed  to  a  very  nice 
stateroom  but  I  have  decided  to  stay  where  I  am.  Mother 
and  I  went  to  Cannes  to  dinner  last  evening.  We  hope  to 
have  smooth  sea  as  it  is  like  glass  this  afternoon. 

With  love,  J.  C.  R. 

453 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

After  leaving  Villefranche. 

Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 

26th  Feb.  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  think  I  wrote  you  last  from  Nice  or  Cannes.  We  left 
there  the  next  day,  immediately  after  lunch,  took  a  carriage 
and  put  all  our  luggage  on  it.  As  the  last  carnival  frolic  was 
going  on  we  had  to  make  a  detour  to  avoid  it.  I  shall  always 
remember  the  trumpet  music  and  the  immense  crowds  all 
dancing  at  once  in  their  gay  colored  dominos.  We  had  a  most 
beautiful  ride  to  Villefranche,  but  while  the  warships  in  the 
harbor  made  a  beautiful  spectacle,  I  couldn't  bear  to  look  at 
this  ship  because  I  never  feel  the  same  on  it.  I  needed  to  get 
on  before  the  ship  started  as  I  wanted  to  see  about  my  state- 
room. I  could  not  stand  the  old  one  any  longer  because  when 
it  was  rough  I  could  not  have  fresh  air.  Now  I  have  taken 
one  on  the  next  deck  above  and  it  is  much  quieter  and  I  can 
have  my  port  hole  open  all  the  time. 

I  had  a  pain  in  my  head  yesterday,  but  spent  all  day  on 
deck  and  in  the  afternoon  we  passed  close  to  Ischia  and  then 
by  Capri.  It  was  hazy  and  the  sunset  was  a  wonderful  rosy 
glow  which  threw  out  the  outlines  of  Capri  so  that  it  was  a 
thing  of  beauty  to  remember  forever.  They  did  not  tell  us 
that  we  would  pass  near  Stromboli  at  midnight  but  those  who 
were  up  at  that  time  saw  it  in  eruption.  We  were  up  early 
this  morning  and  ready  to  get  off  at  Syracuse,  in  little  boats 
as  usual.  I  wonder  how  many  little  boats  I  have  been  in  since 
Feb.  3rd.^  Syracuse  from  the  ship  looked  like  the  pictures 
in  the  Bible,  of  Jerusalem,  dead  grey  stone  and  square  outlines; 
as  we  landed  we  found  a  lovely  walk  of  green  trees,  spring 
bloom  and  stone  seats.  There  we  hired  a  carriage  and  took  the 
Murray  program  for  one  day  in  Syracuse,  beginning  with  a  drive 
of  five  miles  out  into  a  cultivated  country  with  beautiful  groves 
of  orange  trees  to  the  great  fortress  of  Euryalus  built  800  B.  C. 

There  we  met  four  Germans,  one  of  them  an  old  Pro- 
fessor,   and    they    all    spoke    more    or    less    Italian    and    as 

454 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

the  guide  spoke  only  Italian  it  was  very  nice  to  be  with 
them.  The  walls  were  of  great  blocks  of  stone  of  Cyclopean 
proportions  and  the  whole  fort  of  immense  size  with  battle- 
ments where  men  on  horseback  could  go  about  and  great 
passages  through  the  rock.  The  whole  population  in  time  of 
siege  would  recede  from  one  wall  to  another  until  finally  they 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  AMPHITHEATRE,  SYRACUSE 

were  gathered  into  the  Fortress  itself.  The  palace  of  Diony- 
sius  was  above  all  in  solid  stone.  The  view  of  Mt.  Aetna  from 
here  was  colossal.  It  seemed  to  hang  in  the  clouds.  From 
there  we  came  back  to  the  Greek  theatre.  Just  as  I  happened 
to  look  up  I  saw  May  Reeves  standing  in  the  door!  I  thought 
I  was  dreaming  and  I  jumped  up  and  sure  enough  it  was  she, 
with  her  uncle  and  Miss  Tyson.  They  had  arrived  at  Syracuse 
from  Girgenti  and  saw  our  ship  in  the  harbor  and  sent  out  an 

455 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

invitation  to  dine  with  them  at  the  Villa  Politi,  but  we  didn't 
get  it,  and  so  they  came  on  board. 

We  sail  at  midnight  and  it  is  now  about  eleven,  and  they 
are  just  gone.  I  must  finish  so  as  to  post  this  to-morrow 
morning  at  Malta.  The  Greek  theatre  was  a  magnificent  ruin, 
an  out  of  door  theatre  with  seats  cut  out  of  solid  rock  and 


EAR  OF  DIONYSIUS,  SYRACUSE 

immense.  More  interesting  to  me  were  the  quarries  and  the 
Ear  of  Dionysius,  about  which  I  have  read  but  never  expected 
to  see.  It  is  cut  out  of  solid  rock  and  way  up  in  the  top  is  a 
little  opening  where  Dionysius  is  supposed  to  have  sat  to 
listen  to  the  talk  of  his  victims  in  the  prison  below.  The 
slightest  sound  can  be  heard  perfectly  in  every  part;  the  pic- 
tures give  you  no  idea  of  it.  A  church  near  by  was  most 
interesting,  as  the  oldest  Christian  church  in  Syracuse  and  has 

456 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

incorporated  an  old  Greek  temple.  In  the  crypt  is  where  St. 
Paul  preached  three  days  and  it  is  so  intensely  old  and  all  of 
solid  rock  one  cannot  but  be  immensely  impressed.  Then  we 
went  into  the  catacombs,  which  are  finer  than  those  in  Rome. 
It  was  first  a  place  of  burial  and  the  tombs  are  thick  and  close, 
solid  stone  coffins  and  later  were  places  of  refuge.  The  first 
Bishop  was  martyred  in  the  chapel  where  St.  Paul  preached, 
I  think  it  would  be  interesting  for  you  to  borrow  some  guide 
books  and  read  up,  as  we  go  along.  We  enjoyed  buying 
bunches  of  fresh  lemons  and  eating  them,  they  are  so  much 
riper  than  those  we  get. 

We  had  a  very  bad  lunch  in  the  Grand  Hotel  and  so 
after  seeing  the  Cathedral  (which  is  built  around  a  mag- 
nificent temple  in  whose  walls  the  great  fluted  columns 
with  Doric  tops  still  stand  out)  and  the  Fountain  of  Arethusa 
we  concluded  not  to  dine  in  the  town  but  to  go  out  on  the  ship. 
The  Reeves  are  going  on  to  Palermo,  I  believe,  and  up  to 
Rome,  and  may  possibly  join  this  ship  at  Genoa  and  go  home 
on  it.  Here  at  eleven  I  am  writing  and  yet  we  are  due  at 
Malta  early  in  the  morning  and  I  must  get  up  early  and  be 
sightseeing  all  day.  So  good  night.  Clifford  said  he  wrote 
you.  Tell  Sam  he  might  write.  I  got  your  first  letter  to-day 
at  Syracuse,  so  the  other  three  arrived  days  ago. 

With  love  for  you  both.  AflF'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

Malta,  27th  Feb.  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  got  oflF  this  morning  at  Malta,  where  there  is  a  fine 
harbor,  and  where  the  same  oriental  effect  continues  as  at 
Syracuse.  It  is  one  series  of  yellow  stone  walls,  one  above 
another,  up  to  the  tops  of  the  different  hills  and  islands.  We 
had  taken  Cook  tickets  and  found  a  long  string  of  carriages 
awaiting  us,  and  we  were  taken  a  long  six  mile  drive  to  the 
Citto  Vecchio,  on  top  of  a  high  hill,  inclosed  in  fortified  walls 
with  a  moat.  The  views  were  magnificent,  and  the  oldest 
church  in  the  town  had  a  crypt  connecting  with  the  catacombs, 
where  St.  Paul  once  stayed,  and  of  course  that  made  it  interest- 

457 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

ing.  The  main  streets  and  the  Governor's  Palace  and  Ar- 
mory and  the  great  church  of  St.  John  are  inside  of  two  walls 
and  two  moats.  I  forgot  to  say  that  we  visited  the  Governor's 
summer  palace  in  the  country,  walking  through  the  Public 
Gardens  and  as  we  were  going  out  the  Governor,  Lord  Gren- 
fell,  passed  us  in  a  fine  turnout  and  his  uniform  looked  more 
like  that  of  a  German  officer  than  an  Englishman. 

The  women  wear  a  sort  of  calash  on  the  head,  a 
wired  arrangement  which  is  a  combination  of  mantle 
and  bonnet  and  is  very  picturesque — they,  the  women, 
are  dark  and  pale,  with  straight  features.  All  the  shops 
are    like    in    Algiers,    sort    of    caves,    that    is,    all    the    light 


MALTA  FROM  THE  SEA 


comes  from  the  front  and  you  look  in  and  see  a  large 
dark  room  with  beds  and  chests  of  drawers  and  the  poorer 
people  seem  to  cook  and  keep  house  on  the  pavement.  They 
are  dirty  and  terrible  beggars.  We  were  taken  to  an  Italian 
restaurant,  where  it  was  impossible  to  eat  the  food,  so  after 
we  had  driven  round  the  town  and  seen  the  gorgeous  view 
from  the  highest  point  where  there  was  a  garden,  our  party, 
some  Pawtucket  and  New  York  people,  went  to  an  English  tea 
house  and  had  tea  and  hot  muffins  and  enjoyed  them  largely. 
The  streets  are  so  picturesque,  frequently  so  steep  as 
to  be  all  steps,  looking  down  one  saw  the  sea  and  harbor 
at  the  end,  with  always  the  contrast  between  the  stone  and 

458 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

the  blue.  One  never  sees  anything  but  stone,  not  a  vestige  of 
wood.  When  we  came  out  on  the  ship  at  six  we  found  the 
Promenade  deck  crowded  with  merchants  who  had  come  out 
from  the  town.  They  will  sell  things  for  almost  any  price 
rather  than  take  them  away.  I  got  a  piece  of  Maltese  lace 
as  a  souvenir.  Mr  Pemberton  took  me  to  see  his  rooms.  On 
account  of  his  wife  being  a  poor  sailor  and  not  strong  he  had 
a  large  room  at  the  back  of  the  ship  on  the  Promenade  deck 
partitioned  off  with  temporary  partitions  and  had  bells  put 


MALTA 

in  and  they  have  their  own  steward  and  a  brass  bed,  and  he 
also  stipulated  that  the  band  should  not  play  at  that  end. 
I  have  slept  so  much  better  since  I  changed  my  stateroom  and 
am  sure  it  was  wise. 

It  is  great  fun  getting  off  on  land,  but  two  hard  days  in 
succession  are  almost  too  fatiguing.  To-morrow  I  must  man- 
age to  pack  my  trunk  for  Athens  for  day  after  to-morrow  we 
land  at  Nauplia.  Fortunately  I  have  taken  Cook  tickets  only 
for  the  Railway  trip  to  Athens  and  propose  to  manage  alone 

459 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

at  Athens,  as  in  a  city  like  that  we  can  get  along  better.  I 
think  we  did  much  more  at  Syracuse  by  ourselves  than  today. 
Still  there  are  times  when  you  need  Cook,  for  special  trains, 
&c.  I  am  so  tired  I  must  stop.  I  am  only  happy  on  shore. 
I  wish  I  could  write  better  letters,  but  I  have  to  write  most 
of  them  when  either  very  tired  or  sea  sick. 

With  much  love,  and  hoping  you  are  both  well, 

Your  afT.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S.  I  must  add  a  few  words  this  morning  to  tell  you  of  the 
wonderful  weather.  Altho  we  are  crossing  the  Adriatic  and 
might  expect  a  counter  current  the  sea  is  like  glass.  I  thought 
we  must  be  at  anchor  until  I  looked  out  of  the  port  hole.  We 
have  not  had  a  single  day  of  rain  since  arriving  at  Madeira. 
Mr.  Pemberton  says  every  day  that  it  is  a  wonderful  voyage. 
I  could  not  wear  a  wrap  yesterday  at  Malta  and  have  all  my 
summer  clothing  on.  I  cannot  get  over  my  regret  that  you 
did  not  come.  It  is  one  continuous  spree.  Our  train  leaves 
Nauplia  for  Argos  and  Mycenae  at  8.35  tomorrow  and  we 
come  back  to  the  steamer  at  Kalamaki. 

After  Villefranche. 
Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria, 

Feb.  28th,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

We  certainly  have  been  lucky  in  having  good  weather,  but 
in  spite  of  that  fact  I  have  a  bad  cold.  We  left  Villefranche 
Tuesday  afternoon  after  a  beautiful  drive  from  Nice  and 
landed  at  Syracuse  which  was  most  interesting.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  got  a  good  carriage  and  pair  of  horses  and  with  the 
Pierces  went  out  to  the  fort  and  palace  of  Dionysius  the 
Tyrant.  It  was  a  beautiful  Springlike  drive.  Then  we  visited 
his  prison  called  his  ear.  He  sat  in  the  upper  end  and  the 
slightest  whisper  from  the  wretches  below  he  could  hear.  We 
visited  the  remains  of  the  Greek  theatre,  the  Roman  Amphi- 
theatre and  the  old  Christian  church,  where  Paul  preached 

460 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

for  three  days,  and  the  catacombs.  After  a  poor  lunch  we 
went  around  the  city  and  saw  the  Cathedral,  which  has  built 
in  its  wails  the  columns  of  the  ancient  Temple  of  Minerva. 
Malta  is  a  very  fine  harbor  and  is  very  thickly  populated. 
Hope  you  and  Sam  are  having  a  good  time. 

With  love,  J.  C.  R. 

Am  Bord,  Auguste  Victoria,  March  i,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

The  first  day  of  Spring  and  although  there  was  snow  on 
the  mountains  it  was  as  warm  as  May.  It  has  been  a  very 
amusing  and  interesting  day.    We  made  an  early  start  to  take 


TYRYXS,  GREECE 


the  8.35  train  at  Nauplia.  The  scene  was  beautiful  as  we 
rowed  in  little  boats  from  the  ship  to  land.  High  snow  moun- 
tains in  the  distance  and  a  clear  crisp  atmosphere,  and  a  very 
precipitous  rock,  an  Acropolis,  immediately  behind  the  town, 
which  serves  as  a  general  prison  for  all  Greece.  The  buglers 
were  blowing  the  Assembly  call  and  it  was  very  still  on  the 

water.     We  were  only  a  short  time  in  the  train  when  we  got 

461 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

out  and  walked  up  to  the  Acropolis  at  Tyryns  where  the  great 
Cyclopean  walls  were  built  two  thousand  years  before  Christ. 
It  was  the  birth  place"  of  Hercules  and  near  by  he  slew  the 
Hydra-headed  Snake.  At  Tyryns  the  walls  are  of  unhewn 
stones  of  prodigious  size  and  the  many  passage  ways  were 
vaulted  by  approaching  the  horizontal  rows  of  stones  a  little 
nearer  to  each  other  until  they  met  at  the  top  making  a  high 
pointed  arch.    All  this  was  destroyed  446  Before  Christ. 

The  whole  country  is  desolate  looking  but  very  beautiful. 
There  were  many  iiocks  of  sheep  and  the  shepherds  with  their 


-r*^- 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  JUPITER,  ATHENS 

short  white  ruffled  skirts  and  peculiar  woolen  coats  all  helped  to 

make  a  memorable  day.     We  next  stopped  at  Mycenae,  which 

was  Agamemnon's  city  and  a  great  and  rich  city.     Now  there 

exists  only  what  Dr.   Schlieman  has  excavated,  namely  the 

palace  of  Agamemnon,  on  the  top  of  a  very  high  hill,  which 

we  reached  by  open  carriages  and  funny  painted  carts,  the 

drivers  in  all  sorts  of  costumes.     There,   after  seeing  more 

Cyclopean  walls,  but  this  time  of  hewn  stones  and  the  treasure 

vaults,  where  Dr.   Schlieman  found  25,000  dollars  worth  of 

treasure,  w^hich  we  will  see  in  Athens,  we  had  our  lunch.    The 

462 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

view  and  the  air  were  glorious.  We  had  been  given  boxes  of 
lunch  from  the  ship  and  a  number  of  the  stewards  were  sent 
along  with  napkins  and  glasses.  I  took  my  tea  basket  and 
made  tea  on  the  historic  place  and  we  had  wine  and  mineral 
water  and  sandwiches  and  hard  boiled  eggs  and  plenty  of 
oranges.  It  was  delightful!  A  little  distance  from  there  on 
our  return  we  saw  the  most  wonderful  of  all,  the  tomb  of 
Agamemnon,  a  circular  vault  coming  to  a  sharp  point  60  feet 
high  and  made  of  colossal  stones,  without  anything  to  hold 
them  together.    There  was  a  square  entrance,  with  one  enor- 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  THESEUS,  ATHENS 

mous  stone  across  which  is  large  beyond  belief.  On  our  way 
back  to  Kalamaki  we  came  over  a  high  pass  and  in  one  town 
saw  peasants  in  costume  dancing  and  old  Corinth  (the  Acrop- 
olis) up  on  the  hill  and  then  new  Corinth  and  along  the  bay, 
where  Paul  must  often  have  been  during  his  18  months  in 
Corinth,  then  came  the  Isthmus  and  the  new  canal,  which 
gives  the  effect  of  being  sliced  right  down  through  yellow  rock 
and  is  very  strange.  I  am  so  dead  tired  I  must  stop,  so  good 
bye,  with  much  love.  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 


463 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Hotel  Grande  Bretagne,  Athenes. 

Tues.,  March  3rd,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

To-day  is  rainy  but  we  spent  nevertheless  the  morning  at 
the  AcropoHs.  At  two  o'clock  we  start  again  and  go  to  the 
museums.  In  a  drive  yesterday  afternoon  I  saw  the  Uni- 
versity buildings,  which  are  of  white  marble  and  carvings 
covered  with  gold  sheets.  The  whole  is  in  the  best  Greek 
style  and  very  beautiful.  The  hotel  is  good.  It  looks  now 
as  if  we  would  not  be  allowed  to  go  to  Damascus  as  there  is 
cholera  there  and  the  ship  would  be  quarantined;  if  it  breaks 
out  at  Jerusalem  we  will  go  to  Alexandria  and  have  time  to 
go  up  the  Nile.  I  hope  you  and  Sam  are  well  and  having  a 
good  time  With  love,  J.  C.  R. 

From  Greece — aboard  Auguste  Victoria. 

March  4th,  1903 
Dear  Frank, 

I  wonder  if  you  remember  that  to-morrow  is  the  thirtieth 
anniversary  of  our  wedding  day.  I  think  it  is  the  first  time 
we  have  been  separated  at  that  date.  I  hope  it  will  find  you 
well.  We  have  just  sailed  from  the  Piraeus  and  it  is  blowing 
up  cold  and  getting  rough,  so  I  may  not  be  able  to  do  much 
writing.  We  left  Kalamaki  Monday  morning  early  and  took 
the  train  for  Corinth  and  went  in  chariots  (the  real  name  for 
the  two-wheeled  carts  they  use),  to  old  Corinth,  where  there 
are  some  beautiful  ruins,  and  then  we  took  donkeys,  mules 
and  horses  to  go  up  the  Acropolis,  which  is  1700  ft.  above  and 
has  the  finest  view  in  Greece.  I  struck  a  mule  that  turned 
out  to  be  lame  and  developed  a  great  desire  to  get  rid  of  me, 
so  that  before  we  got  to  the  top  I  jumped  off  in  a  great  fright 
when  he  turned  on  the  edge  of  a  fearful  precipice  and  gave 
a  snort  of  fright  or  something  else.  I  had  a  long  climb  to  the 
top  and  then  went  all  the  way  back  to  old  Corinth  on  foot 
and  it  is  the  hardest  jaunt  I  ever  undertook.     We  got  into  a 

car  with  Mrs.  S  and  Miss  S  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  F,  all  very  nice 

464 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN 

intelligent  people,  and  we  had  great  fun.  We  started  in  the 
chariots  with  a  man  in  full  Greek  costume  playing  on  a  pipe, 
which  sounded  exactly  like  a  bag  pipe.  The  atmosphere  was 
perfect  and  it  was  a  joy  to  live,  the  sky  and  sea  as  blue  as  a 
sapphire  and  when  the  women  got  on  the  donkeys  astride  it 
was  a  sight  to  see.  We  got  into  Athens  just  before  dark  and 
were  glad  to  find  a  beautiful  hotel  with  a  nice  large  reading 
and  writing  room  and  a  fire.  Clifford  had  sent  our  letters  and 
cards  to  the  Jacksons*  who  were  living  in  the  Hotel  and  they 
asked  us  to  dine  with  them  the  next  evening. 

The  next  day,  yesterday,  we  had  our  first  rain,  spring 
showers,  and  we  took  a  carriage  and  went  first  to  the  Acropolis 
in  the  rain  and  it  was  very  beautiful  even  then,  and  explored 
the  Museum  In  the  afternoon  it  cleared  and  we  visited  all 
the  ruins  and  ended  at  the  Acropolis  again  and  had  a  fairly  good 
view  and  the  last  thing  stopped  at  the  Stadium,  where  they  have 
the  Olympic  games.  A  millionaire  gave  the  money  to  put  new 
white  marble  seats  over  the  old  ones  and  as  it  holds  50,000 
people  you  can  imagine  the  size  of  it,  the  shape  is  that  of  an 
ellipse.  In  the  National  Museum  we  found  the  treasures  Dr. 
Schlieman  had  found  at  Adycense  and  enjoyed  them  doubly. 
When  I  got  back  I  found  an  enormous  bunch  of  double  violets 
from  Mrs.  Jackson,  which  I  carried  to  the  dinner  and  found 
the  captain  of  our  ship  was  the  other  guest.  I  think  I  must 
stop  as  it  is  getting  very  rough. 

Thursday.  Mother  is  not  feeling  well  and  asks  me  to 
finish,  so  it  can  be  posted  when  we  arrive  at  5  p.  m. 
Smoother  now  and  Mother  feels  better.  We  probably  cannot 
land  till  9  to-morrow  morning.  Expect  to  find  mail.  We  shall 
probably  live  on  the  boat  and  not  stay  at  the  Hotel  ashore 
as  they  say  the  town  is  very  dirty.  Cold  and  rainy  this 
morning.  Have  passed  the  Dardanelles  and  are  in  the  sea  of 
Marmora. 

With  love,  J.  C.  R. 

*  Mr.  Jackson  was  the  American  Minister  to  Greece. 
30 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

Pera-Palace,  Constantinople. 

March  7,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  came  out  from  dinner  very  tired  after  a  hard  day's  work 
in  a  cold  misty  rain  and  stopped  to  talk  with  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Fowler  of  New  York,  perfectly  charming  people,  who  know 
Alex,  van  Rensselaer  and  loads  of  Philadelphians  we  know, 
and  now  it  is  very  late  for  me  to  write  any  detailed  account 
of  what  we  have  seen  in  the  last  two  days,  in  spite  of  weather. 
We  arrived  before  Constantinople  in  a  howling  wind  and  cold 
rain  at  five  o'clock.  Fowlers  got  oif,  but  Clifford  persuaded  me 
to  stay  on  the  boat  and  altho  we  had  taken  Cook  for  two  days, 
we  did  not  come  to  the  Hotel  until  last  evening.  To  our  de- 
light we  found  it  heated  by  steam  heat,  as  we  were  chilled 
through  from  riding  about  in  carriages  all  day.  It  was  too 
bad  to  have  two  days  of  bad  weather  as  we  have  not  been 
able  to  see  an  outline  and  this  place  needs  sunlight  and  color 
to  bring  out  its  beauties.  We  first  drove  for  an  hour  through 
the  worst  filth  I  ever  saw,  regular  bogs  of  mud  and  sewage 
sometimes  a  foot  deep,  up  to  the  Yildiz  Kiosk  to  see  the  Sultan 
go  to  church,  and  it  was  a  great  sight.  Cliif  and  Mrs.  E,  Miss 
S.,  a  Swedish  man  and  myself,  and  we  three  women  were  per- 
mitted to  cling  to  an  iron  railing  on  top  of  a  stone  walk  right 
among  the  soldiers  who  lined  every  approach  to  the  Mosque. 

There  we  saw  everything,  the  most  gorgeous   military  and 

466 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

civil  uniforms  and  thousands  of  soldiers  The  Fowlers  had 
applied  to  our  minister  and  were  on  the  Sultan's  terrace,  but 
they  had  to  give  up  their  umbrellas  and  were  pushed  about. 
After  two  lines  of  officials  from  the  Palace  had  passed  into  the 
Mosque  there  was  a  hush  and  the  Sultan's  carriage  appeared, 
a  sort  of  victoria,  then  all  the  soldiers  crouched  down  and 
motioned  us  to  do  the  same  and  they  seemed  to  cross  them- 
selves, and  then  I  heard  a  queer  quavering  voice  way  up  some- 
where and  looking  up  saw  the  Muezzin  on  the  Minaret  and 
he  was  calling  to  prayer,  and  then  they  all  gave  a  great  shout 
three  times  and  the  Sultan  drove  rapidly  by  into  the  Mosque, 
I  got  a  good  look  at  him.  The  trumpet  music  was  fine  before 
all  this  and  we  admired  the  appearance  of  the  troops.  They 
are  big  men  and  strange  to  say,  not  many  are  dark.  The 
horses  are  fine,  also,  and  well  cared  for.  All  animals  here 
look  well  cared  for  and  the  Turks  seem  to  be  much  more 
gentle  and  kind  towards  them  than  the  Greeks  or  Spaniards 
and  Italians,  but  it  is  impossible  to  describe  the  general 
dilapidation.  I  think  that  after  the  Turks  came  in  here,  when 
they  conquered  Constantine,  that  they  settled  down  amid  the 
ruins  and  have  never  repaved  anything  since.  The  ordinary 
streets  here  are  worse  than  the  worst  roads  around  St.  Louis 
after  a  thaw,  and  there  is  no  drainage  and  they  throw  all 
refuse  into  the  streets,  and  leave  the  dogs  to  clean  it  up  at 
night;  as  a  consequence  the  dogs  fight  and  bark  all  night  long. 
I  have  bought  some  good  photos,  which  will  give  you  an  idea 
of  the  place.  Last  eve  there  was  a  dance  after  the  dinner  was 
over,  and  I  danced.  We  have  done  a  lot  to-day,  three  mosques 
and  the  white  palace  along  the  Bosphorus  and  the  Museum 
and  Treasury  and  went  into  the  Bazaars  (lo  miles  of  streets 
covered).  Everywhere  we  go  the  streets  and  squares  are 
filled  with  sheep  (much  larger  and  finer  looking  than  ours) 
even  the  steps  of  the  mosques  are  covered  with  them,  and  on 
Monday  they  will  be  slaughtered  and  every  person  in  Con- 
stantinople will  have  meat  to  eat.     The  Sultan  begins  it  at 

467 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

5  A.  M.,  and  as  far  as  I  can  learn  the  slaughtering  Is  done  in 
the  street  and  it  will  be  a  dreadful  sight.  We  are  going  on 
board  Sunday  night  as  if  it  is  fair  the  ship  will  sail  up  the 
Bosphorus  to  the  Black  Sea  at  9  a.  m.  and  returning  leaves 
here  at  noon.  I  am  going  with  the  Fowlers  to  the  American 
College  for  Girls  in  Scutari  tomorrow  forenoon  for  service  and 
at  7  p.  M.  the  mosques  are  all  to  be  illuminated. 

With  love  to  all,  M.  D.  R 

Pera-Palace,  Constantinople, 
March  7th,  1903. 
Dear  Father 

We  arrived  here  on  the  afternoon  of  day  before  yesterday 
in  a  hard  rain  with  a  very  cold  wind  blowing  and  so  did  not 


YILDIZ  KIOSK,  THE  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  SULTAN 

land  till  the  next  day.    The  weather  has  remained  just  as  bad, 

but   we   have   spent   the   two   days   ashore   notwithstanding. 

468 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

The  first  morning  we  saw  the  Sultan  on  his  way  to  mosque 
with  a  lot  of  soldiers  all  armed  with  out  of  date  rifles.  In  the 
afternoon  saw  a  mosque  which  was  once  the  oldest  Christian 
church  This  morning  we  went  to  two  mosques,  large  ones, 
and  the  Sultan's  treasury,  which  I  thought  very  interesting. 
There  was  a  throne  of  gold  set  with  pearls,  rubies  and  emer- 
alds After  lunch  we  went  to  the  last  Sultan's  palace  on  the 
Bosphorus.  A  beautiful  building  with  a  beautiful  view,  but 
ruined  by  bad  interior  decorations  and  furniture.  Then 
another  mosque  and  the  bazaars.  To-morrow,  Sunday,  Mother 
is  going  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fowler  of  N.  Y.  to  some  Presby- 
terian school  and  I  am  going  to  the  bazaars,  meeting  Mother 
at  lunch.  In  the  evening  the  mosques  are  to  be  illuminated 
as  the  Turkish  Easter  is  at  hand  and  we  wish  to  go  to  a  mosque 
at  night.  We  go  aboard  again  late  to-morrow  night  and  sail 
up  the  Bosphorus  and  back  Monday  morning  and  sail  at  noon 
for  Beyrout  the  port  of  Baalbec  and  Damascus. 

With  love  to  you  and  Sam.  Cliff, 

Constantinople,  Aboard  Auguste  Victoria. 

8th  March,  1903. 

Dear  Frank, 

When  we  came  on  board  ship  at  six  o'clock  we  found  your 

seventh  letter  and  are  glad  that  you  are  going  out  a  little. 

This   morning,    Sunday,   Mr.    and   Mrs.    Fowler   and   myself 

went  over  to  Scutari  to  the  American  college,  as  Miss  Patrick 

had  written  asking  me  to  come  and  the  Fowlers  had  letters 

to  her.     The  road  was  so  fearful  I  expected  to  end  my  life 

then  and  there,  but  we  arrived  safely  and  they  seemed  much 

pleased  to  see  us,  showed  us  the  college  and  then  we  attended 

service.    After  lunch  we  went  to  some  of  the  shops,  but  they 

were  most  y  closed  as  they  were  preparing  for  the  Feast  of 

Beiram,  and  as  we  came  out  to  the  ship  the  cannons  were 

booming  the  opening  of  the  Feast.     Tomorrow  morning  at  5 

469 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

they  slaughter  the  sheep.  The  streets  have  been  full  of  them 
for  days  and  the  rich  are  supposed  to  give  them  to  the  poor. 
The  Sultan  has  bought  two  thousand  to  present  to  the  poor. 
I  wouldn't  have  been  in  the  city  to-morrow  morning  for  any- 
thing; the  streets  will  be  a  terrible  sight.  We  met  hundreds 
with  sheep  on  their  backs  with  their  forelegs  around  their 
necks  and  looking  so  pathetic.  We  also  went  to-day  into  the 
place  where  the  Sultan  buys  his  Loukoum  or  "Turkish  De- 
light." They  had  big  wood  fires  in  the  dark  back  of  the  shop 
and  were  stirring  big  cauldrons,  but  it  was  cleanly  enough  and 
lots  of  French  and  Germans  came  in  to  buy  candy.  When  we 
were  at  the  Treasury  yesterday  we  were  treated  by  the  Sul- 
tan's orders  to  Rose  conserve  and  colfee.  To-day  the  Sultan 
sent  on  board  this  ship  a  giant  bouquet  of  camellias  and  azaleas 
to  the  ladies  and  some  "loukoum"  and  it  was  passed  round 
at  dinner. 

Coming  out  to-night  the  outlines  of  the  mosques  were 
beautiful,  although  there  were  still  the  dark  heavy  clouds. 
It  was  gay  at  dinner  to-night,  every  one  seemed  to  be  glad  to 
get  away  from  Constantinople's  dirt  and  Turks.  To-morrow 
at  ten  we  start  for  the  Black  Sea  and  then  returning  sail  for 
Beyrout  at  one  o'clock.  Mr.  M.  thinks  I  will  have  brain  fever; 
I  work  so  hard  between  seeing,  reading  up  and  writing.  There 
was  a  nurse,  who  had  been  with  Weir  Mitchell  and  had  met 
Joe,  at  the  College  at  Scutari  and  that  is  how  they  happened 
to  write  to  me.  I  hope  all  understand  that  until  I  can  stop 
long  enough  somewhere  I  cannot  write  more  than  I  do.  I 
am  now  writing  in  a  small  room  with  Mrs.  E.  singing  La  Tosca, 
and  lots  of  people  talking.  The  decks  are  covered  with  rugs 
and  things  for  sale,  and  it  is  very  cold  so  we  are  glad  to  stay 
in  and  keep  warm. 

I   am    so    tired    and    must    go    to   bed.      So   hoping   you 

are   all  well    and    happy,    and    with    love   to   all  the   family 

and  friends. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

470 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

On  Board  after  leaving  Constantinople. 

March  nth,  1903. 
Dear  Frank  and  Sam, 

We  came  out  from  Constantinople  Monday  at  one  o'clock 
after  a  pleasant  but  very  cold  run  up  through  the  Bosphorus. 
The  German  Ambassador  and  his  wife.  Baron  Marshall  von 
Bieberstein,  or  something  like  that,  were  on  board  for  the 
trip,  but  no  one  met  them  but  the  German  officers.  She  was 
a  perfect  beauty.  That  evening  at  dinner  we  had  quite  a 
surprise — first  large  bouquets  were  passed  around  that  the 
Sultan  had  sent  on  board  and  then  each  lady  was  presented 
with  a  box  of  sweets  and  each  man  with  a  box  of  cigarettes. 
The  Sultan  only  does  this  for  the  passengers  of  the  Auguste 
Victoria  and  yet  they  say  that  from  the  moment  we  landed  we 
were  shadowed  constantly  by  detectives,  though  we  were 
not  conscious  of  it,  and  I  imagine  we  all  spoke  as  freely  as 
we  chose  of  the  dreadful  state  of  affairs.  I  remember  say- 
ing in  a  photograph  shop  that  if  I  were  the  Sultan  I  would 
sell  the  magnificent  throne  that  was  stolen  from  Persia 
and  clean  and  pave  the  streets.  However  I  was  not  put 
in  prison  for  it. 

Last  evening  at  dinner  five  people  had  birthday  parties  and 
champagne.  Mine  comes  tomorrow,  March  12th  (my  57th), 
and  a  young  Swede  has  his  to-day.  At  last  the  weather  is  fine 
— it  is  sunny  and  very  warm,  but  they  tell  us  to  prepare  for 
cold  at  Damascus  as  the  Lebanon  Mts.  are  covered  with  snow. 
We  are  sitting  on  deck  without  wraps  just  as  we  would  be  in 
the  house  and  are  seeing  the  West  coast  of  Cyprus  now  at 
3  p.  M.  In  the  night  we  passed  the  island  of  Rhodes  and  the 
night  before  when  we  came  out  of  the  Dardanelles  we  were 
close  to  the  plains  of  Troy.  It  is  hard  to  realize  where  we 
are.  We  land  at  Beyrout  early  to-morrow  morning  and  take 
an  early  and  special  train  to  Baalbec,  where  we  spend  the  first 
night  and  then  on  to  Damascus.  I  will  write  you  from  there. 
I  don't  know  whether  I  wrote  you  that  the  Sultan  did  not 
have  the  Treasury  opened  for  any  of  the  steamers  but  the 

471 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Auguste  Victoria,  and  after  we  had  seen  it  we  were  served 
with  coffee  and  rose  conserve  by  his  orders. 

I  regret  every  day,  more,  that  you  didn't  come  along. 
You  would  have  found  agreeable  companions  among  the  men, 
especially  Mr.  Fowler.  He  and  his  wife  and  Mrs.  Stryker 
and  a  Miss  Stevenson,  Clifford  and  myself  have  arranged 
with  Cook  to  be  together  on  this  trip  and  Jerusalem.  I  am 
fortunate  in  feeling  better  than  I  have  at  all  and  feel  so  rested 
to-day  after  two  good  nights  on  the  ship.  It  seems  so  strange 
that  you  have  not  yet  had  a  line  from  us  and  I  can  imagine 
the  time  seems  long.  Probably  I  shall  find  letters  at  Beyrout 
to-morrow  morning  saying  you  have  our  first  letters.  I  have 
written  constantly  so  you  must  get  letters  very  frequently. 

Hoping  you  are  all  well, 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Damascus  Palace  Hotel,  Damascus. 
March  13th,  1903 
Dear  Frank, 

Here  we  are  in  a  Damascus  Hotel,  separated  from  some  of 
our  party,  as  they  were  sent  to  Cooks'  Hotel  and  we  came 
here.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fowler  and  I  are  in  a  corridor  with  oil 
lamps  for  light;  we  have  had  our  Turkish  coffee  and  will  go 
to  bed  early  as  we  are  tired  after  a  hard  day's  trip.  I  wonder 
if  I  wrote  you  that  on  Sunday  last  we  three  went  to  Scutari 
to  service  at  the  Woman's  College,  which  is  the  counterpart 
of  the  Roberts  College  in  Constantinople.  Miss  Patrick  was 
delighted  to  see  us  and  gave  us  tea  and  home  sponge  cake  and 
after  having  us  shown  all  over  the  College  took  us  to  church, 
where  she  gave  a  very  good  discourse  to  the  pupils  in  English 
and  wore  her  cap  and  gown.  They  wanted  us  to  stay  to  dinner, 
but  we  could  not  spare  the  time. 

It  was  very  rough  yesterday,  Thursday  morning,  as 
we  anchored  at  Beyrout  and  the  getting  into  the  small 
boats  was  most  amusing  and  exciting.  One  man  got 
one   leg  into  the  water  as   he  was   awkward   about    getting 

472 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

in.  You  would  be  surprised  to  see  how  skillfully  I  get 
in  and  out  and  I  really  enjoy  it.  This  time  as  the  little 
boat  came  up  on  a  wave  a  big  Arab  seized  me  around  the  waist 
and  plumped  me  into  the  boat  before  I  could  utter  a  word  of 
protest.  It  was  so  rough  that  some  people  were  actively  sea- 
sick before  getting  to  the  shore.  A  Cooks'  party  is  always 
rushing  to  get  ahead  and  so  we  made  a  dash  for  the  train  and 
made  ourselves  comfortable.     Cook  divided  us  into  two  sec- 


THE  TRAIN  TO  DAMASCUS 


tions,  Section  i  was  to  go  to  Baalbec  and  Section  2  direct  to 
Damascus.  The  train  was  of  ist  class  carriages  and  most  com- 
fortable and  part  of  the  way  is  rack  and  pinion  and  very  well 
built.  We  began  to  climb  the  Lebanon  Mountains  at  once  and 
never  in  my  life  have  I  seen  such  a  view  as  unfolded  before 
us  The  earth  was  crimson  and  all  shades  of  purplish  pink, 
and  the  blue  Mediterranean  back  of  it  and  the  grey  and  yellow 
rock  of  the  mountains  made  a  color  effect  in  landscape  I  shall 
never  forget.     I  have  seen  colored  views  of  Syria,  which  I 

473 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

supposed  were  quite  unnatural,  but  now  I  know  they  are  true 
to,  life. 

Also  we  saw  our  first  camel  trains,  and  the  Arab  head 
dress  The  men  wear  a  wrapper-like  gown  and  belt  and  a 
large  handkerchief  held  on  the  head  by  two  big  black  cords, 
taking  the  place  of  a  fez — a  most  picturesque  head  dress  and 
just  like  the  Bible  pictures. 


1 


BEYROUT,  THE  PORT  OF  DAMASCUS 

Here  we  see  the  people  seated  along  the  rivers  and  others 
about  sitting  on  the  house-tops  and  looking  afar  off.  The 
villages  are  all  built  one  story  high,  with  stone  or  adobe 
blocks  and  have  flat  roofs,  some  with  grass  and  as  the  train 
goes  by  we  see  a  man  standing  on  his  roof  looking  off,  always 
in  blue  and  red  gowns  or  wide  Bagdad  stripes. 

We  climbed  to  the  highest  part  of  the  Lebanon  Mts. 
and  up  into  the  snow  region,  where  we  found  it  bitter 
cold  and  descending  came  in  view  of  the  most  fertile  plain 

474 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

in  Syria  with  the  Anti-Lebanon  Mts.  on  the  further  s'de 
and  Mt.  Hermon  covered  with  snow,  a  magnificent  spec- 
tacle We  lunched  at  Rayak,  not  too  well,  and  then  took 
a  branch  road  across  the  plain  and  up  the  hills  again,  arriv- 
ing at  Baalbec  at  4.30  p.  m.  We  went  out  at  once,  after 
getting  our  rooms,  as  it  was  very  clear  and  sunny,  and  went 
all  over  the  ruins  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  and  of  the  Sun, 
and  were  overwhelmed  with  the  colossal  grandeur  of  it  all, 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN,  BAALBEC 

beside  which  the  ruins  even  of  Athens  seem  tame.  There  were 
the  largest  Cyclopean  or  early  Greek  stones  we  have  seen 
yet  and  in  the  quarry  nearby  was  a  block  cut  partly  out  68 
feet  long  by  13  feet  thick,  and  square.  Imagine  all  that,  with 
a  background  of  snow  mountains  and  a  clear  luminous  atmos- 
phere at  sunset  when  there  was  a  yellow  light  on  the  great 
columns.  It  was  quite  easy  to  imagine  how  the  great  temple 
of  Jupiter  looked  by  considering  the  work  of  the  Arabs  who 
filled  up  the  great  portals  of  the  front  portico  with  stone  to 
serve  as  a  fortification,  as  now  existent  and  putting  up  the 

475 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

columns  In  their  places  which  are  now  strewn  around  in  every 
direction  and  the  statues  in  their  niches  and  the  exquisite 
carvings  on  the  pediments  and  the  lintels  and  around  the 
great  doors  and  then  thinking  if  you  stood  at  the  front  por- 
tico and  looked  through  the  three  great  courts  with  water  in 
a  basin  n  each  with  marble  enclosure  carved  exquisitely  and 
surrounded  by  the  great  roofed  porticos  where  the  most 
florid  carving  decorated  the  capitals  of  the  columns  and  the 
roofs  and  lintels  and  all  on  a  gigantic  plan,  the  human  mind 
almost  fails  to  comprehend  it. 

The  moonlight  was  glorious  that  night  and  Mr.  Fow- 
ler and  Clifford  went  out  to  view  the  temples  again  and 
drifted  into  an  Arab  cafe  where  they  got  most  delicious 
coffee.  Clifford  was  really  enthusiastic  about  Baalbec  and 
was  up  and  out  early  this  morning  to  see  it  again  It 
was  too  bitter  cold  for  us  women  to  go  out  last  night 
and  too  difficult  walking  also.  The  Hotel  is  Cooks'  and  all 
of  stone  and  built  so  differently  from  any  we  have.  It  was  so 
high  we  went  up  two  flgihts  to  get  to  the  second  floor  and 
where  most  of  the  space  was  occupied  by  an  open  room  with 
the  bedrooms  opening  into  it  and  down  stairs  the  tables 
were  spread  in  the  same  open  space.  It  was  my  birthday  and 
Mr.  Fowler  insisted  upon  having  champagne  and  we  had  one 
candle  in  an  empty  champagne  bottle  for  decoration  and  had 
lots  of  fun  and  then  sat  in  Mrs.  F's  room  and  selected  photos 
from  a  sample  book 

Some  of  the  rooms  had  little  stoves,  but  mine  had 
none  and  you  can't  imagine  the  cold,  with  stone  floors. 
Fortunately  I  had  my  hot  water  bag  and  so  was  able  to 
have  my  bed  warm.  I  was  going  to  have  a  brazier  in  the 
room,  when  Clifford  protested  and  said  it  was  dangerous. 
It  proved  a  lucky  thing  I  did  not  as  22  people  were 
asphyxiated  in  the  night,  so  much  so  they  fell  uncon- 
scious on  the  floor,  men  as  well  as  women.  However  they 
recovered    quickly.      One    woman    shrieked    fearfully.      Mr. 

Fowler  heard  the  screams  and  half  awake  thought  they  were 

476 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

murdering  the  Christians  again  as  in  i860.  The  silence 
in  such  a  place  is  most  impressive  and  I  enjoyed  it.  This 
morning  we  had  a  long  wait  at  the  station  as  our  train  was 
delayed  because  the  Governor  of  the  Province  was  on  it,  and 
the  whole  town  turned  out.  Veiled  Moslem  women  and  men 
in  the  most  picturesque  costumes  and  women  carrying  chil- 
dren astride  the  shoulder  and  all  reminding  one  of  the  Bible 
pictures.  Our  ride  from  the  lunch  place  Rayak,  where  Noah  is 
reputed  to  be  buried,  was  through  wonderful  mountain  gorges 
and  as  we  got  near  here  we  saw  great  orchards  of  fruit  trees 
and  rushing  brooks  and  gardens.  Of  course  the  trees  are  only 
just  budding  out  and  it  is  a  pity  it  is  not  three  weeks  later. 
The  life  in  the  streets  here  is  most  interesting  and  quite  differ- 
ent from  anything  we  have  seen.  Crowds  watched  us  buy 
our  photographs  and  followed  us  along  the  street  and  the 
women  stood  still  to  look  at  us.  I  must  cut  this  short  as  I 
must  get  up  at  seven  in  order  to  be  ready  for  Cook  at  nine, 
so  with  much  love,  and  hoping  to  hear  from  you  soon, 

Your  aff., 

M.  D.  R. 

Damascus  Palace  Hotel,  Damascus. 

15th  March,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

Our  second  day  and  I  take  a  few  minutes  after  lunch  and 
before  going  out  to  write  you.  We  spent  yesterday  under 
Cooks'  tuition  going  about  in  carriages  seeing  the  sights,  the 
grand  Mosque,  the  tomb  of  Saladin  and  the  window  where 
St.  Paul  was  let  down  from  the  house  on  the  wall  and  the 
home  of  Ananias  and  Judas  and  Naaman.  There  are  few 
things  to  see,  apart  from  the  life  in  the  streets,  and  in 
the  Bazaars,  which  are  merely  covered  streets.  Yesterday 
was  the  last  feast  day  and  the  streets  were  crowded  with  peo- 
ple and  carriages  and  camels  and  donkeys,  and  it  is  a  constant 
panorama— Persians,  Syrians,  Turks,  Arabs,  &c.,  in  their  dif- 
ferent costumes. 

477 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  Bavada  river  rushes  through  and  they  make  a  great 
fuss  over  it,  but  it  is  not  much  as  a  river.  The  beauty  of 
Damascus  Hes  in  its  position  in  a  fertile  plain  with  the  most 
beautiful  mountains  as  a  frame.  We  went  up  on  the  terrace 
(house  top)  last  eve  and  the  panorama  was  glorious.  The 
exquisite  purplish  tints  of  the  Mountains  and  the  warm 
ecru  of  the  houses  and  walls,  with  cypress  trees  and  minarets 


A  GATE  IN  DAMASCUS 

relieving  the  monotony  of  color,  apricot  and  other  fruit  trees 
in  full  bloom  and  the  evergreen,  orange  and  lemon  trees  and 
down  under  a  canopy  the  faithful  saying  their  prayers,  and 
camels  going  by,  and  donkeys,  and  now  and  then  a  dervish 
with  high  stove  pipe  hat  without  a  brim. 

Yesterday  we  were  taken  to  see  a  Jewish  house  and  then 
a  Christian  one.  Both  were  entered  by  very  small  doors  in  a 
common  wall  from  a  street  not  over  15  feet  wide,  first  came  a 

478 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

large  court  yard  paved  with  marble  inlaid  pavement  with 
orange  and  lemon  trees;  from  that  we  entered  a  very  fine  hall 
with  fountain  at  one  end,  magnificently  carved  marble,  and 
the  other  half  raised  about  2  feet  above  and  intended  to  be 
covered  with  rugs  and  used  as  a  summer  room.  The  walls 
were  all  marble,  carved  in  some  places  into  trees  and  leaves 
fully  1 8  inches  deep.  I  don't  suppose  there  is  anything  in 
New  York  to  compare  with  it  in  costliness.  On  going  out 
in  the  street  we  met  a  Jewish  procession  carrying  an  infant. 
Two  young  girls  were  dressed  like  bridesmaids  and  a  very 
gorgeous  cloth  was  thrown  over  the  infant  who  was  carried 
on  a  cushion. 

The  Christian  house  was  roomy  but  had  none  of  the  elegance 
of  the  other.  To-day  we  went  first  to  the  English  church  where 
there  were  a  few  of  our  ship's  party  and  then  we  went  through 
the  Bazaars.  There  is  a  man  named  Asfar  and  we  call  him 
"so  far  and  no  farther,"  where  we  found  some  attractive 
things.  The  crowds  follow  us  and  look  at  us  in  astonishment 
and  we  have  a  hard  time  to  avoid  camels  and  donkeys  and 
carriages.  We  were  so  tired  when  we  got  through  bargaining 
that  we  went  to  a  cafe  beside  a  rushing  stream  and  had  coffee, 
while  Clifford,  with  a  fez  on,  smoked  the  long  water  pipe  of  the 
country  and  watched  the  long  processions  of  people  returning 
evidently  from  the  country.  We  have  had  a  very  amusing 
day  and  will  never  forget  it.  How  I  wish  you  could  have 
seen  it  all.  There  are  more  men  in  our  Ship's  company  who 
are  older  than  you,  than  there  are  younger.  We  get  no  rest 
from  now  to  Cairo  and  rather  dread  the  discomforts  of  Jeru- 
salem— we  have  only  two  short  nights  on  board  ship,  one  to 
Jaffa  and  another  to  Cairo.  It  is  a  strange  sight  to  see  the 
women  in  their  black  costumes  and  veils,  squatting  along  the 
edge  of  the  rivers.  I  must  go  to  bed  as  we  must  rise  at  six. 
We  are  going  to  the  housetop  to  see  the  city  by  moonlight 
en  route  to  bed.  Goodbye  and  with  love  to  all  and  remem- 
brances to  the  girls  in  the  house. 

Aff'ly,  M.  D.  R. 

479 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Damascus  Palace  Hotel,  Damascus. 

15th  March,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

We  have  been  with  the  Fowlers  all  the  time  and  they  are 
very  nice  indeed.  Mr.  F.  reminds  me  very  forcibly  of  Mr. 
Godfrey.  He  and  I,  at  Baalbec,  went  out  at  night  and  visited 
an  Arab  coffee  house  and  had  coffee  with  about  40  villainous 
looking  Arabs.  To-day  we  each  puffed  a  nargileh  at  a  coffee 
house  here.  At  Baalbec  the  ruins  were  splendid  and  far  out- 
classed those  at  Athens.  We  all  wish  we  had  three  or  four 
days  to  rest  in  aboard  ship  but,  alas,  we  only  reach  it  to-morrow 
night  at  Beyrout  to  leave  it  the  next  morning  at  Jaffa  for 
Jerusalem.  Then  again  we  have  no  time  for  rest  between 
Jerusalem  and  Cairo.  We  are  all  pretty  well  sunburned,  as 
the  country  here  is  high  and  dry  like  Colorado  with  strong 
sunlight  and  a  reflected  glare  from  the  yellow  sand.  The 
mountains  are  bare  of  trees  and  resemble  strongly  certain 
parts  of  the  foothills  of  the  Rockies.  We  hope  to  find  lots  of 
mail  at  Cairo  when  we  get  there. 

With  love,  J.  C.  R. 

Grand  New  Hotel,  Jerusalem. 

March  21st,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

Each  day  I  expected  to  write  you  at  least  a  few  words,  but 
I  have  worked  so  hard  that  I  hardly  had  sense  enough  to  get 
to  bed.  This  is  our  last  day  here  as  to-morrow  we  take  the 
train  at  seven  o'clock  for  Joppa,  We  have  just  had  tea  in  the 
drawing  room,  when  the  German  General  I  wrote  you  about 
as  being  on  the  Auguste  Victoria  with  a  number  of  officers  of 
the  Garde  du  Corps,  Berlin,  came  in.  I  had  not  been  intro- 
duced before  and  I  was  glad  to  meet  him — of  course  asked 
him  first  if  he  knew  Gen.  von  Camerer,  and  of  course  he  did, 
and  then  I  asked  about  the  Adelmanns  and  he  said,  "You 
know  Heinrich.^" — and  he  was  so  surprised  and  he  knows  all 

our  friends  and  the  von  Wellwarths,  that  Clifford  and  I  visited 

480 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

near  Hohenstadt,  are  his  relations.  I  hope  now  we  may  meet 
Count  Linar  and  Baron  Wangenheim,  who  are  his  friends. 
He  knows  Baron  von  Briisselie  at  Schaubeck,  also. 

This  is  the  second  week  of  hard  work.  As  we  left  the 
ship  Tuesday  morning  we  formed  a  party  of  eight  so 
we    could    have    a    guide    to   ourselves,    and    we   just    filled 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  JERUSALEM 

two    carriages.    Mr.    and    Mrs.    Fowler,     Mrs.    Ervin     and 

Miss    Smith,    Mrs.     Stryker    and    Miss     Stevenson,     beside 

Clifford    and     myself.      The    water     was    very    smooth     at 

Joppa,    a    very   unusual   thing,    and   we    made    the    landing 

without   the    least  trouble.      We   had   such   fun   at   Beyrout 

where    it    was    quite    rough,    when    Mr.    Fowler,    who    is    a 

very  big  man,  and  myself  were  lifted  bodily  by  the  boatmen 
31  481 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  put  into  the  boat.  Joppa  was  as  filthy  as  every  other 
city  under  Turkish  dominion,  but  interesting  and  we  were 
surprised  with  a  good  American  "toot"  from  the  Baldwin 
locomotive.  We  crossed  the  Plain  of  Sharon  and  were  inter- 
ested in  the  mud  villages,  where  each  house  had  an  enclosing 
wall  of  the  same  material  and  the  roofs  were  of  turf  so  the 
effect  was  as  if  the  town  had  grown  and  not  been  made.  While 
these  must  be  very  uncomfortable  they  are  most  picturesque; 
soon  after  we  began  to  climb  the  hills  of  Judea  and  four  hours 
brought  us  to  Jerusalem.     Our  first  sight  was  the  Tower  of 


VIEW  OF  JOPPA 

David,  from  which  he  saw  Bethsheba,  the  wife  of  his  General, 
and  is  now  a  fortress  occupied  by  Turkish  soldiers  and  has  a 
moat  all  around. 

We  came  up  to  the  Joppa  Gate  and  into  this  Hotel 
just  inside  the  Gate  This  fortress  was  David's  palace 
and  on  the  top  of  Mt.  Zion.  The  city  seems  to  consist 
of  hills  and  valleys  and  the  Temple  was  on  Mt.  Moriah. 
After  lunch  we  started  right  off  to  the  "Holy  Sepulchre." 
This  consists  of  a  group  of  churches,  the  Greek  Catholic, 
Roman,  Armenian,  Coptic  and  Abyssinian,  around  the  spot 

where  tradition  says  Christ  was  buried.     At  first  one  is  so 

482 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

overwhelmed  with  the  feeling  of  seeing  the  actual  spot  of 
Christ's  sufferings  and  burial  that  one  longs  to  join  the  throngs 
of  pilgrims  from  every  nation  who  are  prostrating  themselves 
before  the  "Stone  of  Unction"  and  kissing  it.  To-day  we 
went  to  see  the  Greek  Patriarch  come  in  a  triumphal  proces- 
sion to  the  Greek  church  and  it  was  a  magnificent  sight.     We 


THE  GATE,  JOPPA 

went  in  a  high  gallery  w^here  there  were  lots  of  women  of  all 
nationalities.  The  floor  of  the  church  was  thronged  and  the 
priests  and  the  patriarch  were  magnificent  with  solitaire 
jewels,  the  latter  blessed  the  people  like  the  Pope. 

The  second  morning  we  drove  out  to  Bethlehem,  where 
things  are  more  unchanged  than  in  Jerusalem.  In  the  church  of 
the  Nativity  they  show  a  manger  as  the  one  where  Christ  was 

483 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

born.  The  city  walls  dating  from  the  eighth  century  are  so 
picturesque.  The  country  is  very  picturesque  and  lovely  with 
wild  flowers,  some  of  which  I  have  bought  seeds  of  and  hope 
to  raise  them  at  Jamestown,  and  the  walled  roads  climb  up 
and  down  and  wind  around  the  hills.  We  love  this  place  and 
feel  sorry  to  go,  as  we  would  like  to  drive  about  the  outlying 


A  STREET  IN  JERUSALEM 


country  at  our  leisure.    That  afternoon  we  went  to  see  the 

Mosqueof  Omar,on  the  site  of  Solomon's  Temple  through  which 

the  top  of  Mt.  Moriah  pierces.     This  rock,  which  is  protected 

by  a  railing,  is  where  Abraham  is  supposed  to  have  offered  Isaac 

in  sacrifice  and  is  very  sacred  to  Jews  and  Christians.     On  the 

ruins  of   the   temple  was   a   Roman   temple.     One  wishes  it 

484 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

could  all  be  excavated  in  the  hope  of  seeing  how  it  all  used 
to  be.  I  cannot  possibly  describe  all  the  things  we  have  seen 
and  wish  you  would  borrow  a  Syria  and  Palestine  Murray 
and  read  about  it.  We  drove  afterwards  to  the  Mt.  of  Olives, 
but  it  began  to  rain  and  we  had  no  view. 

The  next  day  we  started  in  three  carriages  for  a  two-days^ 
excursion  to  Jericho,  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan;  we  were 
accompanied  by  a  wucked-looking  Bedouin  on  horseback  with  a 
gun  slung  over  his  shoulder  and  a  sword  by  his  side  and  looking 
exactly  like  one  of  Schreyer's  pictures,  and  he  turned  out  to  be 
an  ex-brigand  now  employed  in  recent  years  as  guard  by  the 
Government.  He  escorted  us  all  the  way  to  the  Dead  Sea  and 
back  and  Cook  had  to  pay  him  two  francs  for  each  person. 
Our  drivers  were  also  armed  but  our  worst  dangers  I  should 
say  were  from  the  road  itself.  Before  the  German  Emperor 
came  here  it  was  only  possible  to  make  the  trip  on  horseback 
and  it  is  as  bad  as  possible.  We  found  quite  a  decent  Hotel 
at  Jericho  passing  on  the  way  a  monastery  on  the  spot  where 
Elijah  was  fed  by  the  ravens  and  the  hill  where  Christ  fasted 
for  forty  days  and  was  tempted  of  the  Devil,  and  Mt.  Nebo 
in  the  distance,  where  Moses  first  saw  the  Promised  Land, 
and  the  wilderness  full  of  pelicans.  Old  Jericho  was  called 
the  City  of  Palms  and  now  there  is  not  one  to  be  seen.  A 
dreadfully  dangerous  ride  brought  us  to  the  Dead  Sea,  and 
Clifford  took  a  swim  but  it  stung  his  eyes  badly.  Sodom  and 
Gomorrah  are  supposed  to  have  been  on  the  site  of  the  Dead 
Sea  and  nothing  grows  and  not  a  bird  or  a  fish.  I  was  ter- 
ribly frightened  at  the  bad  roads  and  the  fording  of  streams. 
It  was  a  very  sharp  transition  of  climate  from  the  cold  of 
Jerusalem  to  the  heat  of  Jericho.  We  went  down  3500  feet 
and  it  was  so  warm  that  we  sat  out  without  wraps  all  even- 
ing. I  forgot  to  say  we  came  back  from  the  Dead  Sea  to  the 
Jordan,  which  is  only  a  creek,  and  were  shown  the  spot  where 
Christ  was  baptized  and  we  filled  our  cans  with  Jordan  water. 
That  night  we  slept  warm  for  the  first  time  on  land  since  Nice 
and  started  back  early  the  next  morning  and  visited  Bethany 

485 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

and  saw  the  house  of  Mary  and  Martha.  We  also  had  a  cold 
lunch  at  the  Apostles  Fountain,  in  the  tent  which  Cook 
arranged  for  the  German  Emperor.  I  must  stop  now  to  pack 
and  get  ready  to  arise  at  five  o'clock  to-morrow.  I  feel  I  am 
just  beginning  to  comprehend  Jerusalem  and  now  must  go 
away.  With  much  love  to  all  and  hoping  you  do  not  find  my 
letters  a  bore.  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

We  all  feel  we  must  take  the  first  day  in  Cairo  to  rest,  as 
we  only  spend  the  night  on  the  ship  and  get  off  Monday  morn- 
ing at  Alexandria. 

Grand  New  Hotel,  Jerusalem. 

March  21st,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

The  things  that  strike  me  most  here  are  the  filth  and  the 
tawdriness  of  the  decorations  in  the  churches.  The  country 
is  very  much  like  the  west.  In  the  valley  of  the  Dead  Sea 
near  Jericho  this  is  particularly  so.  There  are  sand  buttes 
and  arroyos  backed  by  treeless  mountains.  The  churches 
have  taken  every  chance  to  impress  the  poor  and  point  out 
the  very  spots  where  Christ  stood,  etc.,  even  which  hill  he 
was  crucified  on  is  in  doubt.  Mother  met  a  General  von  Roeder 
to-night  who  is  on  our  ship,  who  knows  the  Adelmanns  well 
and  I  expect  to  meet  him  to-morrow.  We  have  only  six  days 
in  Cairo  and  Mother  is  dead  tired  yet  she  talks  of  spending 
her  nights  on  sleeping  cars  to  see  the  Temple  of  Karnac.  I 
hope  she  will  change  her  mind.  We  expect  lots  of  mail  at 
Cairo.     With  love  to  Aunt  Fanny  and  Uncle  Joe. 

Your  aff.  son,  J.  C.  R. 

Shepheard's  Hotel,  Cairo. 

March    24th,    1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

This  is  just  to  let  you  know  that  we  arrived  safely  yes- 
terday noon  and  have  rooms  looking  over  a  beautiful  garden 
with  palms  and  are  getting  rested  from  our  severe  Jerusalem 
trip.  The  Fowlers  and  ourselves  did  not  take  Cook  as  we 
were  too  tired.     With  love  to  you  all. 

Your  aflF.,  M.  D.  R. 

486 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

P.S.  This  hotel  is  the  funniest  combination  of  Paris  and 
Saratoga.  There  is  a  terrace  between  the  door  and  street 
where  you  sit  and  see  all  Cairo  go  by.  We  arrived  at  noon 
and  have  done  nothing  but  attend  to  different  wants  and 
getting  rested.  We  go  this  morning  to  the  Pyramids.  It  is 
fearfully  expensive  as  we  have  a  dragoman  and  have  to  pay 
all  his  expenses  as  well.  I  had  two  letters  from  Countess 
Adelmann — says  she  will  not  take  a  refusal  to  visit  there.  I 
don't  see  how  it  is  possible.  I  met  Gen.  von  Roeder  and  he 
knows   Graf  Adelmann   well. 


Shepheard's  Hotel,  Cairo. 

March  26th,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

Almost  our  whole  ship's  party  has  been  obliged  to  rest 

here  or  at  least  take  it  easy,  as  our  two-weeks'  steady  travel- 


MA. 


THE  GARDEN'S  OF  SHEPHEARDS  HOTEL.  CAIRO 

ling  in  Syria  had  completely  used  us  up.     We  are  so  happy 
and  comfortable  here  and  would  like  to  stay  and  not  move  on- 

487 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

This  Hotel  is  nearly  perfect,  and  we  have  two  single  rooms 
looking  out  on  a  beautiful  garden  with  flowers  and  palm  trees, 
so  that  we  have  perfect  quiet  and  yet  at  the  front  of  the  Hotel 
is  the  busiest  street  in  Cairo  and  we  sit  out  on  the  Terrace 
and  have  5  o'clock  tea  and  see  every  one  and  the  merchants 
crying  their  wares  and  the  syces  running  in  front  of  the  car- 
riages and  every  kind  of  equipage,  so  it  is  most  amusing.  The 
first  day  we  drove  out  to  the  Pyramids  and  rode  on  donkeys 
around  them  and  the  Sphinx,  but  I  was  so  timid  I  have  had 


CAIRO 


to  give  up  an  excursion  to-day  where  I  would  have  had  to 
ride  a  donkey  five  hours,  and  I  am  resting  to-day.  Yesterday 
Clifford  and  I  went  alone  to  the  citadel  and  some  mosques 
and  the  Tombs  of  the  Mamelukes.  As  elsewhere  in  the  Arab 
quarter  filth  and  misery  reign  supreme.  The  people  are  too 
lazy  to  wash  their  faces  and  the  flies  around  the  eyes  of  the 
young  children  are  a  disgusting  sight. 

Elias  came  yesterday  with  his  own  carriage  and  took  us 
to  the  great  Museum  and  to  the  Bazaars,  and  I  met 
Brugsch  Bey  at  the  Museum.  The  Fowlers  had  a  letter  to 
Chaka  Bey,  who  has   charge  of   the  Railways   and   between 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

the  two  we  are  invited  to  go  to  a  swell  wedding  this  eve- 
ning. We  are  to  stop  at  the  Elias  house  en  route.  Out  at 
the  Pyramids  I  meant  to  mention  the  Mena  Hotel,  a 
most  beautiful  hotel,  with  every  comfort,  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  Desert.  Many  people  spend  the  winter  there 
for  lung  and  bronchial   troubles.      Some  of  our  party   start 


THE  TRIP  TO  THE  PYRAMIDS 

to-night  on  a  trip  up  the  Nile  on  dahabeahs,  go  with  the 
Cook  party  to  Luxor.  We  leave  here  to-morrow  and  take  the 
night  train  to  Luxor,  spending  two  days  only  there  and 
coming  back  Sunday  night  straight  to  Alexandria  and 
go  on  the  ship  by  noon.  There  are  many  tempting  things 
to  buy  but  I  am  afraid  my  money  will  not  hold  out,  so  I  have 
to  turn  away.    The  Fowlers  buy  very  lavishly.    We  are  quite 

489 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

excited  about  going  to  the  wedding.  Last  night  the  gardens 
of  this  hotel  were  illuminated  and  throngs  of  people  threw 
paper  confetti  and  after  there  was  a  ball.     It  seemed  a  pity 


THE  SPHINX 
M .  D.  R.  tying  her  shoes 


to  spoil  the  clean  grass  and  gravel  and  this  morning  they  took 

up  wagon  loads  of  it.     Elias  wanted  to  know  all  about  you. 

He  has  grown   so  stout   I  would  not  have   known  him — he 

seems  to  have  the  same  old  friendly  feeling.    I  fear  he  expected 

me  to  buy  valuable  things  at  the  Bazaars,  but  I  didn't  do  it 

all  the  same. 

490 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

Mrs.  Fowler  thinks  the  front  street  here  a  combination  of 
Paris  and  Saratoga  and  I  think  not  unlike.  The  food  is  deli- 
cious and  it  would  be  a  delightful  place  to  stay.  Mr.  Fowler 
is  planning  to  come  directly  here  another  year  and  spend  a 
month  on  a  dahabeah  on  the  Nile.  I  cannot  imagine  anything 
more  restful  and  they  say  one  has  every  comfort  and  even 
luxury.  I  had  to  let  the  last  of  our  Syrian  trip  go  without  a 
description,  but  I  look  back  on  it  all  with  delight.  Jerusalem 
in  the  olden  times  must  have  been  a  dream  of  beauty,  but 
now  the  unspeakable  Turk  has  made  it  look  like  every  place 
where  he  rules,  a  wreck  of  the  past.  The  Turks  never  repair 
anything.  We  enjoy  the  uniforms  of  the  English  officers, 
many  of  them  staying  here.  Mr.  Fowler  sang  all  the  way 
from  the  Jordan — "Jordan  am  a  hard  road  to  trabble."  He 
is  very  funny.    With  much  love  to  you. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Shepheard's  Hotel,  Cairo, 

March  27th,  1903. 
Dear  Father, 

We  both  like  Cairo  ever  so  much  and  I  for  one  am  sorry 
to  leave  it  for  Luxor,  where  we  go  to-night.  Edward  Elias 
has  been  most  kind  and  has  given  me  a  beautiful  scarab.  Last 
night  we  visited  his  wife  and  went  on  with  him  afterwards  to 
a  Mohammedan  wedding  of  very  rich  people.  Mother  and 
Mrs.  Fowler  saw  a  lot  but  Mr.  F.  and  I  cooled  our  heels  in 
a  tent  and  waited.  Lost  my  Panama  hat  out  of  the  window 
of  an  express  train  and  can't  forgive  myself.  To-day  is  hot 
and  therefore  pleasant  as  we  really  have  been  cold  here.  The 
hotel  is  fine  and  very  expensive.  With  love  and  hoping  to 
see  you  soon.  J.   C.   R. 

The  Luxor  Hotel,  Luxor. 

March    28th,    1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  took  the  train  last  night  and  had  a  dusty  ride  here, 

where  there  is    summer   heat    and    flies    intolerable.     Fortu- 

491 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

nately  I  wore  a  thin  summer  dress  from  Cairo  and  we  got  fly 
switches,  and  then  started  for  the  Temple  of  Karnak,  where 
the  French  government  is  now  excavating.  There  were 
troops  of  natives  heaving  and  hauHng  and  an  overseer  with 
an  ugly  whip,  so  I  imagine  things  are  going  on  very  much  as 
they  did  when  the  Jews  had  to  work  for  Pharaoh.  Even  with 
so  many  magnificent  papyrus  and  lotus  columns  in  place  and 
the  hieroglyphics  as  distinct  as  when  they  were  made  it  is 


KARNAK 


necessary  to  use  one's  imagination.  The  sacred  lake  is  now  a 
dirty  pond,  but  one  can  see  the  remains  of  walls  and  columns 
and  broken  statues,  which  in  ancient  times  were  all  about  the 
lake  and  the  avenues  of  sphinxes,  500  on  each  side,  from  the 
temple  to  the  Nile  and  another  at  right  angles  with  another 
sort  of  sphinxes  with  ram's  heads.  Where  they  intersect 
were  four  obelisks,  one  has  fallen  and  they  are  trying  to  raise 
it.  All  this  was  buried  deep  in  rubbish  and  one  wonders  how 
such  enormous  columns  and  walls  were  ever  overthrown. 

All  the  Cooks'  people  were  away  at  the  tombs  of  the  Kings 

492 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 


493 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

at  Thebes,  so  I  took  a  good  nap  after  lunch  and  then  we  went 
to  the  Temple  of  Luxor,  very  near  the  Hotel,  and  also  near 
the  Nile,  This  has  also  been  excavated  and  a  Mosque  still 
remains,  built  over  one  side.  The  English  consul  had  a  house 
on  top  of  one  of  the  pylons,  now  they  are  going  to  clear  away 
the  native  huts  and  move  the  mosque  so  the  rubbish  will  not 


THE  RIDE  TO  THE  TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS,  FROM  LUXOR 

collect  again.  Here  were  two  great  halls,  one  of  papyrus 
columns,  big  flutings,  and  the  other  of  the  lotus  columns  with 
flaring  capitals  and  magnificent  statues,  colossal  size,  stand- 
ing between  the  columns  and  some  colossal  seated  figures  in 
front  of  the  gate  on  each  side.  After  buying  myself  photos  I 
sat  down  to  watch  the  sunset  with  some  of  the  ship's  party. 
This  was  at  last  the  Egypt  of  my  dreams.     All  the  dirt  and 

494 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  THE  HOLY  LAND  AND  EGYPT 

flies  disappeared  and  the  sun  left  a  red  glow  which  made  the 
hills  beyond  the  Nile  (the  Lyblan  Hills)  stand  out  sharply 
and  then  all  was  reflected  in  the  water.  The  boats  moored 
thickly  at  the  banks  with  their  curved  masts  made  a  wonder- 
ful picture  and  the  women  going  down  with  their  empty  water 
vases  poised  on  their  heads  and  returning  with  them  erect 
and  full,  all  these  moving  between  us  and  this  red  glow,  made 
it  worth  while  to  take  the  journey.  The  flies,  heat  and  dust 
are  the  other  side  of  the  picture.  The  misery  of  the  people 
cannot  be  described — they  get  almost  nothing  to  eat.  To- 
morrow we  cross  the  river  to  Thebes  and  the  Tombs  of  the 
Kings  and  the  sitting  Colossi.  I  am  going  in  a  chair  as  I  am 
too  afraid  of  donkeys.    Goodbye,  with  love. 

Aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

We  take  the  train  to-morrow  night  direct  to  Alexandria. 


ITALY 


Am  Bord,   Auguste  Victoria, 
March  29th,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

Mr.  Fowler  to-day  said  I  had  better  come  home  with  him 
on  this  same  ship  May  8th.  When  we  got  to  Alexandria  all 
those  of  the  ship's  party  who  did  not  go  to  Luxor  were  there. 
This  evening  at  dinner  every  lady  was  presented  with  a  small 
bonbon  box  in  solid  silver  as  a  souvenir  of  this  cruise,  and 
the  men  had  leather  memorandum  books.  They  certainly 
try  to  please.  We  are  fortunate  still  in  weather,  as  there  is 
almost  no  motion.  Now  we  have  three  nights  and  two  days, 
this  being  Monday  evening,  and  we  land  at  Palermo  Thurs- 
day morning  and  spend  Friday  at  Messina  and  Taormina, 
then  on  to  Naples,  where  I  will  have  to  pack  the  things  for 
Clifford  to  take  home.  Enough  for  to-night.  I  will  leave  it 
open  until  we  get  to  Palermo. 

Thursday,  April  2nd. 
We  are  just  returned  from  our  trip  through  Messina  to 
Taormina  and  are  in  raptures.  Can  you  imagine  a  sea  and 
coast  like  the  Riviera,  but  magnified  and  isolated  and  a  town 
perched  up  on  a  peak  and  a  village  of  all  stone  and  stucco 
and  a  wonderful  old  monastery  with  a  terraced  garden  hang- 
ing hundreds  of  feet  over  the  sea,  with  Mt.  Aetna   rising 

behind  it.''     The  Monastery  is  the  Hotel  de   St.   Domenica 

496 


ITALY 

where  we  had  lunch  and  I  didn't  imagine  that  there  was  any- 
thing on  this  earth  so  beautiful.  There  was  not  a  blot  or  an 
ugliness  to  mar  it.  The  color  of  the  water  could  only  be  com- 
pared to  gems  and  all  the  buildings  and  walls  were  yellowish 
and  pinkish  white   plaster  overhung  with  wistaria,  red    and 


ISOLA  E  CAPO  S.  LEO,  TAORMINA 

white  geraniums  and  yellow  and  white  daisies,  the  kind  we 
pay  a  dollar  a  dozen  for,  a  perfect  walled  road  took  us  to  the 
top.  We  were  a  Cooks'  party  but  Cliff  and  I  and  the  Fowlers 
kept  together.  The  whole  town  of  Messina  was  out  to  see  us 
go  and  come.  There  were  whole  rows  of  columbaria  and 
Roman  walls  in  this  high  village  and  a  very  fine  Greek  theatre. 
I  shall  bring  the  pictures  but  the  color  you  can  never  imagine. 
32  497 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


IN  THE  CONVENT  HOTEL,  TAOR.MINA,  SICILY 


^    ,  ■■■-  -*    :^^, 


THE  GREEK  THEATRE,  TAORMINA 
498 


ITALY 

We  hope  to  see  Stromboli  about  lo  to-night  in  eruption.  Only 
a  little  smoke  came  from  Mt.  Aetna.  Tomorrow  we  land  at 
Palermo,  spend  the  day  and  then  reach  Naples  Saturday 
morning. 

We  see  something  of  the  German  general  who  knows  the 
Adelmanns.  We  are  going  to  stay  on  the  ship  until  it  leaves 
Naples.  I  suppose  you  will  feel  badly  that  I  don't  come  back 
with  Clifford,  but  I  feel  that  I  am  here  and  cannot  be  sure  of 
getting  here  again  and  it  will  be  only  three  weeks  from  the 
time  Clifford  arrives  that  I  shall  also  arrive.  I  am  so  tired  I 
.must  not  write  any  more,  so  good  bye, 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Auguste  Victoria  (Naples). 

April  6th,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  expect  to  go  to  Sorrento  by  the  way  of  Pompeii  this 
afternoon  and  have  my  luggage  all  ready  to  leave  the  ship. 
We  went  to  the  Opera  last  night  to  hear  La  Tosca  and  the 
house  is  beautiful  and  the  performance  very  enjoyable.  We 
had  lunch  at  the  fine  new  hotel  Bertolini,  nearby,  with  a  gor- 
geous view.     Clifford  went  up  Vesuvius  with  some  other  people. 

I  shall  be  home  just  three  weeks  after  Clifford  and  I  haven't 
courage  to  face  the  14  days  on  the  ship  and  I  need  a  complete 
rest  on  land  before  undertaking  it.  I  will  write  immediately 
on  my  arrival  at  Rome  where  I  expect  to  spend  two  weeks. 

With  much  love  to  you  and  Sam. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Rome,  Saturday,  April  nth,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  arrived  here  on  Thursday  evening  having  left  Naples  at 
2.57  that  afternoon,  Mrs.  Elliot  waiting  for  me.  There  was  a 
strike  among  the  cab  men  so  we  had  some  trouble  to  get  my 
luggage  to  the  house.  Mrs.  Elliot  has  a  very  nice  apartment 
in  the  new  part  of  Rome,  on  high  ground  near  the  Palace  of 

499 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Queen  Margherita.  Directly  behind  the  house  is  the  best 
preserved  part  of  the  old  Aurelian  wall  and  I  look  at  it  at 
night  in  the  moonlight  before  I  go  to  bed,  it  is  so  picturesque. 
The  Fowlers  went  to  the  Grand  Hotel.  It  was  difficult  to  get 
rooms  in  Rome  just  at  this  season.  We  shall  probably  go  to 
Paris  together  ten  days  from  now.  We  went  down  to  the 
ship  after  all  lunching  together  last  Wednesday  in  Naples  and 
said  goodbye  to  every  one  but  did  not  stay  until  the  ship 
sailed.  Clifford  was  delighted  to  go,  but  I  imagine  he  was 
very  seasick,  as  there  was  a  fearful  storm  that  night.  Our 
Hotel  was  just  back  of  the  Promenade,  with  sea  wall  and  the 
surf  struck  with  such  force  that  it  shook  my  bed.  I  was  really 
frightened  and  thought  they  were  earthquake  shocks. 

I  had  a  good  rest  yesterday  morning  and  unpacked  my 
things.  Then  in  the  afternoon  went  out  with  Mrs.  Elliot  and 
had  tea  at  a  pretty  tea  room  on  the  Corso,  a  sort  of  charity 
run  by  some  Roman  Countesses.  After  that  we  stopped  at 
Santa  Maria  Sopra  Minerva  and  at  the  Pantheon.  At  the 
latter  we  saw  the  tombs  of  Victor  Emmanuel  and  Umberto 
and  many  officers  and  soldiers  were  clustered  about  them  and 
there  were  lots  of  floral  tributes.  From  there  we  arrived  at 
St.  Peter's  at  six  o'clock  to  hear  the  Miserere  sung  by  the  Sis- 
tine  Choir  (the  Pope's  Angels  they  are  called)  without  organ, 
it  being  Good  Friday.  The  music  was  of  the  highest  order 
and  perfectly  sung  by  beautiful  voices.  The  church  was  very 
full  in  the  front  half  and  quantities  of  officers.  To-day  we  are 
going  to  the  Villa  Medici  and  to  call  at  the  Hotel  Royal  and 
perhaps  walk  in  the  Borghese  gardens,  which  are  just  across 
the  street  from  here.  To-morrow  morning  we  get  up  very 
early  and  go  to  St.  Peter's  at  8  o'clock  to  hear  the  Easter  mass. 
We  take  camp  stools  to  rest  on  and  I  don't  know  how  long  we 
shall  be  there.  In  the  afternoon  we  drive  on  the  Pincian  Hill, 
hoping  to  see  the  King  and  Queen  and  Queen  Margherita. 
Lunch  is  ready  so  good  bye  with  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

500 


ITALY 

Rome,  April   I2th,   1903. 
Dear  Clifford, 

I  was  glad  to  get  your  letter  from  Genoa.  We  had  a 
frightful  storm  in  Naples  that  night.  My  bed  shook  and 
quivered  and  it  seems  there  were  earthquake  shocks  in  Sicily 
that  night.  The  Potters  invited  me  to  go  to  the  races  to-mor- 
row and  to  dine  with  them  Wednesday  evening  at  their  hotel. 
With  love  to  your  Father  and  Sam,  and  hoping  you  had  an 
agreeable  voyage  home  and  got  through  the  custom  house  all 
right.  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Rome,  April   17th,   1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

How  the  time  flies  and  where  it  goes  I  cannot  imagine. 
In  a  few  days  Clifford  will  be  at  home.  I  have  been  sight- 
seeing in  Rome,  going  over  some  of  the  old  ground  and  trying 
to  recall  the  past.  It  has  been  quite  cold  here,  bat  yester- 
day and  day  before  were  fine.  We  took  advantage  of  the  fine 
weather  to  go  to  Tivoli  Wednesday  and  had  a  perfect  day. 
The  villa  d'Este  was  most  beautiful  with  its  wonderful  cypress 
trees  and  gardens  and  fountains.  We  had  lunch,  which  we 
took  with  us,  in  a  beautiful  court  on  a  great  marble  table,  with 
such  a  view  of  Rome  as  I  could  never  describe.  We  also  saw 
all  the  cascades  and  went  to  the  very  lowest  part  of  the  won- 
derful rocky  basins  where  the  Anio  rushes  through.  Then  we 
went  to  Hadrian's  villa,  a  very  large  ruin  and  home  by  the 
trolley. 

Sunday  being  Easter  we  went  to  St.  Peter's  and  were 
lucky  enough  to  get  seats  in  one  of  the  tribunes.  Cardinal 
Rampolla  officiated  and  it  was  the  greatest  mummery  I  ever 
saw,  and  not  at  all  the  magnificent  spectacle  I  saw  at  Christ- 
mas time  many  years  ago.  In  the  afternoon  we  drove  first  in 
the  Borghese  gardens,  so  lovely,  and  then  on  the  Pincian.  In 
the  latter  you  could  not  call  it  driving,  as  we  were  at  a  stand- 
still most  of  the  time,  the  crowd  was  so  tremendous.  We 
dined  at  the  Grand  Hotel  in  the  evening,  as  that  is  where  one 

501 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

must  go  to  see  the  fashionable  world.  We  drove  out  the  Via 
Appia  Nuova,  and  across  the  Campania  and  the  views  of  the 
Sabine  hills  and  Frascati  were  most  lovely.  Wednesday  morn- 
ing was  the  rag  fair,  which  takes  place  once  a  week  and  all  the 
world  was  there,  and  it  was  great  fun.  In  the  evening  I  dined 
at  the  Hotel  Royal  and  made  an  engagement  to  drive  today 
to  the  Villa  Doria-Pamiili.  Unfortunately  it  was  a  very  bad 
day  and  we  went  instead  to  the  Barberini  Palace  and  to  Cas- 
tellani's.  The  latter,  the  jeweller,  was  there  in  his  store  and 
he  said  the  one  who  came  to  Philadelphia  was  the  antiqua- 
rian. When  I  asked  him  about  Mme.  Castellani  he  said  he 
did  not  know  her,  she  had  never  been  presented  to  him. 

From  there  we  met  the  Elliots  at  the  Baths  of  Diocletian 
near  the  Grand  Hotel  to  visit  the  studio  of  Mr.  Ezekiel,  it  being 
his  reception  day.  His  studio  is  one  of  the  sights  of  Rome  and 
the  approach  up  an  incline  with  trellis  of  wistaria  and  roses  in 
full  bloom  and  walls  of  antique  marble  and  busts,  leads  to  a 
big  room  under  the  old  Roman  arches  which  he  has  made  by 
putting  in  a  floor,  at  the  proper  height.  We  saw  a  model  of 
the  monument  of  Thomas  Jefferson  which  he  has  just  put  up 
at  Louisville  and  a  bust  of  Anthony  Drexel,  which  he  is  work- 
ing at  for  a  gigantic  statue,  an  excellent  likeness.  I  called  at 
the  embassy  one  day  and  left  my  letter  and  received  a  card 
the  next  day  for  the  Wednesday  reception.  Mrs.  Elliot  and 
I  went  and  were  amazed  at  the  magnificence  of  the  home, 
such  a  palace,  with  old  glorious  gardens  right  in  the  heart  of 
Rome  and  such  decorations  and  tapestries  and  pictures.  One 
room  was  in  white  velvet.  I  also  presented  the  letter  to  Mrs. 
Haseltine,  which  Mrs.  Smith  gave  me  and  was  invited  to 
lunch  yesterday.  I  found  another  palace,  very  old,  and  full  of 
art  treasures,  and  we  had  lunch  informally  in  a  small  room. 
Mrs.  H.  made  herself  very  agreeable.  I  met  the  Fowlers 
to-day  and  they  are  going  on  to  Paris  to-morrow  and  will  get 
me  a  room  at  the  Hotel  Perouse,  near  the  Columbia,  where 
they  are  going  to  stay.     I  did  not  present  my  letter  to  Lanci- 

ani,  and  am  sorry  as  the  Fowlers  said  he  was  delightful. 

502 


ITALY 

Last  night  Mrs.  Elliot  and  I  went  to  the  Opera  at  the 
Costanzi  Theatre  to  see  a  new  opera  "Germania"  which  had 
one  good  singer,  a  splendid  orchestra  and  wonderful  scenery. 
Very  few  people  in  the  house  as  the  King  and  Queen  don't 
go.  I  had  a  nice  letter  from  Mrs.  Hazard,  saying  she  expected 
some  New  York  people  to  be  staying  with  her  the  last  of 
April,  but  that  if  they  didn't  come  she  wanted  me  to  stay 
there,  but  in  any  case  to  come  to  some  nearby  hotel  where 
she  would  be  in  touch  with  me. 

I  got  the  rosaries  blessed  by  the  Pope,  which  I  bought  at 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  Jerusalem  and  at  Bethlehem. 

I  shall  be  with  you  again  before  you  know  where  you  are. 
So  good  bye  with  much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Rome,  April  2ist,  1903. 
Dear  Frank,  Cliff  and  Sam, 

I  am  leaving  here  to-morrow  night  alone,  in  a  through 
train  to  Paris,  arriving  Thursday  night.  I  should  have  to 
wait  until  the  first  of  next  week  to  have  company  only  as  far 
as  Florence.  I  am  going  to  the  Hotel  La  Perouse,  near  the 
Arc  de  Triomphe,  where  the  Fowlers  are.  The  Potters  took 
me  for  a  lovely  drive  to  the  Villa  Doria-Pamfili  on  Monte 
Janiculum  passing  Tasso's  oak  and  the  church  where  he  is 
buried.  The  mountains  in  the  distance  are  thickly  covered 
with  snow,  and  they  say  it  has  snowed  in  Paris.  It  has  been 
very  cold  here  and  they  say  they  have  never  known  such 
cold.  The  Elliots  have  been  more  than  kind  and  I  have 
enjoyed  my  stay  very  much.  It  is  a  sort  of  picnic  all  the  time. 
They  have  an  excellent  cook  and  we  revel  in  fresh  peas  and 
asparagus.  I  miss  Clifford  very  much  and  don't  like  the  idea 
of  being  alone.    I  shall  write  again  as  soon  as  I  get  to  Paris. 

With  much  love.  Your  aiT.,  M,  D.  R. 


FRANCE 

Paris,  Wed.,  April  29th,  1903. 
Dear  Frank  and  all, 

Sunday  night.  Mr.  Fowler  sent  us  word  that  as  it  was 
rainy  and  dull  he  wanted  me  to  go  out  to  dinner  with  them 
so  we  went  to  the  Tour  d' Argent  and  he  enjoyed  it  very 
much.  Monday  he  met  Mrs.  Fowler  and  myself  and  we  were 
to  go  to  a  little  place  to  lunch  so  as  not  to  come  all  the  way 
back  here,  but  he  insisted  upon  going  to  Durand's.  We  had 
coffee  and  it  upset  me  so  I  did  not  go  to  Mrs.  Hazard's  in  the 
evening.  Yesterday  when  I  got  back  at  five  I  found  a  formal 
invitation  from  the  F's  to  dine  at  Paillard's  with  them  and  no 
Jersey  business.  It  was  very  gay  and  we  brought  home  sou- 
venir fans.    Mrs.  Spencer  Biddle  called  at  once,  that  is,  Monday. 

I  went  late  this  afternoon  to  call  on  the  Rochambeaus  and 
found  the  old  Marquise  at  home,  and  she  seemed  really  pleased 
to  see  me,  kissed  me  at  least  ten  times  and  has  asked  me  there 
to  dinner.  She  called  in  the  youngest  son,  Guy,  a  tall,  fine- 
looking  fellow,  who  had  to  go  back  to-night  to  his  work  in 
some  school.  As  I  was  sitting  down  stairs  here  in  the  hotel  they 
were  talking  over  the  phone,  the  Due  de  Luynes,  "attendra  la 
Princesse  de  Pless,"  au  cercle  du  Rue  Royal;  high  sounding 
names  are  they  not? 

They   are  making  great  preparations   for  King  Edward, 
decorating   the   streets,    &c.,    and   everything   will   be   closed 
Friday  and  Saturday  on  his  account. 
With   much   love, 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

504 


FRANCE 

Paris,   Sunday,  May  3rd,  1903. 
Dear  Frank, 

Since  I  wrote  you  on  Wednesday  I  have  been  very  busy 
going  about  shopping  and  sightseeing  and  having  a  good  time. 
Thursday  eve.  we  went  over  to  the  Cafe  Foyot  in  the  Rue  de 
Tournon,  a  real  old  fashioned  French  cafe,  and  went  after- 
wards to  the  Concert  Rouge  that  Mrs.  Sims  told  me  about, 
and  where  you  hear  excellent  music  and  people  take  ices  and 
drinks  and  smoke.  Friday  I  tried  to  make  a  return  to  the 
Fowlers  and  took  them  to  Cafe  Durand  for  dinner  and  to  the 
Opera.  King  Edward  arrived  Friday  and  the  streets  were  all 
illuminated  and  it  was  worth  seeing.  He  went  to  the  Opera 
Saturday  night,  but  no  one  could  buy  seats  as  it  was  only  by 
invitation.  The  Opera  was  full,  however,  all  the  boxes  occu- 
pied, but  the  performance  of  Tannhauser  was  very  ordinary. 
I  did  not  care  to  stand  hours  in  the  street  to  see  the  King  so 
I  have  not  seen  him  at  all.  Yesterday  the  Fowlers  and  I  went 
to  the  Salon  (the  Split)  and  found  better  pictures  on  the  whole 
than  at  the  old  salon.  Mr.  F.  made  an  offer  for  two  pictures, 
one  by  Harrison  and  the  other  by  Courtois  and  we  came  up 
to  the  cake  shop  on  the  corner  of  Ave.  Victor  Hugo  and  Rue 
Presbourg  and  had  tea  and  strawberries  and  delicious  cakes. 
The  people  were  crowding  in  after  coming  from  the  races  and 
it  was  very  gay.  I  don't  remember  if  I  wrote  you  I  went  to 
see  the  Marquise  de  Rochambeau  and  she  was  so  glad  to  see 
me.  She  called  yesterday  and  left  a  note  asking  me  to  dinner 
on  Wednesday.  I  got  back  just  in  time  to  go  with  the  Fowlers 
to  dine  at  Noel  and  Peters  and  had  a  fine  dinner.  To-day  we 
went  to  the  Madeleine  and  St.  Roch  and  lunched  at  Viau's, 
and  have  dined  here  at  the  hotel.  They  leave  to-morrow 
morning  for  London  and  will  have  a  special  compartment  in 
the  train  and  on  the  boat.  I  sail  Friday  and  this  is  my  last 
letter,  so  good  bye  and  hoping  to  see  you  in  New  York,  with 
much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 


505 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1906 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1906 

After  the  long  excursion  of  1903  the  "Wanderlust"  re- 
turned and  the  following  years  were  filled  with  studies  of  new 
scenes  and  historic  places  to  be  visited. 

With  her  niece  as  companion  and  with  a  desire  to  give  her 
the  benefits  of  travel,  Mrs.  Rosengarten  sailed  from  New 
York,  aboard  the  Steamship  Celtic  February  13th,  1906, 
visiting  Fayal  and  the  Azores,  thence  to  Gibraltar,  Naples, 
Sorrento,  Pompeii,  Amalfi,  La  Cava  and  Ravello,  "a  spot  like 
Heaven!"  A  visit  to  Taormina,  Paestum  Salerno,  Messina, 
Palermo,  Syracuse,  Naples  and  to  Capri,  Anacapri  and 
Rome  for  Easter  week  was  also  made. 

Then  began  the  long  thought  of  tour  to  the  Hill  Towns 
of  Italy  —  Orvieto,  Bracciano,  Villa  Lante,  Viterbo,  Forter- 
ezzo,  Montefiascone,  Spoleto,  Assisi,  Foligno  and  Spello, 
Perugia,  Siena,  Trevi,  Florence,  Fiesole,  Venice,  Verona  and 
over  the  Brenner,  through  the  Tyrol  on  to  Aiunich.  Thence 
to  Augsburg  and  Ulm,  to  Sigmaringen  for  a  visit  to  the  Count 
and  Countess  Adelmann,  to  Zurich,  Hohentviel,  Rhine  Falls 
at  Schaffhausen,  thence  to  Paris,  to  Dover,  Canterbury  and 
London,  sailing  for  New  York  on  May  21st  from  Dover. 

F.  H.  R. 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  1906 


Aboard  S.  S.  Celtic Feb.  13,  1906    515 

J.   P.  Morgan   aboard. .  .Feb.  13,  1906    515 

He  holds  ship  for  visit  to 

Fayal,  etc Feb.  22,  1906    517 

Not  as  beautiful  as  Ma- 
deira  Feb.  23,  1906    518 

Magnolia  trees,  gera- 
niums and  roses  in  full 
bloom Feb.  23,  1906    518 

Portuguese  only  language  Feb.  23,  1906    518 

Courteous  resident  shows 

his  gardens Feb.  23,  1906    5 19 

Rough  experience  return- 
ing to  the  ship Feb.  23,  1906    519 

Ponta  Delgada Feb.  23,  1906    520 

Rough  Landing  at  Fayal  Feb.  26,  1906    520 

Hotel     Bruno,     frisia     in 

full  bloom Feb   26,  1906    520 

Battle  of   flowers,  pelted 

with  flowers Feb.  26,  1906    521 

Lillies,     camellias,    frisia, 

acacia,  etc Feb.  26,  1906    521 

Impressive  look  of  ship  at 

night Feb.  26,  1906    522 

Landing    at    Gibraltar.  .  .Feb.  28,  1906    523 

The    sights    of   Gibraltar, 

Bougainvillea    vines    .  .Feb.  28,  1906    523 

Shrove       Tuesday       and 

crowds  of  people Feb.  28,  1906    523 

Arab  market Feb.  28,  1906    523 

Concert   for   Seamen's 

Home Feb. 28,  1906    524 

Grand  Hotel,  Naples Mar.  2,  1906    525 

Discomforts  of  getting  on 

land— rain Mar.  2,  1906    525 

Hotel  superb Mar.  2,  1906    525 

Othello  at  the  Opera Mar.  4,  1906    526 

Red     lava     rolling    down 

from  Vesuvius Mar.  4,  1906    526 

After    rain    and    warmth 

very  cold Mar.  4,  1906    527 

Cathedral  and  Bertolini  .Mar.  4,  1906    527 

$40  a  day  for  automobile. Mar.  4,  1906    527 

Sorrento Mar.  4,  1906    527 

Beautiful  weather Mar.  6,  1906    527 

Pozzuoli,    Cape    Mi  sense 

and  Baise Mar.  6,  1906    528 

Grotto    of     Posilipo    and 

the  new  grotto Mar.  6,  1906     528 

Solfatara,     old     port     of 

Caligula Mar.  6,  1906     528 

Villas  of  Cicero  and   Sal- 
lust Mar.  6,  1906    528 

Falernian  wine Mar.  6,  1906    529 


Lucrene    Lake    and    Lake 

Avernus Mar.  6,  1906  529 

Grotto    of    the    Cumsean 

Sybil Mar.  6,  1906  529 

Hard  time  getting  to  sta- 
tion   Mar.  6,  1906  530 

Pompeii Mar.  6,  1906  530 

Beauty    of    the    coast    to 

Sorrento Mar.  6,  1906  530 

Tarantella Mar.  6,  1906  530 

Amalii Mar.  7,  1906  531 

Features  of  people  chang- 
ing  Mar.  7,  1906  531 

Climb  270  steps Mar.  7,  1906  531 

La  Cava Mar.  9,  1907  532 

Paestum Mar.  9,  1906  532 

Ravello Mar.  9,  1906  532 

A  spot  like  heaven Mar.  9,  1906  533 

Wonderful  mosaic  pulpit  Mar.  9,  1906  533 

Taormina Mar.ii,  1906  533 

Temple      of      Ceres       at 

Pajstum Mar. 1 1,  1906  534 

Picnic  on  the  Altar  of  the 

Basilica Mar.il,  1906  534 

Salerno  to  Messina Mar.ii,  1906  534 

Splendid  Mountain  Scen- 
ery  Mar.ii,  1906  534 

Reggio,  across  the  straits 
in  20  minutes  to  Mes- 
sina  Mar.ii,  1906  535 

Palermo  car  on  the  boat  .Mar.ii,  1906  535 

Warm  drive  to  Taormina  Mar.ii,  1906  536 

Hotel  Timeo Mar.ii,  1906  536 

Mt.    JEtna    and    beauty 

everywhere Mar.ii,  1906  536 

Gardens  of  hotel  so  beau- 
tiful   Mar.ii,  1906  536 

Mr.        Wood's        studio, 

Taormina Mar.ii,  1906  536 

Domenico  Convent  Hotel  Mar.ii,  1906  537 

Mola Mar.ii,  1906  537 

M.  D.  R.'s  birthday Mar.ii,  1906  538 

Funny  description  of  her 
trip  in  the  grotto  of  the 

Cumsean  Sybil Mar.i  i,  1906  538 

Scare  in  sleeping  car Mar.ii,  1906  538 

Grand   Hotel  Villa   Politi 

Syracuse Mar.17,  1906  539 

Girgenti  and  the  Temples  Mar.17,  1906  539 
Greek  theatre  and  Roman 

amphitheatre,  SyracuseMar.17,  1906  540 

Almond  trees  in  full  bloomMar.  17.  1906  54c 
The     Faraglioni      (Rocks 

thrown   by  Polhemus)  .Mar.17,  1906  540 

Fort  Euryalus Mar.17,  1906  540 


511 


INDEX 


Grand  Hotel  Des  Pal- 
mes, Palermo Mar. 

Capella  Palatina Mar. 

Monreale Mar. 

Villa  Tasca,  ideal  gardens. Mar. 
By  steamer  to  Naples. . .  .Mar. 

Capri Mar. 

St.  Lucia  and  Sorrento. .  .Mar. 
Hotel  Luisisana,  Capri.  .  .Mar. 

Colder  than  Sicily Mar. 

Anacapri Mar. 

Visit   to  the  villa   of  the 

Bodines Mar. 

Barbarossa  Castle Mar. 

Very     rough     voyage    to 

Naples Mar. 

Savoy  Hotel,  Rome Mar. 

500  hotels    and    pensions 

crowded  in  Rome Mar. 

The   Pantheon,  Ara  Coeli 

and  the  Capitol Mar. 

Hail,    rain    and    sunshine 

cold Mar. 

Tea  at  the  "Excelsior"  a 

great  sight Mar. 

Rome Mar. 

Borghese  gallery  and  the 

garden    Mar. 

Palace  Hotel,  Rome Apr. 

Weather  very  cold Apr. 

Rag  Fair  "  Campodi  Fiori"Apr. 
Prof.    Reynault's    lecture 

at  the  Palatine  Hill  ....  Apr. 
St.  Paul's  on  the  Appian 

Way Apr. 

Vatican Apr. 

Colonna,      Corsini      and 

Rospigliosi  Palaces.  .  .Apr. 
Tea     Rooms,     Piazza     di 

Spagni Apr. 

Coliseum  illuminated 

with  Bengal  lights.  .  .  .Apr. 

Lanciani Apr. 

Tunnel  under  the  Quirinal.Apr. 
Ruins    not   as    interesting 

as  formerly Apr. 

Sacristy    at     St.     Peter's, 

Rome Apr. 

Fragments  of  Malazzo  di 

Fiorli's  frescoes Apr. 

Baths    of    Titus,    golden 

house  of  Nero Apr. 

San  Clement's Apr. 

"A  day  with  St.  Paul".  .  .Apr. 

English  cemetery Apr. 

Monument  of  Story  to  his 

wife Apr. 

Tomb  of  Caius  Cestius.  .Apr. 

Aurelian  Wall Apr. 

Basilica  of  St.  Paul Apr. 

Catacombs  of  Domitilla.  .Apr. 
Alban    Hills    and    Sabine 

Mountains Apr. 


.21, 

1906 

541 

.21, 

1906 

542 

.21, 

1906 

542 

.21, 

1906 

S43 

.22, 

1906 

543 

.22, 

1906 

543 

.22, 

1906 

544 

,22, 

1906 

544 

.22, 

1906 

544 

.22, 

1906 

544 

.22, 

1916 

544 

.22, 

1906 

545 

•2';, 

1906 

546 

•25, 

1906 

546 

•25. 

1906 

546 

•25. 

1906 

546 

•25, 

1906 

546 

•2=;, 

1906 

546 

.26, 

1906 

547 

.26, 

1906 

547 

I, 

1906 

547 

I, 

1906 

547 

I, 

1906 

S4« 

I, 

1906 

548 

I, 

1906 

548 

I, 

1906 

548 

■  I, 

1906 

549 

I, 

1906 

549 

Ij 

1906 

549 

I, 

1906 

550 

I, 

1906 

550 

I, 

1906 

550 

3- 

1906 

551 

3, 

1906 

551 

3. 

1906 

551 

•  3. 

1906 

551 

3, 

1906 

552 

3, 

1906 

552 

•  3, 

1906 

552 

■  3, 

1906 

552 

•  3, 

1906 

552 

■  3, 

1906 

552 

■  3, 

1906 

552 

3, 1906  552 


Tomb  of  Cecilia  Metella.  Apr.    3,  1906    552 

Circus  Maxentius     Apr.    3,  1906    552 

Baths  of  Caracalla Apr.    3,  1906    552 

Church  of  San  Sebastian. Apr.    3,  1096    552 

Professor  Tani Apr.    3,1906    553 

Opera   "  Rheingold,  I'oro 

di  Reno" Apr.    3,  1906    553 

Magnificently  staged   but 

too  funny  in  Italian.  .  .Apr.  5,  1906  554 
San  Lorenzo,   outside   the 

walls,  Pius  9th's  tomb. Apr.    5,  1906    554 

Orvieto Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Viterbo Apr.    8.  1906    555 

Difficulty    in    getting    to 

Trastevere  station Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Ride     across     the     Cam- 

pagna Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Change  of  climate  cross- 
ing Cimian  Hills Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Bracciano Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Castle  of  Orsini Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Caprainca Apr.    8,  1906    555 

Etrurian  plain  to  Viterbo.  Apr.  8,1906  556 
Padrone   of    hotel  a  good 

guide Apr.    8,  1906    556 

Villa  Lante,  Bagnaja Apr.    8,  1906    556 

The  Munlcipio Apr.    8,  1906    556 

Etruscan  sarcophagi Apr.    8,  1906    556 

Viterbo,  ancient  palace  of 

the   Popes   where   Pope 

John  22nd  was  killed.  .Apr.  8,  1906  556 
The       Santa       Pellegrina 

quarter Apr.    8,  1906    557 

Bridge    over    the     ravine 

and  mediaeval  towers. Apr.  8,  1906  557 
Gate  with  three  arches.  .  .Apr.  8,  1906  557 
Duchess    Di     Lante,    was 

Miss  Allen  of  St.  Louis  Apr.  8,  1906  557 
Orvieto,  and  the  Funicular 

Railway Apr.    8,  1906    558 

Curious  bed  warmers.  ..  .Apr.    8,  1906    558 

Beautiful  Cathedral Apr.    8,  1906    559 

Gregorian  music,  the  bish- 
op   officiating Apr.    8,  1906    559 

Frescoes  in  the  side  Chapel 

of  Luca  Signorelli Apr.    8,  1906    559 

Forterezzo Apr.    8,  1906    560 

Terrifying   depths    visible 

from  parapets Apr.    8,  1906    560 

San     Patrizio,     Etruscan 

Necropolis Apr.    8,  1906    560 

Wine     of     Montefiascone 

called  Est,  Est,  Est.  .  .  .Apr.    8,  1906    561 

Spoleto Apr.    9,  1906    561 

News  of  the  eruption  of 

Vesuvius,    a   dreadful 

tragedy Apr.    9,  1906    561 

Orte Apr.    9,  1906    562 

A"priest"  to  warm  thebedApr.  9,1906  563 
Paintings  by  Lo  Spagna  in 

the  Municipio Apr.    9,  1906    564 

Through  trap  door  to  see 

Roman  Bridge Apr.    9,1906    564 

512 


INDEX 


Drive   to   Assisi,    Foligno 

and  Spello Apr.    9, 

Perugia Apr.  1 2, 

San      Pietro,      stalls      of 

Raphael Apr.  12, 

Siena Apr.  14, 

Terontola,  misfortunes  of 

a  German  couple Apr.  14, 

Chiusi    and    its    Etruscan 

museum Apr.  14, 

Trevi,  Foligno,  Spello.  .  .  .Apr.  14, 
Christ     in     the     Temple 

among  the  Doctors.  .  .  .Apr.  14, 
Assisi    and    the    Umbrian 

Plain Apr.  14, 

"Porginneula, "  where  St. 

Francis  began  life Apr.  14, 

Thornless  rose  trees.  .  .  .Apr.  14, 
Assisi    and    the   works   of 

of  Giotto  and  Cimabue  Apr.  14, 
The    Duomo    and    Santa 

Chiava Apr.  14, 

Drive  to  Perugia Apr.  14, 

Hotel  Brufani  and  Pal- 
ace Hotel Apr.  14, 

Roman      and       Etruscan 

gates  and  museum  .  .  .  .Apr.  14, 
Baglioni's    Castle,    Porta 

Marcia Apr.  14, 

Piazza  Municipio Apr.  14, 

Collegio  del  Gambia Apr.  14, 

Cathedral  and   high  mass 

at  Perugia Apr.  14, 

San         Gimignano       and 

Poggibonsi Apr.  14, 

The     park     called     "The 

Lizza" Apr.  14, 

Grand  Hotel,  Siena Apr.  15, 

Easter  Sunday Apr.  15, 

Cathedral  and  Piccolo- 
mini  chapel Apr.  15, 

Castello  of  Belcaro Apr.  15, 

Bastions  of  the  Fort  Santa 

Barbara Apr.  15, 

Ride  to  Monte  Oliveto.  .Apr.  16, 

Porta  Romana Apr.  16, 

Envying        automobile 

travellers Apr.  16, 

Mediaeval   palaces  on  the 

Corso Apr.  16, 

Piazza  VittorioEmmanueleApr.  16, 
Palazzo  Publico,  Maugia.Apr.  16, 
Academia       delle       Belle 

Arte Apr.  16, 

"Adoration  of  the  Magi" 

San  Agostino Apr.  16, 

Siena  not  as  beautiful  as 

Perugia Apr.  16, 

Anglo-American        Hotel, 

Florence Apr.  18, 

San  Gimignano Apr.  18, 

Uffizi  Gallery Apr.  19, 

Ponte  Vecchio Apr.  19, 

33 


News   of   the   San   Fran- 

906    564  cisco  earthquake Apr.  19,  1906    578 

906    565       At  Orvieto  when  Vesuvius 

erupted Apr.  19,  1906    578 

906    566       Letter      from      Countess 

906    566  Adelmann Apr.  19,  1906    578 

Fiesole Apr.  21,  1906    578 

906    566       Trees  out,  rose  bushes  in 

full  bloom Apr.  21,  1906    578 

906    567       Roman      theatre,     Hotel 

906    567  Aurora Apr.  21,  1906    578 

Bargello,    Palace    of    the 
906    567  Podesta Apr.  21,  1906    580 

Jewelry     shops     on     the 
906    568  Ponte  Vecchio Apr.  21,  1906    580 

Hotel      Royal       Danieli, 

906    568  Venice Apr.  26,  1906    580 

906    568       Ride  over  the  Apennines, 

45  Tunnels Apr.  26,  1906    581 

906    568       Venice      as      surprisingly 

beautiful  as  ever Apr.  26,  1906    581 

906    569       Campanile  unfinished.  ..  .Apr.  26,  1906    581 
906    569      Two  hours  in  the  Doges' 

Palace Apr.  26,  1906    581 

906    569       Bought  lace Apr.  26,  1906    581 

St.  Maria  della  Salute.  .  .  .Apr.  26,  1906    582 
906    570       Frari  and  Canova's  TombApr.  6,  1906      582 

Private  gondolas Apr.  26,  1906    583 

906    570       Don  Carlos  and  his  wife. .  .Apr.  26,  1906    583 

906    570       Difficulties       in       getting 

906    570  tickets  to  Munich Apr.  28,  1906    583 

Murano    and     the     glass 
906    571           works  in  the  glass  com- 
pany's gondola Apr.  28,  1906    583 

906    571       English    warship     Drake, 
Prince  Louis  of  Batten- 

906    571  berg Apr.  28,  1906    584 

906    572       Wonders  of  St.  Mark's.  .Apr.  28,  1906    584 
906    572       Leaving  Venice Apr.  29,  1906    584 

Difficulties      at      Verona 
906    572  getting  R.R.  tickets.  .  .May    2,  1906    585 

906    572       Botzen   and    the   Brenner 

Pass May    2,  1906    585 

906    573       Arrival  at  Munich May    2,  1906    586 

906    573       Freiherr       Von       Soden, 

906    573  meeting  us May    2,1906    586 

Grand  affair  at  Munich  in 

906  573  House  of  Peers May    2,1906    586 

Son  of  Prince  Karl  Theo- 

907  574  dore  made  a  Peer May    2,  1906    586 

906    574      The  Mother  of  the  Prince. May    2,1906    587 
906    574       Many  interesting  officials 

and  uniforms May    2,  1906    587 

906    575       Curious    sensation   sitting 

in  Box  with  Royalty.  .May    2,  1906    587 

906    575       Augsburg  and  Ulm May    2,1906    588 

Arrival  at  Sigmaringen. .  .May     2,  1906  588 
906    575        Familiar       scenes       after 

visits  of  1897,  1900  and 

906    576  1903 May    2,  1906    588 

906    576       Many  improvements,  cor- 
906    577  dial  reception  by  Count 

906    577  and  Countess  Adelmann  May    2,1906    588 


INDEX 


General  von  Camerer  . .  .  .May  2,  1906  588 
Count       and       Countess 

Bruhl,  Governor  of  Ho- 

henzollern  Sigmaringen  May  2,  1906  589 
Snowed  four  times  during 

drive May    2,  1906    589 

Inzigkofen,  missed  the  old 

Prince  since  his  death.  .May  2,  1906  589 
Castle  beautiful  and  fin- 
ished  May    2,  1906    589 

Zurich,  Baur-au-Lac May    3,  1906    589 

Immendlngen,    wonderful 

cars May    3,  1906    589 

Hohentviel     near     Singen 

(Ekkehard) May    3,1906    590 

Rhine    Falls    and    SchafT- 

hausen May    3,  1906    590 

Sights  in  Zurich May    3,  1906    590 

Paris,  Hotel  Belmont.  .  .  .May  5,  1906  591 
Ride  to  Paris  rough  and 

uncomfortable May    5,  1906    591 

Call       of       Rochambeau 

family May    7,  1906    592 

Invalides,        Luxembourg 

gardens May    7,  1906    592 

Pantheon,     St.      Etienne, 

Notre        Dame,         old 

Louvre,     St.    Germain, 

I'Auxerrois May    7,  1906    592 

Tea  at  Columbin's May    7,  1906    592 

Tea  at  Rumpelmeyer's . .  .May    8,  1906    592 


Lord        Berwick,        Miss 

Noel-Hill May    8,  1906    592 

Versailles,       Hotel       des 

Reservoirs May  13,  1906    593 

Residence    of     Mme.    de 

Pompadour May  13,  1906    593 

Samson  and  Delilah  at  the 

Grand  Opera May  13,  1906    593 

Alvarez  as  Samson,  Mme. 

Heglou  as  Delilah May  13,  1906    593 

The   Cid     at   the  theatre 

Francais May  13,  1906    594 

St.  Sulpice May  13,  1906    594 

VVidor  at  the  Organ May  13,  1906    594 

AL-ideleine May  13,  1906    594 

Bois    de    Boulogne,    Put- 

eaux  Club,  Neuilly.  .  .  .May  13,  1906  595 
The  Cascade  and  Lakes.  .May  13,  1906  595 
Lunch     to    Rochambeaus 

at  the  Ritz May  13,  1906    595 

Journey  to  Dover May  17,  1906    596 

Madame  Marchesi May  17,  1906    596 

M.  D'Aillieres  and  Baron 

Boulay  de  la  Meurthe.  May  17,  1906  596 
Dinner    given    by    Count 

and  Countess  Rocham- 
beau  May  17,  1906    596 

Canterbury May  18,  1906    598 

Hotel  Metropole,  Lon- 
don  May  21,  1906    598 

Sailing    for     home     from 

Dover May  21,  1906    598 


EN  ROUTE 

Feb.  13th,  1906. 
Aboard  S.  S.  "Celtic." 
Leaving  New  York. 
Dear  Frank, 

When  you  were  so  far  away  as  to  be  indistinct,  we  found 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fowler  and  proceeded  to  hunt  up  our  deck 
chairs.  It  does  seem  as  if  this  separation  were  unnecessary 
and  that  you  would  have  enjoyed  immensely  the  whole 
trip.  Pierpont  Morgan  came  out  on  deck.  We  could  see  you 
distinctly  until  we  were  going  quite  fast  and  then  we  ran  to 
the  other  side  when  the  ship  turned. 

We  got  in  here  just  in  time  for  the  people  are  now  crowding. 
The  steam  toot  was  tremendous;  and  did  you  hear  the  bugle .^ 
We  are  starving,  but  there  is  no  prospect  of  lunch  that  I  can 
see.  The  lunch  bugle  has  just  sounded,  so  I  now  hope  we  may 
get  something.  With  much  love  for  you  all,  and  greetings  to 
all  the  family.  Affectionately  yours,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S. — My  next  letter  will  tell  you  all  about  the  voyage 
and  will  be  posted  at  Gibraltar  and  will  probably  be  almost 
three  weeks  from  now  in  getting  to  you. 

Monday,  Feb.  19th,  1906,  6.30  P.  M. 
Aboard  S.  S.  "Celtic." 
Dear  Frank  and  Boys, 

Having  been  driven  in  from  deck  by  showers  I  have  time 
to  write  awhile,  the  first  sitting  for  dinner  being  in  progress 
and  we  do  not  dine  until  7.15.     Laura  has  complained  of  the 

515 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

ocean  that  she  might  as  well  be  sailing  on  the  Potomac,  for 
until  noon  today  there  has  been  absolutely  no  motion,  but 
while  we  were  at  lunch  the  ocean  became  covered  with  white 
caps  and  the  ship  began  to  roll.  Fortunately  none  of  us  feel 
the  slightest  inclination  toward  seasickness  as  no  doubt  we 
have  become  used  to  the  ship  in  these  two  smooth  days.  I 
have  not  got  up  early  in  the  mornings,  but  once  up  have  spent 
the  day  until  bedtime  on  deck. 

Mr.  Morgan  plays  bridge  the  entire  day  in  his  parlor  and 
is  only  seen  at  lunch  and  dinner.  I  occasionally  talk  with  the 
Canadian  ladies  and  Miss  Hallowell,  but  am  generally  asleep 
in  my  chair  beside  Mrs.  Fowler.  Laura  is  radiantly  happy 
and  is  hoping  it  will  be  very  rough. 

We  had  a  terrible  shock  the  first  night  when  we  found  the 
wine  pantry  and  the  place  where  they  wash  the  knives  was 
up  against  the  wall  of  our  stateroom,  and  we  only  slept  from 
1 1 .30  to  4.30,  when  the  noise  began  again.  I  went  to  the  purser 
who  said  there  was  only  one  stateroom  on  the  ship  and  that 
an  inside  one  on  the  lowest  deck,  but  said  he  would  see  that 
the  noise  diminished.  It  was  much  better  last  night  and  we 
had  a  good  sleep. 

To-night  it  is  so  rough  they  must  close  the  portholes  and  I 
fear  it  will  be  stuflpy.  I  wish  for  you  every  day — am  sure  you 
would  have  been  comfortable.  We  are  one  deck  too  low  down 
for  comfort.  I  said  today  that  you  would  have  made  the 
acquaintance  of  all  the  men  in  the  smoking  room  and  Mr. 
Fowler  said  you  had  a  very  winning  personality. 

Mrs.  F.  thinks  he  is  weakening  over  the  four-days'  trip  to 
Alexandria,  so  they  may  change  and  go  with  us  to  Sicily.  I 
do  hope  so.  I  shall  go  to  Cooks'  at  once  on  arriving  at  Naples 
and  arrange  a  tour  down  the  Italian  coast  to  Reggio  and  Sicily 
and  back  by  steamer  from  Palermo  to  Naples. 

The  food  is  excellent  and  very  daintily  served,  and  we  have 

stuffed  Hamburg  grapes  as  the  Fowlers  had  so  many  baskets 

of  fruit.     I  also  was  surprised  to  find  in  my  cabin  a  big  box 

of  Maron  candy  from  Mrs.  Jordan,  which  caused  me  much 

pleasure  as  well  as  surprise. 

516 


EN  ROUTE 

Thursday,  Feb.  22nd,  1906. 

Although  there  is  a  howling  roaring  storm  outside  the  ship 
is  as  steady  as  a  house,  and  no  one  shows  the  slightest  symp- 
tom of  illness.  This  weather  is  a  great  disappointment  to  all, 
as  we  arrive  at  Fayal  tomorrow  early  and  if  it  is  rough  and 
stormy  we  cannot  land  in  little  boats.  They  do  not  usually 
land  here  but  Mr.  Pierpont  Morgan  fortunately  wished  it. 
We  were  to  spend  the  day  there  and  spend  Saturday  at  Ponta 
Delgada,  which  would  bring  us  to  Gibraltar  on  Tuesday  and 
Naples  Friday  morning. 

Laura  is  as  happy  as  possible  and  perfectly  well.  Tell 
Sam  to  read  the  "Conquest  of  Canaan,"  by  Booth  Tarking- 
ton.     It  is  full  of  law  and  will  interest  him. 

Mr.  Smith,  Commodore  of  the  New  York  Yacht  Club,  sits 
at  the  next  table  with  a  big  family,  and  I  never  saw  such  a  lot 
of  things  as  he  has  with  him;  sent  Mr.  Fowler  last  night  corn 
on  the  ear  and  champagne.  Their  table  is  covered  with  flowers, 
fresh  every  day  and  every  sort  of  fruit  and  candy.  We  dipped 
into  Mrs.  Jordan's  box  the  first  time  last  night. 

Pierpont  Morgan  it  seems  expected  to  take  his  son  and 
family  with  him,  but  they  were  prevented  by  sickness,  and 
he  invited  the  Hollands.  I  suppose  the  only  way  is  to  take 
your  own  party  with  you.  Some  people  dress  a  great  deal. 
The  Vanderbilts,  mother  and  daughter,  the  plainest  possible. 

If  we  land  at  Fayal  we  will  post  some  cards  but  I  shall 
send  this  from  Gibraltar  as  you  will  get  it  sooner.  There 
doesn't  seem  to  be  any  one  for  us  to  cling  to,  so  I  suppose  we 
shall  go  our  own  way  and  perhaps  meet  more  interesting 
strangers. 

Fayal,  Friday,  Feb.  23rd,  1906. 

Well,  to-day  the  sun  rose  and  dispersed  the  clouds  and  we 
had  a  fine  view  of  the  islands,  the  Azores,  and  although  the 
water  was  far  from  smooth,  we  got  into  the  small  boats  and 
went  ashore. 

Mr.  Fowler  was  much  upset  by  hearing  of  the  death  of 
Mr.  McCall  of  the  New  York  Life  Insurance  Co.,  and  was  also 

517 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

afraid  of  the  getting  into  the  small  boats  in  such  rough  weather, 
so  did  not  go.  We  certainly  went  up  and  down  and  Laura 
enjoyed  it  hugely. 

It  is  not  as  beautiful  as  Madeira  but  still  is  beautiful.  We 
walked  along  the  first  main  street  past  the  old  Fortress  where 
soldiers  were  standing  on  guard  and  past  a  little  park,  with 
magnolia  trees,  geraniums  and  roses  in  full  bloom.  I  never 
saw  greater  cleanliness,  houses  and  streets  immaculate.  The 
women  wear  cloaks  not  unlike  our  Shakers  with  enormous 


THE  HARBOR  AT  FAYAL 

hoods  wired  to  hold  them  out.  There  were  no  horses,  only 
mules,  donkeys  and  oxen.  The  drays  have  wicker  tops  and 
solid  wooden  wheels. 

The  church  was  up  high  above  the  street  and  only  interest- 
ing for  its  lining  of  blue  and  white  tiles  forming  large  sacred 
pictures.  We  had  lunch  at  the  Fayal  Hotel  where  they  did 
not  speak  a  word  of  anything  but  Portuguese.  The  bread, 
coffee  and  oranges  were  delicious  and  with  an  omelette  made  a 
very  good  lunch.  Miss  Hallowell  told  us  they  had  gone  at 
once  to  the  Dabney  House,  built  in  1810  by  Mr.  Dabney  and 
occupied  by  several  generations  of  Dabneys,  whom  she  knew 

518 


EN  ROUTE 

very  well.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wood  live  there  at  present  and 
showed  them  all  over  the  house  and  grounds,  where  there  are 
still  furnishings  belonging  to  the  Dabneys. 

Of  course  I  knew  nothing  of  this  place,  but  it  seems  Mr. 
Morgan  had  been  here  when  he  was  14  years  old  and  it  was 
to  please  him  the  ship  stopped  to-day. 

After  our  lunch  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  up  and  back 
on  the  mountain  where  we  had  a  superb  view.    A  man  stopped 


MOUNTAINS  BACK  OF  FAYAL 

the  carriage  as  we  turned  and  said  in  English,  "Will  you  not 
come  in  and  look  at  my  place.'*  I  think  you  would  like  to  see 
oranges  and  lemons  growing  and  maybe  to  take  a  photograph 
of  it."  So  we  went  in  and  he  had  a  nice  square  house  of  stone 
and  plaster  and  with  shutters  and  a  big  farm  and  a  small 
grove  of  oranges,  lemons  and  bananas  enclosed  in  a  bamboo 
hedge.  He  insisted  upon  cutting  off  great  branches  of  each 
and  of  roses  and  orange  blossoms,  so  we  drove  back  laden  with 
good  things  and  very  tired. 

We  had  a  very  hard  time  getting  on  the  ship,  the  boat 

519 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

tossed  up  and  down  so  far  and  we  are  tired  and  going  to  bed 
early,  as  to-morrow  we  land  at  Ponta  Delgada,  where  there 
is  to  be  a  flower  festival.  Mr.  Fowler  sends  greetings  to  you 
and  says  he  is  sorry  he  could  not  land  with  us.  Mrs.  Vander- 
bilt  and  her  daughter  went  on  shore  and  lunched  at  the  Hotel, 
altho  some  people  preferred  to  come  back  to  the  ship.  Good 
night,  I  w^ill  WTite  again  to-morrow  night. 

En  route  to  Gibraltar 
Monday,  Feb.  26th,  1906. 

Our  day  at  Ponta  Delgada  was  a  great  success  although 
it  was  so  very  rough  that  the  officers  said  at  first  no  women 
would  be  allowed  to  land.  Mr.  Fowler  was  dead  against  it 
as  the  waves  came  way  up  over  the  landing  of  the  ladder  and 
the  boats  would  go  up  and  down  ten  feet.  But  Mr.  Morgan 
went  off  and  then  a  lot  of  women  and  Laura  begged  to  go,  so 
finally  after  I  had  seen  the  Misses  Hallowell  start  we  decided 
to  go.  My  heart  was  really  in  my  mouth  when  I  waited  for 
the  boat  to  come  up  at  the  critical  moment  for  jumping.  I 
obeyed  the  sailor  and  when  he  said  go  I  went,  sprawling  into 
the  boat,  then  I  turned  to  see  Laura  execute  a  flying  leap. 
When  the  sailor  told  her  to  go  the  boat  went  down  suddenly, 
but  she  jumped  in  a  long  jump  and  landed  on  a  fat  man  who 
caught  her.  I  have  never  been  in  a  small  boat  (20  ft.)  in  such 
waves,  but  the  boats  ride  the  waves  wonderfully  and  the  only 
danger  was  in  getting  off  and  on. 

We  felt  quite  lost  without  the  Fowlers,  as  we  had  been 

the  last  to  land — every  one  was  away,  so  we  went  into  Cooks' 

office  to  leave  our  wraps,  but  found  the  only  man  who  spoke 

English  was  gone,  so  I  asked  for  the  best  hotel  to  lunch  in 

and  the  Portuguese  at  the  Bank  said  across  the  street.     Going 

over  we  found  the  smells  and  filth  made  that  impossible,  so, 

as  I  noticed  two  men  nearby,  who  looked  like  gentlemen,  I 

asked  them  in  French  if  they  could  tell  me  of  a  place  where 

we  could  lunch  comfortably  and  they  very  politely  directed 

me  to  Hotel  Bruno,  up  the  hill,  and  got  a  man  to  conduct  us 

there. 

520 


EN  ROUTE 

I  noticed  six  girls  who  have  been  with  Miss  Vanderbilt  at 
times  and  they  were  surrounded  by  a  lot  of  tough-looking 
people,  so  I  went  over  to  them  and  said  I  had  learned  of  a 
place  to  lunch  and  if  they  chose  they  could  come  with  me,  so 
they  did  come  and  when  we  got  up  there  we  found  the  party 
including  Mr.  Ward  of  New  York,  head  of  Cable  Co.,  and  a 
Mr.  Hosmer  of  Montreal,  who  had  been  brought  off  by  a 
young  Englishman,  cable  manager  at  Ponta  Delgada.  We 
waited  on  a  balcony  with  a  beautiful  view  of  the  shore  and  a 
lovely  garden  with  frisia  growing  in  full  bloom. 

When  the  lunch  was  ready  for  these  people  they  took 
Laura  and  myself  in  and  the  other  girls  had  a  side  table.  Mr. 
King  of  Baltimore  was  also  of  the  party,  a  man  Mr.  Fowler 
says  brought  up  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  R.  R.  when  low 
down.  He  was  so  polite  and  insisted  upon  getting  a  carriage 
for  me  to  go  to  the  "  Battle  of  Flowers."  In  this  way  we  went 
in  procession  with  them,  the  young  Englishman  managing 
everything  and  went  into  the  Parade.  There  were  many  fine 
vehicles,  beautifully  decorated.  One  in  yellow  and  green  had 
the  horse  painted  yellow.  The  elite  of  the  place  was  out  in 
full  force  and  many  handsome  men  and  women.  From  the 
first  moment  we  were  pelted  with  flowers,  calla  lilies,  camellias, 
such  as  we  pay  a  half  dollar  apiece  for,  bunches  of  frisia,  acacia, 
&c.,  till  our  carriage  was  full. 

I  forgot  to  say  that  one  of  those  girls  who  turned  out  to 
be  Miss  Fish,  daughter  of  Hamilton  Fish,  came  in  our  car- 
riage, and  she  and  Laura  were  wild  with  excitement  and  pelted 
back  with  all  their  might.  Mr.  Alorgan  was  in  an  ordinary 
carriage  in  the  Parade.  We  went  round  and  round  a  park 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  city  block.  People  also  threw  flowers 
from  balconies  on  all  sides.  I  was  constantly  hit  on  the  head, 
but  it  was  great  fun. 

They  didn't  want  to  come  away,  but  I  thought  an  hour 

was  enough  and  wanted  to  follow  Mr.  King.    When  we  came 

to  the  landing  Miss  Fish  said  I  want  to  pay  a  third  of  the 

carriage  and  I  said  wait  until  later  as  I  didn't  know  how  much 

it  would  be. 

521 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

That  evening  Mr.  Meyer  of  New  York,  a  big  blond  man, 
asked  me  to  play  "bridge."  I  think  it  was  to  please  Mr. 
Fowler  as  he  and  his  wife  have  been  playing  with  Senator  and 
Mrs.  Ingalls.  So  he  and  I  and  Miss  Ingalls  played  and  I 
came  out  ahead.  A  Mr.  Thomson  of  Baltimore,  who  looks 
like  Pickwick,  took  his  place  at  the  other  table.  He  said  he 
knew  all  about  the  Rosengartens  and  asked  me  if  I  were 
Harry's  wife.  This  Mr.  Thomson  has  white  hair  and  a  bright 
red  face  and  a  beaming  countenance. 

Last  night  the  stars  and  groups  of  small  stars  were  won- 
derful. You  could  not  imagine  anything  more  impressive 
than  the  great  smoke  stacks  at  night  and  the  immensity  of 
this  ship  as  one  walks  on  the  great  upper  deck  at  night.  It 
seems  so  strange  not  to  have  been  any  more  seasick  than  when 
on  land.  Of  course  I  wish  you  were  all  here  to  enjoy  it  with 
me.  Commodore  Smith  of  the  N.  Y.  Yacht  Club  asked  Laura 
to  go  wdth  them  on  a  tour  of  inspection  of  kitchens,  pantries, 
&c.,  &c. 

We  land  to-morrow  in  Gibraltar  and  must  post  these  letters 
to-night  as  a  ship  is  leaving  for  New  York,  at  once,  so  you  will 
get  this  as  soon  as  possible.  We  are  glad  of  a  chance  to  get 
on  land  for  no  matter  how  good  a  ship  is  the  land  is  better. 
Some  people  get  off  here  to  make  a  tour  through  Spain. 
People  tell  me  it  would  be  necessary  for  women  alone  to  have 
a  courier  so  I  have  given  it  up,  but  it  is  a  great  temptation. 

Hoping  you  are  all  well  and  that  nothing  startling  has  hap- 
pened since  our  departure,  with  much  love  for  all  of  you,  and 
greetings  to  the  girls. 

Yours  affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

Mr.  Fowler  takes  the  best  of  care  of  us  and  I  think  my 
companionship  has  meant  something  to  Mrs.  Fowler.  We 
shall  miss  each  other  as  they  will  go  to  Cairo.  He  has  a  pass 
on  all  the  Egyptian  railways  and  is  going  to  Assouan  by  rail. 
I  have  no  doubt  we  shall  fall  in  with  some  one  on  our  way  to 

Sicily. 

522 


EN  ROUTE 

After  Gibraltar,  S.  S.  Celtic. 
Ash  Wednesday,  Feb.  28th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  arrived  yesterday  at  Gibraltar  and  posted  our  letters 
as  a  ship  was  just  about  to  leave  for  New  York. 

We  got  off  early  and  went  first  to  the  fortifications  and 
were  conducted  by  a  soldier  as  far  as  outsiders  are  allowed  to 
go,  and  had  a  fine  view.  The  coloring  was  exquisite,  water  and 
sky  a  deep  blue  and  the  mountains  purple.  Some  went  over 
to  Algeciras  to  lunch  and  see  the  room  where  the  Commission 
sits  on  the  Morocco  treaty.  Mr.  Morgan  was  lunched  by 
Andrew  D.  White  but  I  didn't  think  it  was  worth  while  to  go 
over  there  on  an  uncertainty. 

We  drove  all  through  the  Alameda,  or  public  park,  and 
the  flowers  were  beautiful.  The  deciduous  trees  are  only  now 
leafing  out.  We  found  we  were  near  the  home  of  Lewis 
Neilson's  cousins  so  stopped  to  call  and  found  Mrs.  Oman  at 
home.  She  seemed  very  glad  to  see  us  and  showed  us  the 
house  and  garden,  which  are  perched  on  the  steep  hillside,  the 
garden  in  terraces  higher  than  the  house.  They  had  a  mag- 
nificent Bougainvillea  vine  with  stem  about  8  inches  thick. 
The  fig  trees  were  only  coming  out  and  she  told  us  they  had 
so  many  figs  they  gave  them  to  any  one  who  asked.  They 
had  a  magnificent  view  out  over  the  water  from  house  and 
garden.  She  was  the  only  one  at  home,  her  sister  and  daughter 
having  gone  into  the  town.  She  invited  us  very  cordially  to 
stay  to  lunch,  but  as  we  had  promised  to  lunch  at  the  Hotel 
we  declined  and  the  ship  sailing  at  4  p.  m.  we  could  not  go 
for  tea. 

It  being  Shrove  Tuesday,  by  afternoon  the  streets  were  full 
of  people  in  mask  and  every  one  was  throwing  paper  confetti 
and  squirting  rose  water.  No  one  missed  us  and  we  were  well 
peppered.  The  Arab  market  was  very  interesting,  full  of 
Arabs  and  you  can  imagine  Laura's  delight.  Mr.  Thomson 
from  Baltimore  bought  her  an  orange  basket  filled  with  man- 
darins and  walnuts  and  dates.     In  the  evening  Mrs.  Lathrop, 

523 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

who  is  a  sister  of  Thomas  Nelson  Page,  showed  us  some  lace 
she  had  bought  and  I  was  sorry  I  had  not  got  some  doilies  to 
go  with  my  Maltese  centre  piece,  but  it  was  too  late. 

I  have  wondered  who  Mrs.  Lathrop  was  and  she  turned 
out  to  be  a  person  Mrs.  Fowler  was  to  be  sure  to  meet.  To- 
night is  the  usual  concert  for  the  Seamen's  Home.  Laura  has 
been  busy  selling  programs  and  has  done  well.  Mr.  Hollins 
gave  her  £i  for  4  programs.  I  have  not  dressed  and  may  not 
go  down,  but  will  give  her  money  to  put  in  the  contribution 
plate. 

They  got  rid  of  many  tons  of  freight  at  Gibraltar,  meat 
and  sacks  of  grain  and  the  ship  is  rolling  more  than  it  did, 
also  47  people  and  their  baggage  were  taken  off.  A  gale  was 
blowing  there  which  we  did  not  feel  in  the  town,  but  made  a 
very  rough  trip  in  the  tender  going  and  coming.  We  are  very 
tired  of  the  ship,  Mrs.  F.  and  I,  but  Laura  and  most  of  the 
men  say  they  don't  want  to  get  off  and  would  like  to  go  on  for 
another  two  weeks. 

We  are  meeting  lots  of  ships  now  and  we  passed  near  the 
Deutschland  and  communicated  by  wireless  but  did  not  see 
her.  To-morrow  we  will  pack  and  get  our  fees  ready.  We  have 
decided  to  go  to  the  Grand  Hotel  at  Naples  and  I  shall  write 
to  the  Palace  Hotel,  Rome,  for  prices. 

Care  has  flown  away  and  I  find  myself  thinking  of  you  all 
without  association  with  dates  or  engagements.  I  suppose 
we  cannot  hope  for  a  letter  for  a  week  or  so.  Every  day  I 
wish  you  were  along  and  am  sure  you  would  have  enjoyed  it 
so  far. 

With  much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 


ITALY 


Grand  Hotel,  Naples, 
Friday,  March  2nd,  6  P.  M.,  1906. 

Dear  Frank  and  All, 

I  suppose  we  are  lucky  to  have  a  room  at  all,  but  you  can 
imagine  disappointment  on  arriving  at  this  Hotel  at  5.30  to 
be  told  we  could  not  have  a  room  before  8  p.  M.,  and  17 
francs  at  that.  Naples  is  crowded  now  and  we  found  it  cloudy 
when  we  got  up  this  a.  m.,  so  that  the  view  of  the  Bay  was 
not  what  I  remember.  Vesuvius  was  obscured  by  a  heavy 
cloud,  but  we  hope  for  better  things  to-morrow. 

Every  one  says  there  never  was  such  an  experience  as  our 
landing  today.  It  took  4>^  hours  to  get  the  luggage  out  from 
the  ship.  It  was  raining  most  of  the  time  and  as  we  were  not 
thinking  of  rain  we  had  packed  our  rain  coats  and  rubbers 
away  and  we  had  to  go  out  in  the  rain  to  hunt  our  trunks, 
which  were  dumped  out  on  the  stone  dock.  All  the  men  were 
so  kind  but  I  managed  by  myself,  going  through  thousands  of 
pieces  of  baggage  until  ours  were  all  found.  We  were  terribly 
tired  of  the  ship  and  poor  Mrs.  Fowler  looks  with  dread  on  the 
approaching  trip  to  Alexandria. 

Even  in  the  rain  the  streets  were  beautiful  and  filled  with 
flowers,  the  big  stiif  bouquets  of  camellias  and  violets  I  re- 
member so  well  from  my  first  visit.  This  hotel  is  superb,  kept 
by  Germans  and  very  expensive.     We  sat  down  in  a  glass- 

525 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

roofed  palm  garden  to  have  tea  and  I  confess  to  being  more 
exhausted  than  I  ever  was  in  my  Hfe.  Laura  almost  went  to 
sleep  sitting  up,  but  the  tea  revived  us  and  whom  should  I  see 
but  Mrs.  Coles,  with  her  husband  and  daughter.  They  are 
going  to-night  by  steamer  to  Palermo.  It  may  be  their  room 
we  are  waiting  for. 

At  the  last  moment  Airs.  Fowler  met  Mrs.  Lathrop  of 
Chicago,  whom  she  wanted  to  meet, — she  is  the  sister  of  Thos. 
Nelson  Page,  and  I  found  that  she  and  the  McBirneys  were 
the  party  the  Houghtelings  were  coming  with.  Also  another 
lady  I  have  admired  and  had  exchanged  greetings  with, 
turns  out  to  be  Mrs.  Stewart  Brown  of  Pittsburgh,  the  people 
Mrs.  Wister  told  me  to  be  sure  to  meet. 

I  shall  go  to  Turner's  to-morrow  but  can  scarcely  hope  to 
have  letters.  The  Hambourg  has  not  yet  arrived.  The 
Biddies  must  be  worn  out,  as  their  ship  is  not  steady  like  the 
Celtic.  I  must  go  to  dinner  and  will  finish  this  to-morrow.  I 
will  try  to  write  later. 

Naples,  Sunday,  March  4th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

After  all  I  did  not  get  the  letter  off  so  will  continue.  The 
first  night  I  sat  down  to  dinner  next  to  the  Admiral  Jewells 
and  we  had  the  nicest  talk.  They  were  here  only  for  the  night 
and  went  to  Rome  in  the  early  morning.  Then  at  lunch  Mr. 
Stewart  Brown  of  Pittsburgh,  Mrs.  Dr.  Fox's  brother,introduced 
himself  and  while  we  were  talking  who  should  appear  but  Gen- 
eral and  Airs.  Patterson  of  Albany,  and  the  daughters.  I  went 
over  to  speak  to  them  and  they  were  most  cordial,  said  they 
had  come  on  the  Hambourg  with  the  Drexel  Biddies  who  had 
told  them  we  were  here  and  they  were  hoping  to  meet  me. 

We  arranged  to  go  to  the  Opera  last  night.     Othello  was 

given  and  we  got  a  box.     When  we  returned  we  had  a  great 

surprise  in  seeing  a  great  stream  of  red  lava  on  the  side  of 

Vesuvius — they  said  it  is  150  ft.  wide;  the  effect  is  wonderful 

and  uncanny. 

526 


ITALY 

After  two  days  of  warm  rain  we  woke  up  this  a.  m.  to 
find  it  crystal  clear  and  cold  as  Greenland,  so  at  last  Laura 
has  seen  the  beauties  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  It  was  beautiful 
beyond  words,  marred  only  by  a  very  strong  cold  wind.  We 
went  today  to  the  Cathedral  and  after  up  to  Hotel  Bertolini 
for  lunch.  To  get  to  this  Hotel  you  go  through  a  long  tunnel 
and  then  go  up  in  a  Lift  and  there  are  terraces  with  tables 
to  sit  out  of  doors  to  see  the  wonderful  view.  We  now  are 
expecting  to  start  on  Tuesday,  lunch  at  Pompeii  and  drive 
from  there  to  Sorrento  to  spend  the  night. 

I  am  taking  Cooks'  tickets  to  save  trouble  and  there  is  no 
time  limit,  i.  e.,  we  can  stay  as  long  as  we  please  in  any  one 
place.  The  Hallowells  have  gone  this  eve  by  boat  to  Palermo. 
I  wouldn't  have  done  it  for  a  kingdom — the  water  is  in  a  per- 
fect fury. 

We  never  want  for  attention.  Gen.  Patterson  introduced 
a  Mr.  Lard  from  Albany,  who  is  also  going  to  Sicily.  We 
have  our  steamer  trunks  ready  to  go  to  Paris  by  slow  freight 
and  will  leave  our  two  large  trunks  here  and  take  only  small 
luggage  to  Sicily.  They  ask  ^40  a  day  for  automobiles  here 
— it  has  become  a  very  extravagant  place,  and  the  streets  are 
full  of  magnificent  autos  and  women  wear  fine  jewels,  indicat- 
ing plenty  of  money.  With  much  love  for  you  all,  and  always 
wishing  you  were  here,  where  you  would  have  every  comfort 
and  enjoy  the  society  of  lots  of  nice  men. 

Most  affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 


Imperial  Hotel,  Sorrento, 
Tues.,  March  6th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  wonder  if  you  remembered  that  yesterday  was  our  33rd 
wedding  anniversary  and  missed  me  a  little!  I  am  in  a  con- 
tinual state  of  disappointment  that  you  are  not  with  us. 
Yesterday  was  the  most  perfect  day  imaginable.  Blue  sky 
and  sea  and  warm  and  the  views  showed  up  to  perfection. 

527 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

As  I  had  to  spend  the  morning  at  Cooks'  getting  my  tickets 
for  Sicily,  and  doing  a  little  shopping,  I  felt  we  must  accom- 
plish something  in  the  afternoon,  so  I  got  a  good  comfortable 
carriage  at  the  Hotel  and  started  for  the  Virgil  side  of  Naples, 
Pozzuoli,  Cape  Misense  and  Baias.  When  I  was  here  three 
years  ago  they  told  me  the  antique  grotto  at  Posilipo  was 
closed,  but  we  drove  through  it,  turning  to  the  left  from  the 
new  grotto  and  finding  all  my  old  memories  revived.     It  is 


GROTTO  OF  POSILIPO,  NAPLES 


much  higher  and  narrower  than  the  new  one  and  very  impres- 
sive. Beyond  it  you  see  real  Italian  life,  i.  e.,  people  living, 
moving  and  having  their  being  in  the  street,  along  with  pigs, 
donkeys  and  chickens. 

We  went  up  to  Solfatara  and  saw  the  sand  boiling  and 
the  steam  was  pouring  out  of  innumerable  crevices.  The 
town  of  Pozzuoli,  with  its  old  port  of  Caligula,  and  its  villas 

of  Cicero  and  Sallust,  &c.,  &c.,  and  interesting  Roman  remains, 

528 


ITALY 

gateways,  walls,  &c.,  is  delightful — such  air,  and  the  delicious 
spring  smell  is  in  everything,  wild  sweet  alyssum,  yellow  and 
pink  daisies,  thyme  and  lots  of  sweet  flowers.  We  drove  on 
to  Baise  and  past  the  Lucrene  Lake  to  Lake  Avemus,  with  all 
its  legends  and  went  into  the  grotto  of  the  Cumsean  Sybil, 
which  is  now  full  of  water,  and  the  men  carried  us  across  on 
their  backs. 

Part  of  the  original  frescoes  and  mosaics  remain  and  there 
are  wonderfully  large  Roman  bricks  in  the  walls.    We  had  not 


SORRENTO 


time  to  go  to  the  hot  baths  of  the  Roman  Emperors,  where 
the  water  is  heated  by  the  volcano,  but  took  a  drink  of  Fal- 
ernian  wine,  which  must  have  been  better  in  Horace's  time. 
We  sat  awhile  with  Gen.  Patterson  and  family,  before  going 
to  pack,  and  found  they  were  also  coming  to  Pompeii  to-day. 
I  got  to  bed  very  late  as  I  had  to  go  through  the  ordeal  of 
packing  some  small  pieces  to  take  with  us  and  leaving  the 
larger  trunks  at  Naples  and  did  not  sleep  well,  so  to-night  I 
am  very  tired  and  going  to  bed  early. 
34  529 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  started  for  the  station  this  morning  at  what  seemed  a 
long  time  before,  and  it  is  well  we  did,  as  our  horse  fell  and  we 
had  to  wait  while  they  unharnessed  it  and  got  him  on  his 
feet.  He  was  not  properly  shod  and  slipped  all  the  time.  We 
were  pursued  by  boys  offering  us  enormous  bunches  of  violets 
and  camellias  for  i  franc,  and  finally  got  to  the  station  late 
and  had  an  exciting  time  getting  the  baggage  weighed  and 
put  on  the  train. 

The  Pattersons  did  not  come  until  a  later  train,  but  we 
met  at  lunch.  Laura  went  in  to  Pompeii  with  some  people 
we  knew.  A  man  in  the  party  read  the  Latin  inscriptions  very 
easily  and  made  it  thus  more  interesting.  I  did  not  go  as  I 
have  been  twice  and  was  very  tired,  but  we  started  off  in  a 
little  carriage  immediately  after  lunch  for  Sorrento  and  words 
fail  me  to  describe  the  beauty  of  this  coast  in  the  afternoon 
lights  of  such  a  perfect  day  as  this  has'been. 

I  fortunately  had  telegraphed  for  rooms  for  the  people 
after  us  were  turned  away.  We  have  an  enormous  room  on 
the  sea  side  of  the  house,  perched  directly  over  the  water  at 
the  top  of  a  high  cliff.  The  pink  lights  on  the  snow  mountains 
and  the  blue  of  sky  and  water,  you  must  imagine. 

The  Tarantella  is  now  being  danced  down  stairs  and  Laura 
is  seeing  it,  sitting  w^ith  the  Stewart  Browns  of  Pittsburgh. 
If  it  is  very  smooth  to-morrow  I  shall  be  tempted  to  go  over  to 
Capri  as  it  can  be  very  disagreeable  when  rough  and  thus 
it  will  not  have  to  be  missed  in  case  the  weather  is  not 
propitious  on  our  return  from  Sicily.  The  Pattersons  go  to 
Rome  on  their  return  from  P^estum. 

I  had  a  very  nice  letter  from  Mrs.  Fowler;  they  did  not 
get  into  the  Grand  Hotel  at  Rome,  but  into  the  Excelsior. 
She  said  she  missed  me  all  the  time  and  was  always  expecting 
to  meet  me.  I  certainly  miss  her  very  much.  I  think  I  must 
spend  a  few  days  at  Taormina  to  rest,  as  we  led  rather  a 
strenuous  life  at  Naples. 


530 


ITALY 

Amalfi,  March  7th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  take  this  up  at  bedtime,  having  spent  an  hour  playing 
bridge  with  Gen.  Patterson's  wife  and  daughter  and  another 
lady  and  then  going  out  to  see  the  view  by  full  moon.  I 
finished  writing  last  night  at  bedtime.  We  walked  around  the 
town  all  morning  and  then  started  in  a  nice  double  carriage 
for  this  place.  I  expected  the  drive  to  be  beautiful,  but  it  was 
more  than  I  imagined  and  to  think  that  in  addition  to  the 
beauty  man  has  done  nothing  to  disfigure  it,  as  in  our  country. 


HOTEL  DES  CAPUCHINES,  AMALFI 

We  have  had  absolutely  perfect  weather,  so  you  can  im- 
agine the  sunset  lights  on  the  w^onderful  mountains  and  the 
sea.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  it  and  no  picture  I  have  ever 
seen  can  do  justice  to  it.  I  have  noticed  the  change  in  type 
of  features  in  the  people  since  leaving  Naples.  They  are 
beginning  to  look  like  the  Sicilians,  darker  and  thinner  and 
paler  than  the  Neapolitans,  who  are  of  a  more  robust  type. 

We  found  ourselves  put  out  on  the  main  street  and  we  had 
to  climb  up  270  steps.  There  were  chairs,  but  I  preferred  to 
climb,  but  it  was  pretty  hard,  only  at  every  moment  I  had  to 

531 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

stop  to  look;  everything  white  plaster  and  showing  off  the 
greenery  to  the  greatest  advantage.  When  I  got  to  the  top 
I  found  Gen.  Patterson.  His  family  had  gone  to  Ravello  for 
the  afternoon  but  got  back  at  dinner  time  and  we  sat  next  to 
them  at  dinner  and  on  the  other  side  a  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Van 
Anden  of  New  York,  friends  of  theirs. 

They  go  on  to  Sorrento  and  we  take  in  Ravello  as  a  sort 
of  side  trip  to  La  Cava  and  Psestum.  The  next  two  days 
will  be  hard,  as  we  have  to  take  a  midnight  train  from  La  Cava 
to  Messina  after  a  hard  trip  to  Paestum.  We  hope  to  spend 
three  days  at  least  at  Taormina — it  seems  necessary  after  a 
few  days  of  travel  to  rest. 

La  Cava,  Friday,  March  9th. 
After  our  long  trip  from  Amalfi  by  the  way  of  Ravello  I 
was  too  tired  to  write  last  night,  as  we  had  to  get  up  early  to 


RAVELLO 


make  the  trip  to  Paestum.  We  preferred  to  do  the  two  with- 
out returning  to  Amalfi  for  lunch,  which  would  have  meant 
climbing  up  those  awful  stairs  again  only  for  lunch,  so  we  took 
our  luggage  and  climbed  a  high  hill  to  Ravello  for  lunch. 

532 


ITALY 

If  ever  there  was  a  spot  like  heaven  it  is  Ravello !  The  view 
was  just  as  beautiful  as  Amalfi  and  we  found  a  perfect  Hotel, 
Pension,  where  the  food  was  perfection  and  where  the  most 
perfect  cleanliness  prevailed.  The  dining  and  bed  rooms 
opened  on  a  terrace  garden  where  daffodils,  frisia  and 
oranges  and  lemons  were  everywhere,  and  such  a  view. 
I  cannot  imagine  a  more  ideal  place  for  tired  nerves  and 
absolute  comfort. 

The  object  of  this  drive  is  to  see  the  wonderful  mosaic 
pulpit  with  supporting  columns  resting  on  lions,  also  the  pal- 
ace of  the  Rufalo  family,  which  has  been  built  around  an  an- 
cient Moorish  palace  and  has  a  wonderful  terrace  and  view 
and  gardens.  I  hope  sometime  to  go  there  and  stay  awhile. 
It  is  also  the  only  reasonable  place  I  have  seen. 

Taormina,  Alarch  ii,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  left  La  Cava  night  before  last  and  posted  a  letter  with- 
out signing  it,  but  I  knew  it  would  be  two  days  before  I  could 
write  again.  We  are  still  without  any  letters  from  you  and 
hope  each  day  to  get  some,  as  I  telegraphed  to  Turner  in 
Naples  to  send  any  letters  that  he  might  have  received  to 
Taormina. 

I  think  I  wrote  you  about  Ravello  and  La  Cava  and  meet- 
ing the  Pattersons  at  Amalfi  and  Van  Andens  from  Brooklyn, 
and  our  game  of  bridge  at  Amalfi.  I  felt  rather  alone  when 
we  drove  all  the  morning  from  Amalfi,  but  the  next  day  we 
took  the  early  train  from  La  Cava  to  Psestum.  The  first 
people  we  met  were  a  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brown  from  Worcester 
and  she  was  a  Miss  Hacker  and  stays  with  her  aunt  Mrs. 
Charles  Hacker,  across  the  square  from  us.  A/[r.  Brown  was 
great  fun  and  he  and  Laura  cracked  jokes  and  made  fun 
about  "pastum"  and  "postum",  so  we  had  a  delightful  day. 

It  took  us  nearly  three  hours  to  get  to  Psestum,  then  we 
walked  through  an  ancient  gate  of  the  Siren  and  there  were 
the  temples   on  the  plain   between  mountains   and  sea,  the 

533 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

most  complete,  the  temple  of  Neptune,  is  almost  perfect,  with 
inner  and  outer  rows  of  columns,  Doric,  the  earliest  Greek, 
tapering  very  much  to  the  top.  They  were  once  covered  with 
stucco  and  painted.  I  liked  the  smallest  of  all  the  best, 
Temple  of  Ceres  or  Apollo,  as  it  stood  a  little  higher  and  one 
front  was  very  fine.  The  third  was  a  basilica;  the  effect  is 
very  fine  as  you  see  the  blue  sea  from  one  side,  as  a  back- 
ground, and  the  mountains  from  the  other.     We  had  taken 


AT  P^STUM 


our  lunch  from  La  Cava  in  white  bags  and  had  a  picnic  on 
the  altar  of  the  Basilica  and  we  all  became  very  friendly. 
The  Browns  came  the  next  night  from  Naples  to  Palermo 
and  we  took  the  night  train  from  La  Cava  by  Salerno  to 
Messina. 

After  six  hours  in  train  to  Psestum  you  can  imagine  we 
did  not  look  forward  with  much  eagerness  to  an  all-night  ride, 
but  I  was  determined  not  to  go  back  to  Naples  to  start.  So 
we  went  off  alone  with  Cook  tickets  and  in  the  dark,  leaving 
a  very  jolly  crowd  at  the  table  d'hote.  Much  to  our  amuse- 
ment we  were  the  only  passengers  on  the  old  fashioned  Ameri- 

534 


ITALY 

can  sleeping  car  and  had  an  Italian  porter  who  spoke  English 
and  gave  us  our  coffee  and  tea  in  the  morning  before  we  got 
to  the  boat. 

I  was  rather  alarmed  at  the  situation,  realizing  that  we 
were  completely  at  the  mercy  of  the  porter,  but  I  put  all  my 
valuables  in  the  bed  with  me,  so  I  would  be  disturbed  by  any 
effort  on  his  part  to  find  them.  I  did  not  sleep  much,  but 
looked  out  of  the  window,  trying  to  see  Calabria.     Some  one 


HOTEL  TIMEO,  TAORMINA 


said  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen,  but  I  found  splendid  moun- 
tain scenery,  the  railroad  high  above  the  coast. 

At  8.30  we  got  out  a  little  north  of  Reggio  and  went  across 
to  Messina,  a  very  pleasant  ride  of  twenty  minutes  across  the 
straits.  The  Palermo  car  is  put  on  the  boat  and  goes  right  on 
to  Palermo.  We  asked  the  porter  if  the  train  usually  goes 
with  so  few.  He  said  the  nights  the  fast  express  leaves  Naples 
at  1 1  every  one  goes  on  that. 

We  preferred  leaving  La  Cava  at  8.33,  rather  than  at  one 
in  the  morning.  It  was  so  warm  we  sat  on  the  upper  deck 
without  extra  wraps,  like  an  ordinary  summer  day  at  James- 

535 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

town.  The  drive  up  to  Taormlna  from  the  railway  was  very 
warm  and  we  found  people  wearing  linen  dresses  and  straw 
hats.  At  the  Timeo  hotel  we  had  to  take  an  unattractive 
room  to  sleep  in  last  night  but  to-day  moved  in  to  a  room  next 
to  it  with  two  balconies  looking  out  on  the  sea  and  Mt.  ^tna. 
I  am  saturated  with  the  beauty,  it  is  on  all  sides.  This  hotel 
has  gardens  on  three  stories  and  terraces  with  columns,  roses 
in  profusion,  gilly  flowers,  mignonette,  orange  blossoms,  acacia 


:^ 


SOLFATARA, NEAR  NAPLES 


and  dozens  of  other  flowers  growling  in  great  flaring  earthen 
pots  along  the  edge  of  the  terraces  with  orange  trees  and  palms, 
and  we  sit  out  without  wraps  and  have  to  seek  the  shade,  the 
sun  is  so  hot. 

Mt.  ^tna  was  wonderful  this  morning — there  was  a  line 
of  light  at  the  foot  of  the  snow  which  gave  it  the  effect  of  float- 
ing in  the  air.  I  got  up  late  this  a.  m.  and  spent  the  rest  of 
the  morning  moving. 

At  four  o'clock  I  thought  we  would  go  to  the  Wood's 
studio,  w^here  George  and  Susie  spoke  of  going  and  to  whom  a 

536 


ITALY 

number  of  people  had  told  me  to  be  sure  to  pay  a  visit.  Mr. 
Wood  opened  the  door  and  I  told  him  I  had  come  on  the 
strength  of  mutual  friends.  He  made  us  most  welcome. 
Louise  Wood  then  introduced  herself,  so  I  felt  quite  at  home. 
A  Miss  Kimball  sang  delightfully,  with  a  very  cultivated 
voice,  and  Admiral  Bleecker  did  some  stunts  with  a  marion- 
ette. We  met  a  very  handsome  young  Italian  who  reminded 
me  of  Clifford. 

The  rooms  were  full  of  interesting  things  and  flowers  and 
out  of  the  side  towards  the  sea  a  beautiful  terrace  of  white 


FROM  THE  GREEK  THEATRE,  TAORMINA 


cement  with  seats  all  around  it,  and  such  a  view!  Yesterday 
we  went  over  to  the  Domenico  convent  hotel  to  see  about 
rooms,  not  being  sure  we  would  stay  here  and  found  and  saw 
the  Coles.  They  thought  the  sleeping  car  trip  down  here 
terrible — they  came  the  night  we  arrived  at  Naples.  I  am 
now  torn  by  a  desire  to  go  up  to  Mola,  which  looks  about  a 
mile  up  in  the  air  from  here;  there  is  a  village  there,  but  it 
doesn't  look  humanly  possible  to  get  there.  Even  a  donkey 
can  go  only  two-thirds  of  the  way. 

I  wish  you  could  see  us  here  and  how  perfectly  beautiful 
and  comfortable  it  is  and  altho  we  see  snow  on  ^tna,  we  are 

537 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

warm  as  a  fine  September  day,  without  a  cold  wind,  and  yet 
the  air  is  very  invigorating.  I  felt  as  if  we  must  have  a  rest 
here  after  so  much  travel  and  so  we  will  not  leave  for  Syracuse 
before  Friday.  I  wanted  to  make  a  pension  arrangement  for 
a  week  here,  but  they  would  not  do  it. 

By  this  time  you  must  have  got  our  Azores  letters  and  the 
long  wait  is  over,  but  we  are  still  without  news  of  you.  I  do 
hope  you  are  all  well  and  my  only  regret  is  that  you  are  not 
with  us. 

With  much  love  to  all  of  you  and  to  our  intimate  friends. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

Taormina,  March  nth,  1906. 
Dear  Uncle  Frank, 

Just  a  line  or  two  to  tell  you  we  are  getting  along  splen- 
didly and  only  spending  a  few  centesemi  per  day  {?).  This 
is  Auntie's  60th  birthday  but  as  I  didn't  know  in  time  to  give 
her  "twenty-one"  slaps  this  morning,  I  feel  it  my  duty  to 
tell  some  good  jokes  on  her. 

If  you  had  stood  with  me  in  the  grotto  of  the  Cumsean 
Sybil  on  one  side  of  the  River  Styx  and  watched  Aunt  Mary 
cross  over  to  the  other  side  on  the  back  of  a  small  skinny 
Italian,  you  would  have  appreciated  how  perfectly  ludicrous 
it  was,  as  the  Italian  gentlemen  and  I  who  stood  on  the  banks 
and  watched  did.  It  was  killing.  No  one  could  thoroughly 
realize  how  funny  it  was  unless  they  had  seen  it,  too,  as  writing 
about  it  isn't  at  all  easy. 

It  was  dark  in  the  cave  except  for  a  torch  and  all  that  could 
be  seen  of  Auntie  was  a  pair  of  feet  sticking  straight  out  back, 
but  you  could  hear  her  more  plainly.  Now,  of  course,  the  man 
on  the  banks  got  the  same  lovely  view  of  me,  but  I  don't  tell 
about  that  part. 

I  notice  in  Auntie's  letter  that  she  refers  to  valuables  in 
the  sleeping  car.  Never  shall  I  forget  that  experience.  I  had 
just  gotten  out  of  my  clothes  and  was  settling  down  to  sleep 
when  Auntie  called  to  me  in  a  hoarse  whisper.     I  looked  out 

538 


ITALY 

and  Auntie  with  her  head  enclosed  by  curtains  said  in  the 
most  awe-inspiring  tones,  "Laura,  where  are  your  valuables?" 
Scared,  I  turned  purple!  Her  tone  implied  cutthroats, 
brigands  and  murderers  of  all  sorts. 

Well,  my  words  of  wisdom  have  come  to  an  end.  This 
doesn't  sound  a  bit  funny  to  read  but  Auntie  and  I  have  had 
many  a  good  laugh  over  these  different  things. 

Sicily  is  ideal — there  can't  be  anything  more  beautiful. 
And  this  hotel  is  very  good,  too. 

Give  my  love  to  Sam  and  Clifford  and  keep  lots  for  yourself 

Aff.,  Laura  Clifford. 

Grand  Hotel  Villa  Politi, 

Siracusa,  March  17th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  were  so  disappointed  to  leave  Taormina  without  getting 
any  mail,  a  month  to-day  since  we  left  and  we  have  not  had 
one  letter!  We  now  hope  they  will  meet  us  at  Palermo. 
Taormina  proved  delightful.  We  had  a  very  comfortable 
room  with  two  balconies,  on  the  sunny  side  and  the  food  was 
excellent.  Miss  Wood  was  very  nice — entertained  us  at  tea. 
The  Misses  Trowbridge,  who  came  over  on  the  ship,  and  their 
aunt,  were  very  friendly  and  we  played  bridge  one  night.  They 
were  only  there  two  days  and  then  came  on  here.  We  enjoyed 
our  rest  of  six  days  and  came  here  yesterday,  leaving  at  eleven 
and  arriving  here  at  a  little  after  two. 

This  hotel  is  quite  a  little  distance  out  of  the  town  and  over 
wonderful  quarries,  with  beautiful  flower  gardens  on  top  and 
also  way  down  inside  where  orange  trees  seem  to  have  no 
trouble  in  growing.  We  met  such  a  funny  woman  in  the  train. 
I  thought  she  was  English  but  she  turned  out  to  be  an  Ameri- 
can, a  Bostonian,  who  lives  in  Rome,  an  amusing  character 
named  Miss  Carey.  We  had  our  lunch  together  and  the  time 
passed  quickly. 

No  one  we  know  is  here  and  we  go  on  to-morrow  to  Gir- 
genti,  where  we  shall  be  very  uncomfortable  but  must  see 

539 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

the  temples.  We  went  yesterday  to  see  the  Greek  Theatre, 
Roman  Amphitheatre  and  the  church  where  St.  Paul  spent 
three  days  on  his  way  to  Rome.  The  perfect  weather  still 
continues,  but  the  dust  is  very  disagreeable.  The  almond 
trees  are  in  full  leaf,  the  blossoms  being  over,  and  are  of  a 
lovely  tender  green;  the  olive  trees  are  images  of  distress,  so 
old  and  twisted  are  they. 

On  the  way  here  near  Aci  Castello  we  saw  the  great  lava 
beds  from  Mt.  ^tna,  a  most  curious  formation,  and  the  Fara- 


THE  CATHEDRAL,  SYRACUSE 

glioni,  the  great  rocks  thrown  by  Polyphemus,  a  Cyclops, 
after  Hercules. 

The  little  insects  which  frequent  this  part  of  the  world  are 
giving  Laura  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  and  me  a  little,  but  that 
little  is  too  much. 

This  afternoon  we  drove  out  to  Fort  Euryalus,  where  the 
Athenians  were  defeated  in  their  attack  on  the  Syracusans. 
Clifford  will  remember  it  and  the  remains,  the  walls  Diony- 
sius  built,  but  he  did  not  see  this  hotel  which  is  charming. 
The  dining  room   is  new  and  all  in  white  plaster  with  fine 

540 


ITALY 

Corinthian  columns,  much  more  beautiful  than  the  Bellevue- 
Stratford  room,  and  lovely  flowers  on  the  tables,  music  play- 
ing outside  in  the  garden,  where  I  should  think  it  was 
rather  cold. 

I  think  I  shall  send  a  cable  from  Palermo,  if  I  don't  get 
any  letters  there,  because  I  left  exact  directions  with  Turner 
how  to  send  our  mail.  I  am  wondering  if  we  will  have  a  good 
night  to  cross  to  Naples,  they  tell  awful  tales  about  the  cross- 
ing in  moderately  good  weather  even.  I  don't  think  I  would 
have  courage  to  go  on  a  bad  night.  We  expect  to  be  back  in 
Naples  by  the  night  of  the  24th  of  March  and  will  go  the  next 
day  to  Rome.  It  seems  a  long  time  since  I  saw  you  all.  With 
much  love  and  wishing  for  you  all  the  time. 

Your  affectionate,  M.  D.  R. 

Grand  Hotel  Des  Palmes,  Palermo, 

March  21st,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  did  not  write  you  from  Girgenti  as  we  stayed  not  quite 
24  hours,  finding  the  hotel  very  dirty,  food  bad  and  service 
worse,  although  we  were  carried  in  a  fine  automobile  from  the 
station  to  the  hotel.  We  made  the  acquaintance  of  the  people 
who  I  supposed  were  the  Boston  Higginsons  and  we  noticed 
at  Taormina.  They  felt  like  ourselves,  that  the  dirt  was  un- 
bearable and  we  all  came  on  here  in  the  2  o'clock  train  arriving 
at  7.30  in  time  for  dinner. 

We  went  out  by  nine  o'clock  that  morning  at  Girgenti  to 
see  the  temples  and  were  much  more  impressed  by  them  than 
those  at  Psestum.  The  present  town  of  Girgenti,  the  old 
Agrigentum  of  the  Romans  is  w^here  the  Acropolis  was  and  is 
very  high  and  looks  as  if  it  had  grown  there,  so  admirably  does 
it  tone  in  with  the  grey  of  the  mountains.  Almost  half  way 
down  to  the  sea  and  on  high  plateaus  are  the  temples,  first  of 
Juno,  with  only  a  few  columns  standing,  then  Concordia, 
almost  complete,  except  that  all  decorations  of  stucco  and 
carving  have  disappeared  with  time.    Then  Jupiter,  wrecked 

541 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

by  an  earthquake  and  colossal.  The  great  columns  appeared 
to  me  as  large  or  larger  than  the  largest  Egyptian  ones  and 
there  were  giant  caryatides  upholding  the  pediment  all  the 
way  around  the  inside,  as  large  as  the  giant  recumbent 
Rameses. 

It  must  have  been  something  too  wonderful  for  the  modern 
mind  to  comprehend.  There  are  excursions  to  Segesta  and 
Salinuntum   or   some   such   name,   where   there   are   colossal 


THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  PALKRMii 


ruins,  but  I  imagine  the  dirt  and  discomfort  would  be 
too  great  for  us.  We  were  glad  to  get  into  a  comfortable 
hotel   again. 

In  the  morning  visited  the  cathedral  and  the  royal  palace, 
where  the  wonderful  Capella  Palatina  is,  completely  lined 
with  mosaic  and  a  roof  of  Moorish  carving.  In  the  afternoon 
we  took  a  carriage  for  the  whole  afternoon  to  go  to  Monreale. 
On  the  way  out  numerous  automobiles  passed  us  at  frightful 
speed,  and  at  the  bottom  of  the  ascent  to  the  monastery  we 
were  informed  that  carriages  could  go  no  farther  as  there  was 

to  be  a  trial  race. 

542 


ITALY 

We  found  the  Higginsons  with  their  lady  friend  and  a  Mr. 
Cramer  who  crossed  on  the  Celtic  with  us,  in  the  same  fix; 
as  the  dust  was  frightful  we  decided  to  go  on  in  the  trolley, 
which  we  did  very  comfortably  and  saw  the  church  and  clois- 
ters at  our  ease.  I  suppose  nothing  exists  elsewhere  to  be 
compared  to  the  mosaics  of  the  church  and  the  columns  of 
the  cloisters. 

On  our  way  back  we  stopped  at  the  Villa  Tasca  and  saw 
an  ideal  garden  of  very  rare  trees  with  a  little  temple  having 
a  most  beautiful  view  of  the  mountains  back  of  the  city.  We 
met  the  Spencer  Biddies  also  at  the  cathedral,  who  are  stay- 
ing at  the  Villa  Hygeia,  about  two  miles  out  on  the  shore  the 
other  side  of  the  city.  This  hotel  has  a  beautiful  large  garden 
which  keeps  the  rooms  quiet  and  although  it  is  a  very  noisy 
city  we  hear  none  of  it. 

To-night  we  go  on  an  Italian  steamer  to  Naples  and  will 
go  at  once  across  to  Capri  for  over  one  night  and  then  another 
night  in  Naples  and  the  next  day  to  Rome,  making  us  arrive 
in  Rome  March  24th.  Not  a  line  have  we  had  and  our  dis- 
appointment was  great,  for  we  cannot  understand  what  it 
means.  Perhaps  now  we  will  find  something  in  Naples  at 
Turner's.    We  must  get  off,  so  I  will  finish  this  in  Capri. 


Capri,  Thurs.  eve.,  March  22,  1906. 
Here  we  are  in  Capri  and  very  tired.  We  got  on  a  boat  of 
the  Italian  line  at  7.33,  for  Naples,  having  partaken  of  an 
early  dinner  and  had  a  talk  with  Mr.  Higginson  and  Mr. 
Cramer.  Fortunately  the  weather  was  quiet  and  it  had  tried 
to  rain  but  there  was  a  good  deal  of  motion  soon  after  we 
started  and  we  feared  we  were  going  to  be  ill,  so  went  quickly 
to  tea.  I  had  had  to  pay  17  frcs.  extra  to  keep  the  stateroom 
to  ourselves  as  there  was  a  third  berth.  We  prevented  dis- 
agreeable consequences  by  retiring  early  and  had  a  very  com- 
fortable night  and  were  dressed  at  seven  when  the  boat  landed. 
A  man  called  out  Capri  and  I  said  yes  and  in  a  minute  our 

543 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

luggage  was  in  a  small  boat  and  in  five  more  we  were  on  the 
Capri  boat  which  we  were  told  would  go  at  8,  but  it  went  over 
to  St.  Lucia  and  filled  up  and  left  at  9. 

We  stopped  at  Sorrento  and  a  lot  of  people  came  on  and 
then  to  Capri.  The  weather  was  not  perfectly  clear  but  still 
very  beautiful,  and  we  were  glad  to  get  into  this  clean  beauti- 
ful Hotel  Luisisana.    We  had  to  wait  until  after  lunch  for  a 


CAPRI 


room  and  we  were  very  tired.  There  has  been  a  furious  east 
wind  all  day  and  we  felt  it  colder  than  Sicily,  but  we  went  for 
a  little  walk.  After  we  got  into  our  room  and  had  our  things 
put  in,  we  drove  up  to  Anacapri  and  called  on  Mrs.  Bodine, 
and  I  have  no  words  to  tell  you  about  the  villa  where  she  lives. 
A  doctor  owns  it  and  has  built  it  on  old  Roman  foundation 
walls.  Then  there  was  an  old  church,  which  he  turned  into  a 
sort  of  tea  and  smoking  room,  and  has  the  choir  stalls. 
The  garden  and  the  pergola  and  the  corridors  of  white  with 
openings  marked  by  twisted  columns  which  he  had  found  right 
in  the  ground,  and  Amphorae,  pieces  of  marbles  out  of  which 
he  made  floors. 

544 


ITALY 

Nothing  I  can  say  can  give  you  any  idea  of  the  wonderful 
beauty  of  this  villa  and  garden  and  the  views.  This  man  also 
owns  the  Barbarossa  castle,  some  distance  above  it  and  an  old 
Roman  tower.  He  has  built  into  the  walls  bits  of  carving 
and  inscriptions.  The  furniture  is  perfect  and  you  would 
think  it  impossible  to  be  comfortable  in  a  house  all  white  tiles 
and  white  marble,  but  a  few  stoves  seemed  to  furnish  all 
necessary  heat.    Mrs.  B.  offered  us  tea  and  her  young  son  and 


AT  CAPRI 


daughter  came  in.    The  son  just  Laura's  age  and  the  daughter 
older. 

We  arranged  to  drive  up  in  the  morning  and  climb  up  to 
Barbarossa  castle,  but  I  think  I  shall  back  out  and  rest  here. 
We  had  the  young  people  to  lunch  and  although  it  was  blow- 
ing hard  came  away  in  the  afternoon  boat.  I  was  dreadfully 
ill  and  went  right  to  bed.  We  go  on  to  Rome  tomorrow  after- 
noon. With  much  love  for  all  of  you  and  still  hoping  to  get 
letters  (to-day  23  rd). 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 


35  545 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Savoy  Hotel,  Rome, 
Sunday,  March  25th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

Here  we  are  in  Rome,  but  not  settled.  I  posted  my  last 
letter  on  our  arrival  at  Naples.  I  have  not  yet  got  over  that 
dreadful  trip  from  Capri,  day  before  yesterday.  I  thought  I 
should  die  but  Laura  was  not  sick  at  all.  Fortunately  there 
were  nice  people  on  deck,  she  could  stay  with  them.  I  was 
obliged  to  retire  in  disgrace.  Glad  indeed  was  I  to  get  into  a 
comfortable  room  and  bed  for  I  was  wet  to  the  skin  where 
the  water  had  burst  through  a  partly  open  window  in  the  cabin, 
all  over  me.  A  good  night's  rest  enabled  me  to  go  out  yester- 
day morning  to  the  Bankers. 

There  we  found  Clifford's  and  Fanny's  letters,  the  others 
having  been  sent  to  Palermo  to  care  of  Cook,  but  as  Cook  had 
no  office  in  Palermo  I  did  not  get  them  and  have  now  written 
to  the  Post  Office  there  to  send  them  here.  We  had  a  weary 
ride  from  Naples  here,  going  to  the  station  an  hour  before  the 
train  was  to  start  and  having  a  perfect  fight  to  get  a  seat  in  a 
first-class  carriage. 

When  we  arrived  at  Rome  at  9  p.  m.  there  was  no  omnibus 
of  the  Palace  Hotel,  which  I  had  written  and  telegraphed  to, 
and  when  I  got  there  in  a  carriage  they  said  they  hadn't  a 
vacant  room,  but  would  get  one  in  the  next  hotel.  We  had  a 
good  supper  there  and  came  up  to  this  hotel  until  Tuesday, 
when  we  can  have  a  room  and  bath  at  20  frcs.  a  day.  The  room 
we  have  here  is  on  the  6th  floor  and  the  elevator  will  only  take 
passengers  up  and  not  down  and  we  have  to  walk  down  every 
time  and  also  there  is  a  noisy  trolley  in  front. 

I  went  over  to  the  Palace  this  morning  to  make  sure  of  a 
room  and  saw  the  one  we  can  have  Tuesday.  Rome  is  per- 
fectly full,  500  hotels  and  pensions  jammed  and  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  get  shelter.  After  we  said  good-bye  to  the 
Warrens  we  took  a  cab  and  went  to  the  Pantheon,  Ara  Coeli 
and  the  Capitol.  In  between  it  hailed  and  rained  and  sun 
shone,  but  it  is  distinctly  cold.     We  went  to  the  Excelsior  to 

546 


ITALY 

5  o'clock  tea  as  Mrs.  W.  said  it  was  the  thing  to  do  and  I  had 
to  warm  up.  It  was  a  great  sight.  An  enormous  room  filled 
with  small  tables  set  out  with  flowers,  lovely  china  and  cakes 
of  all  kinds,  and  fine  music  and  people  very  much  dressed. 

Rome,  March  26th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  found  a  letter  from  you  to-day  at  Lebasti's  the  first 
one.  We  went  about  in  that  neighborhood  for  awhile  and 
after  lunch  went  to  the  Borghese  gallery  and  the  garden. 
After,  I  went  to  call  at  the  Edwards'  and  sent  in  the  letter — 
only  he  was  at  home,  Mrs.  E.  and  daughter  being  out.  The 
entrance  is  through  a  garden  and  the  parlor  was  a  very  hand- 
some room  with  beautiful  furniture  but  not  palatial. 

Now  as  to  the  going  home  I  have  special  reasons  for  not 
going  home  on  the  Celtic,  which  you  will  appreciate  when  I 
tell  you.  I  cannot  think  you  mean  for  me  to  come  so  soon  as 
May  4th,  for  it  means  giving  up  Paris  and  London.  I  expected 
to  leave  here  April  4th  and  it  will  take  at  least  10  days  to 
make  any  kind  of  a  trip  through  the  Hill  cities  to  Florence, 
then  a  week  there  and  on  to  Venice,  17  days  and  it  will  take 
some  days  to  get  to  Paris. 

We  are  still  here  as  the  Palace  Hotel  now  says  they  will 
take  us  in  Wednesday.  Rome  is  discouraging.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  get  any  idea  of  it  in  one  visit.  Hoping  you  are  all  well 
and  you  will  be  generous  and  not  insist  on  my  coming  so  soon. 

Aflfectionately  yours,  M.  D.  R. 

Palace  Hotel, 
Rome,  April  ist,  1906. 
Dear  Frank  and  Boys, 

It  is  so  very  cold  here  just  now  it  is  hard  to  think  it  can  be 
April  1st.  After  summer  weather  in  Sicily  we  have  struck  a 
cold  wave  which  is  pervading  all  Europe  and  we  find  riding 
about  in  the  little  open  carriages  cold  work  and  think  we  are 

547 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

fortunate  to  be  in  this  comfortable  hotel  where  we  have  steam 
heat  in  our  room. 

We  are  delighted  to  get  a  batch  of  letters  from  the  three 
of  you.  Yours  were  of  a  more  cheerful  tone  than  the  first 
ones. 

I  think  I  posted  my  last  letter  on  Tuesday  last,  while  at 
the  Savoy.  That  night  the  Browns  from  Worcester  (she  was 
Miss  Hacker)  and  we  spent  the  evening  together  very  agree- 
ably.    Wednesday  morning  we  went  to  the  Rag  Fair  in  the 


CAMPO   DI  FIORI,"  RO.MI-: 


"Campo  di  Fiori"  and  found  the  sun  very  hot,  went  to  a  lec- 
ture by  Prof.  Reynault  at  the  Palatine  Hill,  where  we  tramped 
around  with  him  for  two  hours,  learning  much  more  than 
would  have  been  possible  any  other  way,  and  having  fine 
views  of  the  seven  hills. 

We  arranged  to  go  the  next  day  to  St.  Paul's  out  on  the 
Appian  and  Ostensian  ways,  to  spend  the  day,  but  unfortu- 
nately it  rained  and  it  was  called  off.  It  gave  us  an  early 
start  and  we  took  advantage  of  it  to  spend  a  long  morning  at 
the  Vatican.     It  is  quite  wonderful  what  we  have  seen  in  a 

548 


ITALY 


week,  and  as  Laura  did  not  seem  to  get  too  tired  we  have 
kept  right  on  and  have  seen  all  the  great  galleries  and  some  of 
the  Palaces  and  all  the  ruins,  except  outside. 

I  fear  we  cannot  go  to  Tivoli  if  we  leave  on  Thursday,  but 
unless  this  cold  spell  comes  to  an  end  it  would  not  be  wise  to 
go.  Yesterday  morning  we  went  to  the  Colonna,  Corsini  and 
Rospigliosi  Palaces,  lunched  at  the  Tea  rooms  in  Piazza  di 
Spagni,  did  a  little  shopping  and  came  back  here  in  time  to 
dress  and  go  to  the  Edwards'  Tea,  which  they  left  a  card  for. 


FOUNTAIN  OF  TREVI,  ROME 


Laura  met  a  Miss  Conrad  from  Washington  and  then  we  went 
to  the  table  and  had  a  cup  of  chocolate.  I  was  glad  to  see 
how  they  entertain  here. 

We  see  a  great  deal  of  the  Jewells  and  last  night  went  to 
the  Coliseum  together  to  see  it  illuminated  with  Bengal  lights, 
and  found  it  a  very  impressive  sight  and  there  was  a  very 
fine  band  playing.  I  would  rather  see  it  however  by  the  full 
moon. 

The  Jewells  have  invited  us  to  go  with  them  to  tea  at  the 
Excelsior  and  we  will  go.      It  is  quite  a  function — one  sees 

549 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

everybody.  Mr.  Lanciani  wrote  a  very  nice  note  saying  his 
Father  and  A'lother  were  in  Naples  and  would  be  sorry  to 
miss  us.  The  Jewells  leave  here  Thursday  for  Naples  and  sail 
home  a  week  from  Friday.  Laura  seems  to  be  in  fine  condi- 
tion and  enjoys  the  food  so  much  and  sleeps  well. 

Of  course  while  we  have  worked  hard  in  the  day  times  we 
have  had  no  excitement  at  night,  spending  our  evenings 
quietly  in  the  Hotel.  Rome  is  much  changed  even  since  three 
years.  They  have  made  a  tunnel  under  the  Quirinal  to  avoid 
a  long  detour,  and  it  is  lined  with  shining  white  tiles.  The 
ruins  are  not  as  picturesque  as  formerly,  as  they  are  propping 
them  up  with  new  masonry  and  picking  out  ferns  and  growth 
of  any  kind.  They  are  now  going  to  pull  down  a  convent  on 
top  of  the  Palatine  and  some  beautiful  trees,  to  dig  out  the 
palace  of  Augustus. 

We  have  not  seen  any  of  the  Royal  family — they  say  the 
young  king  and  queen  are  not  popular  because  they  behave 
too  well  and  do  not  cause  any  scandal — they  are  bourgeois. 
They  went  to  see  Buffalo  Bill  and  got  so  excited  they  stood  up 
and  screamed  at  one  part  of  the  performance.  We  were  sorry 
we  did  not  know  of  a  gala  performance  at  the  Opera,  with 
king  and  queen  present,  last  Tuesday  night. 

The  streets  are  full  of  splendid  autos,  all  with  limousine 
bodies.     I  am  envious  all  the  time. 

I  am  writing  to  a  hotel  in  Florence  recommended  by  the 
Jewells,  and  where  the  Caseys  are  staying — Anglo-American. 
People  think  we  were  very  smart  to  get  in  here. 

I  have  not  got  Countess  Adelmann's  letter — had  planned 
to  go  by  Munich  via  Botzen  and  Innsbruck  from  Venice,  but 
shall  wait  to  get  your  letters  at  Florence  or  Venice  in  answer 
to  my  question  before. 

I  must  post  this  to-night.  My  best  love  to  all  of  you  and 
hoping  you  are  all  well  and  will  write  often. 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 


550 


ITALY 

Palace  Hotel,  Rome, 

April  3rd,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

Your  8th  and  9th  letters  came  yesterday  and  we  found  them 
on  our  return  from  a  hard  day's  sightseeing.  We  spent  the 
morning  at  St.  Peter's  going  around  it  carefully  from  end  to 
end  and  into  the  Sacristy,  where  we  saw  wonderful  embroid- 
eries and  all  the  silver  gilt  candlesticks,  &c.,  wrought  by 
Benvenuto  Cellini  and  used  only  on  high  holidays,  also  the 
fragments  of  Malazzo  di  Fiorli's  frescoes  from  the  ancient 
basilica  underneath. 

In  the  afternoon  we  started  out  again  and  went  to  the 
Coliseum,  roaming  through  the  great  arches  at  the  back  where 


THE  .Ai-Pi-AN   WAY,  RU-ME 


one  gets  a  more  adequate  idea  of  its  size  than  from  the  centre, 
then  to  the  Baths  of  Titus  and  the  golden  house  of  Nero,  the 
former  on  top  of  the  latter,  and  then  to  San  Clement's  which  is 
considered  to  give  one  the  best  idea  of  the  early  Christian 
church.  I  thought  it  just  like  a  Jewish  synagogue,  with  a 
marble  fence  around  a  middle  place  with  beautiful  pierced 
places  (screens)  in  marble  and  lots  of  old  mosaic.  The  read- 
ing desks  were  of  plain  marble  supported  by  columns  and  as 
Jewish  as  possible. 

551 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  then  bought  a  few  more  photographs  and  I  got  you 
some  gloves  and  then  we  came  home.  To-day  we  made  the 
excursion  called  "a  day  with  St.  Paul,"  which  means  you  go 
out  on  the  Appian  way,  &c.,  with  a  Prof,  who  lectures,  A 
landau  came  for  us  at  ten  and  we  have  just  got  home  at  five. 
We  began  with  the  English  cemetery,  which  is  very  much 
changed  since  I  saw  it  before,  the  ilexes  have  grown  tremen- 
dously and  there  are  some  beautiful  monuments,  that  of  Story 
to  his  wife,  his  last  work.  Next  came  the  tomb  of  Caius 
Cestius  like  the  Pyramids  but  smaller,  and  the  Aurelian  wall, 
then  a  long  drive  to  the  Basilica  of  St.  Paul,  which  it  will 
take  still  20  more  years  to  finish.  They  are  now  working  on 
the  front,  adding  a  court  and  porch  like  the  old  basilicas.  It 
is  a  gorgeous  building  with  five  aisles,  4  rows  of  pillars  and  the 
whole  lined  with  precious  marbles  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 
There  are  altars  of  Malachites  mounted  in  ormulu  and  the 
canopy  over  the  tomb  of  St.  Paul  has  columns  with  bases  of 
lapis  lazuli  and  portraits  in  mosaic  of  all  the  Popes. 

The  archaeologists  all  agree  that  there  is  no  doubt  about 
Paul's  presence  in  Rome  and  his  death  and  burial  here,  but 
they  say  there  is  absolutely  no  evidence  of  Peter  ever  having 
been  in  Rome. 

We  went  afterwards  through  a  part  of  the  catacombs  of 
Domitilla,  which  are  the  most  interesting  of  all  and  have  not 
been  tampered  with.  We  saw  long  passages  of  tombs  that 
have  never  yet  been  opened  and  all  date  from  the  first  to  the 
fifth  centuries.  The  frescoes  in  the  little  chapels  are  quite 
fresh.  We  ate  lunch,  which  we  took  with  us,  at  the  entrance 
of  the  catacombs,  then  drove  out  the  Appian  way  to  the  5th 
milestone  having  a  wonderful  view  of  the  Alban  Hills  and  the 
Sabine  Mts.,  the  latter  covered  with  snow  and  very  cold. 

I  was  glad  Laura  could  get  such  a  view  with  the  aque- 
ducts in  the  foreground.  Turning  we  came  back  by  many 
tombs  and  columbraria  and  the  tomb  of  Cecilia  Metella  and 
the  Circus  Maxentius,  through  the  San  Sebastian  gate  and 
the  baths  of  Caracalla,  &c.   A  church  called  San  Sebastian  has 

552 


ITALY 

a  very  fine  reclining  marble  statue  of  him  with  the  arrows 
sticking  in  his  flesh  and  is  said  to  look  like  the  saint  when 
they  found  his  body  in  the  catacombs. 

Prof.  Tani  said  he  was  present  when  they  found  the  body 
of  a  rabbi  in  the  Jewish  catacomb.  He  said  it  was  in  a  perfect 
state  of  preservation  with  long  flowing  beard  and  magnificent 
vestments  and  fingers  covered  with  rings.  The  next  day 
some  of  them  went  out  to  take  notes  and  to  examine  more 
carefully  and  there  was  nothing  but  a  few  ashes,  some  larger 
bones  and  the  rings  and  ornaments.  That  is  why  there  is  so 
little  to  carry  away  from  the  catacombs. 

We  have  planned  to  leave  Thursday  morning  for  Viterbo. 
Cook  could  give  me  no  help  in  planning  a  trip  and  told  me 
to  buy  my  tickets  from  place  to  place,  so  I  am  going  off  in 
the  dark.  The  proper  way  to  make  this  trip  is  in  an 
automobile,  as  the  distances  are  short  and  it  would  be 
possible  to  visit  two  places  in  a  day,  arriving  at  a  third  for 
the  night. 

I  forgot  to  say  that  when  the  landau  came  for  us  an  Eng- 
lishman and  his  wife  were  in  it  and  they  proved  to  be  very 
agreeable  companions,  altho  we  did  not  learn  who  they  were. 
We  are  going  to-night  to  hear  "Rheingold,  I'oro  di  Reno," 
its  first  presentation  here,  and  to-morrow  we  pack  in  the 
morning  and  will  go  out  in  the  afternoon. 

Rome,  April  5th. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  expected  to  have  been  in  Orvieto  to-night  but  I  felt  on 
Tuesday  night  that  I  was  not  in  a  condition  to  go  to  such  a 
place.  I  made  up  my  mind  to  go  through  a  cure  yesterday 
instead  and  leave  Saturday,  thereby  losing  two  days  from  the 
Hill  towns. 

Mrs.  Jewell  came  in  last  eve.  to  say  good  bye,  as  they  left 
for  Naples  this  a.  m.  and  said  the  Admiral  thought  I  did  not 
realize  what  discomfort  I  might  have  in  trying  to  go  to  the 
smaller  places  by  train.     I  feared  I  might  have  one  of  my 

553 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

sharp  attacks  in  some  small  place  where  I  could  not  get  a 
Doctor,  so  I  will  now  start  off  feeling  a  little  safer. 

We  enjoyed  our  night  at  the  Opera.  The  audience  was 
very  enthusiastic  and  the  Theatre  very  large  and  imposing. 
Many  officers  in  full  uniform  and  the  boxes  full  of  well  dressed 
people,  made  a  fine  sight.  The  Rheingold  was  magnificently 
staged,  but  it  was  too  funny  in  Italian.  They  sang  it  in  per- 
fect time  all  the  way  through,  which  is  very  different  from  the 
German  way  we  are  used  to.  The  Loki  or  Loge  was  the  only 
one  who  had  an  adequate  idea  of  his  part  and  he  really  acted 
and  sang  delightfully,  but  the  German  Opera  is  evidently  the 
thing  here,  although  it  was  presented  for  the  first  time.  I 
saw  very  fine  jewels  and  magnificent  Opera  wraps,  carriages 
with  men  in  strange  liveries,  very  ornate. 

This  afternoon  Laura  went  over  to  the  Savoy  immediately 
after  lunch  to  see  what  the  Browns  were  going  to  do,  and  they 
took  her  with  them  to  San  Lorenzo  outside  the  walls,  where 
Pius  9th  is  buried  and  to  some  other  churches.  They  went 
entirely  in  trolleys. 

While  she  was  out  I  got  up  to  do  some  packing  and  I  had 
a  great  surprise  when  Dorothy  Joline  walked  in.  She  is  look- 
ing very  well.  I  am  sorry  not  to  have  known  before  so  we 
could  have  gone  about  together.  She  is  en  route  to  Naples. 
To-morrow  morning  I  finish  packing  and  send  my  trunks  to 
Florence  during  the  day  and  we  leave  at  ten  the  next  morning, 
arriving  at  Viterbo,  an  old  Etruscan  town,  and  have  lunch 
and  stay  all  afternoon,  leaving  at  7  for  Orvieto,  reaching  there 
10.30.  I  have  engaged  a  room  at  the  small  hotel  Anglo- 
American  in  Florence  for  the  15th.  The  Jewells  recommended 
it  and  the  Caseys  are  staying  there. 

It  does  not  seem  as  if  we  could  give  up  Paris  and  London. 
I  have  not  yet  got  Countess  Adelmann's  letter,  but  will  write 
her  from  Florence  that  we  wdll  have  to  go  straight  through 
from  Venice  to  Innsbruck  and  Paris,  without  seeing  them. 
Laura  may  never  get  over  here  again  and  I  may  not  either  and 
the  crossing  the  ocean  is  a  serious  thing,  so  that  when  we  are 

554 


ITALY 

here  we  ought  to  carry  out  our  plan.  I  will  see  what  can  be 
done  in  Florence.  I  know  I  have  duties  and  I  came  away 
purposely  to  get  rid  of  them  for  three  months. 

My  love  to  all.  I  shall  expect  to  hear  from  you  about  our 
return.     With  much  love. 

Affly,  M.  D.  R. 

Orvleto,  April  8th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  hardly  know  how  to  begin,  there  is  so  much  to  tell. 
Yesterday  morning  we  got  up  early  and  went  to  the  Station 
armed  with  all  the  necessary  information  about  getting  to 
Viterbo  and  Orvieto.  At  the  station  they  told  us  the  train 
did  not  start  until  a  half  hour  later  than  we  expected.  After 
a  long  wait  the  ticket  office  opened  and  they  informed  me  that 
I  couldn't  get  tickets  there,  that  I  must  go  clear  across  the 
city  to  Trastevere.  You  can  imagine  my  anger  and  disgust. 
Fortunately  the  porter  who  accompanies  the  omnibus  felt  he 
ought  to  see  us  through  and  drove  us  over  in  the  omnibus  to 
the  station  at  Trastevere,  where  we  found  we  had  missed  the 
first  train  but  fortunately  there  was  another.  I  had  feared  my 
trip  was  spoiled,  but  it  only  made  us  late  for  lunch  at  Viterbo. 

What  a  beautiful  ride  we  had  across  the  Campagna,  with 
the  snow  Mts.  in  the  distance!  Climbing  up  the  Cimian  hills 
we  found  we  had  left  the  South  behind.  There  were  more 
deciduous  trees  and  no  more  oranges,  lemons  and  pines.  The 
grass  was  full  of  beautiful  flowers  of  every  color,  white,  pink 
and  yellow,  and  the  views  most  beautiful.  As  we  came  to 
Bracciano  I  could  hardly  make  up  my  mind  to  pass  by  on 
account  of  the  great  castle  of  the  Orsini  covering  the  top  of 
the  hill,  a  mighty  fortress  looking  down  on  the  Lake  of  Brac- 
ciano, but  on  account  of  the  limited  time  I  am  obliged  to 
scurry  through  these  wonderful  places  and  only  hope  some- 
time I  can  go  through  here  in  an  automobile. 

The  next  stop  was  Caprainca,  near  which  is  a  less  ancient 
castle  of  the  Colonna,  at  Capraola.     We  crossed  the  range  of 

555 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

hills  and  then  came  down  on  the  great  Etrurian  plain  on  which 
is  Viterbo,  still  five  or  six  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  We 
got  out  at  the  Porta  Romana  and  were  instantly  impressed 
with  the  immense  age  of  everything.  Drove  to  the  Grand 
Hotel  and  had  lunch  and  found  the  padrone  a  most  intelli- 
gent man,  well  informed  about  the  antiquities  of  Viterbo.  He 
told  the  coachman  where  to  take  us  and  we  saw  most  interest- 
ing things  before  driving  out  to  the  Villa  Lante  at  Bagnaja. 


VITERBO 


The  Municipio  had  a  beautiful  court  on  a  high  bluff  over- 
looking the  ancient  walls  and  surrounding  country,  it  was 
lined  with  Etruscan  sarcophagi,  where  the  statue  of  the  person 
lies  on  the  side  with  head  raised  wearing  a  turban  and  hold 
ing  a  saucer  in  the  hand.  It  gives  one  a  peculiar  feeling  to 
see  all  these  people  gazing  at  one  in  such  a  sidewise  manner. 
We  then  went  to  the  ancient  palace  of  the  Popes,  quite  a 
ruin  with  a  wide  flight  of  steps  and  beautiful  windows  with 
pointed  arches  and  twisted  columns  and  at  the  side  the  un- 
roofed room  where  Pope  John  22nd  was  killed  by  the  ceiling 

falling  on  him. 

556 


ITALY 

On  the  other  side  of  the  little  piazza  were  ruined  palaces 
with  beautiful  architectural  details  now  crumbling  away  and 
abodes  of  the  poorest.  We  drove  through  the  Santa  Pelle- 
grina  quarter,  which  must  have  been  occupied  by  the  very 
rich  centuries  ago,  so  massive,  built  of  great  stones  without 
mortar,  magnificent  doorways  and  outside  staircases,  now  it 
seems  to  be  given  up  to  the  poor  and  dirty  and  the  smells 
were  indescribable. 

A  drive  of  half  an  hour  brought  us  to  a  bridge  over  a  great 
ravine  and  mediaeval  round  towers  forming  the  angle  of  the 
town  wall  reaching  way  down  into  the  valley,  and  there,  as 
everywhere,  the  background  of  blue  hills  and  such  a  blue  I 
have  never  seen  before,  only  in  the  pictures  of  Perugino  and 
the  painters  of  his  time.  As  we  came  out  of  the  hotel  at  our 
right  was  the  old  town  wall  and  a  gate  with  three  arches,  the 
middle  one  higher  than  the  sides  and  through  that  gate  the 
blue  hills  and  pink  sky. 

Between  six  and  seven  when  we  went  to  the  station  the 
effect  was  exactly  what  I  have  seen  in  the  mediaeval  fres- 
coes. They  painted  what  they  saw.  The  Villa  Lante  is 
located  on  the  slope  of  the  hills  back  of  Bagnaja  and  the  prin- 
cipal street  of  the  town,  which  is  filthy,  but  full  of  beautiful 
fountains  leads  up  to  the  main  entrance.  There  were  great 
sweeps  of  park  back  of  the  twin  houses  which  constitute  the 
villa,  with  most  gorgeous  trees,  sycamores,  and  a  tree  I  do 
not  know  but  seems  like  a  cross  between  a  beech  and  an  oak. 
A  beautiful  parasol  pine  hung  over  one  corner  and  wonderful 
fountains  with  very  ancient  looking  balustrades  and  statues 
and  basins  or  troughs,  flow  down  the  centre  from  far  back  to 
the  very  gate,  near  which  a  fountain  of  four  figures  life-size 
bronze  held  up  the  Delle  Rovere  coat  of  arms.  We  saw  one 
of  the  family  crossing  the  Park  and  I  have  since  learned  it 
was  Miss  Allen  of  St.  Louis,  who  married  the  Duke  di  Lante, 
but  I  had  forgotten  about  it. 

We  came  back  to  the  hotel  and  had  tea  and  saw  two  Eng- 
lish women  who  seemed  the  only  foreigners  there,  though  the 

557 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

proprietor  said  there  had  been  five  American  automobiles 
there  at  lunch  time.  We  did  not  meet  them  so  they  must 
have  gone  on. 

The  train  leaving  Viterbo  at  7.15  got  us  here  (Orvieto)  at 
10  o'clock  at  night,  making  one  change  and  the  Porter  of  this 
Hotel  was  waiting  for  us  and  we  got  into  a  Funicular  Railway 


CITY  GATE,  ORVIETO 


with  our  bags.  The  omnibus  was  waiting  at  the  top  and 
brought  us  quickly  here.  The  room  we  were  shown  into  was 
like  an  ice  house  and  we  had  a  great  time  getting  a  fire  and 
having  the  beds  warmed.  The  man  brought  in  the  most 
remarkable  wooden  frames  into  which  they  put  earthenware 
dishes  full  of  live  coals  and  put  the  whole  apparatus  into  the 
bed.  Anyway  the  beds  were  clean  and  we  slept  well  and  this 
morning  the  sun  was  bright  and  warm.     After  breakfast  I 

558 


ITALY 

went  at  once  to  the  Cathedral  and  found  it  had  not  been  over- 
estimated. In  the  first  place  the  location  is  so  wonderful,  on 
the  highest  part  of  this  already  tremendously  high  town,  out- 
lined against  the  mountains  with  the  valley  of  the  Paglia 
between.  The  whole  front  is  of  white  marble  and  gold  mosaic, 
the  glitter  of  which  almost  blinds  one  in  the  sunlight.  One 
would  never  tire  of  looking  at  it  but  I  cannot  give  a  detailed 
description  of  it,  so  lace-like  is  the  carving. 


THE  CATHEDRAL  AT  ORVIETO 


I  went  inside  and  found  a  service  going  on  with  a  bishop 
seated  on  a  throne  and  excellent  music,  Gregorian,  I  think, 
but  I  could  not  stay  long  as  I  wanted  to  see  the  celebrated 
frescoes  in  the  side  chapel  of  Luca  Signorelli.  I  sat  down 
with  an  English  lady  and  enjoyed  them  thoroughly;  a  young 
priest  pointed  out  many  interesting  details  and  showed  us  the 
miraculous  madonnas  which  we  had  to  climb  up  behind  the 
altar  to  see.  It  proved  to  be  an  ancient  Byzantine  picture  of 
madonna  and  child,  each  with  gold  crowns  and  not  often 
shown.     This  priest  seemed  to  enjoy  all  the  wonderful  small 

559 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

details  of  these  frescoes  and  showed  me  some  water  color 
copies  he  had  made  of  some  of  the  medallions.  I  got  one,  as  I 
thought  them  beautiful  and  was  glad  to  have  such  an  interest- 
ing remembrance  of  these  Signorelli  frescoes. 

He,  the  priest,  said  he  had  sold  some  in  London  and  that 
Canova  had  come  here  to  study  them  for  his  own  work. 
This  afternoon  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to  the  Forte- 
rezzo,  a  part  of  the  walls  with  great  towers.  I  don't  know 
how  to  give  you  an  impression  of  the  height  of  this  place;  it 
is  fearful  to  look  down  over  the  parapets,  there  is  a  lovely 
garden  now  in  the  midst  of  this  fortress  where  one  gets  the 
finest  views. 

Further  on  was  the  well  of  San  Patrizio,  built  by  one  of 
the  Popes  to  provide  water  in  time  of  siege,  6i  and  over 
metres  deep  and  two  staircases  wind  around  it.  Donkeys  go 
up  and  down  with  water  barrels  and  it  is  terribly  cold  and 
dark.    The  water  they  say  is  excellent. 

The  next  sight  was  the  Etruscan  Necropolis,  further  on 
and  down  outside  and  under  the  city  walls.  A  girl  showed  us 
the  tombs  and  told  us  how  her  father  had  discovered  them 
when  he  dug  a  trench  to  plant  some  trees.  Then  the  govern- 
ment has  excavated  three  streets  of  them.  They  are  of  large 
blocks  of  brown  tufa  set  without  cement  and  were  square  on 
top  outside  but  pointed  inside  like  the  cyclopean  arches. 
There  were  round  ornamental  stones  on  top  and  some  of  the 
entrances  had  three  doors  of  solid  stone.  There  are  stone 
benches  on  two  sides  and  on  these  they  found  bones  and  pot- 
tery and  metal  implements,  as  they  were  fitted  out  for  travel- 
ling into  the  unknown  world.  The  bodies  were  laid  on  their 
sides.  I  think  them  among  the  most  impressive  things  I  have 
ever  seen, — 25  centuries  since  they  were  sealed  up  and  no  one 
can  read  the  inscriptions  cut  in  the  stone  of  the  lintel.  Schol- 
ars come  all  the  time  to  look  at  them.  I  am  sending  you  a 
postal  card  with  them  on  which  gives  you  an  idea. 

When  we  came  back  to  the  house  it  was  still  early  and  we 

decided  to  walk  up  to  the  cathedral  to  see  the  sunset  light  on 

560 


ITALY 

the  fagade.  Going  inside  we  listened  to  the  Vesper  service 
and  a  sermon  in  good  ItaHan.  As  the  sunHght  faded  the 
candle  light  threw  strange  shadows  in  the  church,  and  the 
choir  being  filled  with  priests  and  acolytes  the  effect  was  very 
impressive.  Those  things  you  must  see  to  realize.  We  think 
of  going  out  to  see  the  eff"ect  of  the  full  moon  on  it  now. 

I  forgot  to  tell  you  about  the  delicious  wines  we  are  having 
in  this  locality.  They  are  celebrated,  particularly  that  of 
Montefiascone,,  which  we  saw  perched  on  a  very  high  hill  beyond 
the  Etrurian  plain,  as  we  came  on  from  Viterbo  last  night. 
It  is  called  Est,  Est,  Est,  because  an  old  Bishop  Fugger,  who 
was  very  fond  of  wine,  when  he  was  travelling  through  this 
country  was  preceded  by  a  valet  who  when  he  liked  the  wine 
would  write  on  the  wall  Est,  and  the  bishop  only  stopped 
where  he  saw  the  wine.  When  the  valet  came  to  Montefias- 
cone  he  found  the  wine  so  good  he  wrote  Est,  Est,  Est,  and 
the  bishop  drank  so  much  he  died  that  night.  I  like  the  wine 
so  much  I  would  also  like  to  drink  as  much  as  I  please,  but 
must  refrain.  It  is  always  drunk  fresh  and  they  say  the  Est, 
Est,  Est  should  never  be  taken  down  from  its  hill. 

We  leave  here  to-morrow  for  Spoleto  and  Foligno,  going 
back  as  far  as  Orte  to  connect  with  that  R.  R.  Viterbo  was  a 
more  beautiful  city  than  Orvieto  but  Orvieto  is  more  wonder- 
fully located. 

I  am  so  dead  tired  I  must  stop.  We  hope  Laura's  pictures 
will  turn  out  well,  so  you  will  then 'see  what  we  have  seen. 

With  much  love  for  you  all  and  looking  forward  to  letters 
in  Florence.  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Spoleto,  April  9th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

Such  a  day  as  we  have  had.  We  left  Orvieto  this  morning 
by  the  Funicular  and  heard  the  news  of  the  eruption  of  Vesu- 
vius on  our  way  down.  It  is  most  startling.  I  only  hope  the 
Jewells  have  got  through  all  right.  The  papers  say  there 
were  three  earthquakes  in  Naples  night  before  last  and  the 
36  561 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

observatory  on  Vesuvius  and  the  railroad  also  gone  and  one 
town  of  10,000  people  entirely  destroyed.  What  dreadful 
tragedies!  Yet  I  would  have  liked  to  be  there.  I  felt  when  in 
Naples  that  Vesuvius  was  strange,  with  white  snow  all  over 
the  top  and  the  red  streaks  of  lava  flowing  down. 


SPOLETO 


SPOLETO 

We  got  out  at  Orte  and  had  time  to  get  a  very  bad  lunch, 

then  took  the  train  coming  from  Rome  and  went  to  Spoleto. 

Two  Americans  were  in  the  carriage  and   we  became  quite 

well  acquainted. 

562 


ITALY 


Strange  to  say  I  did  not  know  the  name  of  the  Hotel  here 
but  the  description  in  "Hill  Towns"  enabled  me  to  get  there, 
viz,  an  ancient  palace  and  the  entrance  under  a  garden.  We 
found  two  English  women  here  and  have  had  great  fun  w^ith 
them  at  dinner  being  joined  by  a  German  man.  One  officer 
was  in  the  room  and  he  went  into  fits  of  laughter.  The  waiter 
came  up  to  us  with  a  great  air  and  tried  to  tell  us  that  Laura's 
hot  water  bottle  was  leaking  and  did  we  want  "a  priest"  to 
warm  the  beds.  We  couldn't  understand  a  word  so  the  whole 
room  tried  to  explain  and  finally  we  discovered  the  things  I 


SPELLO 

have  described,  that  they  put  into  the  beds  to  warm  them  are 
called  "pretre." 

We  took  a  carriage  and  drove  all  about  and  to  the  churches 
outside,  one  of  them  being  a  perfect  Roman  temple  preserved 
by  being  built  up  as  a  church.  The  views  were  too  beautiful 
as  we  drove  out  of  the  town  on  different  sides  and  I  wish  you 
could  be  here  to  see  for  yourself.  The  hotel  had  been  the 
palace  of  a  cardinal  and  had  enormous  rooms,  but  without 
fires,  so  we  were  not  too  comfortable.     But  oh  how  I  have  en- 

563 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

joyed   the   mediaeval   buildings,   Etruscan   and   Roman  walls 
and  the  narrow  dark  streets  and  gardens  on  tops  of  walls! 

In  the  Municipio  of  Spoleto  we  saw  some  fine  old  paint- 
ings [by  Lo  Spagna  and  in  the  cellar  the  floors  of  a  whole 
Roman  house  of  which  the  walls  are  gone,  beautiful  complete 
mosaic  floors,  better  than  any  in  Rome.  Another  interesting 
thing  was  the  Pelasgic  foundations  of  a  part  of  the  city  walls, 


FOLIGNO 


a  beautiful  bridge  crosses  the  Paglia  on  many  arches  and  at 
one  end  outside  of  the  city  gate  was  a  flat  quay.  The  driver 
told  us  to  see  a  Roman  bridge  underneath.  One  of  the  guards 
at  the  gate  then  lifted  an  iron  trap  door  on  the  piazza  and  we 
descended  a  long  stone  staircase  and  he  turned  on  electric 
light  and  there  were  the  great  arches  of  a  Roman  bridge, 
entirely  below  the  upper  street. 

We  liked  our  driver  and  horse  so  much  that  we  yielded  to 
his  demand  that  we  drive  with  him  the  next  day  to  Assisi  in- 
stead of  taking  the  train.  So  we  arranged  to  stop  at  Foligno 
and  Spello  on  the  way  and  were  up  and  off  the  next  morning 
at  eight  o'clock  and  off  in  the  lovely  early  lights  finding  the 

564 


ITALY 

weather  perfect.  The  little  horse  got  over  the  ground  wonder- 
fully and  after  one  stop  at  a  little  Roman  temple  near  a  foun- 
tain called  Clitumnus  we  drove  up  to  the  Hotel  Poste  and  had 
something  to  eat,  it  being  eleven  when  we  finished. 

I  wrote  to  Countess  Adelmann  and  hope  to  get  a  letter  at 
Florence.    With  much  love  to  you  all, 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Perugia,  April  12th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  have  finally  decided  to  give  up  Cortona,  as  it  would 

mean  spending  the  night  there  and  we  feel  time  is  getting  so 


ROMAN  TEMPLE.  PERUGIA 

short  we  must  get  to  Siena  to-morrow  night.  We  look  forward 
to  spending  Easter  there  where  we  will  be  able  to  hear  a  fine 
service. 

565 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

This  afternoon  after  posting  our  letters  home  we  went  out 
in  a  carriage  to  San  Pietro,  quite  a  distance  away,  where 
all  the  pictures  and  choir  stalls  of  Raphael  remain  in  place, 
except  the  greatest  of  all,  the  Assumption  by  Perugino,  which 
Napoleon  carried  away  with  him. 

Siena,  April  14th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

Yesterday  we  spent  en  route,  arriving  here  at  ten  o'clock 
almost  an  hour  late.  I  hated  to  leave  beautiful  Perugia  on  such 
a  perfect  morning  but  all  good  things  must  come  to  an  end. 

Our  first  change  of  cars  was  at  Terontola.  I  noticed  an 
attractive  German  American  lady  getting  into  the  Florentine 
train  with  her  maid  but  after  the  train  had  left  was  surprised 
to  see  her  husband  wandering  around  the  Station  as  if  looking 
for  some  one.  At  first  I  thought  that  he  must  be  going  else- 
where and  thought  no  more  about  it,  but  as  he  seemed  to  still 
be  hunting  I  asked  him  if  he  was  looking  for  the  lady  that  was 
with  him  in  the  train  and  he  said  yes.  I  said  I  saw  her  go 
away  on  that  last  train.  He  clapped  his  hands  to  his  head 
and  said  My  God  this  is  terrible! 

He  fairly  shook  with  excitement  and  mopped  his  head  and 
didn't  seem  to  know  what  to  do,  so  I  told  him  he  had  better 
telegraph  but  he  couldn't  speak  a  word  of  Italian.  I  said  I 
will  tell  the  Capo  Stazione  and  then  came  the  task  of  finding 
a  place  to  which  he  was  going  with  his  Milan  tickets,  where 
he  could  send  her  word  to  get  off".  I  had  a  hard  time  to  get 
him  to  understand  but  finally  he  telegraphed  to  Arezzo  to  the 
officials  there  to  put  the  lady  off  at  Arezzo  and  I  hope  found 
her  soon  after. 

We  had  heard  her  call  him  Ludwig  and  he  looked  like 
Admiral  Selfridge;  he  was  very  grateful  to  me.  Laura  has 
had  lots  of  fun  over  Ludwig  and  the  meeting  at  Arezzo. 

Our  train  came  along  and  we  went  to  Chiusi  in  a  half  hour. 

Then  came  the  excitement  of  finding  out  when  the  train  for 

Siena  would  come  along,  and  if  there  was  a   late  one  which 

566 


ITALY 

would  enable  us  to  spend  some  hours  at  Chiusi,  which  was 
high  up  on  Its  hill.  Fortunately  there  was  no  hurry  as  the 
first  train  was  not  due  for  an  hour  or  so  and  we  had  a  very 
comfortable  lunch  and  decided  to  wait  over  for  the  6  p.  ai. 
train.  We  took  a  little  carriage  and  were  soon  climbing  up 
the  usual  long  hill,  zig-zag  fashion,  and  saw  an  Interesting 
Etruscan  museum  and  then  went  off  Into  the  country  to  see 
some  Etruscan  tombs,  not  like  those  we  saw  at  Orvleto — but 
with  flat  roofs  with  curious  arrangement  of  stones  like  a  log 
cabin  quilt,  and  with  frescoes  of  red  figures  on  white  back- 
ground, and  In  perfect  preservation,  subject  athletic  games, 
chariot  races,  &c.,  &c. 

It  then  began  to  rain  heavily  and  we  went  over  a  terrible 
road  on  the  edge  of  precipices  so  I  was  thankful  when  it  was 
over  and  we  were  back  at  the  station,  where  we  packed  a 
good  lunch  of  wine  and  bread,  cakes  and  oranges.  In  a  six-cent 
basket  to  take  with  us  on  the  train,  being  the  only  food  we 
would  get.  The  air  was  so  sweet  with  all  the  fresh  green 
smells  and  the  grass  full  of  little  English  daisies  and  violets 
that  it  was  delightful  to  drive  along  looking  at  constantly 
changing  views  of  the  mountains. 

We  passed  Trevi,  on  top  of  its  cone-shaped  grey  and  for- 
bidding hill.  The  wonder  is  that  people  were  ever  able  to 
exist  on  such  heights.  From  Foligno  It  was  only  three  miles 
to  Spello  and  when  we  got  there  the  driver  told  us  it  was  too 
steep  for  a  carriage  and  so  we  started  on  foot  through  the 
unchanged  Roman  gate,  with  the  statues  still  on  the  front  and 
went  up  steep  perfectly  paved  stone  streets  to  two  churches, 
where  we  saw  pictures  by  PInturicchio  and  a  beautiful  Renais- 
sance facade.  A  Madonna  by  Lo  Spagna  was  In  a  side  chapel. 
The  pictures  by  PInturicchio  are  his  finest  works  and  line  the 
sides  of  a  chapel  In  Santa  Maria  Magglore.  I  think  I  shall 
never  forget  the  Christ  In  the  Temple  among  the  Doctors. 

After  seeing  these  Laura  gave  out  and  I  went  on  alone 
through  another  Roman  arch  up  to  the  very  top,  through 
dark  narrow  arched  streets,  till  I  came  out  on  a  little  Piazza 

567 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

with  a  view  of  the  whole  Umbrian  plain  and  Assisi  in  the  dis- 
tance and  even  Perugia  and  Spoleto  far  to  the  south. 

I  forgot  one  of  the  sights  of  Spoleto,  viz,  the  Porta  della 
Fuga,  where  Hannibal  was  put  to  flight  by  the  Spoletoans. 

1  keep  thinking  back  of  the  beauty  of  Spoleto.  Soon  we  were 
approaching  Assisi  far  up  on  the  mountain  at  the  right  with 
the  long  row  of  arches  supporting  what  was  the  Franciscan 
convent,  but  now  a  boys'  school.  Instead  of  turning  up  to- 
wards it  we  went  to  the  left  where  the  great  church  (with 
dome  almost  like  St.  Peter's)  of  "degli  Angeli,"  looms  up  in 
the  plain.  This  is  the  church  built  over  the  little  house 
'Porginneula"  where  St.  Francis  started  his  life  with  a  few- 
companions  and  worked  a  great  reform  which  brought  Chris- 
tianity into  the  lives  of  the  people  when  it  had  become  a 
meaningless  myth  with  them,  consisting  of  church  pageants 
entirely  in  the  hands  of  the  priests. 

Entering  we  saw  the  little  stone  house  which  they  have 
covered  over  with  a  sort  of  chapel  with  a  fresco  by  Overbeck 
in  the  middle  of  the  great  church.  At  one  side  we  saw  the 
little  garden  of  thornless  roses  which  never  grow  higher  than 

2  ft.  and  bloom  in  May.  They  had  just  leafed  out.  I  have 
brought  some  leaves  for  Annie  and  the  others,  picked  from 
these  plants.  Finally  we  turned  towards  Assisi,  which  looked 
so  far  away  up  the  Alountain  and  finally  got  there   about  2 

p.  M. 

How  our  little  horse  had  been  able  to  go  all  that  distance 
without  showing  any  traces  of  fatigue  I  cannot  understand. 
We  had  not  yet  got  over  the  fatigue  of  climbing  Spello  and  now 
we  had  Assisi  to  do,  beginning  with  the  great  church  of  San 
Francesco,  first  the  lower  church  with  great  low  arches  cov- 
ered with  the  great  works  of  Giotto  and  Cimabue.  Such 
wealth  of  great  art  can  scarcely  be  digested,  it  is  so  over- 
whelming, such  delicious  coloring  and  wonderful  religious 
sentiment. 

Down  below  this  lower  church  is  the  crypt,  where  St. 
Francis  lies  in  a  stone  coffin  in  a  shrine,  and  then  there  is  the 

568 


ITALY 

upper  church  high  up  above  and  opening  on  another  Piazza, 
for  Assisi  is  all  up  and  down.  To  me  it  all  resolves  itself  into 
the  lower  church  with  its  wide  heavy  and  low  arches  and 
wonderful  frescoes. 

In  the  meantime  as  we  found  we  would  have  to  leave  at 
4.50  by  train  for  Perugia  or  stay  over  night  at  Assisi,  we 
decided  to  drive  on  to  Perugia  at  5  p.  m.  We  still  had  the 
Duomo  and  the  Roman  temple  and  Santa  Chiava  to  see  and  it 
seemed  as  if  we  walked  and  climbed  miles  up  steep  grass-grown 
streets  for  at  last  when  we  had  got  through  and  came  down 
to  the  lowest  level,  which  was  hundreds  of  feet  up  above  the 
valley,  we  were  able  to  do  nothing  but  get  a  cup  of  tea  at  the 
Giotto.*  The  Roman  temple  was  almost  perfect  and  is  the 
one  Goethe  preferred  to  see  rather  than  San  Francesco. 

I  was  so  sorry  not  to  go  to  the  Brufani  Hotel  here  (Siena), 
as  it  is  right  over  the  parapet  and  has  a  wonderful  view  and 
is  kept  by  an  English  woman,  but  I  had  foolishly  telegraphed 
to  the  Palace  Hotel  and  so  had  to  come  here.  Our  ride  was 
most  restful  and  most  beautiful  and  we  found  Perugia  more 
attractive  than  any  other  place.  I  dislike  the  idea  of  leaving 
it  and  hope  I  may  come  back  sometime. 

In  the  morning  we  rested,  being  too  tired  to  go  out,  but 
in  the  afternoon  we  took  a  little  carriage  and  drove  around 
within  the  walls,  seeing  the  different  gates,  Roman  and  Etrus- 
can, and  visited  the  Etruscan  Museum  at  the  old  University. 
At  five  we  went  to  the  Brufani  Hotel  at  one  side  of  the  Public 
Park,  both  occupying  the  spot  where  the  Baglionis  and  other 
great  families  had  their  castles,  fought  it  out  and  then  the 
victorious  Pope  Paul  3rd  (Farnese)  overcame  them  and  built 
a  great  fortress  over  all  this  high  part  and  imprisoned  and  tor- 
tured the  Perugians  until  now  the  monument  in  the  Piazza 
in  front  of  this  Hotel  gives  glory  to  Victor  Emmanuel  who 
delivered  them  from  the  rule  ot  the  Popes. 

I  sat  out  in  the  Park  gazing  at  the  wonderful  sunset  light- 
ing up  Assisi  and  Spello  and  Foligno  and  coming  back  leaned 

*  What  energy  for  a  woman  of  60! 

569 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

over  the  Parapet  to  see  the  Porta  Marcia,  the  Etruscan  gate, 
imbedded  into  the  present  bastion,  which  descends  to  the 
winding  street.  It  still  has  statues  in  its  niches,  for  it  was 
spared  by  both  nobles  and  popes. 

This  morning  we  went  up  to  the  Piazza  Municipio,  where 
we  had  to  climb  to  the  4th  story  to  see  the  museum,  with 
Peruginos  and  Pinturicchios  and  San  Georgios  and  Bonfigli, 
not  so  very  different  from  one  another  but  all  beautiful.  Then 
in  the  next  building,  right  on  the  ground  floor  of  the  old  Col- 


COLLEGIO  DEL  CAMBIO,  PERUGIA 

legio  del  Cambio,  which  I  suppose  was  an  Exchange,  were  two 
rooms,  the  first  entirely  wood  carving,  seats  like  in  the  choirs 
of  churches,  and  the  second  a  judicial  seat  and  bench  of  the 
money  changers  carved  up  to  the  ceiling,  the  rest  of  it  covered 
with  Perugino's  greatest  frescoes,  which  Napoleon  was  not 
able  to  carry  away.  You  cannot  imagine  anything  more 
beautiful  and  mediaeval. 

The  piazza  at  the  side  of  the  Municipio  contains  a  beauti- 
ful carved  fountain,  one  story  of  marble  and  one  of  bronze. 
That  side  of  the  Municipio  has  a  fine  outside  staircase  and 

570 


ITALY 

Immense  griffins,  the  symbol  of  Perugia,  standing  out  from 
the  wall  and  from  there  a  narrow  dark  street  pitches  down 
between  high  dark  houses  to  a  little  Piazza  with  fine  view, 
which  is  upheld  by  Etruscan  walls,  which  curve  out  to  the 
right  and  left. 

We  were  lucky  to  enter  the  Cathedral  this  morning  just  as 
they  finished  a  high  mass  in  full  pontificals,  and  then  a  pro- 
cession went  through  the  church  (music  fine)  and  disappeared. 
They  then  dismantled  the  high  altar  and  shortly  after  I  saw 
a  dozen  old  men  in  a  sort  of  linen  wrappers  take  their  seats  in 
the  middle  of  the  church  and  the  Bishop,  after  much  dressing 
in  purple  and  aprons,  proceeded  to  wash  and  kiss  the  feet  of 
the  twelve  and  put  something  around  their  necks.  In  the 
meantime  the  chanting  was  very  fine.  We  are  hurrying  to 
post  these  letters  so  they  will  get  the  ship  at  Cherbourg  on 
Saturday. 

We  expect  to  get  to  Florence  on  the  17th  and  hope  to  find 
letters  there  as  it  will  have  been  1 1  days  since  we  left  Rome 
and  letters.  What  a  pity  you  cannot  all  be  with  us  to  see 
these  beautiful  things  and  it  is  perfectly  comfortable. 

We  hoped  to  see  those  Americans  we  met  in  the  train 
yesterday  at  tea,  but  did  not  see  them.  They  live  in  Rome 
and  came  up  here  for  a  short  time.  If  it  does  not  rain  in  the 
morning  we  shall  drive  to  San  Gimignano,  which  is  7  miles 
from  its  railway  station  and  then  be  left  at  the  station  Poggi- 
bonsi  in  time  for  the  4  p.  ai.  for  Florence,  where  I  suppose 
we  shall  be  for  a  week. 

The  whole  population  here  is  out  in  the  Park  (the  Lizza) 
from  six  to  seven,  and  it  is  quite  amusing  from  our  windows 
to  see  them.  I  get  a  little  homesick  when  I  see  American 
young  men,  but  it  will  soon  be  all  over  and  I  shall  be  at  home 
again.  We  look  forward  to  letters  tomorrow  evening  and  hope 
for  only  good  news  after  a  wait  of  ten  days.  With  much  love 
to  you  all  and  hoping  you  are  having  lovely  warm  weather 
like  this. 

Most  affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

571 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Grand  Hotel  Royal,  Siena, 

April  15th,  1906. 
Easter  Sunday  made  us  imagine  what  you  were  all  doing 
at  home.  We  were  rather  disappointed  at  the  service  in  the 
Cathedral,  as  the  music  was  not  particularly  impressive.  The 
church  itself  is  superb,  all  black,  white  and  red  marble  and 
magnificently  carved  inlaid  floors,  a  wonderful  pulpit  by 
Pisano.    The  Piccolomini  chapel  is  a  work  of  art,  all  exqui- 


MONTE  OLIVETO,  SIENA 

sitely  carved  marble  and  near  it  opens  the  library  of  the 
Cathedral  in  which  are  the  best  works  of  Pinturicchio 
illustrating  the  life  of  Pius  H. 

After  lunch  we  drove  to  a  neighboring  castello  belonging 
to  a  Count  Caimoli  called  "Belcaro"  and  has  a  wall  with  path 
all  round  and  is  a  fortified  place.  It  dates  from  the  15th  cen- 
tury and  has  one  or  two  good  frescoes  on  the  ceilings.  The 
trees  were  most  beautiful  and  reaching  up  to  the  top  of  the 

572 


ITALY 

walls  are  kept  trimmed  so  the  effect  from  the  outside  is  an 
enormously  high  hedge.     Inside  is  a  modern  country  house. 

We  then  drove  on  the  way  home  to  a  suppressed  convent, 
which  had  been  bought  by  a  family  and  used  as  their  home, 
of  course  they  use  only  one  side  and  around  the  small  court. 
Back  in  the  large  Court  or  cloisters,  with  the  antique  well, 
is  a  chapel  with  very  good  pictures,  which  were  all  bought 
at  the  same  time  and  probably  didn't  cost  very  much. 

The  Lizza  is  the  fashionable  garden  of  Siena  and  is  back 
of  our  hotel.  The  bastions  of  the  Fort  Santa  Barbara  are  also 
used  as  a  promenade,  so  we  went  at  six  expecting  to  hear  the 
band  play  as  usual  on  Sunday.  There  were  throngs  of  people 
but  no  band.  The  weather  is  delightful  and  I  hope  will  last 
to  get  us  to  Florence.  We  are  getting  up  early  to  drive  to 
Monte  Oliveto  so  goodbye  for  to-night.     I  am  very  tired. 

Siena,  Monday  eve.,  April  i6th. 

A  lovely  ride  to  Monte  Oliveto,  a  great  monastery  situated 
in  the  midst  of  chalk  hills  with  winding  roads  bordered  by 
tall  cypresses.  It  is  pathetic  to  see  the  great  place  with  only 
four  Benedictine  monks  left  in  charge.  The  walls  of  the 
larger  court  are  lined  with  frescoes  by  Sodoma;  subjects  the 
life  of  St.  Benedict. 

We  thought  when  some  automobiles  passed  us  that  we 
should  have  company  there  but  they  had  all  passed  on  by  the 
old  road  to  Rome  and  we  picniced  alone,  with  a  very  old 
peasant  and  some  dogs.  We  were  most  of  the  time  on  very 
high  ground  so  the  views  were  fine  and  very  distant.  As  we 
went  by  the  Roman  road  we  used  the  Porta  Romana,  a  very 
interesting  double  gate  of  mediaeval  times. 

A  big  auto  arrived  at  the  Hotel  just  as  we  were  coming  in 
and  a  quite  young  American  couple  got  out  of  it.  We  are 
curious  to  know  who  they  are,  the  young  man  is  very  handsome 
and  very  tall.  So  many  of  the  people  here  are  in  their  own 
autos.    What  a  delightful  way  to  travel  through  the  dust. 

As  usual  bright  sunshine  and  very  warm.     We  have  had 

573 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

our  windows  wide  open  all  day  and  it  is  as  warm  as  a  May 
day.  The  rains  were  sadly  needed  to  lay  the  dust  which  had 
become  very  trying.     Everywhere  we  meet  automobiles. 

I  hope  to  arrange  to  go  to  Monte  Olivcto  in  one  on  Mon- 
day. We  did  not  hurry  out  today  but  when  we  were  quite 
ready  went  out  on  foot  up  the  main  Corso  which  has  many 
interesting   mediaeval    palaces   on    little   piazzas    and   finally 


SIENA 

came  to  a  flight  of  steps  leading  down  to  the  great  Piazza 
where  is  the  centre  of  life  here,  and  renamed  as  everything  in 
Italy  is,  "Piazza  Vittorio  Emmanuele."  Here  is  the  famous 
"Palazzo  Publico"  which  has  always  been  the  seat  of  Govern- 
ment and  has  fine  old  halls  with  great  frescoes  and  carved 
seats  in  the  Council  Hall  of  Siena.  It  is  a  Gothic  build- 
ing with  a  fine  tower  at  one  end  and  called  the  Maugia  and 

574 


ITALY 

a  beautiful  chapel  in  the  form  of  a  loggia.  In  the  place  is  a 
lovely  fountain  by  Delia  Querela  from  1409.  They  have  re- 
moved the  original  to  the  Cathedral  Museum  and  the  present 
one  is  only  a  copy.  Also  the  pictures  have  been  removed 
from  the  Cathedral  to  this  same  Museum,  which  we  shall  see 
to-morrow. 

We  shall  attend  the  Easter  service  there  and  see  the 
Library  which  is  filled  with  Pinturicchio's  finest  frescoes.  In 
the  Academia  delle  Belle  Arte  is  a  whole  history  of  Italian 
Painting,  or  rather  Sienese,  beginning  with  the  earliest  By- 
zantine Madonnas  and  Altar  pieces  and  ending  with  Sodoma. 
Here  was  his  great  "Descent  from  the  Cross,"  a  wonderful 
picture,  and  when  you  think  that  he  died  at  24,  it  is  too  wonder- 
ful to  believe.  His  other  greatest  picture  the  "Adoration  of 
the  Magi"  is  in  the  church  of  San  Agostino.  I  write  these 
things  out  in  order  to  recapitulate  and  settle  in  my  own  mind 
where  I  have  seen  these  pictures  for  it  is  certainly  confusing. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  wonder,  on  one  side  two  stories  high, 
the  lower  story  being  the  former  Baptistery,  with  a  magnifi- 
cent Gothic  front.  You  climb  up  an  enormous  flight  of  steps 
to  the  left  of  this  and  come  out  on  a  great  Piazza,  where  to 
the  right  is  the  Fagade  of  the  Cathedral,  also  Gothic,  but  with 
the  three  gables  filled  in  with  Venetian  Mosaic  and  great 
arches  go  off  to  the  left,  which  are  all  that  was  left  of  a  nave 
once  planned  to  make  the  present  cathedral  only  the  transept. 

I  cannot  think  Siena  as  beautiful  as  Perugia,  as  the  coun- 
try around  is  not  nearly  so  lovely,  and  there  are  no  dark 
Etruscan  walls  or  gateways,  and  seems  modern  with  only 
mediaeval  attractions.  It  will  seem  strange  to  get  back  to 
modern  pictures.  I  have  learned  to  care  very  much  for  the 
ancient  stiff  Byzantine  altar  pieces  with  their  gold  halos  and 
gold  backgrounds  and  soft  colorings.  I  will  write  again  about 
what  we  see  tomorrow.  You  can  read  the  description  of  Monte 
Oliveto  in  Bourget's  "Mr.  Saint,"  which  I  have  somewhere. 


575 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Anglo-American  Hotel,  Florence, 

April  1 8th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

You  can't  imagine  how  surprised  the  Caseys  were  when 
we  walked  into  the  dining  room  last  night,  and  we  were  glad 
to  be  with  friends  again.  I  sent  you  a  postal  from  San  Gimig- 
nano,  where  we  spent  three  hours  seeing  the  Cathedral  and 
Palazzo  Publico  and  Podesta.     What  was    more  interesting 


SAN  GIMIGNANO 


were  the  old  palaces  of  families  now  come  to  an  end.  The 
highest  nobility  were  entitled  to  two  towers,  the  lesser  to  only 
one.  The  towers  are  enormous  square  ones  built  very  high 
and  no  windows  until  at  least  the  3rd  story,  a  queer  idea  of 
comfort  to  only  begin  to  live  above  the  third  floor.  Even  the 
picture  galleries  in  this  part  of  the  country  are  on  the  3rd  or 
4th  floor. 

This  hotel  is  small  and  full  of   very  nice  Americans  and 

576 


ITALY 

English.    It  has  a  palm  garden  which  Is  really  the  only  place 
they  have  to  sit  in  the  evenings  and  it  is  quite  gay  after  dinner. 

I  had  written  some  time  ago  to  both  White  Star  Line  and 
Hamburg-American  and  found  letters  here  last  night,  which 
were  not  satisfactory,  so  went  at  once  to  the  offices  this  morn- 
ing and  cannot  get  anything  but  inside  staterooms  before 
May  24th.    I  am  telegraphing  so  as  to  do  the  very  best. 

I  was  so  glad  to  get  all  your  letters  and  it  seems  to  me  you 
are  very  gay,  going  to  so  many  dinners  with  bridge,  &c.  I 
am  delighted  that  you  are  being  invited  so  much.  I  hoped 
one  of  your  last  letters  might  be  an  answer  to  mine  in  Rome, 
but  it  was  not. 

Of  course  at  Paris  it  may  be  possible  a  stateroom  would 
be  given  up  on  some  of  the  ships.  Countess  Adelmann  wrote 
that  they  would  be  angry  if  we  did  not  stop  and  said  to  come 
by  Innsbruck  and  Munich,  where  Mechtilde  is.  I  don't  see 
how  we  can  spare  the  time  but  might  give  up  two  days.  We 
shall  stay  here  a  week — have  been  in  the  Uffizi  all  afternoon. 

With  much  love  to  all  of  you,  and  looking  forward  to  see- 
ing you  all  soon. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Anglo-American  Hotel,  Florence, 

Thurs.  April  19th,  1906. 
Dear  F, 

After  going  through  the  Uffizi  gallery  yesterday  after- 
noon Laura  and  I  spent  the  morning  in  our  rooms,  as  we  were 
absolutely  too  tired  to  look  at  anything,  and  it  was  pouring 
rain.  While  I  lay  in  bed  Mary  Macauley  came  and  I  had  her 
come  up.  She  looked  very  well  and  stylish,  said  they  are 
quite  gay  here  and  have  taken  an  apartment  here  and  do  not 
expect  to  go  to  America  this  summer.  They  have  asked  us 
to  come  in  for  tea  Sunday  afternoon. 

Florence  is  lovely — the  old  Ponte  Vecchio  is  so  picturesque 
and  I  remember  it  well.  I  also  remembered  the  Hotel  where 
Father  and  I  stayed  on  the  Lung  Arno.     Every  one  says  it  is 

37  577 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

utterly  impossible  to  see  Florence  in  a  week,  but  I  think  we 
can  get  a  very  good  idea  of  it. 

I  hope  to-morrow  to  leave  my  card  at  Countess  di  Calry's. 
I  got  a  few  large  photographs  to-day — they  are  so  beautiful 
and  here  they  have  wonderful  gilt  frames  for  them  which  set 
them  off  perfectly,  but  the  difficulty  is  to  get  them  home. 
That  reminds  me — we  have  just  heard  of  the  dreadful  earth- 
quake in  San  Francisco  and  I  am  very  anxious  to  know  how 
the  Watsons  have  escaped.  They  say  Mt.  ^tna  is  getting 
ready  to  do  something.  Tell  Clifford  we  were  way  up  at  Or- 
vieto  when  the  eruption  of  Vesuvius  occurred.  I  should  have 
liked  to  see  it  after  the  danger  was  over  but  I  think  when  the 
people  didn't  know  whether  they  could  get  out  of  Naples 
alive  it  must  have  been  far  from  pleasant.  They  say  you 
could  see  nothing  on  account  of  the  ashes  falling  everywhere. 

Of  course  we  are  not  gay  but  we  enjoy  seeing  things  and 
travelling.  Countess  Adelmann  says  you  will  not  mind  our 
taking  time  to  stop  there,  and  I  suppose  we  must.  I  am  w^ait- 
ing  to  hear  from  the  Hamburg-American  about  a  stateroom. 

With  much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Anglo-American  Hotel,  Florence, 

April  2 1  St,  1906. 
Dear  Clifford  &  Sam, 

We  have  had  such  a  beautiful  drive  to  Fiesole  this  after- 
noon. Being  unusually  tired  w^e  didn't  feel  like  sightseeing 
and  found  a  Mrs.  Kelly  and  her  young  daughter,  whom  Laura 
met  at  York  Harbor  and  who  crossed  on  the  Celtic  with  us, 
willing  to  share  the  carriage  with  us. 

The  trees  are  all  out  and  there  was  a  continuous  hedge  of 
rose  bushes  in  full  bloom,  also  the  Wistaria  in  bloom.  It  was 
so  warm  that  after  looking  at  the  Roman  theatre  and  baths 
we  went  to  the  Hotel  Aurora,  which  has  a  magnificent  view 
over  Florence  and  had  tea  out  of  doors  and  found  it  as  warm 

as  a  summer  day. 

578 


ITALY 

A  very  slight  tremor  was  felt  here  this  morning.  I  noticed 
my  bed  move  with  a  quick  shake,  but  never  thought  of  its 
being  an  earthquake  until  I  heard  other  people  talking  about 
it.  There  is  great  excitement  and  interest  in  the  San  Fran- 
cisco disaster.  Some  people  here  in  this  Hotel  have  lost 
whole  blocks  of  buildings  and  for  all  they  know  are  ruined. 
It  seems  Impossible  to  get  any  positive  news  about  the  dis- 
aster. 

I  wish  you  could  see  the   superb  automobiles  here,  so  big 


THE  ROMAN  THEATRE  AT  FIESOLE.  NEAR  FLORENCE 

and  fine.  People  arrive  daily  at  the  hotels  by  dozens  in  their 
own  automobiles.  We  are  sure  of  a  stateroom  on  the  Amerika 
May  25th,  but  have  not  been  able  to  get  anything  earlier.  As 
soon  as  I  get  to  Paris  I  will  try  to  get  something  that  may  be 
given  up,  but  I  am  hoping  your  Father  will  not  insist  upon 
our  giving  up  London,  as  it  Is  we  would  only  have  a  few  days 
there. 

My  plan  now  is  to  go  to  Venice  25th  making  a  week  here, 
leaving  Venice  29th  for  Innsbruck,  where  we  would  spend  the 
night,  and  go  on  to  either  Munich  or  Lake  Constance,  getting 

579 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

to  Sigmaringen  the  next  day  and,  after  two  days'  visit  there, 
straight  through  to  Paris  by  night.  That  brings  us  up  to 
May  4th  or  5th. 

To-day  we  went  to  the  old  Bargello,  ancient  Palace  of  the 
Podesta,  which  has  a  beautiful  court  with  outside  staircase, 
which  you  have  often  seen  pictures  of,  full  of  interesting 
things.  Florence  is  very  attractive  and  bright.  The  jewelry 
shops  are  fascinating  on  the  Ponte  Vecchio  and  in  the  late 
afternoon  the  bridge  and  views  over  the  river,  the  crowds  of 
gaily  dressed  people,  make  it  a  most  interesting  sight. 

With  much  love. 

Your  aff.  mother,  M.  D.  R. 

Florence,  April  24th,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  can  take  only  a  moment  from  my  packing  to  tell  you  I 
am  leaving  to-morrow  morning  for  Venice — bought  our  tickets 
all  the  way  to  Paris,  by  Verona,  Brenner  Pass  to  Botzen, 
Innsbruck,  Munich,  Lindau  and  Sigmaringen,  Schaffhausen, 
Zurich  and  Basle  to  Paris. 

I  bought  a  piece  of  jewelry  here  and  thought  I  might  want 
to  use  my  American  Express  checks  in  Germany.  I  think  I 
will  take  a  piece  of  Venetian  glass  to  Countess  Adelmann. 

With  much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  Royal  Danieli,  Venice, 

April  26th,  1906. 

Dear  Frank  and  Boys, 

Yesterday  morning  we  left  Florence  with  rain   threatening 

and  cold.     We  took  a  rather  slow  train  in  order  to  arrive  by 

7.10  instead  of   10  at  night.     Mrs.   Kelly  and    her  daughter 

went  with  us  to  Fiesole  Saturday  afternoon,  a  most  perfect 

day,  and  we  had  lovely  views,  everything  so  beautifully  green 

and  the  purple  wistaria  in  great  clusters  over  the  villas. 

580 


ITALY 

Our  ride  over  the  Apennines  was  most  interesting,  we 
counted  45  tunnels  and  many  viaducts,  and  It  was  quite 
beautiful.  I  gave  up  stopping  at  Bologna  as  it  was  so  rainy 
and  it  would  have  made  such  a  very  long  day.  As  it  was  our 
train  was  late  and  it  was  after  eight  when  we  arrived,  but  not 
raining. 

Venice  is  just  as  surprisingly  beautiful  as  ever  and  crowded 
with  people.  We  enjoyed  waiting  in  the  gondola  while  they 
got    our    baggage — everything    was    an    entrancing    picture. 


DOOR  OF  ST.  MARK'S,  VENICE 


They  had  a  room  ready  at  the  Danieli  and  we  bounced  into 
a  lot  of  people  very  much  dressed  up  and  listening  to  music, 
and  as  soon  as  possible  got  a  bite  to  eat  and  we  went  out  to 
the  Piazza  thinking  that  as  it  was  St.  Mark's  day  there  would 
be  music,  but  found  only  a  crowd  of  people. 

The  Campanile  is  not  built  up  and  there  is  only  an  ugly 
wooden  fence  around  the  spot.  This  morning  we  started  out 
on  foot  and  went  into  the  Doges'  palace  and  it  took  us  two 
hours  to  see  it.     By  giving  Mrs.  Merrick's  name  at  a  lace 

581 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

store  they  took  off  ten  per  cent,  so  I  availed  myself  of  it  and 
got  a  piece  of  rose  point  I  have  long  wanted. 

I  cannot  imagine  anything  more  beautiful  than  Venice — 
it  is  entrancing.  Laura  is  crazy  over  it,  thinking  it  more 
wonderful  than  she  even  expected.  We  went  to  the  St.  Maria 
della  Salute*  and  to  the  Frari  to  see  Canova's  tomb  and  the 
great  Titian  Madonna  enthroned.    The  Frari  was  full  of  scaf- 


THE  BRONZE  HORSES,  ST.  MARK'S 

foldings  and  workmen  and  the  pictures  were  taken  into  a 
neighboring  church,  which  we  had  to  hunt  up.  I  did  not  re- 
member the  great  beauty  of  this  church,  both  exterior  and 
interior.  It  dates  from  the  nth  century  and  the  carvings  in 
tombs,  pulpits  and  screens  are  exquisite. 

We  have  gazed  at  St.  Mark's  from  the  outside  with  wonder 
and  amazement  and  to-morrow  will  enter  and  if  the  day  proves 

•Destroyed  in  1916  by  German  aeroplanes. 

582 


ITALY 

pleasant  will  go  to  the  Lido  in  a  steamboat.  The  latter  are 
everywhere,  and  I  must  say  interfere  with  the  gondolas  and 
the  beauty  of  the  water-way.  The  private  gondolas  are  fas- 
cinating with  their  flags  and  queer  uniforms  of  gondoliers, 
which  match  the  colors  shown  on  the  great  poles  in  front  of 
the  palaces.  This  afternoon  we  saw  Don  Carlos  and  his  wife 
in  a  steam  gondola,  with  Spanish  flag  flying.  They  have  a 
palace  here.  It  seems  to  be  the  thing  to  have  a  home  in  Venice. 
How  I  wish  you  could  all  be  here  to  enjoy  this  place. 
Laura  thinks  this  the  best  of  all  and  that  each  place  is  more 
wonderful  than  the  last.  When  we  came  out  from  dinner  we 
sat  in  a  square  hall  which  has  two  or  three  galleries  above  all 
around  and  there  was  a  very  good  company  of  musicians 
stationed  in  the  second  gallery  above — some  of  them  men, 
and  women  also  sang  very  well,  so  it  was  quite  a  concert.  It 
is  blowing  a  gale  outside  and  doesn't  look  as  if  we  would  get 
to  the  Lido  to-morrow. 

Venice,  April  28th,  1906. 
Dear  F, 

When  I  went  to  notify  the  Concierge  that  I  was  going  to 
take  the  8.20  train  for  Munich  to-morrow  he  asked  me  if  I  had 
engaged  seats  and  I  said  no.  I  didn't  know  that  one  bought 
seats  in  this  country.  He  said  they  were  engaged  weeks  be- 
fore so  he  has  telegraphed  in  great  haste  to  see  what  can  be 
done  and  thinks  I  may  perhaps  get  something  at  Verona, 
where  we  stay  an  hour.  I  can  only  hope  if  I  cannot  get  on 
the  train  to-morrow  that  perhaps  I  may  be  accommodated 
Monday. 

I  can't  believe  so  many  people  can  be  going  to  Munich  at 
this  season.  At  last  the  sun  shines  and  we  have  been  in  a 
gondola  to  Murano  to  see  the  glass  blowers  and  the  Museum. 
The  Venezia  and  Murano  company  sent  us  in  their  gondola. 
The  view  of  the  Alps  was  entrancing,  covered  with  snow. 
I  heard  an  English  lady  say  they  had  just  had  snow  in  Staf- 
fordshire.    We  think  of  going  out  to  the  Lido  this  afternoon. 

583 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Last  night  there  were  plenty  of  middies  in  the  Hotel  as 
the  warship  Drake  was  in  with  Prince  Louis  of  Battenberg, 
who  went  to  the  Hotel  de  I'Europe  where  our  friends  the  Kellys 
are.  The  launches  made  a  great  noise  early  this  morning 
gathering  them  up  as  the  ship  sailed  away  early. 

We  shall  get  no  letters  now  until  Paris,  unless  you  by 
chance  have  written  to  the  Adelmanns.  Hoping  for  good  luck 
at  Verona,  with  much  love  to  all. 

AflFly.,  M.  D.  R. 

The  treasures  of  St.  Mark's  are  inexhaustible  and  it  is  un- 
doubtedly the  most  wonderful,  beautiful  and  interesting 
(architecturally  and  historically)  church  in  the  world.  There 
are  two  wonderful  twisted  translucent  alabaster  columns  said 
to  be  from  the  Temple  of  Solomon.  The  great  "Pala  d'Oro" 
an  altarfront  never  exposed  except  at  Easter  and  to  strangers 
for  money.  Enameled  figures  in  gold  and  silver  and  a  mass  of 
enormous  gems  of  all  kinds  except  diamonds.  There  must  be 
millions  of  money  in  it.  Then  there  is  a  great  slab  of  granite 
from  Mt.  Tabor  and  the  most  ancient  carved  pulpits,  colored 
marbles,  and  it  looks  more  like  a  Jewish  synagogue  than  a 
church. 


GERMANY 

Sigmaringen,  May  2nd,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  hardly  know  how  to  begin,  having  let  two  days  go  by 
without  writing.  We  left  Venice  on  the  29th,  a  beautiful 
summer  morning,  but  on  our  arrival  at  Verona,  when  I  went 
immediately  to  the  Wagons-Lits  I  was  told  that  the  through 
train  to  Munich  was  full,  not  a  seat  to  be  had,  that  he  had  a 
telegram  from  Milan  to  that  effect. 

Well!  I  said  there  are  other  trains  and  I  want  to  go  on  one 
of  them,  as  I  must  be  in  Munich  that  night.  He  then  informed 
me  there  was  no  other  train,  only  a  slow  train  at  6  p.  m. 
which  would  get  to  Munich  the  next  forenoon.  Of  course  I 
wanted  to  cross  the  Brenner  Pass  in  the  daytime  so  Laura 
could  see  the  Alps,  so  I  told  the  man  I  intended  to  go  on  that 
train  and  he  must  find  a  way;  that  they  should  feel  obliged  to 
take  us  when  we  had  telegraphed  two  days  before,  &c. 

I  stuck  right  by  him  until  he  said  my  only  chance  was  that 
there  would  be  some  people  from  the  Hotels  coming  and  he 
could  put  on  another  car.  Finally  other  people  did  come,  but 
they  didn't  all  want  to  go  as  far  as  Munich,  but  you  can  im- 
agine my  relief  when  he  said  he  would  put  on  the  extra  car 
and  gave  me  my  tickets  for  ^9  (45  lire)  extra!  When  it  came 
we  went  immediately  to  lunch  and  then  were  prepared  to  enjoy 
the  scenery  which  was  magnificent.  At  Botzen  we  got  out 
and  bought  the  best  cakes  you  can  imagine  and  had  tea  at  five 
in  our  compartment. 

585 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

The  snow  was  far  down  the  Mts.,  and  when  we  got  to 
Brenner-Bad  the  snow  was  to  be  seen  far  below.  On  our  ar- 
rival at  Munich  Mechtilde's  husband  met  us  in  uniform  and 
escorted  us  to  the  Hotel,  where  we  froze  in  a  big  cold  room 
ail  night  without  heat.  In  the  morning  Mechtilde  came  and 
said  her  mother-in-law  was  coming  at  once  and  wanted  us 
for  lunch.  I  had  accepted  the  night  before  to  Baron  von 
Soden,  but  found  I  should  go  by  the  one  o'clock  fast  train  to 


HOUSE  OF  PEERS,  MUNICH 

Sigmaringen,  otherwise  we  would  have  to  go  by  a  slow  train 
arriving  at  Sigmaringen  at  midnight. 

There  was  to  be  a  grand  affair  in  the  House  of  Peers  at 
ten  o'clock  to  which  they  were  going  and  wished  us  to  go  with 
them.  It  was  the  introduction  of  the  son  of  Prince  Karl 
Theodore  to  the  Peers  on  taking  his  seat  in  the  House. 

The  royal  party  came  in  carriages  and  we  went  up  to  (it 
is  snowing  hard  as  I  write)  the  third  floor  and  entered  a  small 
gallery  at  the  end  of  the  great  hall.  About  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  ladies  were  seated  in  it,  and  before  the  elder  Baroness  sat 

down  she  spoke  and  shook  hands  with  two  ladies  at  our  right 

586 


GERMANY 

and  told  me  it  was  Princess  Karl  Theodore,  a  beautiful  woman 
and  mother  of  the  young  Prince  to  be  presented. 

I  wish  I  could  describe  the  uniforms  and  orders.  The 
Regent  is  88,  too  old  to  be  present,  but  his  son  and  all  the 
young  Princes  were  there  and  the  Ministers  and  the  Peers. 
The  President  and  two  others  sat  at  a  high  desk  and  one  below 
at  a  table.  The  two  marched  down  the  aisle  and  all  the  others 
rose  and  the  young  Prince  Franz  Josef  appeared  between  them 
in  cavalry  officer's  uniform  with  helmet  and  plume. 

The  oath  was  read  to  him  and  he  held  up  his  right  hand 


BURG  ADELMANNSFELDEN,  ELWANGEN,  WURTEMBERG 

and  said  "Ich  schware,"  then  he  brought  his  heels  together 
and  bowed  to  the  President,  then  to  the  Ministers,  then  to  the 
Peers  and  went  and  took  the  seat  next  to  his  Father.  The 
latter  I  was  most  interested  to  see  as  he  is  the  great  oculist 
and  does  a  great  amount  of  good.  The  Princess  helps  him  in 
his  work  and  reads  to  the  blind  people  during  their  recovery. 
She  is  a  grandmother  but  looked  very  young. 

Baron  von  Soden  is  also  a  Peer  of  the  Realm,  which  is  the 
reason  we  sat  in  the  gallery  with  Royalty. 

Count  Adelmann  was  very  much  amused  at  our  having 
only  two  hours  in  Munich  and  getting  in  with  Princes  and 
Princesses. 

587 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

My  tickets  from  Cook  in  Venice  sent  us  by  Lindau  and  I 
found  I  had  to  come  by  Augsburg  and  Ulm,  so  I  went  to  Cook 
and  he  said  they  would  redeem  the  unused  tickets  in  London. 
We  came  in  a  fast  train  arriving  at  4.45 — found  Count  and 
Countess  Adelmann  waiting  for  us  in  the  station  and  Widman 
to  attend  to  the  luggage. 


CASTLE  HOHENZOLLERN.  SIGMARINGEN 


The  trees  are  only  budding  out  and  it  is  wintry  cold,  but 
the  air  is  very  bracing.  Mechtilde  and  her  husband  saw  us  off 
at  Munich  and  gave  us  each  bunches  of  roses. 

It  seemed  very  natural  to  be  walking  up  through  the  Park 
and  garden  with  the  Adelmanns  and  everything  was  as  familiar 
as  possible.  They  have  made  many  little  improvements,  high 
wainscoting  through  the  whole  hall,  modern  plumbing  equip- 
ment, Persian  rug  in  my  bedroom,  &c.,  but  most  of  all, 
every  brass  thing  and  all  the  pewter  mugs  and  steins  were 
polished  like  silver  and  the  floors  thoroughly  waxed. 

They  were  very  much  pleased  with  the  piece  of  Venetian 
glass  I  brought  her  and  Count  Adelmann  said  I  had  excellent 
taste.  I  gave  him  a  photograph  of  a  Botticelli  from  Florence 
which  also  pleased  him.  General  von  Camerer  came  in  the 
afternoon  and  stayed  just  24  hours.    We  all  had  great  fun. 


GERMANY 

Count  Adelmann  is  very  droll.  I  seem  to  understand 
German  better  than  I  used  and  Laura  got  along  famously, 
especially  with  Count  Adelmann.  The  second  evening  Count 
and  Countess  Bruhl  came  to  supper.  She  was  a  Quadt,  sister 
of  Count  Quadt,  who  came  to  Washington,  very  high  rank 
but  very  shy  and  simple — you  probably  remember  him. 

The  next  day  they  sent  their  open  high  carriage  to  take 
us  driving.  It  snowed  hard  four  times  and  after  we  had 
started,  but  we  put  up  our  umbrellas  and  were  rewarded  with 
occasional  views  and  it  cleared  entirely  when  we  got  back  to 
Inzigkofen.  I  missed  the  poor  Prince.*  I  doubt  if  Count 
Adelmann  is  as  happy  as  in  his  lifetime.  The  castle  is  finished 
outside  and  we  saw  some  of  the  new  part.  The  young  Prince 
stays  in  Berlin  where  he  has  a  military  position.  It  is  a  most 
beautiful  castle  and  a  joy  forever  architecturally. 

Baur-au-Lac,  Zurich,  6  P.  M., 

Thurs.  May  3rd. 
We  left  Sigmaringen  this  morning  at  nine  and  changed  at 
Immendingen  and  then  got  the  finest  sleeping   car  through 


RIVER  ALONGSIDE  HOTEL  BAUER  AU  LAC,  ZURICH 


*The  Prince  Leopold  of  Sigmaringen  who  gave  us  a  dinner  in  1897.     He  died  in  Berlin, 

having  gone  to  the  Crown  Prince's  wedding. 

589 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

train  from  Berlin  I  have  ever  seen.  Compartments  perfectly 
ventilated  and  every  detail  perfectly  carried  out.  I  fear  ours 
to-night  will  not  be  so  good. 

I  made  a  mistake  to  buy  my  tickets  beyond  Munich  as  I 
had  to  buy  others.  I  expect  Cook  to  redeem  them.  We  saw 
the  great  ruin  of  Hohentviel  near  Singen  (see  Ekkehard)  and 
had  a  wonderful  view  of  the  Rhine  Falls  at  Schaffhausen,  an 
absolutely  perfect  day  and  very  warm.  We  have  driven  around 
this  place  and  have  seen  the  Landes-Museum  thoroughly, 
with  its  real  mediaeval  rooms  taken  from  different  castles  and 
houses.  We  have  sat  out  on  the  lake  front  and  are  now  ready 
to  take  leave.  I  am  going  to  post  this  from  here  and  must 
let  it  go  now.  Hoping  to  get  a  full  mail  at  Paris  tomorrow 
morning,  with  much  love  to  all. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 


FRANCE 

Hotel  Belmont,  Paris, 

5th  May,  1906. 

Dear  Frank, 

We  left  Sigmaringen  in  the  rain  with  great  regret,  but  it 
cleared  at  Immendingen  and  we  had  a  lovely  view  of  the  Rhine 
Falls  and  arrived  at  Zurich  at  one  o'clock.  As  we  were  not 
to  take  the  sleeping  car  for  Paris  until  9  p.  m.  we  took  lunch 
in  the  station  and  then  drove  around  the  town  and  had  tea 
in  a  tea  shop  and  finished  up  at  the  Baur-au-Lac  and  sat  out 
on  the  lake  front  until  six  and  then  had  dinner  at  the  hotel 
and  took  the  omnibus  back  to  the  station. 

The  ride  to  Paris  was  a  very  rough  and  shaky  one,  altho 
the  stateroom  was  very  comfortable.  We  got  in  at  7.40  and 
quickly  got  a  porter  and  rushed  out  and  secured  a  little  omni- 
bus; then  I  went  back  and  got  the  trunks  through  the  custom 
house  and  in  a  very  short  time  were  on  our  way  to  the  Hotel. 
The  proprietor  received  us  very  politely  and  had  a  small  bed- 
room and  large  salon  ready  for  us,  costing  us  35  francs  a  day 
for  all,  food  included. 

I  went  immediately  to  Harjes'  and  got  two  letters  from 
you  and  one  from  Clifford.  They  told  us  two  gentlemen  had 
just  been  there  to  inquire  but  left  no  name  or  address.  We 
suppose  it  was  Mr.  D.  and  hoped  he  would  have  been  here 

591 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

to-night  but  he  did  not  come.  We  were  terribly  tired,  even 
Sigmaringen  did  not  rest  us,  for  we  talked  so  much  there. 
There  is  some  shopping  to  do  and  we  propose  to  get  through  it 
as  quickly  as  possible  before  doing  any  sightseeing.  It  looks 
quite  hopeless  but  Laura  must  see  some  of  the  galleries  and 
churches. 

I  have  sent  cards  to  the  Bairds  and  Rochambeaus  this  even- 
ing. To-day  has  been  perfectly  beautiful.  I  have  no  clothes  to 
wear  in  the  street  as  my  black  cloth  is  too  heavy  and  it  looks 
like  hard  work  to  get  anything.  Paris  is  so  crowded.  We  have 
not  seen  King  Edward  as  yet. 

Paris,  May  yth,  1906. 

To-day  while  we  were  out  the  Bairds  and  Rochambeaus 
called.  Laura  stayed  in  yesterday.  I  went  to  church  and  when 
I  got  back  Addie  Eads  Hazard  and  her  sister  Mrs.  Howe 
called  and  I  ordered  tea. 

We  went  first  to  the  Invalides  to  see  Napoleon's    tomb, 

then  to  the  Luxembourg  gardens   (the  Museum  was  closed), 

then  we  drove  by  the  Pantheon  and  St  Etienne  du  Mont  and 

then  to  Notre  Dame,  coming  back  by  the  old  Louvre  and  St 

Germain  I'Auxerrois  and  then  to  tea  at  Columbin's.     Much 

love  to  all. 

Your  aif.,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  Belmont,  Paris, 

May  8th,  1906. 
Dear  Clifford, 

I  have  your  letter  of  April  22nd  and  note  what  you  say. 
To-day  we  had  tea  at  Rumpelmeyer's  on  the  Rue  de  Rivoli 
after  a  hard  day's  work  at  dressmaker's.  When  we  got  back 
to  the  hotel  we  found  the  Marquise  de  Rochambeau  had 
called  and  also  Lord  Berwick  and  Miss  Noel-Hill. 

It  is  too  bad  but  we  cannot  sit  in  the  house  this  beautiful 
weather  in  order  to  see  people!  There  was  a  heavy  hail  storm 
while  we  were  in  a  carriage  and  we  were  obliged  to  sit  still 

592 


FRANCE 

until  it  passed  over.  Lord  Berwick  called  early  which  I  think 
indicated  he  tried  to  find  us  in,  for  of  course  every  one  is  out 
in  the  late  afternoon.  I  think  I  shall  return  their  call  at  an, 
hour  when  there  is  some  prospect  of  finding  them  at  home. 

I  want  to  get  to  Versailles  and  Fontainebleau  if  possible 
and  we  must  drive  once  in  the  Bois  de  Boulogne.  I  am  very 
tired  and  must  get  to  bed.  We  shall  go  to  London  either  i6th 
or  17th  May  and  sail  from  Dover  25th,  and  will  soon  be  home. 
Tell  the  girls  to  get  the  house  entirely  dismantled  and  give 
my  love  to  all  the  family.  Hoping  to  see  you  all  soon,  with 
much  love.  Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  Belmont,  Paris,  13th  of  May,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

Such  a  busy  few  days  as  I  have  put  in  trying  to  give  Laura 
some  idea  of  Paris,  getting  a  few  clothes  and  trying  to  see 
friends!  Yesterday  we  spent  the  entire  day  at  Versailles  and 
it  was  the  first  really  warm  sunshiny  whole  day  for  some  time. 
We  took  a  train  from  the  Pont  de  I'Alma  and  had  to  drive  a 
mile  to  the  Trianons  where  we  also  walked  in  the  Park  and  saw 
the  thatched  houses  of  Marie  Antoinette's  Laiterie.  Then  we 
had  lunch  at  the  Hotel  des  Reservoirs,  formerly  the  residence 
of  Mme.  de  Pompadour. 

It  was  all  ideally  beautiful.  Going  out  of  the  back  of  the 
Hotel  we  were  at  once  in  the  Park  and  walked  up  the  shady 
avenue  to  the  Palace  where  we  spent  three  hours  and  then  took 
a  cup  of  tea  in  the  garden  of  the  same  Hotel  before  returning 
to  town  hot  and  tired. 

The  night  before  we  went  to  the  Grand  Opera  and  saw  a 
really  magnificent  performance  of  Samson  and  Delilah  with 
Alvarez  as  Samson  and  Mme.  Heglou  as  Delilah.  The  latter 
had  a  superb  contralto  voice  and  was  also  beautiful.  The 
music  is  lovely  and  well  interpreted  by  a  very  large  orchestra 
— the  chorus  was  perfect  and  "mise-en-scene"  faultless.  With 
all  that  a  superb  ballet  which  gave  a  sort  of  pantomime  ballet 
after  the  Opera  and  you  can  imagine  how  fine  it  was. 
38  593 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Two  Hindoo  women  in  most  gorgeous  gold  embroidered 
veils  and  clothes  sat  near  us.  We  walked  out  between  the 
acts  so  Laura  could  see  the  house  and  had  some  orangeades 
and  cake  between  the  Opera  and  Ballet,  arriving  home  after 
one  o'clock.     You  see  how  independent  we  are. 

The  night  before  we  had  seen  the  Cid  at  the  "Fran^ais" 
beautifully  acted,  but  we  were  glad  to  stay  in  last  night. 
This  morning  we  made  a  good  start  and  went  to  St.  Sulpice, 


AVENUE  DU  BOIS  DE  BOULOGNE,  PARIS 

where  Widor  is  the  organist  and  heard  magnificent  playing  of 
real  church  music,  a  fugue  of  Bach's  played  to  perfection. 
After  service  we  walked  over  to  the  Luxembourg  Gallery  and 
saw  its  contents,  then  I  stopped  at  the  Madeleine  to  let  Laura 
walk  through  it  and  then  home. 

We  fixed  up  a  bit  and  went  to  Mrs.  Hazard's  to  lunch 
where  her  sister  Mrs.  Howe  is  staying.  Her  son  is  in  the 
Latin  Quarter  with  a  young  Mr.  Tilson  who  is  studying  the 
organ  with  Widor  and  a  young  artist  Mr.  Cobb  who  were  all 

594 


FRANCE 

at  lunch,  as  well  as  Mrs.  McKinley  and  her  niece  Miss  Filley, 
so  we  had  a  very  gay  lunch.  I  was  glad  for  Laura  to  meet 
some  young  people. 

I  had  a  carriage  come  for  us  to  drive  to  the  Bois  but  none 
of  the  party  could  go  along  so  we  went  alone,  and  as  Mrs. 
Hazard  gave  us  tickets  for  the  Puteaux  Club,  Isle  de  Puteaux, 
we  drove  there  at  once,  passing  through  Neuilly.  The  Put- 
eaux Club  is  the  swellest  in  Paris  and  as  on  Sunday  the  other 
resorts  are  filled  with  objectionable  people  it  was  delightful 
to  be  able  to  go  there.  We  had  to  cross  the  river  in  the  queerest 
little  flat  ferry  boats  that  ran  on  a  cable  by  a  crank. 

The  island  was  beautifully  green  and  we  were  early  enough 
to  get  a  good  table  and  watch  the  crowd  of  French,  English 
and  Americans.  Mrs.  Cornelius  Vanderbilt  and  Gladys  came. 
They  didn't  seem  to  know  any  more  people  than  we  did.  After 
a  stay  of  an  hour  we  came  away. 

We  took  the  usual  drive  around  the  Cascade  and  the  Lakes 
and  with  the  chestnut  trees  in  full  bloom,  some  white  and 
some  pink,  you  can  imagine  how  beautiful  the  Park  was.  Un- 
fortunately the  automobiles  making  such  noises  and  smells 
ruin  it  all.  To-morrow  I  have  asked  the  Rochambeaus  and 
Mrs.  Hazard  and  Mrs.  Howe  to  have  tea  at  the  Ritz,  and  we 
are  to  dine  with  the  Marquise  Wednesday  evening,  our  last  in 
Paris.  Mrs.  Baird  asked  us  to  have  tea  with  her  Saturday 
but  we  had  to  go  to  Versailles  and  I  asked  her  for  to-morrow 
but  through  a  misunderstanding  of  the  maid  she  thought  we 
were  going  to  her.  Thursday  morning  we  go  to  Dover,  stay- 
ing over  night  so  as  to  see  it  and  go  on  to  Canterbury  Cathedral, 
arriving  in  London  Friday  night,  the  i8th,  and  then  we  come 
back  to  Dover  to  sail  25th.  How  glad  I  shall  be  to  see  you  all 
again  and  hope  you  will  meet  us  in  New  York. 

With  much  love  to  you  all. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 


ENGLAND 


Lord  Warden  Hotel,  Dover, 

May  17th,  1906. 

Dear  Frank  and  Boys, 

We  left  Paris  this  morning  early  and  had  a  very  comfort- 
able and  quiet  but  cold  trip  across  the  Channel  and  are  look- 
ing forward  to  a  good  night's  rest. 

Yesterday  was  a  very  full  day.  I  met  Mrs.  Baird  and  was 
presented  to  Mme.  Marchesi,  who  was  more  than  kind  in  her 
reception  of  us.  Then  I  met  Mrs.  Hazard  and  Mrs.  Howe 
down  town  and  all  went  to  Viau's  for  lunch.  Then  we  flew 
home  to  pack  and  in  the  midst  of  it  M.  d'Aillieres  and  Baron 
Boulay  de  la  Meurthe  appeared  at  six  and  we  had  to  see  them. 
They  were  full  of  gratitude  for  our  attention  to  them  in 
America.  I  was  sorry  I  did  not  let  them  know  at  once  we 
were  in  Paris,  for  when  I  did  at  last  they  were  out  of  town 
and  came  at  once  on  their  return. 

We  had  a  warm  reception  at  the  Rochambeau's  at  dinner 
and  we  all  four  (the  Count  and  Countess)  packed  into  a  Vic- 
toria and  came  home  together.  They  could  not  have  been 
more  cordial.  Both  they  and  the  young  Frenchmen  sent  their 
kindest  greetings  to  you  and  the  boys,  Fanny  and  Joe,  Lena 
and  Betty.     I  do  hope  it  will  be  a  little  warmer  for  our  trip 

596 


ENGLAND 


DOVER  CASTLE 


A  BIT  OF  CANTERBURY 

597 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

to  Canterbury  tomorrow.     I  am  so  very  tired  I  must  beg  off 
and  am  looking  forward  to  being  together  again  so  very  soon. 
Hoping  you  are  all  well  and  things  going  on  all  right. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 


C A  XT  ER BU  R V  C ATH  E  URA  L 


The  Hotel  Metropole,  London, 

May  2 1  St,  1906. 
Dear  Frank, 

This  is  my  last  letter  before  sailing  and  yours  arrived  this 
afternoon.    I  do  hope  Clifford  will  not  go  West  before  I  get  back. 

I  have  tried  to  arrange  to  go  to  Oxford,  but  the  weather 
has  been  so  bad  I  have  just  written  Katy  we  cannot  go. 
Lena's  friend  Mrs.  Greenall  has  invited  us  to  lunch  with  her 
at  the  Empress  Club  Wednesday. 

Please  be  at  the  ship.    I  must  get  to  bed  so  good-bye,  with 

much  love. 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

598 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1910 


FROM  THE  OIL  PORTRAIT  BY  ALICE  KENT  STODDARD 


aHAaaoT8  tv.sx  aouA  Ya  TiAHXiioq  jio  aiiT  uo^i-i 


THE  JOURNEYS  OF  1910 

Steamship  "Cedric,"  to  the  Azores,  Ponta  Delgada,  Madeira, 
Gibraltar,  Algeciras,  Naples;  Sorrento,  Ravello,  Rome,  Assisi, 
Perugia,  Florence,  Ravenna,  Ferrara,  Padua,  Venice,  Abbazia, 
Trieste,  Fiume,  Trau,  Spalato,  Dalmatian  Coast,  Zara,  Zara 
Vecchio,  Zebenico,  Falls  of  Krka,  Salona,  Clissa,  Ragusa, 
Bocche  de  Cattaro,  Mostar,  Zablanika,  Sarajevo,  Gorge  of 
the  Varenta,  Jablanica,  Herzegovina,  Bosnia,  Jayce,  Across 
the  Balkans,  Banjaluka,  Gorge  of  the  Urbas,  Agram,  Buda 
Pesth,  Vienna,  Salzburg,  Munich,  Sigmaringen,  Chiemsee, 
Zurich,  Paris,  Aboard  the  "Cincinnati"  and  home. 


INDEX  TO  LETTERS  OF  1910 


Aboard  S.  S.  Cedric Feb.  i6, 

J.  Pierpont  Morgan Feb.  l6, 

Interesting  stewardess.  .  .Feb.  20, 
Sunshine  and  heat  cross- 
ing Gulf  Stream Feb.  20, 

Ponta   Delgada Feb.  23, 

Beautiful   gardens   and 

birds Feb.  23, 

Jesuit  church Feb.  23 , 

Bullock  carts Feb.  25, 

Sledges  back  to  town .  .  .  .Feb.  25, 

Strawberries Feb.  25, 

Diving  natives Feb.  25, 

Mr.  Morgan  buys  birds.  .Feb.  25, 

Gibraltar Feb.  28, 

Algeciras Feb.  28, 

Spanish  Hotel Feb.  28, 

The  Alameda Feb.  28, 

Usual  Gibraltar  oranges.  .Feb.  28, 

Sorrento Mar.  5, 

Delightful  sunny  weather  Mar.  5, 

Naples Mar.  5, 

Stone    docks    built    since 

former  visit Mar.  5, 

New  grotto,  Solfatara, 
Pozzuoli,  Lerapeum, 
Baise,  Lake  Avernus, 
Grotto       of       Cumsan 

Sybil Mar.  5, 

Falernian  Hill,  promon- 
tory of  Nisida Mar.  5, 

Sleeping  under  mosquito 

nets Mar.  5, 

Ravello Mar.  8, 

Beautiful  beyond  descrip- 
tion  Mar.  8, 

Amalfi Mar.  8, 

Palazzo  delli  Afflitili Mar.  8, 

Palazzo  Rufolo Mar.  8, 

Sir  James  Lacaito Mar.  8, 

Influence  of  the  Saracens 

in  architecture Mar.  8, 

Daffodils,      violets       and 

primroses Mar.  8, 

Cembrone Mar.  8, 

Perfect  place  to  rest Mar.  8, 

Naples Mar.  1 2, 

La  Cava Mar.  12, 

•Celebrating  birthday.  .  .  .Mar.  12, 

Fine  cooking Mar.12, 

Rome,  Palace  Hotel Mar.15, 

Opera     of    "Iris,"     Mas- 

cagni  conducting Mar.15, 

Janiculum,     Villa     Borg- 

hese,  and  the  Pincian.  .Mar.15, 


1900 
I9IO 
I9IO 

607 
608 
608 

I9IO 
I9IO 

608 
609 

I9I0 

610 

I9IO 

610 

I9IO 

610 

I9IO 

611 

I9IO 

612 

I9IO 

612 

I9IO 

612 

I9IO 
I9IO 
I9I0 
I9I0 
I9IO 

613 

614 
614 

614 

614 

I9IO 
I9I0 
I9I0 

615 
615 
616 

I9IO  616 


I9I0 

617 

I9IO 

617 

I9IO 

617 

I9I0 

618 

I9IO 

618 

I9I0 

618 

I9I0 

618 

I9I0 

618 

I9I0 

618 

I9I0 

618 

I9I0 

618 

I9IO 

619 

I9IO 

619 

I9IO 

620 

I9I0 

620 

I9I0 

621 

I9IO 

621 

I9I0 

621 

I9IO  622 

I9I0  622 

I9I0  623 

I9I0  623 

I9I0  624 

I9I0  625 


I9I0  627 

I9I0  627 

I9IO  627 

I9I0  627 


Pantheon,  Raphael's 

Sybils Mar.  16, 

Palace  of  Prince  Massimo  Mar.  16, 
Appian  Way  to  St.  Paul's 

Basilica A'Iar.i6, 

Lectures  of  Prof.  Renaud  Mar.20, 
Grand    Hotel     (Brufani), 

Perugia Mar.23, 

Vatican,  Baron  d'Isola.  .  .Mar.23, 
Assisi,    Spello    and    Spo- 

leto Mar.23,  1910    626 

Florence,  Anglo  American 

Hotel Mar. 

Excursion  to  Grassina. . .  .Mar. 
Good   Friday  procession. Mar. 

OflF  to  Bologna Mar. 

Ravenna,    Bryon    Palace 

Hotel Mar.30,  1910    630 

Early      Christian      relics 

sarcophagi    and    mosa- 
ics  Mar.30,  1910    632 

Churches    of    San    Vitale 

and  San  Appolian Mar. 

Tomb  of  Galla  Placidia.  .Mar. 
Venice,   Hotel   de     L'Eu- 

rope Apr. 

Ferrara,  old  Castello Apr. 

"Burrasca"  a  hard  storm  Apr. 
Padua,  Palazzo  del  Rag- 

ione   Apr. 

Church  of  St.  Anthony  of 

Padua Apr. 

Superb    tombs     and     bas 

reliefs  by  Donatello..  .  .Apr. 
Sunset  on  the  Fagade  of 

St.  Marks Apr. 

Abbazia Apr. 

Bora  blowing Apr. 

Trieste  reminds  of  Hom- 

bourg Apr. 

Abbazia  Kursaal Apr. 

Trau  near  Spalato Apr. 

Beautiful      scenery      and 

architecture Apr. 

Wonderful        giant-like 

men Apr. 

Spalato,      Grand      Hotel 

Bellevue Apr. 

Fiume Apr. 

Velebit  Mts Apr. 

Zara,  very  beautiful  and 

gay.: Apr. 

Good  hotels Apr. 

Beautiful       churches      in 

1910    622  Zara...._ Apr. 

Porta  Marina  and  lovely 
1910    622  Roman  bits Apr. 

603 


.30, 
■30, 

I9I0 
I9IO 

632 
632 

4. 
4, 
4, 

I9I0 
I9I0 
I9IO 

633 
633 
633 

4, 

1 910 

634 

4, 

I9I0 

634 

4, 

I9I0 

634 

4, 
10, 
10, 

I9I0 
I9IO 
I9I0 

634 

63s 

10, 
10, 
15. 

I9IO 
I9IO 
I9IO 

63s 
63s 
636 

15. 

I9I0 

636 

IS, 

I9I0 

637 

IS> 
15- 
15. 

I9I0 
I9IO 
I9I0 

637 
637 
637 

iS> 

15. 

I9IO 
I9I0 

637 

638 

IS. 

I9I0 

638 

•  15- 

,  I9I0 

638 

INDEX 


Marvelous  costumes  of  the 

men Apr.  15,  1910 

Sebenico    and   Zara    Vec- 

chio Apr.  15,  1910 

Aboard  the  S.  S.  "Split" 

Croat  for  Spalato Apr.  15,  1910 

Sebenico,    different    from 

Zara Apr.  15,  1910 

Magnificent  Duomo Apr.  15,  1910 

P'alls  of  Krka Apr.  15,  1910 

Spalato Apr.  15,  1910 

Diocletian's  Palace Apr.  15,  1910 

Roman  Palace  and  DuomoApr.  15,  1910 
Diocletian's  Mausoleum.  .Apr.  15,  1910 
A  city  inside  of  a  palace.  .Apr.  15,  1910 
Old    town     and     modern 

city Apr.  15,  1910 

Real  tombs  of  the  mar- 
tyrs of  the  early  Chris- 
tian church Apr.  15,  1910 

Clissa Apr.  15,  1910 

Trau Apr.  15,  1910 

Most  perfect  cathedral  .  .Apr.  15,  1910 
Old     Venetian     Fort     of 

Camerlango Apr.  15,  1910 

Exquisite  views Apr.  15,  1910 

Lovely  hedges  of  haw- 
thorn       and        purple 

flowers Apr.  15,  1910 

Aboard  a  Hungarian- 
Croatian  boat Apr.  15,  1910 

The     Jader,      a      typical 

Dalmatian  River Apr.  15,  1901 

Ragusa Apr.  17,  1910 

Grand  Hotel  Imperial Apr.  17,  1910 

Ragusa  more  perfect  than 

expected Apr.  17,  1910 

Old     Town,     with     great 

round  towers Apr.  17,  1910 

Ivy  covered,  and  gor- 
geous flowers Apr.  17,  1910 

Men  all  still  giants Apr.  17,  1910 

Like    Opera     Bouffe,     so 

unreal Apr.  17,  1910 

The  Brisalje Apr.  17,  1910 

All  luxury  and  no  priva- 
tions  Apr.  17,  1910 

The  Misses  Thackeray.  .  .Apr.  22,  1910 

Cettinje Apr.  22,  1910 

Albanian  Mountains Apr.  22,  1910 

Lake  Scutari Apr.  22,  1910 

Montenegro Apr.  22,  1910 

Mostar Apr.  23,  1910 

A  Turkish  town Apr.  23,  1910 

Absolutely   beautiful   and 

interesting Apr.  23,  1910 

Narenta  River Apr.  23,  1910 

Very  picturesque,  full  of 

Mosques  and  Turks.  .  .Apr.  23,  1910 

Jablanica Apr.  23,  1910 

Sarajevo,  Hotel  Europe.  .Apr.  25,  1910 


638 

639 

639 

639 
639 
640 
641 
641 
641 
641 
641 

641 


642 
642 
642 
642 

643 
643 


643 

643 

643 
643 
643 

643 

644 

644 
644 

644 
644 

646 
647 
647 
647 
647 
647 
647 
647 

647 
647 


Miss  Thackeray,  niece 
of  the  great  author  . . .  .Apr. 

Rack  and  pinion  rail- 
way ride Apr. 

Over  the  Karst Apr. 

Mostar  and  the  Narenta 
River Apr. 

Roinerbruckc Apr. 

Constant  parade  of  beauti- 
ful costumes Apr. 

First  Mohammedan  town 
and  veiled  women Apr. 

Austrian  officers  and 
soldiers Apr. 

Marvellous  costumes  of 
native  women Apr. 

Women  in  trousers Apr. 

Hot  weather  lunching 
out  doors Apr. 

The  elite  of  Mostar Apr. 

Jablanica  and  the  Gorge 
of  Narenta Apr. 

Lovely  Inn  and  Garden.  .Apr. 

Nightingales  all  night. .  .  .Apr. 

Crossing  the  border  of 
Herzegovina  to  Bosnia. Apr. 

Seeing  Turks Apr. 

Crossing  high  mountain 
range Apr. 

Sarajevo  a  large  town, 
quite  up-to-date Apr. 

Officers  singing  "Gaudea- 
mus  igitur" Apr. 

Sarajevo Apr. 

Museum,  Costumes  of 
Bosnia  and  Croatia. .  .  .Apr. 

Curious  sensation  of  stay- 
ing in  a  place  never 
heard  of Apr. 

Automobiles  and  electric 
lights Apr. 

Old  bronchial  trouble, 
American  pharyngitis  .  .Apr. 

Jayce,  beautiful  ride  from 
Sarajevo May 

Turkish  villages  through 
Bosnia May 

Gorgeous  waterfall  at 
Jayce May 

Gorge  of  the  Urbas May 

Banjaluka,  Agram May 

Curious  costumes  of  the 
men May 

Budapest,  Grand  Hotel 
Hungaria May 

The  "Burg"  Emperor's 
castle May 

Margarten-Insel May 

All  sign  boards  in  Hun- 
garian Language May 

Rain  at  Budapest May 

Comic  Opera  "Graf  von 
Luxemburg" May 


25,  1910  648 


25, 
25, 

I9I0 
I9I0 

649 
649 

25, 
25, 

1910 
I9IO 

649 
649 

25, 

I9I0 

649 

25, 

I9I0 

650 

25, 

I9I0 

650 

25, 

25, 

I9IO 
I9IO 

650 
650 

25, 
25, 

I9I0 
I9IO 

650 
650 

25, 
25, 
25, 

I9IO 
I9I0 
I9IO 

650 
650 
650 

25, 

25, 

I9IO 
I9I0 

650 

651 

25, 

I9I0 

651 

25, 

I9I0 

651 

25, 
26, 

I9I0 
I9I0 

651 
651 

26,  I9I0  651 


26, 
26, 
26, 


I9IO  651 

I9IO  651 

I9I0  651 

I9I0  653 

I9I0  653 

I9IO  653 

I9IO  653 

I9IO  653 

I9IO  654 

I9I0  654 

I9I0  654 

I9I0  655 

I9IO  655 

I9IO  656 

4,  1910  657 


604 


INDEX 


Faust  at  the  Grand  OperaAiay 

Hof  Burg May 

Tyrol,  Linz,  Salzburg.. .  .May 
Munich,      Grand      Hotel 

Continental May 

Glad  to  get  out  of  savage 

Europe May 

Joy    at    reaching    a    good 

hotel May 

Vienna May 

Rain  and  bitter  cold May 

Munich May 

Schonbrunn May 

Picture        Gallery        and 

Frauen  Kirche May 

Alte  Residenz May 

Death  of  King  Edward  a 

shock May 

Sigmaringen May 

Chiemsee May 

Visit  to  Graf  Adelmann.  .May 


4, 

1910 

6S7 

4, 

1910 

6S7 

4, 

1910 

658 

S, 

1910 

658 

5. 

1910 

6S8 

S, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

659 

8, 

1910 

660 

14. 

1910 

661 

The  Castle  finished May  14, 

Paris,  Hotel  de  Crillon.  .May  14, 
Hotel    former    Palace    of 

Due  de  Polignac May  14, 

Secured   passage  on   Cin- 
cinnati for  May  27th  .  .May  14, 
Pre  Catalan  and  Armen- 

onville May  14, 

Hotel  de  Crillon May  16, 

Versailles May  16, 

Hordes  of  automobiles.  .  .May  16, 
Hideous  fashions  in  Paris  May  16, 
Tea  with  Countess  Rene 

de  Rochambeau May  19, 

Marquise  de  Rochambeau  May  19, 
Lunch  for  Mrs.  Gorton  at 

Durands May  19, 

Play       "L'Attaque       du 
Moulin"  by  Erckmann- 

Chatrian May  19, 

Mme.     Delna,     a     great 

contralto May  19, 

Home  on  the  "Cincinnati"  May  19, 


1910  661 

1910  661 

1910  662 

1910  662 

1910  663 

1910  664 

1910  664 

1910  664 

1910  665 

1910  665 

1910  666 

1910  667 


1 9 10  667 

1910  667 
1910  667 


EN  ROUTE 

On  board  S.  S.  "Cedric"  off  New  York, 
Dear  Frank:  Wednesday,  February  i6,  1910. 

The  mail  leaves  in  ten  minutes  and  I  have  been  standing 


ABOARD  THE  "CEDRIC" 

in  line  ever  since  you  left.     I  hope  you  saw  us,  but  we  could 
not  see  you,  try  as  we  might.     You  will  be  amused  to  learn 


6o7 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

that  Pierpont  Morgan  is  on  board;  no  doubt  that  is  why  they 
would  not  furnish  a  Hst  until  the  ship  started. 

The  sun  is  shining  brightly  and  all  is  pleasant.  Tell  all  I 
could  not  write  on  account  of  having  to  be  so  long  in  line.  I 
shall  now  go  down  and  get  out  rugs  and  cushions  and  neces- 
sary things,  and  hope  to  spend  the  afternoon  on  my  chair, 
which  is  not  on  the  highest  deck,  but  the  second  one. 

With  much  love,  and  thanks  for  your  great  generosity, 

Yours  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S. — I  shall  write  you  often,  but  it  will  be  three  weeks 
before  you  can  hear  from  us.  Try  to  get  Laura  to  go  to  see 
"Griseledis." 

Onboard  S.  S.  "Cedric," 
Sunday,  February  20th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

Here  I  am  writing  for  the  first  time  in  the  writing  room. 
I  have  been  in  to  dinner  for  the  first  time  since  Wednesday; 
yet  I  have  not  had  the  slightest  twinge  of  sea-sickness  and 
I  attribute  it  to  the  Metchnikoff  tablets,  as  I  don't  see  how 
it  could  be  anything  else. 

This  ship  is  wonderfully  steady  and  there  is  practically  no 
motion  at  all  and  we  have  had  the  hall  port-hole  open  most  ot 
the  time.  Our  stewardess  is  most  attentive  and  is  quite  an 
interesting  person,  the  wife  of  an  English  clergyman  who  died 
of  consumption,  and  she  was  obliged  to  do  something  to  stave 
off  a  similar  condition.  We  have  been  either  in  our  chairs  on 
deck  or  in  bed  and  have  not  met  anyone.  It  is  not  nearly  as 
gay  as  on  the  Celtic. 

We  land  in  the  Azores  on  Tuesday  morning.  Have  had  sun- 
shine every  day  and  were  uncomfortably  warm  crossing  the 
Gulf  Stream,  which  we  are  out  of  today.  We  shall  be  glad  to 
get  on  land  for  a  while,  but  the  time  will  not  seem  long  from 
now  on.  I  can't  get  over  it,  that  in  spite  of  my  fatigued  con- 
dition, I  have  not  had  a  touch  of  seasickness. 

The  Captain  has  not  taken  any  notice  of  us,  but  the  Second 

Steward  sent  us  word  that  we  could  have  anything  cooked  to 

608 


EN  ROUTE 

order.  We  found  Betty's  basket  of  fruit  a  veritable  treasure 
house,  and  a  delightful  box  of  candy  from  Mrs.  Jordan.  I 
shall  write  to  both.  We  sit  at  the  first  table  from  the  door  and 
Pierpont  Morgan  has  the  small  table  in  the  outer  corner.  I 
shall  probably  write  you  about  our  landing  at  the  Azores  and 
Madeira  before  closing  this,  so  will  just  say  good  night. 

Onboard  S.  S.  "Cedric" 
Wednesday,  February  23rd,  1910. 
Dear  F. 

This  is  just  like  sailing  on  a  river,  there  is  so  little  motion, 
and  the  sunshine  is  hot.  We  are  expecting  to  land  at  Madeira 
to-morrow  to  spend  the  day.    Yesterday  we  spent  three  or  four 


PONTA    DELGADE 

hours  at  Ponta  Delgade,  Isle  of  San  Miguel,  Azores.  It  had 
been  very  stormy  on  Monday  and  we  feared  we  would  not  be 
allowed  to  land,  but  a  north  wind  cleared  the  sky  and  the  sun 
shone  out  hot. 

We  went  ashore  with  some  people  we  did  not  know  and  a 
gentleman  joined  us  in  a  carriage  for  an  hour.    He  turned  out 
to  be  a  Mr.  Gorton,  of  Chicago. 
39  609 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  went  first  to  a  wonderful  tropical  garden  filled  with  fern 
palms  and  rubber  trees,  camellias  and  frisia;  and  wonderful 
tropical  birds  were  singing  with  all  their  might.  It  was  like  a 
little  glimpse  of  heaven  or  the  Garden  of  Eden.  We  saw  a 
curious  Jesuit  church  with  wonderful  deep  wood  carvings;  the 
whole  chancel  being  filled  with  them,  also  immense  landscapes 
made  entirely  of  old  Spanish  tiles. 

W^hen  we  landed  we  came  with  tw^o  turns  of  the  small  boat. 
Where  the  arches  are  is  a  building  covered  with  old  blue  tiles 
and  the  arches  covered  a  walk,  and  on  each  side  steps  led  down 
to  the  water.  The  gallery  was  filled  with  peasant  men  and 
women  with  the  gayest  colored  handkerchiefs  and  aprons,  caps, 
etc.  Then  off  to  the  left  the  ship  entrance  from  the  landing  to 
the  main  street  was  through  three  pointed  arches  decorated 
with  the  Portuguese  coat  of  arms,  making  a  very  picturesque 
effect  from  the  water. 

We  drove  up  to  Mrs.  Brown's  where  Laura  and  I  had  lunch 
in  1906  and  they  told  us  they  were  not  prepared  and  could  not 
give  us  any  lunch,  but  they  recommended  us  to  another  place 
in  the  town  and  we  got  an  omelette  and  some  little  birds  and 
fruit.    Most  of  the  ship  people  came  there. 

An  elderly  woman  at  Pierpont  Morgan's  table,  who  seems 
to  keep  them  all  amused,  judging  by  the  shouts  of  laughter 
after  her  speeches,  is  a  Miss  De  Puyster  Carey.  These  are  all 
the  people  we  have  learned  to  know  by  name.  Friday  I  will 
tell  you  about  our  day  in  Madeira.  Now  I  am  tired  and  will 
go  out  on  deck. 

Madeira,  February  25th,  1910. 

Such  a  heavenly  day  as  we  had  yesterday.     The  sun  was 

hot  and  strong  and  the  air  just  cool  enough  to  temper  it.    We 

landed  at  Madeira  in  steam  launches  and  took  the  bullock 

carts  up  to  the  railroad  station  and  found  a  train  just  starting. 

We  went  through  banana  groves  and  palms  and  fern  palms, 

and  saw  exquisite  gardens  with  giant  trumpet  flower  vines  in 

full  bloom;  also  bougainvillea  in  great  masses,  wall  flowers, 

acacia  trees  in  full  bloom,  and  every  one  was  charmed. 

610 


EN  ROUTE 

I  hope  sometime  to  spend  a  month  here  in  this  perfect 
chmate.  We  walked  in  the  gardens  of  two  hotels  where  there 
were  fountains  and  large  bushes  of  white  azaleas,  and  wonder- 
ful views  of  the  water,  2000  feet  below;  then  we  each  got  in 
hammocks  and  were  carried  on  narrow  paths  higher  up  to  the 
church  for  the  view,  and  then  to  the  hotel,  where  we  lunched. 


GLORIOUS   MADEIRA 


Some  of  the  ship's  stewards  had  been  sent  up  to  wait  on  us, 

and  we  ate  out  of  doors  with  odors  of  Araby,  and  the  finest 

views  in  the  world.     And  Sam  said  we  would  be  cold;  how  I 

wish  you  could  all  be  here  with  us. 

After  lunch  we  sledged  down  to  the  town  again  and  then 

took  a  bullock  cart  up  to  the  Casino  and  back.    Then  we  sat 

down  at  little  tables  on  the  street  leading  to  the  water   and 

611 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

had  tea,  and  it  was  so  gay.  Mr.  Bodine  was  with  us  and  we 
bought  strawberries,  which  fortunately  we  did  not  eat,  as  the 
moment  Morton  saw  us  he  made  us  throw  them  overboard  for 
fear  of  typhoid,  as  there  were  some  cases  at  one  of  the  hotels 
at  Madeira. 

It  is  all  much  gayer  than  when  we  were  here  before,  streets 
filled  with  people  sitting  and  walking,  parrots  and  macaws 
screaming,  new  hotels  and  lovely  parks,  bastions,  flowers  and 


MADEIRA 

sunlight.  The  contrast  with  my  last  sight  ot  Philadelphia  is 
too  great  to  admit  of  description. 

When  we  came  on  board,  the  decks  were  covered  with 
natives  selling  all  sorts  of  things,  and  boys  were  diving  for 
money,  some  climbing  way  up  to  the  highest  deck  and  diving 
from  there.     Everybody  was  entranced  and  hated  to  leave. 

Mr.  Morgan  has  bought  birds  at  both  the  Azores  and  here 

and  has  his  room  full.    He  has  a  great  aviary,  one  great  cage, 

in  his  home  in  New  York,  and  just  turns  them  loose  in  it.     I 

never  see  him  on  deck,  only  at  his  meals.     One  lady  at  his 

table  is  going  to  Dalmatia  in  April,  taking  only  her  maid. 

Perhaps  we  shall  meet  her,  but  I  do  not  rely  upon  that. 

612 


EN  ROUTE 

Even  at  night  we  have  the  fresh  air  blowing  in  our  faces 
and  we  dress  with  port-holes  open. 

I  feel  it  such  a  pity  that  you  are  all  breathing  that  foul 
Philadelphia  air  when  you  might  be  here.  Will  write  after 
Gibraltar  telling  our  experiences  there.  This  ship  is  so  high 
out  of  the  water  that  it  is  amazing  it  don't  roll  more,  but  I 
haven't  a  qualm. 

Much  love  to  all  and  hoping  to  hear  soon.  Have  written 
Morgan  Harjes  to  send  Mail  to  Naples  to  Thos.  Cook  &  Son. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

On  board  S.  S.  "Cedric"  Sailing  from  Gibraltar, 
Monday,  February  28th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  should  have  written  yesterday  to  tell  you  of  our  day  at 
Gilbraltar,  but  it  was  so  rough  that  almost  as  soon  as  I  was  up 
I  had  to  go  back  to  bed  to  avoid  being  actively  seasick.  About 
noon,  as  soon  as  we  got  under  the  shore  of  Sardinia,  it  quieted 
down  and  I  got  a  nice  salt  bath  and  dressed,  and  now  they 
are  going  to  have  a  dance  on  deck,  and  we  land  early  in  the 
morning  at  Naples. 

Our  day  at  Gibraltar  was  quite  different  from  what  we 
planned.  Billy  Neilson  had  told  Maria  that  General  Oman 
would  probably  send  out  a  tug  for  us  to  take  us  ashore  and 
entertain  us,  so  we  were  ready  early,  prepared  for  anything. 
The  enquiry  man  told  me  there  was  a  note  for  me,  and  I  said 
"yes,  I  expected  it"  but  he  couldn't  find  it.  Then  he  said  he 
had  sent  it  to  our  state  room  by  a  steward,  but  not  one  of  the 
stewards  would  acknowledge  having  received  it  and  no  one 
could  find  it. 

In  the  meantime,  we  had  to  get  ashore  by  the  last  tug  or 
not  at  all.  We  had  been  invited  by  Judge  Saunders  to  go  on  a 
special  tug  to  Algeciras  for  lunch,  so  we  went  over  to  the  dock 
and  there  I  tried  to  get  Dr.  Oman's  house,  as  we  were  told 
there  was  no  General  Oman,  but  it  was  impossible  to  get 
any  answer  and  as  we  did  not  know  who  had  written  the  note, 

613 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

we  went  off  at  12.30  for  Algcciras  and  found  a  wonderful 
Spanish  Hotel,  built  with  courts  and  gardens,  and  such  a 
view  of  the  Rock!  We  had  a  perfect  lunch.  It  was  all  like 
fairyland.    I  would  have  liked  to  stay  a  month. 

The  English  women  were  all  in  linen  suits.  When  I  came 
back,  through  the  town  of  Gibraltar,  the  Alameda,  and  out  to 
Europa  Point,  I  bought  my  usual  orange  basket  at  the  mar- 
ket, where  Laura  will  remember  the  delicious  dates  we  got. 
I  hope  we  may  find  some  letters  at  Naples,  though  I  doubt 
it,  as  you  probably  did  not  write  at  once  on  your  return. 

I  have  mv  packing  to  do,  so  with  much  love  to  you  all. 

Afi^y.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S. — I  will  write  from  Naples. 


ITALY 


Imperial  Hotel, 
Sorrento,  Saturday,  March  5,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  hope  you  will  remember  this  is  our  37th  wedding  anni- 
versary! 

We  arrived  here  last  night  quite  worn  out — but  after  our 
long  drive — it  was  delightful  to  arrive  at  a  warm,  comfortable 
hotel,  and  have  a  delicious  dinner  and  a  big  fine  room,  and  this 
morning  to  look  out  on  one  of  the  most  wonderful  views  in 
the  world,  the  water  without  a  ripple,  like  glass,  and  the 
mountains  covered  with  snow.  It  was  impossible  to  tell  their 
summits  from  the  clouds. 

To-day  we  have  spent  strolling  about  in  the  hot  sun  and 

went  over  to  the  Vittoria  Hotel  for  afternoon  tea,  sat  out  of 

doors  in  the  sun,  not  a  scrap  of  wind,  and  growing  about  us 

forget-me-nots,  pansies,  frisia,  cowslips,  banana  and  palm  and 

pepper  trees,  acacia,  camellias  and  oranges  and  lemons;  then 

on  the  tiled  terrace  hanging  over  the  sea,  far  up  above  the 

Marina  or  landing.     It  is  certainly  a  heaven  on  earth,  it  is 

impossible  to  imagine  greater  beauty  and  we  are  wonderfully 

favored,  so  far,  in  having  nothing  but  brilliant  sunshine,  and 

hoping  for  a  perfect  day  to-morrow  to  go  on  to  Amalfi  and 

Ravello. 

We   landed   last  Tuesday   morning.      Fortunately,   I   had 

615 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

telegraphed  for  rooms  and  the  n"ian  who  met  us  at  the  dock 
had  my  name  on  his  Hst. 

To  my  surprise,  they  have  built  stone  docks  at  Naples 
since  we  were  here  last,  and  we  docked  at  once  without  trouble. 
As  soon  as  we  had  lunch  (and  the  food  tasted  like  ambrosia 
after  that  on  the  ship)  we  took  cabs  and  went  to  the  museum 
and  spent  an  hour;  then  up  to  San  Martino  which  was  as 


SOLFATARA 

lovely  as  ever,  and  then  up  in  a  lift  to  the  Berlolini  Hotel 
where  we  had  tea,  sitting  on  a  terrace  and  having  a  glorious 
view  and  sunset,  with  singing  and  playing  by  native  musicians 
in  costume.  Then  w^e  came  back  and  down  to  the  Grand  Hotel 
again  and  had  a  perfect  dinner. 

The  next  day  we  spent  the  morning  in  Naples  over  our 
trunks  and  resting  and  took  lunch  early  and  went  in  a  landau, 
for  the  whole  afternoon,  out  through  the  new  grotto,  through 
the  hill  of  Posilipo,  over  to  Solfatara,  Pozzuoli,  where  we 
went  to  see  the  Amphitheatre,  a  splendid  ruin,  with  a  piece 

6i6 


ITALY 

of  the  Appian  way  leading  up  to  it,  and  to  the  Lerapeum,  a 
perfectly  beautiful  ruin  half  under  water,  which  by  an  erup- 
tion of  Solfatara,  was  let  down  under  the  water  and  when  the 
Monte  Novo  was  created  by  an  earthquake  hundreds  of  years 
after,  it  was  raised  up  again,  but  has  sunk  a  metre  in  the  last 
hundred  years. 

Then  we  went  on  to  Baise  and  returned  by  Lake  Avernus 
and  Grotto  of  the  Cumaean  Sybil,  Lake  Lucrinus  and  the  Fal- 
nernian  hill  and  the  hot  baths  of  Nero.     En  route  among  other 


rii;-;  amphitheatre,  pozzuo.,! 
wonderful   views   was  that  of  Nisida,  a   promontory   almost 
detached  from  the  main  land,  and  a  glorious  sunset  all  the 
way  back,  and  through  the  Grotto  Antico  where  the  Roman 
legions  marched  through,  and  all  unchanged. 

Each  thing  we  see  is  more  beautiful  than  the  other,  and 
so  it  goes  on.  I  had  written  from  Gibraltar  to  Morgan  Harjes 
to  send  our  mail  to  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  Naples,  but  we  did  not 
get  any  mail  there.  I  took  Cook  tickets  for  the  round  trip  to 
La  Cava  and  return  by  train  to  Naples,  and  hope  to  get  to 
Rome  the  same  day.  The  utter  silence  here  is  such  a  rest  for 
the  nerves  one  cannot  realize  it  at  first.  We  sleep  under  mos- 
quito nets,  and  that  alone  makes  it  seem  like  summer. 

617 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  wonder  what  you  are  all  doing,  and  think  of  you  hived 
up  in  the  library,  all  smoking  and  with  black  snow  outside, 
and  wish  you  were  here,  where  you  could  be  out  in  this  wonder- 
ful air  all  day,  smelling  oranges  and  flowers,  and  the  birds 
singing  all  the  time. 

Hoping  to  get  letters  forwarded  from  Naples. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  &  Pension  Palumbo, 
Ravello,  Tuesday,  March  8,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

If  I  only  had  words  to  describe  the  beauty  around  me;  it 
is  indescribable.  The  sea  is  like  glass  and  this  rocky  coast 
stands  out  in  wonderful  sharp  lines;  way  beyond  stretch  snow 
capped  mountains.  We  are  looking  at  it  from  the  terrace  of 
the  hotel,  iioo  feet  above  the  water.  These  lines  are  cut  by 
cypresses  and  pines,  like  dark  green  velvet,  and  the  old  towers 
of  the  palaces  are  mostly  ruins. 

There  were  thirty-five  thousand  people  in  this  town  once, 
and  Amalfi  was  a  great  city  trading  all  over  the  world.  This 
house  was  the  Bishop's  Palace,  and  the  Dependance  was  the 
property  of  the  Confalone  family  and  above  is  the  Palazzo 
delli  Afflitili,  and  both  of  them  iioo  years  old.  A  Mr.  Reid 
many  years  ago  bought  the  Palazzo  Rufolo  just  below  this 
and  has  turned  it  into  a  Garden  of  Eden. 

He  and  his  wife  did  a  great  deal  to  elevate  the  people 
around  here,  but  both  are  now  dead,  and  while  the  nephew. 
Sir  James  Lacaito,  keeps  up  the  place,  he  is  a  busy  man  in 
England,  and  only  comes  here  for  the  month  of  April. 

The  influence  of  the  Saracens  is  felt  here  in  the  architec- 
ture, and  there  are  wonderful  pulpits  in  the  churches,  of  mosaic 
and  twisted  columns.    Wherever  they  dig,  they  find  treasures. 

We  sit  in  the  morning  on  this  terrace,  which  has  a  stone 

bench  tiled  all  around  the  edge,  and  it  is  high  up  above  the 

surrounding  ground,  and  there  are  lovely  daffodils  and  violets 

and  primroses  all  about  us,  and  over  our  heads  rose  vines  with 

618 


ITALY 


big  yellow  roses  and  ivy  everywhere.  Things  are  just  budding 
out;  deciduous  trees,  etc.,  and  grapevines;  but  there  is  so 
much  green  and  so  many  flowers  that  one  doesn't  miss  them. 
We  are  going  to  walk  to  the  Cembrone,  a  sort  of  promon- 
tory facing  up  the  valley  towards  the  mountains,  with  a 
wonderful  view.     It  is  just  the  rest  I  want.     It  is  absolutely 


quiet. 

come 

It 

take  1 

read. 

room 

time, 

dress 


A  BIT  IN  RAVELLO 

The  air  is  perfect  and  the  eye  is  satisfied.     You  must 
here  sometime  with  me. 

is  quite  gay  at  lunch  time,  when  people  drive  up  and 
unch  here.     In  the  evening,  we  sit  around  a  table  and 

They  have  fires  here  in  my  room  and  in  the  dining 

and  we  are  quite  comfortable.     It  is  very  cold  at  bed 

but  in  the  morning  we  have  the  hot  sun  and  a  fire  and 

comfortably.     I  can't  bear  to  think  of  leaving,  but  I 

619 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

suppose  we  will  go  on  Saturday  or  Sunday,  as  direct  to  Rome 
as  possible. 

We  have  our  first  mail,  your  letter  of  February  17th  and 
postal  of  1 8th.  You  did  not  say  a  word  about  who  used  the 
Opera  box  that  Tuesday  night.  We  think  of  you  always, 
wishing  you  could  share  our  pleasure. 

We  must  get  ofi",  so  good-bye,  with  much  love  and  hoping 
to  hear  from  you  at  Rome. 

Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S. — You  have  the  itinerary,  which  tells  you  as  nearly 
as  possible  w^here  we  will  be. 


Grand  Hotel,  Naples, 
March  12th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

This  is  my  birthday  and  I  am  sure  you  have  thought  of  it.* 
We  left  Ravello  at  nine  this  morning  in  just  the  same  per- 
fect  weather  we  have  had   continuously — warm  and   lovely, 


AMALFl 

and  drove  down  almost  to  Amalfi,  then  turned  off  to  La  Cava, 
arriving  there  at  12.45  and  took  the  train  to  Naples. 

*Her  sixty-fourth  birthday! 

620 


ITALY 

Our  carriage  was  almost  full  of  men  and  I  soon  gained 
from  their  talk  that  they  had  been  off  on  some  enterprise. 
Two  young  engineers  and  two  Italians.  The  young  men  were 
Germans  and  spoke  Italian  and  English  as  well  and  helped 
us  install  our  packages. 

We  got  here  and  found  a  comfortable  room;  then  as  it  was 
my  birthday  we  celebrated  it  by  tea  at  Bertolini's.  So  we 
drove  up  and  then  went  up  in  the  lift  and  on  to  the  Terrace, 
and  once  more  had  that  wonderful  view  of  the  Bay  of  Naples. 
We  couldn't  get  in  to  the  Palace  Hotel  at  Rome  and  Mrs. 
Johnson  was  good  enough  to  get,  through  the  Proprietor, 
rooms  for  us  at  the  Windsor.  Rome  is  terribly  crowded,  so 
we  are  thankful  to  be  assured  of  a  roof  over  our  heads  to-morrow 
night. 

I  am  so  dead  tired  I  must  go  to  bed,  but  I  didn't  want  to 
go  without  letting  you  know  of  our  safe  arrival  here.  We 
have  your  letters  (two  mails)  and  Laura's  written  a  few  days 
after  we  left.    Am  glad  you  enjoyed  the  Opera. 

How  I  wish  I  could  bring  back  the  cook;  there  is  never 
taste  or  smell  of  grease  about  the  cooking,  and  it  is  so  dainty 
and  digestible!  We  have  much  to  learn  at  home.  I  shall  not 
do  much  sightseeing  in  Rome.  I  will  let  you  know  as  soon  as 
we  are  settled. 

With  much  love  to  all,  and  hoping  Cliif  and  Sam  will  write 
sometimes  to  me.     (My  letters  are  for  them  as  well  as  you). 

Affectionately-  M.  D.  R. 

Palace  Hotel,  Rome, 

Tuesday,  March  15,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

Since  I  wrote  you  from  Naples  on  the  eve  of  the  12th,  we 

have  your  letters  telling  of  your  knowledge  of  our  arrival  at 

Naples,  etc.     I  wrote  Maj.  Landis  that  we  would  be  at  the 

Windsor  Hotel  just  below  here,  but  on  our  arrival,  we  found 

the  Porter  from  the  Palace  Hotel,  saying  they  were  going  to 

take  us  in  here,  for  which  we  were  glad.     I  have  had  a  slight 

621 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

bilious  attack  so  did  not  go  out  to-day.  Maj.  Landis  and  his 
wife  are  coming  to  call  at  6.30.  He  writes  he  had  a  jolly  letter 
from  Col.  Shore  and  enclosed  a  note  to  me,  in  which  I  am 
commanded  to  come  to  India  without  delay,  written  in  Shore's 
usual  joking  way. 

We  may  go  one  night  to  the  Opera  to  hear  "Iris"  with 
Mascagni  leading.  Sunday  afternoon  on  our  arrival,  we  drove 
to  the  Janiculum  and  through  the  Villa  Borghese  grounds  and 
the  Pincian.  The  weather  was  perfect  and  I  thought  it  best 
to  utilize  it,  and  fortunately,  as  it  has  been  overcast  to-day 
and  yesterday, 

Rome,  Wednesday,  March  16,  1910. 

The  cab  drivers  have  been  on  a  strike  for  two  days  and  it 
is  difficult  to  get  cabs.  This  p.  m.  we  are  going  to  the  Pan- 
theon and  Santa  Maria  della  Pace  to  see  Raphael's  Sybils, 
and  perhaps  to  the  Capitol  Museum.  We  have  just  come  back 
from  the  rag  fair  where  we  went  with  the  Johnsons,  and  met 
a  Mr.  Graham,  who  has  lived  here  for  years. 

He  sent  us  round  the  corner  to  the  Palace  of  Prince  Mas- 
simo, where  there  is  a  chapel  that  is  opened  only  once  a  year. 
We  went  up  a  narrow  staircase  and  got  into  a  frightful  crowd 
of  peasants  and  priests,  and  all  sorts  of  people,  and  had  to 
come  down  without  seeing  it,  as  we  were  afraid  we  would  be 
shut  in  for  hours. 

I  should  have  told  you  first  that  Reynolds  Landis  and  his 
wife  called  yesterday  at  6.30  p.  m.  and  we  were  waiting  in 
the  smoking  room  for  them.  I  had  written  from  Naples  Satur- 
day, and  they  only  got  my  letter  Monday  evening,  and  they 
expressed  great  regret  that  they  had  not  got  it  in  time,  as  their 
day  at  home  was  Monday  afternoon.  We  are  to  dine  with 
them  Sunday  evening,  and  they  are  to  lunch  with  us  at  the 
Aventine  Hill  on  Friday  if  pleasant,  if  not,  on  Saturday,  as 
that  is  one  of  the  things  to  do.  They  were  most  friendly  and 
she  is  quite  pretty. 

He  is  trying  to  carry  out  Col.  Shore's  instructions  to  make 

622 


ITALY 

me  cable  you  that  I  am  going  to  India  and  for  you  to  come 
and  join  us.  I  told  him  that  it  was  of  no  use,  that  you  would 
never  forgive  me,  and  that  I  was  not  prepared  financially,  etc. 
Lina  will  be  much  disappointed,  but  I  cannot  do  otherwise. 

To-day  we  had  a  short  shower,  with  hail,  but  when  I  went 
out  at  eleven,  it  was  like  summer.  I  bought  a  great  bunch  of 
white  gilly  flowers  for  20  cents,  the  only  time  I  have  indulged, 
but  they  are  so  tempting.  To-morrow  we  have  arranged  to 
go  out  on  the  Appian  way  and  to  St.  Paul's  Basilica  and  the 
catacombs.  A  week  is  so  ridiculously  short  a  time  to  be  here 
one  does  not  know  what  to  do. 

My  letters  have  to  be  for  all,  for  I  do  not  have  time  to 
write  each  one,  but  I  think  of  you  all  and  wish  you  could 
enjoy  what  I  am  having  here,  beautiful  out  of  doors. 

With  much  love  to  you  all. 

Affiy.,  M.  D.  R. 

Palace  Hotel,  Rome, 

March  20,  1910. 
Dear  Mr.  Rosengarten, 

I  have  thought  many  times  of  writing  to  you,  but  I  have 
not  had  time  hardly  to  say  my  prayers.  Every  moment  since 
we  landed  in  Naples  has  been  full  of  delightful  experiences  and 
filled  to  overflowing;  and  the  day  at  Ponta  Delgada,  the  day 
at  Madeira  and  the  one  at  Gibraltar  and  Algeciras  were  de- 
lightful; especially  the  day  we  spent  at  Madeira,  a  dream  of  a 
place.  Mrs.  Rosengarten  has  written  you  so  fully  of  our  trip 
that  you  will  not  want  to  hear  it  again. 

I  only  want  to  tell  you  how  perfectly  appreciative  I  am 
of  all  your  kindnesses  to  me,  and  how  grateful  I  am  you  have 
made  such  a  wonderful  experience  possible  for  me.  This  has 
been  a  hard  week  for  me  because  I  have  felt  I  must  see  every- 
thing of  importance. 

I  have  been  able  to  see  things  intelligently  with  a  Prof. 
Renaud,  a  bright,  clever  man,  with  a  marvelous  fund  of  in- 
formation, who  lectures  on  all  the  important  things  of  Ancient 

623 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Rome,  on  the  spot,  but  some  of  the  galleries  and  churches  I 
have  visited  alone.  Mrs.  R.  has  done  very  little  sightseeing. 
She  is  better  than  when  she  left  home  but  seems  utterly  ex- 
hausted by  every  little  thing  that  she  attempts  to  do,  even 
in  the  quiet  of  Ravello  she  would  be  worn  out  by  even  a  little 
walk. 

I  have  pleaded  with  her  to  give  up  Dalmatia,  urging  upon 
her  the  importance  of  going  home  strong  and  well,  and  have 
tried  to  persuade  her  to  spend  the  three  weeks  she  would 
spend  in  Dalmatia,  at  Nauheim,  or  some  such  place  and  get 
well.  Her  digestion  is  so  easily  disturbed,  as  you  know,  at 
all  times,  and  it  seems  to  me  very  foolish  to  go  to  a  place  where 
the  hotels  are  said  to  be  impossible.  I  wish  you  were  here  to 
insist  upon  rest,  and  not  a  month  of  hard  travel,  and  perhaps 
discomfort.  Do  not  think  Mrs.  Rosengarten  is  ill,  but  she 
evidently  cannot  stand  any  fatigue. 

I  am  wild  about  Rome,  it  is  so  full  of  interest  and  beauty. 
We  are  to  dine  to-night  with  Major  and  Mrs.  Landis.  I  went 
this  morning  to  the  service  at  St.  Peter's,  but  it  was  disap- 
pointing. 

With  much  love  and  deep  gratitude. 

Aff.,  Maria. 

Grand  Hotel  (Brufani), 
Perugia,  March  23rd,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  have  so  much  to  tell  and  am  so  far  in  arrears  that  I 
hardly  know  how  to  begin.  We  left  Rome  on  Tuesday.  I 
found  the  excitement  of  people  and  sightseeing  very  fatiguing, 
I  thought  it  best  to  keep  to  my  original  program.  Although 
we  were  only  eight  days  in  Rome,  we  saw  most  of  the  really 
important  sights  and  worked  hard. 

I  wrote  you  a  few  days  after  our  arrival  about  the  Landis's 

calling.     I  found  him  quite  unchanged  and  admired  his  wife 

very  much.    They  went  to  lunch  with  us  on  the  Aventine  on 

Friday,   i8th,  at  a  popular  restaurant  where  there  is  a  fine 

624 


ITALY 

view.  We  met  Mr.  Graham,  of  Pittsburgh,  who  has  a  lovely 
home  in  Rome;  is  also  an  intimate  friend  of  the  Landis's.  He 
was  asked  to  meet  us  at  the  Landis's  for  dinner  Sunday  night. 
He  then  decided  to  have  us  to  tea  on  Monday  afternoon,  so 
we  had  plenty  to  do.  We  went  to  the  Landis's  Sunday  night 
for  dinner  and  there  met  Baron  d'Isola  (who  talked  Italian 
to  me),  and  Mr.  Ezekiel,  the  sculptor,  who  has  had  his  studio 
for  so  many  years  in  the  Baths  of  Diocletian,  and  must  now 
get  out  of  it.  He  has  the  loveliest  face  and  is  very  interesting 
lived  for  many  years  at  the  Villa  d'Este  with  Cardinal  d'Este 


PERUGIA  AND  HOTEL  BRUFANI 


and  Queen  Mother,  and  the  King  and  Queen  are  great  friends 
with  him. 

A  pretty  Miss  Walker  (who  is  staying  with  the  Landis's), 
and  Mr.  Graham  made  up  the  party.  The  conversation  was 
always  interesting  and  the  Landis's  said  they  were  so  pleased 
to  be  able  to  entertain  one  of  the  Rosengarten  family  for  the 
first  time,  and  they  professed  the  greatest  admiration  for  Joe 
and  Fanny  and  wish  they  could  see  them. 

They  live  in  the  apartment  formerly  occupied  by  the  De 

Castros,  and  have  a  fine  view  from  their  balconies. 
40  625 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

They  have  many  interesting  and  beautiful  vases  in  metal 
inlaid,  which  they  brought  from  the  Philippines.  Monday 
afternoon  we  went  to  Mr.  Graham's  apartment,  which  is  a 
veritable  museum,  with  wonderful  Chinese  things  he  got  in 
Pekin.  Mrs.  Ethelbert  Nevin  poured  tea  at  one  end  of  the 
dining  room,  and  Mrs.  Bastienelli  at  the  other. 

I  also  met  a  Judge  Cochran,  now  of  St.  Louis,  whose  father 
was  Judge  C.  of  Pittsburgh,  and  who  said  he  used  to  play 
with  me  as  a  very  small  child,  and  knew  father  and  Clifford 
well.  The  Browns  (Mrs.  Fox's  brother)  were  also  there  and 
some  young  Italians  and  the  Baron  d'Isola,  who  sat  by  me 


-.*^-K^3-^-S 


THE  CONVENT  OF  ST.  FRANCIS,  ASSISI 

at  Landis's  dinner.  The  Johnsons  and  Walkers  went  with  us, 
and  we  felt  very  gay  and  had  a  hard  time  getting  packed  that 
night  to  leave  early  on  the  next  morning,  but  we  got  off  all 
right  Tuesday  morning  and  made  the  acquaintance  almost  at 
once  of  Miss  Sergeant,  of  New  Haven.  You  remember  we 
met  her  brother  at  the  Country  Club  when  Freddie  Ford 
introduced  him. 

We  all  got  off  at  Assisi  at  2  p.  m.,  and  stayed  over  night 
and  we  came  on  in  a  carriage  to  Perugia.  I  wish  I  could  de- 
scribe the  beauty  of  that  sunset  from  our  windows,  looking 
over  the  Umbrian  Plain,   seeing  Assisi,   Spello  and   Spoleto, 

with  a  background  of  snow  mountains.     We  spent  Tuesday 

626 


ITALY 

and  Wednesday  nights  there  going  over  the  old  sights,  and 
are  enjoying  the  Hotel  Brufani,  where  we  have  front  windows 
that  look  dowii  on  the  Etruscan  gate  in  the  old  wall.  This 
afternoon  we  take  the  two  o'clock  train  to  Florence  and  go  to 
the  Anglo-American  Hotel. 

We  are  all  going  tomorrow  afternoon  at  five  p.  ai.  to  drive 
out  to  the  country  to  see  some  procession  in  costume,  some- 
thing peculiar  to  Florence  and  Good  Friday.  We  found  your 
letter  and  Laura's,  saying  you  had  not  heard  anything  on 
March  I2th,  which  seems  very  strange.  We  have  written 
constantly.  I  cannot  stop  to  tell  you  lots  of  little  things  for 
this  must  be  posted,  so  I  will  say  good  night. 

Hoping  you  are  all  well  and  happy. 

With  much  love  to  all. 

Yours  Aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

Anglo-American  Hotel, 

Florence,  March  27th,  1910. 

Easter  Sunday. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  got  here  Thursday  about  dusk  and  were  comfortably 
settled  in  quiet  rooms  on  the  court.  As  Florence  streets  are 
very  noisy,  I  am  very  glad  of  this.  We  arranged  to  join  friends 
in  an  excursion  to  Grassina,  a  small  village  about  ten  miles 
in  the  country  to  see  a  church  procession  after  dark,  Good 
Friday.  So  we  took  a  substantial  five  o'clock  tea  and  started 
and  had  a  beautiful  drive,  which  was  unfortunately  marred 
by  the  dust,  which  was  excessive  owing  to  the  prolonged 
drought. 

It  is  an  old  custom  to  have  a  procession  on  Good  Friday 

of  Roman  soldiers  and  priests  bearing  a  life-sized  figure  of 

Christ  on  a  sort  of  Catafalque,  followed  by  children  dressed 

in  white,  and  then  a  lot  of  mourning  women  in  black  around 

a  statue  of  the  Virgin.      There  were  crowds  of  carriages  and 

automobiles  in  a  piazza  on  the  village  street  where  the  village 

fair  was  going  on,  so  we  went  back  up  the  road  on  the  hillside 

where  we  could  see  the  church. 

627 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

About  seven,  the  moon  rose  back  of  the  hills  just  in  the 
right  place,  and  soon  the  torchlight  procession  started  out 
from  the  church,  curving  along  the  hill  and  descending  to- 
wards us;  a  very  good  band  playing  very  solemn  music  and 
the  priests  chanting  at  intervals.  It  was  really  very  impressive 
in  the  dark,  and  against  that  background. 

Your  last  letters  came  yesterday;  also  one  from  Lina.  I  have 
had  a  letter  from  Countess  Adelmann  inviting  us  there.    I  am 


MADONNA  DELLA  SEDIA,  RAPHAEL 


writing  her  that  I  cannot  tell  so  long  ahead.  We  are  almost  a 
week  behind  our  Itinerary,  as  we  could  not  possibly  go  faster. 
It  seems  such  a  long  time  before  you  got  our  letters  when 
they  were  posted  at  the  earliest  opportunity  and  we  have 
written  steadily.  I  have  all  your  letters  although  you  did 
not  put  numbers  on  all  of  them.  They  come  in  clusters. 
Last  one  is  dated  March  14th  and  postal  card  iSth.  I  hope 
it  will  be  less  expensive  in  Dalmatia. 


628 


ITALY 

I  find  very  little  time  to  write  to  anyone  but  you.     We 
shall  leave  here  for  Bologna  Tuesday  afternoon  probably  and 


THE  GALLERY  OF  THE  UFFIZI.  FLORENCE 


INTERIOR  OF  SANTA  CROCK,  FLORENCE 

go  by  Ravenna  and  Ferrara  to  Venice,  getting  there  Sunday 

or  Monday  next. 

With  much  love  to  you  all  and  constantly  wishing  you  were 

with  us.  Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

629 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

Byron  Palace  Hotel, 
Ravenna,  March  30th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

Here  we  are  in  old  Ravenna,  having  had  an  adventurous 
day  yesterday.     Last  Sunday,  as  everything  was  closed,  we 


GARDEN  OF  THE  HOTEL  BYRON,  RAVENNA 

went  to  call  on  Miss  Reeder  Macaulay  in  the  afternoon,  after 

going  to  the  Cathedral  in  the  morning.    No  one  was  at  home, 

but  I  got  a  very  nice  note  from  Miss  Macaulay  saying  they 

were  sorry  to  miss  me  and  if  they  could  have  known  I  was 

coming,  could  as  well  as  not  have  been  at  home. 

Monday   we   spent   sightseeing.      Tuesday   afternoon   we 

took  the  3.30  train  by  Faurze  here.    We  had  to  change  twice 

630 


ITALY 

and  after  dark  and  a  very  nice  young  Naval  Officer  (Italian) 
was  very  polite,  said  he  was  coming  here,  etc.,  and  made  him- 
self very  useful. 

Arriving  at  9.30  we  went  to  bed  as  soon  as  we  were  settled, 
and  this  morning  started  out  sightseeing,  and  did  not  see  him 


THE  TOMB  OF  DANTE,  RAVENNA 

again,  but  found  a  nice  note  saying  he  had  been  obliged  to 
return  to  Florence.  He  had  just  returned  from  Pekin  where 
he  had  been  attached  to  the  Italian  Legation  in  China;  said 
he  knew  many  Americans  there  and  seemed  to  have  read 
many  of  our  books. 

I  am  very  much  impressed  with  Ravenna;  not  with  its 

631 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

outward  appearance,  but  with  the  wonderful  early  Christian 
relics,  sarcophagi  and  mosaics,  the  churches  of  San  Vitale 
and  San  Apollonia  date  from  300  and  500  A.  D.  The  tomb 
of  Galla  Placidia  was  near  the  former.  There  were  three 
wonderful  enormous  archaic  sarcophagi,  and  the  walls  and 
vaulting  and  dome  of  exquisite  mosaic,  and  in  the  church  a 
great  altar  of  translucent  alabaster. 

This  hotel  was  the  Palazzo  Rasponi  and  Byron  lived  here 
in  1819.  At  present  the  heater  is  out  of  commission  and  the 
great  barnlike  rooms  are  cold  as  charity.  Our  room  opens  on  a 
second-floor  terrace,  and  as  it  is  raining  to-night,  we  must  go 
out  on  this  terrace  to  get  to  bed.  There  is  a  beautiful  garden, 
but  it  turned  so  cold  to-day  we  could  not  stay  there. 

We  have  been  talking  with  a  very  interesting  mother  and 
daughter  (Dutch)  who  are  great  travellers,  and  have  been  in 
America.  They  went  all  over,  from  Mexico  to  Canada,  in 
three  months  and  seem  not  to  have  forgotten  anything  they 
saw,  and  to  have  been  much  impressed  with  our  country- 
They  advise  us  to  see  Ferrara  during  the  day  and  go  on  to 
Padua,  as  the  hotel  is  better  at  Padua  and  the  distances  are 
very  short,  so  we  shall  be  in  Venice  by  Friday  evening,  April 
1st,  a  few  days  behind  our  itinerary. 

I  think  it  doesn't  matter,  however,  as  it  may  be  rather 
cold.  It  must  be  beautiful  here  in  Ravenna  in  warm  weather, 
the  garden  is  so  lovely  and  the  terrace,  but  there  is  a  sensa- 
tion of  desolation  about  the  place,  and  one  would  not  want  to 
stay  long  unless  with  a  gay  party.  We  will  not  get  your  letters 
until  next  Saturday,  when  I  hope  we  shall  find  a  large  mail. 

I  am  looking  forward  to  loafing  in  Venice,  and  will  write 
you  from  there. 

With  much  love  for  you  all. 

Your  affectionate,  M.  D.  R. 


632 


ITALY 


Hotel  De  L'Europe,  Venice, 

April  4th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  found  a  letter  from  you  dated  March  22nd  when  I  stopped 
at  Cook's  this  a.  ai.  I  have  written  you  twice  a  week  and 
sometimes  oftener,  and  you  can  hardly  expect  more.  I  must 
sometimes  rest  after  being  out  all  day. 

I  wrote  you  Wednesday  night,  and  we  left  Ravenna  the 


CHAPEL  AND  ALTAR  OF  ST.  ANTHONY,  PADUA 

next  morning  in  a  raging  cold  storm,  which  developed  into 
snow,  as  we  got  to  Ferrara,  where  we  lunched  and  drove 
around,  seeing  first  the  old  Castello  with  a  moat,  a  fortified 
castle  of  the  Este  family,  and  also  saw  some  other  palaces  and 
a  cathedral,  with  fine  facade;  but  it  was  so  cold  and  such  a 
fearful  wind,  that  we  got  back  to  the  station  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible, where  we  found  a  stove  in  the  Trattoria  and  drank  tea 
to  get  warm.  They  call  this  storm  a  burrasca  (bourasque  in 
French)  and  it  is  the  worst  I  was  ever  out  in.  Glad  indeed 
we  were  to  get  to   a    warm,  modem   hotel   at   Padua,  where 

633 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


to  our  astonishment,   a  huge  black  porter  met   us   with   the 
omnibus. 

A  good  night's  sleep  and  an  excellent  dinner  put  us  in  shape 
for  seeing  Padua  the  next  morning.  There  we  admired  the 
Palazzo  del  Ragione,  beautiful  outside  and  inside,  with  a 
wonderful  hall,  with  frescoes,  and  the  Church  of  St.  Anthony 
of  Padua,  which  was  full  of  superb  tombs  and  pulpits  and  bas 
reliefs  by  Donatello.    An  hour's  ride  in  the  afternoon  brought 


THE  FOUNTAIN  AND  PIGEONS,  ST.  MARK'S  SQUARE,  VENICE 

us  to  Venice,  and  we  found  two  nice  single  rooms  with  heat  and 
electric  light  and  fine  linen  sheets  and  towels. 

We  go  every  afternoon  late  to  see  the  sun  set  on  the  facade 
of  St.  Mark's. 

Why  do  you  not  come  over  to  bring  us  home.^     Meet  us 
in  Vienna.     With  much  love. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

Hotel  Stephanie, 
Abbazia,  April  loth,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

I  wish  you  could  see  this  beautiful  place;  beautiful  al- 
though the  Bora  is  blowing  and  the  sun  obscured.  The  train 
from  Trieste  stopped  away  back  in  the  mountains,  and  we 
had  to  get  out  and  take  a  trolley  down  hill  to  the  town.  It 
reminds  me  of  Hombourg,  in  the  character  of  the  houses,  but 
there  is  much  more  tropical  and  glossy  foliage.  It  is  very 
steep,  the  houses  rising  one  behind  the  other  out  of  thick 
foliage.  There  is  a  lovely  walk  all  along  the  rocky  coast, 
where  there  are  no  ugly  wooden  things  to  interfere  with  the 
beauty  of  nature. 

We  are  at  an  enormous  hotel,  well  furnished,  but  with  no 
heat  except  in  the  smoking  room,  where  we  are  seated  at 
present.  We  had  dinner  in  a  large  restaurant  belonging  to 
this  hotel  last  night,  quite  gay  with  officers  and  well  dressed 
women,  and  the  cooking  was  excellent.  We  had  things  that 
looked  like  lobsters,  only  about  six  inches  long,  a  pale  pink, 
very  delicate,  and  a  delicious  dessert,  not  like  anything  I  ever 
had.  We  are  going  to  take  our  tea  at  the  Kursaal  where  the 
Gypsy  band  is  to  play.  If  the  weather  is  all  right,  we  shall 
take  an  early  boat  to  Fiume  and  change  to  the  11  a.  m.  boat 
for  Zara. 

We  thought  it  best  to  spend  Sunday  here  rather  than  at 
Fiume,  where  there  is  really  nothing  to  see,  and  I  never  saw 
a,  more  beautiful  place  to  stay  in  if  one  had  a  party.     Of 

635 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

course,  it  is  impossible  to  say  on  just  what  day  we  will  be  at 
a  certain  place,  but  I  will  let  you  know  as  I  go  along. 

I  find  I  cannot  draw  any  money  on  my  letter  of  credit 
after  Fiume  until  Buda  Pesth,  so  I  may  draw  some  more 
money,  as  it  will  do  in  Vienna  and  I  would  rather  have  too 
much  Austrian  money  than  to  be  stranded  at  Sarajevo  or 
Agram  without  any  money,  so  I  will  probably  draw  £40. 

Here  they  speak  only  German,  except  an  Egyptian  who 
speaks  English.  He  is  the  second  colored  person  we  have 
seen  on  our  trip.    I  hope  to  get  a  good  mail  at  Fiume  tomorrow, 


ABBAZIA,  DALMATIA 


and  have  ordered  the  next  mail  sent  to  Ragusa.  I  often  wish 
you  could  be  with  us  but  suppose  you  would  be  tired  out  with 
the  detail  of  travel. 

Much  love  for  all  of  you.  Affly.,  M.  D.  R. 


Dalmatia,  Trau  near  Spalato, 

April  15th,  1910. 
Dear  Boys: 

We  are  enjoying  all  this  beautiful  scenery  and  architec- 
ture, and  especially  the  people  in  their  wonderful  costumes. 

636 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

The  men  are  giants.  It  is  uncommon  to  meet  a  short  man  and 
an  ordinary  thing  to  see  men  from  6  ft.  4  inches  to  6  ft.  7  or 
8  inches.  Tell  Felix  he  would  be  a  person  of  ordinary  height. 
They  are  all  handsome  and  look  like  Romans.  We  hope  to 
get  letters  at  Ragusa.    Nothing  since  Venice. 

Aifly.,  M.  D.  R. 

Grand  Hotel  Bellevue, 
Spalato,  April  15th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

We  left  Fiume  at  eleven  on  Monday  morning,  April  nth, 
the  first  really  clear  weather  for  days  and  sailed  off  down  the 


TRAU 


Dalmatian  coast.  We  had  a  nice  table  d'hote  luncheon  and 
when  we  came  up  on  deck,  the  view  made  us  fairly  gasp  for 
breath.  The  Velebit  range  was  on  our  left,  the  most  pic- 
turesque mountains  I  ever  saw,  the  softest  grey,  and  above, 
the  snow  looked  like  clouds.  I  haven't  a  vocabulary  to  de- 
scribe them. 

At  about  five  we  reached  Zara,  landing  at  a  stone  pier, 
jutting  out  from  a  long  quay,  where  a  line  of  modem  buildings 
stretched  along  a  promenade.  No  vehicles  in  sight,  but  we 
were  rejoiced  by  the  sight  of  wonderful  costumes,  nurses  with 

637 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

baby  carriages,  etc.,  Austrian  officers  in  beautiful  uniforms; 
it  all  looked  so  gay  and  bright.  We  had  good  rooms  and  deli- 
cious food  but  no  sitting  room,  which  didn't  matter,  as  we 
were  always  too  tired  to  do  anything  but  go  to  bed. 

I  don't  understand  why  people  have  given  these  hotels 
such  a  bad  reputation.  When  it  is  cold,  of  course,  the  linen 
sheets  seem  damp,  but  we  overcome  that  by  warming  them 
up  with  hot  water  bottles  and  wearing  woolen  wrappers. 
There  are  inlaid  floors  everywhere  and  good  furniture  and 
excellent  beds. 

We  admired  the  churches  in  Zara.     San  Danato  was  an 


FIUME 


early  Christian  church  built  with  the  ruins  of  a  Roman  temple 
in  the  crudest  way,  but  very  impressive;  it  is  now  a  museum: 
and  an  old  Roman  column  stands  in  a  square  and  was  used 
for  a  pillory  in  mediaeval  times.  We  walked  around  the  ram- 
part on  top  of  the  old  walls,  and  enthused  over  the  Porta 
Marina  and  lovely  Roman  bits  here  and  there.  The  next 
morning  I  went  out  to  see  the  museum  and  came  across  the 
market,  with  such  a  riot  of  color. 

The  men  wxar  embroidered  vests  with  red  fringe,  and  the 

638 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 


most  wonderful  little  caps,  smaller  than  the  English  soldiers 
wear,  and  as  they  are  giants,  the  eflfect  is  most  peculiar.  They 
have  great  coats  of  brown  homespun,  made  all  in  one  piece 
like  a  kimono  with  a  hood,  and  the  women  have  big  sleeveless 
coats,  which  are  really  stylish. 

At  eleven  we  started  for  Sebenico  on  another  voyage  of 
four  hours  and  stopped  at  Zara  Vecchio,  where  Queen  Eliza- 
beth of  Hungary  was  imprisoned  and  died.  We  left  behind 
the  snow  clad  Velebits,  wound  our  way  among  many  islands, 
having  an  excellent  lunch,  and  getting  very  friendly  with  the 
Captain,  who  was  very  proud  of  his  English.  The  boat  was 
named  the  "Split,"  Croat  for  Spalato. 


,«1  ^1^ 


ZARA,   CAPITAL   OF    DALMATIA 

Finally  we  rounded  an  old  Venetian  fort  with  the  Lion  of 
Venice  on  top,  and  came  into  a  wonderful  harbor,  where  there 
is  a  Naval  training  ship.  Our  hotel,  "The  Velebit"  was  also 
along  the  quay,  and  it  was  a  great  pleasure  to  watch  the 
middies  rowing  up  and  down.  There  were  two  fine  white 
English  yachts  there,  but  we  saw  nothing  of  the  people. 

Sebenico  in  Dalmatia  was  quite  different  from  Zara,  being 
on  a  steep  hillside  and  crowned  with  two  fortresses.  The  old 
town  has  a  magnificent  Duomo,  the  celebrated  church  all  of 
stone,  inside  and  outside,  and  a  wagon  roof;  the  doors  were 

639 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

exquisite,  and  all  the  interior  details,  especially  the  Bap- 
tistery, which  was  a  perfect  gem,  a. though  so  dark,  it  was 
difficult  to  properly  see  it. 

The  next  morning  we  took  a  carriage  and  drove  to  the 
Falls  of  Krka.  There  are  several,  and  it  takes  two  to  three 
days  to  see  the  upper  one,  so  we  only  saw  the  lower  one.  The 
drive  was  over  high,  grey  rocky  hills  with  almost  no  vegeta- 
tion, and  it  was  a  surprise  when  we  suddenly  saw  way  below, 
the  river  and  green  islands  fringed  with  tall  slender  poplars, 


THE  WATER  FRONT,  SEBEXICO,  DALMATIA 

and  a  picturesque  old  stone  mill.  Small  cataracts  in  every 
direction  were  flowing  out  and  down,  and  it  was  only  when 
we  got  down  below  them  that  we  got  the  real  eflfect. 

Maria  took  some  photos,  which  I  hope  will  turn  out  well. 
We  ate  our  lunch  on  a  stone  terrace  overlooking  a  farm  yard, 
where  the  little  donkeys  were  trudging  up  and  down  with 
enormous  loads  on  their  backs,  and  their  drivers  were  bright 
with  color,  red  caps  and  wonderful  silver  buttons  in  two  rows 
down  their  vests.     It  was  a  pretty  picture. 

We  were  tired,  indeed,  on  our  return,  but  took  an  early 

640 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

dinner  and  then  at  six-thirty  a  train  to  Spalato,  arriving  at 
Spalato  at  ten,  and  as  usual,  no  vehicles,  and  we  had  to  walk 
to  our  hotel,  passing  by;  the  front  of  Diocletian's  Palace,  along 
the  water  front,  and  then  we  got  to  bed  as  soon  as  possible. 
We  feared  it  might  rain,  so  in  the  morning  arranged  for  an 
afternoon  drive  to  Salona  and  Trau.  We  spent  the  forenoon 
walking  through  and  around  the  Roman  Palace  and  the 
Duomo,  which  was  either  a  temple  of  Jupiter  or  Diocletian's 
Mausoleum,  -probably  the  latter.     It  is  superb,  and  nowhere 


ONE  OF  THE  FIVE  CASCADES  OF  THE  KRKA  RIVER,  NEAR  SEBENICO 

else  can  one  see  such  a  thing  as  a  city  inside  of  a  palace.     Of 

course,  it  is  only  the  old  town,  Spalato  and  outside  there  is  a 

modem  city.     It  is  much  more  of  a  city  than  anything  we 

have  seen  so  far. 

Our  drive  to  Salona  and  Trau  was  very  beautiful  but  very 

fatiguing,  partly  on  account  of  the  high  wind,  and  partly  on 

account  of  the  difficult  walk  through  the   ruins  of  Salona. 

After  a  visit  to  the  house  of  Herr  Buice,  the  curator  of  the 

Museum,  we  saw  the  ruins  of  an  early  Christian  Basilica,  and 
41  641 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

at  last  we  have  seen  real  tombs  of  the  martyrs  of  the  early 
Christian  church. 

A  very  curious  thing  is  the  way  in  which  these  magnifi- 
cent sarcophagi  have  been  broken  into  by  Goths  and  Vandals, 
and  robbers  generally,  and  more  curious  still  the  way  in  which 
these  mammoth  sarcophagi  are  wedged  in  all  directions  and 
even  piled  up  on  top  of  each  other,  in  their  efforts  to  get  as 
near  as  possible  to  a  martyr's  tomb.  These  things  interest 
me  very  much,  especially  since  I  have  read  Fabiola.  One 
wonders  how  such  monstrous  things  could  have  been  made  at 


AT  CLISSA 


all,  and  above  all,  at  the  superb  carvings;  they  all  make  our 
modern  tombs  look  absolutely  without  merit  of  any  kind. 

Maria  and  I  drove  alone  to-day  up  to  Clissa,  a  high  barren 
rock  away  up  in  the  mountains,  crowned  by  an  old  Venetian 
castle  fort,  with  superb  views  of  the  coast.  A  slight  haze  pre- 
vented our  seeing  as  far  as  we  might  otherwise. 

I  forgot  to  say  that  after  we  had  gone  through  a  mass  of 

ruins  at  Salona,  we  took  the  carriage  again  and  went  on  to 

Trau,  a  perfect  mediaeval  town  on  an  island,  beyond  the  seven 

castelli,  which  extend  along  the  coast.    It  is  a  walled  town  with 

the  Venetian  lions  over  its  gates,  and  with  the  most  perfect 

642 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

cathedral  one  can  imagine.  It  differs  from  others  in  having  an 
open  porch  or  vestibule  to  protect  its  wonderful  carvings 
from  weather. 

At  one  end  of  the  Island  is  the  old  Venetian  Fort  of  Camer- 
lango,  most  beautiful.  The  views  back  from  Trau  were  more 
beautiful  than  I  can  describe,  exquisite  soft  grey  back  of  the 
green;  and  all  the  way  lovely  hedges  of  hawthorn  and  purple 
and  white  flowers  and  blue  bachelor  buttons.  The  vine  and 
fig  trees  are  just  leafing  out,  and  the  sights  and  sweet  smells 
were  delightful. 

Unfortunately,  one  cannot  get  away  from  here  except  at 
night,  so  we  are  leaving  to-night  on  a  Hungarian  Croatian  boat 
for  Ragusa,  where  we  are  all  going  to  rest  and  refresh  our- 
selves. There  are  few  English  speaking  people  to  be  met;  a 
family  of  three,  whose  names  I  do  not  know,  but  no  doubt  we 
shall  meet  some  at  Ragusa,  where  we  also  hope  to  get  letters. 

I  must  stop  to  go  to  dinner,  so  hoping  you  will  all  have  the 
patience  to  read  this,  with  love  to  all. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S.^ — ^You  would  perhaps  be  interested  to  know,  that  on 
our  drive  home,  after  leaving  the  source  of  the  Jader,  a  typical 
Dalmatian  river,  which  flows  out  of  the  face  of  an  immensely 
high  cliff,  and  makes  a  picturesque  descent  in  many  water- 
falls, we  found  soldiers  stationed  at  different  points,  shooting 
at  an  imaginary  enemy,  and  others  hiding  all  the  way  back, 
and  some  marching,  as  if  reserve  forces. 

Grand  Hotel  Imperial, 
Ragusa,  Sunday,  April  17th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank: 

Here  we  are  at  last  in  beautiful  Ragusa,  and  it  is  even 
more  perfect  than  I  expected!  We  came  by  night  boat  from 
Spalato,  and  had  a  very  bad  night.  I  awoke  at  six,  an  hour 
before  we  were  due  to  arrive,  and  in  that  time,  managed  to 
be  very  ill,  and  we  could  not  get  a  comfortable  room  until  the 
late  afternoon. 

643 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  had  been  trying  for  two  weeks  to  take  care  of  myself,  so 
stayed  in  bed  this  a.  m.  We  have  a  balcony,  and  such  a  view 
from  it,  down  the  coast!  great  promontories  jutting  out  into 
the  sea;  then  the  old  town  wall  climbing  steeply  up,  with 
great  round  towers,  all  ivy  covered;  then  such  flowers,  Banksia 
roses,  oleanders,  mimosa  and  arbors  everywhere  covered  with 
wistaria,  palms  and  pines. 

Maria  went  out  to  see  the  country  people,  who  come  in 
on  Sunday  dressed  in  their  best  costumes,  which  have  a  great 


THE  DALMATIAN  COAST 


deal  of  gold  embroidery  and  tissue.     All  still  are  giants,  and 

here  wear  a  fez  or  red  turban  and  baggy  trousers.     One  feels 

as  if  it  must  be  an  Opera  Bouife  it  is  all  so  unreal.     Their 

belts  are  stuck  full  of  knives  and  pistols,  but  fierce  as  they 

look,  they  all  seem  very  pleasant  and  good  natured. 

I  am  writing  in  the  reading  room,  which  has  a  balcony 

with  tables  and  chairs    where  we  take  tea.     It  overhangs  the 

hotel  garden,  and  past  it  flows  the  life  of  the  city  though  we 

are  outside  the  walls.    We  walk  down  this  street  and  come  to 

a  little  Piazza  called  the  Brisalje,  which  looks  like  a  scene  set 

644 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

for  one  of  Hammersteln's  Operas,  In  the  middle  a  beautiful 
statue,  a  cafe  on  the  left  where  all  sorts  of  people  are  drinking. 
The  sea  makes  the  background,  coming  in  between  two  great 
round  towers  on  high  rocks.  The  old  moat,  has  now  been 
turned  into  a  garden,  and  the  old  drawbridge  into  a  modem 
bridge. 

This  is  the  first  hotel  we  have  found  in  Dalmatia  which 
has  a  reading  room,  and  it  is  such  a  comfort.    We  have  been 


VIEW  OF  RAGUSA  FROM  LACROMA 

talking  with  some  Germans  we  had  noticed  at  Spalato  and 
on  the  boat.  They  live  at  Hamburg  and  know  the  Herzs, 
and  lived  in  New  York  as  young  people,  immediately  after 
the  Civil  War.  He  says  two  of  the  Herzs  were  in  New  York. 
Then  there  is  an  interesting  couple  from  Boston,  who  came 
over  on  the  Cedric,  by  the  name  of  Deland.  He  is  a  lawyer 
and  knows  Frank  Miles  Day,  whom  I  wrote  you  I  met  at 
Florence. 

All  these  men  come  in  every  day  and  take  five  o'clock  tea 
with  their  wives,  and  it  is  so  cosy  and  nice.    A  young  Russian 

645 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

has  just  been  playing  the  piano  so  beautifully,  but  unfortu- 
nately, the  piano  is  very  bad.  We  sit  at  a  long  table  and  three 
nice  Boston  women  sit  on  our  left,  and  two  English  women 
opposite,  and  we  get  a  great  deal  of  information  from  them. 
They  are  going  to  do  just  the  same  trip  I  have  planned. 

You  must  not  worry  about  us.  We  are  having  luxury, 
and  there  are  no  privations.  They  say  the  hotel  at  Cettinje 
is  excellent.  The  only  unpleasant  thing  is  the  sail  down  this 
coast  until  we  turn  into  the  Bocche  de  Cattaro.  The  sail  up 
the  Bocche  and  the  drive  up  to  Cettinje  are  said  to  be  abso- 
lutely beautiful.  We  shall  drive  with  horses  and  carriages  and 
not  go  in  the  public  auto. 

I  have  just  found  out  that  the  Boston  Mr.  Deland  has  a 
brother-in-law,  Frank  Chandler,  architect,  so  I  asked  if  he 
was  related  to  Peleg  Chandler,  and  he  is  a  nephew.  The  Ham- 
burg man  is  named  Volckens,  and  he  is  still  in  business  in 
New  York  and  goes  over  every  year.  They  are  all  so  friendly 
and  nice.  I  only  wish  you  were  along,  you  would  enjoy  these 
people  we  meet.  I  will  send  this,  although  I  could  go  on  for- 
ever. 

Do  tell  the  boys  to  write.     Much  love. 

AfBy.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S. — I  get  few  letters  and  don't  know  where  they  are 
held  up. 

Grand  Hotel  Imperial,  Ragusa, 

April  22nd,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

Only  a  line  to  tell  you  we  are  leaving  here  to-morrow  morn- 
ing for  Mostar  en  route  for  Sarajevo.  The  Volckens  have 
just  returned  from  both  places  and  are  so  enthusiastic  about 
them  and  say  the  Hotels  are  excellent.  We  had  a  nice  party 
of  four  carriages  up  to  Cettinje  in  Montenegro  so  we  were 
never  alone.  The  two  English  old  maids,  one  a  Miss  Thack- 
eray, niece  of  Wm.  M,  and  the  Hendersons,  who  know  David 
Bispham  and  who  are  urging  us  to  come  to  London. 

646 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

There  is  no  doubt  that  it  is  the  most  wonderful  drive  in 
the  world  and  although  it  climbs  2000  ft.  in  zigzag  you  think 
you  are  almost  on  a  level,  it  is  so  perfectly  graded,  and  when 
near  Cettinje  we  made  a  sharp  turn  and  the  most  gorgeous 
view  burst  upon  us,  the  Albanian  Mts.,  blue  as  indigo,  and 
Lake  Scutari,  in  Albania,  and  back  of  all  one  high  snow-capped 


W^^^^^^^^^^^'^^^^'^^^^^^'^^ 


CETTINGE,  CAPITAL  OF  MONTENEGRO 

peak,  before  we  descended  upon  the  sea  of  stone  called  Monte- 
negro. The  two  English  women  are  going  with  us  to-morrow, 
so  we  shall  not  be  isolated. 

I  must  pack  to-night  and  get  to  bed  early  as  we  are  off  be- 
fore nine.  Tell  Laura  I  have  no  time  to  write.  With  much 
love  to  you  all. 

Affectionately,  M.  D.  R. 


Mostar,  Sat.  April  23rd,  1910. 
Dear  F, 

We  left  Ragusa  with  great  regret  this  morning.     It  is  ab- 
solutely beautiful  and  interesting. 

Mostar  is  a  Turkish  town  and  has  the  Narenta  river  rush- 

647 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 


MOSTAR 


ing  through  with  very  picturesque  banks  and  a  wonderful 
bridge.  Full  of  Mosques  and  Turks.  We  go  on  to  Jablanica 
to-morrow  afternoon  and  then  to  Sarajevo.  Am  travelling  too 
fast  to  write  letters  except  to  Frank.    Much  love. 

M.  D.  R. 


Hotel  Europe,  Sarajevo, 
Monday,  April  25th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

Your  last  letter  was  an  old  one  of  Mar.  30th,  forwarded 
from  Fiume  to  Ragusa  and  repeating  other  letters.  We  did 
not  have  any  mail  sent  to  these  out  of  the  way  places  so  will 
get  nothing  until  Vienna. 

We  left  Ragusa  on  Saturday  morning  with  the  two  Eng- 
lish ladies,  one  of  whom  is  Miss  Thackeray,  whose  father  was 
first  cousin  to  the  great  novelist. 

The  night  before  we  had  a  great  leave-taking  of  the  Hen- 
dersons, the  English  couple,  who  were  going  to  Albajea  and 

648 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 


BETWEEN  MOSTAR  AXD  JAYCE,  IIERZEGUVIXA 

the  Volckens  who  had  just  returned  from  this  trip  of  Mostar 
and  Sarajevo,  and  were  most  enthusiastic  about  it  and  invited 
us  to  Hamburg.  The  Hendersons  begged  us  to  come  to  London 
before  saihng  and  promised  to  take  us  everywhere  in  their 
motor  and  to  take  us  to  all  the  best  plays,  &c.,  &c. 

We  hated  to  leave  Ragusa  and  the  Hendersons  but  were 
delighted  with  the  railway  ride  on  a  rack  and  pinion  road  over 
the  Karst  and  came  down  into  a  beautiful  green  valley  upon 
the  town  of  Mostar,  most  picturesquely  located  on  the  rush- 
ing and  foaming  Narenta  River. 

The  banks  are  curiously  rough  and  ragged  and  in  the  centre 
of  the  town  is  the  Roinerbrucke,  a  single  span  of  stone  point- 
ing up  in  the  middle.  With  lovely  mountains  in  the  back- 
ground and  many  minarets  and  tall  poplar  trees  you  may 
imagine  how  beautiful  it  was.  Our  hotel  was  on  the  river  bank 
at  the  end  of  a  bridge  from  which  there  was  an  entrancing 
view  and  a  constant  and  bewildering  procession  of  costumes. 

649 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  had  now  got  to  our  first  Mohammedan  town  and  saw 
veiled  women  in  trousers  and  unveiled  women  dressed  in  the 
ordinary  European  way  except  that  the  dress  ended  in  trousers 
instead  of  a  skirt.  The  next  morning  being  Sunday  we  got 
out  soon  after  nine  to  see  the  Austrian  officers  and  soldiers 
go  to  the  Catholic  church.  We  sat  down  on  a  stone  wall  a 
little  in  front  of  the  church  and  heard  the  brass  band  play 
the  hymns  and  in  the  meantime  the  peasant  men  and  women 
were  arriving  from  the  country  bedecked  in  lace  veils  and 
flowers  and  great  white  woolen  overcoats  embroidered  and 
which  they  had  caught  up  behind  and  let  down  as  they  got 
near  the  church.  Some  of  the  men  wore  red  turbans  and  we 
cannot  tell  them  from  the  Mohammedans. 

It  seemed  so  strange  to  see  the  middle  class  women  wear- 
ing trousers  and  I  have  never  dreamed  of  so  many  costumes, 
making  an  unforgettable  picture.  It  was  very  hot  and  we 
were  glad  to  find  the  tables  set  outside  back  of  the  hotel  and 
reserved  one  for  lunch.  In  the  meantime  officers  and  their 
families  began  to  arrive  and  then  the  brass  band  came  up  and 
saluted  and  then  gave  a  regular  concert  with  printed  pro- 
grams, so  we  enjoyed  the  music  and  saw  the  elite  of  Mostar 
society. 

Maria  went  with  some  Germans  the  night  before  to  a 
Turkish  cafe,  where  there  was  music  and  then  to  see  the  bridge 
by  moonlight,  Sunday  afternoon  the  English  ladies  decided 
to  go  on  to  Jablanica  to  spend  the  night  so  we  did  the  same 
and  had  a  wonderful  ride  through  the  famous  "Gorge  of  the 
Narenta,"  which  is  one  of  the  three  finest  in  Europe.  The 
day  was  perfect  so  we  got  the  outlines  of  the  Mountains 
clearly  and  arrived  at  Jablanica  about  five  to  find  a  Govern- 
ment Inn  in  a  lovely  garden  on  the  river  and  had  tea  in  the 
garden  with  nightingales  singing.  It  is  a  place  where  men 
come  for  fishing  and  hunting.  The  nightingales  sang  all  night 
but  I  do  not  think  they  compare  with  our  robins. 

We  had  rather  an  uncomfortable  breakfast  and  were  ready 

to  come  on  here,  crossing  the  border  between  Herzegovina  and 

650 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

Bosnia  and  seeing  Turks.  One  old  beast  of  a  Turk  got  on  the 
train  with  two  women  with  black  veils  and  old  calico  dresses. 
At  every  station  we  saw  new  costumes  until  we  were  quite 
bewildered. 

We  crossed  over  a  high  mountain  range  with  snow  very- 
near  and  the  conductor  took  us  forward  to  see  how  the  engine 
worked  to  catch  the  rail — the  grade  was  very  steep.  It  was 
a  wonderful  ride. 

We  reached  Sarajevo  at  six  and  found  it  quite  large  and 
up  to  date.  The  hotel  pretends  to  be  modem  but  is  very 
different  from  ours.  The  town  lies  on  both  sides  of  a  river 
with  numerous  bridges  and  many  mosques,  and  looks  a  little 
like  Florence.  The  dining  saloon  was  quite  gay,  one  table 
filled  with  fine-looking  officers  wearing  an  infinite  variety  of 
uniforms,  green,  yellow,  scarlet  and  crimson  collars  and  cuffs. 
Some  of  them  had  many  decorations  and  now  that  I  am  writ- 
ing they  are  singing  "Gaudeamus  igitur"  and  banging  their 
mugs  of  beer  on  the  tables.  A  perfect  giant  sat  at  the  next 
table  to  us — an  enormous  black-bearded  creature  who  was 
considerably  over  seven  feet  tall. 

Sarajevo,  April  26th,  1910. 

This  morning,  after  a  bad  night's  sleep,  owing  to  the  noise 
in  the  cafe  and  the  street,  we  went  out  to  the  Museum  and  saw 
the  costumed  figures  representing  the  peasant  population  of 
every  part  of  Bosnia  and  Croatia. 

It  seems  very  strange  to  be  staying  in  a  place  that  I  didn't 
know  existed  and  find  it  quite  civilized  and  almost  unaware 
of  our  existence,  I  don't  think  there  is  an  English  newspaper 
in  the  house.  There  are  automobiles  darting  about  and  electric 
lights  and  telephones. 

I  sent  for  a  doctor  this  morning  to  look  at  my  throat  and 
find  he  studied  with  the  Dr.  Otis  of  Boston  at  Vienna,  (who 
is  a  friend  of  the  Landis's  that  I  met  at  Cettinje).  He  is  giving 
me  a  gargle  and  a  water  to  drink  and  seems  to  think  it  is  the 
old  bronchial  trouble — said  I  had  the  American  pharyngitis. 

651 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

I  had  hoped  to  get  on  to  Jayce  in  Bosnia  to-morrow  after- 
noon but  will  probably  wait  until  Thursday.  We  were  going 
to  the  Bazaar  tomorrow  morning  as  it  is  Market  day  and  the 
country  people  come  in  from  all  sides  in  wonderful  costumes, 
and  I  do  hope  I  will  not  miss  it. 


SARAJEVO,  CAPITAL  OF  BOSNIA 

I  do  not  believe  I  had  better  stop  at  Adelmann's  but  may 
ask  Countess  A.  to  come  in  to  Munich  to  see  us.  It  will  all 
depend  on  when  we  get  to  Vienna.  I  am  anxious  to  hear  of 
Mrs.  Whelan's  condition,  and  hope  she  is  recovering. 

Much  love  to  you  all. 

Afltly.,  M.  D.  R. 

Grand  Hotel  Hungaria,  Budapest, 

May  1st,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  sent  you  a  cablegram  last  evening  on  our  arrival  to 

let  you  know  that  we  were  here  safe  and  sound,  after  our 

arduous  trip  back  through  the  Balkans.     We  climbed  over 

them  at  least  six  or  seven  times  this  side  of  Ragusa. 

652 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

We  left  Jayce  (pronounced  Yaitze)  and  the  English  women 
with  regret,  although  we  had  time  to  look  at  it  all  thoroughly. 
The  ride  from  Sarajevo  to  Jayce  on  the  train  was  through  the 
most  beautiful  country,  high  mountains,  beautiful  rivers  and 
such  masses  of  flowering  fruit  trees  were  never  seen  elsewhere. 
They  were  mostly  prune  trees.  The  Turkish  villages  through 
Bosnia  were  a  constant  delight  as  they  are  more  picturesque 
than  any  I  have  ever  seen.     White  houses  with  black  steep 


JAYCE 

pitched  roofs,  lovely  gardens  and  plenty  of  flowing  water,  and 
lovely  minarets. 

We  were  fortunate  in  just  striking  their  market  days  and 
so  seejng  crowds  of  peasants  in  their  finery.  Also  on  nearer 
inspection  many  proved  to  be  walking  ragbags.  Jayce  had  a 
most  beautiful  waterfall  and  lovely  mosques.  They  are  making 
a  park  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  both  above  and  below  the 
Falls.  The  hotel  was  very  comfortable  but  we  had  to  go  on 
and  went  at  seven  in  a  fine  big  enclosed  auto  through  the 
Gorge  of  the  Urbas,  arriving  at  Banjaluka  in  four  hours,  going 
about  12  miles  an  hour.  It  was  very  warm  at  B.  and  walking 
through  the  town  was  rather  uncomfortable,  but  we  were  re- 
warded by  seeing  streams  of  peasants  with  the  gayest  of  cos- 
tumes. 

653 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  took  a  slow  train  to  Agram  at  3  but  hoped  to  get  there 
by  dark.  Instead  It  was  midnight  and  we  went  to  the  first 
hotel  in  Baedeker,  found  only  a  boy  up,  who  couldn't  speak 
German  and  only  learned  that  a  train  went  at  7.20.  So  we  got 
up  at  five  and  had  a  really  dreadful  time  to  get  a  breakfast 
or  our  bill,  &c.,  &c.,  but  we  finally  got  off  and  then  found  that 
it  was  another  slow  train  and  that  there  was  a  fast  train  in 
the  afternoon. 

We  preferred  anything  to  going  back  and  found  our  train 
would  get  here  two  hours  earlier  than  the  other.  A  comfort- 
able first  class  car  made  it  easy  as  we  were  able  to  lie  down 
and  get  naps  and  had  the  compartment  to  ourselves.  It  was 
a  terribly  stormy  day,  cold  rain  and  we  thought  how  lucky 
we  were  to  have  had  the  perfect  day  for  the  auto  ride  and  all 
our  trips  through  Bosnia  for  the  country  was  flat  and  unin- 
teresting after  Agram. 

I  forgot  to  tell  you  about  the  queer  costumes  we  saw  be- 
tween Banjaluka  and  Agram.  The  men  wore  straight  up  and 
down  white  drawers  embroidered  in  openwork  a  half  yard 
deep  at  the  bottom  and  over  that  a  full  jacket  of  white  also 
embroidered  around  the  edges  and  belted  in  so  it  stuck  out 
over  the  hips,  then  a  Zouave  jacket  over  that.  They  really 
had  the  most  comical  appearance  you  can  imagine.  But  the 
most  amusing  mixture  was  a  priest  in  a  brown  robe,  like  the 
Franciscans,  with  a  curled  up  moustache  and  a  common 
black  Derby  hat.    We  have  seen  some  funny  sights. 

We  are  going  out  to  drive  around  the  town  (Budapest) 

although  it  threatens  rain,  but  we  cannot  lose  time  and  hope 

to  take  the  5   p.  m.  train   tomorrow  arriving   at  Vienna   at 

9.30.     Hoping  you  will  get  the  cablegram  all  right,  with  love 

to  all. 

Affly,  M.  D.  R. 

Budapest,  Sunday  afternoon,  May  i,  19 10. 

We  drove  about  all  afternoon  through  the  city  then  went 
up  to  the  "Burg,"  the  Emperor's  Schloss  high  up  in  the  old 

654 


THE  BALKANS  AND  AUSTRIA 

town  across  the  river.  There  were  the  loveHest  gardens  in 
front  of  it  and  a  splendid  terrace  with  statues  overlooking  the 
Danube  with  the  Margareten-Insel.  There  were  rose  trees 
set  in  circles  of  forget-me-nots  and  the  latter  such  healthy 
vivid  blue  (so  unlike  the  weak  sickly-looking  plants  we  have) 
and  they  were  in  long  beds  of  giant  pansies. 

Then  we  went  on  to  the  Margareten-Insel,  a  summer  re- 
sort with  music  and  restaurants  and  a  band  was  playing  while 
we  took  our  tea  and  strawberries  (wild  ones  with  no  flavor). 
It  was  too  early  to  see  society  and  when  we  came  back  we 
went  out  on  the  street  behind  the  hotel  and  found  the  pave- 
ments covered  with  chairs  and  tables  and  fine-looking  people. 

This  street  goes  along  the  river  and  looks  up  to  the  Burg. 


ROYAL  PALACE,  BUDAPEST 

It  is  very  difficult  to  get  along  here  as  not  one  sign  even  in 
the  Railway  Stations  is  legible,  all  being  in  the  Hungarian 
language.  Even  in  Bosnia  and  Herzegovina  they  had  the 
signs  in  four  languages,  but  here  there  is  nothing,  and  if  I 
did  not  speak  German  I  could  not  have  got  on.  I  have  just 
had  a  telegram  that  they  cannot  give  us  rooms  until  Tuesday, 
so  will  leave  Tuesday  morning,  3rd  of  May,  for  Vienna. 

Mr.  Gorton  has  just  written  us  that  he  is  leaving  Vienna 
to-day,  couldn't  stay  longer  and  has  spoken  to  the  hotel  pro- 
prietor about  our  rooms,  and  we  get  there  to-morrow  night. 

655 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

It  rained  all  our  stay  in  Budapest  except  Sunday  after- 
noon, when  we  made  all  possible  use  of  our  time.  In  Vienna 
it  rained,  poured,  all  but  one  day,  but  we  managed  to  see 
about  everything  and  went  one  night  to  Grand  Opera  and  an- 
other to  hear  the  new  comic  opera,  by  the  composer  of  "The 
Merry  Widow,"  "The  Graf  von  Luxemburg."  The  Opera 
House  is  beautiful  and  "Faust"  was  delightful. 

Vienna  is  a  charming  place  and  so  gay.  It  is  still  raining 
and  bitterly  cold.  Mrs.  R.  has  of  course  written  you  of  her 
plans.  We  shall  hope  for  better  weather  at  Sigmaringen.  It 
W'Ould  be  so  nice  if  you  were  here  for  this  part  of  the  "tour," 
which  you  would  like.  You  never  would  have  gone  through 
the  other  part. 

With  love  for  the  family. 

Affectionately  and  gratefully,  Maria. 


EN  ROUTE 

Hotel  Bristol,  Vienna, 

Thurs.,  May  4th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  came  here  Monday  in  a  pouring  rain  and  in  the  same 
train  with  Sydney  Hutchinson  and  his  wife  and  it  has  poured 
steadily  ever  since.  They  got  disgusted  and  shipped  their 
auto  to  Paris  and  expect  to  sail  the  end  of  this  month. 

We  have  gone  to  some  churches  and  museums  and  the 
state  apartments  in  the  Hof  Burg,  but  have  had  no  chance  to 
walk  about  the  streets  or  see  the  life.  Tuesday  night  we  went 
to  the  Opera,  Faust,  hearing  their  best  tenor.  We  had  seats 
in  the  second  row  of  the  Parquet  and  enjoyed  every  minute 
of  it.  The  orchestra  was  superb,  the  singers  good,  but  not 
great,  and  they  gave  the  whole  Walpurgis  Nacht  with  the 
most  superb  ballet  I  ever  saw.  The  house  is  very  handsome, 
in  a  sort  of  light  chocolate  and  gold.  I  have  not  yet  found  out 
who  the  leader  or  singers  were,  but  will  do  so. 

People  came  in  here  afterwards  for  supper  and  it  was  very 
gay  here.  Yesterday  Dr.  Otis  and  his  family  turned  up,  the 
one  I  wrote  you  was  a  friend  of  the  Landis's,  and  that  we 
met  at  Cettinje.  They  are  going  to  stay  two  months.  The 
Volckens  also  came  yesterday  and  leave  to-morrow. 

It  is  still  raining  and  to-morrow  is  our  last  chance  to  get  to 
Schonbrunn.    To-night  we  are  going  to  see  the  "Graf  von  Lux- 
emburg "  by  the  man  who  wrote  the  "Merry  Widow "  and  hope 
to  find  it  as  amusing  as  they  say  it  is. 
42  657 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

We  leave  Saturday  morning  for  Munich  and  hope  for  a 
clear  day  to  go  through  the  Tyrol,  Linz  and  Salzburg  to  AIu- 
nich,  I  have  planned  to  spend  Sunday  there  and  go  on  Monday 
to  Sigmaringen  and  on  Wednesday  morning  to  Zurich  and  take 
the  night  train  to  Paris,  where  I  have  rooms  reserved  at  the 
Hotel  Crillon.  My  next  will  be  from  Sigmaringen,  It  was 
nice  to  get  the  photos  and  see  you  all  looking  the  same  as  ever. 

With  much  love  to  all, 

Your  aff.,  M.  D.  R. 

P.  S.  I  will  attend  to  the  return  trip  the  moment  I  get  to 
Paris.  It  is  much  easier  to  get  accommodations  there.  One 
cannot  get  the  Lusitania  or  Mauretania  at  Cherbourg,  so  it 
will  probably  be  a  Hamburg-American  Ship. 

Grand  Hotel  Continental,  Munchen, 

May  5th,  19 lo. 
Dear  Mr.  Rosengarten, 

You  were,  I  am  sure  greatly  relieved  to  get  the  cable  from 
Budapest  telling  you  we  were  safely  out  of  "Savage  Europe," 
as  an  Englishman  has  called  his  book  on  Bosnia.  I  felt  on  a 
nervous  strain  until  we  got  into  civilization,  but  now  that  it  is 
over  I  can  look  back  upon  it  all  as  a  w^onderful  experience  and 
shall  always  remember  with  joy  the  beautiful  and  interesting 
places  and  things  that  I  have  seen. 

It  was  a  hard  trip  from  the  time  we  left  Venice  and  I  feared 
it  would  be  too  much  for  Mrs.  Rosengarten,  but  we  had  prac- 
tically no  discomfort  and  received  kind  and  courteous  treat- 
ment from  every  one,  especially  the  train  conductors,  who 
seemed  to  look  upon  us  as  their  special  charges.  As  Mrs.  R. 
has  probably  written  you,  we  were  never  really  alone  until  we 
reached  Agram,  for  the  two  English  women  were  with  us  until 
we  left  Jayce,  and  then  some  Germans  with  whom  we  had 
talked  were  in  the  motor  and  train  until  we  got  to  Agram. 

Mrs.  R.  has  written  you  so  fully  about  each  place  that  it 

would  bore  you  to  hear  of  them  again,  so  I  will  spare  you 

descriptions.    To  me  Herzegovina  and  Bosnia  were  even  more 

658 


EN  ROUTE 

interesting  than  Dalmatia  and  much  more  beautiful.  The 
scenery  between  Jayce  and  Banjaluka  is  the  finest  of  my 
experience. 

We  were  childishly  excited  the  night  we  arrived  at  Buda- 
pest. It  seemed  like  getting  to  Heaven  to  find  ourselves  in  a 
good  Hotel  and  among  civilized  people,  but  I  fancy  Heaven 
will  not  be  quite  as  gay  and  giddy  as  the  dining  room  of  the 
Hotel  Hungaria. 

Grand  Hotel  Continental,  Munchen, 
Sunday,  May  8th,i9io. 
Dear  Clifford, 

Two  of  your  letters  came  almost  together  and  where  the 
others  are  I  do  not  know.  I  have  been  very  careful  not  to 
order  the  mail  to  out  of  the  way  places  and  always  stopped  it 
several  days  before  leaving  a  place,  so  none  should  arrive  too 
late. 

We  hated  to  leave  Vienna,  it  was  so  gay  and  bright,  al- 
though it  rained  steadily  and  blew  a  fearful  gale  from  Sunday 
to  Friday,  when  it  cleared  and  got  warm  and  I  went  out  to 
Schonbrunn  and  had  a  perfect  view,  but  yesterday  it  started 
in  again  here  and  is  just  now  stopping  at  5  p.  m.  We  went  out 
to  the  picture  gallery  and  the  Frauen  Kirche  and  some  others, 
among  them  a  very  ornate  chapel,  where  King  Ludwig  the  mad 
King  is  buried.  Tomorrow  we  shall  go  to  the  Alte  Residenz 
before  going  to  take  the  train  to  Sigmaringen,  to  stay  over 
Monday  and  Tuesday  nights,  leaving  Wednesday  morning, 
nth,  for  Zurich,  and  night  train  to  Paris  where  I  have  secured 
rooms  at  the  Crillon,  a  new  Hotel  every  one  speaks  well  of. 

King  Edward's  sudden  death  Friday  night  has  made  a 
great  sensation.  None  of  you  have  said  anything  more  about 
Mrs.  Whelen,  after  saying  she  was  at  the  point  of  death,  so  I 
take  it  she  has  recovered. 

Your  Father  wrote  that  Hammerstein  asked  about  my 
seats  at  the  Opera.  Will  you  please  write  that  if  the  present 
arrangement  continues  I  wish  to  keep  my  same  seats  for  next 

659 


EIGHT  JOURNia  S  ABROAD 

year.  The  newspapers  say  that  the  MetropoHtan  has  bought 
out  Hammcrstein  and  taken  over  his  artistes.  I  wonder  if  that 
is  true.  Please  attend  to  this  for  me.  Please  tell  Annie  to 
have  the  house  in  summer  trim,  everything  put  away  and  the 
parlor  ready  to  close. 

I  got  you  a  Bosnian  weapon  In  a  beautiful  sheath,  old  Bos- 
nian work,  and  hope  you  will  like  it.  You  said  not  to  get 
handkerchiefs  or  stockings.  We  had  a  lovely  ride  through 
Salzburg,  Linz,  and  along  the  Chiemsee.  We  had  a  peep  at 
the  Tyrolean  Alps  when  the  clouds  lifted  at  Linz. 

Hoping  you  are  quite  well  again,  with  much  love, 

Aflflv,  M.  D.  R. 


FRANCE 

Hotel  de  Crillon,  Paris, 
Saturday  eve.,  May  14th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

We  had  a  rainy  day  for  our  trip  to  Zurich  and  only  saw  the 
Museum  and  were  reHeved  to  find  we  did  not  have  to  wait 
until  midnight  to  get  our  sleeping  car,  but  got  one  direct  from 
Zurich. 


HOTEL  DE  CRILLON,  PARIS 


I  think  the  Adelmanns  hated  to  have  us  go,  they  were  so 
friendly  and  nice.  Of  course  we  were  only  there  over  one  day, 
but  we  went  all  over  the  castle  which  is  now  finished  and  Maria 
took  a  long  walk  late  every  afternoon  with  Count  A.     He  has 


661 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

aged  some  and  grown  stouter  and  Countess  A.  was  so  lovely. 
Maria  got  along  famously  with  them  and  seemed  very  much 
impressed  with  her  experience  there.  I  told  them  that  they 
must  absolutely  come  to  us  that  we  must  not  do  all  the  visiting. 
Count  A.  said  that  we  must  come  and  make  a  trip  through 
Northern  Germany  and  make  their  house  the  headquarters,  they 
couldn't  understand  why  you  hadn't  been  willing  to  come  over. 


X       '    *  ^^BSues&er—^nSSiksiaiix 


HOTEL  DE  CRILLON,  PLACE  DE  LA  CONCORDE.  PARIS 

We  got  here  at  six-thirty  Thursday  morning  and  were 
delighted  with  this  hotel.  It  is  the  building  I  always  thought 
was  the  Rothschild's  house.  It  is  the  Ancient  Hotel  de  Crillon 
owned  by  the  Duke  de  Polignac,  facing  the  Place  de  la  Con- 
corde and  on  the  side  that  is  the  continuation  of  the  Rue  de 
Rivoli  just  beyond  the  Rue  Royale. 

You  cannot  imagine  the  traffic  and  the  danger  of  crossing. 
It  rained  hard  Thursday,  but  I  went  at  once  and  secured  a 
good  stateroom  on  the  Cincinnati  for  May  27th  from  Cher- 
bourg. 

We  are  very  comfortably  fixed  here.     I  like  It  better  than 

662 


FRANCE 

any  hotel  I  have  ever  been  in  here.  We  were  so  tired  that  we 
have  not  done  much  but  rest.  The  Gortons  arrived  to-day  from 
London  in  their  car  and  are  going  to  take  us  out  to  lunch 


HOTEL  DE  CRILLON,  PARIS 


THE  GARDEN',  HOT 


DE  CRILLON,  PARIS 


to-morrow   at    either    Pre    Catalan  or    d'Armenonville.      He 

sails  on  Wednesday  next. 

I  also  met  Miss  de  Coppet,  who  seems  to  be  with  some  one 

who  has  an  automobile  and  she  goes  back  Wednesday.     She 

asked  if  Clifford  were  with  me.     The  Gortons  have  been  to 

England  for  the  wedding  of  her  niece  and  had  a  great  time 

663 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

there.  Lady  Pole-Care w,  who  came  over  to  Quebec  with  the 
Prince  of  Wales'  party  and  a  celebrated  beauty,  is  the  niece  of 
Mrs.  Gorton's  sister.  Pierpont  Morgan  was  at  the  wedding 
and  sent  a  superb  diamond  ornament  that  Mr.  Gorton  says 
must  have  cost  ^20,000,  large  pear-shaped  diamonds.  The 
young  lady  is  a  Miss  Butler  and  marries  a  young  Drummond 
in  the  English  Navy. 

I  imagine  we  will  have  some  good  times  with  the  automo- 
bile while  the  Gortons  are  here.  I  have  not  yet  let  the 
Rochambeaus  know  I  am  here,  but  will  do  so  soon.  I  ordered 
my  underclothing  and  got  a  hat  for  Countess  Adelmann.  I 
am  too  tired  to  write  more  to-night.  Will  write  often.  Much 
love,  and  hoping  to  see  you  soon. 

Affly,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  de  Crillon,  Paris, 
Monday,  May  i6th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  wrote  you  Saturday  evening  and  yesterday  a  little  before 
noon,  we  went  off  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gorton  in  their  beauti- 
ful Packard  limousine  to  the  Pre  Catalan  in  the  Bois  and  had 
lunch  there  in  a  great  white  room  with  all  glass  walls  looking 
out  on  beautiful  flowers  and  exquisite  green.  It  was  as  warm  as 
summer  and  after  lunch  we  went  on  to  Versailles  and  Maria  saw 
everything  hurriedly,  and  then  we  came  home  in  clouds  of  dust. 

I  never  saw  so  many  automobiles  in  all  my  life  and  it  was 
one  great  cloud  of  dust  and  I  feel  that  Paris  is  ruined  by 
automobiles.  As  it  was  Sunday  and  the  first  warm  sunny  day 
for  two  weeks  the  whole  population  was  out  and  we  got  into  a 
bicycle  race  between  Suresnes  and  Versailles  that  had  left 
Bordeaux  at  five  in  the  morning.  There  were  one  million  more 
or  less  bicycles  and  riders  waiting  along  the  sides  of  the  road 
and  it  was  dusty  and  hot. 

To-day  was  a  holiday  and  nothing  open,  so  Maria  and  I 

got  a  good  rest.     I  haven't  had  time  to  make  any  calls  so  I 

have  written  to  the  Countess  de  Rochambeau  asking  them  to 

come  here  to  dine  on  Friday  evening. 

664 


FRANCE 

I  was  much  surprised  to  meet  Mr.  Stotesbury  in  the  hall 
this  p.  M.  He  and  the  Hutchinsons  had  moved  over  from  the 
Bristol.  It  seems  the  H's  had  engaged  rooms  for  Mr.  S.  there 
and  when  he  arrived  they  hadn't  a  room — said  the  King  of 
Greece  and  the  Prince  of  that  had  arrived  and  had  to  have 
the  rooms,  so  they  said  if  they  cared  more  for  the  King  of 
Greece  than  Americans  they  would  go  elsewhere,  so  they  all 
moved  over  here. 

Mr.  Gorton  says  the  McCormicks  arrived  to-day  at  this 
hotel.  He  has  been  Ambassador  in  several  places.  I  cannot 
think  where  I  met  her. 

The  time  is  flying  and  we  have  so  far  done  very  little.  Our 
train  leaves  for  Cherbourg  on  Friday  27th  at  one  o'clock,  and 
I  feel  as  if  I  had  enough  moving  about  of  trunks  for  some  time. 

The  French  people  seem  all  to  have  lost  their  taste — they 
wear  such  enormous  hats  and  such  wigs  and  are  so  painted 
and  wear  such  tight  skirts  that  they  all  look  disreputable. 
Well  I  must  say  good  night  and  look  forward  to  being  with 
you  soon.  I  also  look  forward  to  riding  to  Philadelphia  in 
our  newly  painted  Packard.  Mrs.  G.  says  she  thinks  the  1907 
was  the  best  car  they  have  had  but  their  1910  moves  without 
a  hitch.  They  got  an  Italian  chauifeur  in  New  York  for  this 
trip.    Much  love  to  all.  Affly,  M.  D.  R. 

Hotel  de  Crillon,  Paris, 

May  19th,  1910. 
Dear  Frank, 

I  went  to  the  Bank  this  morning  and  got  a  letter  from  Betty 
and  one  from  you  saying  you  should  not  write  again.  I  am 
sorry  to  miss  Katherine  Fowler's  wedding.  I  think  you  can 
get  Fanny  Rosengarten  or  Betty  to  help  you  buy  a  present. 
Ask  Mr.  Caldwell  to  show  you  some  Dutch  silver,  the  sort  of 
things  I  buy.  You  know  the  sort  of  things  I  have  had  sent 
home  to  choose  from. 

We  went  to  the  Countess  Rene  de  Rochambeau's  for  tea 

this  afternoon.     She  had  said  I  would  meet  her  mother-in-law 

and  sister-in-law,  the  mother  of  the  young  Marquis.    We  found 

665 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

a  lot  of  people,  about  twenty,  and  we  didn't  know  who  any  of 
them  were.  The  old  Marquise  came  in  and  of  course  asked 
about  all  the  family,  especially  Joe  and  Fanny  and  Lina.  None 
of  the  people  talked  to  us  as  the  Countess  gathered  us  all 
around  the  table  and  it  was  rather  embarrassing,  but  I  think 
more  to  them  than  to  us. 


C"OU\T  DE  ROCHAMBEAU 

The  Count  and  Countess  will  come  to  us  for  dinner  Tues- 
day of  next  week  and  I  may  ask  Mr.  Stotesbury.  We  go  to 
the  Marquise  for  dinner  some  evening  before  we  sail  a  week 
from  tomorrow.  The  Hutchlnsons  sail  Saturday  on  the  Lusi- 
tania  and  Mrs.  Chester  and  husband  (he  is  Admiral  Chester's 
son)  go  on  Wednesday  night  next. 

Mrs.  Gorton  took  us  out  in  her  automobile  this  morning 

666 


FRANCE 

but  I  find  one  does  not  accomplish  much  going  with  other 
people.  Mr.  Gorton  sailed  yesterday.  Mrs.  Munn,  the  mother- 
in-law  of  Mary  Paul,  put  her  younger  son  in  his  charge.  I 
took  Mrs.  Gorton  to  lunch  today  at  Durand's,  as  she  had 
lunched  us  Sunday  and  I  thought  of  you  as  we  ate  artichokes 
with  Hollandaise  sauce. 


COUNTESS   DE   ROCHAMBEAU 


We  went  last  night  to  see  L'Attaque  da  Moulin,  by  Erck- 
mann-Chatrian  and  found  it  set  to  music.  Mme.  Delna,  a 
great  contralto,  sang  magnificently  and  I  never  saw  finer  act- 
ing than  hers.    The  audience  nearly  tore  them  to  pieces. 

I  am  so  tired.     I  w^onder  if  you  will  see  the  Halley  comet. 

It  has  been  too  cloudy  to  see  it  but  it  will  be  seen  in  England 

to-night.    With  much  love  to  all. 

Affly,  M.  D.  R 

667 


THE  END. 

Coronado,  California,  June  12th,  191 3. 

General  Offley  Shore, 
Office  of  General  Staff, 
Simla,  India. 

Dear  Offley, 

You  cannot  realize  how  little  strength  I  have  and  why  it 
should  tax  me  so  to  write. 

The  Doctor  Lorini,  a  fascinating  man  of  Italian  descent, 
educated  in  France  and  at  the  University  of  Pa.,  doesn't  give 
me  much  hope  of  being  better.  They  have  given  the  vaccine 
a  thorough  trial  and  it  seems  to  have  been  of  no  use.  I  still 
have  the  chill  followed  by  fever  through  the  best  part  of  the  day. 
This  absorbs  my  strength  so  that  now  I  am  taken  care  of  just 
like  an  infant.  They  find  my  heart  keeps  up  all  right,  which  is 
a  great  deal,  and  yet  if  I  cannot  even  stand  a  minute,  of  what 
use  am  I.^  I  fear  I  will  never  get  back  home  again.  I  often 
think  of  the  day  I  left  my  home  in  the  auto,  and  the  delightful 
trip  we  had,  and  that  I  have  never  been  back. 

How  I  wish  you  could  see  the  flowers  here.  The  roses  are 
like  great  cabbages  in  size,  and  most  wonderful  are  the  shad- 
ings. They  all  grow  just  like  weeds;  their  stems  are  twice  as 
thick  as  ours;  the  Canterbury  Bells  are  enormous. 

I  made  my  dessert  tonight  of  enormous  cherries  brought 
down  from  La  Mesa,  back  in  the  Mountains,  and  a  delicious 
peach.  We  are  now  having  strawberries,  raspberries,  cherries, 
peaches,  apricots,  and  shortly  ripe  figs,  melons,  &c.  It  has  been 
a  freak  year,  fog  morning  and  night,  all  the  time,  unheard  ot 
before,  but  one  day  is  like  another  in  temperature  so  I  am  not 
subject  to  changes.  The  doctors  say  they  cannot  understand 
how  I  have  avoided  tuberculosis.  I  shall  certainly  avoid  places 
where  tubercular  people  go.  My  cough  is  incessant  during  the 
day,  but  I  get  along  fairly  well  at  night.     I  must  cough  to  get 

668 


EIGHT  JOURNEYS  ABROAD 

rid  of  the  sputum,  otherwise  I  would  be  drowned  in  it.     I  see 
no  future  but  am  fighting  for  my  life. 

It  was  all  so  sudden  to  be  cut  completely  out  of  everything 
without  any  warning. 

I  don't  understand  how  you  get  flowers  to  grow  6  and  8,000 
ft.  up  in  the  Mts.  They  keep  me  supplied  with  flowers  from 
the  Hotel  Gardens  and  Dr.  Lorini  keeps  me  supplied  with 
books. 

How  I  wish  you  and  Lina  could  be  here  with  us,  and  I  hope 
I  may  live  to  see  you  again. 

Much  love  to  you  both  and  thanks  for  your  kind  letters. 
Do  write  often.  Sam  and  Aunt  Laura  are  coming  out  early  in 
August. 

Affectionately  yours,  M.  D.  R. 


She  passed  away  peacefully,  after  months  of  suffering,  on 
the  29th  of  October,  191 3. 


APPENDIX 


APPENDIX 


HER  SON  CLIFFORD,  IX  UNIFORM  OF  1st  CITY 
TROOP  IN  CAMPAIGN  OF  1898 


AND  IN  U.  S.  ARMY  IN  1917 
673 


APPENDIX 


674 


APPENDIX 


675 


APPENDIX 


CASTANIAN,  HOME  IX  GERMAXTOWN 


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JAMESTOWN  HOME  IN  1885 
676 


APPENDIX 


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JAMESTOWN  HOME  AS  SHE  CHANGED  IT.  1912 


GARDEN  AT  JAMESTOWN,  1912 


677 


APPENDIX 


GRAPE  AND  PLUM  ARBOR  IN  1912 


THE  HOME  IN  NEWPORT,  R.  I.,  li 
678 


APPENDIX 


INTERIOR  OF  JAMESTOWN  HOME  IN  1912 


THE  LAST  DAY  IN  THE  GARDEN,  JAMESTOWN,  1912 


679 


APPENDIX 


THE  VILLA  AT  CORONADO,  CALIFORNIA,  1913 


IN  THE  GARDEN  AT  CORONADO,  CALIFORNIA,  1913 


THE  CORONADO  VILLA 
680 


APPENDIX 

Mrs.   Rosengarten   was  a  director   from  the  formation   of 

THE  PHILADELPHIA  ORCHESTRA  ASSOCIATION 

(Incorporated  1903) 

The  Membership  of  this  Association  is  confined  by  its  By-Laws  to 

THE  GUARANTORS,  whose  ranks  you  are  invited  to  join  by  subscribing  Twenty-five  Dollars 

or  more  to  the  guarantee  fund,  and  thus  aid  in 

Maintaining  and  Operating 

THE  PHILADELPHIA  ORCHESTRA 

(founded  1900) 
Carl  Pohlig,  Conductor 


OFFICERS 
Alex.  Van  Rensselaer,  President 

Thomas  McKean,  Vice-President 

Andrew  Wheeler,  Secretary,  1608  Market  Street 
Arthur  E.  Newbold,  Treasurer,  Drexel  &  Co.,  Fifth  and  Chestnut  Streets 


EXECUTIVE  COMMITTEE 


Charles  A.  Braun 
Richard  Y.  Cook 
Mrs.  A.  J.  Dallas  Dixon 
C.  Hartman  Kuhn 
Thomas  McKean 


Arthur  E.  Newbold 
G.  Heide  Norris 
Miss  Anne  Thomson 
Alex.  Van  Rensselaer 
Andrew  Wheeler 


Mrs.  W.  W.  Arnett 
Charles  A.  Braun 
James  Crosby  Brown 
Richard  Y.  Cook 
EcKLEY  B.  Coxe,  Jr. 
Mrs.  a.  J.  Dallas  Dixon 
Theodore  N.  Ely 


BOARD  OF  DIRECTORS 
Miss  Mary  K.  Gibson 
Clement  A.  Griscom 
John  H.  Ingham 
C.  Hartman  Kuhn 
Thomas  McKean 
Arthur  E.  Newbold 
Clement  B.  Newbold 
G.  Heide  Norris 


Mrs.  F.  H.  Rosengarten 
Edgar  Scott 
E.  T.  Stotesbury 
Miss  Anne  Thomson 
Alex.  Van  Rensselaer 
Andrew  Wheeler 
Miss  F.  A.  Wister 


MANAGER  AND  COMPTROLLER 
Horace  Churchman 


PUBLICITY  MANAGER 
Harvey  M.  Watts 


COUNSEL 
G.  Heide  Norris 

BUSINESS  OFFICE 

13 14  Pennsylvania  Building,  15th  and  Chestnut  Streets, 

Philadelphia 

681 


APPENDIX 

THE  EURYDICE  CHORUS 

of  Philadelphia. 

Mrs.  Frank  H.  Rosengarten,  President. 

Dr.  Horatio  Parker 
Conductor. 

TWENTY-FIFTH  SEASON— 1910-1911 

The  Chorus  Will  be  Assisted  by 

THE  ORPHEUS  CLUB 

and 

Mr.  Edward  G.  McCollin Baritone 

Mrs.  Emma  F.  Rihl Soprano 

Mrs.  John  Jay  Joyce,  Jr Contralto 

Mrs.  Dorothy  Johnstone  Baseler Harpist 

Mr.  John  Witzemann Violinist 

Mr.  Philip  Schmitz Violoncellist 

Mr.  Anton  Horner French  Horn 

Mr.  Paul  Fischer Flute 

and 

Mr.  Ellis  Clark  Hammann 

Pianist 

HORTICULTURAL  HALL 

Thursday  Evening,  April  27th,  191 1,  at  8.15  o'clock. 


THE  EURYDICE  CHORUS 

Founded  by  the  Late  Mrs.  Charles  Hazelhurst. 
1886  1911 

TWENTY-FIFTH  ANNIVERSARY  CONCERT 
Original  Committee 
President,  Mrs.  Charles  Hazlehurst 
Mrs.  Herman  V.  Hilprecht 
Mrs.  a.  J.  Dallas  Dixon 
Mrs.  Dennis  McCarthy 
Miss  Sally  W.  Fisher 

First  Conductor 

Michael  H.  Cross 

From  1886  Until  His  Death  in  1897 

The  first  part  of  the  concert  will  be  a  memorial  to  Mr.  Michael  H.  Cross  and  will  include 
several  numbers  from  the  programme  of  the  first  Eurydice  concert,  given  April  19,  1887, 
as  well  as  two  numbers  from  the  original  programme  of  The  Orpheus  Club,  given  December 
7,    1872. 


APPENDIX 

TWENTY-FIFTH  ANNIVERSARY  CONCERT 
1897  (Continued)  1905 

Dr.  Frank  Damrosch 
Conductor 


Fritz  Scheel 

Conductor 

1905-1907 

in 
Memoriam 


Dr.  W.  W.  Gilchrist 

Conductor 
February,  1907 — April,  1907 

Dr.  Horatio  Parker 
Was  Unanimously  Elected  Conductor  for  the  Season  of  1907-1908 

Dr.  Gilchrist,  Dr.  Damrosch,  Dr.  Parker 

Conductors  of  The  Eurydice  Chorus 

Dr.  Frank  Damrosch,  Dr.  W.  W.  Gilchrist,  Dr.  Horatio  Parker 
Dr.  Chadwick  and  Mr.  David  Stanley  Smith  will  each  conduct  a  number  of  their  own 
compositions  to  honor  the  Twenty-fifth  Anniversary  of  the  Chorus. 


TWENTY-FIFTH  ANNIVERSARY  CONCERT 
Mrs.  Frank  H.  Rosengarten,  President. 


PROGRAMME 

PART  I. 

In  Memoriam 

Mendelssohn Laudate   Puerl 

(The  first  piece  ever  sung  in  public  by  the  Eurydice  Chorus) 

The  Eurydice  Chorus 

Curschman Flower  Greeting 

Trio 

Mrs.  Holt,  Mrs.  Hollingshead,  Miss  Dercum 

Joseph  Hatton Summer  Eve 

The  Eurydice  Chorus 
Kreutzer The  Chapel 

Zollner Champagne  Song 

The  Orpheus  Club 
683 


APPENDIX 

PART  II. 
R.  Schumann Dcr  Nussbaum 

The  Eurydice  Chorus 

Violin  and  Harp 

Songs  for  Baritone 

George  W.  Chadwick,  and  conducted  by  him (a)  "Before  the  Dawn" 

Horatio  Parker,   and  conducted  by    him (b)  "Once  I  Loved  a  Maiden  Fair" 

W.  W.  Gilchrist,  and  conducted  by  him.  .  .(c)  "Canst  Thou  Leave  Me  Thus,  My  Katy" 

Mr.  Edward  G.  McCollin 

David  Stanley  Smith The  Sleeping  Priestess 

The  Eurydice  Chorus 
Conducted  by  the  Composer 

Mrs.  John  Jay  Joyce,  Jr. 

Richard  Strauss Alle  Meine  Gedanken 

Johannes  Brahms Im  Herbst 

Henry  Gordon  Thunder A  Love  Song 

Dr.  Frank  Damrosch The  Violet 

Conducted  by  the  Composer 

PART  III 
VV.  VV.  Gilchrist The  Syrens 

Mrs.  Emma  F.  Rihl 

Campbell  Tipton A  Spirit  Flower 

Ellis  Clark  Hammann The  Daffodils 

Xavier  Leroux Le  Nil 

With  Violin  Obligato 
George  Whitefield  Chadwick Spring  Beauties 

A  New  Piece  Dedicated  to  The  Eurydice  Chorus 
Conducted  by  the  Composer 

Horatio  Parker,  and  conducted  by  him In  May 

Edward  Kremser  A  Prayer  of  Thanksgiving 

The  Orpheus  Club 

AND 

The  Eurydice  Chorus 


OFFICERS 


President 
Mrs.  Frank  H.  Rosengarten 1905  Walnut  Street 

Vice-Presidents 

Mrs.  Alexander  J.  Cassatt Haverford,  Pa. 

Mrs.  Alexander  J.  Dallas  Dixon 1015  Clinton  Street 

Mrs.  Louis  F.  Benson 2014  DeLancey  Place 

Treasurer 
Miss  Marie  W.  Paul 930  Chestnut  Street 

Assistant  Treasurer 
Miss  Margaret  M.  Riley 1509  Spruce  Street 

684 


APPENDIX 

Secretary 
Mrs.  B.  Fraxklin  Rittenhouse 4613  Leiper  Street,  Frankford 

Assistant  Secretary 
Miss  Mary  Grubb  Smith 2039  Walnut  Street 

Librarian 
Mrs.  Harlow  Voorhees Elkins  Park,  Pa. 

Honorary  Members 
Mr.  Charles  D.  Barney       Rev.  Dr.  Louis  F.  Benson       Dr.  Frank  Damrosch 
Mrs.  Henry  Drayton  Mr.  Frank  H.  Rosengarten 


Active  Members 


Miss  Elsie  L.  Bailey 
Miss  Clara  'SI.  Barba 
Miss  Elsie  Bein 
Miss  Bertha  D.   Benson 
Mrs.  Louis  F.  Benson 
Mrs.  Joseph  S.  Bunting 
Mrs.  Henry  W.  Butterworth 
Miss  Ethel  Altemus  Byrd 
Mrs.  a.  J.  Cassatt 
Mrs.  Catlin 

Miss  Anne  H.  Chamberlain 
Mrs.  Nettie  Moore  Chaine 
Miss  Clara  T.  Chase 
Mrs.  Coloney 
Mrs.  J.  Barratt  Conner 
Miss  Jean  Aldrich  Conrad 
Mrs.  Norman  W.  Cramp 
Miss  Susanna  E.  Dercum 
Mrs.  a.  J.  Dallas  Dixon 
Mrs.  S.  Naudain  Duer 
Mrs.  H.  a.  Everett 
Mrs.  C.  L.  Flanagan 
Mrs.  Stephen  Fuguet 
Miss  Beulah  C.  Garretson 
Mrs.  Horace  T.  Greenwood 
Miss  M  Matilda  Halsey 
Mrs.  L.  J.  Ha.mmond 
Miss  Fanny  C.  Haupt 
Miss  Bertha  VV.  Held 
Miss  M.  Louise  Held 
Mrs.  John  Holt 
Mrs.  Maud  H.  Hollingshead 
Mrs.  Archibald  B.  Hubard 
Mrs.  Joseph  B.  Hutchinson 
Mrs.  Walter  H.  Johnson 
Mrs.  John  Jay  Joyce,  Jr. 
Mrs.  Olive  Boyce  Judson 
Mrs.  Chares  Y.  DeV.  Keefe 


Mrs.  E.  L.  Kennedy 
Mrs.  Frank  G.  Kennedy 
Miss  Edith  Noel'  Kurtz 
Miss  Fanny  Lamb 
Mrs.  Percy  Legge 
Mrs.  Fielding  Otis  Lewis 
Mrs.  Wm.  Henderson  Long 
Miss  Anna  K.  Lorimer 
Mrs.  S.  M.  A4eryweather 
Mrs.  William  O.  Miller 
Miss  Myra  V.  Monk 
Mrs.  Emilie  Bailey  Myers 
Mrs.  Harold  Nason 
Miss  Marie  W.  Paul 
Miss  Alice  G.  Phillips 
Mrs.  William  P.  Remington 
Miss  Margaret  \L  Riley 
Mrs.  Albert  Rihl 
Mrs.  B.  F.  Rittenhouse 
Mrs.  George  W.  B.   Roberts 
Mrs.  Owen  J.  Roberts 
Mrs.  Frank  H.  Rosengarten 
Miss  Rumpp 
Mrs'  Wayne  Schantz 
Mrs.  Harold  \l.  Sill 
Mrs.  Frederick  Schick 
Miss  Mary  Grubb  Smith 
Miss  Marion  Spangler 
Mrs.  G.  W.  Stewart 
Mrs.  Sydney  Thayer 
Mrs.  Henry  C.  Thompson 
Mrs.  W.  H.  Tutwiler 
Miss  Harriet  H.  Van  Bau.m 
Mrs.  Harlow  Voorhees 
Miss  Helen  Voorhees 
Miss  Frances  N.  White 
Mrs.  J.  G.  Wilson 
Mrs.  Robert  K.  Wright 


APPENDIX 


Breezy  Meadows,  Metcalf,  Mass. 

May  31st,  1916. 
My  dear  Mr.  Rosengarten, 

I  do  remember  your  wife.  No  one  could  ever  forget  her 
who  had  the  pleasure  of  knowing  her  even  slightly,  for  she 
was  a  rare  type  with  decided  individuality,  unusual  gifts  and 
a  magnetism  which  attracted  every  one.  Yes,  my  Father 
received  quite  a  class  of  young  ladies  into  our  home  after  his 
return  from  St.  Louis  and  greatly  enjoyed  teaching  them  as  he 
was  in  advance  of  his  time  in  believing  that  a  girl  should 
have  just  as  good  an  education  as  a  boy. 

The  Indians  speak  of  the  Unknown  Power  which  controls 
our  Fate  as  "the  Great  Mystery"  and  certainly  we  know 
very    little. 

I  am  sincerely 
your  friend 

Kate  Sanborn 

Miss  Sanborn,  daughter  of  Prof.  Sanborn,  President  of 
Dartmouth  College,  sent  these  lines  when  she  heard  of  the 
death  of  Mrs.  Rosengarten. 

Miss  Sanborn  died  in  July,  191 7. 


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